Posts Tagged ‘Thoroughbreds’

Right now I get a 10% commission when a horse sells. I train the horses prior to them being shown for sale but there are way too many horses to keep up with and nothing is selling. I am going to start charging per ride but I don’t know how much. I’m young (18) and just starting out but I can ride better than most. The horses are mostly young green thoroughbreds.

They have 12 horses. One is a philly who has never been beaten 19/0. Them there is the best of the thoroughbreds who are qualified legit contenders. Do I notice the philly for her record? Should I choose the preakness winner? Or a middle of a odds for a choice? I am totally confused. How can you know which horse is the best one in a race like this?
Great. so will the undefeated race horse be the best one tomorrow though? Will Zenyatta cross the finish line ahead of all the other contenders? that is the question????

There are as many horse facts as there are breeds of horses and fanciers to raise them. The smallest of horses is called the Fallabella Miniature Horse, and it can be housebroken and kept as an inside pet. Outside of this breed though, a horse is a horse, not an animal like a big dog.

All horses on the Earth today can trace their ancestry to the Arabian horse. These majestic horses used to live with their owners in tents in the desert, and they are still a breed that is hardy and forms close attachments to its people. The Arabian is a hot-blooded horse, though, and when American farmers needed horses to pull plows and not just carts, they needed something bigger.

They learned from what their European cousins had already done, and bred the Arabs with larger horses called cold-bloods or drafters. This not only developed into a bigger horse, facts confirm, but it also calmed the temperament somewhat, since Arabs can be high-strung.

For racing, the best horse, facts state, is the Thoroughbred. This is arguably the fastest horse, unless you’re racing a quarter of a mile. The winners in short races like this are usually American Quarter Horses, whose very name comes from the race it was bred to win. Quarter Horses also make great cattle horses, with a cow sense that can tell them what a calf will do, before it does it.

For those who enjoy the beauty of different and unusual colors of horses, there are breeds who carry genes that insure colorful patterns in their young. The American Paint horse and the Pinto Horse both have colorful coat patterns of black, brown, or other colors and white. The Paint horse must have both parents registered as Paints, Quarter Horses or Thoroughbreds. Pinto horses, on the other hand, are any horses with the pinto markings. Their background may be of any breed.

Appaloosas are also colorful. They make have a blanket and spots on their rump, or they may be speckled and spotted all over. There are different patterns of Appaloosas, and they can be very striking. Their patterns include snowflake, blanket, leopard and semi-leopard. In build, both Paints and Appaloosas are built normally like the typical Quarter Horse.

The Morgan Horse, facts say, is another breed that most people agree was founded in this country. He is perfectly suited for hauling carts or small wagons, and he is a hardy breed with sound feet.

The main Draft horses used in the United States are the Clydesdale, the Percheron and the Belgian. Clydesdales are usually bay in color, and are the most well-known draft horse breed, thanks to the Budweiser Clydesdales of St Louis, MO. Percherons can be gray, black or white. They are born black and get lighter as they age. Belgians are usually blond in color, and they are the main work horse for Amish farmers.

The Amish also usually use a special breed for pulling their carts. The Standardbred is generally dark brown, bay or black in color, and they have a choppy trot that it useful for pulling but difficult to ride astride. Amish horses are usually hardy, and you’ll rarely see them blanketed, even in the coldest of weather, since they allow them to grow thick winter coats.

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Author: Jenny Styles
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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LOL.

I’ve only ever ridden two part Quarter horses. Never a full Quarter horse as they are very rare in New Zealand! I’ve always wanted to! And I swear we don’t even HAVE Tennesse Walking horses here!!!
Thoroughbreds are most common for people who compete. A lot of people who pleasure ride/trek own Standardbreds. We do have most other breeds. Cross breeds are what most people look for here.

Horses were born to eat grass, it is their natural food. The supplemental feeding of grain was created by man in order to keep weight on horses as they were being used for beasts of burden. Horses pulling caravans across this vast country did not have time to graze, so man had to supplement their need for food. This is probably when feed bags were invented. As man settled and began to farm, horses were necessary for plowing and traveling long distances either for supplies or for herding cattle; again demonstrating the need for grain.

