Posts Tagged ‘horse owners’

If there is one thing that horse owners fear on the ground-it’s getting kicked. And with good reason. If you get kicked by a horse you risk getting seriously injured and even killed.

So why do horses kick? Like a lot of issues involving bad horse behavior, the answer comes down to one of two things. Either the horse kicks out of fear-or he kicks out of dominance.

The good news is that horse kicking can be controlled or even eliminated without smacking the horse or even focusing on kicking at all. Instead, you can deal with the problem by building leadership, trust, and respect. How do you do this? Simple-with proper ground training.

Good ground training will eliminate horse kicking because a horse that knows he can trust you is a horse that won’t fear you. When the horse isn’t afraid generally, he isn’t going to fear having his feet handled or fear having you behind him. Conversely, a horse that sees you as his respected leader is not going to try and dominate you. So let’s explore a few ways that we can build leadership, trust and respect with ground horse training, with the goal of eliminating horse kicking in the back of our minds.

Often, eliminating fear and dominance go hand in hand. So you don’t have to focus on what “type” of horse you have too much when applying general principles of horsemanship. First off, what do dominant horses do with the other members of the herd? Well, they herd them around! This simple fact-and keep in mind this is something a horse intuitively understands-is something we can use to our advantage to train our horses gently without using any kind of force. All we have to do is move our horses around. When you do that, your horse will instinctively see you as a leader. Horse kicking will be unlikely in that case because a horse doesn’t kick his leader.

We can make a horse move forward, backward, to the side, or in a circle. OK here are a few basic things we can do:

• Ask your horse to go backwards.
• As your horse to move his forehand.
• Ask your horse to move his hindquarters.
• Circle or lunge your horse.
• Circle or lunge at liberty in the round pen.

By doing these groundwork exercises we teach the horse to view us as a respected leader. This is because we are tapping into his built-in instinct to see those who make him move as his leader. In fact, working your horse at liberty at the round pen may be one of the most important exercises you can use to do this. That’s because you control three things:

• When the horse moves and when he can come to rest.
• How fast he goes.
• What direction he goes.

Round pen work is also safe. By doing these three things, you establish yourself as a leader because your horse will know automatically you’re his leader because you’re controlling his movement. That’s what the trick really is-control the movement of the horse at all times. Then he will see you as his respected leader.

Next time your horse kicks-instead of giving into your impulse to smack him-try asking him (firmly) for a backup instead. By asking him to move off, you build leadership and respect-so reduce the chance of a horse kicking in the future.

David McMahon is a free lance author who owns 3 horses and writes about horse training issues. For more information please visit Mastering Basic Groundwork (Horse Training) [http://nmhorse.com/Basic_Groundwork.html].

Author: David McMahon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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If you plan to show or compete with your horse, it is essential that you get your horse into shape. His muscle strength and stamina will determine how he handles rigorous work, and a fit horse will not be as stressed on show day. Of course, even if you are not competing your horse, fitness is an important issue.

Many riders focus only on themselves: developing leg strength, improving balance, increasing stamina. This philosophy is a mistake because it increases the chance your horse will be hurt because he isn’t in shape.

Endurance

The first way to get your horse into shape is to focus on endurance. This simply means the length of time your horse can perform certain activities without dangerously accelerating his respiration and heart rate. I recommend that horse owners observe endurance rides at least once a week.

An endurance ride is usually conducted in a field or on a trail because the arena can become monotonous. Depending on whether or not your horse is currently in shape, an endurance ride could take an hour or more, so prepare for longevity. In the beginning, however, an out-of-shape horse shouldn’t be ridden longer than 30 minutes for endurance.

Contrary to popular belief, trot work is the most conducive to endurance. It combines moderate speed with constant activity in the legs, and won’t wear the horse out as fast as cantering or galloping. Your horse can definitely trot for thirty straight minutes, but it is doubtful he can canter that long.

Form

The way in which a horse moves is directly related to his fitness level. A fit horse will be able to move correctly, using his muscles efficiently and balancing himself both on the straight-away and on corners and circles. When you work to get your horse into frame on a regular basis, he will automatically increase his fitness level.

