Posts Tagged ‘farrier’

If you already have an entrance into the joys and skills of horseback riding, the thought of owning your own horse has surely crossed your mind by now. Many people say horses are addictive, and after they get into your blood, it’s impossible to get them out. Owning a horse, however, is a serious step to take, and if you aren’t ready, I hope you will know it by the end of this article, and have the wisdom to forebear owning a horse for which you aren’t ready.

You’ve probably already come up with your own list of advantages of horse ownership. You can ride when you wish, and the entire well-being of your horse is in your hands. The riding and the pride of ownership, however, is the easy part. A horse is a much greater responsibility than a cat or a tank of fish.

Owning a horse is still expensive to most people, and the cost of buying the animal is only the first expense. Your yearly tab will include the cost of food, a farrier to shoe or trim your horse’s hooves, the vet, and the riding equipment. Depending, however, on your home surroundings, you may find it will either cost extra or save some money to keep your horse at boarding stable for a monthly fee.

The costs involved in owning a horse would be halved if only it were a matter of a cash outlay. In fact, it also requires a significant dedication of time and effort spent with your animal.

If you will be stabling your horse, you’re the one feeding, grooming, and cleaning the stall. The later task will be absolutely essential to a healthy, not to mention happy family members and neighbors. Your horse will depend on you for every necessity including its food, water, companionship, and, of course, exercise. It’s inevitable, then, that you make your horse a priority in your new life. You may have to forgo some of those invitations to parties and hanging with friends as you had in the past. Kicking back after work may not happen as quickly with an animal that’s waited for your company all day. The weather might be unpleasant for days on end, but you will still need to exercise your horse. When it’s time for vacation, you’ll have to arrange for a horse sitter while you are away. The space on which your horse boards will need upkeep from time to time. Bear in mind, too, that most horses have a life span of 30 years or more. For the duration of years left of your horse’s life, you will be the one to feed, water, care and exercise him most everyday.

Before you say yes to owning a horse, think long and hard about whether you really want to take all this on. A horse is a wonderful animal to add to your life, but it is a large animal with a range of specific, often daily needs. I would not want anyone to have to give up the pleasure of horseback riding. You may already be aware of some of the alternatives to ownership including horse sharing, horse loaning, or horse leasing. Read through these words several times. Then, if you can, come up with your own list of reasons a horse of your own would be so worth the added financial and personal responsibilities.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

If you already own a Bunn, always use Bunn coffee filters to prevent overflow and to remove all chances of a bitter or papery taste in your coffee.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Do you worry every time you see your horse eating green grass? Do you include checking digital pulses in your daily routine? Do you have nightmares about the only farrier who knows how to trim your horse moving to another state? The list could go on and on in the life of the owner of a horse affected with chronic laminitis. Even with good holistic treatment, relapses can and do happen. In this article I would like to address what conditions may bring a horse from health to chronic disease, and what it takes to reverse the process. These conditions apply to all horses with chronic disease and not just those with laminitis.

Basic Constitutional Makeup
Animals are born with a basic constitutional make-up which determines their overall strength and vitality. This constitution is inherited from the parents and not easily influenced after birth. The best way to produce horses with strong constitutions is to breed only healthy, strong, emotionally stable individuals. Unfortunately, this is not usually what breeding animals are selected for. So, from the very beginning, most horses have some level of weakness in their constitutions. Where and when these weaknesses will surface depends on the way the horse is managed. If a horse grows up under natural conditions with minimal stress, then symptoms may not appear until late in life. If, however, the horse is brought out of his natural environment and put under stress, chronic disease symptoms can appear much earlier. Some other triggers of chronic disease, such as horse laminitis, include drugs, vaccinations and inadequate or inappropriate nutrition.

In my experience, homeopathy is the only healing modality strong enough to permanently change an animal’s constitution. Classical homeopathy addresses underlying constitutional weaknesses and imbalances. Other management tools, such as diet, housing, hoof care, chiropractic care, and exercise, can support the healing process for chronic horse laminitis.

Let’s assume your horse has just come through an episode of laminitis. He is currently walking well and his hooves are growing out nicely. What you want to be watching for are other subtle signs of chronic disease which could indicate that additional treatment is needed. These would include symptoms such as poor hair coat, eye discharge, change in temperament, stiffness, sensitivity to hot or cold weather or weather changes. Horse laminitis is often just one symptom of chronic disease.

If your horse is really free of chronic disease, you should be able to decrease supplements down to maintenance levels. If you continue to need therapeutic levels of supplements or many different supplements, then more work needs to be done on a constitutional level. A healthy horse showing no sign of chronic disease can also handle reasonable amounts of fresh grass and grains in the diet.

It is not unusual for chronic horse laminitis cases to maintain a low-level digital pulse. This indicates some continued inflammation associated with a continued healing response. If the pulse becomes strong or is associated with increased lameness, it could indicate a problem.

