Posts Tagged ‘First Horse’

Having a horse is fun, but a major responsibility, so be thorough on your research of barns to board it at. It pays to choose a place that is close to where you live, has facilities that are well maintained and most importantly, gives its horses proper care and nutrition. Each barn has its own atmosphere, is it one you can live with? If you want to participate in horse shows, it may be a good idea to choose a barn that frequents the kinds of shows you want to be in. If you live in a cold climate, make sure the barn has a large indoor arena for winter riding.

Do you ride English or Western? If English is your thing, then make sure your barn has jumps available, and/or a dressage ring. I ride English, and my barn had a top show trainer in it, so if I needed to prepare for a show, he was there to critique my riding during lessons. I liked boarding my horse at a place with a competent, experienced trainer, one that took the time to explain the exercises and gave me quality instruction. Since I spent most of my money at this sport, I wanted to make sure I was doing everything right.

If you ride Western, make sure there are trails to ride on nearby your barn. And again, find a barn that has a trainer suited to your style of riding in order to get the proper instruction. Once you find a barn you like, whatever style you ride, spend time taking lessons there before buying a horse, just to get a feel of the place. If you haven’t found a horse yet, trainers can assist you in looking. Ask around, and tell them how much you are looking to spend on your first horse. Another great way to find a horse is during the summer, many young horse owners are getting ready to go off to college and need to sell their animal fast. This is a good bargaining time, if the seller is motivated, you may talk the price down on his horse. Have them throw in the tack (saddle, bridle, etc) too, as part of the bargain. When I sold my horse to go to college, I gladly gave the buyers (a well maintained show barn) all my tack since I knew he was going to be in good hands. It pays to ask about the tack, to save on money, since having a horse is very expensive any way you look at it.

Make sure the horse is healthy before committing to buying it. This is incredibly important. Make sure to have a vet look it over, and tell you what condition he is in. Are his legs sound? Has he ever been lame? Has he had all his shots, and is he disease-free? Also, make sure there are no growths on his ears. A friend of mine bought an expensive show horse, only to find out he had skin cancer on one of his ears. One of his ears had to be partially removed, it was really sad. Make sure the animal is completely sound and has a personality you can live with.

One way to try out horse ownership is to lease a horse from its owner. Most barns have horses that are up for lease, you can even get a half or quarter lease sometimes. Then, you help with the bills of the horse, but are not fully responsible for it. You work out with the owner, and anyone who may be sharing the lease with you, what days you will ride. That is a great solution if you have limited time, because owning a horse, even when boarded at a show stable, is still very time consuming. You must groom, saddle, ride, unsaddle, wash then clean its feet every time you ride. And, I used to let my horse out into the paddocks and wait for him to have fun kicking up his heels every day, instead of paying extra to have the trainer do it for me. I spent at least four hours every afternoon at my stable since he was my full responsibility, I owned him so his well-being was totally up to me alone. The barn workers fed the horses, mucked stalls and kept the grounds up. I kept the horse clean, healthy and happy, as well as my tack spotlessly maintained.

Keep in mind, horses have other bills that must be paid, such as vet bills (worming, shots, etc) and farrier (horseshoes, hoof trimming, etc). These must be done on a regular schedule and not ignored. Taking good care of your horse’s feet is of major importance so never skimp on cleaning or trimming them. Also, buy shampoo and other grooming products online to save money. If you don’t have a locker in your barn, get a caddy to hold your grooming supplies, and keep it in the back of your car. Leaving it out in the open at the barn invites trouble, in the form of others “borrowing” things and forgetting to put them back, so it’s best to have a locking trunk or keep the caddy in the back of your car.

If you plan to show your horse, ask your barn how much they charge to use their horse trailer. Most barns will haul the horse for you, for the asking, as long as they have enough trailer space for all the horses going to the show. Showing is addictive. Start at a small, local show and see how you like it. Then, if you do well and enjoy yourself, work your way up to bigger shows. Going to a horse show is a enjoyable family event. Many people bring picnics to watch the show as their children ride. If you win a prize, it’s a bonus, but do it for the sheer pleasure of it all. If you show, make sure to wear the appropriate clothing and boots. Advance preparation of both the rider and horse is the key to a successful day of horse showing.

Once you and your horse are settled in and know each other, you will make a good team and build on your experiences together. Bring him treats, talk to him and give kind approval so he learns to trust you. My horse used to whinny whenever he saw me walking towards him. We were buddies and I used to make him carrot cake every New Year’s Day (he was a Thoroughbred and all registered Thoroughbreds share the birthday of January first, whether they were born on that day or not). He plowed through that cake in minutes flat and looked for more. We were a great team and I’ll never forget him. These little things make the relationship you have with your horse all the more special. Owning a horse is a special privelege so enjoy each and every day with him. Grow together, learn new things, and both your lives will be enriched and happy. I highly recommend it.

Author: Carolyn McFann
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Buying your first horse is exciting and can be very rewarding. When buying your first horse there are a number of things you need to consider. Owning a horse is a huge responsibility but the rewards are worth it; they are amazing animals and their love is never ending.

