Posts Tagged ‘muscles’

Other than stretching, what can help to soothe my muscles after horse riding? Especially for my thighs and butt after trotting?

For the life of me I can never sit in a deep horse stance for more then 30 to 40 seconds even after doing Kung Fu for quite a while now. Are there any tricks to improving your horse stance, preferable aside from just doing horse stances?

What muscles fail on you when your in your horse stance and what other exercises strengthen these muscles? If it is just a matter of doing a horse stance more, how often should I attempt to stay in horse stance every day and how long should I hold it? Would adding weight such as from a backpack help any?

If you plan to show or compete with your horse, it is essential that you get your horse into shape. His muscle strength and stamina will determine how he handles rigorous work, and a fit horse will not be as stressed on show day. Of course, even if you are not competing your horse, fitness is an important issue.

Many riders focus only on themselves: developing leg strength, improving balance, increasing stamina. This philosophy is a mistake because it increases the chance your horse will be hurt because he isn’t in shape.

Endurance

The first way to get your horse into shape is to focus on endurance. This simply means the length of time your horse can perform certain activities without dangerously accelerating his respiration and heart rate. I recommend that horse owners observe endurance rides at least once a week.

An endurance ride is usually conducted in a field or on a trail because the arena can become monotonous. Depending on whether or not your horse is currently in shape, an endurance ride could take an hour or more, so prepare for longevity. In the beginning, however, an out-of-shape horse shouldn’t be ridden longer than 30 minutes for endurance.

Contrary to popular belief, trot work is the most conducive to endurance. It combines moderate speed with constant activity in the legs, and won’t wear the horse out as fast as cantering or galloping. Your horse can definitely trot for thirty straight minutes, but it is doubtful he can canter that long.

Form

The way in which a horse moves is directly related to his fitness level. A fit horse will be able to move correctly, using his muscles efficiently and balancing himself both on the straight-away and on corners and circles. When you work to get your horse into frame on a regular basis, he will automatically increase his fitness level.

Working your horse in a rig is one way to get him into shape. Rigs include draw reins, side reins and training forks, and must be used properly for the horse’s safety. Side reins, for example, are only used in hand or on the lunge line, while draw reins and training forks can be used while mounted.

The purpose of these rigs is not to force your horse into the proper position, but to show him how he should carry himself. Use them as tools rather than instruments of doom and you’ll experience positive results. That said, make sure you ask a trainer or riding instructor to show you the proper ways to use them.

Weather

A horse you think is in shape during the winter might reach the blistering summer months and suddenly seem lethargic and weak. Horses respond to differences in the weather much the same as we do, and it is important to consider the weather outside when you’re trying to get your horse into shape.

Not only is the hear a factor during the summer, but also the humidity. It can affect respiration and wear your horse out faster than he would in a dry clime.

My policy, when the weather begins to heat up, is to start all over with getting my horse into shape. I begin again with short endurance rides, working up to longer bouts as he develops a tolerance for the heat. The same goes for the winter; I allow my horse to slowly grow used to the drop in temperature.

Discipline

It is easy for horseback riders to become so entrenched in their chosen disciplines that they forget the amazing versatility and flexibility of riding in general. They work every day on reining, dressage, jumping, cutting, western pleasure or any number of other disciplines because that is where their focus lies.

Big mistake.

Your horse will find it easier to get into shape when he has some variety in his workouts. You might compete only in dressage, but would your horse benefit from trail riding, jumping or regular flat work occasionally? You bet. It will challenge him to use muscles that are not commonly exercised in dressage.

It’s just like people. You ride horses, so you probably think you’re in shape. But what if you took up karate or basketball? You’d use different muscle groups in different ways, and you’d probably be sore in the morning.

Getting your horse into shape will take time, and it requires constant effort. Horses can experience fluctuating fitness levels just like we can, so make exercise a primary goal for you and your horse.

Laura Jane Thompson is the editor of Riding Instructor University, a web site dedicated to helping riding instructors make more money, achieve greater success and develop effective programs. She is also the Feature Writer for the Horses section at Suite101.com.

Author: Laura Jane Thompson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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If you are considering buying a new horse, there are several issues of concern to you. Smart buyers and riders know what they want before speaking to horse sellers.

