Posts Tagged ‘ground manners’

I just bought my first horse, and she is being broke right now to ride and has already been ridden and is great with ground manners. I am a full time worker and was wondering how some of you fit time for your horse if you work an 8-5, and if it’s bad if you only see your horse 2-3 times a week? Like many full time white collar workers I get the weekends off, and would be close to my horse so I may only be able to spend 1 or 2 horse twice a week during my work week, but all day on the 2 days I have off. Any suggestions? I just want my horse to feel loved and not hate me or forget her training because I’m not seeing her every single day. All suggestions and advice are greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Training a horse for good ground manners starts as soon as you enter the stall or field. When you effectively use your vocal and body cues, you are speaking their language. Ineffectively using your cues when trying to catch your horse in the field can cause your horse to run from you. Believe me, it’s not easy to catch a horse that doesn’t want to be caught. They seem to run in circles around you, teasing you. Ineffective use of your cues would include either sneaking up on your horse from behind, or walking directly at their head.

To effectively communicate with your horse, approach them from the side. Make your presence known; talk to, whistle, or cluck to your horse. Walk towards them with your hand outstretched. This gives a horse that is unfamiliar with you the reassurance that they can be comfortable with you. This is how you should approach every horse in the field, no matter how familiar you are with them. If you disregard these methods, you can startle your horse and cause it to run, potentially teaching a very bad habit.

For a green horse or a horse that has formed the habit of running when approached, there are other pointers for when teaching good field manners. When you are approaching the horse, don’t look them in the eye. As with any animal, eye contact is meant to infer dominance. Since horses are a prey animal, if they feel like something or someone is trying to dominate them, they will run. Minimizing eye contact is less threatening to your horse. You may also hide the halter and lead rope behind your back. Horses are smart, and some will associate the halter and lead rope with being ridden. Treats and food can be used to lure your horse if worse comes to worst. However, using food or treats in training a horse should be limited to desperate situations, not every time.

When a horse is consistently difficult to catch, use the previous methods to catch your horse, but occasionally just halter your horse, give them a treat, and take the halter back off. This way, your horse will not assume that they are going to have to work every single time you enter the field. As much as a horse may love being ridden, they have their lazy days as well.

Training a horse for good ground manners extend far beyond the field. Some horses, when standing in the cross ties, will stomp and sway from side to side. It’s not necessarily a bad thing, and it doesn’t mean your horse is being bad. They could be nervous or anxious. Unless he is pulling hard against the cross ties, it’s more of a nuisance than a threat. Some horses do it constantly. To be honest, there is no easy fix for this.

Consistency (not taking them out of the cross ties because they are handling them badly), a stern voice, and a swat on the rump (with your hand only) can help your horse learn that the cross ties are not such a bad thing. They will typically calm down if you groom them while in the cross ties, since it’s relaxing to them. If your horse respects and listens to you in other settings, you have a better chance of helping them handle the cross ties well.

Katie Olson is an accomplished equestrian in the Hunter/Jumper discipline, and she is an experienced horse trainer. She has ridden and/or trained several horses over her eleven-year career as a passionate rider. For more information about training a horse and to become part of our new online community of horse lovers visit Training A Horse. Ground Manners.

Author: Katie Olson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Pressure cooker

Before the ultimate goal of saddle training can begin it is necessary to complete some important groundwork with your horse. You will need to take your horse from trailer or barn to the tack area, tack up, and then you’ll ride. You can’t begin to teach point B if you’ve not first mastered how to get there from point A. The two of you can only act as a team if your horse cooperates with you. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. After that you can use a halter and rope to lead your horse.

Teaching a horse the boundaries of acceptable behaviour is done with the primary objective of safety in mind. He will need to be taught that his natural tendency to pull against the lead rope, for example, is not allowed. A horse should never be allowed to invade the personal space of whoever is holding the lead rope. Accidents can easily occur if proper consideration to teaching basic safety manners to your horse is not given before moving on to more advanced training. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

The three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – come into play when leading your horse. You have probably already discovered the 3Ps to be effective if you have accomplished haltering.

Ideally you need to begin lead training with your horse when he is still a foal. Basic ground manners should be taught from an early age, before the horse is old enough to worry about saddles and riding. Cooperation will still be required from the young horse during vet or farrier visits, as well as for the various other people he may come into contact with.

