Posts Tagged ‘paddock’

Part One – Pasture and Shelter

Pasture time for your horse is important all season long even when it’s snowy and cold. We might not like the cold but, horses are wild animals and they don’t mind being outside. Horses thrive best in temperatures ranging from 14 degrees to 77 degrees. They will also huddle together for warmth if necessary.

Watch out for glazed over paddock and icy patches by the pasture shelter and frozen water buckets. For ice patches, put something with some “grit” on it to make it easier for walking and try spreading some alfalfa meat on ice to help melt it. Dirt, fireplace ashes or burn pit ashes work great for some extra traction. Keep water always accessible, breaking up frozen tops on water buckets or troughs can be done in just a few minutes, sometimes a ball in the water can help keep the top from freezing.

A shelter or run in shed works great in the pasture or paddock to protect horses from wind, snow and rain. This shelter should have clean bedding and water. Dry hay should also be provided in the shelter even if there is hay in the pasture. Remember to keep an eye on your horses – some will try to “dominate” the shelter and deny access to other horses. You need to make sure everyone has access to shelter, food and water.

A shelter is OK for most days but in severe weather conditions, a closed barn is better for protection of your horses. If you choose to “stall” your horse there are a few things to keep in mind. Your barn shouldn’t be much warmer than the outside air temperature that your horses will be turned out in. Don’t totally seal your barn, air flow is good for horses (and humans working in the barn too). Make sure your barn has good ventilation but no cold drafts so as not to cause respiratory problems in your horses.. Make sure to have clean shavings/bedding in stalls daily along with clean water and hay. If horses must be in stalls, provide entertainment for them like a jolly ball or horse pac-a-fier toy. Let horses out every day if weather permits.

Part Two – Feeding & Watering

Before the cold weather really sets in, you should make sure to get your horse a dental checkup – horses need to chew well to get all the nutrients out of their food especially in the winter. Eating and digesting is part of what keeps horses warm in winter, especially if they are outside. Food is energy and energy creates warmth so keep hay available 24/7 to help your horses maintain their warmth from digesting. If your horses are in stalls rather than outside and you choose to use hay nets, be sure to keep them low so that the hay dust isn’t a problem for your horse’s respiratory system.

Remember, winter coats can hide ribs so keep an eye on your horses – increase feed immediately if you start to see weight loss – increase hay portion not grain – timothy hay, orchard grass and long stem hay are great for keeping the gut working, generating heat and keeping weight on. It is much harder for horses to gain weight in winter so, try to maintain their weight with an abundance of hay all season. Also, keep an eye on pasture mates as some can get possessive of their food and won’t let others eat – make sure that each horse has their fair share of the available food.

Keep water always available in stalls and in the pasture. When horses don’t or can’t drink enough, they can have problems with impaction colic and other concerns. To help with keeping outside water troughs from freezing, put a large ball in it (like a soccer ball or basket ball). This will help to easily break up any thin layer of ice that might build up when the horse pushes the ball to get a drink. Experience shows that rubber water troughs are tough and won’t crack easily like inexpensive plastic ones so you can easily break up frozen water and refill. Be careful of frozen water buckets in stalls, check them often and refill with fresh water as needed. If your horse isn’t consuming enough water, to help work the hay they have eaten, put a salt block out where they can easily access it and this will help keep up their water consumption.

Part Three – Hoof Care / Blanketing / Bathing

Your horse’s hooves and their care are especially important in the winter due to the unavoidable slippery conditions. If you ride in the winter, be sure to pull horses shoes and trim regularly, long toes are clumsy and can make for an uncomfortable ride. Using a non-stick spray (like you would use for cooking) on the hooves top and bottom helps to prevent snow from sticking and makes it easier to walk.

If possible let your horse’s coat grow out, don’t clip. Horses are designed to be “in the outdoors” with no problems. They do best with the natural protection of their coat. A horse’s winter hair coat is more insulating than most blankets – but not if it’s wet. A wet horse can lead to hypothermia so, if your horses get wet outside take a few minutes and attend to them. Towel dry – remember legs and dry against hair grain to really get all the moisture that is by the skin. Then curry, quickly – then cover with a blanket – wool is good to absorb moisture and provide warmth. Take off after about an hour and they will be ready to do it all over again! Horses also can’t stay as warm if they are dirty or muddy, their coat can “fluff” to keep them as warm. If they are muddy you can brush through the mud so hair can “fluff” and insulate more efficiently. Just because we are cold, doesn’t mean our horses are.

If you must blanket your horse, there are a few points to consider. Blankets should cover horses neck as well as their body, just like humans they want to be “warm all over”. A good rule is to blanket senior and unhealthy horses since they don’t have the ability to handle the cold as well as younger, more fit horses. Stalled horses might need blankets due to inactivity. Also, if you clip you should blanket. Use a medium weight with fleece under for above freezing temperatures and add a cover for below freezing. Cotton is too cool and will not warm your horse or keep them warm, especially if they are clipped. Remove blankets during the day – brush and check for irritation from blanket and make any necessary adjustments.

