Posts Tagged ‘saddle pad’

Horses that spook easily are dangerous to ride, they are a danger not only to themselves, but to others as well. Horses, being prey animals, have a strong fight or flight response, and when faced with a threatening situation, they deal with it by shying or even worse, bolting. When this happens the horse is usually classified as a problem horse and is considered dangerous. A seemingly harmless object such as a plastic bag or chicken coop can send the biggest of horses into a bolting frenzy.

There are some things you can do to desensitize your horse. This problem horse training is ideally started when the horse is young and in training as it will ensure a spook proof horse. Begin by lunging the horse for a few minutes to allow him to work off any excessive energy. Leave a halter and lead rope on the horse and approach him slowly with an old saddle pad or blanket allowing him to sniff it. Work at the horse’s pace and if he spooks or takes a step back, introduce the blanket again slowly until he is comfortable having it close to him.

Once he’s more at ease around the blanket, you can start moving it around and swinging it slowly. This will help desensitize the horse against flapping objects. The horse will most probably feel uncomfortable and may even shy, so be patient and work with him until he is accustomed to having the blanket swung around him.

The next step is to touch the horse with the swinging blanket, gently swing it onto his back and all over his body. Once the horse accepts the blanket on his head you’re halfway there! Place the blanket by his feet to help desensitize him to objects under his feet, this is an essential part of the desensitization exercise. That’s it; reward him profusely for a job well done!

The next desensitizing exercise you should try is to use a soft rope and work with it in much the same way as you did with the saddle pad or blanket. This teaches the horse to tolerate having a rope moving around his legs and body. Teaching your horse to tolerate this type of sensation can prove to be lifesaving if tack fails and the horse finds himself with bits of tack flying around him. This makes the horse much safer in dangerous situations when tack breaks. Throw the rope on the ground and in-between the horses’ legs and belly until he is no longer afraid of it. If the horse allows you to move the rope around his face and head, you’ve successfully completed this exercise.

Last but certainly not least is the plastic bag. Many, many horses are afraid of plastic bags and this exercise will help eliminate that fear of plastic bags in your horse. Show the bag to your horse and allow him to smell it, then tie it to a long lunge whip and wave it around while holding your horse on long lead rope. The horse will inevitably shy and try to get away from the terrifying object. Shake the bag around the horse until he becomes comfortable to having it around him, once this happens, touch him with bag all over his body. Move it around his body and under his belly, when he allows you to touch his head with it, you’re done.

Work at your horse’s pace and always end your training session on a positive note and with a lot of pace. Never force your horse into an uncomfortable situation or you may end up scarring him for life. Make sure you do these exercises regularly even after the horse has become desensitized to ensure the horse doesn’t fall back into his old familiar patterns.

Stal Amani is a top equestrian centre based in Belgium within 2 hours drive of most of the top jumping and dressage competitions in Europe. We regularly host national and international competitions. For more information please visit http://www.stalamani.com

Author: Josie Amani
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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I have a nice pair of navy blue, full seat riding breeches. Could I wear them to a horse show? My horse has a matching navy blue saddle pad. I would also be wearing black boots (with black half chaps), a black velvet helmet, and a polo shirt of some kind. This is a big local show and I am riding a green horse so we will only be competing in a W/T/C class. I have light and dark tan breeches but I lost a lot of weight and they’re too big! The horse is a flea-bitten gray. Thanks.

If this is going to be the first horse you own, make sure you know how much money you have to spend on the horse. A horse is an expensive animal to purchase, say nothing of the whole hobby of horse ownership. Read through the segments below to help you calculate the costs you can expect to incur. Research, then type up the costs of these products and services in your area. Make sure the total amount fits into your budget. Also, bear in mind the results you compile are likely to vary between states, regions and counties. In general, boarding, hay, and vet care are more expensive in bigger cities than in the country.

Initial Costs
The amount of money you spend on a horse depends on several factors, including the horse’s age and training. If you only want a pet for the pleasure of riding, expect to pay $1,600 to $1,800 almost anywhere you live. If you intend to show the horse, you will pay much more. The show horse is what makes the difference in cost depending on your locality. Equipment and supplies are another immediate expense. The short list includes a saddle, saddle pad, bridle, halter, and grooming equipment. Riding clothes are needed, too, if this is not just a pet horse. If you are going to board the horse on your property, and you don’t already have horse facilities, you need to build them beforehand. If this is all new to you, the cost of all this can really open your eyes.