If you happen to have the dam – the foal’s mother – present, lead training will be easier as he will naturally copy her behaviours. If not, any horse with which the foal spends time will also work. Young horses naturally learn from the older ones in the herd. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They watch the other horses to learn these things. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. As you do this you will notice your student watching and paying attention to these events occurring around him.

Start off by leading two horses – the foal and either it’s dam or a more experienced horse – side by side with you in the middle. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

You could also use the pony method if you have a calm horse which the foal will be comfortable following. This is done by simply towing the student horse behind using a longer lead rope. It makes sense in fact to teach the lead in this way, as it’s natural for a young horse to follow an elders lead.

If you don’t have the luxury of having other horses close by from which your student can learn, you will need to rely heavily on your skills of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. Don’t be discouraged if it takes longer than you would like for your horse to understand what it is that’s expected of him.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells your horse he’s doing something right.

When he can successfully walk with you in straight lines, try a slight left turn whist maintaining the space bubble. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. You will need to reward him by releasing the pressure on the lead rope each time he steps in the right direction.

A large amount of patience is required to successfully complete lead training with your horse. Big improvements will soon be made if you can just stick with it. Work every day if possible for short periods and you’ll be pleased with the results; then you will be moving closer to the time when you can saddle up and begin riding.

AFI Horse Insurance is proud to announce the launch of their brand new range of horse insurance and rider only insurance policies which can be tailor-made to suit the needs of you and your horse. Why not give them a call now on 0844 57 32 100 for a quote – their team of equestrian experts will be only too happy to help.

Author: Stephanie Andrew
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Electric Pressure Cooker

I just bought my first horse, and she is being broke right now to ride and has already been ridden and is great with ground manners. I am a full time worker and was wondering how some of you fit time for your horse if you work an 8-5, and if it’s bad if you only see your horse 2-3 times a week? Like many full time white collar workers I get the weekends off, and would be close to my horse so I may only be able to spend 1 or 2 horse twice a week during my work week, but all day on the 2 days I have off. Any suggestions? I just want my horse to feel loved and not hate me or forget her training because I’m not seeing her every single day. All suggestions and advice are greatly appreciated! Thanks.

I just bought my first horse, and she is being broke right now to ride and has already been ridden and is great with ground manners. I am a full time worker and was wondering how some of you fit time for your horse if you work an 8-5, and if it’s bad if you only see your horse 2-3 times a week? Like many full time white collar workers I get the weekends off, and would be close to my horse so I may only be able to spend 1 or 2 horse twice a week during my work week, but all day on the 2 days I have off. Any suggestions? I just want my horse to feel loved and not hate me or forget her training because I’m not seeing her every single day. All suggestions and advice are greatly appreciated! Thanks.

Buying your first horse is exciting and can be very rewarding. When buying your first horse there are a number of things you need to consider. Owning a horse is a huge responsibility but the rewards are worth it; they are amazing animals and their love is never ending.

Firstly choosing a horse for your needs is the most important thing to do. If you want a horse to just quietly hack out on the weekend then you would look for a horse that has a kind and quiet temperament and is what we call ‘bomb proof’ it should be educated in all areas. It is also an advantage if he is a ‘good doer’. This means that your horse will be little or no maintainance with his feed. Types of horse that are generally most suited to this are stock horses, quarter horses or most types of ponies. If you were looking at competing and you are able to ride most days then you would look for something that specializes in the area you want to go into like show jumping for example. We are seeing more and more Warmbloods emerge from our own breeding stock but also imported stallions and mares. In Europe warmbloods are used mainly in show jumping and dressage but now they are breaking into eventing. Temperament is a major factor in buying a horse, you have to look at ground manners, and it’s temperament when being riden. It’s trainability is a huge part of temperament.

Main Factors to look for when selecting the horse to view:

Your ability – make an accurate assessment of how well you ride, always try and be honest as this will allow you to get the perfect horse for you!

Facilities that are available to you – Climate and weather can affect your choice in breeds. If you only have fields available to you and you live in a cold climate then you will have to buy a breed that can survive through winter in a field. You may have to supplement his feed. If you have stables available then you have more choice.

Age – this will depend on your experience level, and what you want the horse for.

Height – a horse that is to short or to big for you can make riding much harder. Make sure you feel comfortable on the horse.

