Posts Tagged ‘saddle and bridle’

When you are carrying your horse in a trailer, should you lcarry the horse without the saddle and bridle? Would it harm your horse if you did?

Horses, like dogs, are animals that can do considerable harm when they have bad behavior problems. Unlike dogs, however, who can only inflict harm by biting, horse behavior problems which can hurt people include biting, kicking, or striking out when being handled, and rearing, bucking, or bolting when being ridden. So it is important to have a well-trained horse, especially for youngsters or even adults who are new to the sport of horseback riding.

What do you do, then, if your horse has any, or even many, of these bad habits? The first thing to do is have a thorough check-up. Start by pin-pointing when the bad behavior occurs, or what triggers it.

Bad behavior when under saddle:

Misbehavior in horses may indicate that they are in pain and want to be left alone. If your horse misbehaves mostly when under saddle, then the first thing to check is the fit of your saddle. If the saddle does not fit the horse’s back, it can cause pinching and back pain, causing the horse to act out. An expert horse trainer may be able to assist in assessing your saddle and bridle fit, or you may want to hire a professional saddle fitter, because, sad to say, some trainers may not have that expertise.

If the saddle fits good, then check the bit in the horse’s mouth. If the fit looks good, have a veterinarian check your horse’s teeth. There may be a tooth problem that is causing the discomfort.

If your tack checks out OK, then the next step is an overall veterinarian examination to rule out other issues that could be causing pain when your horse is ridden. For example, if there is arthritis in a joint, the extra weight of a saddle and rider may be enough to cause pain.

OK, your tack is not the problem and the horse has no issues that the vet can detect. Then ask a trainer to assess the way you ride. Do you pull excessively on the horse’s mouth? Do you bounce too much in the saddle? Over time, these, too, can cause a horse to say “I’ve had enough!” If the horse is new, maybe he had bad experiences with previous owners and needs to learn that you will not hurt him. All these things need to be well thought out.

But what if your horse misbehaves when not being ridden?

Misbehavior when being handled:

Horses that try to bite or kick at people when they are being groomed, led or otherwise handled may still have pain issues. Again, the first step is a thorough veterinarian examination.

Is the horse grouchy all the time, or just at certain times? If you have a mare, perhaps she bites and kicks only when in heat. Many mares have no symptoms of being in heat, while others let the world know. If your horse has severe symptoms of heat, an ultrasound might be advised to rule out ovarian cysts. If there are none, there is medication, although expensive, which prevents mares from coming into heat.

Does your horse misbehave while being groomed? Again, if the vet check does not reveal a physical problem, perhaps your horse has very sensitive skin. Just be extra gentle in currying and brushing.

Re-training:

When all physical causes of your horse’s bad behavior have been ruled out, then it is time to accept the fact that your horse has training issues. The horse may have been abused by previous owners, or he may simply be a bossy horse who does not accept you as its leader. The horse may have a fearful personality, and behaves badly out of fear. There are numerous possible causes, but to fix them only three things are required: gentleness, firmness and patience.

At this point you may want to find a professional horse trainer. Be very selective! Your horse already has issues. You don’t want a trainer whose methods will only cause more distrust. Anyone can call themselves a horse trainer, so ask around, talk to horse people you trust, and watch any potential trainer work to see how they do the job.

If you have the experience, time and patience to attempt re-training your horse on your own, then invest in some training videos or books. You can borrow ideas from various sources. It can be very rewarding to work one-on-one and develop a strong partnership with your horse.

Pamela Griffin was raised around horses and rode at such a young age that she does not remember learning, although she does have a vague memory of her first fall off a horse! She’s ridden Western, English, and shown in dressage, but currently enjoys the simplicity of riding in the Arizona desert on her Missouri foxtrotter. She writes various articles as an amateur horse owner with years of horse ownership experience.

Author: Pamela Griffin
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Many folks who like to ride have the attitude that all they need to do is slap a saddle and bridle on a horse, get on and go, and that the ride will be wonderful. Sometimes it turns out that way, but often not. “Passenger” types of riders are at the mercy of their horse who may or may not be capable of being in control and taking care of its rider as well as itself. There are way too many stories of mishaps that should have never happened had the riders been aware of what was coming and did something before it happened to avoid a bad situation.

