Posts Tagged ‘Eyes And Ears’

The impression most people have is that you need to control a horses’ head in order to control them properly. This is why many trainers show a horse how to stop and start through the use of a lead rope or bridle. But what can you do if you don’t have these supplies? What method can you use to control the horse? If you have spent time chasing a horse around a pasture then you have likely asked yourself these questions.

People can learn to control the horse’s mind through the process of natural horse training. If you control a horses mind you won’t lose control, no matter what situation you are faced with. Natural horse training is a unique method that needs to be done properly in order to ensure success.

The process of training doesn’t use any form of punishment or obedience, but uses calm compliance. As a trainer, you need self-control and discipline to get your horse to willing follow your lead all the time. To achieve this, natural horse training focuses on developing a pattern and establishing a feeling of safety and comfort for the horse. By this description, natural horse training seems easy when in reality it is a very difficult program to learn.

Before you can start this training method, you need to get your horse to pay attention to you. To do this you also need to provide your horse with your full attention. Focus on what your horse is doing and don’t allow distractions during the training session.

Both you and the horse need to be in a position to concentrate and focus. If this is impossible to do for long periods of time, then you should start training in small increments and work up to longer periods. Ideally, you should start with at least ten minutes of training time.

In addition to paying attention to your horse, you also want to consider the feedback they are providing. Are the eyes and ears signaling anything? What is the horse’s breathing pattern? Are their reactions similar to the last time you worked with them? By paying attention to these things you will be able to help the horse pay attention to you. Find a trigger that gets your horse to do what you want them to do willingly and then use this continually.

Rhythm and relaxation are key when it comes to natural horse training. Your movements as you approach the horse should be rhythmic. Be relaxed when approaching the horse or stall. Your breathing plays a vital role and should be carefully monitored. Horses are keen to your actions and they will sense if you are tense. If something unusual or unplanned happens this relaxation and rhythm is very important.

After mastering these two simple key features then you can advance in natural horse training. Although don’t be disappointed if things are perfect in the first day or week. Often times it can take several months before horses learn a non-predatory system through natural horse training. While it is known as natural horse training this doesn’t mean that it will come naturally for all people.

In order to naturally control your horse you will need to have the appropriate mental self-control. This is where you will need a lot of hard work. Many successful natural horse trainers have years of experience. So if your first try doesn’t result in success then don’t get discouraged. Simply remember to take your time and be patient, this way your horse will be patient with you. When you do this, you can soon see the benefits that natural horse training has to offer.

Sheryll Walker is a horse enthusiast, helping numbers of people to learn secrets of Natural Horse Training.

To discover more helpful tips on Young Horse Training and learn more about Natural Horse Training, visit http://www.HorseTrainingHelp.com.

Get your hand on the “Natural Horsemanship” Videos!

Author: Sheryll Walker
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Gadget reviews

Should I trim around my horse’s eyes and ears?

Clipping the hairs of the horse’s eyes and ears is a controversial topic. There’s no doubt that a horse with close clipped ears and eyes has a pretty face, but those hairs are there for a reason. Before trimming these sensitive areas, decide what you need to clip, and then make sure you have the best tools for the job in your horse grooming supplies.

The ears

The horse’s ears have two kinds of hairs- soft fluffy coat hairs that run along the edges of the ears, and thicker, more wiry hairs that grow inside the ears. The soft external hairs can easily be clipped away, and that’s a good choice to make the horse’s head look neater without losing the protection of the thicker internal hairs. To clip these soft hairs out, a good set of hand clippers are ideal.

To trim the soft external hairs of your horse’s ears, start by folding the ears over in half lengthways and just trimming the long hairs that poke out. Run the trimmers with the lay of the hair to prevent getting rough edges, and simply smooth out the long stray hairs that stick out. This will be enough to give most horses a neat and tidy appearance for all but the most demanding show rings, and still give your horse’s ears the protection they need from flies, dust, and dirt.

