Posts Tagged ‘many horses’

How do you know if your horse has a hole in his training? Does he give you any resistance when you ask him for something? That something could be moving sideways from your leg or softening his jaw to your hands or giving you nice up and down transitions. These are just several examples of basic training holes that many horses have.

It is important to know how to fix the problem, or in this case to plug the training hole. In order to correct the holes in your horse’s training, he needs to have a good foundation. That is where ground work comes in. Ground work is the foundation upon which all riding is built upon. Every discipline uses ground work to some extent. It is part of the basics your horse needs to understand to be ridden well. It is similar to school, where you can’t move on to the next grade UNTIL you pass the previous grade. In this article we will talk why it is bad to have holes in your horses training and then in later articles will go over several holes and how to fix them.

Having a horse with holes in his training is dangerous for these reasons: safety, horses monetary value deteriorates, your relationship suffers and you can’t progress in training. These are just several of the reasons why good training is important. But knowing how to fix the holes and improve your horse’s behavior is especially important to your long term relationship with your horse.

Safety is the number one most important reason why you should be able to have your horse’s attention on you at all times. Your horse needs to be able to respect you and look to you for guidance. Especially in a situation where you are around other people and horses. Horses can be very dangerous without intending to be dangerous. They weight roughly 1000 pounds, and we as people weigh a fraction of that. Horses consider us part of their “herds” and don’t realize that we are not the same size. So for the safety of us, and everyone around us it is your number one priority to always be in “control” of your horse. Otherwise someone else can be injured or worse.

Another reason to fix your horse’s training is because monetary value declines. A trained horse has a higher value than an untrained horse. And a horse that has training issues is worth even less. Invest your time and effort in the best training you can do for your horse. Not only will it improve his monetary value, but you will also improve your relationship with him. This will in turn increase your level of satisfaction and fulfillment.

Another aspect of your horse having holes in his training is your relationship with him will deteriorate. If your horse has poor training that includes large holes, you will be less inclined to spend time with him. Which will in turn decrease your level of satisfaction. This can also cause you to be afraid of your horse, as well as teach him many bad habits. Reinforcing the bad habit also erodes the relationship you have with your horse, as well as deteriorates any respect he may have for you. As the respect declines so will his behavior. And this goes back to the safety paragraph. Anytime we handle a horse we are training it; you are either reinforcing good habits or bad habits. When you reinforce all of the good habits, everyone will be happier.

The last reason that I will discuss here is moving forward with his training. When you have holes in the training you can’t move beyond the hole. For example, if your horse does not perform trot transitions well, then how can you move on to the canter or any more difficult training? The trot transitions need to be fixed before you move on to higher levels of training. Otherwise, at some point your foundation will crumble and the horse will start having issues because he doesn’t understand what you are asking for. You don’t want your horse to start having issues, as this is dangerous. This is when your horse can inadvertently injure someone or himself.

All in all, you need to have a solid base of groundwork in order to move up in training. This is what allows you to teach your horse more difficult training. By having solid ground work training you can always go back to it if your horse has a hard time understanding more difficult work. It will benefit you and your horse for many years to come, and should not be skimped on.

Editor’s Note: Based in Sugar Grove, Sara McKiness is a Certified Horse Trainer who helps riders improve their communication with horses without punishment. She graduated valedictorian from Meredith Manor International Equestrian Center (MMIEC) where she majored in teaching and training, and minored in Farrier Science.

Questions or comments can be sent to sara @ horselogic.net

Horse Logic 2010

Classical Dressage, Western, and Hunt Seat Lessons. Come ride exceptional & experienced lesson horses. Based in Sugar Grove IL with travel to your facility available. Learn better communication with your horse and build your relationship. Fully insured with over 18 years riding experience. Contact Sara for more information 630-631-2746

Sara McKiness
Horse Logic
St. Charles, IL
630-631-2746
sara@horselogic.net
http://www.horselogic.net

Author: Sara McKiness
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Guest blogger

The maintenance routine will include frequently spreading manure droppings or picking them up. Horses can wear bald patches in the ground. This typically occurs in wet weather. A useful economic tip is to spread seeds that fall from the hay onto the bald patches. This will take care of those patches with new grass in season for your horses.

