Posts Tagged ‘health’

How to Trailer Your Horse the Safe Way

From the minute your horse steps into a trailer to be transported, he’s completely dependent on you, the horse owner, for his well-being. As a reliable owner, this isn’t anything to be taken lightly. It’s important that you commit every effort to keep your horse secure and healthy while traveling.

When acquiring your trailer, ensure that it’s large enough for your horse. The average sized bumper pull trailer is normally 6 1/2 to 7 feet high. These trailers were intended for average size horses. Should you own a massive horse, consider a bigger trailer that could give your horse sufficient room.

Next, there are many things that you can do to ensure your existing trailer is safe. Check your floors underneath the trailer, especially when you have wood floors. Next, make sure there’s nothing on the interior of the trailer that may poke or scrape your horse. This is particularly important to check in older, steel trailers.

Once you have determined the trailer itself is safe, it’s time to focus on the health and well-being of your horse. If you’re going on a long journey, you might want to provide electrolytes ahead of the trip to help avert dehydration. This is above all essential if you know your horse is usually a nervous traveler. You should also consider wrapping your horse’s legs for a long journey. This puts a stop to scrapes, nicks and different leg injuries. Finally, never forget to tie your horse using a quick release snap or knot. Take a line from your horse stall us it. In the event your horse gets tangled or trapped somehow, these mechanisms will be much easier to release.

But, the safety doesn’t stop there. Make certain your horse and trailer are safe while on your way as well. Double check to make sure your trailer is secured properly to your truck and periodically check your mirrors for any sign of problems. Consistently checking out your horse at rest stops is also a good idea, but never take your horse outside of the trailer to let him eat the grass. Grass in these locations is often treated with chemicals that may quickly poison your horse or cause serious colic. At that point, you might be miles away from any veterinarian or other help. For lengthy trips, plan in advance for safe stops to take your horse outside like a vet, friend’s house or local fairgrounds.

Should you doubt the safety of your trailer or your capability to keep your horse safe while driving, it’s best to not go. If your trailer uses rubber pavers, make sure they are secure. Incidents involving horse trailers can be severe and you may hurt others including your horse. Create a checklist just before traveling to double check your safety measures and don’t forget – safety first.

Curtis Gardner is CEO of Triton Barns Systems online at http://www.tritonbarns.com. Triton Barns provides horse stalls, horse barns and horse barn accessories online to thousands of horse owner globally. Triton horse stalls are hot dipped galvanized and are covered with a 25 year warranty.

Author: Curtis Gardner
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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How to Buy a Horse

Want to know how to buy a horse? Finding the perfect horse is not an easy task. Every Equestrian have made some easy tips on how to buy a horse.

I have been there and done it. Making that first step to purchasing a horse can be a bit nail biting. I have listed a few suggestions that might help you out when getting ready to purchase a horse.

Things you should ask the owner:

- Confirm the information you see in the ad; age, height, color, breed etc
- The horse’s history and breeding
- Ask if the horse has show experience and if so how much experience (show results)?
- What is the medical history?
- How well the horse travels
- Any vices or bad habits (kicking, bucking, biting, spooking, and cribbing)
- Reason for sale
- Ask as many questions as possible to avoid wasted trips to view unsuitable horses.

Visit the horse at least twice:

On your first visit you should arrive a little earlier than scheduled to catch a glimpse of what the horse’s environment is like and what the horse’s behavior is like. You should come with your instructor or an experienced friend. Typically the owner or your instructor will test ride the horse first to see if it is safe and worth your time. After you have ridden and decided if you like the horse you should have a second visit. You should visit again and have another ride. Feel free to visit the horse as many times as you like. Remember, your the one who is buying! If all goes well and you like the horse the best advice is to “sleep on it”. Don’t just accept the horse and hand over the money. On the second visit, maybe try negotiating the price.

Final steps in purchasing:

- Tell the owner if you want to buy and negotiate on pricing. The most important first step in buying a horse is to getting a vet check. Having a vet check is a must, you never know what kind of problems you could be dealing with down the road. If the vet approves the horses overall health you can then proceed to taking your dream horse home.
- Find out what the horse has been fed. If you are going to change the horse’s diet you should change the diet slowly over a week or two.
- Insure the horse before you transport him.
- Prepare a safe area, either a stall or a paddock. Get any basic equipment for feeding, grooming, traveling and blankets for the winter.
- Find a way to transport your horse to your horse’s new home. If you don’t have a trailer you can hire someone to trailer your horse.
- Allow your horse to settle in peacefully, and be careful introducing it to new horses.

If you have any questions with the processing of buying a horse feel free to contact Every Equestrian on How To Buy A Horse.

Good luck and enjoy your new companion!
Dani Nelson

Author: Dani Nelson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Basic Rules For Horse Feeding

You have probably heard the saying that “you are what you eat” and the fact is that this doesn’t just apply to humans. The saying applies to all beings and that means horses as well. If you want to keep your horse in its best possible health and shape you must know what you can and can not feed it, when the right time for feed is and what the right amount of food would be. There are some rules to follow to make sure you meet the horse’s nutritional needs and they are simple. But even so they will need to be followed consistently to have the optimal effect.