Breed – can be discipline specific. An example would be, if you wanted to go into show jumping – then a warmblood with a good form over a fence would be more appropriate than a thoroughbred that was bred to race.

Education – What has he done? What results has he received? Who has been riding him.? If he’s riden by a really experienced rider, or a beginner. For beginners a school master would be an appropriate kind of horse. This means that the horse has been correctly trained and educated. However, when looking for a school master be careful as the term is sometimes used very lightly and the ‘school master’ may not have a kind temperament.

Price – Price of course can be a limiting factor. Don’t be put off by a cheaper horse, no one else needs to know how much he was and if you’ve chosen well he will be a good horse anyway.

Things to do when you think you have the right one:

First before anything else when you go and see him, take a professional or experienced rider with you that knows your strengths and weaknesses. This will allow you to have some feedback on how you will go with him. Whether or not he will be tricky or be able to teach you anything. It will also give you an idea on his temperament, if the horse is willing to to behave for his rider. Some horses aren’t easy for beginners and an experienced rider will be able to help you assess whether or not the horse is suitable for you.

Always get on yourself if you feel safe. You may go and see a horse that your experienced rider suggests that you shouldn’t get on. Don’t worry if this happens, trust their advice. If you are not confident then don’t ride. Ask yourself why you are not confident. If it’s because the horse has been naughty for your experienced rider then it may do it to you as well which may knock your confidence. If you are just a little worried about a new horse give it a try in a small arena if it is available. Trust your own instinct. It would be good to have riden a number of different horses before you go to buy one so you already have a nice skill base and confidence to ride new horses.

Never buy the first horse the first time you see him. You can still come back and buy the first one you saw, but never ever buy on first sight. Always go at least twice to see the horse. The first time will be arranged but try to make the second one a ‘last minute’ decision. Call the owner when your half an hour away and say ‘we were just in the neighborhood and we’d thought we would just go and see the horse’. Even if you don’t ride him the second time, look at the horse, try to assess for yourself what the horse is like. Does he have the same temperament as the first time you saw him? That’s the point to see the horse in it’s own area with other horses and people. If you give them days to prepare the horse they can work him hard so he’s not to jumpy or even dope him to ensure he will be quiet. Your not trying to be cheeky or tricky you have to make sure that the horse is right for you!

If you’ve tried him once, and an experienced rider has confirmed he will be suitable, get him VETTED. Beginners always make the mistake of getting to excited and buying on the first look. This can end up being a nightmare. If you do not get him checked by a vet, any problems that he has had or still has, can not be detected. Remember that some horse people will try to sell you a dud horse. If you get him vetted the vet will tell you if there is anything that you should be aware of, or worried about. It is then your decision whether or not to buy. Get an independent vet, and do not let the seller arrange this. Unless it is a big name rider, although just to be safe I would still arrange it yourself. It’s a little more work but if you’ve arranged it then you can feel more relaxed that the vet won’t be getting a commission from the seller. I have heard many stories about people (even experienced horse people) buying a horse without being vetted and it having chronic lameness 2 days after it gets home. This is a disaster if you don’t get it vetted you can’t do anything about it without going to court and fighting to prove that the seller knew about it before they sold the horse to you.

Questions to ask:

1. How long have you had him (then who had him before you). Get his history.

2. Is he quiet to shoe, float, worm and clip? If he’s not ask if there is any reason that they feel he’s not OK with it?

3. Has he had any major injuries? Has he ever had colic or an operation for colic? Has he ever had laminitis, been lame or had any navicular damage? (At this point if he has had any major things happen to his feet you might want to just turn around and leave him there)

4. Why are you selling him? They could just have outgrown the pony, or be going to uni or not be interested in horses any more but if you think it might be because of any reason they aren’t telling you then ask more questions and try to find out why they aren’t telling you the truth.

My advice is if in doubt ASK someone. Ask a third party who isn’t getting paid by either party and only has your best interests at heart. Listen to your instincts, if you know it’s right and all the other information you have been gathering is saying the horse is right for you then go for it but on the other hand, if you have any doubts, then don’t buy. Or look into it more. If it’s something medical that is minor, then you might be able manage it. Research what it is, talk to experts including vets if you can.

If you do each step calmly and don’t rush into anything you will have found a wonderful pony or horse and will end up having a fabulous time bonding with your new best friend.