Maintaining your horse pasture with a variety of grasses should be your goal for good care. Safe herbs and other plants can also be included. Some horses enjoy eating blackberries which contain vitamin C. Brambles may be left in hedges many horses enjoy eating the young leaves of these plants. Dandelions are another highly nutritious plant for horses. They are also easy to seed. Good edible plants should be encouraged in your horse pasture.

Routine pasture inspection is practical horse care. Make sure all fences are in good repair. Carefully check for any poisonous plants frequently. Most people do not have the knowledge to identify poisonous plants in their horse pasture. If you are not familiar enough with the poisonous plants for the area where you live to readily identify them, purchase a good photographic guide to poisonous plants. Inspections for these plants should take place often because seeds from these plants can blow in and sprout anytime.

Here is a list of plants using their common names that may reduce the quality of your horse pasture and those that are unsafe for horses. If you find them in you horse grazing area take care that they are removed.

• Beech – Beech mast or the fruit is poisonous to horses.
• Box – This plant is often used as a hedge for gardens.
• Bracken – This plant is not usually eaten by horses. It should be pulled up and burned because it wastes valuable grazing and spreads.
• Buttercups – Horses usually do not eat this plant but weed killers can change the taste and they may be eaten then.
• Daffodil – If growing wild can be eaten.
• Deadly night shade – Can be eaten by horses that browse a hedgerow accidentally.
• Foxglove – Not usually eaten but it commonly grows in paddocks.
• Hemlock – The whole plant is deadly. Young shoots appearing in spring are sometimes eaten.
• Holly – The poisonous berries are at times eaten.
• Horse chestnut – Horses can not eat the fruit of this plant but they can eat the leaves.
• Ivy – This plant seems to do no harm is small quantities but not eaten in large amounts.
• Laburnum – If this plant is near a grazing area it should be removed, normally it is only grown in gardens.
• Oak – Consuming large amounts can cause colic in a horse and could be fatal. Sometimes a horse may crave acorns and in this case the acorns must be swept up and removed or select another pasture for the horse to graze.
• Oleander – This plant is deadly to both humans and horses. It is often used as an ornamental plant. Do not pasture a horse near this plant.
• Privet – This plant is poisonous to horses. It is commonly used as a hedge.
• Ragwort – This plant should be pulled up and burned. It can be fatal to horses.
• Yew – Poisoning from this plant happens quickly. Horses can be found dead with the plant still in its mouth.

When you are able to keep your horse in a pasture it is the best way to let him get exercise while grazing. At http://www.horse-central.com you can find information that can help you learn more about keeping your horse pastures safe and other ways to care for your horse.

Author: Fran Mullens
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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How many horses run at a time in a race? Which horse race (that you can bet on) has the least number of horses running?

Whether you live in the balmy south or frigid northern slopes, you may wonder when, or if, you should provide your horse with equine clothing. Pasture horses with easy access to shelter from wind and precipitation, whether liquid or frozen, seldom need a wardrobe to keep them comfortable and healthy. Many horses do need a little help, especially when you try to keep their winter hair coat to a minimum. Here are blanketing tips that cover most of the basics.

For horses with adequate shelter let nature handle the matter. Be sure to provide a place your horse can stay dry and out of the wind. If you have a horse that has not wintered with you before, make sure they grow an adequate hair coat. Sometimes it takes a year for a horse to get acclimated to a drastic change in climate – or from the show barn to the pasture.

Why blanket a horse?

The first thing to understand is how a horse stays warm in cold weather. The long hairs of a winter coat create an air layer providing insulation against the cold. The only reason to put a blanket on your horse is if they do not have an adequate hair coat to properly insulate. So, we blanket horses because they do not have winter coats.

