Posts Tagged ‘Veterinarians’

If this is going to be the first horse you own, make sure you know how much money you have to spend on the horse. A horse is an expensive animal to purchase, say nothing of the whole hobby of horse ownership. Read through the segments below to help you calculate the costs you can expect to incur. Research, then type up the costs of these products and services in your area. Make sure the total amount fits into your budget. Also, bear in mind the results you compile are likely to vary between states, regions and counties. In general, boarding, hay, and vet care are more expensive in bigger cities than in the country.

Initial Costs
The amount of money you spend on a horse depends on several factors, including the horse’s age and training. If you only want a pet for the pleasure of riding, expect to pay $1,600 to $1,800 almost anywhere you live. If you intend to show the horse, you will pay much more. The show horse is what makes the difference in cost depending on your locality. Equipment and supplies are another immediate expense. The short list includes a saddle, saddle pad, bridle, halter, and grooming equipment. Riding clothes are needed, too, if this is not just a pet horse. If you are going to board the horse on your property, and you don’t already have horse facilities, you need to build them beforehand. If this is all new to you, the cost of all this can really open your eyes.

Ongoing Expenses
Most people think the initial outlay for a horse and equipment is the largest expense they’ll have after becoming horse owners. The reality is that maintenance will cost much more over the life span of the animal. Expect to encounter regular expenses when owning a horse. The cost of each item and service in the list below will vary depending on where you live, so do your research. Call local veterinarians, farriers (the people who trim and put shoes on hooves), and tack and feed stores to determine how much each item will cost. Estimate high so you won’t be disappointed.

Boarding: If you don’t have your own horse property, you’ll need to keep your horse some place else. The most likely option is a commercial boarding farm. The stable where you take lessons might offer this service. When boarding, you have to pay a monthly fee for a stall, pasture, or a fenced enclosure. This fee usually includes food and stall maintenance, but may not include bedding.

Bedding: If your horse is boarded where bedding isn’t part of the plan, or you wish to keep him at home, you’ll have to provide shavings or another type of bedding, which you will need to clean and freshen every day.

Feed: If your horse lives with you, you need to provide feed, which includes hay and/or maintenance of your pasture. Don’t forget feed extras, such as pellets or food for special dietary needs

Dietary supplements: Feed supplements, which you can add to help your horse’s joints, attitude, or other issues, are popular and plentiful at tack and feed stores. If you plan to give one or more of these supplements to your horse, add this cost to your monthly estimate.

Veterinary treatment: Horses can get sick, too. When it happens to your household, you have to call out the vet. The problem might be minor or require minimal treatment. I might be major and require surgery. Vet bills can be very high, and they can rise quickly if a horse has a serious or a chronic problem.

Preventive veterinary care: All adult horses need regular preventive care. Vaccinations and de-worming usually necessary several times each year. Overgrown teeth are a common problem requiring filing at least once each year.

Shoes and hoof trimming: Horses that wear shoes require new ones every six to eight weeks. A farrier will still need to trim the hooves of the horse if you choose to have him remain shoeless.

Insurance: Many horse owners insure their animals for major medical, mortality, loss of use, and/or liability. It’s usually a good idea. Add the cost of premiums to your list.

Training and lessons: If you are a beginning rider, you will want basic lessons in these skills. Your horse needs to train right along with you. Training is especially necessary if you intend to show your horse. Lessons are usually weekly expenses.

Show expenses: If you plan to show your horse, you have to spend money on show clothes, tack (equipment for your horse), entry fees, and transportation.

Now comes the scary part. Add the total costs. You’ll quickly discover the shape and color of your horse future. The number may not look very cheerful, but too many that have preceded you have gotten their feet wet, not expecting to take a bath.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

If you already own a Bunn, always use Bunn coffee filters to prevent overflow and to remove all chances of a bitter or papery taste in your coffee.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Programmable Multi-cooker

There are great pleasures in owning horses and there are some not so pleasant chores that need to be done. Some people opt to have their veterinarians handle the chore of sheath/udder cleaning, which is fine. However, you need to make sure your horse is taught to accept the cleaning process before the vet arrives. Most mare owners decide to take on udder cleaning themselves, as udders are simple to maintain. Alternately, gelding owners can have a more daunting task.

