Posts Tagged ‘legs’

Unfortunately not every horse owner has the luxury of allowing their horses the benefit of unlimited pasture or turnout time. Horses kept in stalls most of the day can sometime develop a vice such as weaving. When a horse weaves he or she is standing in place but weaves its head and neck back and forth as it rocks from side to side. This can cause stress on the horse’s legs and may cause lameness to occur. Sometime horses that weave can lose weight or become physically exhausted caused by their weaving. The horses do not have a problem but are responding to a problem instead.

Behaviors such as weaving are usually only seen in horses where there environments are bare with no access to grazing forage or horses in confinement with little or no exercise. The horse has a problem it can’t resolve and has no control over the situation. The horse simply responds to its situation by weaving. There have been recent studies in the United Kingdom for horses with this particular behavior. The studies have discovered that placing a mirror in the horse’s stable the horse no longer feels isolated. A specially designed stable mirror is a simple solution.

The study had a high success rate fairly quickly. Research continues to discover if this solution is long term or not. The best solution for the problem is still social interaction with other horses and exercise but this is not always available. In such situations a stable mirror could be the solution. If you choose to try a stable mirror make sure it has been specially designed and constructed specifically for this purpose. Acrylic and glass mirrors can break and injure your horse making them a danger. Highly polished stainless steel mirrors are the best choice.

If a horse does not like other horses and behaves aggressively toward them it could have the same reaction to the mirror. Using a stall mirror can have positive effects for weaving horses rather quickly but with some horses it could take a period of time. Mirrors incorrectly positioned or of the wrong size may cause problems for some horses also. The choice is ultimately up to the horse whether to use the mirror or not.

For other useful and practical information for the horse owner, please go to http://www.wcf-ltd.com/horse

Author: Fran Mullens
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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From the minute your horse steps into a trailer to be transported, he’s completely dependent on you, the horse owner, for his well-being. As a reliable owner, this isn’t anything to be taken lightly. It’s important that you commit every effort to keep your horse secure and healthy while traveling.

When acquiring your trailer, ensure that it’s large enough for your horse. The average sized bumper pull trailer is normally 6 1/2 to 7 feet high. These trailers were intended for average size horses. Should you own a massive horse, consider a bigger trailer that could give your horse sufficient room.

Next, there are many things that you can do to ensure your existing trailer is safe. Check your floors underneath the trailer, especially when you have wood floors. Next, make sure there’s nothing on the interior of the trailer that may poke or scrape your horse. This is particularly important to check in older, steel trailers.

Once you have determined the trailer itself is safe, it’s time to focus on the health and well-being of your horse. If you’re going on a long journey, you might want to provide electrolytes ahead of the trip to help avert dehydration. This is above all essential if you know your horse is usually a nervous traveler. You should also consider wrapping your horse’s legs for a long journey. This puts a stop to scrapes, nicks and different leg injuries. Finally, never forget to tie your horse using a quick release snap or knot. Take a line from your horse stall us it. In the event your horse gets tangled or trapped somehow, these mechanisms will be much easier to release.

But, the safety doesn’t stop there. Make certain your horse and trailer are safe while on your way as well. Double check to make sure your trailer is secured properly to your truck and periodically check your mirrors for any sign of problems. Consistently checking out your horse at rest stops is also a good idea, but never take your horse outside of the trailer to let him eat the grass. Grass in these locations is often treated with chemicals that may quickly poison your horse or cause serious colic. At that point, you might be miles away from any veterinarian or other help. For lengthy trips, plan in advance for safe stops to take your horse outside like a vet, friend’s house or local fairgrounds.

Should you doubt the safety of your trailer or your capability to keep your horse safe while driving, it’s best to not go. If your trailer uses rubber pavers, make sure they are secure. Incidents involving horse trailers can be severe and you may hurt others including your horse. Create a checklist just before traveling to double check your safety measures and don’t forget – safety first.

Curtis Gardner is CEO of Triton Barns Systems online at http://www.tritonbarns.com. Triton Barns provides horse stalls, horse barns and horse barn accessories online to thousands of horse owner globally. Triton horse stalls are hot dipped galvanized and are covered with a 25 year warranty.

