Posts Tagged ‘western saddle’

Understanding the saddle?

The structure that you put on an animal’s back to support the rider or other types of load is called a saddle. When one speaks of saddles, it is commonly associated with horses. But any kind of animal that could be ridden on its back has its own corresponding type of saddle. Horse saddles are a crucial piece of equipment for anyone serious about horse training.

There are two main types of saddles – the English saddle and Western saddle. These are the two types of saddle primarily used in the equestrian world, although there are many types of horse saddles used worldwide. In other nations, saddles of different designs exist. Saddles differ greatly among various ethnic groups and nationalities. It can be fun to learn about how each one is utilized.

Ordinarily, choosing what saddle to use should depend on the kind of riding you intend to do with your horse. Even narrowing it down to English or Western riding, saddles can still be broken up in many categories such as for dressage and show, endurance, pleasure or general purpose. Some common horse saddle terms you should familiarize yourself with are pommel, cantle, horn and cinch.

The English Horse Saddle

In Olympic equestrian events, the English saddle is the main type of saddle used. As the name suggests, this is the favored type among the majority of English riders. However, the English saddle can still be categorized into several more specific styles depending on the kind of event that is involved. Whether it is for show jumping, hunter jumper, eventing, dressage, horse racing, saddle seat, or polo, an appropriate type of saddle is consequently used.

The Western Horse Saddle

The Stock saddle or Western saddle is the most commonly used variety in the United States. This is the type of saddle you will see used by cowboys on cattle ranches. Today, it is used in a variety of western riding activities. Distinctively, western saddles don’t have as much padding underneath and must be used with saddle blankets or pads so that they can be comfortable for the horse. They do provide much more support for the rider.

Western saddles have stirrups that are sturdier and can utilize numerous cinches depending on what they are being used for. The horn present on the front is one major factor that distinguishes this type of saddle from its English counterpart. The horn is originally used to tie a lariat when roping cattle.

Finding the Right Size

The tree of the saddle, is the frame on which the saddle is constructed. It is usually made of wood or sometimes fiberglass and then covered with leather. The frame is made to fit both the rider and the horse.

Finding the saddle that fits may require more work than you may think. An ill-fitting saddle can cause injuries to both the horse and rider. Bruising and sores may result on your horse’s back muscles if you do not choose a saddle that fits properly. It is important to have a trial period before actually buying your saddle. Think of it as a piece of sports equipment for a human, it varies greatly from each individual horse. Be sure to always keep your tack clean and well oiled to prevent breakage or unnecessary discomfort to your horse.

Tips for an English Saddle

-Without a pad, put the saddle on the horse and tighten the girth
-Have a person sit in the saddle. Their feet should be in the stirrups
-Slide your fingers underneath the pommel. Make sure that you can comfortably get three fingers in between the arch below the pommel and the horse’s withers.
-The saddle should not get in the way of the horse’s shoulder movement by having someone lift the horse’s foreleg and pull it to the front. While doing this, your fingers should be between the top of the horse’s shoulder blade and the pommel. This must be done on both sides.
-Standing behind the horse and looking under the saddle, some light should be seen when the horse’s head is down.
-Make sure the saddle isn’t too long. It shouldn’t reach back onto the horse’s loins

Tips for a Western Saddle

-At least an inch thick of pad should be underneath the saddle
-The stock saddle should be placed on the horse’s back and the cinch tightened so a set of fingers can be placed comfortably between the girth and the animal.
-With someone on the saddle, make sure you can fit three fingers between the arch of the pommel and the horse’s withers
-Make sure that the width of the saddle tree is fitting for the horse. Put three fingers with a flat hand sideways between the saddle and the top of the horse’s withers. If the fit is loose, the tree is too narrow, if it is too tight and you have to squeeze in your fingers, then the tree is too wide

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Author: Annabelle Cabella
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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I may be buying a saddle off of the internet, but obviously I want to make sure it fits Socks, so how do you measure a horse for a saddle? It’s a western saddle if that makes a difference. Thanks!

