Posts Tagged ‘Pasture’

Unfortunately not every horse owner has the luxury of allowing their horses the benefit of unlimited pasture or turnout time. Horses kept in stalls most of the day can sometime develop a vice such as weaving. When a horse weaves he or she is standing in place but weaves its head and neck back and forth as it rocks from side to side. This can cause stress on the horse’s legs and may cause lameness to occur. Sometime horses that weave can lose weight or become physically exhausted caused by their weaving. The horses do not have a problem but are responding to a problem instead.

Behaviors such as weaving are usually only seen in horses where there environments are bare with no access to grazing forage or horses in confinement with little or no exercise. The horse has a problem it can’t resolve and has no control over the situation. The horse simply responds to its situation by weaving. There have been recent studies in the United Kingdom for horses with this particular behavior. The studies have discovered that placing a mirror in the horse’s stable the horse no longer feels isolated. A specially designed stable mirror is a simple solution.

The study had a high success rate fairly quickly. Research continues to discover if this solution is long term or not. The best solution for the problem is still social interaction with other horses and exercise but this is not always available. In such situations a stable mirror could be the solution. If you choose to try a stable mirror make sure it has been specially designed and constructed specifically for this purpose. Acrylic and glass mirrors can break and injure your horse making them a danger. Highly polished stainless steel mirrors are the best choice.

If a horse does not like other horses and behaves aggressively toward them it could have the same reaction to the mirror. Using a stall mirror can have positive effects for weaving horses rather quickly but with some horses it could take a period of time. Mirrors incorrectly positioned or of the wrong size may cause problems for some horses also. The choice is ultimately up to the horse whether to use the mirror or not.

For other useful and practical information for the horse owner, please go to http://www.wcf-ltd.com/horse

Author: Fran Mullens
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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We have 5 nubian goats (1 buck, 4 does) and I want to get a quarter horse but I can only manage one horse, could I put the female goats to pasture with the horse for companionship? I will probably be getting a mare. Would she be OK with the goats?

None of our does have horns, I don’t know if that would be a factor or not.

I always thought that it was safest to put your horse in a barn if it’s a really big storm. Is that true? If not, should you just leave them in the pasture with a shelter in it?
I don’t mean a hurricane. Just a big storm. I don’t have a horse of my own, but I’ve seen people do both and their horses were fine. I think I’ve decided that putting them in a barn would be better. Thanks!

Buying a horse is buyer beware. Not to make you frightened, but it is your responsibility to make sure the horse you choose is what you expected you were getting. Check all claims made about an animal out for yourself.

To start with, take someone you know who knows horses. If you don’t know anyone who will volunteer their time, consider paying a trainer or riding instructor for their time as it will be money well spent. There is so much to take in when viewing a prospective horse that many eyes alone will give a more accurate picture. Different people will ‘see’ different things. A beginner may see an affectionate good looking animal. An experienced horse person may observe an arthritic joint and a tendency towards pushiness.

Also on a general note, take lots of pictures. Consider making notes. If you have particular questions in mind, write them down beforehand and note the answers when you ask. This way you’ll cover everything and remember a lot.

Health. Although the domain of health is for the experts, look for a general impression of wellness. In a well lit place, is the coat shiny and smooth to the touch? Are ribs showing? Does he have a pot belly? Are the hooves broken, cracked or poorly cared for? Is the horse alert or half asleep? Are the eyes bright and clear? The ears scanning for sounds?

Temperament. How is this horse around other horses? Watching him being walked past other horses as he is brought in from the pasture or out from the stable will give you and idea of how he relates to other horses. Does he kick or bite? This might be forgivable when directed at other horses, but not at humans. Do not buy a horse with bad manners.

Training. Ask for and watch the horse being caught, led, tied and groomed, including having all hooves picked out. Have a demonstration of the horse being put on a trailer. Watch the horse being saddled and mounted. In short, ask to see everything demonstrated that you’d do with this horse yourself. How does he behave?

Riding. Let the owner ride first and put the horse through all it’s paces and special skills. How smooth are the horse’s responses? Are there any signs of resistance or fighting? Head tossing, leaning on the bit, laziness, tugging?

Your Turn. Ask your knowledgeable friend to try the horse out and then you have a go too. Watch for how the horse reacts to you. Go back to the basics and try all the everyday stuff as well. Leading, grooming, hoof handling, saddling up.

Paperwork. If this horse is a registered breed, ask to see the papers.

If the horse does not behave, that’s kicking, biting, rearing, bucking, bolting etc then don’t buy it. Did you hear that? No matter how stunning you think this horse may be! Don’t buy it. Yes you want to feel a strong commitment to your animal AND you also want a well-behaved animal, especially if this is your first horse. Don’t settle on a gorgeous looking bucker. It’s not worth it, and the well behaved ones come in ‘stunning’ too.

