Posts Tagged ‘happy horse’

A good sound knowledge in horse feeding is important for any horse owner. Even if your horse is stabled and fed by the staff at a yard, you ought to have a basic understanding of horse nutrition. A healthy horse fed a proper diet is a horse that will have the balanced energy to suit you.

If your horse is lacking in energy he may seem lazy to you, but have you looked at his diet? Are you feeding him enough of the right food? A diet consisting mainly of hay or grass is good for a horse living out in a pasture. Of course if that same horse is exercised on a regular basis that hay should be of high quality, good protein, and no doubt he would be having a grain too.

Besides low energy, a horse on an incorrect diet would lose weight, or gain too much weight. Both can lead to health concerns and problems, which usually would result in a veterinary visit and fee.

Feeding a horse more than hay obviously costs more, but you truly save on money in the long run. Horses that are worked need more than hay to replenish lost calories, to maintain his health and to repair the body. No different than humans who are not simply couch potatoes.

Pleasure horses that are ridden infrequently still benefit from grain. You can purchase grain or pellets that are best suited to your horses needs. Today feed bags have several labels which tell you the type of food and ingredients. Foods have been specifically developed for broodmares, senior and junior horses just to mention a few.

Knowledgeable staff at a yard and your veterinarian can further assist you in choosing the correct diet. You want a content, happy horse, but perhaps not a highly strung, spirited race horse between your legs…

Depending on your horse’s lifestyle, whether a competition horse, a companion horse or a pleasure horse there is a diet to match. Diets help you get the best performance from your horse. Supplements may or may not be necessary, if you are competing in a showing class on a regular basis, your horse may very well benefit from a supplement that adds benefits to his coat.

Feeding truly makes a difference to horses from birth up. You want a good healthy happy horse, read up on horse nutrition and find the correct diet.

Horses. Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about Feeding Your Horse. Learn about your horses anatomy.

Author: Benjamin Wise
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Spending time with your horse not only enables a close bond to develop between you both, but it also enables you to learn how your horse responds to situations and how they are in themselves. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A happy horse will generally appear calm and be responsive to you. He will keep a low head, relaxed jaw and have soft eyes. A happy horse will seek affection from you and show respect by not invading your personal space. When a horse yawns this is not a sign of being bored, but a sign that he is calm and relaxed. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. When a horse is anxious, you must let him settle in his own time without trying to force the issue – otherwise he could end up feeling trapped and even more stressed.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. You should perform regular inspections of your horse’s teeth, eyes, hooves and shoes as well as keeping an eye on his droppings. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. It is also important that your vet has regular worming and vaccination appointments set with you. If you rotate medications you stand a better chance of killing off as many different types of worms and parasites as possible and also giving less time for them to build immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. It is important that your horse is vaccinated against rhinoneumonitis, influenza and encephalitis. Tetanus and rabies are also advisable, but not essential. If you are a regular with the horse trailers at horse shows etc, your horse may need to show a negative Coggins test, which is for a serious equine virus called equine infectious anaemia (EIA) for which there is no cure or treatment.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. It is important for your horse’s comfort, mood and performance that you do not allow his feet to get too long and unbalanced. Your horse will need his hooves trimmed by a farrier at least every eight weeks; sometimes more often is necessary.

Your horse will need a blanket or coat during the wet and cold winter months and during the summer, a fly protective horse sheet or mask is advisable. If your horse is prone to lathering during or after exercise then it may be best to use a horse cooler until he has calmed down. Drinking water directly after exercise could put a horse’s body into shock. When you have been exercising your horse, allow him to cool down sufficiently before a meal. After eating you should give your horse at least an hour before exercise.

Horses need to have a purpose, whether it is riding, showing, therapy, carriages or dray. Horses love to be needed. It is important for a horse’s sense of purpose and focus that he receives regular praise – especially when young – for performing simple tasks such as simply standing still or in the right place. As horses are naturally inquisitive animals, they will become more brave, positive and confident the more new experiences you introduce to them.

A horse is a beautiful and magnificent creature that deserves a good home for life with excellent care. As a horse owner you have a responsibility to provide the best healthcare possible for your equine companion.

Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. Providing the very best for your horse will reap you the rewards of love, loyalty and devotion from your equine companion.