It is important to know everything you can about the new horse. Learn its history, blood lines, habits, preferences, skills and overall attitude. It is also important to find out about its inherent traits. All horses have their own unique traits. Know which ones are most desirable to you.

Traits to Consider

Some horses are better at certain tasks than others. When buying a new horse, pre-determine what skills you want the horse to possess. Some to consider are:

* English riding

* Showing and jumping

* Racing

* Western riding

* Trail riding

* Roping

* Team roping

* Barrel racing

* Endurance

Questions to Ask Before Buying a Horse

How much do you expect to pay? Look only at horses within your price range. What gender, color, age and size are you looking for? Weed out horses that don’t fit within your requirements. Does the horse load and unload from trailers well? Will it tolerate shoeing and hoof trimming? Score your prospective horses on a scale of one to five for these items. The higher scorers will help you determine which horses are of the most interest to you.

When buying a new horse it is important to be sure it has been thoroughly evaluated. An initial inspection of the horse must be performed by someone capable and experienced. If you don’t know what to look for, bring someone you trust who does. Here are the areas you need to check:

* Eyes. Make sure the horse can see out of both eyes. Do a flinch test by waving your hand quickly in front of each eye. Check for any differences.

* Ears. Check for excess ear wax or over-sensitivity when the ears are touched.

* Mouth. Check for any lesions or sores. Be sure the teeth are normal and aligned. Watch the horse chew to check for normal biting ability.

* Head, neck and chest. Check for symmetry and balance of muscles. Be sure the horse moves its head, neck and chest freely and without difficulty.

* Feet. Inspect all four feet for swelling and sensitivity to touch. Flex and extend all joints to look for pain, resistance or head lifting that indicates pain or discomfort.

* Rear end. Check for good tone, signs of discharge and signs of diarrhea.

* Lameness. It is imperative that you are able to observe the horse trotting in circles in both directions and in a straight line. Watch closely for irregular bobbing of the head, sloppy movements or skipping that may indicate pain in any of the legs.

If the horse has passed your initial evaluation, it is time to take it for a ride. Observe its stamina, nerves and whether or not it is alert and well behaved.

If you have any doubts, either walk away or arrange an agreement based on the findings during the veterinary examinations. This is common practice and a legitimate horse seller will agree to some reasonable terms.

Be sure the three required exams are performed by a veterinarian of your choosing or one that has a neutral opinion. The required exams are:

* Health certificate, which is usually for crossing state lines.

* Insurance exam, to satisfy mortality and other questions related to insuring the horse.

* Pre-purchase veterinary exam, detailing the medical status of the horse at the time of purchase.

When buying a horse, you want to find one that is healthy and has a good attitude. The horse’s experience and dependability levels must closely match, or be above, that of the primary rider. A willing and intelligent horse can be trained to bring you years of pleasure and skilled work habits. Choose your horse wisely.

Rachel Harding has been riding horses since she was five. Sign up for our free newsletter and get all the information you need at Horse And Rider Info

Author: Rachel Harding
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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I love horseback riding and I would like to build the muscles required to become a better rider, but I don’t have my own horse. I ride about once a week, but because it is so expensive I can’t ride more then that. I also play volleyball, which help wiht some muscles, but they’re not quite the same ones. I’ve also checked into Exercise Machines that are supposed to be horse simulators, but they are extremely expensive (Around ,000). Any ideas as to what I can do?

Shoulder-in is the father of the advanced lateral dressage movements. It does many wonderful things for your horse. Here are just some of them:

1. Shoulder-in is a suppling exercise because it stretches and loosens the muscles and ligaments of the inside shoulder and forearm. During shoulder-in, your horse passes his inside foreleg in front of his outside foreleg. This motion increases his ability to move his forearm gymnastically in other movements.

2. It’s also a straightening exercise because you should always straighten your horse by bringing his forehand in front of his hindquarters. Never try to straighten him by leg yielding his hindquarters out behind his shoulders.

3. Shoulder-in is also a collecting exercise. It increases your horse’s self-carriage because he lowers his inside hip with each step. As a result, his center of gravity shifts back toward his hind legs. His hindquarters carry more weight, and his front end elevates.