Working your horse in a rig is one way to get him into shape. Rigs include draw reins, side reins and training forks, and must be used properly for the horse’s safety. Side reins, for example, are only used in hand or on the lunge line, while draw reins and training forks can be used while mounted.

The purpose of these rigs is not to force your horse into the proper position, but to show him how he should carry himself. Use them as tools rather than instruments of doom and you’ll experience positive results. That said, make sure you ask a trainer or riding instructor to show you the proper ways to use them.

Weather

A horse you think is in shape during the winter might reach the blistering summer months and suddenly seem lethargic and weak. Horses respond to differences in the weather much the same as we do, and it is important to consider the weather outside when you’re trying to get your horse into shape.

Not only is the hear a factor during the summer, but also the humidity. It can affect respiration and wear your horse out faster than he would in a dry clime.

My policy, when the weather begins to heat up, is to start all over with getting my horse into shape. I begin again with short endurance rides, working up to longer bouts as he develops a tolerance for the heat. The same goes for the winter; I allow my horse to slowly grow used to the drop in temperature.

Discipline

It is easy for horseback riders to become so entrenched in their chosen disciplines that they forget the amazing versatility and flexibility of riding in general. They work every day on reining, dressage, jumping, cutting, western pleasure or any number of other disciplines because that is where their focus lies.

Big mistake.

Your horse will find it easier to get into shape when he has some variety in his workouts. You might compete only in dressage, but would your horse benefit from trail riding, jumping or regular flat work occasionally? You bet. It will challenge him to use muscles that are not commonly exercised in dressage.

It’s just like people. You ride horses, so you probably think you’re in shape. But what if you took up karate or basketball? You’d use different muscle groups in different ways, and you’d probably be sore in the morning.

Getting your horse into shape will take time, and it requires constant effort. Horses can experience fluctuating fitness levels just like we can, so make exercise a primary goal for you and your horse.

Laura Jane Thompson is the editor of Riding Instructor University, a web site dedicated to helping riding instructors make more money, achieve greater success and develop effective programs. She is also the Feature Writer for the Horses section at Suite101.com.

Author: Laura Jane Thompson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Natural horse training involves the training of a horse by using it’s natural body language and movements. Practitioners are using a wide variety of different techniques to yield the result horse owners are after: a bond of trust being present between the horse and it’s rider. The bond of trust which develops between the horse and it’s rider during natural horse training is applicable across all disciplines namely: working, eventing, dressage as well as riding for pleasure.

Natural horse training and working horses

Working horses still plays a huge role in farm operations such as herding cattle and other farm animals. A horse is still the only safe method of transportation to the most remote areas as well as unstable or dangerous terrain. It is very essential that a horse traversing such an area knows how to remain calm throughout the journey. It is also essential for the rider to read subtle signs from the horse as to advert danger because horses have the ability to sense a change in conditions much quicker than humans. Only a rider that is best in-tune with his horse will be able to pick up any cues from his horse.

Natural horse training and eventing

Horses trained for eventing including dressage, show jumping and strenuous cross country races are pushed 100% to their limit and must therefore be sound. Cross country races are very dangerous as the course is composed of miles being traversed at very fast and lots of solid build jumps. Only horses being able to trust their riders fully will be successful in these competitions. This is why natural horse training is so important because it builds the trust between horse and rider so when the rider wants the horse to do something new, frightening or challenging, the horse will trust the rider enough to take the risk.

Dressage

Dressage training are known for building balance and muscle in the horse as well as trainer. Whether riding for pleasure or competition, the communication and balance established with natural horse training techniques, makes the dressage horse and rider achieve a higher level of grace and precision.

Pleasure riding

The biggest goal to for most owners is to have fun with their horses which can only happen when there is no fear present. Natural horse training absolves the fear of humans seeming unpredictable to horses and builds communication. When humans learn to speak the same language as their horse, they will find that they will be able to do almost anything with their horses.

No matter the occupation of your horse, natural horse training takes your horse to the next level by building trust, communication and stamina in horses and riders which translates to every situation.

Click Here [http://www.the-perfect-choice.com/naturalhorsetraining] to learn the easiest natural horse training techniques.