Ongoing Expenses
Most people think the initial outlay for a horse and equipment is the largest expense they’ll have after becoming horse owners. The reality is that maintenance will cost much more over the life span of the animal. Expect to encounter regular expenses when owning a horse. The cost of each item and service in the list below will vary depending on where you live, so do your research. Call local veterinarians, farriers (the people who trim and put shoes on hooves), and tack and feed stores to determine how much each item will cost. Estimate high so you won’t be disappointed.

Boarding: If you don’t have your own horse property, you’ll need to keep your horse some place else. The most likely option is a commercial boarding farm. The stable where you take lessons might offer this service. When boarding, you have to pay a monthly fee for a stall, pasture, or a fenced enclosure. This fee usually includes food and stall maintenance, but may not include bedding.

Bedding: If your horse is boarded where bedding isn’t part of the plan, or you wish to keep him at home, you’ll have to provide shavings or another type of bedding, which you will need to clean and freshen every day.

Feed: If your horse lives with you, you need to provide feed, which includes hay and/or maintenance of your pasture. Don’t forget feed extras, such as pellets or food for special dietary needs

Dietary supplements: Feed supplements, which you can add to help your horse’s joints, attitude, or other issues, are popular and plentiful at tack and feed stores. If you plan to give one or more of these supplements to your horse, add this cost to your monthly estimate.

Veterinary treatment: Horses can get sick, too. When it happens to your household, you have to call out the vet. The problem might be minor or require minimal treatment. I might be major and require surgery. Vet bills can be very high, and they can rise quickly if a horse has a serious or a chronic problem.

Preventive veterinary care: All adult horses need regular preventive care. Vaccinations and de-worming usually necessary several times each year. Overgrown teeth are a common problem requiring filing at least once each year.

Shoes and hoof trimming: Horses that wear shoes require new ones every six to eight weeks. A farrier will still need to trim the hooves of the horse if you choose to have him remain shoeless.

Insurance: Many horse owners insure their animals for major medical, mortality, loss of use, and/or liability. It’s usually a good idea. Add the cost of premiums to your list.

Training and lessons: If you are a beginning rider, you will want basic lessons in these skills. Your horse needs to train right along with you. Training is especially necessary if you intend to show your horse. Lessons are usually weekly expenses.

Show expenses: If you plan to show your horse, you have to spend money on show clothes, tack (equipment for your horse), entry fees, and transportation.

Now comes the scary part. Add the total costs. You’ll quickly discover the shape and color of your horse future. The number may not look very cheerful, but too many that have preceded you have gotten their feet wet, not expecting to take a bath.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

If you already own a Bunn, always use Bunn coffee filters to prevent overflow and to remove all chances of a bitter or papery taste in your coffee.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Programmable Multi-cooker

Horse tack is the term used to describe all the items used to make a horse ready to be ridden. For most of us (who use the English style of riding), the tack consists of a saddle blanket, a saddle, a bridle and a girth. If you are just starting out, learning how to tack a horse is one of the most important lessons that you can learn (behind how to ride a horse).

Before you tack your horse up, you need to take a few precautions. The most important one is to tie your horse up. When you tie a horse up always use a quick release not or quick release snaps. We always say at the stables that it is better to have to catch a healthy horse than to take a trapped horse to the vet. Another basic safety point is to always wear a helmet and body protector when around your horse.

Now that you have the horse tied up then it’s time to start tacking your horse. Talk to your horse and brush it down. Doing this not only calms your horse but lets you check your horse over for any lumps or bumps that it might have picked up.

Once your horse is checked over, tied and you are already to begin. Take the reins and the top of the bridle in the same hand and put them over your right shoulder. Make sure that nothing is dangling on the ground that your horse can trod on.

Put the saddle together. If you haven’t done this already it is always best to get someone experienced to help (and of course read our guide to how to saddle a horse).

Once you have your saddle ready then it’s time to put your saddle pad onto your horse.

Now depending on the type of riding you are planning on doing the the saddle pad varies. For show hunting then the saddle pad is shaped like the saddle and just shows under the saddle. The white is outlined. For schooling you can use pretty much whatever pad you like. Square pads are very popular. Finally for dressage the saddle pad is square, the front of the pad fits the shape of the horses shoulders.

Once you have put the saddle on the horse in the correct manner, put the reins over the horses nech, remove the halter and slip it over the horses neck.

Put the bit back in the horses mouth after you have unbuckled the nose band of the bridal first.

Guide the bit into the horses mouth, making sure that you take care not to hit the horses teeth (or loose a couple of digits). If the horse resists opening their mouth then a cheeky trick is to slide a finger into the area on the gums that the bit rests on. If it is cold, remember to warm the bit before.