Firstly choosing a horse for your needs is the most important thing to do. If you want a horse to just quietly hack out on the weekend then you would look for a horse that has a kind and quiet temperament and is what we call ‘bomb proof’ it should be educated in all areas. It is also an advantage if he is a ‘good doer’. This means that your horse will be little or no maintainance with his feed. Types of horse that are generally most suited to this are stock horses, quarter horses or most types of ponies. If you were looking at competing and you are able to ride most days then you would look for something that specializes in the area you want to go into like show jumping for example. We are seeing more and more Warmbloods emerge from our own breeding stock but also imported stallions and mares. In Europe warmbloods are used mainly in show jumping and dressage but now they are breaking into eventing. Temperament is a major factor in buying a horse, you have to look at ground manners, and it’s temperament when being riden. It’s trainability is a huge part of temperament.

Main Factors to look for when selecting the horse to view:

Your ability – make an accurate assessment of how well you ride, always try and be honest as this will allow you to get the perfect horse for you!

Facilities that are available to you – Climate and weather can affect your choice in breeds. If you only have fields available to you and you live in a cold climate then you will have to buy a breed that can survive through winter in a field. You may have to supplement his feed. If you have stables available then you have more choice.

Age – this will depend on your experience level, and what you want the horse for.

Height – a horse that is to short or to big for you can make riding much harder. Make sure you feel comfortable on the horse.

Breed – can be discipline specific. An example would be, if you wanted to go into show jumping – then a warmblood with a good form over a fence would be more appropriate than a thoroughbred that was bred to race.

Education – What has he done? What results has he received? Who has been riding him.? If he’s riden by a really experienced rider, or a beginner. For beginners a school master would be an appropriate kind of horse. This means that the horse has been correctly trained and educated. However, when looking for a school master be careful as the term is sometimes used very lightly and the ’school master’ may not have a kind temperament.

Price – Price of course can be a limiting factor. Don’t be put off by a cheaper horse, no one else needs to know how much he was and if you’ve chosen well he will be a good horse anyway.

Things to do when you think you have the right one:

First before anything else when you go and see him, take a professional or experienced rider with you that knows your strengths and weaknesses. This will allow you to have some feedback on how you will go with him. Whether or not he will be tricky or be able to teach you anything. It will also give you an idea on his temperament, if the horse is willing to to behave for his rider. Some horses aren’t easy for beginners and an experienced rider will be able to help you assess whether or not the horse is suitable for you.

Always get on yourself if you feel safe. You may go and see a horse that your experienced rider suggests that you shouldn’t get on. Don’t worry if this happens, trust their advice. If you are not confident then don’t ride. Ask yourself why you are not confident. If it’s because the horse has been naughty for your experienced rider then it may do it to you as well which may knock your confidence. If you are just a little worried about a new horse give it a try in a small arena if it is available. Trust your own instinct. It would be good to have riden a number of different horses before you go to buy one so you already have a nice skill base and confidence to ride new horses.

Never buy the first horse the first time you see him. You can still come back and buy the first one you saw, but never ever buy on first sight. Always go at least twice to see the horse. The first time will be arranged but try to make the second one a ‘last minute’ decision. Call the owner when your half an hour away and say ‘we were just in the neighborhood and we’d thought we would just go and see the horse’. Even if you don’t ride him the second time, look at the horse, try to assess for yourself what the horse is like. Does he have the same temperament as the first time you saw him? That’s the point to see the horse in it’s own area with other horses and people. If you give them days to prepare the horse they can work him hard so he’s not to jumpy or even dope him to ensure he will be quiet. Your not trying to be cheeky or tricky you have to make sure that the horse is right for you!

If you’ve tried him once, and an experienced rider has confirmed he will be suitable, get him VETTED. Beginners always make the mistake of getting to excited and buying on the first look. This can end up being a nightmare. If you do not get him checked by a vet, any problems that he has had or still has, can not be detected. Remember that some horse people will try to sell you a dud horse. If you get him vetted the vet will tell you if there is anything that you should be aware of, or worried about. It is then your decision whether or not to buy. Get an independent vet, and do not let the seller arrange this. Unless it is a big name rider, although just to be safe I would still arrange it yourself. It’s a little more work but if you’ve arranged it then you can feel more relaxed that the vet won’t be getting a commission from the seller. I have heard many stories about people (even experienced horse people) buying a horse without being vetted and it having chronic lameness 2 days after it gets home. This is a disaster if you don’t get it vetted you can’t do anything about it without going to court and fighting to prove that the seller knew about it before they sold the horse to you.

Questions to ask:

1. How long have you had him (then who had him before you). Get his history.

2. Is he quiet to shoe, float, worm and clip? If he’s not ask if there is any reason that they feel he’s not OK with it?

3. Has he had any major injuries? Has he ever had colic or an operation for colic? Has he ever had laminitis, been lame or had any navicular damage? (At this point if he has had any major things happen to his feet you might want to just turn around and leave him there)

4. Why are you selling him? They could just have outgrown the pony, or be going to uni or not be interested in horses any more but if you think it might be because of any reason they aren’t telling you then ask more questions and try to find out why they aren’t telling you the truth.

My advice is if in doubt ASK someone. Ask a third party who isn’t getting paid by either party and only has your best interests at heart. Listen to your instincts, if you know it’s right and all the other information you have been gathering is saying the horse is right for you then go for it but on the other hand, if you have any doubts, then don’t buy. Or look into it more. If it’s something medical that is minor, then you might be able manage it. Research what it is, talk to experts including vets if you can.

If you do each step calmly and don’t rush into anything you will have found a wonderful pony or horse and will end up having a fabulous time bonding with your new best friend.