Author: Nathalie K
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horse blankets are pretty handy to have around a stable, but not essential for every horse owner. A standard horse blanket is used to keep a horse warm and or protected from wind and other elements.

A horse blanket fits around the horse’s body from chest to rump, straps cross underneath the belly and fasten the blanket securely. Most blankets have buckles in the front, today there are blankets that can be slipped over the horses head. Some blankets also have small straps that loop around the horse’s hind legs which. This helps the blanket from slipping sideways.

Horse blankets are designed according to there use. You can buy a single horse blanket and be content with that, or you could have several and use all of them in a single day. Before buying a horse blanket consider its purpose. I strongly suggest you take into consideration who exactly is going to be responsible for putting on and taking off the blanket.

I can not recount how many dollars and pounds I have seen wasted in a stable yard on horse blankets. I have worked in the USA and UK with horses and I still shake my head in disbelief at the countless times a day I would have to change a blanket on a single horse – to suit the owner. Have you ever stopped to consider how your horse feels?

A horse blanket should be versatile enough that it keeps your horse protected in cold weather. If your horse lives out in a pasture and is not stabled, you ought to buy a blanket that is well insulated to keep him warm. The blanket should also be waterproof, that way you or grooms do not have to run out at the first drop of rain to change blankets.

If your horse is stabled, a single warm blanket will suffice. If you buy a light blanket, he may get too cold and his natural response is to grow thick fluffy hair and look like a teddy bear. Most horse owners prefer to deter this response and blanket their horse. If you buy a thick warm blanket you need to monitor its use.

Temperatures drop at night; if you blanket your horse with a horse blanket for severe cold temperatures in the early evening, you are going to have an uncomfortable horse. Your horse most likely will be too hot and start to sweat. When the temperatures drop, he stops sweating, but has cold sweat to deal with and a wet blanket. If anything the blanket in this case is useless.

However if your horse has been clipped, in cold or even cool weather he is going to need more than a simple warm blanket to provide insulation that his hair coat would have done.

Besides protecting your horse from weather elements, there are blankets to protect from flies and gnats which are useful. A cooler or a sweat sheet is another blanket that is highly recommended for a horse owner. This blanket allows your horse to cool down and dry after being washed or exercised, but protects from draughts or chills.

Horse blankets have various designs and uses. You can buy several or you can buy one, only make sure that the blanket best suits your horses needs. You can then choose any color to your liking, provided they are made in that color.

Horse Guide.

Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about Buying Horse Blankets. Learn about your horses anatomy.

Author: Benjamin Wise
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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There is so much excitement and anticipation in the very art of buying a horse. It is certainly a task not to be taken lightly. A horse is certainly not as easy to drop off at your local shelter as a cat is. When you buy a horse it should be genuine, not a spur of the moment whim.

The biggest consideration when buying a horse is where to keep him. Investigating local stables and yards, finding out the fee and what you are paying for is an important step to make the transition easier. I have yet to find a stable that pays for horse shoeing, unless it is on their horses!

Once you’ve settled on a place to keep your horse, you can then indulge yourself in finding a good horse. Horses are easy enough to come by, but not all horses are alike. We know that all horses bite, it is a fact horse owners rarely think about. However when buying a horse it is a tidbit to keep handy.

Some horses due to cruel handling, neglect or an aggressive streak will bite. Biting is a bad habit called a vice, horses that bite do not make a good first horse purchase. There is fact in the saying “once bitten twice shy”!

Read up on vices so you know one when you see one and if the current owner says the horse crib bites, you’ll know what that means and whether it is a vice you can live with. Remember the horse is yours and will be your responsibility once you purchase it.

Like humans you have horses in good health and others in questionable health. Some owners will try to sell a horse when they find out his health is less than perfect. The horse could have been in a field and cut his leg. Seems like an every day possibility but depending on where and how severe the cut, he could have done permanent damage. He would thus have a weakness and be prone to lameness.

It is always a good idea to have a veterinarian inspect the horse you want to purchase. That way any possibility of ill health can be brought to your attention and you are in control of taking on the responsibility or not.

