Posts Tagged ‘sharp edges’

There are certain things you should consider when buying a new horse trailer. After all, you want make sure that you’re getting a safe, quality trailer that meets the needs of your horse(s), as well as your own needs.

The first and foremost thing you should consider when shopping for a new horse trailer is your horse(s). Keep in mind that horses are claustrophobic by nature. Therefore, a trailer with plenty of room, light, and ventilation will create less stress on the horse. In turn, the horse will load more easily and will travel more comfortably. He will also be less likely to injure himself and will be less likely to suffer from stress-related health problems such as shipping fever, dehydration, and colic.

The Importance of the Size of the Horse

The size of your horse is a very important factor to consider. Most likely, you don’t enjoy being cramped-up in tight quarters when you travel. And, neither does your horse! If the horse doesn’t have enough room to move its legs forward and sideways, it could lose its balance while moving. Narrow trailers and trailers with full center dividers can potentially cause the horse to scramble, because he does not have enough space to spread his legs to keep his balance. Be aware that slant load trailers are not styled for horses that are over 15.3h, and the length of the stall is not long enough to allow the horse freedom of movement. Horses over 15.3h should have at least 7 feet of stall length and 3 feet of head area – 10 feet overall. In the past, a 7 foot tall trailer was considered extra tall.

Today, however, it isn’t unusual for trailers to be 7’4″ to 7’6″ tall. This height should be considered for any horse over 15.3h. There should also be enough room for the horse to lower its head to remove debris (hay dust and other contaminants in the trailer) by coughing, in order to keep his respiratory tract clear.

Make sure there are no sharp edges or protrusions anywhere on the trailer. (Check both inside and out.) Look at the floor boards. These should run the length of the trailer (vertically), not across the trailer (horizontally), and there should be good support underneath.

Floor mats and ramps should be non-slip. Ramps should not be steep. If it’s a step-up trailer, the horse should be able to walk out headfirst when unloading. (Step-up trailers can be dangerous when backing the horse out, because the horse can slip under the trailer and possibly receive a major injury, as a result.)

For safer trailering, rubber torsion suspension is available on almost all newer trailers. This type of suspension greatly reduces the amount of shock. As a result, the horse absorbs less shock through the floor of the trailer, thereby reducing stress to the horse. Also, if the trailer should have a flat tire, rubber torsion suspension allows the remaining three wheels to maintain the trailer until you can get to a safe place to change the tire.

Quick-release mechanisms on all tie rings, center dividers, chest bars, and butt bars are a must-have for safety and convenience. Construction material and all other parts should be strong enough to hold up to the largest, strongest horse you will be hauling. In fact, the strength of the trailer, not its weight, should be your first priority, if you have large horses to haul. How well will the trailer hold up to a panicky horse or in a traffic accident?

Now that you’ve taken into consideration the needs of your horse(s), it’s time to consider your own needs. Do you need a trailer for hauling horses long distances or short distances? If you’ll be frequently traveling long distances, will you need a dressing room for showing or a gooseneck for sleeping? Are you comfortable towing a large rig across the country? (Keep in mind that, once you’ve chosen the right horse trailer for you, you’ll need to buy a tow vehicle to pull the trailer.)

These are just a few of the considerations when purchasing a new horse trailer.

Neva Scheve is the author of The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer. She and her husband Tom are the owners of EquiSpirit Horse Trailers. Built for your horse’s safety.

http://www.equispirit.com

Author: Neva Scheve
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horses are living creatures with needs and emotions. But if you love horses, you don’t need to be told that. And like all living creatures, they need to be kept healthy if they are to be happy and successful. However, this world can be tough, and “nature red in tooth and claw” has a number of threats to horse health that a wise owner will want to watch out for.

Living conditions are the first consideration when it comes to horse health. If a horse is kept stabled, the stable will need to be kept free from damp and mould – and, to consider the opposite extreme, protected from excessive heat.
The straw or other bedding used to cover the floor of the stable should be mucked out regularly, preferably daily, and care should be taken that the new bedding is free from mould, damp or mildew. The stable should also be checked carefully to make sure that there are no sharp edges that a horse can cut itself on.

If a horse is kept in pasture, a shelter of some kind must be provided so the horse can find shade from excessive heat, or cover from rain. The field must also be checked to ensure that no poisonous plants such as nightshade or hemlock are growing in it or near it where the horse can eat them. Fencing should be checked to make sure that the horse cannot escape and that it has no sharp projections that a horse could cut itself on if it uses the fence to itch itself.