Managing Chronic Horse Laminitis Cases
If your horse is doing very well overall, I believe a good management plan would include the following elements.

Diet for Horse Laminitis
The best diet is simple, low in carbohydrates, and high in fiber Small amounts of equine senior feed is acceptable for some laminitic horses, while others do well on a small amount (8 ounces) of oats or barley. At the same time, some laminitic horses can not tolerate any grains. A probiotic/enzyme supplement like FasTrack or Simplexity Spectrabiotic supports the digestive function and limits the production of endotoxins. Simplexity animal algae provides a source of food-based vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Small doses of antioxidants such as Q10 may be indicated. You should not need to give more than 60-120 mg a day of a good quality Q10 product like those produced by Simplexity, Nutramax Comal, or Thorne brands. Generic brands of Q10 may not be active.

Hoof Care for Horse Laminitis
I prefer to keep laminitic horses barefoot as long as possible. They must be trimmed regularly. If their toes are allowed to grow long or their heels allowed to get too high, then the normal mechanism of the hoof is impaired. Overly correcting angles on overdue hooves creates unnecessary discomfort for the horse and sets back his effort to establish new laminar attachments. Don’t expect to be back riding too quickly. It takes close to a year to grow a new hoof.

Turn-Out Schedules for Horse Laminitis
Turn-out on lush grass should be approached cautiously. Many horse laminitis cases have hormone imbalances that affect their sugar metabolism. Fast-growing, lush grass is high in sugar. As your horse gets healthier he will be able to tolerate fresh grass. I suggest gradually increasing exposure to grass over several weeks and monitoring digital pulses. It is also best to avoid hay that has been heavily fertilized.

Drugs and Vaccinations and Horse Laminitis
It is best to avoid drugs and vaccinations in horses with a history of laminitis. If drugs or vaccines must be given, then it is important to watch the horse closely to determine if any chronic disease has been triggered.

A Final Note About Horse Laminitis
In closing, I want to say that cure is always my desired outcome with chronic horse laminitis cases. This would look like complete return to full function without need for continued treatments or expensive management practices. Sometimes it is simply not possible, especially with advanced pathology such as pituitary tumors or severe bone damage. With these cases, palliation with remedies, special hoof care and high levels of antioxidant nutritional or herbal supplements may be needed. Most cases, however, can be cured with good homeopathic prescribing and proper management. The challenge is staying alert to shifting symptom patterns and resisting the temptation to palliate with large doses of herbs or supplements. I know I have many cases I have brought through crises but not totally cured. In my experience, chronic horse laminitis cases are perhaps the most difficult to work with and they can be the most rewarding.

Madalyn Ward, DVM, is a recognized author and veterinarian in the field of holistic horse keeping. For free tips on horse health, horse personality types, and horse nutrition, plus one-stop shopping on holistic horse products, visit http://www.BuyHolisticHorse.com

Author: Madalyn Ward, DVM
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Ah, the perennial question. To shoe or not to shoe. Deciding whether to keep your horse barefoot or shod–and if so how many shoes to put on him–can be confusing indeed. How do you decide?

Well, you can make a seemingly difficult process relatively easy by considering your horse and the environment in which he lives. Follow up with a quick chat with your farrier, and you should have the answers to your shoeing questions as fast as you can say, well, “horseshoe!.”

The KISS (keep it simple, stupid) method works well deciding whether to shoe your horse or let him go barefoot. Start by asking yourself four questions.

1. What is the quality of my horse’s feet?

2. What kind of work is my horse doing, and how often?

3. What kind of footing is my horse living and working on?

4. Does my horse have any lameness or hoof issues that might affect my decision?

Let’s start by answering the first question: What is the quality of your horse’s feet? If you are among the lucky few your horse has good, solid feet you barely have to give a second thought to. If your horse has good feet, you probably know it. You haven’t had to deal with any foot problems to speak of, and your farrier has good things to say. Feet that fall into the above category have solid heels, a thick wall without flares, a cup to the sole, and well-formed frogs that are free of disease. They are usually relatively even in the front and back. Feet like these hold a shoe well but are also very stable when the shoe comes off.

Okay, let’s say your horse has good feet. Shoes, or no shoes?

Before you decide, you’ll have to answer questions 2 and 3.

If your horse is doing very little work and lives and works on nice, soft, non-abrasive footing, then barefoot is the way to go. However, if your horse lives and rides on rougher footing, or is being worked hard, then you are most likely going to want your horse shod. There’s a saying that horse people use when deciding whether or not to shoe. It goes, “If the hoof will stand the abuse of use, then don’t shoe it. But if it will not stand the abuse, you have to shoe it.”

