Posts Tagged ‘Moving’

Horse training aids provide you with a useful trade to help you have success when training your horse. When it comes to training a horse, you don’t want to pass over your investment in training aids. Horse training is a serious issue and training aids can make sure a trainer stays safe. It is best to make sure you have the following necessary horse training aids before you start training your horse.

Every trainer is going to need a halter and lead rope combination. The rope halter allows you to tie and lead which is often better than a flat halter, which is uncomfortable for the horse and prevents leaning. When you are working with a horse, it is important to have a rope halter as a part of your equipment.

Next, you need a lead rope to attach to your halter. This lead rope is used to steer and direct your horse. This is a very important training aid since it acts like a leash and allows you to tell your horse what you want them to do.

Another valuable horse training aid is the longe line. Longeing is a term for a set of training skills that teach a horse direction, posture and yielding or moving because of pressure. The longe line will allow you to accomplish these goals.

A popular training tool among many trainers is a progress string. This thin, braided rope has an eye splice at one end and a leather popper on the other. You can use it in a variety of ways. They can be a visual aid for horses to know when they are in your space. It can also be a physical tool for you to have contact while in the saddle. The progress strain isn’t heavy to cause pain, but the popper end has a distinct noise and can be used in place of a crop.

For a less traditional horse training method, you should consider getting a large rubber ball. This type of rubber ball can be bought at a toy store and can be used to successfully condition horse’s nerves. Simply roll the ball around them and gently bump it into their legs so they won’t become startled.

The horse can also be directed from the saddle in order to have them gently move the ball with their legs. This way your horse can become desensitized to unexpected movements or objects. Thereby, reducing a horse from becoming spooked.

The last less traditional horse training aid you can use is a simple plastic tarp. The tarp can be used to develop a horse’s courage while providing you with a cheap training aid. All you have to do is place the tarp in the training area and lead your horse over it so they walk across it by themselves.

As the horse walks across the tarp, it will make a noise and provide them with a strange footing environment. This will develop the trust between a trainer and horse while providing them with desensitizing to noisy situations for when you take them out on a trail ride.

This is by no means a complete list of all the horse training aids available on the market, but it can provide you with something to work with. This list provides you with the basic and necessary training aids for your horse so you can get started with your training program. Once you progress in your horse training you can start using advanced horse training aids and tactics so that you have continued progress.

Sheryll Walker is a horse training enthusiast, helping numbers of people to learn secrets of training horses.

To discover more helpful horse training aids and learn about natural horse training, visit HorseTrainingHelp.com.

Out Now! Get your hand on the “Natural Horsemanship” Videos!

Author: Sheryll Walker
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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A lot of dressage riders aren’t clear on the difference between flexion at the jaw and flexion at the poll, and how to ask their horses for each of these positions.

Keep in mind that a dressage horse can flex three ways-to the left, to the right, and “in”.

When a horse flexes to the left or right, he’s flexing at the poll. When he does this, you’ll just see his inside or outside eye or nostril. I call this position +1 or -1 because you’re bringing his head 1 inch to the inside or the outside of where his head would be positioned if his chin was directly in front of the crease in the middle of his chest.

You’ll ask for flexion at the poll to the left or right with an indirect rein aid. To give an indirect rein aid, give a quick turn of the wrist so your thumb points to the center of the circle, your fingernails point up toward your face, and your baby finger points up toward your opposite shoulder. As you turn your wrist this way, bring your hand very close to the withers, but don’t cross over them. As soon as you’ve turned your wrist, return to the “starting position”where your thumb is the highest point of the hand. Be sure you support with your outside rein as you do this so you “catch” his poll rather than bend his entire neck.

When a horse flexes “in”, he flexes at the jaw, and he closes the angle at his throatlatch. You’ll use a completely different rein action to ask your horse to flex “in” than the action you used to ask for flexion to the left or right.

Ask your horse to flex “in” by moving the bit in his mouth. Be sure you only use ONE rein to move the bit. If you alternately saw on his mouth with your left and right hands, he’ll just bring his face closer to his chest.

We often flex the horse’s jaw. In fact, his jaw must be flexed for him to be completely on the bit. BUT, the danger lies in flexing the jaw BEFORE you connect him over his back. If you flex his jaw first, he’s not really connected. His face is just “in”. The danger here is that you can fake yourself out.