First Rule:
Find out how much your horse weigh because this must be reflected in the amount of food it will need for a optimal nutritional balance. But do try to make your horse stand on your bathroom weight because it won’t work. An easy way to measure the weight of a horse is to measure the hearth girth with a horse tape. An alternative option will be to take it to a weight for live animals. Some of the larger farms have them for their cattle.

Second Rule:
Hay is a very important ingredient for your horse but you will know how much you will need to feed it. The best possible mix will consist of a high percentage of bulk and a low percentage of grain. An often used measurement is to feed your horse with 1.5 pounds of hay per 100 pounds of the horse’s body weight. Depending on how many times a day you feed your horse you will have to divide the grain into equal portions. It is extremely important that you do not give your horse to much grain. Make sure to weigh the horse flakes as they can vary much in weight.

Third Rule:
Next step is to determine your horse’s need for grain and for the most part young and growing horses will need it in their diets. Horses that work heavily will also need grain to keep up the ability to work hard. When feeding grain you need to weigh it because every type of grain weighs differently. Corn as an example is much lighter than bran and if you in doubt then ask your veterinarian.

Fourth Rule:
Overfeeding your horse will need to more pain than pleasure for both of you and even though it is said that the way to a horses heart is through food the results of overeating can be founder and colic. Remember to have any additional food locked away because as horse that starts eating grain will not stop until is has finished or becomes sick.

Fifth Rule:
On the other hand underfeeding a horse can be just a much dangerous as overfeeding because it will leave your horse vulnerable to illnesses. A horse that lacks energy and has a weak immune system might be suffering from lack of food so pay attention.

Sixth Rule:
Fresh water is just as important to a horse as it is to humans. Without good clean water in fair amounts it is hard for anyone to maintain a good health. Colic is one of the many things that can be caused by the lack of water. If you live in an area of the world where winters are very cold you need to remember to give your horse easy access to sufficient water.

If you follow these six basic rules you will be able to have a healthy and powerful horse for many years to come.

If you want to know more about feeding your horse you must come visit us at HorseTrailerUniverse where you will find everything from horse trailer insurance over used horse trailers to horse nutrition.

Author: Hank Westwood
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Buying A Horse – On The Day Of Viewing

Buying a horse is buyer beware. Not to make you frightened, but it is your responsibility to make sure the horse you choose is what you expected you were getting. Check all claims made about an animal out for yourself.

To start with, take someone you know who knows horses. If you don’t know anyone who will volunteer their time, consider paying a trainer or riding instructor for their time as it will be money well spent. There is so much to take in when viewing a prospective horse that many eyes alone will give a more accurate picture. Different people will ‘see’ different things. A beginner may see an affectionate good looking animal. An experienced horse person may observe an arthritic joint and a tendency towards pushiness.

Also on a general note, take lots of pictures. Consider making notes. If you have particular questions in mind, write them down beforehand and note the answers when you ask. This way you’ll cover everything and remember a lot.

Health. Although the domain of health is for the experts, look for a general impression of wellness. In a well lit place, is the coat shiny and smooth to the touch? Are ribs showing? Does he have a pot belly? Are the hooves broken, cracked or poorly cared for? Is the horse alert or half asleep? Are the eyes bright and clear? The ears scanning for sounds?

Temperament. How is this horse around other horses? Watching him being walked past other horses as he is brought in from the pasture or out from the stable will give you and idea of how he relates to other horses. Does he kick or bite? This might be forgivable when directed at other horses, but not at humans. Do not buy a horse with bad manners.

Training. Ask for and watch the horse being caught, led, tied and groomed, including having all hooves picked out. Have a demonstration of the horse being put on a trailer. Watch the horse being saddled and mounted. In short, ask to see everything demonstrated that you’d do with this horse yourself. How does he behave?

Riding. Let the owner ride first and put the horse through all it’s paces and special skills. How smooth are the horse’s responses? Are there any signs of resistance or fighting? Head tossing, leaning on the bit, laziness, tugging?

Your Turn. Ask your knowledgeable friend to try the horse out and then you have a go too. Watch for how the horse reacts to you. Go back to the basics and try all the everyday stuff as well. Leading, grooming, hoof handling, saddling up.

Paperwork. If this horse is a registered breed, ask to see the papers.

If the horse does not behave, that’s kicking, biting, rearing, bucking, bolting etc then don’t buy it. Did you hear that? No matter how stunning you think this horse may be! Don’t buy it. Yes you want to feel a strong commitment to your animal AND you also want a well-behaved animal, especially if this is your first horse. Don’t settle on a gorgeous looking bucker. It’s not worth it, and the well behaved ones come in ‘stunning’ too.

It can be worth making a second visit. Ask the questions you forgot the first time. Repeat the same questions from the first time. Do the answers match? Is the horse behaving in the same manner?

Phil Tragear
http://www.HorseTrainingSuccess.com
All the questions you’ve asked, answered.

About the Author
Phil is author of the comprehensive book ‘Horse Training Success’, full of answers to the most asked horse training questions. Stop by http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com for a huge selection of information regarding common problems, training of horses, equine psychology, how to get the best behavior and so much more!

