Posts Tagged ‘many different types’

Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of your first horse. It’s time to either move your new responsibility to a boarding stable or to your own farm. There are many horsemen who will haul your horse for a reasonable price. However, although they may be slightly higher in price, there are also many hauling companies nationwide that usually have very large horse vans that may be better equipped to move your new family member. Either way, the best advice would be to spend a little more money for a reputable hauler as they usually provide very experienced drivers.

If you are looking to purchase your own trailer for hauling, you have many companies to choose from as well as many different types. There are two, three, four and six horse trailers and so on. You can get the standard trailer with horses walking straight into the trailer, or slant trailers where the horses are loaded on a slant, or vans that the horses can walk up into and are backed into the stall, and basically they are facing each other as they travel. Keep in mind that hauling this animal is probably the most unnatural thing you will do with your horse. If you find that your horse is not good with hauling, then you must approach this problem carefully. Having a trailer with a ramp instead of a step up trailer is to your advantage in this situation. Some horses love to go for a ride, and of course, some don’t. Some horses will, with patience and a small amount of encouragement, enter a trailer fairly quickly. Some horses will be reluctant to leave their environment and their friends and will be much more difficult and sometimes become quite angry. In these cases, make sure you have an experienced horse person to help you. Sometimes it may be necessary to load another horse, who does not mind getting onto a trailer, temporarily, in order to convince the stubborn horse that it is alright to go on. As soon as the reluctant horse goes onto the trailer, you will have to unload the decoy horse quickly, lock and secure the ramps and doors immediately, and start on your way. Leaving a horse or horses standing in a trailer for more than a minute or two can be asking for trouble, especially with a horse who did not want to leave in the first place. This time frame goes both ways for getting them into the trailer, and getting them off as quickly as possible.

Some horses are claustrophobic and will be much more willing to load on a larger van. If you cannot get your horse loaded on a smaller type trailer, you may have to postpone your move to another day and consider a larger van as an option. Keeping in mind that a horse’s body temperature is higher than ours, normally between 101 degrees to 102 degrees, as horses will start to sweat quickly once placed in the trailer. As you move off, the air passing through the open windows in the trailer will help to keep them cool. It is a good practice to put shipping bandages on your horse, but by an experienced horse person, as bandages too tight or too loose are dangerous. Learning to bandage the legs of a horse is fairly simple and with practice, under experienced instruction, can become an easy task.

Driving a trailer or van is a very big responsibility, not just because of the equipment being used, but also for the precious cargo that is depending on you to get them to their destination safely. TAKE YOUR TIME. Going too fast and having to stop suddenly could be a disaster. Going too fast around the turns can cause the horse to be thrown around in the trailer and step on themselves causing injury to their legs or coronet bands, especially if they have shoes on or if their legs are not protected by shipping bandages. You always want each and every hauling experience to be a pleasant one. Also, make sure you have quality hay for them to munch on during their journey, either in a hanging hay rack or the hay sacks provided in the trailer. If you and your horse are about to head out on a long journey, make sure you have a water bucket and a large amount of water in a container so you can offer your horse water at stops every few hours. Remember, dehydration can be deadly.

In the future, I will be coming back to articulate on different aspects of hauling vehicles and problem horses that refuse to load. Patience and understanding is priority when transporting horses.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my YouTube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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If you are new to horse ownership, or are looking to purchase new clothing or accessories for your horse, then you need not fear. There are many different accessories and horse wear to choose from, and many different types of each too, after reading about them you will definitely know what you need!

The most common horse clothing purchased is horse rugs, horse bridles, and horse saddles. Of course, there are a lot more to buy, but these are a few of the main pieces. There are different types of each of these, which means you should read about what each one is used for before getting them, because you may end up with the wrong one!

Horse rugs are named so because they are just like rugs, but they are for the horse to wear. Horse rugs, depending on which you use, can benefit either (or both) the horse, and the rider. There are 4 main types of Horse rugs, and some similar to these types, but they are anti-sweat rugs, fly rugs, stable rugs, and turnout rugs.

The anti-sweat rug is made of cotton mesh, and is used to help the process of the horse cooling down, after an event of some sort such as a competition. An anti-sweat rug is also sometimes used to protect he horse from insect irritation. The fly rug is made of fine mesh, and it is very light in weight. Fly rugs are often used for preventing fly irritation, as they are designed for, but also sometimes used to prevent sun burns, bleaching of the fur, and similar threats. The fly rug may also include a flap to protect the horses stomach area.