Horses can survive on grass alone. The need to give them grain will depend on the age of the horse, what kind of activity the horse is performing on a daily basis, the amount of pasture that is available for the individual and the quality of the pasture. Young horses that are weanlings (babies just weaned from their mother) and yearlings are growing at a fast pace. Actually any horse under the age of five for most breeds is still growing. If you want a horse that is strong and will grow to their full potential, giving them grain is the right thing to do. Horses that are being ridden often or on a daily basis should have grain. Now if your horse is in a pasture that has a lot of weeds or the grass stays short because there are too many horses in one pasture, then you may also want to supplement them with hay as well as grain. Another factor that comes into play is the breed of the horse. Certain breeds will need only a small amount of feed, others such as Thoroughbreds, need much more grain to accomplish the development of a healthy, strong animal.

Being a horse owner means that you must monitor your horses weight and condition constantly, whether they are in a stall or in a pasture. If you have a horse or pony that is an aggressive eater and is becoming too fat or even obese, when you are graining the other horses in the pasture, you will have to put that horse in a catch pen, usually built into a corner of a pasture, with no grain until the other horses are finished eating. Remember, if you are giving grain to pasture horses, the amount that you feed will be much less than that of winter time. Lets’ say you turn your horses out during the day in the winter. They will just forage around and pick a little on old dead grass that has little to offer as opposed to gorging themselves all day long and even during the nighttime. Horses can suffer from a severe condition called laminitis (founder) when they are carrying too much weight and producing too much heat in their bodies, and the heat travels to their feet. This condition is not only very painful for the horse but it is a permanent condition. They become more sensitive, can re-founder, will need extra care and specialized shoeing, and it can even cause them to loose their life if they are not removed from the environment that originally caused them to founder.

Horses have been around for millions of years and they survived without grain. The decision is yours and if you have horses in a rich pasture and they are not being ridden often and they have a healthy weight on them, then grain probably is not necessary. As long as your horse has a plentiful supply of rich grass, plenty of fresh water, trees or woods or a lean-to structure for protection, and you have them on a regimented worming program (will be discussed at a later date), life will be good for them without grain. Even though they seem to be self sufficient, horses always need to have a watchful eye on them at least once a day. It is necessary to check their water and clean the waterer or tubs often. Make sure all the horses seem happy, and are following their usual daily habits. You must also check them thoroughly making sure there are no serious cuts, wounds, or kick marks, and check their eyes for injuries or signs of illness or allergies.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my youtube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
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It is thought, by some, that the foundation American Quarter Horse stock has at its roots Arabian, Turk, and Barb breeds. Others believe that the breed began with the acquisition of Chickasaw horses which were likely of Spanish extraction. Their history seems to begin around 1690, when horses exported from England were bred with native horses in America. The result of this cross was a small, stocky horse which was extremely fast in the quarter-mile sprint which the colonists loved to participate in during their off-time. Even when pitted against Thoroughbreds, this little horse came in first more often than not. Thus, the horse became known as the Quarter Horse.

In the 1800s, when the pioneers began to move west, they wanted a horse that could endure the rigors and was always willing to work. Their horse of choice was the Quarter Horse. They quickly found that the breed was excellent to use when working with cattle. Cattlemen soon preferred this animal because it seemed to know ahead of time what the cattle would do, and naturally moved to direct the herd where the cowboys wanted them to go. Even after the automobile was invented, Quarter Horses were still used almost exclusively on many ranches.

In 1940, the American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) was formed. From that year until the present, Quarter Horse breeders have worked diligently to perfect the bloodlines. The Association has set forth strict guidelines with regard to registration of American Quarter Horses. AQHs are allowed to have limited white markings on their faces, and below their knees. If there are white patches or spots anywhere else on the horse, it is considered to not be a true Quarter Horse.

The AQHA recognizes 13 colors as acceptable for the breed. The most dominant color is sorrel, which is a reddish-brown. The other colors are bay, black, brown, buckskin, dun, gray, grullo, palomino, red roan, and blue roan. What is called a gray is what most of us perceive as white. But, there are no “white” Quarter Horses.

There are two main body types which are acceptable for registration as Quarter Horses. The “stock” type, which is shorter, more compact, stockier, and well-muscled, yet agile. The “running” type is lighter and is bred and trained for sprinting.