Author: Christine Turley
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Programmable pressure cooker

Ground Manners – An Overview

Horse training success is all in the work from the ground. A good, long-term relationship between you and your horse is built from the ground up, literally. Ground manners is about teaching your horse how to behave around humans and that you are his protector and friend. The two go hand in hand by building leadership respect and trust. The time dedicated to building a proper foundation by establishing control on the ground is well worth the effort involved.

Why would you want to bother with ground manners? Well, safety issues are a good start. An untrained or poorly trained horse with bad habits such as biting, kicking, rearing and charging (among others) is dangerous. A horse can kill a person with these behaviors. The horse can injure himself, for example, by rearing and banging his head on a low ceiling. Horses do knock themselves out, cut their heads on a nail or sharp corner and require stitches. Just think of the vet bills. And the panic you’d feel in this situation. Or think of the litigation if your horse kicked someone, injuring them so they were unable to work. These things do happen. Teaching a horse good ground manners is teaching a horse that these are unacceptable and unnecessary reactions.

The horse that won’t stand still is a danger. One day you’ll be caught in the wrong spot, he’ll get a fright and someone will be hurt. The horse that keeps leaning into you and treading on your (soon to be broken) foot is not fun. The horse that tries to kick when you pick out his feet is going to injure you one day. Good ground manners is about teaching a horse to respect your personal space.

The nervous or disobedient horse is also a danger. The jumpy horse that shies and knocks you over is a liability. The horse that loses his mind and tries to run every time he sees a plastic bag is more than a nuisance. Ground manners is about showing your horse that scary things aren’t so scary and to have confidence in you. To trust that you, as leader and protector, will always keep him safe.

Good manners on the ground makes the transition to riding much smoother and much much simpler. You will have learned to read your horses feelings or mood. He is not your servant. He is your partner. He will have learned unquestioned obedience. As a result, your riding sessions will be more fun.

Taking the time to lay firm foundations will also mean that you will be training a horse that is willing to please, that is EASIER TO TRAIN IN THE LONG RUN, that is a joy to work with and not an obstinate animal that is always acting out. When you choose to own a horse, you’re making a commitment for many years, so you want to be sure you’re going to have a well-behaved and easy to handle horse-friend.

The Basics Of Ground Manners For Your Horse

Teaching good ground manners right from the beginning will result in a horse that is a joy to own, while keeping yourself as safe as possible. Enforcing ground manners will teach your horse to:

* Look to you as leader for what to do whenever he is unsure of a situation (less likely to bolt, shy or be disobedient in new situations)

* Not crowd your personal space (no kicking, biting, charging, leaning, treading on your feet etc)

* Respond appropriately to whatever you are asking him to do

* Have calm confidence in the outside world because you will protect him

* Stand still patiently

* Tie calmly

* Allow you to pick up his feet for cleaning

* Allow you to groom him

* Calmly accept being bridled, haltered and led

* Accept being saddled without moving

* Refrain from nipping, kicking, charging or rearing to get his way

All this BEFORE you get on his back. It is actually a good idea to spend some time with a new horse on getting these basics right before you start riding. Despite how eager you will probably be to hop on and go, spend a few weeks or even months working on ground manners. It pays off in the end. If you’re having trouble with riding your horse, it may also be a wise investment of time to stop riding for a while and get these basics back on track.

So how do you instill those good ground manners in your horse? By understanding how a horse’s mind works. There are 6 basic principles you need to learn that apply to all horse situations.

1. Repetition

It is not widely known that a horse can take around 60 iterations of a lesson to ‘get it’. That’s right. It may take you repeating the exact same lesson 60 times before your horse understands what you are trying to teach. To put this in perspective, if you see your horse once a week and teach the same lesson once each time, then it may take over a year for your horse to learn it. Of course you may try the lesson more than once a session and you may see your horse more than once a week, but it takes TIME and PATIENCE to train a horse effectively.

The good news is that you can be successful in training your horse to have good behavior in any situation. This applies to all horses, whether they are young, old, previously poorly trained or have been in neglectful and abusive situations. You can teach your horse to lead, tone down aggressive behaviors towards people and other horses, teach a nervous horse to be calm, and get rid of bad habits horses learn such as rearing, biting, and kicking. All of this can be attained. But please remember that horse training takes as long as it takes. 60 repetitions is an average.

