Posts Tagged ‘Horse Care’

The maintenance routine will include frequently spreading manure droppings or picking them up. Horses can wear bald patches in the ground. This typically occurs in wet weather. A useful economic tip is to spread seeds that fall from the hay onto the bald patches. This will take care of those patches with new grass in season for your horses.

Maintaining your horse pasture with a variety of grasses should be your goal for good care. Safe herbs and other plants can also be included. Some horses enjoy eating blackberries which contain vitamin C. Brambles may be left in hedges many horses enjoy eating the young leaves of these plants. Dandelions are another highly nutritious plant for horses. They are also easy to seed. Good edible plants should be encouraged in your horse pasture.

Routine pasture inspection is practical horse care. Make sure all fences are in good repair. Carefully check for any poisonous plants frequently. Most people do not have the knowledge to identify poisonous plants in their horse pasture. If you are not familiar enough with the poisonous plants for the area where you live to readily identify them, purchase a good photographic guide to poisonous plants. Inspections for these plants should take place often because seeds from these plants can blow in and sprout anytime.

Here is a list of plants using their common names that may reduce the quality of your horse pasture and those that are unsafe for horses. If you find them in you horse grazing area take care that they are removed.

• Beech – Beech mast or the fruit is poisonous to horses.
• Box – This plant is often used as a hedge for gardens.
• Bracken – This plant is not usually eaten by horses. It should be pulled up and burned because it wastes valuable grazing and spreads.
• Buttercups – Horses usually do not eat this plant but weed killers can change the taste and they may be eaten then.
• Daffodil – If growing wild can be eaten.
• Deadly night shade – Can be eaten by horses that browse a hedgerow accidentally.
• Foxglove – Not usually eaten but it commonly grows in paddocks.
• Hemlock – The whole plant is deadly. Young shoots appearing in spring are sometimes eaten.
• Holly – The poisonous berries are at times eaten.
• Horse chestnut – Horses can not eat the fruit of this plant but they can eat the leaves.
• Ivy – This plant seems to do no harm is small quantities but not eaten in large amounts.
• Laburnum – If this plant is near a grazing area it should be removed, normally it is only grown in gardens.
• Oak – Consuming large amounts can cause colic in a horse and could be fatal. Sometimes a horse may crave acorns and in this case the acorns must be swept up and removed or select another pasture for the horse to graze.
• Oleander – This plant is deadly to both humans and horses. It is often used as an ornamental plant. Do not pasture a horse near this plant.
• Privet – This plant is poisonous to horses. It is commonly used as a hedge.
• Ragwort – This plant should be pulled up and burned. It can be fatal to horses.
• Yew – Poisoning from this plant happens quickly. Horses can be found dead with the plant still in its mouth.

When you are able to keep your horse in a pasture it is the best way to let him get exercise while grazing. At http://www.horse-central.com you can find information that can help you learn more about keeping your horse pastures safe and other ways to care for your horse.

Author: Fran Mullens
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Since i was little i’ve always wanted a horse. My parents always said no, because we never had the money or place to keep it. We now live in the country and my mom said i might be able to get one! I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on a breed. I want a horse that is calm and just for riding. I usually ride with an english saddle. I also have taken lessons on riding and horse care.

I would like to know how to saddle a horse and take care of one?
What are some concerns that a horse needs?
Is there a website for horse help?

After years of practicing both conventional and holistic medicine for horses, I decided to compare the cost, effectiveness, and net results of managing and treating horses holistically versus conventionally.

In this article I compare results for the average trail horse that is ridden about 2-3 times a week. I have used average feed and veterinary costs for my area (Austin, Texas), and drug and supplement costs from a major horse supply catalog.

I then discuss the issues related to each area of care, including feed, supplements, vaccines, dewormers, and first aid. Stay tuned for different profiles in coming months, when I will compare horses in different disciplines, young horses, older horses, and broodmares.

>>> Holistic Horse >> Conventional Horse Feed Costs

Grain is slightly cheaper to feed and easier to store than hay, which makes the conventional horse slightly cheaper to feed on the one hand. On the other hand, the holistic horse, which has access to more hay, stays happy and entertained and is less likely to develop expensive habits and vices such as chewing on wood, cribbing, or weaving.

Supplements

In the past, hay and oats provided all the nutrition a horse needed, but these days common farming practices do not produce feeds that are high in vitamins and minerals. Hoof quality is the first area to be affected by such poor nutrition, and few horses can maintain healthy feet on a diet of hay and oats alone. If you doubt this, just check any horse supply catalog. The one I checked offered 22 topical hoof conditioners and 28 separate supplements. Cell Tech’s Super Blue Green Algae offers a wide range of vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants in a whole food form. It is inexpensive to feed, promotes healthy feet, and supports the horse in all aspects of health.