Compare or buy AFI Horse Insurance online – Professional Horse and Rider equine insurance specialist. We take your horses insurance seriously

Author: Stephanie Andrew
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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One of the joys of happy horse relationships is offering your four-hoofed friend a tasty morsel. However, there is as much difference of opinion about whether or not one should feed horses treats as any other aspect of horse training. If you would like to share cookies, carrots, and other equine delicacies with your horse, here are a few basic rules and concepts to consider.

Treats Are Not Rewards

Unless you are teaching your horse to do tricks, and small bits of feed are used as reinforcement for teaching specific cues, horse cookies are best used only on special occasions. The main objection lodged against feeding horses carrots and apples is that it teaches horses to bite and may cause horses to get pushy as they search for another cookie.

Don’t Associate Treats With Work

Horses work to earn their living, just like the rest of us. If your boss started giving you a bonus every time you showed up to work you would get pretty upset the next time you clocked in and there was no bonus. Horses are no different. A treat is just that, something special. Bring your horse’s favorite snack out when they are thinking of nothing other than you. Not getting tacked up, not getting a bath, not getting into the trailer… but when there’s nothing on their little equine mind but you. You are presenting your horse with a gift, not a paycheck.

Safety First

Offer treats with your hand open, fingers together, and palm up. Provide a little support as you let the horse’s lips take the treat from you. Sure, some folks have their horse take a carrot from between their own teeth – that’s a trick. Some people can also do a full reining pattern bareback and bridleless. If your experience doesn’t measure up to the experts, choose the safer road.

Be aware of your horse’s expression and body language. If you even get a whiff of pushiness or impatience, walk away. You always get more of what you reward. If your horse begins to demand that cookie, and you give it to him, you have just taught him to be more demanding the next time. Treats are a gift, not dinner.

Unless your horse is soft and obedient, no treat.

Three’s A Crowd When There Are Treats

If there are other horses around at cookie time, be careful to note their reactions in addition to those of your horse. Feeding cookies to more than one horse at a time requires you to stay in control of where all the hooves are. If you don’t have the leadership established to direct who gets the first cookie, etc, then don’t take a chance. Horses can get rough with each other and with you if there’s a cookie to be had.

Best Horse Treats

Horses are not all born knowing that carrots and apples make good treats. There are many commercially prepared treats available. Some horses like peppermints, some prefer gingersnaps. Many horse cookies have nutritional supplements in them. How many and how often you feed treats, as well as how big your cookie budget is, will determine what will be on your horse’s cookie menu. The best horse treat is the one your horse likes most. You won’t have any trouble figuring out which treats your horse prefers.

Carrots as Hydration

There are good reasons to use carrots as a source of hydration rather than as a treat. When trailering long distances or for horses who don’t drink well tied to a trailer, you can use carrots as a way to supplement your horse’s water intake.

The easiest way to teach young horses to eat carrots and apples is by feeding them to their mother before they’re weaned. If Mama loves carrots, Baby will learn to as well. For older horses, break carrots into one-inch pieces and mix in their grain or pellets during their regular feeding time. Start with just a few pieces at a time. Most horses will eventually learn to eat carrots, and then you can feed larger pieces when you are concerned about maintaining hydration.

Treats Are Special Gifts

Whenever you’re confused about whether or not to feed your horse treats, just think about what is appropriate for children. We don’t give special presents to a kid having a tantrum. We don’t reward a child who is sulky or stubborn. Horse treats are special gifts, that’s why they are called ‘treats.’

Just use your common sense – make that ‘horse’ sense, and both you and your horse will enjoy sharing treats.

Whether the topic is personal success or training stallions, Lynn Baber brings years of experience to readers and audiences. Highly credentialed in issues of leadership, relationship, and most things equine, Lynn has a unique perspective not found elsewhere. Read excerpts from Lynn’s latest book, “AMAZING GRAYS-AMAZING GRACE: Pursuing relationship with God, horses, and one another” at http://www.AmazingGrays.us. It may also be found on Amazon.com. Lynn is a retired equine professional and is a director of Amazing Grays Ministry.

Author: Lynn Baber
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Grooming your horse is an essential part of good horse care. Your horse will enjoy a good groom, and you will be able to see if there are any new marks, cuts or rubs on your horse. It is important to give your horse a good groom before you ride as to ensure that there is no dirt around his saddle and bridle areas as well as having clean legs if you are putting boots or bandages on. Having a well groomed horse makes you look very professional at shows and proves to everyone you have pride in your horse!

