Posts Tagged ‘Horse Pasture’

By practicing pasture rotation, you can reduce or eliminate the cost of hay during the growing season. If you put a little thought into how you rotate the pastures, you’ll not only save money, you will provide your horse with quality food. After reading this article, you will know when to rotate your horses on and off pastures.

Pasture Mix

If you are starting from scratch and seeding a new pasture, you can use this ‘recipe’ for seeding:

Pasture mix per acre
8 pounds alfalfa
3 pounds orchard grass
5 pounds bromegrass
if you want to add some clover, 1/2 pound will be plenty.

Once you turn your horses out in the spring, you will being your management. If you have included alfalfa and don’t rotate the horses out of the pasture when they have grazed it to the right height, you will start finding thistles and other weeds taking over. So, if you don’t plan to manage rotation carefully, and horses are allowed to graze too close, alfalfa may not be your choice. Perhaps you should add bluegrass instead. Your county extension office will have more information on the right types of grasses and legumes in your area.

Grasses will do best during the cooler days at the beginning and end of the growing season. Grasses are more durable and resist trampling by horses.

Legumes (alfalfa and other clovers) are more productive in warmer months. Legumes add protein for your horse and nitrogen for the grasses. They are more susceptible to trampling and overgrazing.

Pastures with a large percentage of legumes can lead to bloat. You want to introduce horses to grass/ legume pasture slowly. In the spring, when you and your horse are eager to get into the pasture, start slowly. Let the horses into the pasture for 20 minutes or a half hour the first couple of days. Do not turn hungry horses into the pasture – feed them hay before turning them out. Lengthen the time in the pasture a little bit over the next week or two, always feeding them hay before turning them out and provide a salt block and plenty of water to newly pastured horses.

If you plan on doing pasture rotation correctly, you will include a few hours of mowing and dragging after moving your horses off each pasture. If you don’t think you will do the mowing and dragging, it probably won’t be worth the extra money to include legumes in your pasture.

Carefully monitor grazing. I’m not going to get real technical here, I’ll just tell you the rule of thumb – when the forages reach 6 – 8 inches, put your horses in the pasture. Remove them after they have grazed to an average height of 3 or 4 inches. Keep in mind that if you have not planted alfalfa, and the pasture is mostly grass, you can let your horses graze it down to about 2 inches average.

Also remember that plants will grow faster in the spring and slower in the summer and fall. You may find that you need to mow a pasture because the grass is growing faster than the horses are eating. If the grass reaches higher than 8 inches and it is not time to move your horses to this pasture, mow it to about 4 inches. By timing your rotation to pasture height rather than by your calendar you can easily maintain a good pasture.

Uneven Grazing

Horses will graze younger, tastier pasture plants. When you rotate them out of the pasture, they may leave behind an uneven pasture with some tall legumes. If you allow the ungrazed plants to remain, they can shade out and stunt the growth of other forages.

Mowing Your Pasture

Regular mowing makes pastures more productive. It can also reduce herbicide usage.

After rotating your horses out of the pasture, mow the pasture with your mower set at about four inches. This will allow the good stuff to grow back. The bottom 2-3 inches of grasses are where the sugars and proteins are stored. These sugars and proteins are needed for regrowth.

Dragging Your Pasture

As soon as your horses are rotated out of the pasture, you will want to drag it. Dragging a pasture breaks up clumps of manure and spreads it evenly around. By breaking up the manure and exposing it to the sun, parasites are killed. By the time your horses are moved back into the pasture, the manure has turned into fertilizer and most parasites have been eliminated. Keep in mind that, although dragging breaks down manure faster, it will not kill all the parasites present. Keep your horses on a worming schedule.

You can use almost anything to drag your pasture. I’ve seen people use old bed springs and chain link fences with bricks laid on top. Most people around here use four wheelers to drag. They are easier to handle and it seems like everyone owns one now. If you have a lot of money to spare, you can buy a pasture drag.

Horse Pasture Rotation – Putting it All Together

I’ve crammed a lot of information in the above article. The actual management of horse pastures is really easy and doesn’t require much work. Using the information above, here is what it actually looks like in practice:

Starting with three or four pastures (I’ve got two horses on 3 – one acre pastures).