You might think he’s correctly on the bit because he feels soft in your hand when his jaw is flexed. But if you go to do something like a transition, you’ll find out that he’s really not connected at all.

During the transition, your dressage horse will raise his head and neck and look hollow because all you have control over is a flexed jaw. He wasn’t honestly on the bit to begin with! You need to ride your horse from back to front. Close your legs and send your horse forward through your outside hand to get his back round. And ONLY after you’ve sent him forward through your outside hand should you flex his jaw as the final ingredient of putting him on the bit.

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques? Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence? Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach?

Learn how by going to: http://www.janesavoie.com or http://www.dressagementor.com

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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How do you know if your horse has a hole in his training? Does he give you any resistance when you ask him for something? That something could be moving sideways from your leg or softening his jaw to your hands or giving you nice up and down transitions. These are just several examples of basic training holes that many horses have.

It is important to know how to fix the problem, or in this case to plug the training hole. In order to correct the holes in your horse’s training, he needs to have a good foundation. That is where ground work comes in. Ground work is the foundation upon which all riding is built upon. Every discipline uses ground work to some extent. It is part of the basics your horse needs to understand to be ridden well. It is similar to school, where you can’t move on to the next grade UNTIL you pass the previous grade. In this article we will talk why it is bad to have holes in your horses training and then in later articles will go over several holes and how to fix them.

Having a horse with holes in his training is dangerous for these reasons: safety, horses monetary value deteriorates, your relationship suffers and you can’t progress in training. These are just several of the reasons why good training is important. But knowing how to fix the holes and improve your horse’s behavior is especially important to your long term relationship with your horse.

Safety is the number one most important reason why you should be able to have your horse’s attention on you at all times. Your horse needs to be able to respect you and look to you for guidance. Especially in a situation where you are around other people and horses. Horses can be very dangerous without intending to be dangerous. They weight roughly 1000 pounds, and we as people weigh a fraction of that. Horses consider us part of their “herds” and don’t realize that we are not the same size. So for the safety of us, and everyone around us it is your number one priority to always be in “control” of your horse. Otherwise someone else can be injured or worse.

Another reason to fix your horse’s training is because monetary value declines. A trained horse has a higher value than an untrained horse. And a horse that has training issues is worth even less. Invest your time and effort in the best training you can do for your horse. Not only will it improve his monetary value, but you will also improve your relationship with him. This will in turn increase your level of satisfaction and fulfillment.

Another aspect of your horse having holes in his training is your relationship with him will deteriorate. If your horse has poor training that includes large holes, you will be less inclined to spend time with him. Which will in turn decrease your level of satisfaction. This can also cause you to be afraid of your horse, as well as teach him many bad habits. Reinforcing the bad habit also erodes the relationship you have with your horse, as well as deteriorates any respect he may have for you. As the respect declines so will his behavior. And this goes back to the safety paragraph. Anytime we handle a horse we are training it; you are either reinforcing good habits or bad habits. When you reinforce all of the good habits, everyone will be happier.

The last reason that I will discuss here is moving forward with his training. When you have holes in the training you can’t move beyond the hole. For example, if your horse does not perform trot transitions well, then how can you move on to the canter or any more difficult training? The trot transitions need to be fixed before you move on to higher levels of training. Otherwise, at some point your foundation will crumble and the horse will start having issues because he doesn’t understand what you are asking for. You don’t want your horse to start having issues, as this is dangerous. This is when your horse can inadvertently injure someone or himself.

All in all, you need to have a solid base of groundwork in order to move up in training. This is what allows you to teach your horse more difficult training. By having solid ground work training you can always go back to it if your horse has a hard time understanding more difficult work. It will benefit you and your horse for many years to come, and should not be skimped on.

Editor’s Note: Based in Sugar Grove, Sara McKiness is a Certified Horse Trainer who helps riders improve their communication with horses without punishment. She graduated valedictorian from Meredith Manor International Equestrian Center (MMIEC) where she majored in teaching and training, and minored in Farrier Science.

Questions or comments can be sent to sara @ horselogic.net

Horse Logic 2010

Classical Dressage, Western, and Hunt Seat Lessons. Come ride exceptional & experienced lesson horses. Based in Sugar Grove IL with travel to your facility available. Learn better communication with your horse and build your relationship. Fully insured with over 18 years riding experience. Contact Sara for more information 630-631-2746

Sara McKiness
Horse Logic
St. Charles, IL
630-631-2746
sara@horselogic.net
http://www.horselogic.net

Author: Sara McKiness
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Guest blogger

Wish I could tell you after going through the tasks of looking for your first horse, checking for soundness and way of going, buying your first horse and then tackling the worries of moving your horse to his or her new home, that the worst is over. Some horses do not always do well when it comes to uprooting them and changing their homes. Of course, there are some exceptions, but overall most horses have fairly strong reactions to this move.