Because this breed is very versatile, bloodlines are built with specific tasks in mind when producing the offspring. For AQH’s shown “at halter”, the line is bred to have a heavier body appearance, because these horses are incredibly muscled. For horses used as “reiners” and “cutters”, the build is usually smaller and the horses possess cat-like, quicker movement and powerful hindquarters. Those bred for Western pleasure riding have a level “topline” and smoother gaits. Those which will be used for racing have longer legs and a leaner body build and those bred as show hunters have a similar build to the runners, but their bloodlines will include traits which are suited to horses used for hunting purposes. The whole Quarter Horse breed possesses speed, stamina, power, and an inherent willingness to please.

This horse is usually 14 to 16 hands (56 to 64 inches, or 142.24 to 162.56 centimeters) at the shoulder. The weight can vary drastically, depending on the purpose for which the horse was bred.

The American Quarter Horse is the most popular breed in the United States. And there are approximately 3.7 million registered American Quarter Horses worldwide, making it one of the most populous breeds in modern history.

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Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Horses [http://horse-guides.com/]

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Author: Michael Russell
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Few breeds of horse have captured the imagination like the Arabian horse has. Since the dawn of history, Arabian horses have inspired and influenced many people.

In the days of early history, Arabian horses were prized as warhorses and mounts for royalty. The Old Testament in the Bible contains many references and descriptions to these horses, the most notable being in the book of Job, where a horse “rejoices in his strength” and “is not frightened – he devours the distance with fierceness.”

Artwork of the time depicts these chariot horses with many of the physical attributes of modern Arabian horses, such as the dished face and high-set tail. The most prized warhorses were bred in Egypt, and it was indicative of the great wealth of King Solomon that he built entire cities to house Egyptian-bred warhorses and their handlers. These attributes of courage and speed are still prized in Arab horses today.

Arising much later, Islamic legend recounts how Allah made the first Arab horse from the four winds (or the south wind, depending on which version of the myth the teller uses), gifting it and all Arabian horses with “flight without wings” and naming it, “Lord of the other animals” and one of the “Glories of the Earth.”

The Bedouin people in particular bred Arabian horses with great care for the purity of the bloodline, which they called Asil. They took this purity of the blood so seriously that if a mare was ever bred to a non-asil stallion, both she and all future offspring would be “contaminated.”

Legend has it that the Asil strain are descended from the five favourite mares of the prophet Mohammed. It is ironic today that some Bedouin-bred Arabian horses are not considered or registered as purebreds, because the breeders do not see the need for paperwork to guarantee a horse’s breeding and do not register their horses.

Arab horses have also played a vital role in the development of Thoroughbred racehorses. All modern Thoroughbreds can trace their ancestry back to one of three founding Arabian stallions, known as the Byerly Turk, the Darley Arabian and the Godolphin Barb (“Turk” and “Barb” were synonymous with “Arabian” at that time).

Arabian horses today are creatures of great beauty. Although they are not tall horses – some measure only 14 hands – they are never called ponies, even though they technically fall into this definition. The distinctive features of the breed are the dished or concave face (as opposed to the more Roman nose of, for example, the Shire horse), the flowing high-set tail, the large expressive eyes and a dark skin colour. The most common colours for an Arabian horse are grey (which includes white), chestnut and bay. Black is a rare color, though not completely unheard of.

It may have been a more common colour in antiquity; the Old Testament lists black horses alongside “white”, “red” and “dappled.” Arab horses are surprisingly strong and tough for their size, and these qualities mean that they are popular choices when breeding cross-breeds.

There is very little work that the Arabian horse cannot do. Their powers of stamina make them very suitable for endurance work. Their intelligence and beauty gives them a competitive edge in the show ring, and for show jumping and eventing. Speed makes the Arab horse an excellent racer – their role in developing the Thoroughbred has already been mentioned.

Intelligence also makes Arab horses suitable for stock work – one modern tale tells of how the owner of an Arabian stock horse was mocked by fellow-workers because of his “fancy show-pony” until they saw just what the horse could do. And as they have a willingness to please and a great capacity for affection – a result of millennia of close contact with humans – Arab horses are popular as pleasure horses and companion animals.

For more information on horses, try visiting http://www.interestinghorses.com – a website that specializes in providing horse related tips, advice and resources including information on arabian horse.

Author: Samantha Davis
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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A lot of riders struggle to develop trot lengthenings with their first level dressage horses. What follows are 7 quick tips to help your horse with his lengthenings.