Vaccines

Some people will choose not to vaccinate at all while others will choose to use more vaccines than the ones I’ve listed in the trail horse comparison. I believe that over-vaccination is one of the most common triggers for chronic diseases such as laminitis and uveitis, and contributes to allergic conditions. Stressing the horse’s system with over-vaccination can also affect the digestive system, leading to mineral deficiencies. Stress also decreases the amount of healthy bacterial flora in the gut, increasing the likelihood of colic.

Dewormers

We are fortunate to have some fairly safe chemical dewormers such as Pyrantel and Fenbendazole, yet some people still prefer using natural products to support the horse’s digestive and immune systems rather than using chemical dewormers. Regardless of which method you use, it is wise to double check your program with fecal exams at least twice a year.

First Aid

When I practiced strictly conventional medicine I found that most horses suffered from minor injuries or infections at least several times a year. These minor emergencies kept me busy, and because they were so common most of my clients started keeping drugs on hand and learned to treat these conditions themselves.

When I began to treat my patients more holistically, with fewer vaccines and better nutrition (including the use of probiotics such as Acidophilus), I noticed that the horses had less and less need for drugs. My patients no longer needed bute or antibiotics for minor cuts and punctures. These wounds healed quickly and easily with no loss of riding time. Gone also was the aggravating chronic nasal discharge that often kept horses out of work for weeks at a time.

A holistically managed horse with a healthy immune system will often run a fever for a short period of time when exposed to a virus or bacteria. This response slows the pathogen’s growth and deprives it of nutrients. A short course of probiotics will help support the horse during this time. Once the fever breaks, the horse bounces back quickly with little nasal discharge or cough. These horses then go right back to work without concern about relapse. Conventionally managed horses taking anti-inflammatories and antibiotics will often get better in the short term, but then relapse or develop a chronic nasal discharge.

The Results Are In!

The trail horse example I have used above precisely demonstrates what I have experienced in my practice. While it costs about the same to manage a horse either conventionally or holistically, I’ve found that holistically managed horses are much healthier overall, which means fewer chronic problems and more days of riding time. In fact, conventionally managed horses have about 7 times the number of sick days as holistically managed horses.

Madalyn Ward, DVM, co-author of Holistic Treatment of Chronic Lamintis, is certified in Veterinary Homeopathy, Chiropractic and Acupuncture. Through her website, Holistic Horsekeeping, (http://www.holistichorsekeeping.com), she publishes a free monthly newsletter, offers the Healthy, Happy Horse resource group, e-books, holistic horsecare products and information for horse and mule owners.

Author: Dr. Madalyn Ward, DVM
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Also, is there such a thing as a pasture horse where they do not need riding but can just stay out in the fields in the day and ome back in at night and they would keep the other horse/s company?

You have dreamed of owning a horse for forever, but you do not live in a rural area. You cherish the thought of the smell of your horse as you brush its silky mane and the rich smell of leather while riding. The problem may be that you have no experience with training and maintaining a horse. If you are among the countless people who love horses yet are hesitant to own one not knowing where and how to care for them, try a look at horse training stables.

Horse training stables are like a workout club or resort for horses. They are designed to keep the horse in maximum comfort, health and condition. Some barns also offer lessons on their own lesson horses to teach you how to ride and care for a horse as well as board, training for your horse and lessons for you on your horse. Some barns are backed by government land as well. Imagine thousands of acres of back-country land lined with trails where you and your horse can spend time together. Some barns have hours of trails with breathtaking views, indoor riding arenas for inclement weather, and some even have bunkhouses for guests.

When and if you are able to purchase your own horse, a training stable not only provides for your horse’s creature comforts, they also train your horse to become a trusting and reliable mount and you to be a consistent and confident rider. From exercising to braiding your pony’s tail and from body clipping to photography sessions, training stables are the perfect place for your horse to stay for physical and mental conditioning while you learn the ins and outs of horse care and ownership.

In addition, training stables can offer other services like horse sales, locating the ideal horse, some assist in purchasing horses from other parts of the world; show training, hauling, and preparation; and in some cases, stud services, mare and foal care.

Aside from training you in basic horseback riding, some training stables also offer horse training certifications and licenses. Lessons offered can range from horse management to horse showmanship in various disciplines. Being under the careful eye of a successful trainer, they provide the ideal environment where horse and rider become partners.

When choosing a training stable for you and your horse, here are some things to look for:

1. Proven records of accomplishment in training horses and if you are going to show, accomplishments in the show pen. Look for a trainer that can turn a scared, rude or sour horse into one that has confidence, good discipline, and responsiveness. Try to see how the trainer works. Pick one that shows concentration, self control and patience with horses as well as riders.

2. Minimum number of horses in training. A smaller number of horses in a training barn means more time spent by head trainer with each horse rider. This enables each individual horse and rider to reach their full potentials in the equine world. Larger stables may look impressive; however, assistant handlers do most of the training.

3. Horse-friendly environment. The facilities are set up and run with the horses needs in mind. The horses needs and even wants can easily be attended to, such as bedding, turn out, open area, stalls and arenas maintained with horse safety in mind, wash and grooming areas, access to trails, etc.