Correct feeding is another vital aspect of horse health. While it is obvious that malnutrition is bad for any horse, excessive or incorrect feeding can also be a threat to horse health. Colic can be caused by eating the wrong sort of food, such as under-ripe apples are notorious and eating too much can cause a horse to founder and run the risk of laminitis.

Stabled horses, in particular, require especial care for their diets. The right proportion of energy foods should be given according to the work the horse is performing. Fresh food, such as raw fruits and vegetables, will be a welcome addition to a horse’s diet, and it stands to reason that horse health as well as human health will benefit from the vitamins provided by these.

Horses, like other companion and working animals, need protection and medication to ensure that they are free from parasites. Veterinarians recommend that horses be wormed twice a year, preferably in autumn and spring, to ensure optimum horse health.

Mucking out stables and/or pasture frequently is another important part of controlling parasites. In this respect, keeping a horse at pasture can be an advantage, as a horse can be moved from field to field, thus ensuring that any parasites in the dung will die and/or be dispersed before the horse returns to that particular field again.

On a day to day basis, the most important part of horse health is regular interaction between horse and rider. Daily grooming, feeding and riding is not only the source of much pleasure for both horse and human, but it also gives the rider/owner a chance to make sure that their horse remains in good condition.

By interacting with a horse daily, it is very easy to see if the horse is showing any signs of poor health, such as poor coat condition, mucus in the eyes, scouring (diarrhoea), strange lumps or cuts. But if you love horses, you’ll be spending time with your horse, anyway.

For more information on horses, try visiting http://www.interestinghorses.com – a website that specializes in providing horse related tips, advice and resources including information on horse health

Author: Samantha Kay
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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A geriatric or senior horse is typically one that is twenty years old or older. They often begin needing specialized care around this part of their life, because things simply begin to wear out. Just like humans, things start to not work as well as they once did. Their eyes, teeth, joints, liver, gut and kidneys all begin to lose their functionality. These are the areas of the older horse that you must begin to pay more attention to.

Older horses may have a hard time breathing; they may also have a hard time walking if they are becoming arthritic. Not being able to walk as well means that it is harder to walk to the pasture and back to the barn to get a drink and then back out to the pasture. If your gut is wearing out, it becomes harder to absorb all of the nutrients that your body requires. This is where owners need to step in and make life a little easier.

You will first want to have your vet check your horses liver and kidney function. They will do some blood work on your horse and check to see if there are any diseases or if they are malfunctioning. If there are any problems, your veterinarian will set you up with medication and a new diet for your horse. Your vet will then check your horses teeth. They will file down any sharp edges and look to see if they are missing any. You should have their teeth checked at least once a year.

From there you will want to move on to your horses digestive tract. As your horse gets older, he will have less efficiency in his digestive system and may require supplements to make up for any nutrients that he is not able to absorb properly. Generally, switching your horse to a senior diet will help him immensely as the nutrients are easier for the horse to digest. Senior feeds also have higher amounts of nutrients as well so that your horse has ample time to digest them. The key is finding one that your horse likes and then sticking with it. You will also want to evaluate the hay that your horse is eating. The best forage for your horse is grass as it is seventy percent water and hay is ninety percent dry matter. Most horse owners rely on hay for their horses forage, but you may need to get better and higher-quality hay for your senior horse. Hay cubes and beet pulp are excellent sources of fiber and may be soaked in water for senior horses with teeth problems.

The horse should be on a regular deworming schedule for his whole life. This will prevent any parasite problems in the long run. You will want to be sure that your program that you used while the horse was a youngster is still efficient for him as a senior.

Most senior horses will begin losing weight, as they are unable to chew as well. By adjusting their diet, you should be able to help them begin gaining weight. Senior horses are, however, prone to choke. Choke is an esophagus impaction due to not chewing their feed and hay all of the way. For these horses, you will want to find ways to make them eat slower. Placing rocks in their feed trough will help to slow them down. You also never want to feed pellets to a horse that has a history of choke without adding water to them. So, some horses may require senior horse soup. You dont want your horse to gain too much weight, as their bones are becoming more brittle and they cannot withstand the extra weight.

Colic is another common problem in senior horses. Many horses will colic due to being unable to chew their food all of the way or if they dont drink enough water. Some senior horses will not make the necessary trips to the water trough if they have to walk all the way across a large pasture. You may consider placing other sources of water in the pasture to aid your senior horse and insure that he doesnt colic due to dehydration.