The hairs inside are essential to keep out dust and flies. Unless you are showing and the rules demand it, don’t trim inside your horse’s ears. If you absolutely have to, choose the quietest horse clippers you can find. Hold some tissue over the base of the ear to keep the hairs from falling inside the ear, and carefully trim along the surface of the ear. Once done, you will have to protect your horse’s ears yourself – this means keeping your horse’s ears protected from flies and dust, and even from stable bedding which can get inside and cause infection or injury. As the hairs grow back, your horse will be prone to minor infections; you need to make a regular practice of rubbing your horse’s ears with a gentle antibiotic cream to keep them healthy.

The eyes

Like the ears, the eyes have two kinds of hairs. This time though, the long, wiry hairs are less significant. These can be clipped back to tidy up the horse’s face, and most horse’s won’t miss them. The short, soft hairs around the eyes – the horse’s ‘eyelashes’ are essential to protect the horse’s eyes from dust and dirt. Like with the hairs inside the ears, don’t clip these off unless you are absolutely required to for show ring standards.

In any case, clipping around the eyes needs to be done carefully – it’s not something that should ever be done with scissors. A good pair of hand clippers is an essential part of your equine supplies to prevent any risk of injury to the horse’s eyes.

Which clippers should I use?

If your horse is sensitive about its face. choose a battery powered or rechargeable model for quiet operation, and so you don’t have the cord flapping around your horse’s face. If your horse is pretty good about clippers, the benefit of a corded model is that you don’t need to replace batteries or remember to recharge it. You’ll want a model that is light and fits your hand well, because you need to be accurate when clipping around the eyes and ears. Choose one that has a small blade, for a neat and careful finish.

As always, choose clippers from a reliable manufacturer like Wahl, Oster, or Andis. You want to be sure your clippers are safe to use, have a good warranty, and that you can easily get replacement blades – dull blades are dangerous when clipping sensitive areas like eyes and ears!

Here’s some good choices for precision clipping from the top manufacturers:

• Wahl horse clippers. The Wahl Touch Up Animal Trimmer is a great battery operated trimmer for small touch-ups and precision trims. It uses AA batteries, so they’re easy to replace, but it isn’t rechargeable.
• Andis horse clippers. The Andis Lightweight Cordless Horse Trimmer is easy to hold and use. It’s not for big jobs or tough hairs, but it’s perfect for touch-ups and trimming the eyes and ears.
• Oster horse clippers. The Oster Pro Cordless Trimmer is rechargeable, and has a precise blade for carful trimming of sensitive areas. It’s lightweight and comfortable to use, and has one of the narrowest blades available, so you won’t make any mistakes!

If you do trim the hairs of your horse’s face, you will need to take extra precautions to protect him from pests and dust. Keep the eyes and ears clean with a damp sponge, and make sure you apply a gentle insect repellent or use a fly net to protect your horse from flies and other annoying insects. Keep a watchful eye for any infections, injuries, or ingrown hairs, and treat these quickly. And remember to look after your horse clippers – keeping the blades clean and sharp will keep your clippers one of the most useful tools in your horse grooming supplies!

This is the third in a series of five articles on horse grooming. This article is an easy to read, well written guide for trimming around your horses eyes and ears. Not only does it provide specific guidance but also makes recommendations on the right horse grooming supplies for a safe and good looking result.

Author: Marcus Koll
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Beading Necklace

Not everyone needs to clip their horse, and if you don’t enter a show ring very often clipping and trimming may not seem very important. But most horses look better – and even feel better – with a little tidying up around the edges, especially in the winter months. Trimming around your horse’s face and legs will not only make him look good, it can make keeping him healthy and comfortable a lot easier. A good set of trimmers in your horse grooming supplies makes this job easy to do.

Why trim the face?