There are some babysitter type horses in the world and they are invaluable in handling situations without the help of, and sometimes in spite of, their rider; but by far the majority of horses need some competent help and direction from their riders to make the ride as enjoyable and safe as it can be. If the rider isn’t capable, the horse is in charge, and that may or may not turn out well. An instructor I once worked with called that kind of situation “sneaking a ride”. Not really a safe way to do things, that’s for sure.

On the other hand, there are riders who are so busy micromanaging their horses that the horse isn’t allowed responsibility for anything on its own. That’s not the best situation possible either.

So how does one assure that the rider and horse will be working together as a team instead of leaving it all up to one or the other? A rider who wants to be more than an uneducated, vulnerable passenger needs to spend some time learning to be a competent, educated horseman. It’s a never-ending journey, but one that will be very rewarding to both human and horse.

To start the education, an understanding of horse psychology is important. Horses don’t think like humans. They are prey animals whose very survival depends upon being aware of its surroundings and keeping away from things they perceive as dangerous. If riders are aware of that and learn to read their horse’s early reactions to things, they can help the horse by supporting it, redirecting it, and providing trusted leadership when the horse needs it instead of having to deal with something after the fact of whatever the horse did on its own.

An example would be of a trail ride where one horse suddenly kicks another coming up behind or beside it. It didn’t happen without warning, but the warning and reason might have been totally unrecognized or ignored by the riders. Horses have pecking orders within their herd, and if one is riding with strange horses, sometimes the horses feel like they need to establish their place in the new group, especially if they are unconfident horses or ones who don’t trust their riders to take care of them.

When a strange horse gets too close to a horse like that, there will be signs such as hard, unblinking eyes, ears that go back, maybe some tail swishing, or other horsie threats to warn the other horse (and hopefully the riders). It is the riders’ responsibilities (both riders need to be paying attention) to recognize and do something about the threat before it becomes a problem and too late to really respond to. Reacting after the promised kick is too late to do anything effective about it.

Instead of reacting after the fact, the rider on the horse who is making the threats should alert the upcoming rider to steer clear. He or she can also distract the threatening horse by asking it to do something more than just go straight down the trail. This might be a request for the horse to bend its head slightly towards the offending horse so that the hindquarters will move away. It could be asking the horse to move down the trail while doing a move such as haunches in, shoulder in, or some other request that requires the horse to move parts of its body independently of other parts.

Hopefully, the riding partners you have are also working on being horsemen rather than mere passengers, and your rides will be more and more enjoyable rather than putting it all up to chance and hoping your horse will do all of the taking charge and taking care of you.

I’ve heard it said that there are four stages of horsemanship:

1.unconsciously incompetent–don’t even know what they don’t know

2.consciously incompetent–aware that they don’t know but haven’t absorbed how to do it all yet

3.consciously competent–know what to do and do it when they are focused and paying attention

4.unconsciously competent–aware and automatically do what they need to do

It’s the fourth stage that we should all be aspiring towards in our horse endeavors so that we won’t be sneaking rides and be at the mercy of our horses who may instead need our support and help.

Bonnie and her husband own Gemara Farm Foxtrotters located in Barnesville, Georgia. They currently have nine fox trotters of their own and practice natural horsemanship with them, and Bonnie coaches others. There are usually some fox trotters available for sale. http://www.gemara.homestead.com

Author: Bonnie Martin
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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OK, you think you may have found the right horse. You went through all the check points in part one, you have made arrangements at the nearest horse stables that meet the requirements that were discussed in part two, or you have made arrangements for a facility at home providing either a stall or a lean-to (a two or three sided building with a high roof and preferably built in hay racks). Remember, all horses need to have shelter from the elements. Hopefully whichever place you will be keeping your horse, there will be a considerable amount of room not only for your horse to graze, but where he or she can run and play and have some fun; preferably with other horses. But, before you pass over your hard earned dollars, I want to give you just a few more things to consider, hence – Part Three.

What kind of mannerisms did the horse display when having the saddle and bridle put on them? Were they putting there ears back, or acting like they wanted to step on the person trying to tack them up? Were they moving back and forth, acting nervous or even starting to break out in a sweat? Were they difficult when the bridle was being put on them, or were they interacting, being friendly, wanting attention and not seeming to care that they were about to be ridden? When you started to mount the horse, did they stand there quietly and wait for their first command, or did they want to walk off quickly?

