Posts Tagged ‘horse rug’

Three standard indicators of a horse’s health are temperature, pulse rate and respiration. These can be used not only to determine if your horse is ill but also can indicate the type of illness.

Horse’s Temperature

The normal temperature for a horse is about 38C (100.5F). Individual horses may vary half a degree either side of this, so you may want to take your horse’s temperature when it is healthy so you know what its healthy temperature is exactly. There can also be a variation of up to half a degree due to time of day and activity. Variations of more than one degree indicate a problem, which should be treated accordingly..

An elevated (abnormally high) temperature usually indicates that the horse has an infection. In such cases, keeping the horse warm and comfortable is important. In particular, one should protect it from being chilled by cold, wet or windy weather. The higher the temperature is, the more serious the condition, and the more likely that veterinary assistance or antibiotics may be required.

A depressed (abnormally low) temperature is unusual, but can occur in cold weather (especially if it is wet or windy) if the horse is unable to maintain its temperature. Horses which are old, sick or weak can be chilled easier and faster in cold conditions. A drop in temperature should be taken seriously as even small changes can easily result in secondary issues such as colic, or even be fatal. The horse should be moved to shelter and covered with a warming rug. If you have mash, mixing a small quantity with some warm water (but not hot!) and feeding it to the horse can help it warm up, partly due to the warming effect of the water and partly from the quick energy of the mash. The horse should be closely monitored until it warms up and fully recovers. To prevent a reoccurence, one should ensure that the horse has adequate shelter from the weather, consider using a horse rug on colder days (especially if wet or windy) and consider giving it a quantity of high-energy food (such as mash or grain) during cold periods (note that any dietary changes should first be discussed with a veterinarian to avoid potential dietary related problems such as laminitis).

If a horse shows signs of illness or abnormal behavior, but does not have a temperature, the problem is probably not infection related. In other words, it could be an injury or a non-infection illness such as colic or laminitis. Consequently, even a normal temperature is is useful diagnostic tool, as it helps to eliminate infections (e.g. strangles) as possible causes of the problem symptoms.

If you are not experienced in taking a horse’s temperature, you should first do this with an experienced person, to minimize risk of injury to yourself or the horse. Some tips:

• An electronic thermometer is better than a glass thermometer, as it is faster and does not have the risk of breaking and associated injury. If you only have mercury thermometer available, first shake the mercury below 37.4 and take care that it does not break when inserting into or removing from the horse.
• If possible, have someone at the head end to distract the horse with a bit of food. If working on your own, consider first tying up the horse to minimize movement or risk of it running off.
• Put some lubricant on the bulb-end of the thermometer to make insertion in the rectum easier.
• Raise the tail with your left hand and insert the bulb into the rectum with your right (if you are left-handed, hold tail with right and insert with left). With mercury thermometers one needs to wait about half a minute and not remove until the mercury stops moving. With electric thermometers readings are normally quicker and depending on type it may beep to tell you that the reading is complete.
• Horses can be startled by this procedure and may kick, so one should watch and be careful of the horse. Standing slightly to one side rather than directly behind the horse is a safer position.
• Make sure that you hold onto the thermometer firmly, as otherwise movement of the sphincter muscle could draw the thermometer inside the horse.
• Wash the thermometer and if possible wipe it with alcohol (or appropriate disinfectant) to sterilize it before putting it away.

Pulse Rate

A horse’s pulse rate should be taken when it is resting, as the pulse rate during exercise or shortly thereafter is not a good indication (unless one is using pulse recovery rates and maximum pulse rates as part of a fitness evaluation). The normal pulse rate for a horse is depends on various factors such as breed (e.g. ponies tend to be faster), age and physical fitness. Consequently, it is wise to take your horse’s pulse rate when it is well and write this down, so that you know the normal pulse rate of your horse. Then, if you suspect illness, you will know the normal pulse of your horse which you can test against. If you don’t know your horse’s normal pulse rate, consider the range of 36-42 beats per minute as normal.

To take the pulse, gently press your fingers against an artery and count the number of beats. You will need a watch with a second hand to measure the time. The easiest places to feel the pulse are:

• Under the top of the lower jaw, gently pressing the artery against the underlying bone
• On the horse’s cheek, just above and behind the eye
• The inside of a foreleg, level with the knee, where the artery runs over the bone.