Author: Christine Turley
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Programmable pressure cooker

Owning a horse takes on a whole new set of responsibilities that leasing and lessons did not have.

I find that this is the most overlooked part of horse ownership, and I see it daily in the horse world. Horses can be expensive, even when they live with you as opposed to being boarded out.

They are living, breathing creatures whose very lives are completely dependent upon YOU for survival. I cannot state this enough, especially having gone through years of watching people get them and dispose of them when no longer needed or wanted.

If you have any indications that you may not be able to keep up the commitments, I ask that you keep your lease horse and read no further. I’m not trying to be harsh, but this next step requires you to do some soul searching. It’s not really about the money.

Since you are still reading, let’s take a good hard look at the real cost of horse ownership.

There are many articles on this subject, but three factors to keeping costs down are:

Buy a sound, healthy, happy, trained, quiet horse that has passed a battery of veterinarian testing and professional trainer/coach approval.

Keep the horse in a place that is safe and free from hazards.

Research and read everything you can about horses: skeleton and structure, feed and nutrition, care and grooming, feet and maintenance. The riding is up to you and your coach.

Costs for owning a horse go through the roof when these above principles are neglected or passed by. If I wrote down all the people I know right now, whose horses are out of commission, the reasons would be because of at least one of the above principles.

The Cost of a Good Horse

Horse prices vary around the world, so we will use North American averages. Let’s look at a few of the necessities of a first horse and the price for it.

Sound, healthy, vetted clean, not too young or old (7-13)
Well mannered, trailers nicely, can be clipped and bathed
Has basic training levels down well: stop, go, turns, cues lightly, trained mouth
Has registration papers
May have competed at entry level

Price for this horse: $5,000. Price for this pony: $3500 – 5000.

Now let’s add some frills:

Horse has been in many shows and pinned in ‘A’ circuits – Add $2000 and up

Horse is discipline specific; jumping, hunter, reining, breed classes – Add $2,000 (smaller levels) to $15,000 (medium levels) to anything over $50,000 (higher levels)

Breeding: purebred or reasonable bloodlines – Add $2,000 and up. For the top bloodlines – Add $5,000 and up. Poor bloodlines can drop the price of a horse.

Horse has level 3 and 4 dressage – Add $25,000 and up

Horse is a proven broodmare – Add $2000 and up

Horse comes from a notable trainer – Add $3000 and up.

Costs vary with every horse, but these are generalities. When it comes to the price of a horse, it’s not always the quality or training. Market value is what someone will pay, and if no one will pay $50,000 for a well-bred hunter, you won’t sell it. It’s very simple.

Good ponies are worth their weight in gold, so you may have to spend more for a winning pony, but if the pony is young enough, you will recoup every dollar and sometimes more.

The price of horses also is dictated by the economic climate. As of the writing of this article, July 2008, you don’t even have to pay for a horse these days. Auctions have been selling them from $20 to $200; half of the value of meat. Check out this site for the truth on auction horses and the current auction prices: fuglyhorseoftheday.com

Speaking of Auctions

Can you get a good horse at an auction? Absolutely, but it relies on 50% – skill and 50% – luck. There are more bad reasons for horses being at an auction than good reasons.

Should you try an auction? As a first time buyer, absolutely not, unless you bring someone skilled, and even then it’s still 50% luck. If it’s your first horse, it would be heartbreaking to bring the horse home and a week later have a vet tell you the horse is unserviceable for life. We will have more on auctions in a future article.

Cost of Ownership

Boarding

Keeping your horse at a stable varies immensely. Let’s look at the monthly variants:

Backyard, no barn, reasonable feeding, full care, shelter, no arenas – $150 – $350
Private small facility, good care/feed, stalls, turnout, arenas (outdoor) – $300 – $550
Self board, you do everything, pay for all feed, clean stalls – $150 – $350
Quality barn, come competitors, excellent care, instructors, indoor arena – $550 – $700
Competition barn, discipline specific, best of everything, trainers, coaches $700 – $1,500 (plus frills)

Keeping your horse in your back yard depends on the amenities and outbuildings you have. Lets start with the buildings you may have to build (based on averages only):

Outside shelter/run-in, 14′x14′, open 2 sides: $350 – $600 (untreated or treated lumber), if someone else build it: $1,000 +
Small barn, 2 stalls, hay storage, concrete floor, one storey, ‘traditional’ building style, around 36×40: You build-$35,00. They build: $45,000
Hay storage shed: $400-600.
Shavings and bedding shed: $400-600.
Fencing, corral 40′ x 100′: Wood 3 rail painted – $16,000. Bayco high-tensile horse wire at 5 strands: $17,000. Metal: $65,000.
Fencing, pasture: wood, untreated unpainted – $60 per every 10 feet.
*Please note the absence of barbwire pricing. Barbwire has no business around horses. I have a saying: “That horse never died before.”

Building anything on a property only increases the property value, if done well. Anything less becomes a safety issue, which we talk about later.

Training and Lessons
Lesson, one hour, qualified instructor: $30 – 50/hour
Training, one month, qualified trainer: $1,000/month

Feeding

Grain for one 1100 pound horse: $35 – 50/month
Hay for same horse: Grass/orchard hay: $110-150/month. Timothy: $120-170/month. Alfalfa mix: $120-170/month. (pure alfalfa is for cattle. More on that in future articles, or see Kathryn Watts, Marijke van de Water).