Did they do what you asked or was it a struggle to get them to go forward or turn around? Is the horse trying to take control and go wherever they want to go, or are you on an animal that really wants to please you? If you are saying yes to these negative inquiries, then this may not be a horse for a beginner. The quieter and more agreeable a horse behaves, the better a prospect that animal will be for a first time horse owner. He or she will enrich your life, and warm your heart with pleasant experiences that come with owning a horse. As your experiences grow, you then can step up to meet the challenges of other horses. Horse behavior can sometimes be compared to that of a child. So, if you have children you will understand how to deal with them.

Before making that final commitment, it is to your advantage to ride the horse for more than just a minute or two. Make sure that you walk, trot and canter preferably more than once. Some horses seem to be fine at first but as time passes with you on their backs, they sometimes can change into a “horse of a different color”. It is not unusual, and actually recommended, that you come back a second time to ride the horse again. That way you have something to compare their behavior to. Meaning if the horses’ behavior was very much the same the second time you rode him or her without much variance, then he or she probably is the real thing. Remember that this animal may possibly be with you for the rest of their life. You want a horse that you will really enjoy and who really enjoys you. As I said before horses are social animals, but it is important to understand that they are emotional ones too.

Unfortunately, there will always be horses that exhibit bad behavior, and some, very bad behavior. My experience tells me that a lot of bad behavior is usually the result of human error. That is why I am here trying to talk to you, and hopefully in the future, you will be talking to me. It is so easy to buy a horse, bring that animal home and find that you have an animal that is out of control, and you don’t know what to do about it. Horses have a tendency to try to take advantage of beginners. Trust me, they know! All they have to do is take one look at you, the way you approach them and ride them. Your best defense is knowledge. I am not trying to scare you, I am trying to educate and help you to understand that the more knowledge you have about horses, the more success you will have with them. Please don’t be afraid to enter into the wonderful world of horses. It is a fun place to be and learning about horses is the best part as it is never ending. Most of the riding horses out there are sound, quiet animals. They have a lot to offer an owner who wants to know, love, and care for them, as they will gladly return the favor.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison,that will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my YouTube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Grooming your horse is an essential part of good horse care. Your horse will enjoy a good groom, and you will be able to see if there are any new marks, cuts or rubs on your horse. It is important to give your horse a good groom before you ride as to ensure that there is no dirt around his saddle and bridle areas as well as having clean legs if you are putting boots or bandages on. Having a well groomed horse makes you look very professional at shows and proves to everyone you have pride in your horse!

Your grooming Kit should contain:

1. Rubber Curry Comb
2. Body Brush
3. Metal Curry Comb
4. Dandy Brush
5. Hoof Pick
6. Hoof Oil and Brush
7. Mane and Tail Comb and Brush
8. Shampoo, Bucket and Sponge
9. Sweat Scraper

Each of the above brushes have a specific use and each one should be used accordingly.

1. Rubber Curry Comb – Use this on his body and neck in round circles. This will loosen all the dead hair and skin in his coat and get rid of tough mud if he has rolled in the field. Do not use this brush on his bones (face, spine or Legs) it will hurt him. This brush also acts as a massage for your horse. It will relax him which makes him feel good. It will also encourage his skin to produce natural oils which will make his coat look fabulous.

Tip: Groom your horse every day and you will not only have a happy horse but the best looking coat ever!!!

2. Body Brush – Use this brush his face, neck, body and upper legs in long strokes going with the direction of the hair. This will remove all the dead skin and hair that you have loosened with your curry comb.

Tip: flick your wrist at the end of your stroke – this will removes more dirt and hair!

Tip: If your horse is really muddy – just hose or sponge him off. You may have to dry his saddle area before riding but this could save you lots of riding time!!!

3. Metal Curry Comb – This is NOT made for use on your horse ever! This is to clean your body and dandy brushes while grooming. To clean your brushes while grooming simply run your body brush across the metal curry comb and watch the dirt and hair fly!!!