Horses are creatures of habit. Horses can eat the same feed, stay in the same pasture, and basically follow the same routine everyday of the rest of their lives and be happy, providing that all their basic needs are met and they share their life with other horses. Some horses when you take them off the van will start screaming and hollering and try to run over top of you. Be patient. This is only a temporary reaction. Your best bet is to get the horse into a stall as soon as possible. Do not allow them to drink large amounts of water at this time. A few sips will be sufficient.

You do not want to turn the horse out into a pasture or paddock in this mental and emotional condition. The horse may inadvertently run into or through the fence or even try to go over the fence. Make sure good hay is in the stall to try and calm your horse down and divert his or her attention. Usually, what follows after this is perhaps a lot of pawing and digging of holes in the stall if you do not have horse mats. I will be discussing the use of mats, bedding and other issues concerning safe stalls at a later date. Stay with your horse as he or she is already feeling abandonment, missing their friends, and not understanding why they had to leave the place they loved. If there is a top door on the stall and your horse is really misbehaving, shut the door for a while until they settle down some, but stay outside the stall and continue to talk to them.

If your horse is sweating and is getting too hot, even though it will be difficult, it is in their best interest to take them to the wash rack and give them a bath. Most likely, it will calm them down and help make them feel a little more at home. At this time, you can ask your horse if they want more water, but only a few sips at a time. If possible, walk the horse around for a while and consider allowing your horse to graze or sniff around unless their behavior becomes outrageous again. Tranquilizers are an option if the horse does not calm down in a reasonable amount of time but only use this as a last resort as a veterinarian call will be necessary. It is best not to feed your horse on this particular evening, just make sure that he or she has plenty of hay and lots of fresh cool water. This will reduce the risk of colic. Better to be safe than sorry.

Now lets’ discuss the other end of the spectrum. If you just bought an animal that has been showing, then more than likely this will probably not be much of an issue. This type of horse is used to getting on the van or trailer and going to many different places and usually does not mind as that is their habit of life. So follow the same rules but everything will be much quieter and simpler. If your horse is well behaved, after a few hours, you can give them an evening offering of grain but it is not necessary, and monitor the amount of water your horse is drinking. Allowing a horse to drink a large amount of water after any activity is not in their best interest. You could end up with a horse suffering from colic. Hopefully you will either have your horse on your own property and you will be able to watch your horse’s behavior throughout the evening, or the facility that you are boarding your horse will have a night watchman that can check on your horse throughout the evening.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my YouTube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Finally, the last recommendation before making your decision to buy your first horse, is making sure the horse is sound. This means that the horse does not have any lameness. Unsoundness can come in many forms, not just the obvious; from respiratory problems, to muscular or skeletal problems, to feet problems. You also want a horse that is mentally sound in his or her way of thinking and dealing with life’s everyday issues. Lets’ assume you have found a horse of interest and you are going back for a second look. Now you are familiar with the horses’ ways and mannerisms. This will give you an advantage as it will make it a little easier to detect some of these things I am about to discuss.

It is important that you look for evenness in their gaits, (walk, trot and canter); no head bobbing as they go through their motions and when you are on their backs, and that every time they put each foot down while at a walk, trot or canter, that each step feels the same. When you are riding a horse, they should feel smooth and even. You are looking for a comfortable ride, the smoother the better. Of course, if a horse has not been ridden in several months or years, their gait will not be quite as smooth perhaps as it should be, as their fitness level will determine this to a degree. When you are on a horse’s back and they are jolting you in the saddle and the horse seems to be pounding the ground, (instead of moving easily across the ground), this should be a red flag for you. Sound and good moving horses just seem to float across the surface. Each horse is an individual, and each one will feel different and you have to take that into consideration. The way in which we ride a horse will also change the outcome of his or her ability to please us.

