Posts Tagged ‘herd animals’

When you’re into horse training, you have to find the best approach suitable to your horse. Some approaches work better than others and it all relies on the horse’s learning proportions. The learning pace of each horse varies; some learn faster than others and there are likewise people who are too stubborn to learn. Learning your horse’s personality is essential so that you are able to choose the best approach to use.

Novices are advised to seek the help of professional trainers if they have doubts as to their abilities as a horse trainer. In order to be an effective horse trainer, you should be inventive, a thinker, and most of all, use your sound judgment.

Horses are herd animals. If you try to observe a herd of horses, they ordinarily eat all during the day, groom, and sleep; challenge one another to gain position in the herd, and play. It is essential that you study the behavior of the herd so that you are able to incorporate the knowledge you’ve gained into the horse’s training program. Since each horse is unmatched, you will need to devise a training program worthy its ability or personality.

The majority of people feel like a stallion leads the herd but they’re wrong. In point of fact, a mare serves as the herd’s leader. It is the duty of the stallion to warn the herd when there is danger or when there is a threat of marauding stallions. The mare leader alternatively decides when it’s time to eat, the position where they are in a position to eat, and discipline other horses who’re at fault. The entire herd respects the mare and supports her decisions; the herd also trusts their lives to the mare. So you see, in the training program, you should act as the mare herd leader. You has to be in a position to win your horse’s respect, trust, and support.

In horse training, it’s not a great idea to use force. Although the horse will follow you, it’s not a reliable move. There isn’t one best’ training approach. As discussed previously, horses are unique animals and you must identify the most appropriate approach that suits the horse’s personality. Some of the famous horsemanship masters known presently are Pat Parelli, Dennis Reis, Buck Brannaman, Tom Dorrance, and Ray Hunt.

Good horse trainers do not just focus on one training technique; they strive to learn as many horse methods so that they are able to select the proper approach for each horse they train. If one of the famous horse training masters visits your area, why do not you check them out? It’s a venture that you shouldn’t miss.

It’s natural to make mistakes especially if you’re a beginner. If you make mistakes, do not be ashamed and instead, learn from it. Trainers handling troubled horses need a great amount of patience and determination if they wish to be victorious in the training program. This sort of horses is challenging to handle and if you are not cautious, you have access to hurt. If there are troubled horses, then you can likewise find horses that learn easily. Again, find the best approach that you can use in the training program.

Horse training definitely involves employing your sound judgment. Without it, you could be in difficulty. Even the truly great masters started out as novices. Learn all that you can about horse training. Handle the horses properly and earn their respect and trust. This ensures a smooth training program.

Find out more about the author in:
French Patio Doors
Home Office Computer Desks

Author: Bart R Montoya
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Unix inter-process communication (IPC)

Each horse is different in how it learns and how it reacts to outside stimuli. Certain methods of horse training may apply to some horses, but it does not mean that it will be effective to all breeds of horse.

To start horse training you must develop a communication system with the horse. This might take time. In the same way as children may not fully grasp the idea of things at an instant, baby horses in training may not get every pressure, pat or way of holding the reins at once.

When you apply a certain pressure, you expect a certain response. During horse training, you must make the horse understand that a certain pressure should elicit a corresponding response. We don’t expect full compliance in the beginning, but as time goes by, these actions will be part of the horse’s vocabulary.

Throughout the course of the horse training, one by one these actions will be added to his vocabulary. But these actions should still be broken down into minute details that the horse can take in one at a time. Learn how to pace with each individual horse. Training is something that should be done slowly and surely.

You must also learn how to “speak” to your horse in a way that it will be able to comprehend. This manner of speaking would mean fewer words and more body language.

Horses are herd animals. They learn well by imitating the leaders of the herd. You should be that “leader” your horse will follow. Patience is a key in training your horses.

You must also take into consideration that no one, animal or human, learns well when under stress. You should not force lessons into your horse during horse training. They don’t appreciate the yelling and whipping, especially if they do not know what all the harshness is for. Unlike humans who can speak their minds, horses resort to more physical responses. And you certainly wouldn’t want your horse to whirl, kick, strike and do out of hand movements.

