Posts Tagged ‘withers’

According to Chinese Medicine, there is no ailment that cannot be cured.

I believe that aphorism to be true, whether applied to humans or horses. At least, when it comes to horse health care, I believe that any condition can be improved, made healthier, and made more harmonious.

Fezzywig: A Bodywork Example of Horse Health Care

A prime example of this is my new Holsteiner warm blood gelding Fezzywig. He came to me with a severely roached back, meaning he has a hump in his back where several vertebrae stick up and out of his spine in his lumbar region. His roach back had been getting worse over time, and his former owner did not know how to help him. Hence, he came to me.

Fezzywig has been with us for a while now, and he receives bodywork every single day. I do “Bowen” type bodywork as well as passive stretches, acupressure, and network chiropractic on him. The improvement in less than 3 weeks is noticeable to me, even if not to the casual observer.

While he definitely still has a hump in his back, to me his whole body structure looks more relaxed. In addition, his top and bottom lines look more harmonious. He looked “pot bellied” and seriously hunched over in his earlier pictures. Now he has more tone to his belly and his withers have risen up so they are closer in height to his rear.

What’s the Point? Horse Health Care and Hope

The point of this article isn’t to talk about specific bodywork conditions, but to point out that there is always hope for every horse ailment out there, be it ulcers, roached backs, or lameness issues. Maybe not every horse can be made perfect, but the quality of every horse’s life can be improved.

More importantly, I believe that horse owners can be totally active participants in the horse health care process. Nine years ago I learned some basic bodywork techniques, which I have used every week since and continue to refine. Nine years ago I also learned to trim my own horse’s feet. I couldn’t quite figure out how to learn to do horse dental work (that’s beyond my capabilities), but I do just about everything else.

When it comes to horse health care, there’s always hope. My list of horses kind of looks like a cast of characters from a freak show:

Valentine: mustang mare who had a golf-ball sized tumor under her jaw and choked frequently
Reyacita: mustang mare with COPD, or heaves, when stressed and eating hay
Walker: quarter horse gelding with poor feet and ulcers
Samantha: mustang mare with an overly long back and a pulled groin muscle
Fezzywig: warmblood gelding with a roached back

Frightening isn’t it? And yet, with the help of daily doses of my homemade “horse goo,” regular bodywork, occasional help from a local vet, and a lot of help from Holistic Horsekeeping, these horses have achieved the incredible:

Valentine: Jumper Champion and Jumper Horse of the Year
Reyacita: eats hay, team sorts, and learning to be a rope horse
Walker: recovered from ulcers with probiotics, algae, and enzymes, beginner rope horse, gentle enough for an infant to ride
Samantha: Hunter Champion
Fezzywig: vast improvement in his roached back

Your Participation in Horse Health Care

Obviously, each horse lover is going to be different when it comes to how much “hands on” work they do for horse health care, and how much work is done by professional veterinarians, farriers, equine dentists, and bodyworkers. However, the more active a role you take in learning about horse health care, the better your horse’s health will be, regardlesss of whether you do “hands on” work on not.

In this day and age, when money is tight and horse health care is expensive, I encourage every horse lover out there to learn to do as much “hands on” health care as possible. It’s ultimately less expensive, empowers you to help your horses immediately, and helps you make better decision about your horse’s management. A good place to start, with many free resources as well as ebooks and products, is the Holistic Horsekeeping website. Enjoy!

Stephanie Yeh is a zen cowgirl obsessed about horses, healing, natural remedies, herbs, magic, MLM, and more. Check out natural horse care tips, ways to fund your horse obsession, natural health products, and more on her blog ( http://zencowgirl.blogspot.com ). Get her free ebook for wacky horses and humans, and order XanGo mangosteen products on her website ( http://www.mangosteengood.com ).

Author: Stephanie H. Yeh
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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An equestrian horse can be a wonderful friend but purchasing your first horse can be demanding of your patience. Go slow and follow some of the rules below and your chances of making a good purchase will be better.

Here are some general rules to follow. Talk with the seller and find out how old the horse is. Horses best years are between the ages of five to ten. If you are new to riding, a more mature horse is a better choice.

Make an early decision as to whether you want a registered horse or whether an unregistered horse would be acceptable. This is a personal decision that is made primarily on budget considerations.