One can also use a stethoscope, pressed gently against an artery, to listen for the pulse rather than using one’s fingers to feel for it.

An elevated pulse rate can be associated with illness or pain (as well as exercise or fear). A high pulse rate combined with a normal temperature indicates a non-infection illness. A high pulse rate combined with a high respiration rate but a normal temperature is often associated with pain.

Respiration Rate

The resting respiration rate of an adult horse is 8-15 times per minute. This is a wide range as the normal respiration rate for an individual horse is dependent on its breed, age and general condition. Consequently, it is wise to take your horse’s respiration rate when it is well and write this down, so that you know the normal respiration of your horse, which you can then test against if at a later date you suspect illness.

The easiest way to measure a horse’s respiration is to stand behind it and watch its flanks, while timing with a watch. You may need to first move the horse into an area where it is quiet and away from other horses, as excitement or sniffing can make an accurate count difficult. Likewise, on a hot day you may need to move it out of the sun, as a hot horse breaths faster.

An elevated respiration can be associated with illness or pain (as well as exercise or fear). A high rate combined with a normal temperature indicates a non-infection illness. A high respiration rate combined with a high pulse rate but a normal temperature is often associated with pain.

Doug Stewart is the main writer on Horse Heath for a website on Horses for Sale

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Mobile device news

There are many different types of horse rugs, with various characteristics and functions. Therefore, the first step to choosing a horse rug is to decide which type you require for your horse. To assist you in this decision, following is a list of the main types of rugs and an explanation of their function:

• Fly Rug. The purpose of this is to protect the horse from flies that bite or sting. They are more commonly and accurately referred to as ‘fly sheets’ rather than ‘fly rugs’, as they are typically a thin plastic sheet or mesh, rather than a fabric rug. One can also get ‘fly masks’, which are made out of the same material and are intended to protect the head (especially the eyes and ears) from flies. As they are a thin sheet they provide little warmth or insulation, although some can provide protection from wind and rain.

• Turnout rugs. These are intended to provide insulation (warmth), to protect horses when they are outside. The amount of warmth depends largely on the amount of insulation, which is typically measured in terms of weight rather than thickness. Consequently, rugs with a moderate amount of insulation are referred to as Lightweight Turnout Rugs, while those intended for maximum warmth are known as Heavy Turnout Rugs. Some turnout rugs are resistant or impervious to rain.

• Coolers. Although they may look like some turnout rugs, their purpose is quite different. They are intended to help the horse dry by ‘wicking’ moisture away from its coat, and at the same time protecting the horse from cooling while wet (a wet horse can quickly become chilled if it is exposed to cold and/or wind while it has a wet coat). They are typically used after exercise, when the weather is cool or windy, and removed once the horse has dried off. These are also known as ‘sweat rugs’.

• Rain sheets. These are typically a thin sheet, with little or no insulation. It is intended to keep the horse dry and can also provide protection from the wind.

• Stable rugs. Also known as ‘stable blankets’, these are similar to turnout rugs in that they provide warming insulation, but are intended to be used when the horse is stabled rather than when it is outside.

• Saddle rugs. A saddle rug (also known as a ‘saddle pad’) is placed under the saddle. It provides cushioning between the saddle and the horse, which protects the horse from the relatively hard saddle and at the same time protects the saddle from being rubbed down by the horse. As the horse tends to sweat under the saddle rug, due to the combination of exercise and the warming insulation provided by the saddle rug, some have built in ‘wicking’ materials to help remove the sweat from the coat.

• Show rugs. A show rug is placed between the saddle and the saddle rug. It is a relatively thin but colourful rug whose main function is look attractive. As it has little or no other practical purpose, it is typically used only during exhibitions or competitions.

• Summer rugs. More commonly known as ‘summer sheets’, these are thin sheets intended to keep dirt off of the horse’s coat (e.g. if it rolls or lies down).

• New Zealand rugs. A turnout rug which is made of waxed canvas. It provides limited warmth but protects well from wind and rain (provided that it is re-waxed as required) and is relatively resistant to damage due to the strong canvas material.

• Riding rugs. It provides protection from the weather but is designed to be worn by the horse when it is being ridden.