You must create an environment wherein the horse can learn on its own, aside from the horse training that you give it. It is also important to see the difference between having been able to teach the horse something and it just accepting it. If a horse is relaxed when you do something, this does not necessarily mean that it is trained. This might just mean to it as another thing a human being normally does. Resistance at first is needed in order to see that the horse recognizes that something new is being taught to him.

The horse’s daily training routine should not be based on a set of particular things you want to teach to the horse. It should be based on how your horse reacts to your actions. Don’t teach something new to it without reviewing what it already knows.

Most importantly – don’t force your horse to go on horse training if it doesn’t feel well. A good routine does not only maintain the horse’s attention level, but also its comfort level.

Horses and Ponies Learn more at http://www.horseandponys.com

Author: Ray La Foy
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Low-volume PCB maker

Horse groundwork training is a vital part of getting your horse ready to ride. You should begin with three goals in mind. First, you want to become a leader for your horse. Horses naturally look to a leader as they are herd animals in the wild. For safety reasons, you want to assume that leadership role. Otherwise your horse is going to be making the decisions, like when to run away when he hears something scary on the trail. He’s also more likely to exhibit bad horse behavior if you haven’t established leadership. With leadership comes respect from the horse, and a horse that doesn’t respect you is more likely to rear, buck, and bite among other problems.

There are three simple horse groundwork training exercises you can do to establish leadership. The first that should be done is round pen work ala Monty Roberts “join up”. Take your horse to a round pen and take the lead rope off. Then send him out to your left at a canter. Have him go around about five times and then ask him to change direction and go around to the right. As he is going around apply pressure-swing your rope at the hip and maintain eye contact at the withers. At this point, start looking for signs of acceptance from the horse. This will be communicated to you with four basic gestures. An ear on you indicates respect-the horse is paying attention to what you have to say. Next comes licking of the lips or chewing. This is a sign of relaxation, which really means that the horse is not feeling any fear-or more to the point he trusts you. When you see these signs, take some of the pressure off-stop swinging your rope and back off a little bit. The horse may indicate increased trust by dropping his speed down and circling at smaller distances. The final sign to look for is the horse dropping his head. When a horse drops his head, this is a submissive act that says “you’re my leader” and “please let me join the herd”. When he does this, take eye contact off the horse, walk backwards away from him in a spiral pattern, and exhale. This will bring the horse to a stop. Now you can approach the horse and get him to hook on (follow you without a lead rope).

The second horse groundwork training activity to include in your routine is simple leading. Put a lead rope on your horse and just walk around. Look for signs of disrespect: crowding, edging past you as you walk, and taking two or three more steps when you’ve come to a stop. If your horse indicates one or more of these signs, spend a few minutes each day walking backwards away from your horse. This way you can only be in front of the horse as he’s being led, and he will see you as a leader in his mind. Occasionally ask for stops by stopping, raising both hands with palms out and exhaling. While you’re doing this, make sure the horse has both eyes on you. If they are not you he is not paying attention (disrespect), so bump the rope to bring his nose on you.

Once leadership, trust, and respect have been established, its time to turn your horse groundwork training toward preparing a horse to be ridden. The goal now is to set up a set of cues that will be given to control and direct the motion of the horse, and teach him these cues on the ground. The cues given use a pressure and release reward system. Pressure is the cue to move, release of the pressure is a reward to the horse that reinforces the desired response. The main areas we want to work with are: moving forward and backing up, moving the forehand over, moving the hindquarter over, and disengaging the hindquarter.

Let’s start with moving the forehand. To move the forehand, apply pressure between the jaw and withers in the neck area. When the horse takes a step away from you, release. Do the exercise on both sides. Then repeat with the hip area. Disengaging the hip is a process of applying pressure to the hip and having the horse circle his hip around while keeping his front legs in the same location. His hind legs should cross over one another. This is called “disengaging” because we are taking away the forward impulsion of the horse-when his hind legs are crossing he does not have the balance necessary to move forward.

