Posts Tagged ‘horse health’

When looking for stabling what is important to consider is the actual structure and environment of the stable. The best way to choose a stable for your horse is to know some basic facts and then to actually visit stable in your area to get a comparison.

There are basic items that every stable horse should have. When visiting a yard keep these items in mind to ensure that your horse will be well cared for. A neglected stable horse can result in a costly veterinarian bill.

From the moment you drive into a yard, your eyes should be on the lookout. What does the fencing look like? Is it well maintained and safe for a horse? Is the property and fields securely gated? Are the horses content in the fields or are there too many horses in one field?

When you enter a yard is your presence noted? Is there some one to assist you or some one taking care of the horses? It is advisable to call before visiting a yard especially if you visit during lunch when most of the staff may not be in the yard.

What do the stables look like? Are they well maintained with no loose nails, broken doors, uneven and badly cracked surfaces? Is the stable a comfortable size for your horse?

Do the stables have good ventilation and fresh air circulating? Are the stables well lit with natural light and or artificial light? Does every stable offer clean fresh water? Do the horses have hay in the stable?

What does the floor of the stable look like? Is there rubber matting, straw, dirt or sawdust for the floor? Does the floor drain well? Are the stable beds cleaned out regularly? A good sign if anything else is the smell. A well kept yard does not have a strong smell of ammonia (urine).

What do the horses in the various stables look like? Are they shaggy and unkempt or are they groomed? What are the horses doing – the behavior of the stabled horses is a clear sign of what type of stable environment you are looking at. An unhappy horse will most likely be chewing wood, box walking, kicking, wind-sucking amongst other vices.

Vices are however not the only way to tell a bad stable from a good one. Some horses may have developed the vice elsewhere, so concern yourself if a number of horses are all showing signs of agitation and boredom.

When looking for a stable your horses comfort should come first. He does not need a state of the art tack room or huge covered outdoor arena. He needs basics and it is trusting you to supply them.

Horses. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about stabling a horse. Learn about your horse.

Author: Benjamin Wise
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Hybrid and Electric Cars

If you own a horse, it is very important that you understand several basic parts of the horse’s anatomy to be sure you are caring for your horse in the best way possible. You can do this through studying on your own or you can talk to your vet to learn the basics.

First of all, you should know that laying down is very hard on your horse. If a horse lays down for any amount of time they are risking damage to their internal organs. A horse’s body is not meant to lay down for long periods of time, which is why you need to know that if your horse is laying down, there is something wrong with him. If you see your horse laying down, you have to be sure to call your vet immediately, because it is an emergency.

Your horse’s legs are the most important part of his body. Not only do they carry all of his weight, and support him while he is sleeping or while he is awake, they are very thin and are easy to damage. If a horse gets a broken leg, there is going to be a lot of problems because he won’t be able to lie down to mend it, which means that the healing process can be quite painful. What this means for you is that you have to be sure to always, always take care of your horse’s legs and feet. This is very important as a horse owner.

Another thing that you have to be sure to take care of is his skin and his coat. These are things that you have to focus on because they keep out a lot of problems and keep your horse happy and healthy. You should be grooming your horse each day, and especially should be grooming him after each time you ride him.

It is also important to note that a horse has a very advanced heart and lung system that can allow them to keep running or walking for long periods of time. This does not mean that your horse never needs to rest; it simply means that you can exercise your horse more than you are going to be able to exercise yourself!

Keep all of these things in mind if you own a horse. You always want to be sure that you are doing the best that you can do to care for all aspects of your horse.

Lynn Stanley was born in 1956 in Sandusky Ohio. He is a fun loving person who wishes nothing but the best for everyone.

For more articles on horse health as well as the latest in equestrian news please visit my blog at: http://horsehealthandyou.blogspot.com/

Author: Lynn Stanley
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Humorous photo captions

Grooming horses is very important to a horse’s health. Grooming promotes muscle tone and circulation. Just like us humans need a good rub and groom once in a while – it’s the same for animals. You know that when you pet a friendly dog – they look up to you with those eyes and they just fall in love with you, well again, it’s the same for horses. Grooming strengthens the bond between the horse and it’s owner and also allows the owner to look over the horse to see if it has any injuries and such. Of course, the main reason one would groom a horse would be to basically make it look purty of course!!

The equipment you need to groom a horse are:

1) hoof pick
2) dandy brush
3) rubber curry comb – to clean the dandy brush after use
4) plastic curry comb
5) body Brush
6) metal curry comb
7) 2 used cold tea bags (optional)
stable rubber / tea towel
9) strapping pad
10) water brush
11) clean sponges
12) tale bandage
13) mane and tale conditioner
14) Hoof oil and a brush

Seems like a lot huh – well if done right, it should take you approximately 45 minutes to groom a horse correctly!