It can be worth making a second visit. Ask the questions you forgot the first time. Repeat the same questions from the first time. Do the answers match? Is the horse behaving in the same manner?

Phil Tragear
http://www.HorseTrainingSuccess.com
All the questions you’ve asked, answered.

About the Author
Phil is author of the comprehensive book ‘Horse Training Success’, full of answers to the most asked horse training questions. Stop by http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com for a huge selection of information regarding common problems, training of horses, equine psychology, how to get the best behavior and so much more!

Please feel free to use this article on condition that you maintain a live link to the http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com website, acknowledge that the content is Phil Tragear 2006, and keep this paragraph included!

Author: Phil Tragear
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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A good photograph portrays your horse in his best possible light. A bad photograph, by contrast, draws attention to every fault, no matter how insignificant, and sometimes even exaggerates those faults!

Whether you are advertising your horse because he is for sale or advertising his recent show ring accomplishments, knowing how to photograph your horse correctly is a skill you must develop. If you derive income from your horses getting good photographs of them to put in front of the public is absolutely integral!

So, how do you take good photographs of your horse? Well, the first thing you should know is that it takes a little bit of practice. You shouldn’t expect to load your camera, take a few rolls, and be Robert Vavra over night! However, if you follow the following tips you’ll be shooting great pics of your horse in no time.

o Film matters! That’s right, use good-quality film such as Kodak or Fuji, and you’ll see it really does make a difference. If you are using a 35 mm format opt for 200 ASA. Going digital? The higher the pixels the better.

o Pick the right day. A bright day is good, but pick a day that isn’t too sunny. Too much sun will create dark shadows, and can be particularly problematic if you are shooting a dark horse. If you have no choice but to shoot on a sunny day, use a flash to eliminate shadows. It sounds counterintuitive, but it really does work!

o Prepare your horse. Now I know you are not going to stand him up hairy and dirty, but in addition to good grooming you might want to take some extra steps to ensure your horse looks his best. If appropriate to the discipline in which he participates, braid his mane and oil his hooves. Make sure his coat and his tail are shiny and well-brushed.

o Pick a uncluttered background. A natural background such as a field, woodland, or pasture is a good choice. The barnyard or driveway, no matter how neat and clean, is not a great choice because of the stuff that is bound to be in the background. You want the viewer to be wowed by your horse, not your new Cadillac Escalade. Look at the details before you click! Sounds crazy, but how many amateur photographs have you seen that depict horses with pitchforks growing out of their heads? As improbably as it sounds, I bet at least one, right? It bears repeating–check the background!

o Make sure tack is clean. If you photograph your horse in his bridle or saddle, make sure that both have been recently scrubbed. For that matter, anything your horse wears in a photo should be squeaky clean. That goes for the rider and handler, too!

o Enlist the help of a knowledgeable horse person. You can’t take pictures and position the horse too, so you’ll need some help. It’s best if the person who helps you knows how to pose a horse to his best advantage.

o The angle and position of the horse are key. For a full body shot, stand the horse with both front legs together and one hind leg slightly behind the other. To minimize parts looking too large or too small, focus on the middle of the horse, and do not shoot from too high or too low. Make sure the horse looks alert with bright eyes and both ears forward. Horse not cooperating? Have a friend make some noise (outside the frame, of course!) to get your horse’s attention.

o Get the right action. If you are taking shots of your horse in action, you’ll want to capture his power and impulsion. If your horse is trotting or cantering, try to capture him with his leading leg extended.

o Stay away from the front and rear. Photos from the side come out much nicer than photos taken head on or from the rear, which almost always accentuate unwanted things and make them look, well, HUGE!

o Keep clicking! While skill is most certainly involved, some of the best horse photographs are lucky. That’s right. Don’t wait for the perfect moment. Just keep clicking and you are sure to get a shot that shows your horse at his best!

Ron Petracek – Idaho Raised Horseman, Equine Article Directory HorseChitChat.com Looking for more equine information or services? Try our vast network Click here => http://www.equinefieds.com/network.php

Author: Ron Petracek
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Owning a horse is a great opportunity and one that comes with a hefty weight of responsibility. Unfortunately many owners don’t think before they leap into purchasing a horse, resulting in a negative experience for both the horse and the owner. Even owners that have experience with the privilege of horse ownership may sometimes find it is a bit overwhelming.

The following are some basic strategies and tips for horse owners and especially potential horse owners to consider to make the experience positive and healthy. By avoiding these common pitfalls your relationship with your horse will be much better both short and long term.

The Right Horse for the Job.