You may want the veterinarian to start you out or at least give you guidelines on sheath cleaning such as the frequency, best cleanser to use or tricks he may have to make this job and maintenance between cleanings easier. If you wonder about the importance of such a task, I have heard stories of horses that have gotten urinary infections, maggot infestations, and sheath infections from neglect. Therefore, it may seem tedious, but it can save you a lot of real agony if you let it go unchecked.

If you have already tried this task to no avail then try these exercises to get your horse accepting the procedure. You will want to take your horse to an enclosed area, such as a round pen or arena. You can stay in his stall if it is free of any protrusions that your horse could get hurt on. What you are going to do is sack out your horse with your hand. You can do this with the halter on if you feel you have enough control or a bridle with a full cheek snaffle and continuous rope reins if you need more control.

Start by approaching your horse and rubbing his face and then walk away making a ‘V’ shape in front of him. Turn back around and have your horse take at least one step toward you. Continue this approach and retreat technique continuing down your horses’ sides. When you get to and beyond the horse’s shoulder, you should keep the horse’s head facing the same side you are on. This way if the horse tries to kick you can bring his nose toward you with the lead rope or rein and that will take his hip away from you. Alternate sides and go over every inch of your horses’ body, saving the problem area for last. Always keep yourself in a safe position to avoid being kicked if your horse should have a strong reaction.

If you find other places your horse is not comfortable with you touching, you will want to stay working on that point until he is. You will run your hand over the area as quickly as you can without frightening the horse, but fast enough that your hand is gone before the horse reacts. Then you will gradually slow your hand down on each approach until the horse is good with your hand resting on the spot. If you cannot get to the spot then run your hand to the point you think he will leave and take your hand off just before that. Then gradually get closer each approach.

When your horse is comfortable with being touched everywhere but the sheath/udder area, you are ready to start working this area. You will treat it the same way as you did the rest of the horse but with extreme caution as you will be an easy target for kicking. If your horse is a bad kicker, you will want to work on more exercises that address the kicking before continuing with this exercise.

We will start on the left side of the horse. You will take the rein/lead in your left hand and as much as possible, keep your body by the horse’s shoulder as if to mount. This will keep you the safest if the horse decides to kick out to the side. You will bring your horses’ head as much to the left with the left hand as you can without the horse stepping to the right with its hip. You will then take your right hand, begin sacking out the belly area, and work back to the sheath/udder. Do not try to leave your hand there if the horse is not comfortable. Do as before and take your hand away before the horse reacts and slowly build up the amount of time you leave your hand at the sheath/udder.

When the horse is comfortable with your hand, you can introduce the water. Make sure it is warm water to start; we do not want to surprise the horse with cold water at this point. If you will be using gloves and sponge, introduce these as you did your hand. Never assume the horse will be good with them because he was good with your hand. Always keep yourself in a safe position when introducing something new. For the sheath, you will want to introduce the water to the inside and outside of the sheath. Some horses will be fine until you try to clean the inside so be sure to keep the horses’ head to the side you are on and keep yourself up by the shoulder as much as possible.

When the horse is comfortable with being touched in this area by water and your hand, you can either continue and complete the washing lessons or leave the rest to the veterinarian. If you choose to clean your horses’ sheath, it may be a good idea to have your vet go over all the details and possibly show you how to get the sheath completely clean.

When the horse accepts the water, you can introduce the cleanser. Again, do not just dive in; only do as much at one time as the horse is comfortable with adding a little more each time. As soon as your horse understands you are not going to hurt him, he should relax. There are many good sheath-cleaning products on the market or you can simply cover your gloved hand with baby oil and slowly work your way into the sheath applying the oil liberally as you go. The baby oil will help loosen any caked on dirt and debris and can be left without washing off. Alternatively, you can allow it to set for a few minutes then use a bucket of warm water and sheath cleaner to wash it out. Then get a bucket or hose with warm water and rinse it well. Be sure to purchase a cleanser that will not irritate the horse if you cannot get it completely rinsed.

Whether you take on the task yourself or call the veterinarian, it is you responsibility to learn how often your horse needs to be cleaned. Each horse is different but try to have it done at least four times a year; some need it done once a month. If you will provide your horse with this service you will not only add to his comfort and health, you will also have a happier partner.