Well, that’s all for this three part series. I hope it was helpful as well as entertaining.

If you are looking for great horse stalls and barn accessories, be sure to visit Woodstar Products website. They have been providing quality service to the equine industry since 1977.

Author: Kelly Z Bridges
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Excise Tax

First Steps – Approach Your Horse

Training a horse can only start after you have first caught him. This sounds simple enough, but if this is your first attempt at doing so it can be surprisingly frustrating. This is actually the most important step of all in training. Hereby are laid the foundations of trust. During each stage of horse training remember the importance of using the three P’s – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. These three elements work together to help you with each step of horse training.

If your enclosure is of an easily manageable size you will find that the approach stage will be much more efficient. Ideally use a round pen, but a paddock or any large fenced enclosure will also work.

A casual demeanor when first approaching the enclosure is necessary. Do your very best to relax and give the impression of calm. All of life’s stresses need to be left outside the pen. Horses are sensitive prey animals that will become intimidated easily if they sense any stress or aggression. This can be interpreted by the horse as a threat, and this is the last thing you want your horse to see you as. Trust needs to be created between you both.

Go in with the horse but not to catch him yet. That bit will come soon enough. For now just concentrate on becoming familiar with your horse, and letting the horse become familiar with you. Just walk in and stand around for a few moments. Do not look directly at the horse. Predators will intimidate their prey by staring into their eyes. It’s imperative that your horse doesn’t see you as a predator. You need to be seen as part of the herd.

Next time, take a rake in and tidy up a bit. Inspect the fence to see if there are places it needs mending. The horse should not be approached yet. The horse will want to investigate and find out what you are doing. They are naturally very curious animals. You’ll be checked out thoroughly and sniffed once you are a regular visitor.

It is important to remember that this could take some time, particularly if the horse isn’t used to humans. There are some horses who will not feel too shy and approach immediately. Either way is acceptable. The horse will begin to trust you only if you let him become accustomed to you slowly and in his own time. Patience!

Don’t reach for the horse as yet, though you may see this as a good opportunity to grab him. Bear in mind that patience here is the key. This takes time and you are building a foundation that will last throughout training and well beyond. It is important not to rush this step.

When the horse does approach, you should turn and walk away. Make sure that you walk away before your horse does. By doing this you will show him that he is not in charge of you.

Begin to approach your horse, sideways on, only when you feel that you are familiar and comfortable in each other’s presence. A loose and relaxed posture is needed as you approach the horse. Step sideways to alleviate the nerves of a skittish equine. Move towards the side and avoid staring. Glance sideways and move toward your new friend. It’s a bad idea to surprise your horse or sneak up on him with the halter. How will you hold onto the horse when “caught” if the horse is frightened? You will only succeed in breaching any trust by doing this and you will have to begin again. You could also be seriously hurt. The emphasis here is on patience and persistence.

When the horse allows you to come close, it’s time for positive reinforcement. You should try to forget about training at this point. You should only be thinking about bonding with your horse. Simple grooming, brushing, scratching behind the ears, conversation, stroking along the neck area are positive reinforcement tools. Your horse should be able to enjoy these first moments as much as you. Now is the time you are both ready for training.

A note on safety around horses:

You must not approach a horse from behind unless he knows you well. Before you can even think about moving a horse could have delivered you a kick. A horse will always be faster than you, and even more so if he feels under threat in any way. Ensure you can be seen when approaching a horse.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurance in place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. Horses are beautiful yet powerful animals, and a swift kick from a lively horse can be enough to put you out of action for a considerable amount of time. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.

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Author: Simone Davis
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Gadget reviews

Some horse owners dream of having a horse in their backyard. It can be a nice dream, and maybe it’s right for you, as long as you know what is ahead for you and your horse. First and foremost, you must know the answer to the question, “Is my rural setting zoned for horses?” If you live in a suburban or even rural neighborhood that forbids the keeping of livestock, you’ll have to board elsewhere; don’t try to hide your horses if it is against a local ordinance. To be a responsible boarder of horses, I will outline the housing options and the responsibilities you should adopt as a stable owner.

There are three basic types shelter for horses: pastures, paddocks, and box stalls. You can find designs in books on barn building, or buy these enclosures prefabricated. You may even have an architect or a reliable contractor design and build them for you.

Pasture: The ultimate choice of shelter is the open sky. A pasture is a substantial portion of fenced land where high-quality grass grows for horses. If you have enough land, motivation, and ability to create and manage a pasture for your horse, this is the best way to go. Horses who live on pastures are least likely to suffer from colic, leg problems, breathing disorders, stable vices (bad habits resulting from boredom), and other problems that can afflict horses confined to stalls. They also don’t need as much exercise from you because they get it on their own, horsing around the pasture. If you find you only have time to ride once a week, your horse won’t feel imprisoned.