Why go barefoot? Going barefoot enhances the overall health of the feet. The hoof wall thickens, the sole depth increases, and the heels expand. There is also increased circulation, movement, and expansion capability. A horse who is not working for some months out of the year–let’s say the winter months–will benefit by having his shoes pulled during that period of rest.

Of course, there are many good reasons to shoe as well. Many horses can’t go barefoot because the hoof breaks down faster than it can be replaced. Horses with foot issues, or horses that are in moderate to heavy work year-round, should be shod year-round. Horses with navicular disease should not go barefoot, nor should severely foundered horses. If your horse has splits or cracks wait until the cracks are gone before you have your horse go barefoot. Large breeds with small hooves, like the Quarter Horse, usually can’t go without shoes. Nor can Thoroughbreds with paper-thin soles.

In the end, how do you know if going barefoot is working well or causing problems? Easy. A horse who adapts well to going barefoot will seem just as he did with shoes.

With a good look at your horse and his environment, you can decide whether to let you horse go barefoot, or whether he needs shoes. Remember, in the end it is the horse himself who lets you know what works best for him. Pay attention!

Ron Petracek – Raised in southern Idaho, Ron loves horses and the outdoors. If you would like to join in and learn from the vast resources at our equine forum please visit http://www.horsechitchat.com Looking to buy sell or trade something equine realted? Just visit our huge network and get 12 sites for Free! Click here => http://www.Click4equine.com

Author: Ron Petracek
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Before the ultimate goal of saddle training can begin it is necessary to complete some important groundwork with your horse. You will need to take your horse from trailer or barn to the tack area, tack up, and then you’ll ride. You can’t begin to teach point B if you’ve not first mastered how to get there from point A. The two of you can only act as a team if your horse cooperates with you. This cooperation begins with your ability to approach, catch, and halter him first. After that you can use a halter and rope to lead your horse.

Teaching a horse the boundaries of acceptable behaviour is done with the primary objective of safety in mind. He will need to be taught that his natural tendency to pull against the lead rope, for example, is not allowed. A horse should never be allowed to invade the personal space of whoever is holding the lead rope. Accidents can easily occur if proper consideration to teaching basic safety manners to your horse is not given before moving on to more advanced training. Whilst a good equine insurance policy may cover you for accidents that happen in training, it’s obviously far more preferable not to have to find this out!

The three Ps of horse training – patience, persistence and positive reinforcement – come into play when leading your horse. You have probably already discovered the 3Ps to be effective if you have accomplished haltering.

Ideally you need to begin lead training with your horse when he is still a foal. Basic ground manners should be taught from an early age, before the horse is old enough to worry about saddles and riding. Cooperation will still be required from the young horse during vet or farrier visits, as well as for the various other people he may come into contact with.

If you happen to have the dam – the foal’s mother – present, lead training will be easier as he will naturally copy her behaviours. If not, any horse with which the foal spends time will also work. Young horses naturally learn from the older ones in the herd. For example, you don’t need to teach a horse in the pasture how to graze or go to the water and drink. They watch the other horses to learn these things. If your student is older, you can still use another horse’s example by haltering and leading the other horse first. As you do this you will notice your student watching and paying attention to these events occurring around him.

Start off by leading two horses – the foal and either it’s dam or a more experienced horse – side by side with you in the middle. The safest place for you to stand is to the left of your student’s shoulder, with the older horse to your left. A young horse could suddenly decide to bolt or to kick his heels, so make sure that you don’t wrap the lead rope around your hand or anywhere else that makes you vunerable. The last thing you need at this stage is complicating the process with an injury for which you may need to claim on your horse insurance.

You could also use the pony method if you have a calm horse which the foal will be comfortable following. This is done by simply towing the student horse behind using a longer lead rope. It makes sense in fact to teach the lead in this way, as it’s natural for a young horse to follow an elders lead.

If you don’t have the luxury of having other horses close by from which your student can learn, you will need to rely heavily on your skills of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement. Don’t be discouraged if it takes longer than you would like for your horse to understand what it is that’s expected of him.

After satisfactory progress, it’s time to try it alone. Again, standing to the left of your young horse’s shoulder and with both of you looking straight ahead, gently walk forward and as you step out, tug very gently forward, then release any pressure on the rope as soon as the horse makes any motion to go forward. Understanding that release is a reward to your horse is a valuable tip used by professional trainers. It tells your horse he’s doing something right.

When he can successfully walk with you in straight lines, try a slight left turn whist maintaining the space bubble. If he crowds you, use your right hand to push him out away from you and hold your arm out to the appropriate distance. Then try turning to the right with the same safety distance between the two of you, still using your right hand to guide him into the correct zone. You will need to reward him by releasing the pressure on the lead rope each time he steps in the right direction.

A large amount of patience is required to successfully complete lead training with your horse. Big improvements will soon be made if you can just stick with it. Work every day if possible for short periods and you’ll be pleased with the results; then you will be moving closer to the time when you can saddle up and begin riding.