Slide the crown piece over the horses ears.

Nearly finished…

Attach the throat latch loosely as if it’s too tight then it can cut off the horses air supply. Like most things when tacking the horse, if you can’t slide few fingers between it then it is far too tight.

Attach the nose band in a snug fashion, again make sure you slide one finger between the band and the horses nose.

Now it’s time to get the right length for the stirrups. We always say before you jump on then make sure the stirrup loops come up to your armpit.

Buckle your helmet and it’s finally time to mount the horse.

If you are looking for great horses for sale, want to find out more about your favorite breed of horse or simply just want to look at pictures of horses (my favorite are the miniature horses) then Horse Searchers is the right website for you.

Updated daily with the latest horses of all breeds, shapes and sizes; it’s not hard to see why Horse Searchers is one of the fastest growing horse classifieds websites on the net.

Author: Paul William Faulkner
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Trail riding offers us the opportunity to see the world in a unique way, to enjoy the outdoors while enjoying the greatest sport on earth horseback riding. Not only is it good for people to get out, see beautiful scenery, it is also great for the horse to have a change of pace. Of all the equestrian activities, trail riding is probably what most horses would choose to do if they were allowed to make a choice on what work they do. Most horses seem to enjoy going down the trail.

Basic necessities for safe, enjoyable trail riding include the following:

A capable horse

A horse that is trained well enough to be safe riding out on the trail knows basic commands and is obedient under stress; doesnt panic easily

The horse is fit enough for the work asked of him youve done some basic riding and conditioning prior to going out on the trail

Tack that fits properly it doesnt matter if its English, western, endurance just so it fits your horse well, does not interfere with him being able to move freely, and fits you as a rider also so that you, too, are comfortable. If you use a breast collar or crupper, make sure its fitted properly so that it doesnt rub on the horses shoulders or between his legs. Use a saddle pad that provides enough cushion to protect the horses back but not one so thick and heavy that it creates a lot of heat under the saddle. Look through some good trail riding handbooks and tack catalogs for ideas and recommendations. A good rule to remember is to never, ever try out brand new tack or equipment on a long ride.

Tack and equipment that is safe. Dont have a back cinch that hangs way down several inches below the horses belly where a branch or weeds may get caught in it, or worse, the horses foot when navigating a steep downhill. Dont use a tie-down if you can avoid it a horse that lies down in water can easily drown by not being able to get up when wearing a tie-down. These are just plain dangerous for the trail. Use the least amount of stuff possible avoid gadgets leave the draw reins for arena work, the headsets, etc.

Shoes or other protective foot gear is important. Dont take a barefoot horse out on a rocky trail if he is not used to it. It takes a long time for stone bruises to heal, and your horse could easily suffer an abscess that will put him out of commission for weeks.

A capable rider

If youre brand new to riding, dont set out on the trail alone. Get some experience in the arena until youre comfortable that you can easily control your horse, that you will not panic if your horse gets a little spooky, and know your horse well enough to know how he reacts under new circumstances. Its never a good idea to go out alone on the trail anyway. Try to always go with a friend, for safetys sake. Generally its not the natural obstacles or critters out there that you have to worry about; more often, its the two-legged monsters that you have to watch out for.

Be fit to ride ride enough before you go on a trail ride so that you are fit enough to ride for a couple hours without feeling exhausted, sore, uncomfortable. Know your own limitations and dont over exert yourself. Trail riding is supposed to be fun, not wear you out and make you miserable. Hurting is no fun.

Wear safe, comfortable clothing. Like new tack, dont wear brand new boots or shoes, or tight jeans first time out. Murphys luck will have it youll have to walk a nice long distance for some reason (horse throws a shoe, whatever) and youll end up with blisters on your feet.

Safety helmets are highly recommended. Not only do they protect your head if you should fall off, but for trail riding they are wonderful you can skim under tree branches and not get scratched or have to worry about scraping your head. Its just good common sense to wear a safety helmet.

Take drinking water for the ride. As with any other outdoor activity in NM, you need to always avoid getting dehydrated. Carry along a water bottle or two always. There are lots of easy ways to pack water you can find water bottle holders that attach to the saddle, or you can carry them in a fanny pack, or camelback if youre going for a really long ride. I always preferred to carry a couple water bottles that I could balance in a fanny pack, easily accessible for me, no bouncing on the horse. Be careful about using large saddlebags filled with heavy items like water these can bounce on your horses loins and make him very sore in a very short time.

