Posts Tagged ‘equines’

All the stuff you consume in your regular diet regimen points to to what your body will be like and just how your entire body does respond to ailments. Like humans, “horses are what they eat”. The right food consumption is sometimes more vital than a very good breeding, schooling or training. This feeding approach should go with equines likewise. Together with feeding them the most suitable quantity of feed that their body requires on a regular basis, supplemental vitamins are likewise very critical for them to achieve their ideal success.

One can find lots more nutritious supplements to choose from to buy nowadays. Then again, some are designed, well-balanced and fixed to fulfill the demands of all forms of equines, and several are pricy and very complicated to apply day-to-day.Don’t forget to obtain equine supplement formula that are of the top quality. Rely on and believe in excellent horse vitamin supplements to accomplish the job effortlessly, properly and efficiently.

To perfectly manage the vitamin supplements for your beloved equines, acquire extra in depth information and facts about them before buying. There are several horse nutrition source websites online that were designed to advice you in your pursuit to locating a good fit for your horses. Above all, they should really be placed inside a cool place, at all times by ensuring that the cover is put in tightly trying to keep the supplementations always fresh. Exposure to sunlight can’t be done at all. Secondly, it truly is very imperative to never go over the normal ‘dose’ claimed for almost any type of equine supplement.

A normal consumption as well-advised is safe and most favorable. The quantities of all the healthy ingredients in supplements for horses, are in accordance with advised daily allowances at utmost levels. One can find many incredibly crucial processes whereby horse coat supplements need to be dealt with. There’s a reason why the manufacturers decide to put it there, so you should try to observe them instruction by instruction. Ultimately, never use horse supplements mixed with other dietary supplements. Not simply is this very useless but over the top volumes of certain fundamental nutritional requirements (for example, Selenium) are detrimental to the equine.

Horse vitamin supplements are prepared from pure substances only. Artificial drugs with potential harmful side effects, for instance steroids, corticosteroids, barbiturates or amphetamine ordinarily are not used in supplements for horses. A horse supplement company’s target is to make and manufacture the ideal quality horse coat supplements and supplements for dogs available right now, which aid the health and wellbeing and maintained vitality of your animal. They make certain that their vitamin supplements have ground breaking, exceptional elements in the given levels of every single additive as outlined in their confirmed examination. They are purely completely invested to assisting you in the desire for your canine or horse’s complete health and fitness and maximum overall performance. Supplying your equines well over the suggested can cause harmful adverse reactions and can be detrimental to the horse’s diet program. Natural supplements should not be utilised as an alternative for a proper diet plan. Definitely be sure you stick with the product instructions.

Royal Champion is a horse supplements company that has a lot of tips and advice on how to take care of horses by using premium horse supplement in their daily diet.

Author: Ryan Ready
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Have you ever marveled at how a good, professional horse trainer can get your equine to do all the things he will not do for you. Not only that, but they make it look so easy. It’s maddening. Most professionals don’t spend much time with horse temperament typing so we should we?

Well, even though a good, professional trainer may not have studied Five-Element typing they instinctively read equines and type them. A talented, professional trainer has worked with hundreds if not thousands of different horses. Relationship with individual horses is not so important because the equine understands what he is supposed to do and he gets consistent feedback from the professional trainer.

Amateur Owners and Temperament Typing

You and I, on the other hand, have our few horses to learn from and with. We will make lots of mistakes and without a strong relationship with our horse misunderstandings came escalate quickly to divorce proceedings!

Here are some tips for making up for our mistakes with each horse temperament type so we can stay in the relationship long enough to make progress in training:

The Fire Horse

The Fire horse temperament is all about relationship so spend lots of time grooming and hanging out with him. Never speak harsh words to a Fire horse even when they are behaving incorrectly. Keep asking for the desired behavior and praise even slight efforts.

The Earth Horse

The Earth horse temperament is all about food. He lacks ambition so you may need to get strong in your demands for extra effort. Once your horse has put forth some energy to do what you ask let him rest and take him to graze. He will look forward to this reward.

The Metal Horse

The Metal horse temperament will not work for someone he does not respect. You gain his respect by breaking down his lessons into steps he can master before moving on to the next lesson. The Metal horse learns slowly but never forgets something once it is learned. Use this to build his confidence through repetition. You may get bored but your Metal horse will respect you for staying with him until he is ready to move on.

The Water Horse

The Water horse temperament has to have trust. He will sense the confidence of a good, professional horse trainer but feed off any fear coming from an amateur. Never put your Water horse temperament to a fearful situation unless you have total control and can support him.