Your grooming Kit should contain:

1. Rubber Curry Comb
2. Body Brush
3. Metal Curry Comb
4. Dandy Brush
5. Hoof Pick
6. Hoof Oil and Brush
7. Mane and Tail Comb and Brush
8. Shampoo, Bucket and Sponge
9. Sweat Scraper

Each of the above brushes have a specific use and each one should be used accordingly.

1. Rubber Curry Comb – Use this on his body and neck in round circles. This will loosen all the dead hair and skin in his coat and get rid of tough mud if he has rolled in the field. Do not use this brush on his bones (face, spine or Legs) it will hurt him. This brush also acts as a massage for your horse. It will relax him which makes him feel good. It will also encourage his skin to produce natural oils which will make his coat look fabulous.

Tip: Groom your horse every day and you will not only have a happy horse but the best looking coat ever!!!

2. Body Brush – Use this brush his face, neck, body and upper legs in long strokes going with the direction of the hair. This will remove all the dead skin and hair that you have loosened with your curry comb.

Tip: flick your wrist at the end of your stroke – this will removes more dirt and hair!

Tip: If your horse is really muddy – just hose or sponge him off. You may have to dry his saddle area before riding but this could save you lots of riding time!!!

3. Metal Curry Comb – This is NOT made for use on your horse ever! This is to clean your body and dandy brushes while grooming. To clean your brushes while grooming simply run your body brush across the metal curry comb and watch the dirt and hair fly!!!

Tip: Keep your Metal Curry dry and clean – this will stop it from rusting and it will be more effective for cleaning your brushes. (You can wash in water but dry immediatley after)

Tip: Hold your Metal Curry Comb in your left hand while using your body brush in your right hand and scrap your body brush every third stroke or so – aim at getting quicker – but be careful not to loose QUALITY in
brushing!

4. Dandy Brush – This brush is a hard bristle brush and should not be used on anything other than legs. Use it gently because it can hurt but you can be a little more vigorous with this brush especially if your
horse has had a mud bath!

5. Hoof Pick – Your Hoof pick is used to clean your horses hooves, which is one of the most important things you can do and should be done at least once a day whether you ride or not. To use your hoof pick, pick
up your horses leg and locate the frog. Run the hoof pick from heel to toe along side the frog. Be careful not to puncture the frog. Dirt can seriously stuck on your horses hoof so do be careful of yourself and your
horses foot.

Tip: If your horse is kept in a stable then hoof picking should occur at least twice a day.

Tip: If your horse’s foot is smelly or is ‘chalky’ this could be due to wet ground. If the hoof is smelly it could be thrush, and if the hoof if chalky it could be seedy toe. Some iodine spray from the local
horse/produce store can help. If your horse is visibly sore then you will need to call your vet or farrier.

6. Hoof Oil and a Brush – Hoof oil does not have to be used every day, unless your farrier has specified. It protects the hooves from becoming dry and brittle. it provides moisture which some horses need more than others. Apply with a small paint brush. Hoof Oil is different from Hoof Black. Hoof Black is used at shows to blacken horses hooves – this dries the hoof out and should not be used often. It would be a good
idea to use hoof oil after using hoof black to replenish moisture in the hoof.

7. Mane and Tail Comb and Brush – The mane and tail comb is used to pull your horse’s mane and top of his tail. This keeps his mane and tail tidy.

To pull your horses mane correctly is hard and takes practice but is much better than shortening your horse’s mane with a pair of scissors! When you use your pulling comb – brush through the hair, Hold the longer bits between your fingers and push the rest up as if you were teasing his mane. Next wrap the longest hair around the comb and while still holding the comb and the hair pull down sharp and quickly pulling the hair out. Only grab a small amount of hair when pulling, this wont hurt your horse.

The brush (usually just a hair brush) is used just to run through the mane and de-tangle your horses tail. When you brush his tail, grab little sections at a time and start from the bottom and work your way
up to his tail bone. Be careful as some horses do not like their tails brushed let alone the top pulled!

Tip: If your horse is getting annoyed then leave it for the next day. Don’t leave pulling a very long mane until the day before a competition, if you do need to stop you will only have half a mane pulled!

Tip: When brushing his your Horses’ tail, spray some show shine in his tail. This helps de-tangle his tail with very little breakage of the hair. All horses have different kinds of tails, so work with what you
have and keep your horses tail healthy and shiny!