Average 50 lb. bale cost: orchard $5-12. Timothy: $12-18. Alfalfa mix: $16-24.

Hay will rise substantially in the next 2 years from the cost of fuel and the depletion of farmland for corn crops. Drought and economy also play a role in the variable feed pricing.

Worming
Every 2-3 months: $20 each time

Vet Care
Call out (before they do anything) $65-85
Average one hour visit with no return or emergency: $250-350
Vaccinations: $120/year

Feet
Trim, all 4: $30-45
Shoes, general all-purpose set of 4: $220-280
Shoes, 2 fronts: $90-140
Specialty shoes, all 4: $280-450

Trims average every 4-6 weeks for optimum health. Shoes the same.

Bedding
Per month: Shavings: $40-65. Pellets: $50-85. Straw: $25-50.

Equipment
Saddles
English, medium quality. Dressage: $1,700 – 3000. Hunt seat/all purpose: $1500 – 3000.
English, used, good quality: Dressage: $700-2500. Hunt seat/all purpose: $400-1600
Western, medium quality, all purpose trail: $1800-2400.
Western, good quality used: $800-2200

Bridles
English with bit: $85-125
Western with bit: $70-110

Halters
Web traditional: $25-55
Rope: $14-29
Leather: $50-120
Lead ropes: $12-30

Grooming Equipment
Brushes, combs, picks, misc: $30-100

Misc: saddle blankets, horse blankets, boots, wraps, first aid, tack cleaning supplies, sprays, bandages: $200-600/year.

Hauling
Average 100 mile trip: $1 to $2.50/mile

Insurance
This cost varies too greatly to make sense or put it on the site.

Total Equine Costs/Averages for One Year
Recreational horse at home (after building): $1800
Boarded recreational horse $7000
Boarded competition horse $15,000

It costs the same to board and feed a bad horse as it does a good horse. The initial price of the horse is the easy part.

Author: April Reeves
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Aren’t horses awesome animals? It seems they have been with us humans since the beginning of time assisting us with work and chores, we’ve been using them for recreation as well as entertainment purposes and yes, even for food. Before there were cars we used them for transportation purposes, be it on the roads but even on our waterways.

It is no wonder why so many people love horses: smart beings that they are and able to give mankind a great deal of commitment and allegiance. The decision to get a horse is a very easy one to take. The question then remains: where to go to find this very first horse? Undoubtedly the answer would have to be the horse breeders.

Horse breeders are the best place to buy your horse

In order to become and stay a horse breeder you have to love horses. There is much work involved in the breeding of horses, looking after their well being and grooming needs and without the love no one lasts long in the horse breeding business. Even if you are no rookie with horses and have been around them for some time you can still learn a lot from these horse breeders. These professionals handle their horses every day and are well acquainted with the daily matters and troubles.

A good horse breeder will help you with identifying horses and identifying what horse breed is best for your needs; do you want a racing horse or is it just for some riding delight? Horse breeders can tell the age of a horse by examining their teeth, but they can also advise you on the necessary equipment depending on your needs. Not every horse breed is suitable for every human personality and even within a certain breed horses, just as us humans are unique. Horse breeders can match you to the perfect horse for your personality.

Since the horse breeder knows the horse he is selling to you, you can always fall back on his knowledge and expertise in case something happens. His advice can be priceless since he does not have to guess: he knows his horses from the birth on and has raised them, knowing their little perks and habits. Horse breeders are also the best people to talk to for questions about feeding, grooming, exercising and maintaining your horse.

How to find a Horse Breeding Farm

To start with you could do a search online to find a horse breeding ranch near you, there are plenty of them around in the US. Do not buy a horse online though: you need to see the horse first. Good horse breeders won’t even let you buy online and insist that you examine the horses in person. That way you can take the horse for a test ride and find out if the horse has the qualities you are looking for. Depending on your desiderata the horse will have to own certain characteristics.

A word of warning

Buying a living thing, be it a horse or a cat or dog brings about a lot of responsibilities. Even more so in the case of a horse: they need open spaces not only for you to ride them but also for them to roam about.

Author: Frank Rom
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Gadget reviews

Some general pointers on choosing your first horse

Geldings generally have the most consistent behavior. They are generally the most even tempered and pleasant natured. Not every gelding will be like this, it’s that the odds are greatest that a gelding will be consistently good natured.
Mares, go in and out of “heat”. They have hormone cycles. This may or may not affect a mare’s behavior and temperament. Some mares are even tempered. Some can be Jekyll and Hyde. Be aware of this and ask the owner.
Stallions are not suitable for anyone other than experienced horse people. A beginner should not even consider one. End of story.

On the age of your horse, young horses or inexperienced older horses are not suitable for a beginner. Your ideal steed will be at least 5 and have been well handled and trained. You are after a horse who has maturity, who is familiar with the world of humans. A horse in his late teens or early twenties has plenty of maturity and would be a great first horse.

Of course, you are after a sound, healthy and pleasant natured animal. If the horse has a health issue, consider how this will affect the riding you want to do before deciding yay or nay. If the horse has a cranky temperament, it is not suitable for a beginner. Living in fear of being nipped or kicked by your first horse will destroy your confidence and your horsey dream, as well as being a physically dangerous situation.

Cover the basics

First of all, let’s go through some questions to find out what you’re after and what’s most suitable.