2. Be a leader to your horse

Horses are herd animals and are mentally wired to look up to the leader of the herd. In a herd, which is the natural situation for a horse, there is a pecking order (order of dominance). The stallion and lead mare are the leaders. Every other horse below them in the pecking order will look to these two to find out how to react in a given situation. If the leaders are calm, the others are calm, if the leaders are running for their lives, the rest of the herd is right behind them. It is also the leaders job to keep an eye out for danger. Or in other words, the leaders signal to the rest of the herd what is dangerous and what is safe. The rest of the herd has 100% faith in their leaders. They follow blindly. They do not think rationally or for themselves. This horse behavior makes a horse very easy to train.

To use this horse behavior to your advantage when youre training your horse, the leader of his herd needs to be you. You MUST show, through your tone of voice, your body language, your confidence, that you are a leader. For example, you cannot expect a horse to walk calmly past a barking dog if you are frightened yourself. If there are situations around your horse that scare you, you need to be inventive and work out how to avoid the situation where your horse can see you as weak. If your horse often charges you, avoid the trigger situation until you have established dominance in other situations. Get outside help if you need it. A horse generally weighs as much as 10 times more than a human, so you cannot expect to out muscle your horse when it behaves inappropriately. It is crucial that you become the leader to your horse so he follows you, rather than dragging you around.

3. Consistency

Being a leader also means having a zero tolerance policy towards your horse invading your personal space or disobeying your requests. In the herd, the pecking order is often challenged. Stay vigilant as the pecking order is never set in stone. If you get slack, the horse will start to dominate you. Be firm, consistent and persistent in applying your rules. You’re either training or de-training your horse every moment you’re with him. Mind the small stuff. It really does matter. Your horse will test you in small ways to see how serious you are. If you don’t hold your ground over your space or do accept a tardy response to a request, you’re effectively eroding the respect he has for you. ‘That’s ok, I don’t really mean stop when I say so’. This is then a green flag for your horse to try on bigger and bigger misbehaviors. For example, don’t let your horse kiss you. Not just for reasons of hygiene! No, letting any horse nibble or kiss you is sending him down the slippery slope of developing a biting habit. After all, a bite is just a firm nibble isn’t it? And a biting problem is not one you want to be dealing with. Painful for you, and difficult to get rid of. In this case, no kisses, no nibbles, no bites. Ever. Be firm, consistent and persistent in applying your ground rules. Absolute CONSISTENCY is the key to fast training.

4. Trust

One of the biggest reasons horses lack good ground manners is the fact they don’t trust as well as respect the people who are handling them. Trust and respect go hand in hand and once you have attained that, the rest of your training is so much easier. As leader (where you earn respect), part of your job is to keep your horse SAFE (where you earn trust). That’s safe from his perspective, not yours. You might think he’s perfectly safe in a trailer, but if he’s never been in one you’ll need to show him that you’ll go into one and that other horses agree it’s safe too. Your job is to prove to your horse that no matter what goes on around him, he will not be harmed. Angry bullying won’t work. Losing your temper won’t work. Banging his teeth with the bit, slapping him unexpectedly on the rump, making loud, sudden noises and unexpected gestures don’t help either. Let your horse know where you are and what you’re up to as much as possible. Be calm, be considerate, be affectionate, be patient. This path leads to earning your horse’s trust, an essential for a long and happy relationship.

5. Be fun

No one, even a horse, enjoys all work and no play. Remember to make your lessons enjoyable. Your aim is to encourage your horse to look forward to hanging out with you. What your horse likes will be individual, but most horses have a place on their body they like having scratched or rubbed. This can be a reward for obedience. Many horses enjoy the mental stimulation of a lesson if it’s not repeated endlessly in one go. More than half an hour on any one lesson at once is too much. 10 or 15 minutes is enough. And horses like variety in their ‘work’. So sometimes go out for a trail ride, sometimes do some jumping, sometimes work in the ring. Mix it up and keep it interesting. A bored horse is a cranky horse, and anyone in a bad mood is likely to misbehave.