An example would be working at home with lots of obstacles and set up “scary” events to teach him to respond rather than react. Building his trust in you in his home area will prepare him for new environments. Go slowly with the Water horse temperament not because they learn slowly but to teach them to learn rather than react.

The Wood Horse

Last but not least, the Wood horse is often the most challenging for the amateur horse trainer. The reason, the Wood horse temperament wants to be challenged. Most amateurs don’t have the skill level to keep the training interesting enough so the Wood horse temperament doesn’t get bored. A bored Wood horse can progress from annoying behavior to downright dangerous. Never fight with this type horse because that is what they want. Instead, redirect their energy and make bad behavior uncomfortable so they choose good behavior themselves.

So, if you are a good, professional horse trainer you can enhance your current skills by learning horse temperament typing. If you are an amateur you can make up for your lack of experience as a horse trainer by building a solid relationship with your horse.

Madalyn Ward, DVM, is a recognized author and veterinarian in the field of holistic horsekeeping. For free tips on horse health, horse personality types, and horse nutrition, plus one-stop shopping on holistic horse products, visit http://www.BuyHolisticHorse.com. Get more horse tips on her blog at http://blog.horseharmony.com.

Author: Madalyn Ward, DVM
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Every little girl and boy who takes horseback riding lessons from me wants his or her own horse. Sometimes their parents are amenable to such an investment, and sometimes they are not, but if you think you might like to buy a beginner horse for your child, it’s important to think this decision through. Too often, I see parents run out and buy the first pretty piece of horseflesh they find, only to discover later that is was the wrong choice.

For one thing, most parents of horse-crazy kids aren’t very knowledgeable about horses in general. They don’t know how to safely shop for horses, and they don’t know what qualities to seek out. Consequently, they come home with a dangerous or ill-mannered or incapable horse that send their child home in tears every night. To avoid this, it is important to follow a few guidelines for selecting an appropriate beginner horse.

1- Get Advice

Reading this article is a great first step toward choosing the best beginner horse for your child, but you need more than words on paper if you don’t know the first thing about equines. A trainer, instructor or equine professional can make your buying experience much more pleasant, and you’re far more likely to choose an appropriate animal. In most cases, the trainer at your barn will be more than happy to assist you, but may charge a commission fee for their time.

Even if you don’t know a qualified individual, however, there is guaranteed to be someone in your city who knows about horses. Look through the Yellow Pages under “Riding Academies” or “Stables” to find equestrian facilities near you, then contact the owner to see if he or she can help. Again, you might have to pay a small commission, but it’s worth it in the long run.

2- Buy Close to Home

It is sometimes beneficial for an experienced equestrian to look for horses across the country, or even on the other side of the world. When you’re buying a beginner horse for your child, however, look in a small radius, and don’t buy a horse you can’t visit beforehand. Not only will this give you an opportunity to “try out” the horse before purchase, but it is a lot harder to get scammed by someone who lives virtually in your own backyard.

Additionally, you might also try to buy from someone you know, or based on a referral from a friend or family member. Working with people you know and trust will take much of the stress out of buying a horse, and you’re almost guaranteed to get what you asked for. Unfortunately, the scams in this country aren’t limited to credit card fraud and identity theft; they also extend to the equine industry.

3- Ride More than Once

You should never buy a beginner horse for your child without riding it first, but I advise at least two or three rides before you offer up a check on a silver platter. One ride might be stellar, but your child might discover in subsequent rides that the horse is harder to handle than he or she previously thought. Other issues, such as lamenesses or bad habits, can surface after “meeting” the horse several times.

In fact, I recommend putting a down payment on the horse and taking it to your barn for a week to “try out” before paying for it entirely. Most reputable horse dealers are more than happy to accommodate this request, and it simply adds another layer of security to the process. Generally, you’ll need to give the seller at least 50% good-faith deposit before you take the horse from their property, and you’ll need to return the horse in seven days if you don’t intend to buy.

4- Conduct a Vet Check

Just because your trainer says that a beginner horse is the perfect one for your child doesn’t mean that this should be the end of the road. Horses, like people, are susceptible to injuries and illnesses that often don’t materialize for months or years. A thorough examination by a veterinarian will turn up things like navicular changes and parasites. Have your veterinarian conduct this examination (called a vet check) prior to buying the horse.

If you’ve driven far to buy the animal, however, you can always write a check contingent on a clear vet check. This needs to be placed in writing so that you can return the horse if there are any significant health problems uncovered by the veterinarian.

5- Pay Attention to Demeanor

Unscrupulous horse dealers will actually drug a horse before showing it to potential buyers, creating an extremely dangerous situation. When you’re buying a beginner horse for your child, you want an animal that won’t try to hurt anyone, and drugs can make the feistiest, wildest, most unmanageable horse seem like a school pony. Therefore, horses who are overly lethargic or dull-eyed should raise a red flag.