At what level are your horse and riding skills? It is a huge mistake, as a beginner, to purchase a horse that is beyond your current ability. It is far safer and easier to grow out of a horse than into one. You want a horse that you can ride now, based on your current level of skill.

Untrained, lightly trained, lightly handled or ‘green broke’ horses are often cheaper. There’s a reason for that. It’s because they need work, an experienced hand and time. They aren’t as predictable or reliable. The training required can take months or even a few years (think $$) and can lead to a dangerous horse if not done right (by a beginner).

What you pay for with an experienced horse is the training that has gone into the animal and the world experience and familiarity the horse has with human ways. It IS worth it for a first horse.
And please remember that if a horse is to be ridden by more than one person, look for a horse that will be suitable for the lowest skilled person.

Next question, is this a child’s horse or an adult’s? The answer will determine a suitable size for you to be comfortable on and build to carry your weight. A horse for both children and adults will need to be small enough for the kids to be comfortable, while tall and strong enough to carry an adult easily.

Now what sort of riding do you want to do? Is this a work horse? A show horse? A serious or fun competition horse? A jumper, barrel racer or endurance ride? Or a trail & leisure horse? Do you want to do dressage? The reason for answering this question is that it will help you focus the temperament, skills and confirmation you require from your horse. And perhaps a suitable breed.

There is no right or wrong breed of horse for a particular genre of horse sports in terms of suitability. It is dependent on the individual animal. Some types of competition are restricted to a particular breed. ie horse racing is restricted to thoroughbreds. There aren’t many of these, but find out beforehand.

Having said that, some breeds TEND to be particularly suitable for particular sports as they have been bred to excel in these. For instance, warmbloods and dressage, quarter horse and barrel racing, arabian and endurance riding. This does not exclude other breeds from excelling. Confirmation (the shape and way a horse is put together) will determine what horse will be good at what activity. A good endurance horse is built differently to a good dressage horse, for instance. There is no need to purchase a purebred or discount one breed over another. Find out what is important in a horse for your chosen discipline and look for a horse with those qualities. This is where your expert friend will help sort a suitable horse from one that just won’t do. If you don’t have a specialised sport in mind, any sound, healthy, quiet, gentle natured, well trained horse will do.

As far as a ‘good’ breed for a beginner goes, there is no right or wrong. The individual temperament of the horse and the training it has received are more important factors than it’s pedigree or papers.

Author: Phil Tragear
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: US Dollar credit card

Your first horse should give you positive experiences that will carry over into the rest of your life. Your first horse should be safe, have the ability to bond with you (not always possible as we’ll learn later) and be able to do many of the things you want to do with him/her.

Before you venture out to look, think this over well:

“What do I expect to get out of horse ownership?”

In my many years of retraining horses, I have seen too many people buy the wrong horse. These are not animals you should buy because you fall in love with them immediately. Very few people can feel a bond that quickly, and even they make mistakes in their choices. Bonding right away is not the reason one should override other problems the horse may have.

I have only had 2 long-term horses in my life: a big black jumper in my teens and an Arabian stallion. The stallion, Spike, was the greatest horse I have owned to date, but I also know that great horses are made first, and ‘gifted’ to you second. I have trained countless horses with talent and bonding ability, but the previous owners were not able to see this (often through lack of experience, time, training, general ‘horse sense’ ).

Finding the right horse means that you have to answer the above question with honesty and integrity. Another life depends on it.

What Can You Expect From Owning a Horse?

I would not be where I am today without having had them in my life, and I don’t mean the website and the riding experience. Horses supply valuable worldly skills at any age; it’s just gets a little more interesting when you’re older. My patience came from the horse: my gratitude came from the horse: and my compassion came from the horse.

Horses ask us to change the way we think. They need us to speak their language first. The road to learning this new language opens up the creative thinking side of a human, and challenges us to explore deeper within.

Adiva Murphy says it well: “Horses are intensely emotional, intuitive, intelligent beings. They are a true reflection of our deepest soul. Over time I have discovered their extraordinary ability to awaken intuition in humans, and their ability to mirror the authentic feelings people try to hide. This makes horses powerful therapeutic teachers.”

All Parents Should Read This

When I was young, I was trouble looking for a place to happen. I did not fit in at school, as I was too tall, too skinny and too geeky. I would never have made it through school without my horse.

For young people, growing up means learning to find your place in the world, or society. When parents tell me that horses are too expensive, and you see the look on the child’s face, I always ask them “How much does it cost to rehabilitate a kid on drugs, or raise a teen’s baby?” I’m not saying that kids without horses will go that path, but there are more than the obvious things that make horse ownership for youngsters a valuable tool for life.

By the end of grade 10, I was pinning in almost everything I went in, and jumping heights that scared me silly in grade 1. My courage to go places and advance was unstoppable, and I absorbed every detail I could about the horse.

In elementary school, I use to run home as fast as I could, to avoid the rocks the kids threw at me every day after school. I was never invited to play sports, even though I could have whipped just about everyone there. I always sat at the front of the class, as close to the teacher as possible. When I hear of bullying now, the things I endured as a little kid would have locked up many guilty youth today.

But as my horse knowledge grew, and I became stronger from having this highly positive experience in my life, I began to fight back. In grade 10, I found myself surrounded by ‘unpleasant’ girls in the bathroom. I was able to negotiate my way out of it (learning other language skills – the horse) and after taking off my jacket to reveal some rather strong arms, they left me alone, revering me the rest of the school year. It was better than the abuse.