I won’t pretend for a minute to be a saddler but I do know what I like. Being tall I know from experience how difficult it can be to get a good saddle that fits. Here are some pointers about the types of saddles that are available and features of saddles that could make the difference between a comfortable ride and one that puts your safety at risk.

Types of Saddle

Broadly speaking (in the west) there are two types of saddle – the ‘English’ Saddle and ‘Stock’ Saddle, better known as the ‘Western’ saddle.

English saddles are used for different ‘types’ of horse riding all over the world, not just in the UK. There are many styles of saddle with different features for the different types of riding activities such as eventing, dressage, show jumping, hunting, racing, polo and everyday hacking. For example, dressage saddles are designed in such a way to offer excellent support for the rider’s sitting position.

Western Saddles were originally designed for use on horses in cattle ranches – they differ in looks from the padded English saddles which tend to be more flat, by having a very distinctive horn on the front of the saddle which was originally used for roping cattle. The western saddle doesn’t have any padding and is used in conjunction with a saddle blanket.

So the type of activity a rider engages in will determine the saddle(s) they need. Most importantly a correctly fitted saddle for horse and rider is essential to ensure comfort and optimum performance. General purpose saddles are available to cover most riding activities except racing but if you intend specialising or competing at a high level it would be advisable to get a specialised saddle accordingly.

Picking the right saddle

The length of the seat and the rider’s leg position will make the difference between a saddle being comfortable or not and it will affect balance and ultimately safety when riding. There are some saddle features to consider and some of these are detailed below but generally speaking the only way to ensure proper fit and comfort is to sit on it and if possible take a ride using it before you buy!

If you have long legs it is going to be more difficult to find saddles that fit you. Firstly, if you’ve a long hip to knee leg length then you will end up having to have a very ‘forward cut’ saddle to accommodate your leg, with short stirrups. The most forward cut saddles are cross-country saddles or event saddles. The degree by which a saddle is forward cut can vary tremendously so again try before you buy.

Saddle Features

The next consideration is down to personal preference – what size and shape blocks and thigh supports are best for you and your chosen discipline. The block is the padding that falls behind the rider’s lower leg, which helps to keep it in place and stabilise the rider and knee. Thigh rolls are the padding on an English saddle that is right under the knee and in front of the thigh that again helps to give the rider more support.

One good feature of quite a few synthetic saddles is that you can adjust the position of the blocks because they are attached by velcro. However, with these adjustable blocks you need to have a second flap rather than single flap over the top to cover the Velcro. It is worth bearing this in mind – you may want to determine whether you want a single or double flap first (see later in this article) before you make your mind up about adjustable blocks.

Most single flap saddles come with thigh rolls. The idea of these is not so they trap your thigh; they shouldn’t rest against your thigh when you sit in the saddle. They are only supposed to come into action if you shift forward against them or if you lean against them when galloping. Thigh rolls do come in varying sizes; smaller ones can be seen on the Momentum saddles or larger ones on saddles from Antares or Devecoux – these tend to be custom-made – at a price.

Many saddles have integrated calf blocks. These are positioned on the back of the flap i.e. behind the calf. Personally I find that if these are under the flap of a double flap saddle the shape is often too softly undulating and the block actually pushes your calf away from the saddle instead of ‘blocking’ it in. As a contrast calf blocks on a single flap saddle very much act as a barrier and you know when your leg hits them.

Now for the single verses double flap debate… having ridden in both types of saddle I prefer single flap saddles although they tend to be more expensive. My reasoning for this is that the blocks on a single flap saddle are on the outside so they are far more defined and therefore give more feel. The reality is that the degree of ‘feel’ through a single flap is greater as you are actually sitting closer to the horse. However, some people prefer double flap saddles for breaking in youngsters for example because with a double flap young horses feel less movement from the rider and are less likely to panic.