The size of the horse is important so inquire about his weight and height. A horse’s height is measured in “hands” where a hand is four inches. A good size for a pleasure riding horse is about 15 hands. Measure from the ground up to the withers of the neck along the front leg. Weight is not quite so critical. Some types of horses can simply be heavier by nature.

Ask how many people have owned the horse. Find out the reason for the sale. A horse with a bad personality or attitude problems is likely to be resold often. Do a little probing to determine if this is the case. Point out to the seller that you will require a vet exam before buying. This may uncover some problems the seller is not telling you about.

Determine if the horse has had any training and what the qualifications of the trainer were. Find out what the horse’s history has been as far as his use. Are you looking for a horse for competition jumping or everyday riding? You will find that you will spend less on a young, untrained horse because of the time you will have to spend with your new animal. This could be a good choice if your budget is tight and you have the background and time to spend with training. If you are a beginner and just getting to know horses you really should spend more money and get a well-trained horse. An older horse can be a wise purchase since they are generally less expensive but will most likely have been trained.

Here are some things you can do wrong when buying an equestrian horse. Don’t turn down and older horse just because he is older. They are typically more gentle and great for the new rider. You can ride a good horse until he is well into his twenties.

Never try to buy a young green horse for a young person. Your child should start with a more mature horse that is easier to ride.

Avoid auction horses. Horses sold at auction are more likely to have been sick or have been hard to ride. It is harder to research your purchase at an auction.

The horse’s coat pattern and color should not be the primary factor in determining which horse to buy. Fall back on the above rules first in picking a horse.

For more advice on horses please visit our website at: http://www.petinfoonline.com

Author: Reba J.
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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A lot of dressage riders aren’t clear on the difference between flexion at the jaw and flexion at the poll, and how to ask their horses for each of these positions.

Keep in mind that a dressage horse can flex three ways-to the left, to the right, and “in”.

When a horse flexes to the left or right, he’s flexing at the poll. When he does this, you’ll just see his inside or outside eye or nostril. I call this position +1 or -1 because you’re bringing his head 1 inch to the inside or the outside of where his head would be positioned if his chin was directly in front of the crease in the middle of his chest.

You’ll ask for flexion at the poll to the left or right with an indirect rein aid. To give an indirect rein aid, give a quick turn of the wrist so your thumb points to the center of the circle, your fingernails point up toward your face, and your baby finger points up toward your opposite shoulder. As you turn your wrist this way, bring your hand very close to the withers, but don’t cross over them. As soon as you’ve turned your wrist, return to the “starting position”where your thumb is the highest point of the hand. Be sure you support with your outside rein as you do this so you “catch” his poll rather than bend his entire neck.

When a horse flexes “in”, he flexes at the jaw, and he closes the angle at his throatlatch. You’ll use a completely different rein action to ask your horse to flex “in” than the action you used to ask for flexion to the left or right.

Ask your horse to flex “in” by moving the bit in his mouth. Be sure you only use ONE rein to move the bit. If you alternately saw on his mouth with your left and right hands, he’ll just bring his face closer to his chest.

We often flex the horse’s jaw. In fact, his jaw must be flexed for him to be completely on the bit. BUT, the danger lies in flexing the jaw BEFORE you connect him over his back. If you flex his jaw first, he’s not really connected. His face is just “in”. The danger here is that you can fake yourself out.

You might think he’s correctly on the bit because he feels soft in your hand when his jaw is flexed. But if you go to do something like a transition, you’ll find out that he’s really not connected at all.

During the transition, your dressage horse will raise his head and neck and look hollow because all you have control over is a flexed jaw. He wasn’t honestly on the bit to begin with! You need to ride your horse from back to front. Close your legs and send your horse forward through your outside hand to get his back round. And ONLY after you’ve sent him forward through your outside hand should you flex his jaw as the final ingredient of putting him on the bit.

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques? Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence? Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach?

Learn how by going to: http://www.janesavoie.com or http://www.dressagementor.com

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Keeping your horse’s mane looking its best isn’t something to leave until the day before a show. Clipping and trimming a little each week will result in a better finish, a healthier mane, and a happier horse. And of course, for some working horses, clipping the mane is essential for comfort and safety.

Where do you start?