The stable rug is a non-outdoor rug, primarily used to keep the horse clean. Stable rugs are made with a padded synthetic material, thus meaning that they are not waterproof. This rug allows the horse to move around freely and is breathable. The last common rug mentioned, the turnout rug, is made with material which means that it is waterproof as long as you reproof it occasionally. The turnout rug is designed to keep the horse warm in the winter, and to also keep the horse clean. Although it is very lightweight, it is also very feeble, this means if the horse is in an environment with sharp objects, or a lot of branches etc., the rug may easily be ripped.

The horse bridle is a leather tack to keep the accessories on the horse, and to keep the rider in control. The two common bridles for horses are English bridles and Western bridles.

The English bridle is commonly a more stylish bridle used mostly for shows, competitions, etc. The Western bridle is usually used for training or general use. Which bridle used is up to the rider; however, the type of bridle you use should depend on what accessories you are going to use/attach.

When it comes to riding your horse, you are not going to want to sit on the horses bare back, unless you are a fool! This is why you need a saddle, or more than one saddle for that matter. Having the right saddle for your event will enable you the best assurance that you are secure sitting on the horse. Every saddle has a different purpose, which is why when you get a saddle, you may not want to use it for everything you do with the horse.

The Australian stock saddle is a saddle that specializes in comfort for both the rider and the horse. A reining saddle would be a light alternative if you do not want to put much pressure on you or your horse. For a wider-back horse you may want the treeless saddle, or if you want a deep saddle to be securely seated on the horse you may want the dressage saddle. If you have a racing bred horse then you may want a racing saddle, or if you are taking your horse for jumps, on a training session or competition, then you could need an all-purpose English saddle. However, if you just need a saddle for general purpose, or to bond the horse and rider with each other, etc., then you probably want a Western saddle.

After reading this entire article, you should have a general idea on what horse wear (rugs, saddles and bridles) you are going to want or require. Having the right gear can benefit both you and your horse, help keep your horse healthy or improve the horses performance in a race, or competition.

If you are involved with the equine world, chances are you’re familiar with most of the horse wear that is needed to make your horse look well-dressed. You can also find a wide variety of riding wear for yourself.

Author: Karlo Quiambao
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horses are very useful and trainable animals. They can me used for a limitless variety of tasks such as farming, sports, recreation, and even warfare. Their tremendous strength and endurance are very valuable attributes. Not only are they gifted with tremendous physical qualities but they are also intelligent and very receptive to human commands. Beginner horse training can be fun for both you and your equine companion. There are many different types of horse training techniques, so make sure you are knowledgeable about whatever you choose to apply.

Horses can even be trained in specialized tasks and they thrive in any work they are assigned to do. They can do police work, and they can also be graceful animals for royalty and equestrian activities. They can also be used on farms and in the wilderness. Horses are incredibly versatile animals. They are functional as well as exquisite. Not to mention the fact that they love to please.

However, training a horse can be a real challenge especially for beginners and new horse owners. First and foremost, to be able to train a horse well, the individual must understand how the horse thinks and always — I mean always — consider the animal’s instincts! As animals, instincts always reign above any training or conditioning. Having said that, a horse can be trained quickly and easily when you understand their innate behavior and work with the animal to achieve the desired success. Here are a few tips to help your beginner horse training to move along more smoothly.

1. Horses are fearful creatures

By instinct of preservation, horses are naturally fearful creatures. Because they are a prey animal, they may exhibit reservation with other animals and people in new situations. If the horse doesn’t know you, it will judge you based on your actions, before finally deciding that you are not someone with bad intentions. It bases its decisions on your body language and believe it or not, your thoughts, and will respond accordingly based on what it perceives. The horse will either flee, embrace your friendship or study you further.

2. Gradual training is essential

One must understand that it takes a while for horses to warm up. Training often needs to be a gradual process. You must learn how to tame the horse correctly and effectively. Like dogs, horses must see its trainer as its leader — gender is rarely an issue. It should be noted that some horses are natural leaders, therefore, dominant. If you own one with such characteristic, training can be a bit tougher. Make sure you are asserting dominance at all times. Tough love can be the best thing for both of you till you structure the pecking order of the “herd”.

3. Horses are herd animals

Horses are herd animals and they naturally function in this manner. They will always want someone to lead them. Remember to speak their language in your training. This will speed up the process immensely. Do your own due diligence on the language of equus and natural horsemanship.