1. THE AIDS FOR TROT LENGTHENINGS

When you’re ready to ask for an upward transition from working trot to a trot lengthening, apply the aids simultaneously, as follows:

* Seat: use a driving seat, as though you’re pushing the back of the saddle toward the front of the saddle.

* Legs: press lightly with both legs to signal your horse to express his energy forward over the ground in longer strides.

* Reins: soften your hands a bit forward, but keep a contact with your horse’s mouth, and a bend in your elbows. Do not ‘throw the reins away’.

2. TROT LENGTHENINGS develop suppleness.

Here’s an image that will help you understand the type of suppleness you’re developing when you practice lengthenings with your First Level horse. Think of your horse’s body as a rubber band that can easily stretch and contract. Not only will this quality make him more athletic, but it’s also extremely useful for all disciplines of riding. Take showjumping, for instance. Just think how many jumping faults could be avoided if your horse’s stride were easily adjustable like this!

3. MAINTAIN THE TEMPO OF THE WORKING TROT

As with most new work, when you begin to incorporate lengthenings into your training at First Level, you start in the trot. It’s a bonus if you have a horse that can naturally lengthen his trot. Many Warmbloods and Arabians have this ability, but I’ve worked with a lot of Thoroughbreds, Connemaras, Morgans, and Quarter Horses who really need help developing their trot lengthenings.

If you ask your horse to lengthen in the way I’ve described and the tempo gets quicker because he runs with short, fast steps, you need to systematically develop his lengthenings. Part of his difficulty may be purely physical. He may lack the suppleness and strength that he will gain in time by basic dressage training. But part of the problem may be that the horse just doesn’t understand that he is to take longer strides in the same tempo. He actually thinks he’s being obedient when he rushes off because he feels you close your legs, and he responds eagerly by immediately going forward.

I often find that I can help him understand that he is to lengthen his strides without speeding up, by asking for the trot lengthenings while going up hills. Once he gets the idea, I go back into the ring and see if he can transfer this concept of lengthening in the same tempo on the level footing.

Sometimes I do something unusual with the horse that tends to quicken his trot tempo when asked to lengthen. Since it takes time to develop the trot lengthening, I go out in a big field, or I go all the way around the ring and round off the corners so that I don’t have to slow down for them. First, I take up a heavier contact than normal. In this way, I can temporarily act as the horse’s fifth leg and purposely support him so he doesn’t lose his balance. Then I ask for a lengthening in posting trot. While posting to the trot, I rise very high and stay in the air a fraction of a second longer than normal. I pretend that I can hold the horse in the air with my body. And, in my mind’s eye, I picture him floating over the ground with his feet never touching the ground.

I ask my horse to give me a greater and greater effort and eventually one of two things will happen. The first is that he realizes that his legs can’t go any faster, and he ‘shifts into overdrive’ and takes some longer, slower steps. At this point, I immediately stop, praise him, and let him walk on a loose rein.

In my experience I’ve found that the first time, I might have to go all the way around a ring once or twice before I get a couple of longer, slower steps. But after the reward, the next effort yields results much sooner. And the same for the next attempt.

The other thing that might happen is that he loses his balance and falls into the canter. This isn’t the disaster it seems to be. If my horse hadn’t lost his balance and cantered, his next trot step probably would have been a bit longer. So I re-establish and immediately ask for a trot lengthening. It’s in that moment that I’m most apt to get a longer stride in a better tempo. And once again if I get even one or two better steps, I stop and praise him. The reward helps the horse to understand that by doing something different, even if initially he doesn’t understand what it is, he’ll be praised.

Once I get two or three better steps as soon as I ask for the trot lengthening, I leave them for another day. During each session the horse builds his understanding of what’s being asked, and over time he physically gets strong enough to lengthen in a good tempo for a greater number of steps.

4. HEAR THE TEMPO

Use some good auditory images to help you while you’re teaching your horse to do a trot lengthening in the same tempo as his working gait. Pretend you’re standing by a paved road and your eyes are closed. Because the tempo stays exactly the same, you can’t tell from the sound of the footfalls whether your horse is in the working gait, lengthening, or doing the transition in between.