Blanketing itself does little to retard hair growth. The amount of continual light the horse is under each day determines whether or not they grow a winter coat. For horses stalled under lights, blankets are necessary because the horse is prevented from growing their own insulating layer.

Don’t blanket a horse with a good winter coat

Putting a blanket on a horse with a good winter coat is actually counter-productive. The weight of the blanket lays the hair down, eliminating the loft, the air layer of natural insulation. If you know what “hat hair” is, where your hair is pasted down by the weight of your hat, that is what a blanket does to a longhaired horse. If you put a blanket on you have to leave it on until it gets warm enough for the horse to get their own coat fluffy again.

When should the blanket come off?

You must balance the amount of hair your horse has with the temperature to determine how heavy a blanket to use and when to take if off daily. For horses with thin hair coats, you may need to remove the blanket and put on a sheet to keep them comfortable during the day if it warms up. The test is to have a heavy enough cover to keep the horse warm but never hot.

When in doubt, put your hand under the blanket at the horse’s shoulder. If your horse feels warm you need to get the blanket off! Never, never let a horse sweat under a sheet or blanket.

Many times it is good to dress horses like people do, in layers. It makes sense for stalled horses with slick coats to wear a sheet under a blanket. The blanket goes on and off as the temperature changes. If you have medium weight blankets and experience an unusually cold period you can add a light sheet over your blanket to tide you over until the weather moderates. Whenever possible, every horse should have part of each day free of blankets to let them exercise and air out.

What kinds of blankets are best?

There is a huge variety of blankets available today. My favorites have a nylon lining to keep the coat slick and shiny. Kersey or wool linings tend to scuff up the hair. The three most important things to keep in mind are:

1. Proper fit (including strap adjustment)
2. Proper weight
3. Elastic straps

Blankets and sheets must fit well around the neck, not bind at the shoulder and be long enough to cover the top of the tail. I would not use any blanket without rear leg straps.

All of my blankets have been modified so they accept elastic leg straps with snap ends. The most frequent repair done to blankets is replacing rear straps. You will reduce potential injury to your horse as well as future repair bills by buying blankets with removable rear leg straps.

To fit the blanket properly be sure there isn’t pressure on the withers or that shoulders are too snug. Another frequent mistake is using a blanket or sheet with an excessively large neck opening. Loose blankets can bind up shoulders and certainly offer little protection to the chest.

If your horse will be pastured or allowed to exercise in their blanket a turnout design is the best choice. Turnout blankets have shoulder gussets that allow your horse freer movement than a blanket with a traditional cut.

Proper strap adjustment

Every horse is different, but here are a few general rules. Crossed rear leg straps help keep the blanket centered on your horse. If the blanket fits properly the leg strap should just barely miss the ground when hanging loose from the back of the horse before attaching.

Rear leg straps that are crossed will be adjusted to a different length than those that don’t cross. Straps must be loose enough for your horse to easily get up and down, but not so loose that they can catch a hock in a strap and cause serious injury. Rear leg straps made of elastic are much more forgiving if not adjusted just perfectly.

The bellyband, surcingle straps or belly strap should hang down about four inches below the horse’s belly when buckled. Again, this is a general rule. Too tight and the blanket may tear or your horse could get cut by the strap (I’ve seen serious lacerations from tight belly straps made from webbing material,) too loose and your horse could hang a hind leg in the belly strap.

Finally, keep your sheets and blankets as clean as possible and in good repair. Even if your blankets don’t get really filthy, if you don’t wash them at least a couple times a year the stitching ends up rotting and you will have to get new ones just because they weren’t cleaned often enough. Horse clothing is expensive. Elastic straps are the number one way to keep blankets in one piece and ready for the next year; washing when necessary is the second.

If you should need to blanket your horse, use that time each day as a special moment to share with your horse. Always brush off dirt and shavings before putting on your horse’s blanket, ending with a good rub. There is just something satisfying about tucking your equine partner in at the end of the day. Happy trails.