4. Riding the horse is not the first step

Before actually riding the horse, you must do some ground work and training. There is no shortcut especially for beginners. Longing and bending is a must at first. Teach commands while longing before putting your rear on the saddle. A horse must be body-aware and desensitized. If you want to get bucked off, skip your groundwork.

5. Proper manners on lead

Lead training is absolutely necessary. A horse MUST display manners with humans on the ground. Teach the horse to walk beside on a lead while giving it basic commands like to turn or stop. Some horses will test your dominance during lead training. It is vital to let the animal know who’s boss.

6. Warm-up the horse before riding

Even with a horse that is already trained, it is still advisable to warm-up your horse physically and mentally before riding it. Do a bit of longing or some exercises in groundword, so the animal will know what to expect.

7. Cooling the animal off

Training sessions must end with a cool down period. Just as with a primed athlete, the animal must be give a chance to settle his muscles. Let the animal relax and wind down. A tired and frustrated horse is very difficult to train. As a rule of the thumb, make every training session a pleasant experience for the horse, always ending on a good note and before the animal has a chance to loose interest. The animal will be happy to learn and do some training again when it knows that the experience is worthwhile. Remember…. Positive reinforcement is a crucial key to success.

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Author: Annabelle Cabella
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Curly horses are horses which have a certain gene, inherited from their parents, which makes their hair curly. Not only their coat, but also other hair (mane, tail, fetlocks, even eyelashes) can be curled. They are becoming increasingly popular for three reasons:

• Hypoallergenic. Most people who have an allergy to horses find that they have no allergy to curly horses or have a reduced allergic reaction.
• Appearance. The appearance of these horses, due to the curls or waves in their coat, is not only unusual but many people find it exceptionally attractive.
• Temperament. These horses are reputed to be particularly calm, sensible and intelligent. As such they are especially suited to children and for therapy.

Although the genes which produce curly hair are relatively uncommon among horses, they are found in many different types of horse, from miniatures to standard sized to draft horses. These horses also vary in color and build.

The nature of the curl also varies from horse to horse. In some cases it consists of large, heavy curls but in others it is smaller curls or even fine pin curls. It may even be waves. In some cases, the hair is straight as in a normal horse (no sign of curl), but the horse is still considered a ‘curly horse’ because it is descended from curly horse parents and retains other characteristics such as being hypoallergenic even though it does not display the characteristic curly coat.

Consequently, there is tremendous variety in this group of horses. Curly breeders and associations are still working on defining the breed standard and implementing a breeding program based on this standard, in order that curly horses can be bred towards a standard type (one of the requirements for being recognized as an official breed). Therefore, if you thinking of buying a curly horse, the first thing to keep in mind is that there is no standard appearance for curly horses, so you need to look around to determine the type (size, color and amount of curl) which most appeals to you.

When choosing a curly, also keep in mind that the extent of the curl changes with age and also with season (it is most pronounced in winter). In summer, the hair is not only less curled, but is also shorter and thinner; in some cases the manes and tail hair are extremely short. If appearance is very important, before making your final decision you should see what the horse looks like (even if just from photos) in both winter and summer. You should also check the bloodline which the horse is from as an indication of how the coat will change as it ages (the nature of the changes vary from bloodline to bloodline).

If you are choosing a curly because these horses are hypoallergenic, be aware that the extent of this quality varies from horse to horse and that the benefit varies from person to person. Consequently, any combination of horse and person may exhibit no allergy, a reduced allergy, or the usual horse allergy. Therefore, one should test the person with the horse to determine the extent of the benefit. If one has extreme allergic reactions, take medical advice on how to do this test safely.

Unlike other horses, these horses are normally not clipped for show purposes. This is because, unlike most breeds, its winter coat is considered particularly attractive and its distinguishing characteristic. Curly horses are also known as Bashkir Curlies, American Bashkir Curlies, or North American Curly Horses

Doug Stewart writes articles on Horse Care and other horse topics such as this Curly Horse description.