The first step is to start cleaning the hooves with the hoof pick. First tie up the horse outside and if the horse is fussy, give him a hay net to play with to distract him. Make sure you clean the hoof from heal to toe.

Next, take the dandy brush to remove any dirt on your horse. It’s best to start at the neck and go down the body then down the legs.

Next, remove hair and promote circulation with the rubber curry comb. This is the part of the grooming that promotes circulation – your horse will be very happy when you are doing this!! Avoid the legs during this stage.

Next remove dirt with body brush and metal curry comb. Be firm during this act. Hold the metal curry comb in the other hand and scrape the dirt off so that you can continue cleaning the horse.

Next is the head – remove the head collar and hold the head with the hand you are not going to be grooming with. Use the body brush to clean the head.

Next brush the mane with either your fingers or the body brush. Go here to see some natural products to promote a shiny horse coat and mane. Keeping horses healthy the natural way is always best!!

Don’t forget the tale, horse lovers!! Spray some condition and brush that pony tale, pardon the pun!! *** Be careful not to stand directly behind the horse in case the horse kicks**!!

Next, grab the dampened sponge and wipe around the eyes and nose of the horse. Use the tea bag to wipe down the eyes as well, but this is optional.

Next, (this will won’t be your favorite part) – but take a different wet sponge and wipe around the horse’s bottom area. told you you wouldn’t like it! LOL!!

The tale bandage gets wrapped around the tail for a neater appearance when it is removed.

Use the strapping pad to strap the horse. This is a skilled process which I will discuss in later articles. Only if you feel comfortable, this is the time to strap the horse.

Lastly, take a damp towel and wipe down your horse. This will make your horse feel refreshed for sure!!

Actually, one more step – and that is to grease both the inside and outside of the hooves with oil.

That’s it. Now you are happy that you have a clean horse and your horse is happy because he just got done with a massage!!

Debbie Drum – The All Natural Pet Helper

For Natural Horse Health.

Author: Debbie Drum
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Anti-angiogenic Food

As any pet is cared for within the home, the care for horses is very much the same; ensuring the proper medical, physical, and nutritional care for a horse is part of the responsibility of its owners. There are many different facets of horse health and all must be attended to in order to ensure the horse’s vitality and longevity.

In order to be well-versed on horse health it is important to understand the signs of a healthy horse; conversely when those signs wane, you will immediately be alerted to a possible decline in the health of your horse. One quick indicator of horse health is the overall appearance of the animal. A healthy horse has a shiny, slick coat with a hard hoof. Any nutritional issues would immediately show up on the horse’s coat – resulting in dullness, slowed shedding, and even bald patches. Additionally, dry and cracked hoofs could be a sign of dehydration or poor circulation.

Of course, not much tells a greater story of horse health than the horse’s eating and drinking behaviors. The sudden and ongoing decrease in appetite or refusal to eat and drink altogether can be a common sign of a horse in dangerous health. Pay attention to the amount of grazing a horse does during the course of the day, its ability to hold food in its mouth and chew (problems with this could indicate teeth/mouth conditions) as well as the frequency with which it urinates and eliminates waste, and any weight fluctuations in the animal.

One of the most important indicators of horse health is behavior; like people, horses have their own personalities so what behavior may inspire concern when exhibited by one horse may be well within the boundaries of another horse’s personality. But there are a few common behaviors that generally signal distress across the board including the appearance of anxiety, lethargy or fatigue, decreased socialization, and stall weaving – a behavior signaling heightened anxiety wherein the horse paces around its stall. A healthy horse should also move unreservedly; any limping or bobbing of the head often indicates painful movement and a veterinarian should be consulted immediately.

As a matter of fact, the most important step to preserving horse health is an established relationship with a reputable veterinarian. As a horse owner, you are the first line of defense in maintaining the health of your horse; you are in a better position than anyone to recognize signs and symptoms that may indicate trouble for your horse. A veterinarian, however, in addition to performing frequent check-ups, can help you identify and address any health concerns you have throughout the lifetime of the horse.

Owning a horse can be a wonderful experience; but also an enormous responsibility. Just as children depend on us to care for them in every capacity, a domesticated horse relies on its human companions in much the same way. In this role, it is incumbent upon us to understand the many facets of horse health and do all that we can to do to protect the lives and vitality of our animal friends.

For more information on horses, try visiting http://www.interestinghorses.com – a website that specializes in providing horse related tips, advice and resources including information on horse health.