Here’s another auditory image to help you teach your horse to lengthen the trot in the same tempo as his working trot. Pretend you hear a metronome ticking. The tempo stays exactly the same both when you’re in working trot and when you’re in the lengthening. (Even though I’m discussing trot lengthenings at the moment, you can use the same type of auditory image if your horse quickens his tempo in a canter lengthening. ‘Hear’ the tempo as if your horse is moving over the ground with big, ground-covering bounds in slow motion.

If your horse still tends to quicken his tempo when you ask him to do a trot lengthening, overcompensate by imagining that you ‘hear’ the tempo get slower. Pretend that the tempo gets slower because your horse stays suspended in the air for a long time. If you’re doing a posting trot, try rising and sitting more slowly to see if you can be the one to set the pace rather than automatically posting at the speed that your horse chooses.

5. USE FIRMER CONTACT FOR SUPPORT

Don’t be surprised if the contact with your horse’s mouth during trot lengthenings becomes somewhat heavy. Remember that lengthenings are developed out of the working gait at First Level, and the weight in your hands is somewhat firm to begin with. In addition, while your horse is learning how to balance himself during trot lengthenings, his center of gravity might shift even a bit further to his forehand. Don’t be alarmed by this. It’s a stage of his training, and it’s fine to temporarily support him by maintaining a firmer contact. Later on, if you decide to go on to more advanced work, you’ll develop ‘uphill’ extensions out of collected gaits. Because the horse will have a greater degree of self-carriage when he’s in a collected gait, the contact will be lighter.

However, there’s a fine line between a solid, supporting contact and one in which your horse is leaning so heavily on your hands that your arms ache. Here are some things you can try to improve a contact that is too heavy. Before you even begin to ask for a trot lengthening, make sure you drive the horse’s hind legs more under his body by closing both of your legs. In order to carry himself, your horse needs to have his hind legs underneath him. If his hind legs are trailing out behind his body, he can’t support himself in the lengthening and he has no option but to lean on your hands.

You can also ride some quick transitions: from trot to halt and back to trot again, or from the canter to the walk and back to the canter again. This will help to re-balance your horse and make the weight in your hands more comfortable.
Another reason the contact can get too heavy is that you may be asking for too many lengthened strides at one time before your horse is ready. Doing well-balanced trot lengthenings with his hind legs underneath his body for only a few strides at a time is much more valuable for your horse than lengthening for many strides with his hind legs pushing out behind his body. Remember that when you do the downward transition back to the working gait, be sure that you close your legs to send his hind legs under his body. It might feel natural to ask for the downward transition from the lengthening to the working gait by just using the reins. But, as you know by now, if your goal is to rebalance your horse and improve the contact, you need to add hind legs while doing the downward transitions.

6. ALLOW THE FRAME TO ELONGATE IN TROT LENGTHENINGS

In trot lengthenings, the front feet should touch the ground on the spot toward which they are pointing when each leg is at its maximum extension. When a horse has to draw his front legs back toward his body before placing them on the ground, or his toes flip up in front, it usually indicates that he hasn’t been allowed to lengthen his frame.
Sometimes a rider makes it difficult for the horse to lengthen to his utmost. Although I said earlier that you shouldn’t be concerned in the contact is a bit too firm, you want to be sure that you’re not making it heavy because you’re cranking his neck in. If you keep your horse’s neck short by restricting him with strong or non-allowing hands, he has to draw his foreleg back before putting it down. Allow your horse to lengthen his neck and point the tip of his nose more or less forward. To help you to do this, think about ‘opening the front door’ by softening your hands a bit toward your horse’s mouth and by cocking your wrists upward in a way that allows your little fingers to go more forward.

7. SIT UPRIGHT

When you use your driving seat to ask for the transition into the trot lengthening, don’t try to ‘help’ your horse to lengthen by leaning back. Even though you might feel that you can drive him forward this way (and I see many dressage riders doing this in lengthenings and extensions) you’ll just end up driving his back down and making it hollow. Stay vertical at all times.

I learned this lesson about sitting correctly in trot lengthenings the hard way while trying to qualify for the Olympic Festival with Jolicoeur at a competition that was being held at Knoll Farm in Brentwood, New York, back in 1987. One of the finest international judges in the world, the late Mr Jaap Pot, was there. He was a stickler when it came to the correctness of the rider’s seat. I remember Jo and I doing huge extended trots for him. I thought we had done really well until my score sheet came back with extremely low marks for the extensions and the simple comment – rider leaning behind the vertical. Believe me, it made an impression.

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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