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Spending time with your horse not only enables a close bond to develop between you both, but it also enables you to learn how your horse responds to situations and how they are in themselves. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A happy horse will generally appear calm and be responsive to you. He will keep a low head, relaxed jaw and have soft eyes. A happy horse will seek affection from you and show respect by not invading your personal space. When a horse yawns this is not a sign of being bored, but a sign that he is calm and relaxed. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. When a horse is anxious, you must let him settle in his own time without trying to force the issue – otherwise he could end up feeling trapped and even more stressed.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. You should perform regular inspections of your horse’s teeth, eyes, hooves and shoes as well as keeping an eye on his droppings. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. It is also important that your vet has regular worming and vaccination appointments set with you. If you rotate medications you stand a better chance of killing off as many different types of worms and parasites as possible and also giving less time for them to build immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. It is important that your horse is vaccinated against rhinoneumonitis, influenza and encephalitis. Tetanus and rabies are also advisable, but not essential. If you are a regular with the horse trailers at horse shows etc, your horse may need to show a negative Coggins test, which is for a serious equine virus called equine infectious anaemia (EIA) for which there is no cure or treatment.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. It is important for your horse’s comfort, mood and performance that you do not allow his feet to get too long and unbalanced. Your horse will need his hooves trimmed by a farrier at least every eight weeks; sometimes more often is necessary.

Your horse will need a blanket or coat during the wet and cold winter months and during the summer, a fly protective horse sheet or mask is advisable. If your horse is prone to lathering during or after exercise then it may be best to use a horse cooler until he has calmed down. Drinking water directly after exercise could put a horse’s body into shock. When you have been exercising your horse, allow him to cool down sufficiently before a meal. After eating you should give your horse at least an hour before exercise.

Horses need to have a purpose, whether it is riding, showing, therapy, carriages or dray. Horses love to be needed. It is important for a horse’s sense of purpose and focus that he receives regular praise – especially when young – for performing simple tasks such as simply standing still or in the right place. As horses are naturally inquisitive animals, they will become more brave, positive and confident the more new experiences you introduce to them.

A horse is a beautiful and magnificent creature that deserves a good home for life with excellent care. As a horse owner you have a responsibility to provide the best healthcare possible for your equine companion.

Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. Providing the very best for your horse will reap you the rewards of love, loyalty and devotion from your equine companion.

Compare or buy AFI Horse Insurance online – Professional Horse and Rider equine insurance specialist. We take your horses insurance seriously

Author: Stephanie Andrew
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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There are many different types of horse rugs, with various characteristics and functions. Therefore, the first step to choosing a horse rug is to decide which type you require for your horse. To assist you in this decision, following is a list of the main types of rugs and an explanation of their function:

• Fly Rug. The purpose of this is to protect the horse from flies that bite or sting. They are more commonly and accurately referred to as ‘fly sheets’ rather than ‘fly rugs’, as they are typically a thin plastic sheet or mesh, rather than a fabric rug. One can also get ‘fly masks’, which are made out of the same material and are intended to protect the head (especially the eyes and ears) from flies. As they are a thin sheet they provide little warmth or insulation, although some can provide protection from wind and rain.

• Turnout rugs. These are intended to provide insulation (warmth), to protect horses when they are outside. The amount of warmth depends largely on the amount of insulation, which is typically measured in terms of weight rather than thickness. Consequently, rugs with a moderate amount of insulation are referred to as Lightweight Turnout Rugs, while those intended for maximum warmth are known as Heavy Turnout Rugs. Some turnout rugs are resistant or impervious to rain.

• Coolers. Although they may look like some turnout rugs, their purpose is quite different. They are intended to help the horse dry by ‘wicking’ moisture away from its coat, and at the same time protecting the horse from cooling while wet (a wet horse can quickly become chilled if it is exposed to cold and/or wind while it has a wet coat). They are typically used after exercise, when the weather is cool or windy, and removed once the horse has dried off. These are also known as ‘sweat rugs’.

• Rain sheets. These are typically a thin sheet, with little or no insulation. It is intended to keep the horse dry and can also provide protection from the wind.

• Stable rugs. Also known as ‘stable blankets’, these are similar to turnout rugs in that they provide warming insulation, but are intended to be used when the horse is stabled rather than when it is outside.

• Saddle rugs. A saddle rug (also known as a ‘saddle pad’) is placed under the saddle. It provides cushioning between the saddle and the horse, which protects the horse from the relatively hard saddle and at the same time protects the saddle from being rubbed down by the horse. As the horse tends to sweat under the saddle rug, due to the combination of exercise and the warming insulation provided by the saddle rug, some have built in ‘wicking’ materials to help remove the sweat from the coat.

• Show rugs. A show rug is placed between the saddle and the saddle rug. It is a relatively thin but colourful rug whose main function is look attractive. As it has little or no other practical purpose, it is typically used only during exhibitions or competitions.