We’re not talking about a show ring presentation here, where you trim around the eyes and ears. What we’re looking at is trimming around your horse’s jaw and muzzle for comfort as well as looks. The long hairs under your horse’s chin can easily get caught in halter and bridle straps, and most riders can recall catching the muzzle hairs more than once when fitting a bit or a curb chain.

These hairs do serve a purpose. The muzzle hairs help your horse find small bits of food, and the long jaw hairs draw water away from the face in rain and snow. Even so, if you horse has work to do, you can trim these back for comfort and appearance, without losing the natural benefits. Most horses today won’t need the hairs under their jaw, because they aren’t exposed to long periods in wet weather. And for those that are, you can be sure that no horse appreciates the muddy icicles that can form under their chin if those hairs are left untrimmed. You can safely trim back the jaw hairs underneath the jaw, making it easier to fit your bridle, and your horse more comfortable without any pinched hairs. Leaving the hairs longer at the side of the face will carry water away, but if it’s dry, you are showing, or your horse is stabled, you can shorten these up too.

The hairs on the muzzle are a little more important, but again, most horses don’t use them as much as their wild counterparts. You horse most likely is well fed, on good pasture, and doesn’t have to forage for feed. That said, unless your show ring requires you to, don’t clip these hairs completely away. Trimming them back to about half an inch gives your horse the information he needs to sift for tiny grains or the best grass, but keeps these sensitive hairs out of the way of the bit and bridle.

Why trim the feet?

There’s two parts to trimming the feet and legs – around the coronary band at the top of the hoof, and clipping the long hairs at the back of the leg. Trimming around the coronary band isn’t just for appearance, although it will make the hoof look rounder and neater. If you use any hoof preparations, keeping these hairs trimmed will keep them from getting dirty with hoof oils and creams, and also help you make sure you get these treatments right up to the top of the hoof where it grows and where it is needed most.

Clipping the back of the leg is more sensitive. Again, if your horse lives out, or spends a lot of time in wet muddy conditions, these hairs can help carry the water away from the heels, where it can lead to sores and infections. But these hairs can actually cause problems. If your horse has a lot of hair, or ‘feathers’, these can get matted with ice and mud, and if they never get to dry out water can still get trapped around the sensitive areas of the heel.

If you are showing, or your horse is stabled, you can clip these hairs off. This is one of the most effective techniques to make any horse look neater! But if you do, you need to be sure to clean and dry your horse’s heels regularly. If you want to tidy up your horse, but leave some protection, you can take away the long hairs at the back of the cannon, and just leave a small tuft at the fetlock. This leaves a small channel to carry the water away from the heel, but allows you to easily wash and dry the area, and prevents mud and ice from becoming packed into the hairs.

Choosing an everyday trimmer

Every owner of a working horse should consider having a good set of horse trimmers in their horse grooming supplies for trimming the face and legs. For all horse owners, a good set of trimmers is useful – they are invaluable in the first aid kit for cleaning up wounds or tidying up areas under bandages. So even if you aren’t showing, an investment in a good quality set of trimmers is a wise one. Here’s some good choices:

• Wahl horse clippers. The Wahl Pro Rechargeable is an economical and versatile cordless trimmer. Fully charged, it will last for 40 minutes, enough to get around the face and legs. The blades are an easy pop-off design, making replacement simple. Best of all, the low price means you can keep a kit in several sets of horse grooming supplies, or a spare in your first aid kit.
• Oster horse clippers. The Oster Whisper Quiet Trimmer is ideal for nervous horses. It gives a neat finish, there’s a good choice of blades available, and if your horse is likely to fidget when you are trimming around its face or legs, then this is a great choice. However, if you need to get through thick leg feathers or matted hair, you’ll need something more robust.
• Andis horse clippers. The Andis Ruby clippers give you the option of corded or cordless operation. Use the cord for quiet horses, or if you have a lot of horses to do and don’t want to wait for recharging. But if your horse is nervous, you don’t have easy access to an electrical socket, or want to take it with you to shows, then go cordless. It’s light, and comes with several comb attachments so it’s ideal if you are moving form precise trims to more general areas.