Put horses in pasture number one.

When the pasture is grazed down to about 3 inches average (nope, I don’t go out with a tape measure – I simply guestimate that the average height is about 3 inches), I move the horses to pasture number two. Hopefully pasture number two is at least six inches high.

Now, I take my drag into pasture number one and drag the pasture. Then I mow it with my mower set to four inches. It takes about a half hour to drag and 15 minutes to mow. I’m done for a week or so.

When pasture number two is grazed down to about 3 inches, I rotate the horses to pasture number three. I drag and mow pasture number one. I’m done for a week or so.

When pasture number three is grazed down to about three inches, I move the horses back to pasture number one and I drag and mow…

Very simple. Saves money. Makes my horses happy and healthy.

Read free horse articles at HorseArticles.net. From basic horse care to advanced training, you’ll find the horse information you need. Visit Horse Articles now to read more free horse articles.

Author: Di Stalter
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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You have decided you want a horse. Great! Given the current state of the horse market there are many horses who need homes. The price of buying a horse has never been cheaper. But – what must be considered before you buy that pretty purple halter and look for a pony face to put it on?

1. The purchase price of a horse is the cheapest part. We won’t even worry about how much to pay for a horse. Expenses simply begin to add up as soon as you take ownership.

2. Where are you going to keep your horse? To pasture a horse and rely on grass as the main source of feed, you’ll need between five and fifty acres depending on where you live. More horses, more acres.

3. Let’s assume you have sufficient pastureland. To maintain good pasture you have to mow, weed kill and fertilize as required or you’ll end up with a dry lot full of manure and weeds.

4. Whether you keep your horse in a pasture or dirt corral, you will need to provide a suitable shelter from rain, cold, snow or sun. Have you included a horse house in your budget? If your horse’s shelter isn’t sturdy and safe, I promise you will be calling the vet to stitch or patch injuries caused by screws, nails, wire, loose boards or sharp metal edges.

5. Horses eat a lot. Have you ever heard the saying, “He eats like a horse?” Hay, pelleted feed and oats are very expensive. You could easily spend $5 – $10 per day on feed alone. Providing clean, high quality feed is important. If you skimp in consistent quantity or quality, you’ll need to get out the phone and call the vet again when your horse colics.

6. Do you have basic tack and equipment? Saddle, bridle, halters, leads, buckets, boots (for both you and the horse), curry and brushes, hoof pick, longe line, longe whip, clippers? The list is endless; just take a walk through one of the horse tack and equipment catalogs.

7. Do you need lessons? Horses are wonderful animals; they will give you the most honest feedback possible on earth. One of you is always certain to learn leadership skills. If you’re not sure how to be a good leader, be sure to budget for lessons with a reputable trainer.

8. Make sure you know what you want to do with your new horse. Do you want to spend weekends riding in the country, win a world championship at a breed show, work cattle, rope, barrel race or jump? All horses can do most things, though not equally well. The higher your goals, the more specific you need to be when selecting your equine partner. Be certain the horse you select already knows how to do what you have in mind. Unless you are an experienced trainer, test ride the horse in the event of your choice before you buy; do not buy a ‘prospect.’

9. How much time have you budgeted for your horse? I always tell prospective owners, “You can have a horse or you can have a life. You can’t have both.” This isn’t just a piece of property you’re thinking about. Horses are herd animals in need of leadership, companionship and relationship. If you just want a pasture ornament, great. But, buy at least two. Don’t keep a horse alone unless you are prepared to spend hours with it every day.

10. Have we talked yet about veterinarians and farriers? The amount of routine and preventative care needed to properly maintain your horse is significant. In most areas of the country your horse will need to be shod every six weeks. If you live where there are no rocks you can get by with just a trim. Still, you may expect to pay between $35 and $125 every six weeks just for manicures. Horses need annual vaccinations, worming from four to eight times each year, dental check-ups for sharp teeth annually and yearly Coggins tests (by law.) Expect to budget another $500 to $1000 yearly for basic healthcare. Depending on your area this amount could be significantly more. Unforeseen problems? Get out the checkbook.