Paddock: A paddock is usually a smaller outdoor shelter that will likely be without any grass at all. In the American East, a paddock is usually a large pen with board fencing. In more urban areas of the West, paddocks are smaller 12′ x 12′ or 12′ x 24′ enclosures made with substantial 15 gauge pipe. Wire fence is sometimes incorporated into these pipe corrals. Horses living in a paddock need daily exercise because they won’t get much of a workout in such a small space. If you can’t ride every day, you need to turn your horses loose in a nearby arena or take them for a walk to provide them with a way to stretch their legs. A paddock, then, is the next best thing to pasture. It will give the horse some room to move around. Because paddocks are outdoors, they also provide natural ventilation and more opportunities for mental diversion for your horse than that of a box stall.

Box stall: Some owners keep horses in indoor enclosures called box stalls. A box stall is just what it sounds like; it’s a stall in the shape of a box. Box stalls are compartments within a barn. Keeping a horse in a box stall offers a few advantages. Horses in a stall can stay cleaner and neater. Horses won’t get muddy when it rains or dusty when it’s dry. They also avoid bites and other injuries inflicted on them by other horses. The downside of keeping a horse in a box stall is that living there is less healthy for the horse than living outdoors. A horse who stands in nearly the same place for hours on end is more prone to colic, leg problems, and boredom, which often results in so-called stable vices. Also, because ventilation isn’t as good in a stall as it is outdoors, horses kept in a stall are more prone to respiratory problems. Like horses in paddocks, horses in box stalls require daily exercise; they haven’t much room to move around. You will need to ride your horses daily, turn them loose in an arena or, at the very least, spend a half-hour walking each one around the barn.

Keeping horses on your property requires time, money, and some hard work, however you choose to house your horses. Although having your horses in your backyard is a great experience, don’t overly romanticize the notion. You must bear some responsibilities along the way, including:

A good image: Whereas horse property was commonplace at one time, finding communities that are accepting of horses is becoming more difficult all the time. You can do your part to maintain the image of home stabling by being friendly and considerate toward neighbors.

Cleanliness: You have an obligation to your horses and to your neighbors to keep your property clean and well maintained. Part of that is daily mucking out your horse’s stall using a manure fork.

Ongoing learning: Because you and your horses are pretty much on your own, you’ll need to learn as much as you can about horses and keeping them happy and healthy. You can continue your education by subscribing to horse magazines, and reading books about horses and horse care. See about joining a local horse club. It is a wonderful ongoing source of camaraderie, learning and support.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

She recommends going for the richest black gold possible with a Bunn coffee grinder and your choice of coffee bean. You won’t believe the difference fresh ground coffee in your kitchen will make. And that smell!

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Duty on LCD/Plasma TV

When you wish to train a horse you’ll have to catch it first. This sounds simple enough, but if this is your first attempt at doing so it can be surprisingly frustrating. This is actually the most important step of all in training. The trust foundation is laid in this step. Remember the importance of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – the three P’s of horse training – during each and every stage of training your horse. These three training elements work together and are relevant with each step of training along the way.

The most efficient way to begin the approach is to have the horse in an enclosure of easily manageable size. A round pen is the best type of enclosure to use, but you can use any large fenced area or paddock if you don’t have one.

A casual demeanour when first approaching the enclosure is necessary. Do your very best to relax and give the impression of calm. Leave your life’s stress outside the pen. Prey animals such as horses are easily intimidated by any form of stress or aggression they may sense. This represents a possible threat and the last thing you want is for your horse to see you as a threat. Trust must be built between the two of you.

Enter the enclosure, but not to catch the horse yet. That will come in good time. Your aim for now is to familiarize yourself with the horse and more importantly, for the horse to become familiar with you. Just walk in and stand around for a few moments. Do not look directly at the horse. Predators eyeball their prey and stare into their eyes to intimidate them. You are not a predator and your horse should not see you as such. You need to be seen as part of the herd.

Next time, take a rake in and tidy up a bit. Check the fence panels and see if they need mending. Do anything but approach the horse at this point. The horse will approach you eventually and will want to see what you are doing. They are very curious creatures by nature. You’ll be checked out thoroughly and sniffed once you are a regular visitor.

Please keep in mind that this step can take more time if the horse is unfamiliar with human contact. For some horses shyness is not a problem, and they will approach you the minute you enter the enclosure. Either way is acceptable. The horse will begin to trust you only if you let him become accustomed to you slowly and in his own time. Patience!

Don’t reach for the horse as yet, though you may see this as a good opportunity to grab him. The most important thing to remember here is patience. This takes time and you are building a foundation that will last throughout training and well beyond. This step should not be rushed.