Many horse owners make the mistake of buying a horse out of emotion. Perhaps it is that beautifully marked yearling or the grand champion that has just come on the market that becomes your “must have” horse. While both of these horses may be a good choice, they both may also be horrible choices as well. It is essential to have someone that knows horses with you to make a purchase and consider what you want the horse for before becoming an owner.

Horses have natural abilities and things that they aren’t so good at. While breeding does definitely factor in, there are going to be some horses that just aren’t suited for the type of riding you want to do regardless of their lineage, breed characteristics or how their dam or sire performed. Taking an honest look at the level of skill required to ride the horse or provide training in relation to your skill as a rider is a very important step. Never take on a horse that is more horse than you can handle or that you feel comfortable in riding. This almost always results in a horse for sale or a horse left out in the pasture with no interaction at all.

Priorities: Is The Horse At The Top?

If you aren’t committed to making your relationship with your horse a priority in your life then horse ownership is not a good idea. The owner has to make the effort, every day, to interact with the horse. This can include cleaning stalls, grooming, feeding and of course riding. Training that includes the basics as well as more advanced levels if you want to enhance your skills requires practice, a bond of trust with your horse and a development of a team mentality.

Specific types of training such as horse gymnastics training can be used to help develop these skills and this teamwork. However, the owner must be prepared to learn as well, you can’t have someone else train your horse, you have to be the one to work with the horse and learn the aids and riding techniques.

Long Term Commitment

Owning a horse is not a short term commitment. Horses can live to be twenty plus years, and will need to stay active, engaged and cared for throughout their entire life. Knowing that you are willing and able to commit to these magnificent animals as both a rider and an owner for their entire life is essential before bringing one home.

Keeping your horse health with the correct food, shelter, exercise and routine vet care is also important. Not only does the ownership experience include your commitment physically and mentally to the horse, it will also require significant financial support as well. If you can make this commitment you won’t be disappointed and your horse ownership experience will be positive and one you certainly wouldn’t trade for anything.

Cathy Barrea is an award winning trainer and creator of Gymnastics for Horses. Her career spans over 35 years, during which time she has traveled the United States and Canada showing, training and teaching students and horses.

Author: Cathy Barrea
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Do you use guesswork to decide what and how much to feed your horse? Do you believe it’s too hard to modify your horses’ feed as their workload changes or as the seasons change? For many of the ten years that I’ve been managing the feed for the horses we breed and train, I had been doing just this. The horses seemed healthy and in good condition. Little did I know how much money I was wasting by feeding the horses too much of the wrong stuff! For just one of our horses I was feeding 20% more energy and 30% more protein than he needed! As he was an Australian Stock Horse Stallion, he wasn’t getting fat. Instead he ‘sweated up’ easily and he always seemed hyperactive. We just put this down to him being a stallion. What could we have saved? Annually this 20% represented more than $200, for just one horse!

The purpose of this article is to, for those of you who are also relying on guesswork when putting together your horses’ feed, open your eyes to how easy it is to calculate the right diet for your horse. You need to know this before even thinking about going in to the local horse feed store to choose a commercial feed from the huge range that is on offer.

Before we get into the details of calculating what to feed your horse there are a few points you need to understand about horses in general.

1) Horses have been designed by nature as grazing animals. While grazing they may also eat some grass seed (grain), but this wasn’t meant to make up a large part of their diet. So, if possible, always try to make up as much of your horses’ feed from good quality pasture and hay.

2) A horses’ digestive system can process only a limited amount of feed per day. This includes pasture, hay, and any feed mixes (‘hard feed’) you provide. The general rule is that total weight of feed eaten should be between 1.5% and 2% of the horses’ bodyweight (e.g. 500kg horse = 10kg total feed per day).

3) The amount of feed a horse needs is dependent on three main factors. These are the weight of your horse, how much work they do, and the weather. This last factor assumes your horse is kept in an open paddock or field (i.e. not kept in a stable). This also assumes your horse is already in good condition (body, teeth, worming, etc), and is in good health. In general, the bigger they are, the more work they do, and the colder the weather, the more energy they will need – but still within the limits mentioned in point (2).

What are the basic guidelines for working out what to feed your horse? Your horses’ overall diet must contain balanced amounts of;

1) Digestible Energy (from carbohydrates, sugars, and fats);

2) Protein;

3) Crude Fibre; and,

4) Vitamins and Minerals.

To quickly estimate the correct amounts for your horse, use the following. References to BW refer to your horses’ bodyweight.

1) Resting Horse (no work): 15MJ DE (energy) per 100kg BW, 150g Protein per 100kg BW, minimum of 1% BW in crude fibre, between 1.5% and 1.75% BW total feed weight (including pasture).