Being a bit of an outcast at school also didn’t matter much as I went through Jr. and Sr. High. My attitude was “Go ahead, bug me all you want, but you can’t ride a horse as well as me.”

At the barn, I was surrounded with kids my age and all sorts of interesting horsey people. I fit in there, and was well respected. I met lots of new friends at the shows, and my memories of youth now are filled with happy tales of great adventure: sleeping in our horse’s stalls overnight at the shows; riding bareback through miles of endless trails; riding my first Rothman’s Grand Prix at the Northwest International and not having any recollection of the entire thing at the end from being so scared (but brave enough to do it).

How Horses Teach Us

Not all kids are like I was. But the point is, the horse taught me that I could excel in something (I was good in school, but back then that was ‘geeky’, so I never tried), gave me hope, showed me another way to communicate, and challenged the anger that could have grown out of proportion inside. My confidence soared, I took on any challenge and learned to nurture and respect all life. The things horses teach us.

Horses often take the place of a best friend, and that was my experience growing up. I cried with my horse, I laughed with my horse, and not once did he ever call me stupid (perhaps in a subtle way, when you ask them to do something and they tell you to ask another way).

Horses are incapable of learning our language. They are herd animals, and ‘precocial’, meaning they are born with the immediate response of being mobile and bonding to the mare. Precocial exists in prey animals, where as predators are born ‘altricial’, where the young are born helpless and bond with the parent(s) later. Horses have very limited verbal dialogue and use body language as their main way of communicating.

This forces humans to change their thinking patterns and physical behaviors around horses (if the human wants to get anywhere with the horse). As humans, we now are asked to bring down our walls and ego, and speak a dialogue that’s transparent and honest.

Find that course in grade school?

What Parents Should Look For

The trick for parents is to be able to judge whether or not horses are a passing fad for the year, or a way of life that the youngster will take with them. Not all young people stick with horses their whole life. In my world about 1 in 10 did. As parents, what you need to feel out is whether you are going to get into this, and have the child find interest in something else ten months down the road, after you have purchased the horse, equipment, lessons, trailer, truck (you get the message). But the child needs to ride in lessons first, for you to be able to judge this.

The best way to proceed is to get lessons at a reputable barn. How do you know a barn is reputable? Find two or three top trainers in the area and ask them. Top trainers and coaches know what and who to avoid. Spend time around a place and get a feel for the instructors. Are they in it for the kids or the paycheck, and with horse people this will stand out plain as day. Teaching youth is a gift and you either want to do it or you have to. The difference between the two is easy to distinguish. Also, do the horses look well fed and happy? Are they turned out daily? Is the facility managed by responsible people who show up? What are the qualifications of the instructors (they should at least have insurance)?

What if you don’t have any lesson barns close by? Many kids get their start by cleaning stalls and working in facilities. These kids are lucky, for they earn the right to be with horses, and usually stick with it long after all the ’stuff’ is bought. The drawback is that many of them learn by trial and error, and that means broken bones and the odd concussion, and the price the horse will pay in the process. Just go into a horse forum and start reading. You have to feel for some of those horses.

There is nothing that takes the place of lessons and good training from the start. It’s not a sport like hockey where you learn to skate and balance. This sport has a partner: a living, breathing entity whose survival depends solely on the owner/rider. I cannot stress this enough: there are far too many unwanted and abused horses. If you don’t have the ability to keep an animal, do not get into this in the first place. If you have no intention of learning from the start, take up something else. Horses have no place in the ego of mankind, and do not exist solely for our pleasure.

I suggest that your child take lessons on at least 3 horses before you even think of buying one. This allows the child to get a feel of what different horses are like, so that they are better able to judge the right horse for their own when they finally buy one. They should have had enough lessons to become comfortable with each horse, and enough time in to gain confidence.

Your child’s age is another factor. I rode my own pony Dusty at the age of 4, but looking back on it one could have called it child abuse. I was bitten and bucked off daily. I either landed too many times on my head, or this way of life was for me and nothing was getting in the way. I believe a child will know when they want to learn. Size and age does not matter (no younger than 4 please) but it’s even more important that you find the right horse or pony for a younger enthusiast. Dusty may not have been the best example, but was small enough to not scare me during the rough moments (about every two minutes).

Long Term Considerations

Another thing a parent has to consider are restrictions: does the child or YOU have the time to put into this: are you as a parent able to help out: can you afford it: can you go the distance when the child wants to progress with this animal in the future (shows, clinics, lessons)? Horses are time consuming and not for those who like to get out on Sunday. They can really eat up time when they are sick or injured. Your weekends are given over to the horse. Life can change also, leaving Fluffys life with you in the balance.

The commitment to horses is enormous, and buying the animal is often the easy part. Most kids grow out of Fluffy in a few years, and you either end up owning 2 horses or Fluffy gets sold. It’s not always easy to sell horses, taking weeks or months to find the right home. But it’s all part of the experience, and as a child, I learned to absorb the pain of my favorite horses passing on, and being sold.

This is yet another way that horses teach us. Being sheltered from the natural movement of life just means you will have to go through the lesson later. What you resist, persists. I am so grateful I had the chance to understand these things early. I had more time to move through the process.

If all that information helps you, and you’ve now gone through this ‘discovery’ period, it’s time to find the right horse.