First you need to decide on the best look for your horse. Some breeds, like Arabians and saddle seat horses, have breed requirements for showing that will tell you if you need a short mane, or a more natural look, and how long you need to clip the bridle path. Polo ponies and cow horses often have ‘roached’ or ‘hogged’ manes. That means the entire mane is clipped away, except for a tuft at the withers and the forelock – this keeps the reins and ropes from getting tangled up. If you show hunters or dressage, you’ll want to trim the mane with braiding in mind. All of these factors will help you determine how you want your finished mane to look, and horse clipper is best for you.

Let’s start with the bridle path. For most horses, this will be a short clipped section just behind the ears, about two inches long. This keeps the mane from getting caught up in the headstall, and makes the horse more comfortable. Some breeds will have longer bridle paths, up to 12″, depending on your horse’s conformation and your personal preference. The best way to start is to clip the bridle path back a half inch or so at a time, leave it a few days and see how you like it before clipping any further. It’s a lot easier to clip a little more each time than to go too far and try to grow it back out!

If your horse has a thick neck, or is a working horse where the mane can get in the way, you can consider roaching or hogging the whole mane. The first time you do this, you might want to use more robust body clippers, but for regular maintenance – again you should do this weekly – opt for the small hand clippers. Keeping the hogged mane short and neat will make it easier to keep clean, and it doesn’t have to grow out much to look pretty unsightly! Leave a tuft of mane at the withers to protect them from saddle pads, and leave the forelock – it isn’t just for looks, it helps to protect the horse’s eyes and ears.

Why trim the bridle path every week? First of all, it makes keeping the area clean a lot easier. The horse’s poll is sensitive, and under the headstall can get dirty and sweaty. A closely trimmed bridle path is easy to keep brushed clean, and prevent any sores or scurf building up. Also, if you let the bridle path grow out to even a half inch or more, the hairs will fold over under the bridle path, causing pressure on the poll, and an uncomfortable horse won’t be easy to bridle, and won’t perform its best. This is why your hand clippers are going to be an important tool in your horse grooming supplies!

Why buy hand clippers?

The best finish always comes with small hand clippers or trimmers, and a set of these will be a great addition to your horse grooming supplies. Scissors never get the same results, and if your horse moves around, you can easily make a mistake, or even injure yourself or your horse. You’ll want to choose clippers that are easy to use, so you keep the bridle path neat and tidy with weekly clipping. Your hand clippers aren’t just for the mane – you can use them to keep up with regular clipping and trimming, such as around your horse’s face and hooves. In an emergency, hand clippers can be a real asset to clean up wounds or help bandages stick. A good quality set of battery powered or rechargeable hand clippers will be one of your most useful equine grooming supplies!

Which clippers should I choose?

Choose clippers from a reliable manufacturer. This way, you will get a good warranty, and replacement blades will be easy to find. Plus, you can be sure that by sticking with the best suppliers, like Wahl, Andis, and Oster that your clippers will be safe – and that’s important anytime you use electrical products around horses.

Which one you choose depends on a number of factors. You’ll want a cordless one if your horse is jumpy or you want to take the clippers with you to shows. If you roach your horse’s mane, or you have a very woolly horse, a more robust model is best. If your budget is tight, or you have several sets of horse grooming supplies, you might want to look for the best value. Here’s a quick selection of good mane clippers from the main manufacturers:

Wahl horse clippers. The Wahl Mini Arco is a great choice for routine trimming. It’s quiet, and stays cool, and blade changing is quick and easy. It runs cordless, but for quiet horses or longer jobs, you can run it with the cord attached.

Oster horse clippers. The Oster Mini Max trimmer isn’t rechargeable, but it’s comfortable, easy to use, and very economical. The low price means you can keep one in your horse grooming supplies, one in your first aid kit, and one in your truck.

Andis horse clippers. The Andis Power Trim is a good choice if you have a lot of trimming to do. It’s rechargeable, but the batteries last well and it’s quiet so it’s good for nervous horses. Best of all, it has an ergonomically designed grip, so you’re hand won’t get tired.

Simply put, a correctly thinned mane, and a regularly clipped and trimmed bridle path don’t just look good, they are easier to keep clean and healthy. Keep a set of good quality hand clippers in your horse grooming supplies, and you will have a happy, healthy, good looking horse every day!