Proper trimming is also an absolute must for the senior horse. Their bodies are getting old and you dont want them tripping over their long feet. You will also want to ensure that the younger horses in the pasture are allowing the senior horses to eat and drink. Many young horses will push them to the side at the feed trough or not allow them to stand under the shade tree. Vaccinations must also be followed on a regular basis to keep them from developing any other unnecessary stresses on their old bodies.

By following these simple guidelines, you will be able to have a happy senior horse that is still a little spry and ready for his occasional carrot.

Author: Ron Petracek
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Pressure cooker

So what does it mean to float a horse’s teeth? I’m sure you’ve heard this a time or two (if you haven’t, sooner or later you will from another horse owner or from your vet), and if you’re like me, you imagined for the longest time what this could possibly mean and wondered what it involved.

To float a horse’s teeth certainly sounds funny, too.

Floating means to smooth or contour your horse’s teeth with a file (called a “float”). Unlike your own teeth, your horse’s teeth keep growing. At times, your horse’s teeth may develop sharp edges, making it difficult for her to chew food, hold a bit, or simply have pain and discomfort inside her mouth.

An adult horse may have between 36-44 permanent teeth. And just like humans, your horse gets two sets of teeth in her lifetime. Your horse starts out with temporary baby teeth and by age five, will most likely have her full set of permanent teeth.

The horse’s front teeth cut hay and grass, while the top and bottom cheek teeth grind the forage between the flat surfaces in a sideways motion. This grinding action breaks down the food into a pulp before swallowing which helps it to be digested better. If your horse is unable to grind down food all the way due to uneven teeth surfaces, the unchewed food will not be digested as well.

Most often, points develop on the upper cheek teeth toward the outside of the mouth next to your horse’s cheek. And on the bottom cheek teeth toward the inside of the mouth next to your horse’s tongue. These points can then cut into the cheek and tongue making your horse uncomfortable.

Though it may seem tedious and like a burden, you know having routine dentist check-ups contribute to the overall good health of your own teeth. Well, your horse is no different and deserves some of the same attention to her teeth as you give to yours. Confined horses or those that do not have the ability to graze all day are more prone to teeth overgrowth, as they are not naturally grinding their teeth all day to keep them smooth. Also, just like you, your horse can have other dental problems. A horse can have excessively worn teeth, loose or broken teeth, or infected gums.

One sign that your horse’s teeth may need to be floated is if she is consistently dropping food from her mouth and you start seeing signs of weight loss. Your horse may also exhibit behavior like head-tossing or opening her mouth frequently.

Possible horse dental problem indicators:

• Drops food from her mouth
• Exhibits difficulty in chewing
• Excessive salivation
• Loss of weight
• Undigested food particles in manure
• Head-tossing
• Excessive bit chewing
• Resisting having the bridle put on
• Difficult handling while riding
• Mouth odor
• Blood in the mouth
• Face swelling
• Nasal discharge

Because horses are adaptable creatures, even if they are having discomfort, some do not show any signs of dental problems. So don’t assume that if there are no symptoms, there are no problems.

Sharp teeth edges can hurt the inside of your horse’s mouth causing pain and creating sores on her tongue or cheeks. Your horse may show resistance when riding due to added pain from the bit pressing against the sores.

The vet or equine dentist will carefully file all your horse’s teeth that need smoothing to achieve a flat grinding surface between the upper and lower teeth. Having your horse’s teeth floated is well worth it so she digests her food better, is in better spirits, and makes riding more enjoyable for you both.

How often floating is necessary varies quite a bit from one horse to another. Some horses seem to have slower-growing teeth and may require floating only once every several years while others may require floating every few months. Even if your horse does not require her teeth to be floated often, it is still a good idea to have her teeth and gums examined once a year.

The procedure the vet typically uses to float your horse’s teeth is to first sedate your horse to make her relaxed. A special halter is put on with a rope thrown over a ceiling rafter or the equivalent in order to hold your horse’s head up. A mouth speculum is used to keep your horse’s mouth open. The vet will then either manually file your horse’s teeth using a rasp in a back and forth motion to flatten the high points, or may use a power tool. The whole procedure is quick and painless – taking about 15 to 20 minutes to complete.

If you’re like me, you cringe at the thought of someone filing away on your teeth with a rasp. You can imagine the shooting pain from the nerves in your teeth. Personally, the dentist can’t give me enough Novocain to make me feel comfortable before poking around or drilling in my mouth.

Unlike us, a horse’s nerves end close to the gumline, so there is no nerve where the tooth is being worked on, and therefore does not feel any nerve pain. We humans should be so lucky.

Author: Randall Holman
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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