The Mature Rider’s Guide to Horse Ownership

Most mature riders have ridden in the past at some point. I commend anyone who takes on this challenge without prior experience. You have my full respect.

As I said above, horses come with a level of responsibility you won’t find in any other sport or pet ownership, so if you glanced through the youth/parent section, go back and read it thoroughly. As adults, we need to evaluate the same things that parents are asked to: time, ability, finances, available stables and long term ownership.

As adults, we have different reasons to own horses than children do. Perhaps it was a dream from youth, or the desire to return to a more natural way of living (farms/land ownership). Horses can add to our years with an enjoyment you won’t understand until you live the experience. There is no money in the world that can buy the enjoyment a good horse can give.

We don’t often buy show horses as adults. We often spend our lives in business, competing for jobs and salaries, fighting our way up the ladder, and the last thing we want from our experience with horses is more of the same. The pleasure horse is more the choice of later years. Unlike children, we usually don’t have to work at a barn or take lessons before we know we want to do this. Adults have pondered the idea for years. Many of us have the income and means to pursue the dream. From here on it’s full steam ahead to find one.

Looking for a horse now requires a bit more time. Quality horses with the level of training to be safe can also cost a bit more, but here’s where the show horse comes in. Older show horses often have good training on them, and have been exposed to many distractions and spooky threats. Often, people move on to newer younger animals, and the old show horse gets the back pasture, or worse, left in isolation. While they may cost a bit more they can become loyal companions and reliable trail buddies.

Always try out a horse you’re interested in at least three or more times. Show up at the horse’s barn unexpectedly and see how the animal lives when you’re not there. Ride the horse in an enclosed area (arena, ring) and out on a trail or roadway. If the owner balks at this, it’s likely the horse is incapable of being safe in these places. Watch others ride the horse. We will cover more of this in future articles in this series.

What’s Next in Horse Purchasing?

As a parent, by now you will have come to a decision about how your child is going to learn. Maybe you have gone through the lesson circuits and the child is ready for ownership.

As an adult, you are hot on the trail of horse hunting, and have found a potential horse or so. Next comes the decision: which horse is going to be an enjoyable experience and lifelong partner?

In the next chapter, we will look at the difference between ponies and horses: pros and cons. Which is right for your child.

Author: April Reeves
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Latest trends in mobile phone

Buying a new horse is never an easy task, partly because there are always myriad options from which to choose. You might have narrowed your specifics considerably, but there will always be more horses on the market than you have time to see.

Strategy is important, whether you’re buying horses for competition or pleasure. You’ll have different criteria if you’re looking for a child versus an adult, just like the experience and abilities of the rider will make an enormous difference. So what is the right strategy for buying horses?

1- Never Buy the First Horse You See

I know all about love at first sight. It happened to me when I was a senior in high school, and the horse’s name was Bella. She was the most beautiful thing I’d ever seen: perfect combination, wide-set eyes, a gently-sloping forehead. Riding her was like sitting on a cloud, and I knew I had to have her.

It worked out all right with Bella, but this isn’t always the case. If you’re in the market for buying horses, make sure you see as many of them as possible. You can always go back and see if that first horse is still available, and most horses don’t leave the market that quickly anyway.

I always tell my clients to look at ten horses or more before making a decision. This will give you an idea for what the market has to offer and will delay your decision until you can think it over. You might discover that the horse you really want has some obscure problem that you won’t want to deal with.

2- Shop Locally

If you’re buying horses that currently live halfway across the world, you have quite a bit of traveling in your future. It is never a good idea to buy horses sight-unseen, and most of us don’t have time to go traipsing from city to city in search of the perfect animal.

Unless you have very specific criteria for an Olympic-level horse, you can find a suitable animal practically in your own backyard. Depending on where you live, you might be able to limit your search to a 100-mile radius with no problem.

You’ll also find that buying horses locally means there is less chance of running into a scam. People are far more wary of ripping off customers who live right around the corner.

3- Order a Drug Test

You might be the most honest person in the world, but everyone is not so scrupulous. Some horse breeders will drug their horses before showing them so they are calm and pliable. This means a serious shock when you take the horse home and wind up in the dirt. Run a drug test and have the horse vetted by a qualified veterinarian before you write that check.

4- Take the Horse Home

Buying horses, as mentioned above, can be a nasty business. If you really want to protect yourself, insist on a trial run with the horse before your purchase is solidified. Pay for the horse and take him home for a week with the option to sell him back if he doesn’t work out. This gives you a chance to try him out on your home turf with no pressure.

This is particularly useful when buying school horses for a lesson program. Since school horses must possess a very specific set of qualities, a trial run reduces the chances of buying a dud. Just make sure you are clear in the paperwork that you have the option for a full refund if the horse isn’t what you thought.

5- Grow Slowly

If you run a horse business, you’ll be buying horses left and right. Just don’t get too far ahead of yourself. Your equine inventory is your biggest asset as a horse business owner. Whether you’re breeding horses or teaching lessons, a great portion of your income rests in the hands of those animals. Making quick purchases all at once is a mistake.

The same is true if you are a serious competitor hoping to amass a stable of performance horses. Your biggest asset in the show ring is diversity in your animals. Buying several horses all at once doesn’t give you a chance to learn each horse’s personality before choosing the next one.

6- Order X-rays

Depending on where you live, a typical vet check for buying horses might not include thorough X-rays. An X-ray of the horse’s navicular bone, for example, will illustrate whether or not the horse has experienced significant navicular changes that might result in future lameness.