8. Shampoo, Bucket and Sponge – Obviously these are used when you want to wash your Horse. To wash your horse, soak him with a hose from head to tail. Make sure you wet his mane and tail but be careful of his ears. Have soapy water in your bucket ready to go with your sponge and body brush in the water. Scrub his body with the body brush and use the sponge on his face being careful of his ears! Wash his tail (if he lets you). Ensure all the dirt or mud is off and then hose all the shampoo off your horse. Make sure that there is no soap left on him! This will make his skin itch.

Tip: Try not to wash him too often as this will wash away all the natural oils that are protecting your horses skin. Your horses coat will loose its shine if you wash him to often and he may also get dandruff or itchy skin!

Tip: A good groom will always be better than constant washing with shampoo.

9. Sweat Scraper – The Sweat Scraper is used after you have washed your horse. Scrap down his body to get all the excess water off. This will help him get dry quicker. Only use this tool on his body, not his legs
or head!

Extra things that you can have in your horses grooming kit are:
1. Moisturizer
2. Show Shine (for his tail)
3. Iodine / Antiseptic cream.

This is not an extensive list. You should also have a first aid kit at your horses stable or in your car if he is in a field. I will go through What a first aid kit should have in a later article.

If you intend to Show your horse you will need many more items. This is just a basic kit to keep your horse happy in the field!

If your horse is lame or has any serious cuts or injuries, please call a professional to help you. Once you are more experienced you will learn to tell when you need the vet or farrier.

Author: Christine Turley
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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So many riders are confused about how to warm-up their dressage horses so they can have a productive schooling session. So here are 9 tips to help you with your warm-ups.

As a rider and trainer, your goal in the warm-up is to take the restrictions away from your dressage horse’s body. So depending on the day, your warm-up could be as short as 10 minutes, or it could end up making up your entire ride.

1. Since your horse has probably been standing in the stall, spend the first 5-10 minutes walking around on a loose rein.

2. After walking around “on the buckle” for several minutes, pick up a contact so you can begin your warm-up.

3. Focus on the first three ingredients in the Training Scale-Rhythm, Suppleness, and Connection. I always start my work on those first three ingredients on a large circle. Then if all goes well, I’ll go large around the arena.

4. Rhythm: As you walk, trot, and canter around, check that the rhythm is always regular and the tempo is neither too fast nor too slow.

5. Suppleness: Spend as little or as much time as you need, suppling and relaxing your horse both mentally and physically. Work done in tension is a waste of time. When you supple your horse, you’ll relax him physically. Once he’s physically relaxed, he’ll relax mentally.

In a nutshell, to supple your horse, bend his neck 7 inches to the inside of a neutral position (neutral is when his nose is in line with the crease in the middle of his chest) while you close your leg on the same side.

Do a set of ” three supples” which means you’ll bend and straighten him three times quickly but smoothly. Then do nothing for 7 or 8 strides. Then do another set of “three supples”.

(This “suppling” technique is described in detail in Cross-Train Your Horse, Train with Jane Volume 1, and A Happy Horse Home Study Course.)

6. Connection: Use the “Connecting Half Halt” to put your horse on the bit. The “Connecting Half Halt” is the version of the basic Half Halt (a momentary closure of seat, legs, and hands) that puts your horse on the bit.

Close your legs steadily for 3 seconds as if asking for a lengthening, close your outside hand in a fist to capture and recycle the energy back to the hind legs, and keep the neck straight by giving 3-4 little squeezes or vibrations on the inside rein. The connecting half halt lasts approximately three seconds. During those three seconds, you “Add, add, add” hind legs through your closed outside hand while maintaining flexion at the poll to the inside.

In warm-up, I connect my horse and ride him either long and low, or if he tends to be heavy on the forehand, I ride in a “horizontal balance” with his topline is parallel to the ground.

7. When things fall apart, always go back to the beginning of the training scale. First, reestablish regular rhythm. Then, supple your horse. Finally, ask for connection.

8. While focusing on rhythm, suppleness and connection, it’s appropriate to ask the training level horse to do school figures like circles, serpentines, and shallow loops.

The first and second level horse also can do school figures as well as leg-yields, and rubber band exercises like gentle lengthenings, and then coming back to the working gait.