When the horse at last approaches you, turn your back and walk away. Be sure you are the first one to do so. By walking away first, you will indicate that he is not in charge of you.

When you and the horse are familiar with each other and comfortable in each others’ presence, you can approach him, but not straight on. Walk slowly and remember to use your very loose and relaxed posture. Stepping sideways can be a good approach for a skittish equine. Go toward the side and don’t stare. Looking sideways, move towards the horse. Whatever you do, don’t sneak up on the horse and try to surprise it with the halter. What will you do to hang on to the horse once you “catch” it if it’s frightened? Your mutual trust will be breached and you’ll have to start all over again. And of course you could be hurt. Patience and persistence.

When the horse allows you to come close, it’s time for positive reinforcement. The first moments you spend together should have nothing to do with work. This step is about bonding. Simple grooming, brushing, scratching behind the ears, conversation, stroking along the neck area are positive reinforcement tools. The horse should see this as enjoyable interaction. The two of you will now be ready for training.

A note about safety:
Never approach a horse from behind unless you are very familiar and the horse knows you. A horse can register a swift kick before you can even think about getting out of the way. They are always faster than you are, especially if they feel threatened or surprised. Always approach where you can be seen.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurance in place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. Horses may be mostly gentle creatures, but they are nevertheless very powerful ones; if a horse kicks you, you could be very seriously injured. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.

When wanting to train a horse you first need to catch it. When you first attempt this you may be surprised at how frustrating it can in fact be. This is the most important step in horse training. In this step you will lay the foundation of trust. During each stage of horse training remember the importance of using the three P's - patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. Each step of horse training will involve the use of these three elements.

If your enclosure is of an easily manageable size you will find that the approach stage will be much more efficient. A round pen is the best type of enclosure to use, but you can use any large fenced area or paddock if you don't have one.

Start by approaching the horse enclosure casually. It's important to relax and appear calm here. Leave your life's stress outside the pen. Any stress or aggression will intimidate a horse easily, as in nature they are prey animals. Your horse could sense a threat which is the last thing you want your is horse to see you as a threat. Trust needs to be built between you and the horse.

Go in with the horse but not to catch him yet. That will come in good time. Focus on becoming familiar with the horse and letting him become familiar with you. Just walk into the enclosure and stand around for a bit. Do not gaze directly at the horse. A predator will stare directly into the eyes of their prey to intimidate them. A predator you are not, and your horse must know this. You must be seen as part of the herd.

Next time you enter the enclosure, take a fork or shovel and do some tidying. Inspect the fence and gate, and check for anything that may need mending. Keep busy with other things, but do not approach the horse. The horse will eventually approach so he can see what you're up to. They are naturally very curious animals. A thorough checking-out and sniff will occur once the horse sees you as a regular visitor.

If the horse is unfamiliar with human contact this step can take some time. For some horses shyness is not a problem, and they will approach you the minute you enter the enclosure. Either way is acceptable. Allow your horse to take his time when getting acquainted - this is how the all-important trust will be built. Patience!

Don't see this as an opportunity to grab the horse. Bear in mind that patience here is the key. It can take a long time to build this foundation for training and a lasting bond with your horse. It is important not to rush this step.

When the horse does approach you should turn and walk away. Be sure it is you to be first to walk away. This will show the horse that you're in charge.

Begin to approach your horse, sideways on, only when you feel that you are familiar and comfortable in each other's presence. Remember to use a slow, relaxed manner to walk towards the horse. Step sideways to alleviate the nerves of a skittish equine. Go toward the side and don't stare. Looking sideways, move towards the horse. Never sneak up on or surprise your horse with the halter. It will be nearly impossible to hold onto a horse that is frightened by being caught in this manner? This will destroy any trust you have built so far. A serious injury could easily be inflicted. The emphasis here is on patience and persistence.

Use plenty of positive reinforcement when the horse allows you to come close. Work or training should be far from your mind whist making this initial contact with your horse. You should only be thinking about bonding with your horse. Just by grooming, scratching, talking and stroking you will be employing tools of positive reinforcement. Your horse should be able to enjoy these first moments as much as you. Now is the time you are both ready for training.

A word on safety:
You must not approach a horse from behind unless he knows you well. A horse can register a swift kick before you can even think about getting out of the way. Horses are much faster than humans, particularly if they feel threatened or surprised. Do not approach where you can't be seen.

Whether it is your own horse, or you are training the horse on somebody else’s behalf, it is always advisable to ensure that there is adequate equine insurance in place to protect you both should an accident occur during training. A single kick from one of these beautiful yet immensly powerful creatures can potentially put a horse rider out of action for a long time. A good horse insurance policy will include third party liability, and it is definitely worth checking this before you begin with your training.