Find out if people know about the horse and let them tell you their view of the horse. What is he like on an every day basis when a prospective buyer is not looking? Some horses are lunged to tire them out before a buyer comes to ride…

Yes, riding is sure a very important step when buying a horse! I was so desperate to buy my first horse that I overlooked this step and regretted it every day of the two years I owned the horse. Sometimes you can simply get sold by the look of a horse…

Make sure you buy a good horse that is right for you. The best way to do that is to read and gain knowledge of horses. Take a trainer or experienced horse person with you, but be sure to trust your instinct and have the knowledge to make the best decision for you. Turns out the person I took with me to buy my first horse was really looking for something they wanted.

Horses. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about buying a horse. Learn all about your horse starting today.

Author: Benjamin Wise
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horses are very useful and trainable animals. They can me used for a limitless variety of tasks such as farming, sports, recreation, and even warfare. Their tremendous strength and endurance are very valuable attributes. Not only are they gifted with tremendous physical qualities but they are also intelligent and very receptive to human commands. Beginner horse training can be fun for both you and your equine companion. There are many different types of horse training techniques, so make sure you are knowledgeable about whatever you choose to apply.

Horses can even be trained in specialized tasks and they thrive in any work they are assigned to do. They can do police work, and they can also be graceful animals for royalty and equestrian activities. They can also be used on farms and in the wilderness. Horses are incredibly versatile animals. They are functional as well as exquisite. Not to mention the fact that they love to please.

However, training a horse can be a real challenge especially for beginners and new horse owners. First and foremost, to be able to train a horse well, the individual must understand how the horse thinks and always — I mean always — consider the animal’s instincts! As animals, instincts always reign above any training or conditioning. Having said that, a horse can be trained quickly and easily when you understand their innate behavior and work with the animal to achieve the desired success. Here are a few tips to help your beginner horse training to move along more smoothly.

1. Horses are fearful creatures

By instinct of preservation, horses are naturally fearful creatures. Because they are a prey animal, they may exhibit reservation with other animals and people in new situations. If the horse doesn’t know you, it will judge you based on your actions, before finally deciding that you are not someone with bad intentions. It bases its decisions on your body language and believe it or not, your thoughts, and will respond accordingly based on what it perceives. The horse will either flee, embrace your friendship or study you further.

2. Gradual training is essential

One must understand that it takes a while for horses to warm up. Training often needs to be a gradual process. You must learn how to tame the horse correctly and effectively. Like dogs, horses must see its trainer as its leader — gender is rarely an issue. It should be noted that some horses are natural leaders, therefore, dominant. If you own one with such characteristic, training can be a bit tougher. Make sure you are asserting dominance at all times. Tough love can be the best thing for both of you till you structure the pecking order of the “herd”.

3. Horses are herd animals

Horses are herd animals and they naturally function in this manner. They will always want someone to lead them. Remember to speak their language in your training. This will speed up the process immensely. Do your own due diligence on the language of equus and natural horsemanship.

4. Riding the horse is not the first step

Before actually riding the horse, you must do some ground work and training. There is no shortcut especially for beginners. Longing and bending is a must at first. Teach commands while longing before putting your rear on the saddle. A horse must be body-aware and desensitized. If you want to get bucked off, skip your groundwork.

5. Proper manners on lead

Lead training is absolutely necessary. A horse MUST display manners with humans on the ground. Teach the horse to walk beside on a lead while giving it basic commands like to turn or stop. Some horses will test your dominance during lead training. It is vital to let the animal know who’s boss.

6. Warm-up the horse before riding

Even with a horse that is already trained, it is still advisable to warm-up your horse physically and mentally before riding it. Do a bit of longing or some exercises in groundword, so the animal will know what to expect.

7. Cooling the animal off

Training sessions must end with a cool down period. Just as with a primed athlete, the animal must be give a chance to settle his muscles. Let the animal relax and wind down. A tired and frustrated horse is very difficult to train. As a rule of the thumb, make every training session a pleasant experience for the horse, always ending on a good note and before the animal has a chance to loose interest. The animal will be happy to learn and do some training again when it knows that the experience is worthwhile. Remember…. Positive reinforcement is a crucial key to success.

