Posts Tagged ‘Horses’

I am getting a horse soon, and bare foot horses are hard to find. How would you transition a horse from shoes to barefoot? The horse would, eventually be ridden 6 days a week, if that helps.
Also, how much does a farrier cost with and without shoes per month?

Please do not comment on how much you hate barefoot, and I need shoes, I think barefoot is best. Keep your arguments to yourself, please!
Thanks!

I have decided to have a career in horses and go to a horse university,. I am 17 but have been rding for only three years.

Besides majorly increasing my personal fitness, what else can I do to make my horse riding skills increase and start thinking of competing, and having lseeons at least twice a week?

Aswell I will obviously increasing my horsemanship skills as hopefully I will be getting my own horse next halfway through next year during my gap year.

Any tips, besides the fact that I will be poor forever?

Thank you in adavnce for taking my question seriously.

There are many different types of horse rugs, with various characteristics and functions. Therefore, the first step to choosing a horse rug is to decide which type you require for your horse. To assist you in this decision, following is a list of the main types of rugs and an explanation of their function:

• Fly Rug. The purpose of this is to protect the horse from flies that bite or sting. They are more commonly and accurately referred to as ‘fly sheets’ rather than ‘fly rugs’, as they are typically a thin plastic sheet or mesh, rather than a fabric rug. One can also get ‘fly masks’, which are made out of the same material and are intended to protect the head (especially the eyes and ears) from flies. As they are a thin sheet they provide little warmth or insulation, although some can provide protection from wind and rain.

• Turnout rugs. These are intended to provide insulation (warmth), to protect horses when they are outside. The amount of warmth depends largely on the amount of insulation, which is typically measured in terms of weight rather than thickness. Consequently, rugs with a moderate amount of insulation are referred to as Lightweight Turnout Rugs, while those intended for maximum warmth are known as Heavy Turnout Rugs. Some turnout rugs are resistant or impervious to rain.

• Coolers. Although they may look like some turnout rugs, their purpose is quite different. They are intended to help the horse dry by ‘wicking’ moisture away from its coat, and at the same time protecting the horse from cooling while wet (a wet horse can quickly become chilled if it is exposed to cold and/or wind while it has a wet coat). They are typically used after exercise, when the weather is cool or windy, and removed once the horse has dried off. These are also known as ’sweat rugs’.

• Rain sheets. These are typically a thin sheet, with little or no insulation. It is intended to keep the horse dry and can also provide protection from the wind.

• Stable rugs. Also known as ’stable blankets’, these are similar to turnout rugs in that they provide warming insulation, but are intended to be used when the horse is stabled rather than when it is outside.

• Saddle rugs. A saddle rug (also known as a ’saddle pad’) is placed under the saddle. It provides cushioning between the saddle and the horse, which protects the horse from the relatively hard saddle and at the same time protects the saddle from being rubbed down by the horse. As the horse tends to sweat under the saddle rug, due to the combination of exercise and the warming insulation provided by the saddle rug, some have built in ‘wicking’ materials to help remove the sweat from the coat.

• Show rugs. A show rug is placed between the saddle and the saddle rug. It is a relatively thin but colourful rug whose main function is look attractive. As it has little or no other practical purpose, it is typically used only during exhibitions or competitions.

• Summer rugs. More commonly known as ’summer sheets’, these are thin sheets intended to keep dirt off of the horse’s coat (e.g. if it rolls or lies down).

• New Zealand rugs. A turnout rug which is made of waxed canvas. It provides limited warmth but protects well from wind and rain (provided that it is re-waxed as required) and is relatively resistant to damage due to the strong canvas material.

• Riding rugs. It provides protection from the weather but is designed to be worn by the horse when it is being ridden.

Of these various types of horse rugs, perhaps the most commonly used is the turnout rug. The most important factor when choosing this type of rug is to select a rug of the appropriate warmth. Keep in mind that a horse which is too hot can be as uncomfortable as one which is too cold. Furthermore, a rug will discourage the growth of the coat and if too warm will actually result in the horse shedding its coat. Consequently, it is important both that the rug is heavy enough to provide necessary warmth but as the same time is not too warm. The warmth which an individual horse requires will depend on various factors:

• Weather. On a cold winter day, one will need a warmer (heavier) turnout rug than on a cool autumn or spring day. If there is wind, additional protection is required due to the wind chill factor. Likewise, if there is heavy rain, the insulation provided by the horse’s coat and by the rug are both reduced, unless they have a rain resistant cover.

