Why does my horse run away when im leading him from his field?
Lately my horse has been running away when im leading him from his field, i dont know why, he never used to do it. I have tried the bridle on him but even that doesnt work. Im planning on buying a chiffney for him.
I apologize for suggesting that another answer wasn’t thoughtful. I still disagree with the advice. Constant treating to bribe a rude, disobedient horse into behaving doesn’t work, and it creates a more dangerous horse.
Yes, I love to treat my horses, out of my hand and all that – but only because they are already careful and polite and safe to be around.
Yes, you should think about making the horse glad to be with you – but it should be because (No. 1) the horse knows you are a worthy leader, and secondarily because he knows that he gets to do fun, interesting, sometimes tasty things when he’s with you.
A rope halter can give you a slight advantage because the harsh knots on the nose and the narrow poll strap give you more pounds per square inch of pressure. A stud chain is not my favorite thing to use, but it’s way better than letting a horse learn he doesn’t have to obey a human leading him. Use it correctly – put the snap in and down at the left bottom ring of a flat halter, run the chain up and over the nose strap then down and out the right ring. If the chain is long enough, run the chain through and snap onto the upper right ring, near his eye/ear. With a shorter chain, just snap onto the lower right ring. This is not the new way you will have to lead him forever, it’s only a temporary way to keep him from running off every time, until you are able to change his behavior.
Get some help in training him to obey the lead and halter. Wear gloves (I assume he’s pulling the rope out of your hands). Have him in a safe enclosure and work on transitions – walk, whoa, trot, walk, trot, whoa. Teach LOTS of whoa, and make it interesting for him. Set up some obstacles to lead him over, around, and through. Stop him often and make those stops a pleasant time, as long as he’s focused on you. If he frets or pays more attention to ‘the rest of the world’, put him back to work so his mind is fully occupied with YOU. The idea here is that he learns that you are the center of his universe when you’re together, and nothing else is more important than being with you.
As soon as he is responding better in the arena or wherever, take him out with two leads. One is attached directly to the ring under his chin and one has a chain over his nose (if you’re using a flat halter). If you use a rope halter, make sure you’ve learned how to ‘snap’ it to get his attention and that he will not take off again. Try to use the mildest control that will work, and be ready to back it up with IMMEDIATE correction if he doesn’t respond correctly. Go for ‘trail walks’ to see the big world, and always work on keeping his attention on you. Every dog, blowing paper, kid on a bike, baby buggy, or horse-eating monster is just another training opportunity. When he’s calmly obeying you, stop for a nibble of lovely green grass and some massage/grooming (tuck a small rubber currycomb your pocket).
I’ve never used a Chifney bit. I think a stud chain is very effective for this purpose and it won’t affect the horse’s mouth for a riding bit, as a Chifney will do.
Edit:
Wow, if pulling away isn’t a dangerous action, then nothing is. A handler’s hands can get burned, and the horse is then loose where it can run into other people’s horse-handling and cause other horses to misbehave, or into the road, get hit, kill all the passengers, cause an accident trying to avoid it – how long a list do we need of dangers of a horse pulling free? Add to that list, the simple fact that equine ‘cheekiness’ gone unchecked quickly becomes all-out dominant behavior, including rearing, striking, biting, kicking, and all those lovely habits we try to avoid in our equine companions.
I truly don’t wish to malign you or your methods. If what you do works for you, then I am glad for you. The way it came across here, sounded like "If we are nice enough to the pretty horsie s/he will like us and love us and never ever disobey or hurt us." Of course that wasn’t your intention, but that is the way it came across. There are already too many kiddos here with that mindset, and I would hate for a misunderstood answer to reinforce that idea.
I use lots of treats myself. and I have been accused of bribery because of it. Of course, horses don’t understand a bribe. "If you do this, I will give you this." They only understand if the people around them are capable, trustworthy leaders or not.
Having a goodie offered every few steps does not equate with leadership in the horse’s mind, it only means the human is a walking, talking treat dispenser, and the horse is likely to try more rude, disobedient, dangerous behavior to get more of those unearned treats. If you insist on polite behavior from the horse *first*, and give the treats *after* it behaves well, then yes, treats can reach their mind in a positive way.
My horse in Red Dead always runs away and then I shoot it.
Its hard to say why hes running away without seeing the situation.. but I would always recommend only leading him with a halter and leadrope because its less dangerous if he does get away from you.
But, you could always give him a reason to stay with you…
Whenever you go to collect him from the field and he walks calmly beside you, give him a little treat. I used reduced sugar licorice, pieces of apple, carrot or home-made (horse friendly) muslie bars with my horse.
Start by giving him a treat when he comes to you, and the whole way while he walks with you and out the gate. Then progress it to only giving him a treat when he walks 10m beside you calmly. Then make it only when he reaches the gate. He will quickly learn that it is in his interest to stick with you!
*Re Hossgal:
"I’m sorry, but Paws4Thought hasn’t thought out her advice very well. Constant treating to bribe a rude, disobedient horse into behaving doesn’t work, and it creates a more dangerous horse. "
I am offering positive reinforcement training advice. Yes its a bribe, but all training is a bribe. You are offering a bribe too, but just in a different form. Using restrains on horses is how we have trained them for years, and it is effective, but uses the principles of negative reinforcement rather than positive. Negative reinforcement creates a situation where the animal is made uncomfortable in some way (not painful, just not comfortable) and their action, if correct, will result on that discomfort being removed. So the "go" leg aid is a great example of this in practice.