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Author: Annabelle Cabella
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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If this is going to be the first horse you own, make sure you know how much money you have to spend on the horse. A horse is an expensive animal to purchase, say nothing of the whole hobby of horse ownership. Read through the segments below to help you calculate the costs you can expect to incur. Research, then type up the costs of these products and services in your area. Make sure the total amount fits into your budget. Also, bear in mind the results you compile are likely to vary between states, regions and counties. In general, boarding, hay, and vet care are more expensive in bigger cities than in the country.

Initial Costs
The amount of money you spend on a horse depends on several factors, including the horse’s age and training. If you only want a pet for the pleasure of riding, expect to pay $1,600 to $1,800 almost anywhere you live. If you intend to show the horse, you will pay much more. The show horse is what makes the difference in cost depending on your locality. Equipment and supplies are another immediate expense. The short list includes a saddle, saddle pad, bridle, halter, and grooming equipment. Riding clothes are needed, too, if this is not just a pet horse. If you are going to board the horse on your property, and you don’t already have horse facilities, you need to build them beforehand. If this is all new to you, the cost of all this can really open your eyes.

Ongoing Expenses
Most people think the initial outlay for a horse and equipment is the largest expense they’ll have after becoming horse owners. The reality is that maintenance will cost much more over the life span of the animal. Expect to encounter regular expenses when owning a horse. The cost of each item and service in the list below will vary depending on where you live, so do your research. Call local veterinarians, farriers (the people who trim and put shoes on hooves), and tack and feed stores to determine how much each item will cost. Estimate high so you won’t be disappointed.

Boarding: If you don’t have your own horse property, you’ll need to keep your horse some place else. The most likely option is a commercial boarding farm. The stable where you take lessons might offer this service. When boarding, you have to pay a monthly fee for a stall, pasture, or a fenced enclosure. This fee usually includes food and stall maintenance, but may not include bedding.

Bedding: If your horse is boarded where bedding isn’t part of the plan, or you wish to keep him at home, you’ll have to provide shavings or another type of bedding, which you will need to clean and freshen every day.

Feed: If your horse lives with you, you need to provide feed, which includes hay and/or maintenance of your pasture. Don’t forget feed extras, such as pellets or food for special dietary needs

Dietary supplements: Feed supplements, which you can add to help your horse’s joints, attitude, or other issues, are popular and plentiful at tack and feed stores. If you plan to give one or more of these supplements to your horse, add this cost to your monthly estimate.

Veterinary treatment: Horses can get sick, too. When it happens to your household, you have to call out the vet. The problem might be minor or require minimal treatment. I might be major and require surgery. Vet bills can be very high, and they can rise quickly if a horse has a serious or a chronic problem.

Preventive veterinary care: All adult horses need regular preventive care. Vaccinations and de-worming usually necessary several times each year. Overgrown teeth are a common problem requiring filing at least once each year.

Shoes and hoof trimming: Horses that wear shoes require new ones every six to eight weeks. A farrier will still need to trim the hooves of the horse if you choose to have him remain shoeless.

Insurance: Many horse owners insure their animals for major medical, mortality, loss of use, and/or liability. It’s usually a good idea. Add the cost of premiums to your list.

Training and lessons: If you are a beginning rider, you will want basic lessons in these skills. Your horse needs to train right along with you. Training is especially necessary if you intend to show your horse. Lessons are usually weekly expenses.

Show expenses: If you plan to show your horse, you have to spend money on show clothes, tack (equipment for your horse), entry fees, and transportation.

Now comes the scary part. Add the total costs. You’ll quickly discover the shape and color of your horse future. The number may not look very cheerful, but too many that have preceded you have gotten their feet wet, not expecting to take a bath.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

If you already own a Bunn, always use Bunn coffee filters to prevent overflow and to remove all chances of a bitter or papery taste in your coffee.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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What do you do when your horse is sick? Do you run and grab every homeopathic remedy, feed supplement, drug, new horse feed, and bodywork manual on your shelves? Do you drive your horse straight the vet and hope the bill isn’t going to kill you? Do you call up every horse-loving friend you have and ask for advice?

In short, do you throw everything but the kitchen sink at your horse and hope that SOMETHING works?