• Summer rugs. More commonly known as ‘summer sheets’, these are thin sheets intended to keep dirt off of the horse’s coat (e.g. if it rolls or lies down).

• New Zealand rugs. A turnout rug which is made of waxed canvas. It provides limited warmth but protects well from wind and rain (provided that it is re-waxed as required) and is relatively resistant to damage due to the strong canvas material.

• Riding rugs. It provides protection from the weather but is designed to be worn by the horse when it is being ridden.

Of these various types of horse rugs, perhaps the most commonly used is the turnout rug. The most important factor when choosing this type of rug is to select a rug of the appropriate warmth. Keep in mind that a horse which is too hot can be as uncomfortable as one which is too cold. Furthermore, a rug will discourage the growth of the coat and if too warm will actually result in the horse shedding its coat. Consequently, it is important both that the rug is heavy enough to provide necessary warmth but as the same time is not too warm. The warmth which an individual horse requires will depend on various factors:

• Weather. On a cold winter day, one will need a warmer (heavier) turnout rug than on a cool autumn or spring day. If there is wind, additional protection is required due to the wind chill factor. Likewise, if there is heavy rain, the insulation provided by the horse’s coat and by the rug are both reduced, unless they have a rain resistant cover.

• Health and Age. Horses which are young, strong and healthy have less requirement for a warming rug than ones which are not. On a cold day, it may make sense to put a heavy turnout rug on a sick or old horse, when a younger horse in the same field may be fine with a light turnout rug or no rug at all.

• Thickness of coat. A horse with a thick coat will have less need for a rug than one which has a fine coat, or which has been clipped.

• Exhibiting. A horse with a thick coat generally does not look as attractive (in the eyes of most people) as one which has a thinner coat. Consequently, horses being exhibited usually have a rug which is warm enough to discourage growth of their winter coat. Such coats are relatively heavy for the horse’s circumstances, as they need to replace the insulation provided by the natural winter coat rather than merely supplement it. Likewise, summer sheets and show rugs are for the needs of the exhibitor rather than the horse.

• Number of rugs. The above factors will determine the number of rugs required. For example, a young and healthy horse in a mild climate may not require a rug at all and may be happier without one. In a colder climate, a healthy horse may need only a light rug to be used during the coldest days. An elderly or sick horse may need multiple rugs, depending on the situation (e.g. uninsulated waterproof coat for summer rain, lightweight turnout rug for autumn or spring, and a heavy turnout rug for winter).

Once one has decided on the type of rug plus (in the case of warming rugs) the required weight, one can then look at the materials, quality and features which you may require. Some common items and features to consider are:

• Antibacterial. Some rugs are treated to be antibacterial.

• Breathable. Breathable rugs allow sweat to evaporate and air to access the coat, features which make the rug more comfortable and healthier.

• Coverage. Rugs generally cover the body. Some also have neck covers, either as part of the rug or an a detachable extra.

• Friction points: Rugs can rub, especially if worn by active horses or when the horse is working. The main points affected are typically around the shoulders and chest. To prevent this, some rugs have anti-friction fabric at these points to allow the rug to easily slide and move without rubbing the coat.

• Hooks, loops, buckles, straps and attachments. These should be strong, easily opened and closed, and firmly attached.

• Insulation. The amount of insulation is typically expressed in grams per square meter. For example, a ’300g’ rug has 300 grams of insulation per square meter of rug. The actual rug will weigh more than this, as this is only the weight of the insulation itself and does not include the weight of fabric, straps or buckles. In general, the heavier the weight, the warmer the rug. However, this is not a precise measurement as there are different types of insulation, which vary in terms of quality and effectiveness.

• Rain. A rug may be unsuitable for rain, or be rain resistant, or rain proof.

• Tear Resistant or Rip Stop. Rugs may use fabrics or weaves which are resistant to tearing, and in the event of a tear resist the tear becoming larger.

• Washing. Machine washable rugs are more convenient.

• Wicking. Remove sweat and moisture from the coat.

Once you have decided on the above, your requirements should be well defined in terms of type of rug, amount of warmth required and the various features which you would like. At this point, it is mainly down to quality and price. As in most things, you get what you pay for, so the better quality rugs are correspondingly more expensive. If your budget is limited, or you will only use the rug infrequently, then an inexpensive rug may be appropriate. However, if your horse will be using the rug frequently, it is usually worth investing in a better quality rug which will last. In addition, if your horse is active or frequently rolls, it is important to choose a sturdy rug which can resist this use.