This is the first in a series of five articles on horse grooming. This article is an easy to read, well written guide to grooming your horse’s mane. Not only does it provide specific guidance, but also makes recommendations on the best horse grooming supplies to use to get the job done right.

Author: Marcus Koll
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Learning to ride a horse isn’t easy. There are so many things that you need to remember and they aren’t always related to the horse. Always ensure that you have the correct clothing and a helmet that fits properly before you start. Then you are ready to continue with the rest.

How to correctly mount a horse

When the bridle and saddle have been correctly fitted and double-checked, stand to the left of the horse. Place your left foot in the stirrup, and grasp the withers (mane), not the saddle as this will cause it to slide. Then keeping both of your hands on the front of the horse or on the cantle (back) of the saddle, push up and swing your right leg over the back of the horse, being careful not to kick the horse, so that you seat yourself comfortably in the saddle. When comfortable, reassess your grip on the reigns and hang both your legs down near the stirrups. Make sure they are at the correct length by having the stirrup reach your ankle. Then you should be able to just slide your feet into the stirrup whilst your foot is raised a few inches. Remember that it important that you are balanced to the horse, not them to you.

Now you are sitting comfortably… Keep your upper back straight and lower back relaxed. Sit tall in the saddle. Always look ahead so that you can see for anything that might spook your horse. Take one rein in each hand; left rein in the left hand, right rein in the right hand. Tuck the reins under all four fingers, with the reins going in under the little fingers. Always hold the reins in place with your thumbs against your forefingers with your thumbs up, palms down and each hand as wide apart as the neck of the horse with them just in front of the saddle and above of the horse. To let more rein in, slide it through by lifting your thumbs. Shorten them by using the opposite hand to take up extra length.

Starting to ride your horse

To start the horse off with a slow walk – the first gait – squeeze your lower legs. After a few minutes stop and check the girth. If you can feel more than one hand under and between the girth and the horse, then you must tighten it. Carry on walking, keeping your heels down, back straight and chin up. You should be able to draw a straight line from the heel to the shoulders. Pull slightly on the reigns so as to turn the horses head enabling you to turn. When you need to stop, simply pull back on the reins and sit deep into the saddle; sometimes you may need to lean back, then relax the reigns and praise your horse. Always release the reins when you stop as this will praise and reward your horse; also they might pull if you don’t. Horses can jerk short reins out of your hands, so try to make them long. Practice these basic moves until you and the horse are comfortable with it all.

When you are both ready, try trotting – the second gait. Again, squeeze the horse with your legs and the horse will start to move faster. With a trot, you need to learn how to rise and sit with the trot of the horse. You will need to rise and sit with the movement of the horse without bumping. This takes a bit of getting used to, and you will be using muscles which you may not be used to using! Thinking “lift, sit, lift, sit” in time to the rhythm will help you with this. Try not to sit too heavily as you may unsteady the horse. When you wish to slow down, sit deep in the saddle and pull back slightly on the reins. Again practice this until you are comfortable with the movements. When you are happy, trying turning and stopping from a trot.

Cantering is the next step – the third gait. This is often only managed after weeks of trotting. To ask for canter, squeeze your outside leg while having it back a bit and then squeeze with your inside leg. It’s sometimes best to sit trot and then ask, so you are sitting ready for the canter. This means that you should sitting back slightly; when you feel you’re sitting back, you’re about right. Whilst in a canter, you should be rocking forward backward, with your bottom slightly off the saddle. Again, keep on practicing this as this will take longer to grasp. Ensure you are wary of your posture and heels as you practice; back on your heels and rocked forward but straight with your body.

After mastering the canter, you can move on to a gallop – this is the fastest gait. Again squeeze your calves as you have before, but you must be in a canter. As with the canter you should be sitting slightly forward in the saddle, with bottom off the saddle. It is always advisable to ensure that you are fully confident and well-practiced with each gait before you move on to the faster gait.

When dismounting your horse, swing your right leg over to the back of the horse. Stay balanced with a good grip on the saddle so you don’t slip. Then lower yourself down from the left side, you should try to put both your legs down at the same time, keeping your knees slightly bent to absorb the weight.