Horse Health Care: The Beauty of One Thing at a Time

When I first began working with holistic veterinarian Dr. Madalyn Ward and learning about subjects like herbs, homeopathy, nutrition, and bodywork, one of the first lessons she taught me is this:

“When treating a horse for any condition, try one thing at a time otherwise you won’t know what works and what doesn’t.”

That’s a really hard lesson for horse owners to learn, especially when it comes to their own horses. We all hate seeing our horses in pain, whether it be from hurting hooves, an ouchy ulcer, or an oozing abscess. We want it fixed and we want it fixed now!

But often times throwing every remedy but the kitchen sink at your horse only confuses the situation… and ends up costing you more money.

A Weight Loss Example

For instance, suppose your horse is losing weight this winter. This could happen for a number of reasons, including:

• he’s not getting enough food
• he’s not digesting his food well because of ulcers or other issues
• he’s shivering off all the calories you feed him
• he’s not getting the right kind of food
• he’s in with a group of horses who move him around too much

This is just a short list. There are all kinds of other reasons in the horse health care sphere that could explain why he is losing weight, but this covers the basics.

So everyday you go out to feed this horse and he’s cold, he’s lost weight, he’s shivering, and he looks totally miserable. I’ve known people who react by doing all the following:

• blanket the horse
• feed him more grain AND more hay
• add beet pulp and corn oil to his diet
• stop riding him
• move him away from other horses
• put him on Stomach Soother or Succeed in case he has an ulcer

Wow, that’s a lot of “doing”! It does cover a lot of horse health issues in a “just in case” kind of way, but it’s a costly way to do things. Instead of doing all of the above, it makes more sense to figure out why the horse is losing weight, then make one or two changes at a time and see what happens. You can ask yourself some questions to help you figure out what’s going on. Here are some examples.

1. Is the horse being pushed off his feed or moved around all the time by other horses?

If this is case, then putting him in with another gentle horse who shares well can help your horse get more feed and conserve more energy. Often times, older horses or horses with a quiet disposition make good companions.

2. Does the horse eat his feed well or does he take breaks in-between to just stand or to lie down?

This usually indicates an ulcer of some kind. If this is the case, you can try adding a natural ulcer supplement like Succeed or Stomach Soother to his diet to see if this helps. Acidophilus, bifidus, and enzymes are also good options.

3. Has he had his teeth floated recently?

If it has been more than a year since he’s had a float, you might consider taking him into the equine dentist. A horse with sharp points and hooks on his teeth is likely to develop ulcers in his mouth, making eating painful. This often accounts for weight loss.

4. Does he shiver in the cold?

If so, add fiber rather than grain to his diet. Fiber is digested in a horse’s hindgut and produces a lot more warmth than grain, which is digested in the small intestine. If your horse is quite thin, putting a blanket on AND adding more hay to his diet is probably a good combination.

5. Is he in pain?

If you have ever had to deal with an abscessed tooth, migraine headaches, or any other kind of chronic painful conditions, then you know that pain can eat up your body’s physical resources faster than running a marathon. If your horse is in undiagnosed pain, he may be using up all his calories just to deal with pain. If your horse has a stoic personality, he may not tell you he is in pain (learn more about horse personality types on the Horse Harmony website). Consider taking your horse to the vet to get a once-over before making a decision about what and how to remedy the situation.

Horse Health Care and the Conservative Approach

In an article of this length, it’s not possible to cover all the questions that you might have to ask yourself about your horse to figure out what’s wrong, but you get the picture. If you have a hard time figuring out what’s going on in your horse’s body and brain, check out these two websites:

Holistic Horsekeeping (has a wealth of horse health care resources)

Herbs and Animals (a great animal communication site)

Stephanie Yeh is a zen cowgirl obsessed about horses, healing, natural remedies, herbs, magic, MLM, and more. Check out natural horse care tips, ways to fund your horse obsession, natural health products, and more on her blog ( http://zencowgirl.blogspot.com ). Get her free ebook for wacky horses and humans, and order XanGo mangosteen products on her website ( http://www.mangosteengood.com ).

Author: Stephanie H. Yeh
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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