Of these various types of horse rugs, perhaps the most commonly used is the turnout rug. The most important factor when choosing this type of rug is to select a rug of the appropriate warmth. Keep in mind that a horse which is too hot can be as uncomfortable as one which is too cold. Furthermore, a rug will discourage the growth of the coat and if too warm will actually result in the horse shedding its coat. Consequently, it is important both that the rug is heavy enough to provide necessary warmth but as the same time is not too warm. The warmth which an individual horse requires will depend on various factors:

• Weather. On a cold winter day, one will need a warmer (heavier) turnout rug than on a cool autumn or spring day. If there is wind, additional protection is required due to the wind chill factor. Likewise, if there is heavy rain, the insulation provided by the horse’s coat and by the rug are both reduced, unless they have a rain resistant cover.

• Health and Age. Horses which are young, strong and healthy have less requirement for a warming rug than ones which are not. On a cold day, it may make sense to put a heavy turnout rug on a sick or old horse, when a younger horse in the same field may be fine with a light turnout rug or no rug at all.

• Thickness of coat. A horse with a thick coat will have less need for a rug than one which has a fine coat, or which has been clipped.

• Exhibiting. A horse with a thick coat generally does not look as attractive (in the eyes of most people) as one which has a thinner coat. Consequently, horses being exhibited usually have a rug which is warm enough to discourage growth of their winter coat. Such coats are relatively heavy for the horse’s circumstances, as they need to replace the insulation provided by the natural winter coat rather than merely supplement it. Likewise, summer sheets and show rugs are for the needs of the exhibitor rather than the horse.

• Number of rugs. The above factors will determine the number of rugs required. For example, a young and healthy horse in a mild climate may not require a rug at all and may be happier without one. In a colder climate, a healthy horse may need only a light rug to be used during the coldest days. An elderly or sick horse may need multiple rugs, depending on the situation (e.g. uninsulated waterproof coat for summer rain, lightweight turnout rug for autumn or spring, and a heavy turnout rug for winter).

Once one has decided on the type of rug plus (in the case of warming rugs) the required weight, one can then look at the materials, quality and features which you may require. Some common items and features to consider are:

• Antibacterial. Some rugs are treated to be antibacterial.

• Breathable. Breathable rugs allow sweat to evaporate and air to access the coat, features which make the rug more comfortable and healthier.

• Coverage. Rugs generally cover the body. Some also have neck covers, either as part of the rug or an a detachable extra.

• Friction points: Rugs can rub, especially if worn by active horses or when the horse is working. The main points affected are typically around the shoulders and chest. To prevent this, some rugs have anti-friction fabric at these points to allow the rug to easily slide and move without rubbing the coat.

• Hooks, loops, buckles, straps and attachments. These should be strong, easily opened and closed, and firmly attached.

• Insulation. The amount of insulation is typically expressed in grams per square meter. For example, a ’300g’ rug has 300 grams of insulation per square meter of rug. The actual rug will weigh more than this, as this is only the weight of the insulation itself and does not include the weight of fabric, straps or buckles. In general, the heavier the weight, the warmer the rug. However, this is not a precise measurement as there are different types of insulation, which vary in terms of quality and effectiveness.

• Rain. A rug may be unsuitable for rain, or be rain resistant, or rain proof.

• Tear Resistant or Rip Stop. Rugs may use fabrics or weaves which are resistant to tearing, and in the event of a tear resist the tear becoming larger.

• Washing. Machine washable rugs are more convenient.

• Wicking. Remove sweat and moisture from the coat.

Once you have decided on the above, your requirements should be well defined in terms of type of rug, amount of warmth required and the various features which you would like. At this point, it is mainly down to quality and price. As in most things, you get what you pay for, so the better quality rugs are correspondingly more expensive. If your budget is limited, or you will only use the rug infrequently, then an inexpensive rug may be appropriate. However, if your horse will be using the rug frequently, it is usually worth investing in a better quality rug which will last. In addition, if your horse is active or frequently rolls, it is important to choose a sturdy rug which can resist this use.

Dr. Doug Stewart is the owner of Horse Care and author of articles such as Horse Rugs.

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Humorous photo captions

Before you purchase any horse rugs, there are some things you should consider in order to find the right ones. There are a wide variety of types of horse rugs and finding the right one for your horse should be a lasting investment. knife edge stirrups Most horse owners end up buying more than one type of horse rug.