• Health and Age. Horses which are young, strong and healthy have less requirement for a warming rug than ones which are not. On a cold day, it may make sense to put a heavy turnout rug on a sick or old horse, when a younger horse in the same field may be fine with a light turnout rug or no rug at all.

• Thickness of coat. A horse with a thick coat will have less need for a rug than one which has a fine coat, or which has been clipped.

• Exhibiting. A horse with a thick coat generally does not look as attractive (in the eyes of most people) as one which has a thinner coat. Consequently, horses being exhibited usually have a rug which is warm enough to discourage growth of their winter coat. Such coats are relatively heavy for the horse’s circumstances, as they need to replace the insulation provided by the natural winter coat rather than merely supplement it. Likewise, summer sheets and show rugs are for the needs of the exhibitor rather than the horse.

• Number of rugs. The above factors will determine the number of rugs required. For example, a young and healthy horse in a mild climate may not require a rug at all and may be happier without one. In a colder climate, a healthy horse may need only a light rug to be used during the coldest days. An elderly or sick horse may need multiple rugs, depending on the situation (e.g. uninsulated waterproof coat for summer rain, lightweight turnout rug for autumn or spring, and a heavy turnout rug for winter).

Once one has decided on the type of rug plus (in the case of warming rugs) the required weight, one can then look at the materials, quality and features which you may require. Some common items and features to consider are:

• Antibacterial. Some rugs are treated to be antibacterial.

• Breathable. Breathable rugs allow sweat to evaporate and air to access the coat, features which make the rug more comfortable and healthier.

• Coverage. Rugs generally cover the body. Some also have neck covers, either as part of the rug or an a detachable extra.

• Friction points: Rugs can rub, especially if worn by active horses or when the horse is working. The main points affected are typically around the shoulders and chest. To prevent this, some rugs have anti-friction fabric at these points to allow the rug to easily slide and move without rubbing the coat.

• Hooks, loops, buckles, straps and attachments. These should be strong, easily opened and closed, and firmly attached.

• Insulation. The amount of insulation is typically expressed in grams per square meter. For example, a ‘300g’ rug has 300 grams of insulation per square meter of rug. The actual rug will weigh more than this, as this is only the weight of the insulation itself and does not include the weight of fabric, straps or buckles. In general, the heavier the weight, the warmer the rug. However, this is not a precise measurement as there are different types of insulation, which vary in terms of quality and effectiveness.

• Rain. A rug may be unsuitable for rain, or be rain resistant, or rain proof.

• Tear Resistant or Rip Stop. Rugs may use fabrics or weaves which are resistant to tearing, and in the event of a tear resist the tear becoming larger.

• Washing. Machine washable rugs are more convenient.

• Wicking. Remove sweat and moisture from the coat.

Once you have decided on the above, your requirements should be well defined in terms of type of rug, amount of warmth required and the various features which you would like. At this point, it is mainly down to quality and price. As in most things, you get what you pay for, so the better quality rugs are correspondingly more expensive. If your budget is limited, or you will only use the rug infrequently, then an inexpensive rug may be appropriate. However, if your horse will be using the rug frequently, it is usually worth investing in a better quality rug which will last. In addition, if your horse is active or frequently rolls, it is important to choose a sturdy rug which can resist this use.

Dr. Doug Stewart is the owner of Horse Care and author of articles such as Horse Rugs.

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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The outbreak was a month ago and infected horses are almost recovered. My horse did not get sick, but can he be a carrier? And if so, how long would he need to be quarantined before leaving?
My horse is 18 yrs old. If he has an immunity to strangles, can he still pass the organism to other horses, or does his immune system destroy it so he is not a carrier?

I keep trying to look it up for what it means for horses and how important it is for horses training, but cannot seem to get a clear answer. So I ask, What does cadence mean in horse terms? And how important is it in horses training? Thanks.

One of the best ways to get started training a young horse or any horse for that matter is at liberty in the round pen. First-what do we mean by “at liberty”? All that means is that we remove all control and training aids from the horse-so that there’s no halter, bridle, or lead/lunge line. Aside from being inside the round pen, the horse is basically free. A bridle or halter, of course, doesn’t really matter, what’s important here is severing direct control between the handler (you) and the horse.