Let’s move on to muscular, joint and feet problems. If a horse has been ridden too hard on a particular day, they may be moving a little off, (meaning that they are not moving evenly and smoothly), and they may experience some stiffness and soreness due to the build up of lactic acid in the muscles. But as the lactic acid is absorbed by the body, the soreness should subside and the horse’s gaits should go back to normal. If there are chronic muscle issues, then it will take much longer for the horse to re-cooperate and this is another red flag. If, when you go to mount the horse, and they go down in the back, this of course means that their back is sore, but why? This behavior may not just be the back, but may also involve the stifle muscles or other muscles adjoining these areas. Usually, if a horse is unsound because of joint issues, there will be some heat or swelling involved which may or may not be easily detected by a beginner horse person.

If you are suspicious of joint problems, it may be in your best interest to have a veterinarian perform a physical check on the horse and maybe take x-rays just to be sure; depending on the amount of money you are willing to spend. Also, feet problems are a very big issue and can sometimes be difficult to diagnose. If you put your hands around the coronet band, (the very top of the front and side of the foot), where the leg meets the foot, you want to feel if there is any heat in that area and you need to do this on each foot. Also by picking up the feet and looking at the bottom, you will notice a v-shape what is known as a frog. The frog should be a little spongy, yield slightly to a pressured touch, should not have any odor and should look full and not partially eaten away by fungus. Also the walls of the foot, similar to our fingernail, should be extending further down from the frog meaning if you look at the foot from the side, the walls of the foot, (darker outer fingernail), should be a little longer than the frog, but not too long. A good blacksmith is invaluable in today’s horse world as some sound horses need a little more care in this area in order to keep them sound, especially if they are being ridden or campaigned a lot.

The next issue of soundness is respiratory. These problems can be physical malfunctions which will not allow the proper flow of air called a palate. The palate is a mechanism located in the throat area which separates the flow of air and food. That means that if the palate is not working properly it can cause some distress for your horse when breathing. Horses can also suffer from allergies and a problem called heaves. I will be going in depth about these problems at a later date, but for now, you should pay attention to how the horse you are considering is breathing when at a stand still, and how quickly their nostrils start getting wider and wider at what stage of riding. Of course, horses who are not being ridden often and/or are overweight, their nostrils will start to flare very easily. If you just started riding, and the horse is breathing heavy, and you can hear them breathing or they are making a loud noise, this is not a good sign. Horses with the heaves will show signs first, (with little or no exercise), of coughing, sometimes severely, and their stomach’s will tighten up and then drop suddenly, tighten up and drop suddenly. Horses with heaves are usually not very usable and need special care as far as their feed and hay regiment.

So in conclusion of this series Buying a New Horse, I wish you the best of luck. May it be the beginning of a very long, happy and healthy time for you with the possibility of many more horses in your life to come. They will be as much a part of your family as any other member and will give you endless hours of happiness, fun and love.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my YouTube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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OK, you think you may have found the right horse. You went through all the check points in part one, you have made arrangements at the nearest horse stables that meet the requirements that were discussed in part two, or you have made arrangements for a facility at home providing either a stall or a lean-to (a two or three sided building with a high roof and preferably built in hay racks). Remember, all horses need to have shelter from the elements. Hopefully whichever place you will be keeping your horse, there will be a considerable amount of room not only for your horse to graze, but where he or she can run and play and have some fun; preferably with other horses. But, before you pass over your hard earned dollars, I want to give you just a few more things to consider, hence – Part Three.

What kind of mannerisms did the horse display when having the saddle and bridle put on them? Were they putting there ears back, or acting like they wanted to step on the person trying to tack them up? Were they moving back and forth, acting nervous or even starting to break out in a sweat? Were they difficult when the bridle was being put on them, or were they interacting, being friendly, wanting attention and not seeming to care that they were about to be ridden? When you started to mount the horse, did they stand there quietly and wait for their first command, or did they want to walk off quickly?

Did they do what you asked or was it a struggle to get them to go forward or turn around? Is the horse trying to take control and go wherever they want to go, or are you on an animal that really wants to please you? If you are saying yes to these negative inquiries, then this may not be a horse for a beginner. The quieter and more agreeable a horse behaves, the better a prospect that animal will be for a first time horse owner. He or she will enrich your life, and warm your heart with pleasant experiences that come with owning a horse. As your experiences grow, you then can step up to meet the challenges of other horses. Horse behavior can sometimes be compared to that of a child. So, if you have children you will understand how to deal with them.