Okay, add up the numbers. Consider the time commitment. I know it seems almost too much. But, not if you have the time and place in your heart for one of the most rewarding relationships ever offered a human being. If you’re still reading, you’re still interested.

Nothing compares to the connection possible between human and horse. There are few experiences as magical as those moments when the two of you fly across the landscape as one, or simply spend a warm summer evening, lazing together under a shady tree sharing each other’s thoughts.

Lynn Baber is a Christian writer, business woman and retired equine professional. She shares the lessons learned in thirty-five years at the business table and round pen with her clients and readers. Highly credentialed in issues of leadership, customer relations and most things equine, Lynn has a unique perspective not found elsewhere. Whether the topic is customer service or training stallions, Lynn brings years of experience to presentations and articles. Her latest book based on our amazing relationships with horses is previewed at http://AmazingGrays.us

For more insights, visit Lynn’s blog at http://LynnBaber.net

Author: Lynn Baber
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I always thought that it was safest to put your horse in a barn if it’s a really big storm. Is that true? If not, should you just leave them in the pasture with a shelter in it?
I don’t mean a hurricane. Just a big storm. I don’t have a horse of my own, but I’ve seen people do both and their horses were fine. I think I’ve decided that putting them in a barn would be better. Thanks!

If wishes were horses, then beggars would ride. Or so the old saying goes. However, wishes were horses but not horse supplies as well, then the beggars in question would not be riding.

To begin with, anyone who wishes to ride a horse, will need horse supplies in the form of tack. Even the roughest rider who enjoys bareback riding will require a bridle, and most of us would prefer to have a saddle between us and the horse’s spine.

Most saddlers will stock a variety of bridles and saddles, along with a selection of different types of bit, depending on the needs of you and your horse. Other tack items available at a good retailer of horse supplies should include halters, cruppers and breastplates. Other horse supplies are more concerned with the horse’s comfort and well-being.

A horse kept stabled will require good quality food, ranging from the traditional hay and oats to more modern pellets and grain mixes. Racehorses and show horses in particular will require very high quality, high energy feed and supplements in order to perform at their peak.

A horse kept outdoors in pasture will also require hay and other feed supplements, especially over winter. A horse kept in pasture will also require a cover to protect it from the elements, and occasionally an additional neck rug.

Even if you are using your horse for everyday hacking rather than competitions, you will still require a few more items in the way of horse supplies. Grooming is a pleasure for both horse and rider, and for this you will require a body brush or dandy brush at the very least.

A hoofpick is also a vital piece of equipment in order to ensure that your horse’s hooves are in good condition and to make sure that the sensitive frog of the hoof is not being damaged by stones or other hard objects.

If you choose to leave your horse “barefoot”, you will still need to care for your horse’s hooves, which sometimes means filing them – which in turn means a specialized file. Stables and fields alike need to be kept clean from droppings, so a good set of implements such as a shovel, a rake and a wheelbarrow are vital, although you do not need to buy these at a specialist horse supplies retailer – any good garden or hardware shop should stock these.

If you wish to use your horse in competitions, you will need further equipment, and extra grooming equipment such as curry combs and hoof oil are just some of the items on your list. A horse trailer is vital for transporting your mount to the location of the competition.

The feet and legs of your horse will need to be protected with brushing boots and/or bandages. As turnout is an important part of many shows and gymkhanas, you will also require a collection of ribbons for braiding into the mane according to competition standards. Western riding, of course, has its own set of equipment and requirements, chief of which is the specialized Western saddle.

Other supplies could be better referred to as “people supplies.” These are the essential items for the rider. The most important of these is the hard hat or helmet, which comes in a range of styles and types, depending on your needs and any showing you hope to be doing.

Jodhpur boots are robust enough to work outdoors in or if a horse accidentally treads on your foot, but are also shaped to slide in and out of the stirrup easily – hiking boots and Wellington boots run the risk of being caught in the stirrup, which can lead to horrific consequences in the case of a fall. These items of protective clothing, plus others, can easily be bought at a good horse supplies retailer.

For more information on horses, try visiting http://www.interestinghorses.com – a website that specializes in providing horse related tips, advice and resources including information on horse supplies.