Lynn Baber is a Christian writer and retired equine professional. She shares the lessons learned in thirty-five years at the business table and round pen with her clients and readers. Highly credentialed in issues of leadership and most things equine, Lynn has a unique perspective not found elsewhere. Whether the topic is finding balance in your life or training stallions, Lynn brings years of experience to presentations and articles. Lynn latest book is scheduled for release in early 2010. For free “samples” of her new book visit http://AmazingGrays.us or Lynn’s blog at http://LynnBaber.net.

Author: Lynn Baber
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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I hate horse racing, like the ones around the really long tracks, i think it is a cruel sport people put there horses through to just get some money and more horses to race. So, just wondering, how many horses die per year during a race? And i don’t care if the horse was trained, i still think it’s cruel. And I HATE it when they use their whips.

Horses chew, we all know that, but if you’ve ever watched horses out in pasture they’ll perform types of grooming and bonding rituals with their teeth. Take a look sometimes and you’ll notice many times horses standing together while one is almost seemingly biting the flesh of the other. They’ll grab a little bunch of flesh and in a careful way kind of nip away with a little tug of the skin. This is very common and it’s a cooperative event where one horse allows the other. I’m quite sure I wouldn’t discourage such behavior amongst horses.

Now we (humans) come along and from day one we teach our horses- even from babies- not to bite. At the slightest indication the young horse is nipping us we’ll most likely retaliate with a little swat on the horses nose to discourage such a thing.

We spend a lot of time with horses; wouldn’t you suspect perhaps these wonderful sensitive animals would perhaps want to bond with us just as well? They’re practically like family aren’t they? Didn’t the Arab horses of old (maybe still) actually live in the houses of some people? Well yes. So why are we discouraging – well obviously having a horse even a baby horse come up to us and nip us on the neck just doesn’t make life pleasurable to say the least. Ok- so what’s the point, there is one.

The point is I’ve seen and worked with horses that were full of anxiety due to not being allowed to “Bond” with us. The urge for horses to nibble on us in a bonding way I believe is very strong. The point is rather than smacking your horse on the nose discouraging him and pushing him away perhaps we should find a way to be permissive of such horse behavior. But how is the question right? – Are you now thinking that perhaps I let my horses and other horses nibble on me? YES! I DO. I actually feed the side of my hand “Baby finger side” into a horse’s mouth palm facing up.

You’ll be amazed how many horses take the bait and commence with the nibbling. (Insert laughter here).

Here’s an example: I was called out on a job one day to shoe a horse, it was my first appointment with this horse. When I approached I immediately noticed the horse was full of tension and to a degree I’d never seen before. What puzzled me was there was no apparent reason for it, it was just part of his demeanor. Needless to say I was quite surprised by the behavior. To make a long story short when I fed this horse the side of my hand he took it and just practically melted right before my eyes, the tension just nearly completely dissipating. It was obvious this horse had been denied this urge to bond for quite some time, perhaps always.

Now by contrast I have been with other horses that when I encourage the nibbling behavior their reaction is one of almost “Fear” and panic! Obviously residual from being smacked anytime any part of the human body comes in contact with their mouth other than if there is “Food or a Bit” in hand. A pretty sad event when you think about it. The horse has the urge to bond and it gets beaten back by unsuspecting human beings. The horse literally filled with joy.

Ok – here is a word of caution if you’re intending to discover and pursue this for yourself. Some horses are so full of anxiety over being denied this that when you do first start to feed the side of your palm to them they’re going to clamp down quite hard (you must be careful and prepared and go slowly). Just sneak your hand in their mouth for a second and slip it out before they clamp down. And basically most horses will “Snap” the skin of the side of your hand with their teeth. So you’re pulling away slightly as they’re clamping down which causes the snap. They do it in the pasture as well; they pull the skin & snap.

So please be careful – every horse is different, you need to learn how to read them. Obviously I have an advantage because I’m a Farrier and I get to handle a lot of horses.

So should horses be allowed to chew on us? My answer is a resounding “Yes, but in a controlled manner. You’ll have a different horse as a result.