I use positive reinforcement in groundwork and handling of horses because I have found that they make the connections in the training session quicker – they understand the link between the command and the behaviour faster.
If the horse was being dangerous in its actions, then my advice would be to make more use of negative reinforcement training, but I dont see how running away is that threatening to the owner… I see it more as cheeky and perhaps a little disrespectful!
I do think you have made a good set of training suggestions though, but would appreciate it if you would consider that mine are effective training methods too.
I just can’b believe how many folks will go out and buy some glorified halter or bit to control an unrully horse when you can very easily jimmyrig something that will work as well with just a little cleverness.
Get some very heavy strong tiny stiff rope and make a noseband that is just a little larger arouind then his jaw is about 3 inches above his notstrils and fasten it very securily below his halter noseband, on each side and on the back and fasten your shank to the back of it.. take a crop out with you. This will work if you are not a tiny, weak wossy quitter.
When he first starts to get rushy with you, Jerk him around as hard as you can,, bring his head toward you and use that crop on his hinder and make him keep spinning in tight circles, keep it up till you are both pooped. Say Whoa! let him stop, reward him, make him stand. If he moves go at it again, and again if necessary, Let him know that if he takes off you will make him spin..
My horse use to bolt when i brought him out or put him away. He had even ran over a few people.
I started using a stud chain. I put it over his nose. And every time he would bolt or jump around, i would give a quick tug on the chain as a punishment. And when he behaved i would loosen the chain, or take it off. Eventually my horse got the idea that bolting through the gate was bad, and he stopped.
Your horse has decided to test your limits and he has succeeded. He will continue this behavior until you correct him. He is either naturally rebellious or associating you with pain. Check EVERYTHING that comes into contact with him -. his bridle and the bit, his saddle, and all the accessories. When you tie him up, is he comfortable? How long since his teeth were floated? Feel his back all over with your hand and watch if he shows the whites of his eyes because that indicates pain, Check his legs and feet. If you’re sure there’s nothing causing him discomfort, then you are dealing with a mental problem. The best way to cure a mental problem is to set up a daily routine. That way, your horse will get used to the routine and figure out when you lead him away from his pasture, he will work for awhile, and then he will be returned to his pasture again. Choose a time to work with your horse every day, and try to be within two hours of that time. You will have to work with him every day for a week to cure his problem.
Get a flat, smooth, stud chain. Feed it through the bottom ring on the halter, then feed it through the side ring, wrap it once over the noseband, feed it through the ring on the other side, wrap it round the strap between the side ring and the bottom ring, then clip it to the bottom ring. You are not clipping it straight across the nose and out the side like a breeding stallion. What you are doing is making the chain going directly from the lead line to the side ring, but the chain is wrapped the rest of the way because this makes it more safe for you and your horse, while still providing an appropriate amount of discipline. NEVER put a stud chain on an unruly horse without wrapping it. Direct chains are severe and belong in the hands of an experienced trainer. Just the feel of the chain on a horse’s face will make him think. Do not take a riding crop. Instead, get a regular 4 foot whip – the kind people use when they show halter horses. The reason you want this longer whip is because when you lead a horse, you are standing by his shoulder or slightly forward. A riding crop is not going to reach his hindquarters when you are in this position. When you lead your horse, don’t give him his head. In other words, you keep your hand on the lead line about 6 inches under his chin. Most horses won’t try to run if led in this position. Hold your hand firmly, so he knows you mean business. However, if he does suddenly turn or try to raise his head, give him a gentle tug. Don’t yank real hard on his face. It’s not necessary. Most likely, he will stop his bad behavior or back up a little. Release the pressure on the chain, move your hand to about 6 inches under his chin, and start walking again. If he refuses to budge, give him a gentle tap on his hindquarters with the whip.
Now, when you get him into the barn, put him in the cross ties and remove the lead line. You can leave the chain on his halter, just don’t clip the cross ties to the chain. Give him a real good pet on the neck and offer him a treat that is wet, such as a carrot dipped in water or a slice of apple. This is reinforcing his good behavior and it also moistens his mouth, which is good if you are going to bridle him soon. It is also telling him that you like him, what he is going to do next is MORE fun than being in his pasture, and it sets his mood in the right frame of mind. Giving a problem horse a two-fold reward – a nice pet on the neck and something tasty -.is never spoiling a horse. After a few days, a simple pet on the neck will do and you can stop giving him a treat. But when you pet him on the neck, do it like you mean it. Rub your hand slow and with a little pressure against his neck and tell him "Good boy!" Touching a horse is important because that is how horses communicate their affection to each other. It will mean a lot to him if you are sincere.
Now, if you still have a problem, then re-training is in order. You will need a small paddock and that is where naughty boy goes. No more pasture. You repeat the above procedure twice a day for two weeks until he learns to walk from the paddock into the barn. If you have a paddock that is fenced all the way up to the barn, that is best because if naughty boy runs away, now you can force him to run. That’s right. You clap your hands and make him go round and round in the paddock. If he’s lazy and stands in the corner, get a longe whip and give him a little work-out. All this time, he is dragging the leadline and that leadline is clipped to a chain. This is the other reason for wrapping it around the halter instead of feeding through the rings directly. If he steps on that leadline, he will be punishing himself, but he won’t hurt himself. Make him trot and canter until he just begins to break a sweat – usually 5 or 10 minutes. When you allow him to stop, walk him to the far end of the paddock and lead him into the barn.
Your horse should be fine within a few days – a week at the most. The second week, if he is perfect everytime, then he is ready to be trusted to be behave when he is free in his nice big pasture.