Dr. Doug Stewart is the owner of Horse Care and author of articles such as Horse Rugs.

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Spending quality time with your horse is important in allowing a natural bond to develop, as well as allowing you to learn your horses responses and reactions to different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A horse that is calm and responsive is generally happy. They will keep their head lowered, and have soft eyes and a relaxed jaw. By not invading your personal space your horse is showing affection by seeking your love and respect; this is a sign of a happy horse. A horse is not showing he is bored by yawning – rather this is a sign of relaxation and calm. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. Allow the horse time to settle himself slowly in order to avoid the onset of “flight” mode and further stress.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. Pay close attention to your horse’s eyes, teeth, shoes and hooves and inspect his droppings regularly. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. Ensure you have made appointments with your equine vet for the administration of vaccinations and worming treatments. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. Vaccinations for encephalitis, rhinoneumonitis and influenza are essential for a healthy horse. Tetanus and rabies are also advisable, but not essential. A negative Coggins test for equine infectious anaemia (EIA) may need to be shown if you regularly use hired trailers for horse events – this is a serious incurable equine virus.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. When your horse’s feet are allowed to get long and unbalanced, it is inevitably uncomfortable and will in time affect the horse’s mood and performance. Your farrier will need to trim your horse’s hooves every six weeks or so.

During wet and cold weather you should provide a blanket or coat for your horse, and in the summer he will need a fly-protective sheet. You may wish to use a horse cooler rug after exercise to help your horse calm and cool down. Drinking water directly after exercise could put a horse’s body into shock. Normal body temperature needs to be regained after exercise and before feeding your horse. Leave it for an hour after meals before exercising your horse.

Horses need to have a purpose, whether it is riding, showing, therapy, carriages or dray. They love to feel useful. It is important for a horse’s sense of purpose and focus that he receives regular praise – especially when young – for performing simple tasks such as simply standing still or in the right place. Introducing new experiences to your horse will help his confidence and satisfy his inherent curiosity.

A horse will be at its happiest when given the very best in love and care that it is possible to give. Before even purchasing a horse you need to be aware of the responsibility you have as a horse owner to provide the best in health care and welfare. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. The rewards to you for providing the very best for your horse are priceless, as they will give love back to you a thousand times over.

Spending quality time with your horse is important in allowing a natural bond to develop, as well as allowing you to learn your horses responses and reactions to different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A happy horse will generally appear calm and be responsive to you. He will keep a low head, relaxed jaw and have soft eyes. Your horse will both show and seek affection and will not invade your personal space – these are signs of a happy horse. Surprisingly, yawning is a sign not of boredom but of relaxation and calm. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. Allow the horse time to settle himself slowly in order to avoid the onset of “flight” mode and further stress.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. It is advisable to check your horse’s teeth, eyes, hooves, shoes and droppings frequently. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. It is also important that your vet has regular worming and vaccination appointments set with you. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. Horses should always be vaccinated for encephalitis, influenza and rhinoneumonitis. Also advisable while not necessarily essential would be vaccinations against tetanus and rabies. Regular users of trailers at show and equestrian events may need to show a negative Coggins test for presence of the incurable virus EIA or equine infectious anaemia.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. A horse’s mood and performance will be adversely affected if his hooves are allowed to get too long as this will cause discomfort and imbalance. The farrier should trim hooves every six to eight weeks or more often if needed.

During wet and cold weather you should provide a blanket or coat for your horse, and in the summer he will need a fly-protective sheet. You may wish to use a horse cooler rug after exercise to help your horse calm and cool down. While it may seem logical to give your horse a drink after exercise, this could in fact put his body into shock. Normal body temperature needs to be regained after exercise and before feeding your horse. Do not exercise your horse for at least an hour after he has finished eating.

Horses are happiest when they know that they have a purpose – this could be showing, jumping or therapy, for example. Horses glory in feeling worthwhile. It is important that your horse has a focus, especially when young and not broken in; a simple praise when they stand still or in the correct place makes them feel that everything is ok. Introducing new experiences to your horse will help his confidence and satisfy his inherent curiosity.

Horses are wonderful creatures that deserve all the love and care you can give. You have a responsibility as a horse owner to provide the very best in care and welfare. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. A horse will show you vast amounts of love in return for the simple effort of attention and care for his well-being.