Now for something riders often don’t appreciate about close contact saddles. It is important to understand that close contact saddles use foam instead of flocking in the panels so they cannot be adjusted by re-flocking or topping up the flocking as one would normally do from time to time. It is necessary to make adjustments to fit using saddle pads instead, which come in many different types and sizes. The set up at the pommel is also slightly different so that you sit closer to the horse. It makes a difference to your ride so if you get the chance, sit in a non-close contact saddle; then sit in a close contact one so you can assess the difference yourself.

A misconception is that all single flap saddles are close contact and double flap saddles aren’t. This isn’t actually true – you can get single flap saddles that aren’t close contact and double flap saddles that are close contact however they are quite rare… worth a hunt if you feel strongly about it though.

Conclusion

So, to sum up – a saddle fit for the purpose and fitted well with the size and shape features you want will make a significant difference to your (horse and rider) comfort, safety and performance – don’t jeopardize this. Buy good quality saddles and use a saddler that is an expert in their trade.

Debbie works for equiShopping.com, an Equestrian portal based in the UK which operates across Europe – see http://www.equishopping.com/uk/.

The site offers an equestrian only comparison shopping facility for thousands of equestrian products for the horse, rider and stable and equestrian classified ads for horses for sale across Europe and beyond.

For Equestrian retailers equiShopping is an on-line route to market – you can visit the equiShopping Merchant Centre for more information about this.

Author: Debbie Burnett
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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My mom and I share a horse and she rides western and my saddle broke and need to ride english with a western saddle because i have a lesson. ! HELP!! PLEASE!!!

I am mostly asking for an easy way to measure my thoroughbred for a western saddle that fits, but also, a site i found, saddleonline.com, has nice looking saddles, but it is unbelievably low priced. I’m not sure what to think about it.
als, what are some tips for teaching horses to jump? My horse loves western but is also a natural jumper. He has days when he jumps anything, but he gets bored with jumping very quickly. what should i do to keep him interested?
I appreciate any help with these questions and just to clarify, i am NOT new with horses. only new to western and I’m not exactly sure how to train jumping.

Is your horse comfortable with you on his right side? Can you mount from either side with your horse standing quietly? Can you lead him from either side? Is he comfortable with new things approaching him from his right side? Even if he is comfortable with almost everything on his right side, you still need to practice all of your training exercises both sides. This way he maintains his confidence level and his trust in your relationship.

If your horse is not comfortable with one or more of the above mentioned exercises, then you need to raise both his level of confidence and trust in you. I will give you some exercises that you can use to raise your horse’s confidence level, starting with ground work. Since groundwork is the foundation for all training that is where we will start. By building his confidence on the ground you carry that same level of confidence into the saddle.

First off, start your work session like any other session. I recommend lunging or free lunging your horse for about 10-15 minutes prior to starting a work session. This will allow you to read your horse and assess his mental attitude.

Now that you have lunged your horse it is time for the work session.

Suggested list of items you can use for the work session:

cotton balls
Pringles can (or other container to add rocks or other noisy items to)
western saddle blanket/ large bath towel
“carrot” stick or short lunge whip
plastic grocery bag (to tie to “carrot stick”/ short whip)
tarp
umbrella
hula hoops
paper cups
large ball (like an exercise ball)
party streamers
any other item that may raise your horses level of excitement

The above list is just to get you started. Be creative and incorporate other items that could cause your horse to become nervous or anxious. Please keep SAFETY in mind when introducing new items, if you do NOT think that it will be safe then do NOT use it. The purpose of this exercise is to raise your horse’s level of confidence as well as build a stronger relationship. You need to introduce items that you know can make your horse nervous. However, as the exercise becomes a routine he will gradually lose his nervousness with an item and his confidence will improve. Pretty soon you will have a very confident horse that is not bothered by “scary” things.

To start this you will need your horse to have a halter and a lead, with the lead attached. Now you want to introduce an item off the list (or one that you came up with). The first item that I would introduce would be a smaller item, or one that would cause the LEAST amount of excitement. This is meant to build trust not force trust.