Backing up applies pressure alternatively to the opposite sides of the face. Shaking the lead rope will do this, or you can apply pressure with your hands (in the air just by the nose). To ask the horse to move forward, you can do a driving exercise. Stand at the midsection to the left of the horse and put your riding or carrot stick over his back. Point forward with your left hand and tap the back of the horse with your tool. The tapping is “pressure” asking the horse to move forward. When he starts moving, you can release the pressure.

The final groundwork exercise you can use to prepare for riding is lunging. The focus of lunging used in this way is not to wear down the horse, but rather to build communication. To do this you will start the horse moving at a walk and ask him to stop periodically. When he is doing that well in both directions, then begin to include trotting. At first, have him start at a walk then ask for trotting, then work on having him drop down from a trot to a walk. Then stop again. Mix it up so your horse is never sure what you’re going to ask (keep him paying attention). When he is doing this well, begin including cantering in the exercise.

David McMahon is a freelance author. He invites you to visit http://horse-training-tips.com where you can learn more about horse groundwork training.

Author: David McMahon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: DIY Wind Power

Even more essential to horses than humans, a steady supply of good food and water is vital to horse health. Horses naturally spend most of their time chewing, swallowing, and digesting. As with most herd animals, the equine digestive system is meant to be constantly on the go and to process vast quantities of fibrous food that we would find utterly impossible. To give your horse the best chance at a happy, long life, I will outline the basics of food and water for your horse.

Food for Your Horse

There are understandable disagreements about the best food for a horse. After all, there are so many factors to consider, and each horse is unique within different environments. Individual horses have different nutritional requirements. Where and how the horse lives, the age of the horse, what kind of work the horse does, and the horse’s own physiology affects the optimal diet. In general, horses that are ridden hard in demanding disciplines, such as cattle work, need more calories than horses used for casual trail use. Therefore, the advice below will provide you with a solid understanding of the needs of most horses. Horse veterinarians will be your best source for your horse’s specific food requirements. He’ll have access to the horse’s records, and will be familiar with his nutritional needs. He will also be more aware of the types of locally available hay for your animal. What is plentiful in one part of the country may be far too expensive in another.

Hay is basically composed of plants that have been cut, dried, and baled. There are two types of hay, legumes and grasses. Alfalfa, rich in protein, calcium, and other nutrients, is the legume horses most commonly eat, though some vets believe it’s far too rich for horses, and should be left for cattle. The most common grass hays are timothy, orchard, and bermuda. Hay is a proper stable food for a horse. It provides roughage in addition to nutrition. Roughage is vital to keep the horse’s digestive system working properly and also satisfies the horse’s natural tendency to chew.

Hay cubes are concentrated blocks of hay. Hay cubes tend to be cheaper than hay and are good for older horses with worn-down teeth. This is because the cubes break apart easily when chewed. Cubes are less dusty, as well, so it’s easier on horses that may have respiratory problems. Cubes are also ideal for horses who have trouble maintaining a good weight. Nonetheless, most horses prefer baled hay to cubes because the normal hay gives them plenty on which to chew.

Pasture grass is the ideal staple food if there is enough volume and diversity of its content. Horses are happiest in pastures, and follow their instincts honed over thousands of years of browsing. You can verify that your pasture is of good quality by calling your local agricultural office. Ask an expert to inspect your pasture, and to help you analyze its nutritional content. Otherwise, supplementation of ordinary hay may be required. If it is less than optimal, measures can taken for fortify and improve a horse pasture. If you don’t have pasture land, and wish to create it, don’t begin without contacting a local agricultural agent for knowledge and help. Be forewarned; starting and maintaining a quality horse pasture can be a big undertaking.

Watering Your Horse

I can’t overemphasize the importance of providing plenty of clean, fresh water as part your horse’s daily care. Humans unwisely do without it daily, but a horse’s need for water is even more acute. The horse’s health and digestive ability heavily depends upon it. An automatic watering device that can be set up in the horse’s stall is best. A large bucket that you refill several times a day is an alternative, or a trough that holds enough water for a day or two at a time.