Author: Curtis Gardner
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horse riding can be both exhilarating and frustrating sometimes during the same ride. A failure to appreciate and understand the basics of horse temperament or riding mechanics can make the experience less than enjoyable. The opposite is just as true, having a genuine interest and respect for the horse and its capabilities coupled with a natural or acquired aptitude for communication and riding techniques then you are likely find horseback riding an exciting and relaxing leisure pursuit.

In order to develop effective communication between horse and rider the first and most important aspect is simply TRUST. A trusting relationship developed on the ground (through ground work) enables you to develop an understanding of your horse’s attitude, behaviour and demeanour. This work helps to learn whether your horse is is shy and needs encouragement, bold and forward and so requires a confident rider, or are they compliant and so able to follow your direction and leads.

One of the major areas to work on whilst on the ground is the area of ‘respect for space’. This applies to both the horse’s respect for your space and your respect for theirs. Physical touch is a great manner in which to establish a pleasing relationship between the horse and yourself–for example, rubbing the horse’s shoulder, back, and head– then progress to applying pressure to instruct the horse to move into or away from your space. In addition to ground work, riders will benefit greatly from an understanding of horse physiology and mechanics (how they move), I their communication efforts with their horse.

Dressage is the art of training the horse through the rider employing a variety of aids such as legs, hands, seat, spurs and whips by which to communicate with the horse via negative and positive reinforcement (comfort and discomfort). For example, applying pressure from your legs urges the horse to move, while placing your legs in a different place tells the horse to hold its position. You can also use your seat to slow the horse or push the horse in one direction or another.

Understanding the horse’s behaviour ahead of time allows you, as the rider, to anticipate the horse’s reactions and conduct. For instance, if a horse normally appears willing and ready to work, but on another day exhibits anger and reluctance, then you should consider that something is wrong–either with the horse or with you, the rider. Anticipating the horse’s reactions can help you decipher what aids to use, and how to stay one step ahead of the horse.

Riders should remember that horses only do things for to reason; to obtain comfort or avoid pain. This is the primary focus of any training with horses; making the position or situation we want the most comfortable for the horse, and any other reaction that we do not want uncomfortable for the horse. Riders should remember that rather than blame the horse, they should realize that a misbehaving horse is often the result of a rider who is not effectively communicating.

Find more information at http://everythingbutthehorse.net

Author: Robert Curtin
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horse training aids provide you with a useful trade to help you have success when training your horse. When it comes to training a horse, you don’t want to pass over your investment in training aids. Horse training is a serious issue and training aids can make sure a trainer stays safe. It is best to make sure you have the following necessary horse training aids before you start training your horse.

Every trainer is going to need a halter and lead rope combination. The rope halter allows you to tie and lead which is often better than a flat halter, which is uncomfortable for the horse and prevents leaning. When you are working with a horse, it is important to have a rope halter as a part of your equipment.

Next, you need a lead rope to attach to your halter. This lead rope is used to steer and direct your horse. This is a very important training aid since it acts like a leash and allows you to tell your horse what you want them to do.

Another valuable horse training aid is the longe line. Longeing is a term for a set of training skills that teach a horse direction, posture and yielding or moving because of pressure. The longe line will allow you to accomplish these goals.

A popular training tool among many trainers is a progress string. This thin, braided rope has an eye splice at one end and a leather popper on the other. You can use it in a variety of ways. They can be a visual aid for horses to know when they are in your space. It can also be a physical tool for you to have contact while in the saddle. The progress strain isn’t heavy to cause pain, but the popper end has a distinct noise and can be used in place of a crop.

For a less traditional horse training method, you should consider getting a large rubber ball. This type of rubber ball can be bought at a toy store and can be used to successfully condition horse’s nerves. Simply roll the ball around them and gently bump it into their legs so they won’t become startled.

The horse can also be directed from the saddle in order to have them gently move the ball with their legs. This way your horse can become desensitized to unexpected movements or objects. Thereby, reducing a horse from becoming spooked.

The last less traditional horse training aid you can use is a simple plastic tarp. The tarp can be used to develop a horse’s courage while providing you with a cheap training aid. All you have to do is place the tarp in the training area and lead your horse over it so they walk across it by themselves.