2) Horse in Light Work (20-30 min per day): 18MJ DE (energy) per 100kg BW, 180g Protein per 100kg BW, minimum of 1% BW in crude fibre, approximately 2% BW total feed weight (including pasture).

Vitamins and minerals have not been included as this is a complex area that deserves its own article. Worry about getting the first three right and then deal with vitamins and minerals later.

Given the above information, what you now need to do is work out the right balance of feed that provides the correct levels of energy, protein, and crude fibre, while staying under the maximum consumption weight. Generally the steps are;

1) Work out how much pasture your horse eats and the energy and protein value of this pasture. This is determined by how long they are in the paddock/field and the quality of the grass. If you live in areas where the temperature drops down to 5 to 12 degrees Celsius, in the Winter, the energy value of pasture is at least 15% lower than during mid to late Spring.

2) Calculate the remaining amounts your horse needs and decide whether this can be made entirely from good quality hay.

3) If your horse still needs more Energy and Protein, you now need to go looking for commercial feed mixes that meet the remaining requirements of your horse.

You may think that all of this appears to be a complicated balancing act. This is probably why a lot of us avoid accurately calculating our horses’ feed. However, there are now some good feed calculators, available on the Internet, that makes this all very simple. It’s easier if you use a calculator that takes a holistic approach by including the pasture and hay available to your horse, and provides generic advice that is not linked to a particular feed manufacturer. If it includes pictures of pasture types, and already includes the energy and protein values of the feed brands available to you at your local horse feed supplier, you’ll save a lot of time.

You now know the basics of what your horse needs. There are numerous tools online that will help you calculate the exact amounts required. Make use of them today, eliminate the guesswork, and save money at the same time!

Erik Durow
http://www.horsesfeed.com.au
Practical Horse Feeding Information for Recreational Riders
Visit the above website for more information and resources.

Author: Erik Durow
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horses were born to eat grass, it is their natural food. The supplemental feeding of grain was created by man in order to keep weight on horses as they were being used for beasts of burden. Horses pulling caravans across this vast country did not have time to graze, so man had to supplement their need for food. This is probably when feed bags were invented. As man settled and began to farm, horses were necessary for plowing and traveling long distances either for supplies or for herding cattle; again demonstrating the need for grain.

Horses can survive on grass alone. The need to give them grain will depend on the age of the horse, what kind of activity the horse is performing on a daily basis, the amount of pasture that is available for the individual and the quality of the pasture. Young horses that are weanlings (babies just weaned from their mother) and yearlings are growing at a fast pace. Actually any horse under the age of five for most breeds is still growing. If you want a horse that is strong and will grow to their full potential, giving them grain is the right thing to do. Horses that are being ridden often or on a daily basis should have grain. Now if your horse is in a pasture that has a lot of weeds or the grass stays short because there are too many horses in one pasture, then you may also want to supplement them with hay as well as grain. Another factor that comes into play is the breed of the horse. Certain breeds will need only a small amount of feed, others such as Thoroughbreds, need much more grain to accomplish the development of a healthy, strong animal.

Being a horse owner means that you must monitor your horses weight and condition constantly, whether they are in a stall or in a pasture. If you have a horse or pony that is an aggressive eater and is becoming too fat or even obese, when you are graining the other horses in the pasture, you will have to put that horse in a catch pen, usually built into a corner of a pasture, with no grain until the other horses are finished eating. Remember, if you are giving grain to pasture horses, the amount that you feed will be much less than that of winter time. Lets’ say you turn your horses out during the day in the winter. They will just forage around and pick a little on old dead grass that has little to offer as opposed to gorging themselves all day long and even during the nighttime. Horses can suffer from a severe condition called laminitis (founder) when they are carrying too much weight and producing too much heat in their bodies, and the heat travels to their feet. This condition is not only very painful for the horse but it is a permanent condition. They become more sensitive, can re-founder, will need extra care and specialized shoeing, and it can even cause them to loose their life if they are not removed from the environment that originally caused them to founder.

Horses have been around for millions of years and they survived without grain. The decision is yours and if you have horses in a rich pasture and they are not being ridden often and they have a healthy weight on them, then grain probably is not necessary. As long as your horse has a plentiful supply of rich grass, plenty of fresh water, trees or woods or a lean-to structure for protection, and you have them on a regimented worming program (will be discussed at a later date), life will be good for them without grain. Even though they seem to be self sufficient, horses always need to have a watchful eye on them at least once a day. It is necessary to check their water and clean the waterer or tubs often. Make sure all the horses seem happy, and are following their usual daily habits. You must also check them thoroughly making sure there are no serious cuts, wounds, or kick marks, and check their eyes for injuries or signs of illness or allergies.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my youtube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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