Other helpful horse hints

Get to know your horse. Always ensure that you approach him carefully from the front or side; touching him and talking to him, thus avoiding spooking him and being hurt by a kick. Then move towards his shoulder, so he knows you’re coming closer.

If you are new to a horse, or riding, always make sure that you have had proper rider training before you attempt anything on your own. Try to avoid riding alone; never ride alone if you are a beginner.

Even though it will be a shock and could very possibly hurt when you fall off, try to get straight back on.

Never kneel or sit by a horse; if you are tending to them, always make sure that you are positioned so that you can jump aside quickly if need be.

Make sure that you are comfortable on the horse that you are riding; they will be nervous too if they sense that you are uneasy.

Never yank the bit, as this will hurt the horse and distress him. If you handle it carefully, he will be more relaxed and easier to ride.

For more tips and advice on caring for horses, horse riding and a brand new equine blog, visit the AFI Horse Community website just launched by AFI Horse Insurance – the UK’s only not-for-profit pet and equine insurance provider.

Animal Friends Pet Insurance is the UK’s only not-for-profit ethical pet insurance company. AFI has been trading since 1999 and since then has helped thousands of needy animals all over the world by donating 100% of their net profits to worthy causes. Buy pet insurance online from Animal Friends or simply call our friendly staff if you prefer on 0844 55 70 300; the policies won’t cost you more and you won’t be disappointed!

Author: Stephanie Andrew
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horse groundwork training is a vital part of getting your horse ready to ride. You should begin with three goals in mind. First, you want to become a leader for your horse. Horses naturally look to a leader as they are herd animals in the wild. For safety reasons, you want to assume that leadership role. Otherwise your horse is going to be making the decisions, like when to run away when he hears something scary on the trail. He’s also more likely to exhibit bad horse behavior if you haven’t established leadership. With leadership comes respect from the horse, and a horse that doesn’t respect you is more likely to rear, buck, and bite among other problems.

There are three simple horse groundwork training exercises you can do to establish leadership. The first that should be done is round pen work ala Monty Roberts “join up”. Take your horse to a round pen and take the lead rope off. Then send him out to your left at a canter. Have him go around about five times and then ask him to change direction and go around to the right. As he is going around apply pressure-swing your rope at the hip and maintain eye contact at the withers. At this point, start looking for signs of acceptance from the horse. This will be communicated to you with four basic gestures. An ear on you indicates respect-the horse is paying attention to what you have to say. Next comes licking of the lips or chewing. This is a sign of relaxation, which really means that the horse is not feeling any fear-or more to the point he trusts you. When you see these signs, take some of the pressure off-stop swinging your rope and back off a little bit. The horse may indicate increased trust by dropping his speed down and circling at smaller distances. The final sign to look for is the horse dropping his head. When a horse drops his head, this is a submissive act that says “you’re my leader” and “please let me join the herd”. When he does this, take eye contact off the horse, walk backwards away from him in a spiral pattern, and exhale. This will bring the horse to a stop. Now you can approach the horse and get him to hook on (follow you without a lead rope).

The second horse groundwork training activity to include in your routine is simple leading. Put a lead rope on your horse and just walk around. Look for signs of disrespect: crowding, edging past you as you walk, and taking two or three more steps when you’ve come to a stop. If your horse indicates one or more of these signs, spend a few minutes each day walking backwards away from your horse. This way you can only be in front of the horse as he’s being led, and he will see you as a leader in his mind. Occasionally ask for stops by stopping, raising both hands with palms out and exhaling. While you’re doing this, make sure the horse has both eyes on you. If they are not you he is not paying attention (disrespect), so bump the rope to bring his nose on you.

Once leadership, trust, and respect have been established, its time to turn your horse groundwork training toward preparing a horse to be ridden. The goal now is to set up a set of cues that will be given to control and direct the motion of the horse, and teach him these cues on the ground. The cues given use a pressure and release reward system. Pressure is the cue to move, release of the pressure is a reward to the horse that reinforces the desired response. The main areas we want to work with are: moving forward and backing up, moving the forehand over, moving the hindquarter over, and disengaging the hindquarter.