If you liked this story and would like to get your hands on a horseshoeing method that has a 16 year 100% track record “Not One Single Lame Horse” rush and click the website link down below in the Author Bio – do it before you and your horse loose out. Your horse will love you for it.

Thank you, happy riding and remember to Care4Horses.

Reprint rights allowed providing nothing is changed.

Author: John Silveira
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Mobile device news

A horse is just like a human being in many ways. They both can experience pain, pleasure, and contentment. The ways in which they differ is not insignificant, however. Horses can see the world around them very differently. Remember that horses are much more of a herd animal than a unicorn with wings and a lofty purposes. A horse is a horse, after all. When handling any horse, remember to gauge his behavior by horse standards, not human behaviors. Therefore:

Treat your horse fairly. Among the worst approaches to interacting with horses is a lack of fairness in handling the animal. You must not expect the horse to know what you want or when you want it. It takes time. Give a new horse a chance to learn new behaviors, and give experienced horses the chance to maneuver differently. Horses can read emotions very well, but cannot guess what you are thinking. If you are a good employee, but have a new boss with whom you have never worked, would you want to be given a chance to adjust to new circumstances and demands? To develop trust from your horse, please remember to be fair.

Learn to be patient. Some horses can have attitudes like people. Some horses are like one thousand pound toddlers, and like to test your patience and mettle. Some bright horses may even do things purposely to annoy and try you. So although many horses are quick to learn, we humans have been known to be short on patience when dealing with a horse. In time, they will come along to your preferred behaviors. Hang in there.

Be consistent. Consistency is key in any dealing with an animal. If you want stillness in your horse as you attempt to mount, be sure he understands your desire, and gently insist on it every time. Never let your horse walk off when he feels like it. You may teach him that you do not mean what you say and appear to want. Insist upon the result you require each and every time. Horses, like people, are usually good at reading body language and tapping in to your attitude. Send him the right signal consistently.

Be confident around your horse. A horse is easy and quick to pick up on any apprehension and fear you may feel. You want to establish yourself to the horse as its herd leader. If you fail, your intelligent horse may feel the need to take that lead away from you.

Move slowly. Horses are easily to disturb by quick, sudden motions. Waving arms can especially alarm the animal. Move slowly when dealing with a horse, and speak softly as you approach a strange or new horse, especially when you need to approach him from behind his ability to notice you.

Avoid loud noises. Yelling or loud screams of children are sure ways to upset a new horse. If you must use a louder than normal volume of voice, reserve it for correcting the behavior of the horse. A brief, louder “Hey!” or “Quit!” is all it should take to get the horse’s attention. Otherwise, use a gentle, soothing voice when riding or working near a horse.

Try not to ride or handle your horse when you are angry. To protect your horse (and sometimes your investment), avoid your horse if it is a very bad day for you. True, spending time with your horse can really turn a bad day around, yet some horses know how to push your buttons, and make a bad day worse. It is easy to let your anger find its way through your motions around the horse, but they never deserve to receive the brunt of your anger.

Try to maintain a positive attitude. Lots of horse owners think horses are emotionally psychic, and can read our minds. Actually, I would like to limit that belief to reading human emotions. If you are afraid your horse will spook, he may well do just that from feeling your lack of confidence. It does not matter if your horse reads your emotions or is just adept at reading body language. Thinking positively and acting with ease and confidence will help you to visualize the kind of success you wish to have in your riding experience.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Although some horses (like some people) have the good fortune to die peacefully in their sleep of old age, most horses will eventually reach a stage (due to severe injury, disease or incapacity) where the most humane action is to put them down. For the horse owner, this can be a very difficult and painful decision, in terms of when a horse should be put down, as well as how. This article is the personal view of one horse owner on this subject.

Is Now the Time?

If a horse is in a lot of pain and distress, due to an incurable injury or disease, the only correct action is to put it down as quickly and as humanely as possible. However, in some cases the decision is not as clear.