Before making that final commitment, it is to your advantage to ride the horse for more than just a minute or two. Make sure that you walk, trot and canter preferably more than once. Some horses seem to be fine at first but as time passes with you on their backs, they sometimes can change into a “horse of a different color”. It is not unusual, and actually recommended, that you come back a second time to ride the horse again. That way you have something to compare their behavior to. Meaning if the horses’ behavior was very much the same the second time you rode him or her without much variance, then he or she probably is the real thing. Remember that this animal may possibly be with you for the rest of their life. You want a horse that you will really enjoy and who really enjoys you. As I said before horses are social animals, but it is important to understand that they are emotional ones too.

Unfortunately, there will always be horses that exhibit bad behavior, and some, very bad behavior. My experience tells me that a lot of bad behavior is usually the result of human error. That is why I am here trying to talk to you, and hopefully in the future, you will be talking to me. It is so easy to buy a horse, bring that animal home and find that you have an animal that is out of control, and you don’t know what to do about it. Horses have a tendency to try to take advantage of beginners. Trust me, they know! All they have to do is take one look at you, the way you approach them and ride them. Your best defense is knowledge. I am not trying to scare you, I am trying to educate and help you to understand that the more knowledge you have about horses, the more success you will have with them. Please don’t be afraid to enter into the wonderful world of horses. It is a fun place to be and learning about horses is the best part as it is never ending. Most of the riding horses out there are sound, quiet animals. They have a lot to offer an owner who wants to know, love, and care for them, as they will gladly return the favor.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison,that will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my YouTube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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It can be both difficult and scary to work with horses at certain times since they can occasionally have bad behaviors that make them either annoying or unsafe to be around. Some bad behaviors can include biting, kicking, pushing, bucking or rearing. In order to reduce the likelihood of these bad behaviors you need to develop a solid foundation to establish your leadership over the horse. Consider some helpful horse training tips that can help you overcome bad horse behaviors.

Have a Good Lead

A horse can only lead well if they respect you. A well-led horse will follow you from just a short distance at the shoulder. It is best to lead a horse from the left so the horse is just to your right with the tip of their nose at your shoulder. The horse shouldn’t be allowed to pull the rope or have it drag on the ground. The horse definitely shouldn’t rush in front of you. When the rope starts to drag simply stop and ask for the horse to backup. This way the horse begins to understand there is a cost for his behavior. If the horse is moving past you then you simply need to change directions so you remain in front of the horse and maintain your leadership position over the horse.

Keep Your Horse Relaxed

You should never forget that horses are prey animals. This means they are constantly on the lookout for threats. If a horse is tense and holding up their head then they are likely trying to detect a threat. A horse is relaxed when their head is low, this means they are likely looking for food. It is best to be train your horse to become relaxed on cue by lowering their head.

Use a Round Pen

This is a valuable horse training tip and it can truly help you establish your leadership position. It is best to do this without the use of tools such as a lead line or halter. Rather you should simply get your horse to do what you want based on your body language and presence. There are plenty of techniques you can choose from that help you to get a horse to trust and respect you.

Make Sure They Pay Attention

It is important that you make sure you horse pays attention to you. When your horse starts to look off in the distance during training sessions then you should bump them with the rope in order to have their nose come towards you and have their eyes focused on you. Pay attention to your horses ears to see if they are acting like radar dishes and searching for nearby threats. If both ears are straightforward then the horse is completely focused on you. Make sure you correct your horse whenever their full attention isn’t focused on you.

Don’t Jump In

Before riding your horse take the time to go through exercises in order to make sure your horse is listening to you. This can include exercises such as flexing and having them move their hindquarters and front feet. As long as your horse is focused on you, they won’t be as likely to look off into the distance for a nearby threat. When you apply the training tips mentioned in this article then you will be able to develop a solid foundation for your horse that focuses on gentle leadership focused on respect. When your horse respects you and views you as a leader then they will be less likely to express bad behaviors.

Sheryll Walker is a horse training enthusiast, helping numbers of people to learn secrets of training horses. To discover more helpful horse training tips and learn about natural horse training, visit HorseTrainingHelp.com. Out Now! Get your hand on the “Natural Horsemanship” DVDs!

Author: Sheryll Walker
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Or a durable light horse?

I’m moving to Maine in the future, and the winters are awfully cold. I understand that a draft horse is not a ballerina when it comes to riding, but I’m a devoted horse girl and I want to have 2 or 3 horses that are tolerant of Maine winters.