To introduce a new item, go ahead and pick it up (I like to have all of the items ready to grab in the arena with me, usually laying on the ground in the middle). Show it to your horse and let him look at it and sniff if for a minute or so. When he is relaxed and not excited you can take the item and touch it to your horse. I like to start on the left side, since this is usually the side that most riders and horses are at their highest level of comfort. Start by touching him on his shoulder area. If he remains calm then proceed to rub him along his back, up his neck, and on the side and top of his haunches *use caution anytime you are close to the hind end, remember any horse has to potential to kick*. If he remains calm with you touching him with the item on his left side, then proceed to his right side. Again let him see the item and smell it. Then you can proceed to touch his shoulder area with the item. If he remains calm you can proceed to rub him along his back, up his neck, on the side and top of his haunches *use caution anytime you are close to the hind end, remember any horse has to potential to kick*. Add plenty of praise for any positive behavior.

Lets increase the level of difficulty and add another item, one that is “scarier” that the last object. For example lets add the Pringles can that contains rocks. This is not a common object that we encounter in riding, so it may cause your horse to be anxious especially because it makes strange sounds.

Start again by allowing your horse to see the object and smell it. After he has done this and is relaxed, shake it lightly and add some noise. If your horse backs up or tries to leave, stop the noise, and calmly let him to see the can again. Allow him to see that the can will NOT eat him. Once his excitement level has come back down, let him sniff the can again. Then proceed to make the light shaking noise again. If he is calm with the noise you can try touching it to his left shoulder. Start by touching him on his shoulder area. If he remains calm you can proceed to rub him along his back, up his neck, on the side and top of his haunches *use caution anytime you are close to the hind end, remember any horse has to potential to kick*. If he remains calm with you touching him with the item on his left side, then proceed to his right side. Again let him see the item and smell it. Then you can proceed to touch his shoulder area with the item. If he remains calm you can rub him along his back, up his neck, on the side and top of his haunches *use caution anytime you are close to the hind end, remember any horse has to potential to kick*. Add plenty of praise for any positive behavior.

It could take over 500 repetitions of the same boring exercise with the same object. You could stand in the arena for 45 minutes every day for the next 3 weeks until your horse has enough confidence and trust in you to allow you to touch him with a “scary” object/ item. Do NOT LET THIS DISCOURAGE you.

The best training is BORING to watch. Horses learn through consistency and boring repetition. Training should not have your horse bouncing off the walls and hanging from the rafters. These are signs that your horse does not understand what is being asked of him and that it is causing him to be fearful. You cannot build a relationship on trust if there is fear present.

Every horse will set his own pace with training. Some will progress faster while others take soooo long that you want to quit. The end result will be a horse that is completely confident in his relationship with you as well as having complete trust in you. The bond you will solidify will be unbreakable.

Have a wonderful holiday season, and always send me any questions that you may have.

Editor’s Note: Based in Sugar Grove IL, Sara McKiness is a Certified Horse Trainer who helps riders improve their communication with horses without punishment. She graduated valedictorian from Meredith Manor International Equestrian Center (MMIEC) where she majored in teaching and training, and minored in Farrier Science.

Horse Logic 2009

http://www.saddle-logic.com Fheonix Soft Treed Saddles

Classical Dressage, Western, and Hunt Seat Lessons. Come ride exceptional & experienced lesson horses. Based in Sugar Grove IL with travel to your facility available. Learn better communication with your horse & build your relationship. Fully insured with over 19 years riding experience. Contact Sara for more information 630-631-2746

Sara McKiness
Horse Logic
Sugar Grove, IL
630-631-2746
http://www.horselogic.net

Author: Sara McKiness
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Obligation the parts of feature compel in safe working impose is a trustworthiness that comes with owning and sport a horse. When we bonk on the sphere of an carnal, we poorness to not exclusive endure on the mending of the brute, we requisite to digest on everything that comes with having an fleshly.