What Does Shoulder-In look like?

The horse flexes to the inside, and bends around your inside leg. His forehand comes in 30 degrees off the wall so he’s on three tracks. At this angle his inside hind leg lines up behind his outside foreleg.

Sometimes in competition, the judge likes to see a hoof’s width more than three tracks. But don’t bring the forehand in more than that, or you’ll lose the bend.

What Are the Aids?

If you’re doing left shoulder-in, the aids are:

1. Put your weight on your left seat bone.
2. Keep your left leg on the girth for bend and to ask for engagement of the inside hind leg.
3. Place your right leg behind the girth to prevent the hindquarters from swinging out.
4. Use your left rein to create a +1 flexion at poll.
5. Keep your right rein steady and supporting to prevent too much bend in the neck.
6. Keep both hands low and equidistant from your body as you move them to the left. Move them to the left enough to place the outside front leg in front of the inside hind leg. Use your inside rein as an opening rein. Bring your outside hand very close to the withers, but never let that hand cross over the withers.

What’s the Sequence of Aids?

Always ask for bend before you ask for angle. The formula for the advanced lateral exercises is: Bend + Sideways = Engagement. (It’s NOT Sideways + Bend=Engagement.)

* Make a 10-meter circle (or ride a corner with a 10-meter arc) to bend your horse.
* You’ll know your horse is bending easily when you can soften the contact on the inside rein, and he stays bent by himself. He’ll also feel like he’s “giving” in his rib cage. (i.e. If you’re circling to the right, his rib cage feels like it’s bulging to the left.)
* Once he’s bending nicely, start a second 10-meter circle.
* Interrupt that circle during the first step, and continue down the long side.
* To interrupt the circle, look straight down the long side, and give a squeeze with your inside leg.
* Bring both hands to the inside to place the forehand 30 degrees away from the wall.
* Make sure you do shoulder-in with the same amount of bend and angle in both directions. Don’t ride on three tracks in one direction and on three and a half tracks in the other.

How Can You Tell If You’re Doing a Good Shoulder-in?

* The quality of the shoulder-in really comes down to BEND.
* You know your horse is bending if his hindquarters are in exactly the same position (i.e.parallel to the wall) in shoulder-in as they are when you’re just riding straight down the track.
* If his hindquarters swing out at an angle to the wall, you’re just doing a leg yield in a shoulder-in position.

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques?
Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence?
Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach?
Learn how by going to: http://www.janesavoie.com/ or http://www.dressagementor.com

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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You’ve probably heard lots of discussion about whether or not to work your dressage horse “deep.” There are a variety of opinions on the matter. Some riders warm up and cool down their horses “long and low” to stretch and loosen the muscles. Others always school in a balance and frame appropriate to the level at which they are working; they never stretch their horses. Many trainers school in a deep frame only during the movements when the horse habitually comes above the bit. Still others do all of their work “extremely deep” with the horse’s nose almost on his chest; they bring him up only when they are getting ready to compete.

So what should you do with your dressage horse? Use benign antagonism to help you decide.

Let’s say you’re riding a “dirt sucker.” This horse leans so heavily on the forehand that you feel like you’re somersaulting around the arena. With a horse like this, it’s best to ride him more “up.” That’s because his version of long and low is not a good one. Yes, his head and neck stretch down and out. But my concern is with his hindquarters. If his hind legs are trailing out behind his body, and he’s pushing himself heavily onto his forehand, he’s not in good balance. By shortening the reins and riding him a little more up, you can clear the way for his hind legs to come more underneath his body so he can carry himself better.

On the other hand, your dressage horse might be a “stargazer,” who goes around so inverted that you can almost look at him eyeball to eyeball. He travels with a short neck, a low back and his head and neck up in the air. To retrain and strengthen his topline muscles, put this horse in the opposite shape from the one he adopts on his own. Send his hind legs further underneath his body so that his back is up and his head and neck are low. Use a “connecting half halt” to change his shape (For more information on “connecting half halts”, see Train with Jane–Volume 2–Connection). Then, after giving the “connecting half halt”, allow the reins to get a bit longer so he can seek the contact forward and down.

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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