Why is it that round pen training is so effective when training a young horse?

If done correctly, round pen training allows you to build leadership and trust with your horse in a fundamental way that he naturally understands. And this can be done in an essentially safe environment-something that’s really important to keep in mind. Safety should always be your priority with equines. The less training a horse has, the more control we need to maintain safety. And when training a young horse it turns out a round pen is just what the doctor ordered. When done at liberty, the horse is free to move and work through his fears without feeling panicked or confined-even though in reality the horse is confined, by the virtue of being in a round pen he can move off from a scary stimulus if he chooses to do so. Now nothing is perfect-and there will be occasions when a horse feels panicked in a round pen or even escapes-I’ve seen that happen. But in the vast majority of cases, a round pen will safely confine a horse-while giving him the ability to freely move.

Earlier we mentioned that round pen training is really effective when training a young horse. And in fact its a great tool to use when starting any horse. Let’s see why in more detail.

The first reason is that a round pen produces a setting within which it is pretty easy to establish leadership-a vital step in training a young horse. This is due to the way that horses naturally establish their heirarchy in a herd (wild or otherwise). Every group of horses that lives together has a hierarchical structure and every horse knows his rank. One thing you will see dominant horses doing is making the other horses move around. I once herd a phrase that sums this up: control the feet, control the horse. In the round pen, you mimic this behavior by controlling the movement of your equine in four basic ways:

• You tell him when to move
• You tell him what direction to move
• You tell him how fast to move
• You decide when he can come to a stop

Even better-by working at liberty you’re going to be controlling the movement of your horse using energy and body language. So its all going to seem quite natural to the horse-and he will instinctively see you as his trusted leader. Another aspect of working at liberty is that you are also building communications-another vital step in training a young horse successfully. Your communication skills which you start off in the round pen will carry over to riding-by applying pressure to the appropriate spots on the horse. In the round pen, when working at liberty, you learn to apply pressure with energy and body language. This makes the round pen not just valuable to your animal-it makes it a great training school for you too! If you are able to master communication with your horse using only energy and body language-think about how effective you’ll be when riding and using your reins and legs. You will be able to talk to your horse from the saddle light as can be.

As one specific example, if you want your horse to move out while in the round pen focus your energy and body language on his hip area. At first, you will need a tool to help out-but you should have good success without actually touching the horse as time goes on. Suppose you keep a lead rope with you. You can swing the lead rope in the direction of the hip, without actually striking the horse to ask him to move out. But what you should really be thinking about is focusing your gaze on the top of his hip-and directing energy there. Focus your gaze on the spot where you would actually tap the horse with your crop if you were using that method.

If the horse doesn’t respond, and he may not the first few times, then up the volume. Swing the rope more vigorously, and then let it strike the ground. If the horse still doesn’t move, then at this point direct contact may be necessary. But you will find with practice that less direct contact is required.

Don’t be discouraged if you don;t have complete success at first-nobody becomes a horse whisperer in a day. Keep practicing! With time you will find you need less actual contact with your horses to get them to do what you ask. Round pen training is a great place to start training a young horse or a horse you don’t know, to brush up with an old horse or to just work on your own equine communication skills.

David McMahon is a freelance author who is owned by 3 horses. For more information, please visit Gentle natural horsemanship.

Author: David McMahon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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A lot of people get into the horse business or horse ownership as a "family" thing. The generations before them had horses, and now they too own horses. I’m sure most of their knowledge comes from learning by hand.

But some other people (like myself) do not get this opportunity. My grandparents owned horses, but my parents did not. So that "hands-on" learning that goes on for generations stopped.
Right now I’m still in High School but plan on owning a horse or more in the future. I’ve taken equine science/management classes, and work with large animals like cattle (not that their care is alike!).
And as weird as it sounds- I think I am going too far with learning and reasearch.

So have you horse owners learned what you know from childhood, learned about the subject then got into horses, or just got horses and learned as you go?

I’m a beginner rider in english and an intermediate in western. i’m looking for a horse that is atleast 15hh and can jump. I would like to show, but all the horses I can find are either green or can’t jump. I would prefer to adopt, but if necessary, I would buy. Does anyone have any websites or anything?