If you think that something “just isn’t right”, don’t buy the horse until you’ve called out a vet. After the vet check, ride the horse again to make sure that he wasn’t drugged the first time you tried him.

Laura Thompson is a freelance writer and equestrian consultant from Houston, Texas. She provides assistance to equestrian professionals who want to enter or who currently work in the equestrian industry, and also conducts clinics and seminars in Texas and surrounding states. Her web site, MICA21.com [http://www.mica21.com], provides not only information about her services, but also free resources for equestrian professionals.

Author: Laura J Thompson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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I love to hear my horse whinny to me. The sound of his satisfied munching is another reward I find in horse ownership. Of all the things we enjoy doing for our horses, feeding can be one of the most emotionally rewarding. Sometimes we can be guilty of “over-kill” when it comes to feeding our horse.

In order to avoid causing damaging imbalances when feeding our horse we need to calculate the nutrients the horse is receiving from his basic feed ration in the first place. Once that is established then a decision to add supplements to his diet can be made. Supplements can be beneficial to our horses if they need them. Overloading nutrients can be harmful when we are feeding our beloved equines and must be avoided.

When feeding our horse we must not overlook the significance of availability of fresh water at all times. Having access to fresh clean water will reduce the chances of impaction colic. This is very important for horses kept mainly on dried forage. The horse will drink more often if he is offered fresh clean water. This will help prevent dehydration in the horse also. In cold weather heated water will encourage horses to keep drinking water. Heaters for water tanks are available commercially that keep the drinking water at a palatable temperature. This will encourage them to drink more water during cooler weather. Often decreased water consumption as the temperatures drop can lead to colic.         

Another consideration if you have more than one horse make sure there is more than one source for water and easily accessible to all of the horses. When feeding more than one horse sometimes horses will bully others. More than one water source can help this situation.

When feeding horses we must not overlook salt. Sodium and chloride (salt) is essential to many bodily functions.  Not naturally present in grasses and grains salt is a vital nutrient that we need to add to our horses’ diet. Horses lose salt when sweating and it is necessary for it to be replaced. A block of salt may be placed in your horses pasture. It will be available to him when he needs it. If the horse has a balanced diet a mineralized salt block will not be necessary when adding salt to his diet.  In the winter additional salt (no more than a tablespoon) to your horse’s food at night will encourage drinking as nighttime temperatures drop. This can aid in preventing colic that sometimes occurs as temperatures become cold outside.

If given an opportunity horses will consume the salt they need. Horses have a natural appetite for it. Sometimes horses kept in stalls will get bored and consume too much salt. There is a solution for this. When feeding such a horse loose salt, an ounce or two may be added to the diet. Table salt may be used if the horse already has a balanced diet. 

As we give our horses food we must make sure our desire to care for them does not conflict with their need to graze and roam. We must make sure we do not create imbalances in their nourishment. After all the time and money we put into our horses we want to enjoy them for many years to come. When we are feeding our horses right we are well on our way to obtain that goal.

For additional information about practical horse management please go to http://wcf-ltd.com/horse/ to learn more about how to care for your horse.

Author: Fran Mullens
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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One of the best ways to get started training a young horse or any horse for that matter is at liberty in the round pen. First-what do we mean by “at liberty”? All that means is that we remove all control and training aids from the horse-so that there’s no halter, bridle, or lead/lunge line. Aside from being inside the round pen, the horse is basically free. A bridle or halter, of course, doesn’t really matter, what’s important here is severing direct control between the handler (you) and the horse.

Why is it that round pen training is so effective when training a young horse?

If done correctly, round pen training allows you to build leadership and trust with your horse in a fundamental way that he naturally understands. And this can be done in an essentially safe environment-something that’s really important to keep in mind. Safety should always be your priority with equines. The less training a horse has, the more control we need to maintain safety. And when training a young horse it turns out a round pen is just what the doctor ordered. When done at liberty, the horse is free to move and work through his fears without feeling panicked or confined-even though in reality the horse is confined, by the virtue of being in a round pen he can move off from a scary stimulus if he chooses to do so. Now nothing is perfect-and there will be occasions when a horse feels panicked in a round pen or even escapes-I’ve seen that happen. But in the vast majority of cases, a round pen will safely confine a horse-while giving him the ability to freely move.

Earlier we mentioned that round pen training is really effective when training a young horse. And in fact its a great tool to use when starting any horse. Let’s see why in more detail.