The size of your horse is an important consideration in your purchase. Before you shop for the perfect horse rug for your horse be sure to take the horse’s measurements. The risk of not taking measurements is getting a horse rug that is too large, which is a risk to the horse. Stable rugs

You will need to take some twine or rope and wrap it around the horse’s mid section in order to get a proper measurement. Measuring the twine against a tape measure will give you the width of the horse rug you need. You also need to measure your horse from the mane to the tail for the length.

Consider the climate of your area when you shop for a horse rug also. Any exposure to extreme weather conditions will warrant either a heavy weight horse rug or a light weight horse rug. Investing in a summer cooler horse rug is a good idea to protect your horse from heat, flies and other insects.

If you have a show horse or compete in horse competitions, you will want to find a dressage horse rug that is colorful and ornamental. You can easily find a horse rug that matches your horse’s personality and performance as there is wide variety of color and design available.

For horses that spend a lot of time in the stable, for whatever reason, there are stable rugs. These horse rugs can be anything from light weight fleece to fancy duvet types. Cooler Rugs These are meant for the comfort and warmth of the horse.

No matter what type of horse rug you choose for your horse, follow the manufacturer’s care instructions to keep it lasting a long time.

Horse rugs are just one of a myriad of horse tack that is available to care for your horse. western saddles Horse rugs are sometimes referred to as horse sheets or horse blankets. Horse rugs have been used in the care of horses for a very long time and are still a practical purchase for horse owners.

Horse rugs are used for various reasons in the care of horses. Stirrup Accessories For horses that spend considerable time in the stable there are are horse rugs meant to keep them warm. Horse rugs are also utilized in keeping injured or sick horses warm. The types of horse rugs used for warmth are often called heavy weight turnout rugs.

Cooler horse rugs are the ones that are used to cool a horse off after exercise or too much heat from the sun. Cooler horse rugs assist in removing excess moisture from the horse.

The type of horse rugs used in the summer, or after a horse has been bathed, are called summer sheets. These types of horse rugs are to protect the horse from getting dirty again and to protect from flies and other insects. There is also the option of getting a horse rug specific to flies called fly rugs.

For decorative reasons, there are other types of horse rugs. These types are usually fleece and very colorful and are used for show horses.

Horse fugs can be found in a large variety of color, size and material. The horse will need to be measured for size to get a perfect fit. double bridles It’s important not to place a horse rug on your horse that is too big. Doing so will cause your horse to become tangled and perhaps even to fall.

There are some horse rugs called horse blankets and are placed under the saddle. It’s important that saddle blankets fit well under the saddle to prevent chaffing of the skin or moving of the saddle. These horse rugs are more luxury, not necessity.

Anyone who has made the decision to buy a horse will soon find out that there is so much to learn. One thing I had not really considered was the maintenance needed for all the equipment etc and below are some useful points I have discovered which you might like to share.
The purchase of a good quality horse blanket is important and the aftercare, because laundering equestrian blankets needs an industrial washing machine.
Your horse should be checked on a daily basis to make sure that their blanket is not pulling or rubbing. If you see any patches of broken hair this is usually a certain sign.
Folding your blankets, fleeces and rugs, in the correct way makes them so much easier and safer to put back on your horse or pony. The horse is also less likely to spook if you set a folded bundle on his back, carefully unfolding it than he would if you just dumped the blanket over his back and dragged it into position. 
Fold your blanket whilst taking it off the horse or after cleaning ready for the next use. A folded blanket seems much easier to carry. 
Start with the blanket, placed unbuckled on the horse, or take it off and lay it on the ground.Then put the rug so the outside is facing upwards. Spread the straps straight out so they can be folded into the blanket as you go.
Fold the back third of the blanket up towards the middle, then tuck in the leg straps and fold in the tail flap.
Then fold the front third part of the blanket back towards the folded edge. Then straighten out the shoulder gussets.
Fold the right side up so the lower edges meets the centre seam.
Then fold the left side up so the lower edge meets the centre, thus folding up the belly straps.
Put the two halves together. The bundle can then be folded together once more and packed in a bag for storage. Then just reverse the order of the folds which enables you to put the blanket back on the horse easily.
If your horse is kept outside a lot it will probably be good to have two outdoor rugs. An extra blanket allows you to swop one blanket to allow the other one to dry.

It is wise not to try to wash your horse blankets in your washing machine!
There are heavy duty washing machines that can be bought especially for “equestrian use”. This could be invaluable and if you share livery with other people at your stables it could well be a great investment if the cost is shared.