Author: Riley Hendersen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
How Electric Pressure Cookers Work

Horses are living creatures with needs and emotions. But if you love horses, you don’t need to be told that. And like all living creatures, they need to be kept healthy if they are to be happy and successful. However, this world can be tough, and “nature red in tooth and claw” has a number of threats to horse health that a wise owner will want to watch out for.

Living conditions are the first consideration when it comes to horse health. If a horse is kept stabled, the stable will need to be kept free from damp and mould – and, to consider the opposite extreme, protected from excessive heat.
The straw or other bedding used to cover the floor of the stable should be mucked out regularly, preferably daily, and care should be taken that the new bedding is free from mould, damp or mildew. The stable should also be checked carefully to make sure that there are no sharp edges that a horse can cut itself on.

If a horse is kept in pasture, a shelter of some kind must be provided so the horse can find shade from excessive heat, or cover from rain. The field must also be checked to ensure that no poisonous plants such as nightshade or hemlock are growing in it or near it where the horse can eat them. Fencing should be checked to make sure that the horse cannot escape and that it has no sharp projections that a horse could cut itself on if it uses the fence to itch itself.

Correct feeding is another vital aspect of horse health. While it is obvious that malnutrition is bad for any horse, excessive or incorrect feeding can also be a threat to horse health. Colic can be caused by eating the wrong sort of food, such as under-ripe apples are notorious and eating too much can cause a horse to founder and run the risk of laminitis.

Stabled horses, in particular, require especial care for their diets. The right proportion of energy foods should be given according to the work the horse is performing. Fresh food, such as raw fruits and vegetables, will be a welcome addition to a horse’s diet, and it stands to reason that horse health as well as human health will benefit from the vitamins provided by these.

Horses, like other companion and working animals, need protection and medication to ensure that they are free from parasites. Veterinarians recommend that horses be wormed twice a year, preferably in autumn and spring, to ensure optimum horse health.

Mucking out stables and/or pasture frequently is another important part of controlling parasites. In this respect, keeping a horse at pasture can be an advantage, as a horse can be moved from field to field, thus ensuring that any parasites in the dung will die and/or be dispersed before the horse returns to that particular field again.

On a day to day basis, the most important part of horse health is regular interaction between horse and rider. Daily grooming, feeding and riding is not only the source of much pleasure for both horse and human, but it also gives the rider/owner a chance to make sure that their horse remains in good condition.

By interacting with a horse daily, it is very easy to see if the horse is showing any signs of poor health, such as poor coat condition, mucus in the eyes, scouring (diarrhoea), strange lumps or cuts. But if you love horses, you’ll be spending time with your horse, anyway.

For more information on horses, try visiting http://www.interestinghorses.com – a website that specializes in providing horse related tips, advice and resources including information on horse health

Author: Samantha Kay
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Even more essential to horses than humans, a steady supply of good food and water is vital to horse health. Horses naturally spend most of their time chewing, swallowing, and digesting. As with most herd animals, the equine digestive system is meant to be constantly on the go and to process vast quantities of fibrous food that we would find utterly impossible. To give your horse the best chance at a happy, long life, I will outline the basics of food and water for your horse.

Food for Your Horse

There are understandable disagreements about the best food for a horse. After all, there are so many factors to consider, and each horse is unique within different environments. Individual horses have different nutritional requirements. Where and how the horse lives, the age of the horse, what kind of work the horse does, and the horse’s own physiology affects the optimal diet. In general, horses that are ridden hard in demanding disciplines, such as cattle work, need more calories than horses used for casual trail use. Therefore, the advice below will provide you with a solid understanding of the needs of most horses. Horse veterinarians will be your best source for your horse’s specific food requirements. He’ll have access to the horse’s records, and will be familiar with his nutritional needs. He will also be more aware of the types of locally available hay for your animal. What is plentiful in one part of the country may be far too expensive in another.

Hay is basically composed of plants that have been cut, dried, and baled. There are two types of hay, legumes and grasses. Alfalfa, rich in protein, calcium, and other nutrients, is the legume horses most commonly eat, though some vets believe it’s far too rich for horses, and should be left for cattle. The most common grass hays are timothy, orchard, and bermuda. Hay is a proper stable food for a horse. It provides roughage in addition to nutrition. Roughage is vital to keep the horse’s digestive system working properly and also satisfies the horse’s natural tendency to chew.

Hay cubes are concentrated blocks of hay. Hay cubes tend to be cheaper than hay and are good for older horses with worn-down teeth. This is because the cubes break apart easily when chewed. Cubes are less dusty, as well, so it’s easier on horses that may have respiratory problems. Cubes are also ideal for horses who have trouble maintaining a good weight. Nonetheless, most horses prefer baled hay to cubes because the normal hay gives them plenty on which to chew.