Be prepared use a cantle bag or similar to carry a rain poncho, small first aid kit, sunscreen, snacks, hoof pick.

Once youve discovered the pleasure of trail riding in small doses, you may be interested in trying some longer rides, camping out with your horse, maybe a competitive ride.

Competitive trail riding and endurance riding are both sports that demand a lot of both horse and rider. You have to spend a lot of hours in the saddle, riding lots of miles, preparing for the competition. These sports really test your skill as a horseperson as you go the distance, and your horses athletic ability and heart. When you have a good horse for a partner and a good trail to ride. When you are able to meet the challenge and finish the ride with a sound, happy horse that is ready to go out and do it all over again the next day, its an incredible feeling of accomplishment. Theres nothing like riding many, many miles to develop your skills as a rider. And theres nothing like spending hours in the saddle to really get to know your horse.

Regardless of whether you have an interest in competing, or simply want to ride for pleasure, its wonderful to have a fit, well-conditioned horse.

Recommended reading:

Trail Riding, by Rhonda Hart Poe

Go the Distance, by Nancy S. Loving, DVM

The Complete Guide to Endurance Riding and Competition, by Donna Snyder-Smith

Have Saddle, Will Travel, by Don West

Cross Train Your Horse, Books One and Two, by Jane Savoie

For the Good of the Horse, by Mary Wanless

For the Good of the Rider, by Mary Wanless

Endurance and Competitive Trail Riding, by Linda Tellington-Jones

Author: Ruth Bourgeois
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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You can start off by asking yourself some simple questions.

1. How long is my|your saddle?
2. Is your horse’s back short or long?
3. What is my preference on the look of my tack on my horse?

Size of Saddle:

Measure and find out the size of your saddle in length. Is it a barrel, roping, cutting, etc saddle? If you have a larger saddle such as a roping or cutting saddle then you will probably not want a saddle pad that is 28″ or 30″ in length. Your saddle may just barely fit on the saddle pad. For a barrel saddle don’t use a saddle pad longer than 32″ or 33″.

Does my horse have a long or short back?

A lot of people don’t think of this when choosing a saddle pad. If you have a short backed horse and decide to go with a saddle pad that is 34″ long – it may be too long for your horse. It will probably get in the way of the horses hindquarter movement. However things could be reversed as well. Using a short saddle pad on a long backed horse will allow part of his/her back to be exposed. It may look weird to you or other people. That is where this next section comes into play.

What is my personal preference of how my horse should look when tacked up?

Ultimately the decision comes down to your personal preference. What do you think looks good? Where do you think your saddle pad should end on your horse?

People have different styles and ways that they like their saddle pad, saddle, and horse to look. Some people may use a shorter (28″ or 30″) saddle pad on a short backed horse with a barrel saddle. On the same horse if a roping saddle is used they may get a little longer of a pad (33″) to compensate for the larger saddle. On a long backed horse if a roping saddle is used they may use a long (34″) pad. However if the same long backed horse is used and a barrel saddle they may use a long (32″ or 33″) pad to cover the horses back.

It boils down to your personal opinion, type and size of saddle, and your horse. There really isn’t a “correct” answer to this question. There are only opinions.

Here is a link with a variety of western saddle pads to help you in your decision.

Horseback riding is very pleasant but it’s important to take safety measures so you and your horse will be protected from injury. One of the things you should do when you ride a horse is wear a helmet. A helmet should fit correctly so it will stay on your head if you would fall. Equestrian helmets are specifically made to protect the back of your head. Make sure your helmet meets appropriate safety standards and is ASTM/SEI certified. The chance of head injury is much lower when you wear a proper helmet.

Well I’ll explain to you what I did starting out. The very first thing I did was go to the nearest book store & purchased 5 to 6 books to read. Everything from horse health care, stall cleaning, horseback riding, techniques and anything else that had to do with horsemanship for beginners. I read all the books I purchased & also watched a few videos. I recommend buying yourself some natural horsemanship videos, you can find them all over the internet. After doing much research I went and searched for someone that trained horses for a living. I felt I was ready and confident enough to take on the task of actually getting my hands dirty and doing some of the things I read about and watched on video.

Saddling your horse needs to be done as gently as possible so you and your horse both stay protected and safe. To protect your horses back, you need to put a saddle pad on first. Then, put the saddle in the middle of the pad so it’s directly over your horse’s spine. Your horse should feel comfortable. Putting a saddle on your horse roughly can cause him to suddenly run and injure you.