If you stable your horse where temperatures fall below freezing, you need to keep your horse’s water supply from turning to ice. Consider using a heating element made especially to work with horse watering devices or manually break the ice whenever it forms. Cold water doesn’t do horses any good. I recommend the heating element because it requires less work on your part and also keeps the water at a warmer temperature, encouraging your horse to drink.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

If you already own a Bunn, always use Bunn coffee filters to prevent overflow and to remove all chances of a bitter or papery taste in your coffee.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Duty tariff

A 20 meter circle at Training Level is the first dressage movement that you’ll do to make your dressage horse more athletic. The goal of riding a round 20 meter circle is to create flexibility.

Flexibility refers to your dressage horse’s ability to bend laterally through his side. Here’s what you should know about lateral bend:

1. The bend through your horse’s side should be equal from poll to tail.

2. Your goal is to help your horse become ambidextrous. In other words, he can bend as easily to the right as he does to the left.

3. As a dressage movement, correctly ridden circles teach baby engagement (the bending of the joints of the hind legs).

4. Circles also develop straightness. By definition, a straight horse is straight on lines and bent along the arc of a circle.

As a “Dressage Movement”, why is it so Important to Ride 20 meter Circles Accurately?

1. Physically, accurate circles help develop lateral flexibility and engagement of the inside hind leg.
2. Mentally, riding accurate circles develops obedience.

Always keep in mind that horses are herd animals. When you ride, you’re part of a two animal herd. Your horse is happy to be a follower if you’re a leader, but he’ll take over if you aren’t the leader.

If you don’t ride accurate circles, you’re letting your horse take over and make decisions. Once your horse learns to take over on a circle, eventually he’ll make more and more decisions on his own. Letting him make his own decisions can escalate into disobedience.

So, you always need to be the leader of the herd. It’s up to you to tell your horse where to go, how to go, and when to go there.

What Do You Need to Know to Ride an Accurate 20 meter Circle at Training Level?

To make an accurate 20 meter circle, do two things:

1. Bend your horse.
2. Ride to specific reference points.

If you’re circling to the left, the bending aids are as follows:

Weight your inside seat bone (left) to encourage your horse to engage his inside hind leg.
Place your inside leg (left) on the girth. It acts both as a pole for your horse to bend around and also to maintain the activity of his inside hind leg.
Put your outside leg (right) behind the girth to help bend your horse’s body around your inside leg and prevent his hindquarters from swinging out. For a 20-meter circle, place your outside leg 1-2 inches behind the girth.
Ask for flexion to the inside with your left rein. You should just see your horse’s left inside eye and nostril.
Keep your outside rein (right) steady and supporting. Think of it as a side rein that limits the degree of bend in his neck. It also functions as your turning rein to bring your horse’s shoulders around the curve.

Create a marriage between your inside and outside aids. You need both sets of aids to bend your horse while you turn him along a prescribed line. Your inside aids bend your horse, and your outside aids turn him.

What Are the Reference Points for a 20-meter Circle in a large arena ?

To make an accurate circle in a large arena at Training Level, you need four reference points.

Start your circle at A or C. This is your first reference point.
Your second reference point is 4 meters past the corner letter (this is 10 meters from the corner). The biggest mistake riders make when starting a circle, is that they aim for the corner letter. If you do this, you’ll end up with an oval. So aim for 4 meters beyond the corner letter.
Your third reference point is the spot where you cross the centerline. If you drew a line between M and H (or F and K), that line is 6 meters from the short side. The imaginary line between the next set of letters (R and S or P and V) is an additional 12 meters. When you add 6 meters and 12 meters, you get 18 meters. So in order to make a round 20-meter circle, cross the centerline 2 meters above the line that runs between R and S or P and V.
Your fourth reference point is on the other long side. Touch the long side 4 meters before the corner letter (10 meters from the corner).

Important: The key to learning how to ride a round 20 meter circle is to look TWO POINTS AHEAD and “connect the dots”.

Remember that all of the dressage movements are not an end in themselves. They’re a means to an end. And “the end” for a 20-meter circle at Training Level is developing flexibility in your dressage horse.

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Creditcard Currency Conversion Fee

Horses are deeply sensitive animals, therefore it is imperative that they have undivided care and attention. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Just like humans, they appreciate those little extras to make them feel content.