Pasture grass is the ideal staple food if there is enough volume and diversity of its content. Horses are happiest in pastures, and follow their instincts honed over thousands of years of browsing. You can verify that your pasture is of good quality by calling your local agricultural office. Ask an expert to inspect your pasture, and to help you analyze its nutritional content. Otherwise, supplementation of ordinary hay may be required. If it is less than optimal, measures can taken for fortify and improve a horse pasture. If you don’t have pasture land, and wish to create it, don’t begin without contacting a local agricultural agent for knowledge and help. Be forewarned; starting and maintaining a quality horse pasture can be a big undertaking.

Watering Your Horse

I can’t overemphasize the importance of providing plenty of clean, fresh water as part your horse’s daily care. Humans unwisely do without it daily, but a horse’s need for water is even more acute. The horse’s health and digestive ability heavily depends upon it. An automatic watering device that can be set up in the horse’s stall is best. A large bucket that you refill several times a day is an alternative, or a trough that holds enough water for a day or two at a time.

If you stable your horse where temperatures fall below freezing, you need to keep your horse’s water supply from turning to ice. Consider using a heating element made especially to work with horse watering devices or manually break the ice whenever it forms. Cold water doesn’t do horses any good. I recommend the heating element because it requires less work on your part and also keeps the water at a warmer temperature, encouraging your horse to drink.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

If you already own a Bunn, always use Bunn coffee filters to prevent overflow and to remove all chances of a bitter or papery taste in your coffee.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

Prevention is much better (and less expensive) than cure. Horses should be wormed periodically, to a schedule. They should receive the required inoculations and they should have a yearly dental check. As intestinal parasites vary from region to region, the type and frequency of worming will also vary accordingly. Likewise, a horse which is always on the same pasture with the same horses may not need the same level of inoculations as a horse which travels a lot, including competitions. In areas with high levels of Lyme disease, anti-tick medication may be advisable. Consequently, one needs to discuss with a local veterinarian the local requirements, taking into account how the horse is used, to determine the most appropriate actions.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

Before buying or choosing a new horse, it is important to check its health. Although it is impossible to be 100% certain that a horse is completely healthy, there are a number of tests which can identify most potential health risks. Following is a checklist.

The first indication is the general appearance. It should have a shinny, even and flat coat. The body should be well muscled, neither fat nor skinny. When standing, it should spread its weight evenly on all four legs, with each hoof pointing straight ahead. While normal to rest a leg from time to time, it should not be for long periods or always the same leg, as this would indicate an injury or weakness.

Slowly run your hands down the legs, from top to bottom, with careful attention to joints and the lower leg. There should be no bumps, swellings or hot spots. The hoof walls should be even, free of cracks and completely smooth.

Lift a hoof and examine the sole to ensure that there are no marks or indications of previous injury and that it is correctly shaped. Repeat with the other hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift one of its feet, this may be because it does not want to lift a good leg and put more weight on a bad one. The hooves are perhaps the most important area to examine in terms of horse health, as so many otherwise good horses have problems here.

The gums should be shinny, moist and pink. If one presses on the gums with a finger, they will turn white, but should return to pink within two seconds of removing your finger.

Check the teeth (you may want to use the services of a horse dentist) for spurs, unevenness or excessive wear. Try feeding the horse hay and watch how it eats. It should use both sides of its jaw equally and eat steadily. Dropping hay or leaving hay partly chewed indicates a problem either with the teeth or the jaw joints.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should consist of firm balls, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should look happy, alert and interested in what is happening. Its ears should stand up and should move alertly in response to sounds. It should be interested in what is happening around it, but not nervous.

Have someone work the horse in an exercise ring while you watch. They should gradually go through all the gaits (walk, trot and gallop), in both directions. The horse should show easy, smooth strides, with the weight distributed evenly on all four legs.

It should not sweat (except during hot weather) until it has been worked for some time at speed. Its respiration should gradually increase as the gait picks up but it should not breathe hard except at a fast gait. As the gait is reduced, its respiration should quickly reduce. Once the horse stops, its breathing and pulse should quickly return to resting normal. Neither during nor after exercise should the horse shown any sign of discomfort, pain or limping.

One should also ask the current owner about the medical history and ask permission to discuss the horse with its regular vet. Ask to see the inoculation and medical records for the horse. Ask if it has every had any illness, in particular colic or laminitis. Be concerned about any incomplete or evasive answers.