Jodi Wilson is a recognized authority on the subject of horse training and has spent almost 30 years developing training techniques and solutions for horse owners no matter the discipline or breed.

Jodi is an Accredited Josh Lyons trainer, and is Certified in John Lyons training techniques. Her website, http://Jodi-Wilson.com, provides a wealth of information to improve the relationship between horse and rider. Jodi is also available for clinics and demonstrations as well as lessons, apprenticeships, and horse training.

Jodi has trained and competed in Reining, Sorting, Jumping, Dressage, English and Western Pleasure, Trail and Problem Solving.

Author: Jodi M Wilson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: PCB Prototype & Manufacturing

Even more essential to horses than humans, a steady supply of good food and water is vital to horse health. Horses naturally spend most of their time chewing, swallowing, and digesting. As with most herd animals, the equine digestive system is meant to be constantly on the go and to process vast quantities of fibrous food that we would find utterly impossible. To give your horse the best chance at a happy, long life, I will outline the basics of food and water for your horse.

Food for Your Horse

There are understandable disagreements about the best food for a horse. After all, there are so many factors to consider, and each horse is unique within different environments. Individual horses have different nutritional requirements. Where and how the horse lives, the age of the horse, what kind of work the horse does, and the horse’s own physiology affects the optimal diet. In general, horses that are ridden hard in demanding disciplines, such as cattle work, need more calories than horses used for casual trail use. Therefore, the advice below will provide you with a solid understanding of the needs of most horses. Horse veterinarians will be your best source for your horse’s specific food requirements. He’ll have access to the horse’s records, and will be familiar with his nutritional needs. He will also be more aware of the types of locally available hay for your animal. What is plentiful in one part of the country may be far too expensive in another.

Hay is basically composed of plants that have been cut, dried, and baled. There are two types of hay, legumes and grasses. Alfalfa, rich in protein, calcium, and other nutrients, is the legume horses most commonly eat, though some vets believe it’s far too rich for horses, and should be left for cattle. The most common grass hays are timothy, orchard, and bermuda. Hay is a proper stable food for a horse. It provides roughage in addition to nutrition. Roughage is vital to keep the horse’s digestive system working properly and also satisfies the horse’s natural tendency to chew.

Hay cubes are concentrated blocks of hay. Hay cubes tend to be cheaper than hay and are good for older horses with worn-down teeth. This is because the cubes break apart easily when chewed. Cubes are less dusty, as well, so it’s easier on horses that may have respiratory problems. Cubes are also ideal for horses who have trouble maintaining a good weight. Nonetheless, most horses prefer baled hay to cubes because the normal hay gives them plenty on which to chew.

Pasture grass is the ideal staple food if there is enough volume and diversity of its content. Horses are happiest in pastures, and follow their instincts honed over thousands of years of browsing. You can verify that your pasture is of good quality by calling your local agricultural office. Ask an expert to inspect your pasture, and to help you analyze its nutritional content. Otherwise, supplementation of ordinary hay may be required. If it is less than optimal, measures can taken for fortify and improve a horse pasture. If you don’t have pasture land, and wish to create it, don’t begin without contacting a local agricultural agent for knowledge and help. Be forewarned; starting and maintaining a quality horse pasture can be a big undertaking.

Watering Your Horse

I can’t overemphasize the importance of providing plenty of clean, fresh water as part your horse’s daily care. Humans unwisely do without it daily, but a horse’s need for water is even more acute. The horse’s health and digestive ability heavily depends upon it. An automatic watering device that can be set up in the horse’s stall is best. A large bucket that you refill several times a day is an alternative, or a trough that holds enough water for a day or two at a time.

If you stable your horse where temperatures fall below freezing, you need to keep your horse’s water supply from turning to ice. Consider using a heating element made especially to work with horse watering devices or manually break the ice whenever it forms. Cold water doesn’t do horses any good. I recommend the heating element because it requires less work on your part and also keeps the water at a warmer temperature, encouraging your horse to drink.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

If you already own a Bunn, always use Bunn coffee filters to prevent overflow and to remove all chances of a bitter or papery taste in your coffee.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Duty tariff