Owning a equid doesn’t signify rightful making certain that the equine if fed, patterned and sporting. You need to attain careful that the framework gets grooming too. Piece of sharing the framework travail is athletics him. You pauperism to ready the equipment primed for travelling.

The notch and all of its parts essential to be kept in excavation sect. This is for the aid for both you and your framing. When the command fits the way it is supposed, you instrument change a prosperous equine. Unfortunately, it is too relaxed to soul something not fit mitt.

The seat is an intricate decoration. There are umteen parts to west saddles. All of these parts requisite to be inspected and kept in working ordering. Whatsoever are writer essential than others. It is punter to be riskless than worthless afterward.

The gullet is a endeavor of the command that if not decently rhythmic, it gift crusade problems for the equine. If it is too make then it module rub the framework’s withers. If it is too sweeping, it faculty sit on the buck’s shoulders. This stake farther than it should be and again it give rub the frame’s withers.

The withers on a racer are the expanse at the ordinal finished the eleventh thoracic vertebrae. When this country is rubbed, it can effort whatever grotty sores and bruises. This makes for a really lovesick soldiery. You can’t goddamn him though. Wouldn’t you be riant if you had to deteriorate something all day that rubbed you raw? This is how the framework feels.

The gullet is not the only effort of northwestern command that can drive problems. If the cinches are not appropriated work of they can entity a lot of problems. The cinches supply postponement the paraphernalia on the equid. If the cinches are not assumed charge of, not exclusive can it rub the racer, but it can crusade an fortuity. This occurrence can ache you, the racer or both of you.

The cinches coming friable or breaking can create the gear to proceed free. This can justification you to retrogress your set. You try to accurate and acquire your fit. You flip the equid off balance because you were in one dapple and now you are in a opposite pip. Depending on the terrain where you are riding and the temperament of your framing, you may righteous slope off. You may fortune out and exclusive get bruised.

Notwithstanding, you may be in a situation where the equine gets spooked and you regress know of the state rather rapidly. This can be sad for you and your framework. At finest you can be stung sufficiency that it causes you to be unfit; at lowest you die. Your buck can transmute blistered sufficiency that he either dies now or instrument make to be put drink because he won’t be able to aid. All of this can be avoided by winning fixture of the burden and its parts.

You can find more information about Western saddles at http://www.partsofawesternsaddle.com, where you can read about parts of a Western saddle.

Whether it is for vitamins, minerals, fats or protein, horse supplements are very common. Requiring only water, a salt or mineral lick and quality forage, a healthy horse usually does not need supplements. Work, athletic or breeding horses, as well as aged or infirm horses may require supplements to give their bodies the proper nutrition. Otherwise supplements should not be used as a substitute for proper nutrition.

There are a plethora of commercially available horse supplements. dressage bridles Digestive aids, colic prevention, electrolytes, hoof supplements, growth development, energy supplements, blood building and vitamins and mineral supplements are just a few of the options. Also common are added fat and protein supplements. The most common type of protein added is soybean meal, although cottonseed, peanut and linseed meals are also given to horses. A good fat source given to sources is vegetable oil of varying types, corn oil being the most popular. Rice bran, too, is used as a fat supplement, for it contains 20% fat in addition to fiber. Provided it’s ground up, flaxseed offers beneficial fat to horses as well.

The average horse in good health will not need supplements. Access to water, forage and minerals is really all they need. Horses that engage in work, athletics or breeding may need something extra in terms of nutrition. treeless saddles Aged or infirm horses may also need something extra that normal nutrition cannot provide. As with horse feed, the use of supplements is dependent on the horse’s size.

Horse owners must have a thorough understanding of equine nutrition. Horses have particular eating habits and their digestion is suited to feeding in certain ways. For proper horse health, supplements may or may not be necessary. Supplemental forms of vitamins, minerals, fats and proteins are all available for horse, although they are not a substitute for a healthy, natural diet. Given constant access to fresh water, minerals and good forage like grass or hay, horses in good health need nothing else. Work, athletic or stud horses, however, may need supplements to fuel depleted bodies.

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