6. Comfort

The horse likes a life of comfort. That means, a life free from irritants as well as pain. You can use his dislike of being irritated to your training advantage. Basically, you are looking for non-painful but annoying things you can do to encourage your horse to do as you ask. The key is to remove the irritant immediately when the horse does what you are asking. Stopping the annoying thing you were doing is his reward for doing as you asked. This is the most effective and yet gentle way to teach your horse to do what you ask

One example of irritant training is a technique called pressure and release. An example of pressure and release:

If you wanted your horse to turn its head to the left, you would put your hand in the halter strap and gently pull to the left just slightly. As soon as the horse begins to turn his head left, let go of the halter, releasing the pressure, and praise your horse quietly. If your horse were to pull to the right instead, you would continue to apply gentle pressure to the left until your horse complied, then release and praise again. Through patient, consistent repetition, your horse will learn what you are asking. This is the pressure and release training method in a nutshell, and can be applied throughout your horse’s training.

So these are the 6 basics of teaching ground manners. Repetition; Be a leader; Consistency; Trust; Be fun; and Comfort. Apply these whenever you are around your horse and you will be well on the way to many happy times.

Author: Phil Tragear
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Guest blogger

This is basic ground manners explained. These manners require that your horse does as you ask. Even the simplest of tasks or movements needs to be performed safely by the horse. He should not push, step on, crowd, or in any way endanger you either intentionally or unintentionally. While these may only appear to be slightly annoying habits at times, it is important to break them before somebody gets hurt. Since horses outweigh you by a ton, literally, a misplaced hoof can break your foot. You could be covered for this type of injury under the terms of your equine insurance – but it’s far less painful to avoid the necessity of that in the first place! Your very own personal space bubble can be established and then maintained to best avoid this problem.

Allowing your horse to nuzzle into your pockets in the search for crunchy treats could land you with a nibble in a rather inconvenient place. A horse’s love nibbles are painful when applied to mere human skin. Horses in a herd treat each other differently than they must treat us. They crowd, nip, and bite each other, but they are far more durable than we humans, of course.

Unfortunately, the space bubble lesson has been learned by many the hard way. My first, and subsequently the last, experience with the concept of crowding occurred when I bought my first horse years ago. My wonderful new four-legged friend liked to “help” me with the paddock cleaning. As I shovelled and filled the manure cart, he would come and put his nose into it. Then one day he actually lifted his front hoof and put it into the cart when I put a rake full of manure in. He knocked the cart over, which spooked him, which in turn spooked the other three horses in the paddock. Suddenly I found myself within the midst of hooves and tails every which way. Thankfully I was not hurt, but this could have been a mild or even a serious disaster – and may have even necessitated a claim on my horse insurance.

This happened when our training relationship was in its learning curve phase. I was so amused at his trying to help me with my chores that I didn’t think about the potential consequences. On that day I learned the importance of manners. from that day on I began to teach him the importance of respecting my space if I happened to be in the paddock doing jobs or attending to the other horses. If he wanted to play cute he could still do this during the time we spent together learning cues and training.

You can use the three Ps of horse training to instil basic safety manners into your horse. The relationship which you have with any horse – be it your own or one you are training for someone else – is largely dependant on the use of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement.

Patience. Remember that your horse doesn’t yet know what is expected of him. You will go a long way in building trust by showing patience with your horse when showing him what to do, and letting him try and try again until he gets it. Enter the training session with a clear and stress free mind. Take a deep breath and relax. It is part of the natural learning process for your horse to test the waters. He needs to check and see if what he thinks you want is correct. This can occur several times before the horse has confirmed his correct assessment of the task.

Persistence. Don’t give up after just a few tries. It is difficult to communicate at first. After all, you don’t speak the same language yet! Stay with it and be consistent in your cues. Horses are very perceptive to even the slightest cue. It will not usually take long for a horse to learn what a cue means – then you will have cooperation.

Positive reinforcement. Give your horse the signal when he’s done something correctly. The best rewards don’t always come in the form of a tasty treat. They love to be released when they’ve done their job. Imagine the “whoa!” or “stop” cue. It’s a pull on the bit within the horse’s mouth. When the horse exhibits the signs that he understands that you want him to stop, release the bit immediately. This lets him know that he is doing the right thing.

Horses need to know their limits. How close can he stand to you before you feel crowded? Can he pull on the lead rope if he doesn’t want to go the way you are leading him? Is he allowed to get away with things that he may not wish to do on a whim? For a horse this is not natural, even though to us it may seem like common sense. A correctly and carefully trained horse will forever be both a most pleasing companion and could also represent a lower liability when it comes to renewing your horse insurance policy.