For example, a horse may be in permanent pain but quite capable of happily living with it. This was the case of a draft horse pensioned with us, who had a chronic case of laminitis which made walking painful (especially over hard surfaces). As an elderly horse, he also had dental issues which made chewing uncomfortable. However, by supplementing his diet with soft food and giving him maximum time on soft pasture, his discomfort was minimised. He was a stoic horse, who seemed little bothered by pain, and obviously enjoyed life. He would trot around the pasture with his head held high and come to us for cuddles. Although retired, he was active in the pasture and obviously enjoyed life despite the constant pain in his feet and when he ate.

For me, the question is not how much pain the horse is in, but rather is he still happy and enjoying life. One can tell this not only by how the horse behaves at the moment, but also how his behavior has changed in response to injury or illness. When life changes from a pleasure to a burden, that is the time for the horse to be put down.

Economic Constraints

Aside from illness and disease, many horses are put down for financial reasons, such as:

• Competitive Horses. Many horses are bred and raised for competitions (e.g. racing), with the vast majority of these not making the grade. The ones which are not fast enough are often either put down, or sold for slaughter, or sold into questionable circumstances.
• Elderly Horses. Older horses, having reached the end of their productive life (e.g. riding), leave the owner with a decision between putting the horse down or paying for an expensive (and potentially lengthy) retirement.
• Medical Costs. Injuries and illnesses can be very expensive. For example, a severe case of colic which requires surgery can cost $10 000, with no guarantee that the treatment will be successful. With the average horse costing $3000 or less (in many cases, much less), horse owners of limited financial resources face a difficult decision.

Although the economic pressures are real, there are alternatives:

• Rescue Organisations. There are numerous horse rescue organisations, which will find new homes for horses young and old. Some of them will even take on medical costs. Your local veterinarian is a good source to ask, not only for the large organisations but also for the smaller ones and the local private activities.
• New Owners. Although a horse may have no apparent economic value, there may still be many potential alternative owners that would be happy to provide it a new home. For example, people which have purchased a horse for their private use recognise that they need a second horse as a companion to the first. For this purpose, even an old or unusable horse may be perfectly suitable. There are a number of websites where one can advertise horses for this and similar purposes, often free of charge.

One may not always be able to find a solution for every horse. However, before putting down a horse which is still enjoying its life, remember that there are alternatives.

How

When your horse has reached the point where it needs to be put down, the question is no longer ‘when’ but rather ‘how’.

The normal methods are by injection (sedative overdose) or by a slaughter gun which fires a bolt directly into the brain. In both cases, this should be done by a professional. In particular, the use of a slaughter gun should be done by an experienced person, as inexperienced people have been known to shoot the horse without killing it on first attempt, resulting in terrible pain until the mistake can be corrected. Whatever one might see in western movies, the use of a hunting gun is highly questionable, due to the risk that the bullet may not penetrate the thick skill and immediately end the horse’s life.

If the horse is at home when the decision is make, it is kindest to the horse to put it down there (e.g. have a veterinarian come out and give a lethal injection). If the horse is severely injured or ill, transport to another location adds to its suffering. Furthermore, unfamiliar surroundings may cause it distress (particularly if taken to a slaughterhouse, where the horse may panic in response to the smell of blood). The main obstacle to this approach is the difficulty of transporting the body afterwards, so prior to putting a horse down one needs to consider whether it is necessary to first move it to a more practical location.

For personal safety, if the horse is standing up, one needs to either lie it down prior to euthanasia or be careful that nobody becomes trapped under the horse if it falls while being euthanized. Professionals (e.g. a veterinarian) should have the experience and sufficient detachment to consider such practicalities.

Unless one personally knows and trusts the person performing the euthanasia, one should remain with the horse until the end, to ensure that your wishes in this regard are properly carried out. For example, it has been known for professional slaughter staff to transport horses to the location which is most convenient for them, even though it meant additional suffering for the animal. Staying with your horse allows you to ensure that your horse ends its life with minimum distress.

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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