The first reason is that a round pen produces a setting within which it is pretty easy to establish leadership-a vital step in training a young horse. This is due to the way that horses naturally establish their heirarchy in a herd (wild or otherwise). Every group of horses that lives together has a hierarchical structure and every horse knows his rank. One thing you will see dominant horses doing is making the other horses move around. I once herd a phrase that sums this up: control the feet, control the horse. In the round pen, you mimic this behavior by controlling the movement of your equine in four basic ways:

• You tell him when to move
• You tell him what direction to move
• You tell him how fast to move
• You decide when he can come to a stop

Even better-by working at liberty you’re going to be controlling the movement of your horse using energy and body language. So its all going to seem quite natural to the horse-and he will instinctively see you as his trusted leader. Another aspect of working at liberty is that you are also building communications-another vital step in training a young horse successfully. Your communication skills which you start off in the round pen will carry over to riding-by applying pressure to the appropriate spots on the horse. In the round pen, when working at liberty, you learn to apply pressure with energy and body language. This makes the round pen not just valuable to your animal-it makes it a great training school for you too! If you are able to master communication with your horse using only energy and body language-think about how effective you’ll be when riding and using your reins and legs. You will be able to talk to your horse from the saddle light as can be.

As one specific example, if you want your horse to move out while in the round pen focus your energy and body language on his hip area. At first, you will need a tool to help out-but you should have good success without actually touching the horse as time goes on. Suppose you keep a lead rope with you. You can swing the lead rope in the direction of the hip, without actually striking the horse to ask him to move out. But what you should really be thinking about is focusing your gaze on the top of his hip-and directing energy there. Focus your gaze on the spot where you would actually tap the horse with your crop if you were using that method.

If the horse doesn’t respond, and he may not the first few times, then up the volume. Swing the rope more vigorously, and then let it strike the ground. If the horse still doesn’t move, then at this point direct contact may be necessary. But you will find with practice that less direct contact is required.

Don’t be discouraged if you don;t have complete success at first-nobody becomes a horse whisperer in a day. Keep practicing! With time you will find you need less actual contact with your horses to get them to do what you ask. Round pen training is a great place to start training a young horse or a horse you don’t know, to brush up with an old horse or to just work on your own equine communication skills.

David McMahon is a freelance author who is owned by 3 horses. For more information, please visit Gentle natural horsemanship.

Author: David McMahon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horses are deeply sensitive animals, therefore it is imperative that they have undivided care and attention. It’s not enough to only provide the bare necessities like food, shelter and whatever healthcare your horse insurance policy will cover. Just like humans, they appreciate those little extras to make them feel content.

Horses are herd animals and will enjoy the company of other equines. You should be also seen as part of their herd, ideally as the herd leader. Your horse may give you signs – such as chewing or licking – that he sumbits to your leadership. Only quality time spent with your horse can ensure that the trust and emotional bond between you can develop. When you have created this important bond it will have an overall positive effect on the horse.

Always keep your horse’s stable or stall clean – horses are natuarlly clean animals – with warm deep bedding provided. A deep bed will ease the strain on their legs and joints, and of course, if they wish to lie down, they can in comfort, ensuring that they feel safe and secure.

Mealtimes are important to a horse. You must ensure that you feed them little and often, as they will also graze outside all day. All appropriate foods can be incorporated into your horse’s diet to provide a healthy balance. Grass, hay, and fibre in general is important for your horse’s digestive system. Grain is also superb, but not too much as it can upset the stomach. Ensure a supply of fresh water is available. Wate will help prevent the horse storing hard solid food in it’s gut by allowing fermentation to take place. Regularity of feeding times is important for horses, as they do best when in a routine. Always feed your horse at the same time each day.

Grooming your horse daily will show the horse that they are loved – they will enjoy extra attention from you which grooming brings. Your horse will love you to give him a nice rub, a good brushing and a scratch here and there. You should both enjoy this special part of the day. Grooming your horse will not only keep his coat glossy and smooth, but can also help to keep pests and parasites at bay. Not forgetting the feet – you’ll need to pick your horse’s hooves every daily. They must feel comfortable on their hooves or they will become grumpy, not to mention that failing to take care of your horse’s feet will put him at risk of injury or infection which could cost you a claim on your equine insurance.

The happiness of your horse relies a great deal on the quality and quantity of exercise he is given. Daily exercise is essential for your horse. Exercise should be varied and should include some jumping and cross-country work, for example. Play time is important for horses too. Turn your horse out so he can run free for a while in the paddock. Your horse can then play, either alone or with other equines, and have some quiet time too. You need to ensure that your horse is given sufficient time to relax too – they can demonstrate erratic behaviour if simply put to task all the time.