Choosing clippers from Wahl, Oster, or Andis is wise. These major supplies or horse clippers will provide you with a good warranty, a safe product, and replacement blades will be easy to get. Most of these suppliers offer a choice of attachments and blades so you can make sure you have the right tools for each job in your horse grooming supplies.

This is the last in a series of five articles on horse grooming. This article has some excellent tips for your horse’s face and feet whether it is on the winter show circuit or not. It provide some great tips, that first and foremost make your horse happy and healthy, but also makes recommendations on the right horse grooming supplies for a great looking coat anytime. Stay tuned for our next series of articles, coming very soon, on keeping your horse proud and standing tall!

Author: Marcus Koll
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Electric Pressure Cooker

There are many different types of horse rugs, with various characteristics and functions. Therefore, the first step to choosing a horse rug is to decide which type you require for your horse. To assist you in this decision, following is a list of the main types of rugs and an explanation of their function:

• Fly Rug. The purpose of this is to protect the horse from flies that bite or sting. They are more commonly and accurately referred to as ‘fly sheets’ rather than ‘fly rugs’, as they are typically a thin plastic sheet or mesh, rather than a fabric rug. One can also get ‘fly masks’, which are made out of the same material and are intended to protect the head (especially the eyes and ears) from flies. As they are a thin sheet they provide little warmth or insulation, although some can provide protection from wind and rain.

• Turnout rugs. These are intended to provide insulation (warmth), to protect horses when they are outside. The amount of warmth depends largely on the amount of insulation, which is typically measured in terms of weight rather than thickness. Consequently, rugs with a moderate amount of insulation are referred to as Lightweight Turnout Rugs, while those intended for maximum warmth are known as Heavy Turnout Rugs. Some turnout rugs are resistant or impervious to rain.

• Coolers. Although they may look like some turnout rugs, their purpose is quite different. They are intended to help the horse dry by ‘wicking’ moisture away from its coat, and at the same time protecting the horse from cooling while wet (a wet horse can quickly become chilled if it is exposed to cold and/or wind while it has a wet coat). They are typically used after exercise, when the weather is cool or windy, and removed once the horse has dried off. These are also known as ‘sweat rugs’.

• Rain sheets. These are typically a thin sheet, with little or no insulation. It is intended to keep the horse dry and can also provide protection from the wind.

• Stable rugs. Also known as ‘stable blankets’, these are similar to turnout rugs in that they provide warming insulation, but are intended to be used when the horse is stabled rather than when it is outside.

• Saddle rugs. A saddle rug (also known as a ‘saddle pad’) is placed under the saddle. It provides cushioning between the saddle and the horse, which protects the horse from the relatively hard saddle and at the same time protects the saddle from being rubbed down by the horse. As the horse tends to sweat under the saddle rug, due to the combination of exercise and the warming insulation provided by the saddle rug, some have built in ‘wicking’ materials to help remove the sweat from the coat.

• Show rugs. A show rug is placed between the saddle and the saddle rug. It is a relatively thin but colourful rug whose main function is look attractive. As it has little or no other practical purpose, it is typically used only during exhibitions or competitions.

• Summer rugs. More commonly known as ‘summer sheets’, these are thin sheets intended to keep dirt off of the horse’s coat (e.g. if it rolls or lies down).

• New Zealand rugs. A turnout rug which is made of waxed canvas. It provides limited warmth but protects well from wind and rain (provided that it is re-waxed as required) and is relatively resistant to damage due to the strong canvas material.

• Riding rugs. It provides protection from the weather but is designed to be worn by the horse when it is being ridden.