Be careful not to let the buckles hit your horse’s legs. The girth or cinch needs to be secured once the saddle is situated correctly. Do this on the off-side first and be very careful the girth doesn’t hit the legs of your horse. Watch that your horse doesn’t kick you while you’re adjusting his saddle.

Mounting and dismounting can cause your horse to respond dangerously. This is because your entire weight goes to the side of your horse and causes uncomfortable pressure on his back. The saddle may also pull to the side. It may be easier to mount or dismount if someone holds your horse.

Riding boots

Riding boots in equestrian competition are of two types:

Jodhpur boots with a lace or zip design at the front that cover the ankles and are comfortable.

Long riding boots that cover the legs and which are in various styles available to suit all riding disciplines.

Besides these, there are body protectors that are worn on top of the clothes. They are made from shock absorbing material. The BETA Level 3 standard is recommended so that you are able to compete in all competitions and in different levels. Body Protectors will help to reduce the impact in case of falling and if a horse kicks.

You should take proper care of your competition clothing, whether it is the daily wear or the one meant for the show. Your show attire should be clean, pressed and spotless. Your attire should adhere to the competition you intend to participate in. In the initial stage you need not get all the equestrian competition clothing, the riding hat, body protector and boots are the most important. However, later as you progress to be a experienced rider or competitor, you need to have access to all the required competition clothing. Clothing should always fit well and be comfortable.

It is vital to know about all the types of dress from the beginning, even if you can’t afford to buy it all at once, because each item is designed to bring you safety when you need it most. Since equestrian competition clothing is specially designed for both the safety and comfort of the rider, these clothes are a necessary expense when you start to take your riding seriously. However, for your daily chores and work in the yard you should still keep wearing your favourite hard-wearing and inexpensive clothing. You don’t have to look like you’re competing all the time

Resource Author Francisco Rodriguez H.
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At first, tacking up can seem daunting, but if you have a set routine, you’ll quickly get the hang of it and your horse will to. Having your horse secured with a set of crossties that fasten to the halter from opposite sides at about normal head height is really helpful as this leaves the rider with both hands to work with the tack.

Don’t be in rush to tack up. Take the time to check your horse over first to make sure he hasn’t incurred any injuries or other problems. Slide your hand down each of the legs, pick up the hooves and be sure to pick out all the dirt, mud or debris using a hoof pick. This will give you a chance to check over your horse’s foot for any problems that could cause lameness under saddle. After checking the legs and hooves it is time to brush the back and sides. Give your horse a good scrub with a stiff brush to get rid of all of the built up hair and dirt, especially around the saddle area where it can cause particular irritation.

Since the halter is securing the horse to the crossties, you may want to start with the saddle. Place the saddle pad or blanket straight down on the horses back, just on the highest point of the withers and slide it straight back a fraction of an inch to position it. This ensures that the hair is all flat, if you have to reposition the blanket lift it off the horse, smooth down the hair again with a brush or your hand, then start over.

With the saddle pad or blanket in place, pick up the saddle with your left hand on the horn or pommel and the left hand under the back skirt or the cantle, depending on the saddle type. After securing the stirrups (you don’t want to get clunked in the head), place the saddle in onto the saddle pad just behind the withers. The saddle should be placed in the natural depression that occurs on a horse’s back. If you have a western style saddle, reach under the horse’s belly and grasp the cinch, make sure it is straight and tighten the saddle from the left side. With an English saddle you may need to walk around to the right side and affix the cinch, then move back around to the left to tighten it.

Most find bridling a horse the most challenging as many horses have learned to evade and throw their heads to avoid the bit. This can be corrected by slow and gentle movements, so always move with a purpose and don’t become excited or angry with the horse. Unbuckle the throatlatch and noseband if there is one, then standing in the same direction as the horse on the left side, hold the bit in your left hand and the top of the bridle in your right. Bring the browband of the bridle above your horse’s head with your right hand, thereby positioning the bit below the lips. Gently insert the bit by raising the top up and over the ears. Position both the bit and the headstall in the right place, then latch the throatlatch and noseband. Banging your horse’s teeth with the bit is no way to create a willingness to be bridled.

Mounting the horse is the opposite of dismounting and should be done in one fluid movement. With the reins in your left hand, grasp your horse’s mane in your right hand. Using the right hand to hold the stirrup, place your left foot in the stirrup, swing your body up and your right leg up and over the back of the horse, gentle sitting down into the saddle. Put the right foot in the right stirrup and you are all ready to go.