Author: Candice Sabrina
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Often people are under the misinterpretation that you simply need to control the head in order to control the horse. This is why you need to use a lead rope or bridle in order to teach a horse how to stop and start. However, do you know how you can control a horse if you don’t have a lead rope or bridle? If you have ever spent time chasing a horse around a pasture you have likely wondered this.

You can learn to control you horses mind through a process known as natural horse training. If you control a horses mind there will be no worry about losing control no matter what situation you are in with the horse. Natural training is a specific discipline that has to be done properly in order to achieve success.

When you use the term discipline for natural horse training it is important to realize this doesn’t mean obedience or punishment, but rather means you are focusing on calm compliance from the horse. In order to have a horse that is a good follower you need a trainer that has good discipline and self-control. This way the horse will be able to willingly follow you lead.

To have this done successfully natural horse training requires trainers to focus on developing a pattern and providing the horse with a safe and comfortable environment. This description makes natural training seem easy, but it is actually difficult to become successful with this horse training method.

The first step in this horse training method is to get your horse to pay attention to you. To do this you also need to pay complete attention to your horse and what they do without allowing distractions to get in the way.

Make sure you place yourself in a place where you are able to focus and concentrate. If it isn’t possible to do this for long periods then you should start in small durations of at least ten minutes and then increase the length of time.

It is important to focus on your horse and the feedback they provide. What signals are the ears and eyes sending you? What does their breathing tell you? How is the horse reacting and how does this compare to other times? This will help you to determine what triggers your horse to pay attention to you so you can get them to focus on you and do what you want willingly.

Relaxation and rhythm are the two keys to natural horse training. The moment you go near the horse you need to make sure, you are making rhythmic movements. Even as you approach the stall, you should have relaxed movements. You should also pay careful attention to your breathing. Your horse is going to be carefully watching your actions and if you are tense, they can sense it. This is why relaxation and rhythm are vital should something unusual or unplanned happen later.

When you use these two simple steps, you can start having success with natural horse training. Although you shouldn’t become discouraged if things don’t go well on the first day or week of training. It can sometimes take several months before horses can learn to use a non-predatory system of learning. While the name is natural horse training this doesn’t mean it happens naturally for all trainers and horses.

Sheryll Walker is a horse training enthusiast, helping numbers of people to learn Secrets of Training Horses.

Don’t Wait! Get your hands on the “Natural Horse Training” Videos!

To discover more on Training Horse to do what You want, and learn about natural horse training, visit HorseTrainingHelp.com.

Author: Sheryll Walker
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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The impression most people have is that you need to control a horses’ head in order to control them properly. This is why many trainers show a horse how to stop and start through the use of a lead rope or bridle. But what can you do if you don’t have these supplies? What method can you use to control the horse? If you have spent time chasing a horse around a pasture then you have likely asked yourself these questions.

People can learn to control the horse’s mind through the process of natural horse training. If you control a horses mind you won’t lose control, no matter what situation you are faced with. Natural horse training is a unique method that needs to be done properly in order to ensure success.

The process of training doesn’t use any form of punishment or obedience, but uses calm compliance. As a trainer, you need self-control and discipline to get your horse to willing follow your lead all the time. To achieve this, natural horse training focuses on developing a pattern and establishing a feeling of safety and comfort for the horse. By this description, natural horse training seems easy when in reality it is a very difficult program to learn.

Before you can start this training method, you need to get your horse to pay attention to you. To do this you also need to provide your horse with your full attention. Focus on what your horse is doing and don’t allow distractions during the training session.

Both you and the horse need to be in a position to concentrate and focus. If this is impossible to do for long periods of time, then you should start training in small increments and work up to longer periods. Ideally, you should start with at least ten minutes of training time.

In addition to paying attention to your horse, you also want to consider the feedback they are providing. Are the eyes and ears signaling anything? What is the horse’s breathing pattern? Are their reactions similar to the last time you worked with them? By paying attention to these things you will be able to help the horse pay attention to you. Find a trigger that gets your horse to do what you want them to do willingly and then use this continually.