9. Many riders do a lot of transitions from gait to gait with their dressage horses in the warm-up. Personally, I think your horse needs to be warmed up sufficiently first before you can expect him to do good transitions. So, I save schooling the transitions until the second phase of my work after the warm-up is complete.

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Spending quality time with your horse is important in allowing a natural bond to develop, as well as allowing you to learn your horses responses and reactions to different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A horse that is calm and responsive is generally happy. They will keep their head lowered, and have soft eyes and a relaxed jaw. By not invading your personal space your horse is showing affection by seeking your love and respect; this is a sign of a happy horse. A horse is not showing he is bored by yawning – rather this is a sign of relaxation and calm. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. Allow the horse time to settle himself slowly in order to avoid the onset of “flight” mode and further stress.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. Pay close attention to your horse’s eyes, teeth, shoes and hooves and inspect his droppings regularly. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. Ensure you have made appointments with your equine vet for the administration of vaccinations and worming treatments. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. Vaccinations for encephalitis, rhinoneumonitis and influenza are essential for a healthy horse. Tetanus and rabies are also advisable, but not essential. A negative Coggins test for equine infectious anaemia (EIA) may need to be shown if you regularly use hired trailers for horse events – this is a serious incurable equine virus.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. When your horse’s feet are allowed to get long and unbalanced, it is inevitably uncomfortable and will in time affect the horse’s mood and performance. Your farrier will need to trim your horse’s hooves every six weeks or so.

During wet and cold weather you should provide a blanket or coat for your horse, and in the summer he will need a fly-protective sheet. You may wish to use a horse cooler rug after exercise to help your horse calm and cool down. Drinking water directly after exercise could put a horse’s body into shock. Normal body temperature needs to be regained after exercise and before feeding your horse. Leave it for an hour after meals before exercising your horse.

Horses need to have a purpose, whether it is riding, showing, therapy, carriages or dray. They love to feel useful. It is important for a horse’s sense of purpose and focus that he receives regular praise – especially when young – for performing simple tasks such as simply standing still or in the right place. Introducing new experiences to your horse will help his confidence and satisfy his inherent curiosity.

A horse will be at its happiest when given the very best in love and care that it is possible to give. Before even purchasing a horse you need to be aware of the responsibility you have as a horse owner to provide the best in health care and welfare. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. The rewards to you for providing the very best for your horse are priceless, as they will give love back to you a thousand times over.

Spending quality time with your horse is important in allowing a natural bond to develop, as well as allowing you to learn your horses responses and reactions to different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A happy horse will generally appear calm and be responsive to you. He will keep a low head, relaxed jaw and have soft eyes. Your horse will both show and seek affection and will not invade your personal space – these are signs of a happy horse. Surprisingly, yawning is a sign not of boredom but of relaxation and calm. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. Allow the horse time to settle himself slowly in order to avoid the onset of “flight” mode and further stress.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. It is advisable to check your horse’s teeth, eyes, hooves, shoes and droppings frequently. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. It is also important that your vet has regular worming and vaccination appointments set with you. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. Horses should always be vaccinated for encephalitis, influenza and rhinoneumonitis. Also advisable while not necessarily essential would be vaccinations against tetanus and rabies. Regular users of trailers at show and equestrian events may need to show a negative Coggins test for presence of the incurable virus EIA or equine infectious anaemia.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. A horse’s mood and performance will be adversely affected if his hooves are allowed to get too long as this will cause discomfort and imbalance. The farrier should trim hooves every six to eight weeks or more often if needed.

During wet and cold weather you should provide a blanket or coat for your horse, and in the summer he will need a fly-protective sheet. You may wish to use a horse cooler rug after exercise to help your horse calm and cool down. While it may seem logical to give your horse a drink after exercise, this could in fact put his body into shock. Normal body temperature needs to be regained after exercise and before feeding your horse. Do not exercise your horse for at least an hour after he has finished eating.

Horses are happiest when they know that they have a purpose – this could be showing, jumping or therapy, for example. Horses glory in feeling worthwhile. It is important that your horse has a focus, especially when young and not broken in; a simple praise when they stand still or in the correct place makes them feel that everything is ok. Introducing new experiences to your horse will help his confidence and satisfy his inherent curiosity.

Horses are wonderful creatures that deserve all the love and care you can give. You have a responsibility as a horse owner to provide the very best in care and welfare. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. A horse will show you vast amounts of love in return for the simple effort of attention and care for his well-being.