Tip: Keep your Metal Curry dry and clean – this will stop it from rusting and it will be more effective for cleaning your brushes. (You can wash in water but dry immediatley after)

Tip: Hold your Metal Curry Comb in your left hand while using your body brush in your right hand and scrap your body brush every third stroke or so – aim at getting quicker – but be careful not to loose QUALITY in
brushing!

4. Dandy Brush – This brush is a hard bristle brush and should not be used on anything other than legs. Use it gently because it can hurt but you can be a little more vigorous with this brush especially if your
horse has had a mud bath!

5. Hoof Pick – Your Hoof pick is used to clean your horses hooves, which is one of the most important things you can do and should be done at least once a day whether you ride or not. To use your hoof pick, pick
up your horses leg and locate the frog. Run the hoof pick from heel to toe along side the frog. Be careful not to puncture the frog. Dirt can seriously stuck on your horses hoof so do be careful of yourself and your
horses foot.

Tip: If your horse is kept in a stable then hoof picking should occur at least twice a day.

Tip: If your horse’s foot is smelly or is ‘chalky’ this could be due to wet ground. If the hoof is smelly it could be thrush, and if the hoof if chalky it could be seedy toe. Some iodine spray from the local
horse/produce store can help. If your horse is visibly sore then you will need to call your vet or farrier.

6. Hoof Oil and a Brush – Hoof oil does not have to be used every day, unless your farrier has specified. It protects the hooves from becoming dry and brittle. it provides moisture which some horses need more than others. Apply with a small paint brush. Hoof Oil is different from Hoof Black. Hoof Black is used at shows to blacken horses hooves – this dries the hoof out and should not be used often. It would be a good
idea to use hoof oil after using hoof black to replenish moisture in the hoof.

7. Mane and Tail Comb and Brush – The mane and tail comb is used to pull your horse’s mane and top of his tail. This keeps his mane and tail tidy.

To pull your horses mane correctly is hard and takes practice but is much better than shortening your horse’s mane with a pair of scissors! When you use your pulling comb – brush through the hair, Hold the longer bits between your fingers and push the rest up as if you were teasing his mane. Next wrap the longest hair around the comb and while still holding the comb and the hair pull down sharp and quickly pulling the hair out. Only grab a small amount of hair when pulling, this wont hurt your horse.

The brush (usually just a hair brush) is used just to run through the mane and de-tangle your horses tail. When you brush his tail, grab little sections at a time and start from the bottom and work your way
up to his tail bone. Be careful as some horses do not like their tails brushed let alone the top pulled!

Tip: If your horse is getting annoyed then leave it for the next day. Don’t leave pulling a very long mane until the day before a competition, if you do need to stop you will only have half a mane pulled!

Tip: When brushing his your Horses’ tail, spray some show shine in his tail. This helps de-tangle his tail with very little breakage of the hair. All horses have different kinds of tails, so work with what you
have and keep your horses tail healthy and shiny!

8. Shampoo, Bucket and Sponge – Obviously these are used when you want to wash your Horse. To wash your horse, soak him with a hose from head to tail. Make sure you wet his mane and tail but be careful of his ears. Have soapy water in your bucket ready to go with your sponge and body brush in the water. Scrub his body with the body brush and use the sponge on his face being careful of his ears! Wash his tail (if he lets you). Ensure all the dirt or mud is off and then hose all the shampoo off your horse. Make sure that there is no soap left on him! This will make his skin itch.

Tip: Try not to wash him too often as this will wash away all the natural oils that are protecting your horses skin. Your horses coat will loose its shine if you wash him to often and he may also get dandruff or itchy skin!

Tip: A good groom will always be better than constant washing with shampoo.

9. Sweat Scraper – The Sweat Scraper is used after you have washed your horse. Scrap down his body to get all the excess water off. This will help him get dry quicker. Only use this tool on his body, not his legs
or head!

Extra things that you can have in your horses grooming kit are:
1. Moisturizer
2. Show Shine (for his tail)
3. Iodine / Antiseptic cream.

This is not an extensive list. You should also have a first aid kit at your horses stable or in your car if he is in a field. I will go through What a first aid kit should have in a later article.

If you intend to Show your horse you will need many more items. This is just a basic kit to keep your horse happy in the field!

If your horse is lame or has any serious cuts or injuries, please call a professional to help you. Once you are more experienced you will learn to tell when you need the vet or farrier.

Author: Christine Turley
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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