AFI Horse Insurance is proud to announce the launch of their brand new range of horse insurance and rider only insurance policies which can be tailor-made to suit the needs of you and your horse. Why not give them a call now on 0844 57 32 100 for a quote – their team of equestrian experts will be only too happy to help.

Author: Stephanie Andrew
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Spending quality time with your horse is important in allowing a natural bond to develop, as well as allowing you to learn your horses responses and reactions to different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A horse that is calm and responsive is generally happy. They will keep their head lowered, and have soft eyes and a relaxed jaw. By not invading your personal space your horse is showing affection by seeking your love and respect; this is a sign of a happy horse. A horse is not showing he is bored by yawning – rather this is a sign of relaxation and calm. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. Allow the horse time to settle himself slowly in order to avoid the onset of “flight” mode and further stress.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. Pay close attention to your horse’s eyes, teeth, shoes and hooves and inspect his droppings regularly. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. Ensure you have made appointments with your equine vet for the administration of vaccinations and worming treatments. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. Vaccinations for encephalitis, rhinoneumonitis and influenza are essential for a healthy horse. Tetanus and rabies are also advisable, but not essential. A negative Coggins test for equine infectious anaemia (EIA) may need to be shown if you regularly use hired trailers for horse events – this is a serious incurable equine virus.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. When your horse’s feet are allowed to get long and unbalanced, it is inevitably uncomfortable and will in time affect the horse’s mood and performance. Your farrier will need to trim your horse’s hooves every six weeks or so.

During wet and cold weather you should provide a blanket or coat for your horse, and in the summer he will need a fly-protective sheet. You may wish to use a horse cooler rug after exercise to help your horse calm and cool down. Drinking water directly after exercise could put a horse’s body into shock. Normal body temperature needs to be regained after exercise and before feeding your horse. Leave it for an hour after meals before exercising your horse.

Horses need to have a purpose, whether it is riding, showing, therapy, carriages or dray. They love to feel useful. It is important for a horse’s sense of purpose and focus that he receives regular praise – especially when young – for performing simple tasks such as simply standing still or in the right place. Introducing new experiences to your horse will help his confidence and satisfy his inherent curiosity.

A horse will be at its happiest when given the very best in love and care that it is possible to give. Before even purchasing a horse you need to be aware of the responsibility you have as a horse owner to provide the best in health care and welfare. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. The rewards to you for providing the very best for your horse are priceless, as they will give love back to you a thousand times over.

Spending quality time with your horse is important in allowing a natural bond to develop, as well as allowing you to learn your horses responses and reactions to different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A happy horse will generally appear calm and be responsive to you. He will keep a low head, relaxed jaw and have soft eyes. Your horse will both show and seek affection and will not invade your personal space – these are signs of a happy horse. Surprisingly, yawning is a sign not of boredom but of relaxation and calm. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. Allow the horse time to settle himself slowly in order to avoid the onset of “flight” mode and further stress.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. It is advisable to check your horse’s teeth, eyes, hooves, shoes and droppings frequently. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. It is also important that your vet has regular worming and vaccination appointments set with you. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. Horses should always be vaccinated for encephalitis, influenza and rhinoneumonitis. Also advisable while not necessarily essential would be vaccinations against tetanus and rabies. Regular users of trailers at show and equestrian events may need to show a negative Coggins test for presence of the incurable virus EIA or equine infectious anaemia.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. A horse’s mood and performance will be adversely affected if his hooves are allowed to get too long as this will cause discomfort and imbalance. The farrier should trim hooves every six to eight weeks or more often if needed.

During wet and cold weather you should provide a blanket or coat for your horse, and in the summer he will need a fly-protective sheet. You may wish to use a horse cooler rug after exercise to help your horse calm and cool down. While it may seem logical to give your horse a drink after exercise, this could in fact put his body into shock. Normal body temperature needs to be regained after exercise and before feeding your horse. Do not exercise your horse for at least an hour after he has finished eating.

Horses are happiest when they know that they have a purpose – this could be showing, jumping or therapy, for example. Horses glory in feeling worthwhile. It is important that your horse has a focus, especially when young and not broken in; a simple praise when they stand still or in the correct place makes them feel that everything is ok. Introducing new experiences to your horse will help his confidence and satisfy his inherent curiosity.

Horses are wonderful creatures that deserve all the love and care you can give. You have a responsibility as a horse owner to provide the very best in care and welfare. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. A horse will show you vast amounts of love in return for the simple effort of attention and care for his well-being.

Nicole asked:

I know with partial and full leases you pay X amount of dollars for board, but usually with a partial the vet and farrier is taken care of by the owner, probably not with a full lease…but what does free care lease mean? Thanks for any info!