Posts Tagged ‘horse hay’

Getting a Horse – Ten Things to Consider Before You Buy

You have decided you want a horse. Great! Given the current state of the horse market there are many horses who need homes. The price of buying a horse has never been cheaper. But – what must be considered before you buy that pretty purple halter and look for a pony face to put it on?

1. The purchase price of a horse is the cheapest part. We won’t even worry about how much to pay for a horse. Expenses simply begin to add up as soon as you take ownership.

2. Where are you going to keep your horse? To pasture a horse and rely on grass as the main source of feed, you’ll need between five and fifty acres depending on where you live. More horses, more acres.

3. Let’s assume you have sufficient pastureland. To maintain good pasture you have to mow, weed kill and fertilize as required or you’ll end up with a dry lot full of manure and weeds.

4. Whether you keep your horse in a pasture or dirt corral, you will need to provide a suitable shelter from rain, cold, snow or sun. Have you included a horse house in your budget? If your horse’s shelter isn’t sturdy and safe, I promise you will be calling the vet to stitch or patch injuries caused by screws, nails, wire, loose boards or sharp metal edges.

5. Horses eat a lot. Have you ever heard the saying, “He eats like a horse?” Hay, pelleted feed and oats are very expensive. You could easily spend $5 – $10 per day on feed alone. Providing clean, high quality feed is important. If you skimp in consistent quantity or quality, you’ll need to get out the phone and call the vet again when your horse colics.

6. Do you have basic tack and equipment? Saddle, bridle, halters, leads, buckets, boots (for both you and the horse), curry and brushes, hoof pick, longe line, longe whip, clippers? The list is endless; just take a walk through one of the horse tack and equipment catalogs.

7. Do you need lessons? Horses are wonderful animals; they will give you the most honest feedback possible on earth. One of you is always certain to learn leadership skills. If you’re not sure how to be a good leader, be sure to budget for lessons with a reputable trainer.

8. Make sure you know what you want to do with your new horse. Do you want to spend weekends riding in the country, win a world championship at a breed show, work cattle, rope, barrel race or jump? All horses can do most things, though not equally well. The higher your goals, the more specific you need to be when selecting your equine partner. Be certain the horse you select already knows how to do what you have in mind. Unless you are an experienced trainer, test ride the horse in the event of your choice before you buy; do not buy a ‘prospect.’

9. How much time have you budgeted for your horse? I always tell prospective owners, “You can have a horse or you can have a life. You can’t have both.” This isn’t just a piece of property you’re thinking about. Horses are herd animals in need of leadership, companionship and relationship. If you just want a pasture ornament, great. But, buy at least two. Don’t keep a horse alone unless you are prepared to spend hours with it every day.

10. Have we talked yet about veterinarians and farriers? The amount of routine and preventative care needed to properly maintain your horse is significant. In most areas of the country your horse will need to be shod every six weeks. If you live where there are no rocks you can get by with just a trim. Still, you may expect to pay between $35 and $125 every six weeks just for manicures. Horses need annual vaccinations, worming from four to eight times each year, dental check-ups for sharp teeth annually and yearly Coggins tests (by law.) Expect to budget another $500 to $1000 yearly for basic healthcare. Depending on your area this amount could be significantly more. Unforeseen problems? Get out the checkbook.

Okay, add up the numbers. Consider the time commitment. I know it seems almost too much. But, not if you have the time and place in your heart for one of the most rewarding relationships ever offered a human being. If you’re still reading, you’re still interested.

Nothing compares to the connection possible between human and horse. There are few experiences as magical as those moments when the two of you fly across the landscape as one, or simply spend a warm summer evening, lazing together under a shady tree sharing each other’s thoughts.

Lynn Baber is a Christian writer, business woman and retired equine professional. She shares the lessons learned in thirty-five years at the business table and round pen with her clients and readers. Highly credentialed in issues of leadership, customer relations and most things equine, Lynn has a unique perspective not found elsewhere. Whether the topic is customer service or training stallions, Lynn brings years of experience to presentations and articles. Her latest book based on our amazing relationships with horses is previewed at http://AmazingGrays.us

For more insights, visit Lynn’s blog at http://LynnBaber.net

Author: Lynn Baber
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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How to care and look after a horse?

Okay, I have a horse. But, I would like some care tips. I’m no expert and just want to make sure I’m doing everything right. What percentage of grains, horse feed, hay, and grass should be in the diet? How often do I need to float the teeth? How often should I worm? How often should I pick the hooves? Any other care tips and advice on horse ownership is appreciated. Thanks!

Test a Horse’s Health

Before buying or choosing a new horse, it is important to check its health. Although it is impossible to be 100% certain that a horse is completely healthy, there are a number of tests which can identify most potential health risks. Following is a checklist.

The first indication is the general appearance. It should have a shinny, even and flat coat. The body should be well muscled, neither fat nor skinny. When standing, it should spread its weight evenly on all four legs, with each hoof pointing straight ahead. While normal to rest a leg from time to time, it should not be for long periods or always the same leg, as this would indicate an injury or weakness.

Slowly run your hands down the legs, from top to bottom, with careful attention to joints and the lower leg. There should be no bumps, swellings or hot spots. The hoof walls should be even, free of cracks and completely smooth.

Lift a hoof and examine the sole to ensure that there are no marks or indications of previous injury and that it is correctly shaped. Repeat with the other hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift one of its feet, this may be because it does not want to lift a good leg and put more weight on a bad one. The hooves are perhaps the most important area to examine in terms of horse health, as so many otherwise good horses have problems here.

The gums should be shinny, moist and pink. If one presses on the gums with a finger, they will turn white, but should return to pink within two seconds of removing your finger.

Check the teeth (you may want to use the services of a horse dentist) for spurs, unevenness or excessive wear. Try feeding the horse hay and watch how it eats. It should use both sides of its jaw equally and eat steadily. Dropping hay or leaving hay partly chewed indicates a problem either with the teeth or the jaw joints.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should consist of firm balls, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should look happy, alert and interested in what is happening. Its ears should stand up and should move alertly in response to sounds. It should be interested in what is happening around it, but not nervous.

Have someone work the horse in an exercise ring while you watch. They should gradually go through all the gaits (walk, trot and gallop), in both directions. The horse should show easy, smooth strides, with the weight distributed evenly on all four legs.

It should not sweat (except during hot weather) until it has been worked for some time at speed. Its respiration should gradually increase as the gait picks up but it should not breathe hard except at a fast gait. As the gait is reduced, its respiration should quickly reduce. Once the horse stops, its breathing and pulse should quickly return to resting normal. Neither during nor after exercise should the horse shown any sign of discomfort, pain or limping.

One should also ask the current owner about the medical history and ask permission to discuss the horse with its regular vet. Ask to see the inoculation and medical records for the horse. Ask if it has every had any illness, in particular colic or laminitis. Be concerned about any incomplete or evasive answers.

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