Horses are herd animals and will enjoy the company of other equines. You should be also seen as part of their herd, ideally as the herd leader. Your horse may give you signs – such as chewing or licking – that he sumbits to your leadership. Only quality time spent with your horse can ensure that the trust and emotional bond between you can develop. When you have created this important bond it will have an overall positive effect on the horse.

Always keep your horse’s stable or stall clean – horses are natuarlly clean animals – with warm deep bedding provided. A deep bed will ease the strain on their legs and joints, and of course, if they wish to lie down, they can in comfort, ensuring that they feel safe and secure.

Mealtimes are important to a horse. You must ensure that you feed them little and often, as they will also graze outside all day. All appropriate foods can be incorporated into your horse’s diet to provide a healthy balance. Grass, hay, and fibre in general is important for your horse’s digestive system. Grain is also superb, but not too much as it can upset the stomach. Ensure a supply of fresh water is available. Wate will help prevent the horse storing hard solid food in it’s gut by allowing fermentation to take place. Regularity of feeding times is important for horses, as they do best when in a routine. Always feed your horse at the same time each day.

Grooming your horse daily will show the horse that they are loved – they will enjoy extra attention from you which grooming brings. Your horse will love you to give him a nice rub, a good brushing and a scratch here and there. You should both enjoy this special part of the day. Grooming your horse will not only keep his coat glossy and smooth, but can also help to keep pests and parasites at bay. Not forgetting the feet – you’ll need to pick your horse’s hooves every daily. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

The happiness of your horse relies a great deal on the quality and quantity of exercise he is given. Daily exercise is essential for your horse. Exercise should be varied and should include some jumping and cross-country work, for example. Play time is important for horses too. Turn your horse out so he can run free for a while in the paddock. Your horse can then play, either alone or with other equines, and have some quiet time too. You need to ensure that your horse is given sufficient time to relax too – they can demonstrate erratic behaviour if simply put to task all the time.

There are many more tips and advice which can be imparted to ensure the physical and psychological well-being of your horse; here we have covered just five of the most important. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

Horses are incredibly sensitive and it is important that they get the care and attention they deserve. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Like humans, it is those little extras that they need to be truly at peace with their place in the world.

It’s best to keep your horse among other ponies or horses, as they are herd animals in nature and will need to have company. Your horse should see you, as his owner, as part of the herd, and preferably as herd leader. By chewing or licking the horse will show his affection as well as his submission to your leadership. To ensure the development of trust and an emotional bond between you, it is vital to spend quality time with your horse. When you have created this important bond it will have an overall positive effect on the horse.

Always keep your horse’s stable or stall clean – horses are natuarlly clean animals – with warm deep bedding provided. Providing deep bedding will help to protect your horse’s joints and legs as well as giving them a comfy and secure place to lie down.

Feeding is particularly important to horses. Be sure to feed little and often, as they will also be grazing throughout the day outside. It’s best to incorporate all appropriate foods, to keep a healthy balance. Horses need lots of fibre, so make sure that there is fresh hay or grass. Another great source of fibre is grain, although too much of this could cause stomach upsets. Make sure your horse has access to fresh water. Water allows the food to ferment so it doesn’t become solid and hard in the horse’s rear gut. Horses do better when in a routine, so the timing between feeds is important. Always feed them at the same time every day.

You should groom your horse every day – not only to keep him in excellent condition but also because he will enjoy the attention you give him and will feel loved and secure. Make sure you do lots of rubbing, scratching and brushing. This is a quality part of the day which you should both enjoy. It will also maintain their essential coat, keeping it free from any pests and making it glossy and smooth. Do not forget about your horse’s feet; hooves should be picked daily. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

Exercise is vital for a horse’s happiness. Horses need plenty of daily exercise. This should also be varied, include jumps and cross country as well as your standard routines. Your horse needs play time as well. Turn them out so they can be free in their paddock. Your horse can then play, either alone or with other equines, and have some quiet time too. You need to ensure that your horse is given sufficient time to relax too – they can demonstrate erratic behaviour if simply put to task all the time.

The above tips are just a few pieces of advice which can help you look after the physical and pscychological needs of your horse. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.