Please feel free to use this article on condition that you maintain a live link to the http://www.horsetrainingsuccess.com website, acknowledge that the content is Phil Tragear 2006, and keep this paragraph included!

Author: Phil Tragear
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Is their a horse rescue in MI? How much are these horse and how often is a foal or colt availible?

In two years after i’m establish in my career I’m going to get a horse. I’m starting now learning about how to care for them. I’ve taken riding lessons and was very good at it. Also, i’m interested in breeds and their temperments,health, and what is the best horse for a beginner?

Healthy Horses – A Few Tips

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

  • It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
  • It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
  • It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

Prevention is much better (and less expensive) than cure. Horses should be wormed periodically, to a schedule. They should receive the required inoculations and they should have a yearly dental check. As intestinal parasites vary from region to region, the type and frequency of worming will also vary accordingly. Likewise, a horse which is always on the same pasture with the same horses may not need the same level of inoculations as a horse which travels a lot, including competitions. In areas with high levels of Lyme disease, anti-tick medication may be advisable. Consequently, one needs to discuss with a local veterinarian the local requirements, taking into account how the horse is used, to determine the most appropriate actions.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

Don’t make it hard…Cleaning the Horse Trailer

An expensive horse deserves to be in a healthy environment…always…even in transport.Health of your horse depends not on pounds of weight but overall resistance to disease.Even when the owner keeps an animal up to date on vaccinations and preventitive medicine, when in transportation, horses are subject to acauiring an infection or a disease. 

Cleaning a horse trailer after transportation to and from horse shows, rodeos, or training events can pose interesting problems for the horse owner.  Even when a horse is healthy, the interior of the trailer should be as clean and disinfected as possible to prevent diseases and pathogens from being transported from an arena stall back to the farm.Even when carefully cleaned and disinfected, urine and feces collect and build up in the closed environment of a trailer.You can make a difference.  Just as one would keep the truck clean and odorless, they keep the horse trailer free from odors, free from urine/fecal buildup, by choosing a safe, reliable product that deodorizes and disinfects simply and easily after every trailer use.  Nok-Out, (http://www.nokout.com)  is such a product.Nok-Out is a true deodorizer that is safe to use on any hard or porous surface. It is EPA Registered to destroy pathogens of importance, but it totally harmless to you and your pets. Nok-Ou is biodegradable.  Nok-Out is a safe, non-toxic product, EPA Registered to destroy odors, and disinfect on contact when it is sprayed on the source of the contamination.  Nok-Out is fragrance free, non-cationic (doesn’t react to other metals, plastics or hard surfaces).Nok-Out is a true deodorizer that is safe to use on any hard or porous surface. It is EPA Registered to destroy pathogens of importance, but it totally harmless to you and your pets. Nok-Ou is biodegradable.Application of Nok-Out is very easy.Spray and walk away? Nahyyy. Really? That easy!Scientific data, replicated and proven demonstrates that bacteria, mold, mildew and viruses are eliminated when applied as directed.  The result?  A clean trailer.Healthy horses.  Safer transportation…immediately.

The Solution to Issues of Odor and Health When Transporting your Horses.

Your horses have excellent health.  They are fully protected by regular vaccinations, and preventitive injections.  You feed them with the best products available.  At over 1000 pounds each, one might think that your horse can fend off bacteria, viruses mold and fungus infestation.   And generally, this is a truism of good animal health.  But, during transportation, a very important issue for maintaining the good health of your expensive animal is the cleanliness of the Horse Trailer.  During transport, a build up of urine and feces, along with poor air circulation in the trailer, provides a perfect source for bacteria and viruses to grow and expand.  Below are some thoughts regarding this issue.

Cleaning a horse trailer after transportation to and from horse shows, rodeos, or training events can pose interesting problems for the horse owner.  Even when a horse is healthy, the interior of the trailer should be as clean and disinfected as possible to prevent diseases and pathogens from being transported from an arena stall back to the farm.  When not carefully cleaned and treated/disinfected, odors and pathogens of significance collect and build up in the closed environment of a trailer, even on short trips.  Smart horse owners recognize that intense urine odor is uncomfortable for their animals, and, over time can affect the health and well being of their expensive horses. Just as one would keep their truck clean and odor-free, a person will also keep the horse trailer free of odors, free from urine/fecal buildup, by choosing a safe, reliable product that deodorizes and disinfects simply and easily after every trailer use.  Nok-Out, is such a product. It will do this job, and has no lethal side effects as do many chemical cleaners. Nok-Out is a safe, non-toxic product, EPA Registered to destroy odors, and disinfect on contact.  Nok-Out is fragrance free, non-cationic (doesn’t react to other metals, plastics or hard surfaces).  It poses no harm when sprayed around humans and animals.  Nok-Out is easy to apply.  Simply Spray and walk away.  Bacteria, mold, mildew, viruses are eliminated when applied as directed. The result is  good news for the horse and owner;  a clean trailer and healthy horses.  This is what you will have when you apply Nok-Out; immediate, safe transportation for animals.  Your horses will thank you too.  Find Nok-Out online at http://www.nokout.com

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