Rhythm and relaxation are key when it comes to natural horse training. Your movements as you approach the horse should be rhythmic. Be relaxed when approaching the horse or stall. Your breathing plays a vital role and should be carefully monitored. Horses are keen to your actions and they will sense if you are tense. If something unusual or unplanned happens this relaxation and rhythm is very important.

After mastering these two simple key features then you can advance in natural horse training. Although don’t be disappointed if things are perfect in the first day or week. Often times it can take several months before horses learn a non-predatory system through natural horse training. While it is known as natural horse training this doesn’t mean that it will come naturally for all people.

In order to naturally control your horse you will need to have the appropriate mental self-control. This is where you will need a lot of hard work. Many successful natural horse trainers have years of experience. So if your first try doesn’t result in success then don’t get discouraged. Simply remember to take your time and be patient, this way your horse will be patient with you. When you do this, you can soon see the benefits that natural horse training has to offer.

Sheryll Walker is a horse enthusiast, helping numbers of people to learn secrets of Natural Horse Training.

To discover more helpful tips on Young Horse Training and learn more about Natural Horse Training, visit http://www.HorseTrainingHelp.com.

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Author: Sheryll Walker
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The maintenance routine will include frequently spreading manure droppings or picking them up. Horses can wear bald patches in the ground. This typically occurs in wet weather. A useful economic tip is to spread seeds that fall from the hay onto the bald patches. This will take care of those patches with new grass in season for your horses.

Maintaining your horse pasture with a variety of grasses should be your goal for good care. Safe herbs and other plants can also be included. Some horses enjoy eating blackberries which contain vitamin C. Brambles may be left in hedges many horses enjoy eating the young leaves of these plants. Dandelions are another highly nutritious plant for horses. They are also easy to seed. Good edible plants should be encouraged in your horse pasture.

Routine pasture inspection is practical horse care. Make sure all fences are in good repair. Carefully check for any poisonous plants frequently. Most people do not have the knowledge to identify poisonous plants in their horse pasture. If you are not familiar enough with the poisonous plants for the area where you live to readily identify them, purchase a good photographic guide to poisonous plants. Inspections for these plants should take place often because seeds from these plants can blow in and sprout anytime.

Here is a list of plants using their common names that may reduce the quality of your horse pasture and those that are unsafe for horses. If you find them in you horse grazing area take care that they are removed.

• Beech – Beech mast or the fruit is poisonous to horses.
• Box – This plant is often used as a hedge for gardens.
• Bracken – This plant is not usually eaten by horses. It should be pulled up and burned because it wastes valuable grazing and spreads.
• Buttercups – Horses usually do not eat this plant but weed killers can change the taste and they may be eaten then.
• Daffodil – If growing wild can be eaten.
• Deadly night shade – Can be eaten by horses that browse a hedgerow accidentally.
• Foxglove – Not usually eaten but it commonly grows in paddocks.
• Hemlock – The whole plant is deadly. Young shoots appearing in spring are sometimes eaten.
• Holly – The poisonous berries are at times eaten.
• Horse chestnut – Horses can not eat the fruit of this plant but they can eat the leaves.
• Ivy – This plant seems to do no harm is small quantities but not eaten in large amounts.
• Laburnum – If this plant is near a grazing area it should be removed, normally it is only grown in gardens.
• Oak – Consuming large amounts can cause colic in a horse and could be fatal. Sometimes a horse may crave acorns and in this case the acorns must be swept up and removed or select another pasture for the horse to graze.
• Oleander – This plant is deadly to both humans and horses. It is often used as an ornamental plant. Do not pasture a horse near this plant.
• Privet – This plant is poisonous to horses. It is commonly used as a hedge.
• Ragwort – This plant should be pulled up and burned. It can be fatal to horses.
• Yew – Poisoning from this plant happens quickly. Horses can be found dead with the plant still in its mouth.

When you are able to keep your horse in a pasture it is the best way to let him get exercise while grazing. At http://www.horse-central.com you can find information that can help you learn more about keeping your horse pastures safe and other ways to care for your horse.

Author: Fran Mullens
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Do you have to clear out all the poisonous plants before you allow a horse to be in a pasture?