In addition to the X-rays and the aforementioned drug screen, your veterinarian should examine the horse’s:

• Overall health
• Medical history
• Hooves
• Teeth and gums
• Coat, mane and tail
• Dietary health

When buying horses, your veterinarian’s recommendation is only a jumping-off point. You might realize that you can live with your horse’s poor dietary habits or his navicular changes, but at least you know about them. And health discoveries can become a bargaining chip in the purchase of a horse.

7- Ride the Horse

You would think this would be a given, but I can’t tell you how many times I hear of someone buying horses without actually riding them first. This is a huge mistake, not only because you won’t know what you are getting.

All horses move differently and respond to different commands. You won’t know if the horse is compatible with your training, experience and abilities unless you actually sit on his back. Riding horses before buying them should be a priority, no matter what the owner says.

8- Ride the Horse in Your Discipline

Let’s say that you are a three-day eventer. Before buying horses, you need to try them out in dressage, stadium jumping and cross-country before writing that check. Failing to try the horse out in your specific discipline might cause you to make a mistake. Maybe he’s great in the dressage ring, but refuses every jump you point him at.

9- Buy From Someone You Trust

Why do you have to resort to buying horses over the Internet? Or through classified ads in Canada? You don’t realize how many people you know until you start going through their names-your friend knows someone who knows someone who owns a barn, and they have hundreds of horses for sale.

It’s that simple. You might want to think about buying horses at the farm where you take riding lessons or from someone your trainer has done business with in the past. Buying from someone you know (or someone you’ve met through a personal grapevine) is the safest way to go about buying horses.

10- Bring a Trainer

Unless you are a professional horseman yourself, you shouldn’t even think of buying horses without a trainer present. He or she will look out for your best interests and will be able to spot obscure details that you never would have noticed. Regardless of how independent you are, a trainer is essential through this process.

People will always making mistakes when buying horses, but you can eliminate the majority of them by having a plan before you start looking. Write out your criteria and decide exactly what you want before you start calling numbers from the classified ads.

Author: Laura Jane Thompson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Latest trends in mobile phone

If you are interested in learning more about horses for beginners or are looking for your first horse, then this article is for you. This article discusses the types of things you should look for when looking for a beginners horse.

Time dedication

Horses require a lot of maintenance. If you think you can just turn your horse out to grass in a field and not worry about it, you are wrong. Horses need to have their feet trimmed and may need shoeing depending on the amount of work they do. Like people, they need to have exercise, or they can get out of shape and grow fat. Some horses can eat so much that that they founder, which means their feet hurt so much they are unable to walk. Horses that have a tendency to gain weight should wear a grazing muzzle when turned out to grass, to prevent overeating. Ponies are especially prone to founder. Horses need to be checked every day to make sure they are not sick or injured. If you board your horse at a boarding facility, your horse is usually checked each day, which helps if you can’t always be there to do it yourself.

Your Ability

The horse’s amount of training and your ability are a big consideration when looking for a horse for beginners. If you have no riding experience, it is best to get a well trained quiet horse. These horses are sometimes called schoolmasters. This means they know their job. They are good horses for beginners to learn on, especially if you find one that is very forgiving. A horse with this type of temperament is easy going and doesn’t get upset when beginners do things wrong.

Your Finances

There are a wide range of prices related to horses. Fancy, flashy show horses can cost thousands of dollars, whereas horses that are less fancy can be more moderately priced. The amount of training a horse has can also affect its price. For example, if a horse is young and has a little bit of training, it will not cost a lot. Unfortunately, horses with little training are not good beginners horses. A horse that is between 6 – 8 years old and has good training is usually more expensive. These horses are in their prime. A horse that is over the age of 10 or 12 years old usually is well trained, but health and the condition of the horse’s joints is a consideration. It is not uncommon for older horses to have arthritis. Older horses are usually great beginner horses, but they may have more associated vet expenses due to their age.

Choosing Your Horse

It is advantageous to have someone experienced go with you when you are choosing your first horse. It is best if you have a trainer, who will not only give you lessons after you buy a horse, but help you choose a horse that will be well suited to you. Before buying a horse, you should also have it examined by an equine veterinarian. This is an very important step that you don’t want to skip! The cost of the vet check will depend on how thorough the examination is and how many tests you have done. Your vet can tell you what your options are, but it is always a good idea to get x-rays of the horses legs and joints. It is not uncommon to find something wrong with just about any horse during a vet check, but it is up to you to decide what you are willing to live with. For example, you may not care that a horse has arthritis in his hocks and cannot jump, if you are only going to use it for trail riding.

Buying vs. Leasing

You don’t always have to buy a horse. You also have the option of leasing one. There are a lot of different lease arrangements available including half leases and free leases. With a free lease, you don’t have to pay the owner to use the horse. In this arrangement you are responsible for the horse’s care and living arrangements. With a half lease you may use the horse a few days a week, while the owner or someone else uses the horse the other part of the week. If you do decide to a lease a horse, make sure you have a written agreement, so you know who is responsible for all of the expenses related to the horse, like vet or farrier (blacksmith) bills.

As you can see, there is a lot to consider when getting your first horse. Before you jump into a purchase or a lease arrangement, make sure you do a lot of research first, so you get a horse that is well suited to your individual needs.

Author: Eileen Childs
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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