4. Safety first. The trainer should stress the safety of the rider and the horse before, during, and after training and lessons. The focus should be on the horse as an athlete not a machine. Look for a trainer that allows plenty of time for warm ups and cool downs during training and lessons.

Once you find a barn you are happy with, take some lessons and be sure you and the trainer mesh. It does not matter how good the trainer is if you feel intimidated, ignored or angry during your lessons. There is the human element that needs to be considered, we don’t get along with all personalities. Once you find a team that works for you, jump in with an open and trainable mind, learn all you can and have fun.

Jodi Wilson is a recognized authority on the subject of horse training and has spent almost 30 years developing training techniques and solutions for horse owners no matter the discipline or breed.

Jodi is an Accredited Josh Lyons trainer, and is Certified in John Lyons training techniques. Her website, http://Jodi-Wilson.com, provides a wealth of information to improve the relationship between horse and rider. Jodi is also available for clinics and demonstrations as well as lessons, apprenticeships, and horse training.

Jodi has trained and competed in Reining, Sorting, Jumping, Dressage, English and Western Pleasure, Trail and Problem Solving.

Author: Jodi M Wilson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Canada duty

Everyone in our family is 5’10 or taller and relatively hefty. The lightest of us is 220 lbs. We’re interested in finally bringing a horse to our property but were worried we may be too ‘giant’. None of us have any riding experience but our daughter is experienced in horse behavior and care and we have a friend willing to work with us over proper riding techniques and we have a trainer lined up for any horse we bring on. We’re just wondering what breed of horses should we look for. Or if breed doesn’t matter, what height or ‘hands’ should we look for? Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

A geriatric or senior horse is typically one that is twenty years old or older. They often begin needing specialized care around this part of their life, because things simply begin to wear out. Just like humans, things start to not work as well as they once did. Their eyes, teeth, joints, liver, gut and kidneys all begin to lose their functionality. These are the areas of the older horse that you must begin to pay more attention to.

Older horses may have a hard time breathing; they may also have a hard time walking if they are becoming arthritic. Not being able to walk as well means that it is harder to walk to the pasture and back to the barn to get a drink and then back out to the pasture. If your gut is wearing out, it becomes harder to absorb all of the nutrients that your body requires. This is where owners need to step in and make life a little easier.

You will first want to have your vet check your horses liver and kidney function. They will do some blood work on your horse and check to see if there are any diseases or if they are malfunctioning. If there are any problems, your veterinarian will set you up with medication and a new diet for your horse. Your vet will then check your horses teeth. They will file down any sharp edges and look to see if they are missing any. You should have their teeth checked at least once a year.

From there you will want to move on to your horses digestive tract. As your horse gets older, he will have less efficiency in his digestive system and may require supplements to make up for any nutrients that he is not able to absorb properly. Generally, switching your horse to a senior diet will help him immensely as the nutrients are easier for the horse to digest. Senior feeds also have higher amounts of nutrients as well so that your horse has ample time to digest them. The key is finding one that your horse likes and then sticking with it. You will also want to evaluate the hay that your horse is eating. The best forage for your horse is grass as it is seventy percent water and hay is ninety percent dry matter. Most horse owners rely on hay for their horses forage, but you may need to get better and higher-quality hay for your senior horse. Hay cubes and beet pulp are excellent sources of fiber and may be soaked in water for senior horses with teeth problems.

The horse should be on a regular deworming schedule for his whole life. This will prevent any parasite problems in the long run. You will want to be sure that your program that you used while the horse was a youngster is still efficient for him as a senior.

Most senior horses will begin losing weight, as they are unable to chew as well. By adjusting their diet, you should be able to help them begin gaining weight. Senior horses are, however, prone to choke. Choke is an esophagus impaction due to not chewing their feed and hay all of the way. For these horses, you will want to find ways to make them eat slower. Placing rocks in their feed trough will help to slow them down. You also never want to feed pellets to a horse that has a history of choke without adding water to them. So, some horses may require senior horse soup. You dont want your horse to gain too much weight, as their bones are becoming more brittle and they cannot withstand the extra weight.

Colic is another common problem in senior horses. Many horses will colic due to being unable to chew their food all of the way or if they dont drink enough water. Some senior horses will not make the necessary trips to the water trough if they have to walk all the way across a large pasture. You may consider placing other sources of water in the pasture to aid your senior horse and insure that he doesnt colic due to dehydration.

Proper trimming is also an absolute must for the senior horse. Their bodies are getting old and you dont want them tripping over their long feet. You will also want to ensure that the younger horses in the pasture are allowing the senior horses to eat and drink. Many young horses will push them to the side at the feed trough or not allow them to stand under the shade tree. Vaccinations must also be followed on a regular basis to keep them from developing any other unnecessary stresses on their old bodies.

By following these simple guidelines, you will be able to have a happy senior horse that is still a little spry and ready for his occasional carrot.

Author: Ron Petracek
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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