Of these various types of horse rugs, perhaps the most commonly used is the turnout rug. The most important factor when choosing this type of rug is to select a rug of the appropriate warmth. Keep in mind that a horse which is too hot can be as uncomfortable as one which is too cold. Furthermore, a rug will discourage the growth of the coat and if too warm will actually result in the horse shedding its coat. Consequently, it is important both that the rug is heavy enough to provide necessary warmth but as the same time is not too warm. The warmth which an individual horse requires will depend on various factors:

• Weather. On a cold winter day, one will need a warmer (heavier) turnout rug than on a cool autumn or spring day. If there is wind, additional protection is required due to the wind chill factor. Likewise, if there is heavy rain, the insulation provided by the horse’s coat and by the rug are both reduced, unless they have a rain resistant cover.

• Health and Age. Horses which are young, strong and healthy have less requirement for a warming rug than ones which are not. On a cold day, it may make sense to put a heavy turnout rug on a sick or old horse, when a younger horse in the same field may be fine with a light turnout rug or no rug at all.

• Thickness of coat. A horse with a thick coat will have less need for a rug than one which has a fine coat, or which has been clipped.

• Exhibiting. A horse with a thick coat generally does not look as attractive (in the eyes of most people) as one which has a thinner coat. Consequently, horses being exhibited usually have a rug which is warm enough to discourage growth of their winter coat. Such coats are relatively heavy for the horse’s circumstances, as they need to replace the insulation provided by the natural winter coat rather than merely supplement it. Likewise, summer sheets and show rugs are for the needs of the exhibitor rather than the horse.

• Number of rugs. The above factors will determine the number of rugs required. For example, a young and healthy horse in a mild climate may not require a rug at all and may be happier without one. In a colder climate, a healthy horse may need only a light rug to be used during the coldest days. An elderly or sick horse may need multiple rugs, depending on the situation (e.g. uninsulated waterproof coat for summer rain, lightweight turnout rug for autumn or spring, and a heavy turnout rug for winter).

Once one has decided on the type of rug plus (in the case of warming rugs) the required weight, one can then look at the materials, quality and features which you may require. Some common items and features to consider are:

• Antibacterial. Some rugs are treated to be antibacterial.

• Breathable. Breathable rugs allow sweat to evaporate and air to access the coat, features which make the rug more comfortable and healthier.

• Coverage. Rugs generally cover the body. Some also have neck covers, either as part of the rug or an a detachable extra.

• Friction points: Rugs can rub, especially if worn by active horses or when the horse is working. The main points affected are typically around the shoulders and chest. To prevent this, some rugs have anti-friction fabric at these points to allow the rug to easily slide and move without rubbing the coat.

• Hooks, loops, buckles, straps and attachments. These should be strong, easily opened and closed, and firmly attached.

• Insulation. The amount of insulation is typically expressed in grams per square meter. For example, a ’300g’ rug has 300 grams of insulation per square meter of rug. The actual rug will weigh more than this, as this is only the weight of the insulation itself and does not include the weight of fabric, straps or buckles. In general, the heavier the weight, the warmer the rug. However, this is not a precise measurement as there are different types of insulation, which vary in terms of quality and effectiveness.

• Rain. A rug may be unsuitable for rain, or be rain resistant, or rain proof.

• Tear Resistant or Rip Stop. Rugs may use fabrics or weaves which are resistant to tearing, and in the event of a tear resist the tear becoming larger.

• Washing. Machine washable rugs are more convenient.

• Wicking. Remove sweat and moisture from the coat.

Once you have decided on the above, your requirements should be well defined in terms of type of rug, amount of warmth required and the various features which you would like. At this point, it is mainly down to quality and price. As in most things, you get what you pay for, so the better quality rugs are correspondingly more expensive. If your budget is limited, or you will only use the rug infrequently, then an inexpensive rug may be appropriate. However, if your horse will be using the rug frequently, it is usually worth investing in a better quality rug which will last. In addition, if your horse is active or frequently rolls, it is important to choose a sturdy rug which can resist this use.

Dr. Doug Stewart is the owner of Horse Care and author of articles such as Horse Rugs.

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Humorous photo captions