Let’s start with moving the forehand. To move the forehand, apply pressure between the jaw and withers in the neck area. When the horse takes a step away from you, release. Do the exercise on both sides. Then repeat with the hip area. Disengaging the hip is a process of applying pressure to the hip and having the horse circle his hip around while keeping his front legs in the same location. His hind legs should cross over one another. This is called “disengaging” because we are taking away the forward impulsion of the horse-when his hind legs are crossing he does not have the balance necessary to move forward.

Backing up applies pressure alternatively to the opposite sides of the face. Shaking the lead rope will do this, or you can apply pressure with your hands (in the air just by the nose). To ask the horse to move forward, you can do a driving exercise. Stand at the midsection to the left of the horse and put your riding or carrot stick over his back. Point forward with your left hand and tap the back of the horse with your tool. The tapping is “pressure” asking the horse to move forward. When he starts moving, you can release the pressure.

The final groundwork exercise you can use to prepare for riding is lunging. The focus of lunging used in this way is not to wear down the horse, but rather to build communication. To do this you will start the horse moving at a walk and ask him to stop periodically. When he is doing that well in both directions, then begin to include trotting. At first, have him start at a walk then ask for trotting, then work on having him drop down from a trot to a walk. Then stop again. Mix it up so your horse is never sure what you’re going to ask (keep him paying attention). When he is doing this well, begin including cantering in the exercise.

David McMahon is a freelance author. He invites you to visit http://horse-training-tips.com where you can learn more about horse groundwork training.

Author: David McMahon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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I often hear riders at the basic levels say that their dressage horses are collected. I assume they’re confused and are actually talking about connection as opposed to collection.

But since I run across this confusion a lot, I want to take some time to explain how to evaluate whether or not a horse is collected.

Many people think that when a horse is collected, he just takes shorter, slower steps. But you can shorten a horse’s strides without actually collecting him.

Think about three things in terms of collecting any gait.

1. The steps are shortened, but the rhythm and tempo stay the same as they were when the steps were longer.

2. The center of gravity must shift back toward the hind legs. That is, there is a loading of the hind legs. In nature, a horse has approximately 60% of his weight on his front legs and 40% on his hind legs. As you collect the horse, you gradually shift that center of gravity back to the hind legs. As a result, the horse begins to take more weight on the hind legs so his forehead can be lighter and freer.

3. When a horse is collected he bends the joints of his hind legs. As a result, his croup lowers and his forehand elevates. Look at the top of his withers and compare it to the top of his croup. In this balance, he’ll have the silhouette or outline of an airplane taking off, or a seesaw where one end is pushed down and the other end goes up.

It’s very important you don’t get fooled into thinking that a horse with a high head and neck carriage is necessarily collected. That’s because if the horse is “hand-ridden”, the rider can lift his head and neck up. But if the rider does this, the withers will stay low. And if the withers are low and the croup is high, there is no collection.

So when you evaluate whether or not a dressage horse is truly collected think about those three things–a shortening of the frame, a loading of the hind legs, and the relative height of the top of the withers to the top of the croup.

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques?
Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence?v Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach?
Learn how by going to: http://www.janesavoie.com/ or http://www.dressagementor.com

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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When riding your dressage horse, it’s important to keep your hands in what I call the “work area”.

The “work area” is just in front of the saddle above the horse’s withers. Put your hands in that position and draw an imaginary box around them. That box is your work area.

No matter what rein aids you’re giving, keep your hands in the work area. If you bring your hands closer to your body, you steal power from the hind legs. If you put your outside hand forward, for example, you lose control of the outside shoulder.

If you raise or lower your hands, you break the straight line from the bit through your hand to your elbow. When you break that straight line, and there’s an angle where the rein meets your hand, the action of the rein stops there. That is, the action of the rein can’t travel through your arm and down your back so it can affect your horse’s back. It also can’t travel through the horse’s body and affect the hind leg on the same side.

Generally, many dressage riders tend to pull back by drawing their hands toward their bodies and behind their horse’s withers. If you tend to do that, here’s a simple tip to remind you to keep your hands FORWARD in the work area. Imagine there’s a basketball in front of your stomach. Keep your hands in front of the basketball. No matter how hard you try, you can’t draw your hands closer to your body because the basketball is in the way!

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques?
Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence?
Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach?
Learn how by going to: http://www.janesavoie.com/ or http://www.dressagementor.com

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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