As the horse walks across the tarp, it will make a noise and provide them with a strange footing environment. This will develop the trust between a trainer and horse while providing them with desensitizing to noisy situations for when you take them out on a trail ride.

This is by no means a complete list of all the horse training aids available on the market, but it can provide you with something to work with. This list provides you with the basic and necessary training aids for your horse so you can get started with your training program. Once you progress in your horse training you can start using advanced horse training aids and tactics so that you have continued progress.

Sheryll Walker is a horse training enthusiast, helping numbers of people to learn secrets of training horses.

To discover more helpful horse training aids and learn about natural horse training, visit HorseTrainingHelp.com.

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Author: Sheryll Walker
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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I read somewhere that the horse has to change leads during the race to avoid putting too much pressure on one leg.
How does the jockey do it? They can’t exactly use their legs.

Horses that spook easily are dangerous to ride, they are a danger not only to themselves, but to others as well. Horses, being prey animals, have a strong fight or flight response, and when faced with a threatening situation, they deal with it by shying or even worse, bolting. When this happens the horse is usually classified as a problem horse and is considered dangerous. A seemingly harmless object such as a plastic bag or chicken coop can send the biggest of horses into a bolting frenzy.

There are some things you can do to desensitize your horse. This problem horse training is ideally started when the horse is young and in training as it will ensure a spook proof horse. Begin by lunging the horse for a few minutes to allow him to work off any excessive energy. Leave a halter and lead rope on the horse and approach him slowly with an old saddle pad or blanket allowing him to sniff it. Work at the horse’s pace and if he spooks or takes a step back, introduce the blanket again slowly until he is comfortable having it close to him.

Once he’s more at ease around the blanket, you can start moving it around and swinging it slowly. This will help desensitize the horse against flapping objects. The horse will most probably feel uncomfortable and may even shy, so be patient and work with him until he is accustomed to having the blanket swung around him.

The next step is to touch the horse with the swinging blanket, gently swing it onto his back and all over his body. Once the horse accepts the blanket on his head you’re halfway there! Place the blanket by his feet to help desensitize him to objects under his feet, this is an essential part of the desensitization exercise. That’s it; reward him profusely for a job well done!

The next desensitizing exercise you should try is to use a soft rope and work with it in much the same way as you did with the saddle pad or blanket. This teaches the horse to tolerate having a rope moving around his legs and body. Teaching your horse to tolerate this type of sensation can prove to be lifesaving if tack fails and the horse finds himself with bits of tack flying around him. This makes the horse much safer in dangerous situations when tack breaks. Throw the rope on the ground and in-between the horses’ legs and belly until he is no longer afraid of it. If the horse allows you to move the rope around his face and head, you’ve successfully completed this exercise.

Last but certainly not least is the plastic bag. Many, many horses are afraid of plastic bags and this exercise will help eliminate that fear of plastic bags in your horse. Show the bag to your horse and allow him to smell it, then tie it to a long lunge whip and wave it around while holding your horse on long lead rope. The horse will inevitably shy and try to get away from the terrifying object. Shake the bag around the horse until he becomes comfortable to having it around him, once this happens, touch him with bag all over his body. Move it around his body and under his belly, when he allows you to touch his head with it, you’re done.

Work at your horse’s pace and always end your training session on a positive note and with a lot of pace. Never force your horse into an uncomfortable situation or you may end up scarring him for life. Make sure you do these exercises regularly even after the horse has become desensitized to ensure the horse doesn’t fall back into his old familiar patterns.

Stal Amani is a top equestrian centre based in Belgium within 2 hours drive of most of the top jumping and dressage competitions in Europe. We regularly host national and international competitions. For more information please visit http://www.stalamani.com

Author: Josie Amani
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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My horse’s name is Dandy and he’s a 15 yearold american quater horse. He has had this small bump-like thing on his cheast between his front legs. It’s been there since last summer. It hasn’t gotton bigger and it’s about the size of a nickle. It doesnt seem like it hurts him, but what excatly is it?

My horse who was a "saved" horse is having problems filling out in her hip bones. She looks great in the stomach, legs, etc. but her hip bones/butt area just stick out. How do you get this area to fill out?