There are many more tips and advice which can be imparted to ensure the physical and psychological well-being of your horse; here we have covered just five of the most important. For more information and to become part of a horse-lovers’ community on the world-wide web, please visit AFI Horse Insurance where you can read and contribute to our brand-new equine blog.

Horses chewing wood is a common problem, which not only damages stables and fencing, but can also injure the horse. The splinters can get stuck in teeth or injure gums. If they are swallowed, the stomach or intestines may be injured, on they could lead to impaction colic. Therefore, for both the horse and the facilities, one should try to correct this problem promptly.

One first needs to check that the problem is wood chewing and not cribbing. Both activities are similar in that they involve the horse biting and damaging wood, but they are completely different problems. Wood chewing is exactly that; the horse chews on wood (e.g. in its stall or wooden fencing). With cribbing the horse does not chew on the wood but instead grabs it with its front teeth, then arches its neck and sucks in air. If you watch the horse, you can easily see which of the two problems it has, as the two activities are completely different. If you can’t catch the horse in the act, examination of the wood should tell you, as one needs to check if the wood has been nibbled away or simply bitten hard.

The most common cause of wood chewing is boredom. Horses which are left in their boxes most of the day with nothing to do simply do not have enough mental stimulation, so they start chewing on wood to occupy themselves. Another cause is stress or nervousness; just as some people chew their fingernails or pencils when they are stressed, a nervous horse confined to its box with nowhere to direct its nervous energy may start chewing on wood to distract itself. The third possible cause of wood chewing in nutritional deficiencies; if the horse’s food does not contain all the minerals they need they will start to chew on other items (such as wood or earth) in an attempt to obtain the missing minerals.

The first step in fixing the problem is to address the underlying cause. Since it is not always possible to know which of the three possible causes is the problem, the easiest solution is to address all three. Provide the horse with as much pasture time as possible, as this provides mental stimulation and also an outlet for nervous energy. Give it chewy food such as grass and hay, which will occupy it and meet its natural desire to chew better than fast foods such as grain or muesli. Companion horses, exercise and an interesting environment all help. In case the problem is nutritional, ensure that it has good access to a salt lick and a mineral stone. Try to identify anything which may be causing the horse stress (e.g. bullying by another horse) and address the issue.

Taking these steps should improve the situation but may not stop wood chewing completely. Unfortunately, once the habit has been established, simply removing the originating cause will not eliminate the habit. One also needs to address the behaviour as well.

One does this by actively preventing the horse from chewing on wood. Putting a live fence wire on top of fencing rails will prevent chewing there. A metal strip on wood surfaces in the stall (e.g. stable door) will make chewing difficult. One can also use one of the speciality paints which have been developed to taste bad; simply paint these on the wood surfaces to discourage chewing. Note that such paints need to be redone every few weeks since the taste fades and that one should first check that any such paint has been veterinary approved.

One should make sure to address both the cause (e.g. boredom) and the behavior (e.g. with paint). Doing just one or the other is insufficient. If one fixes the cause but not the behavior, the habit is likely to continue, although to a lesser amount. If one prevents the behaviour (e.g. with paint) but does not address the underlying cause, the horse still has a problem and this may well lead to the development of a different behavioral problem.

Before buying or choosing a new horse, it is important to check its health. Although it is impossible to be 100% certain that a horse is completely healthy, there are a number of tests which can identify most potential health risks. Following is a checklist.

The first indication is the general appearance. It should have a shinny, even and flat coat. The body should be well muscled, neither fat nor skinny. When standing, it should spread its weight evenly on all four legs, with each hoof pointing straight ahead. While normal to rest a leg from time to time, it should not be for long periods or always the same leg, as this would indicate an injury or weakness.

Slowly run your hands down the legs, from top to bottom, with careful attention to joints and the lower leg. There should be no bumps, swellings or hot spots. The hoof walls should be even, free of cracks and completely smooth.

Lift a hoof and examine the sole to ensure that there are no marks or indications of previous injury and that it is correctly shaped. Repeat with the other hooves. The angle and tilt of all four hooves should be correct and identical. If the horse is reluctant to lift one of its feet, this may be because it does not want to lift a good leg and put more weight on a bad one. The hooves are perhaps the most important area to examine in terms of horse health, as so many otherwise good horses have problems here.

The gums should be shinny, moist and pink. If one presses on the gums with a finger, they will turn white, but should return to pink within two seconds of removing your finger.

Check the teeth (you may want to use the services of a horse dentist) for spurs, unevenness or excessive wear. Try feeding the horse hay and watch how it eats. It should use both sides of its jaw equally and eat steadily. Dropping hay or leaving hay partly chewed indicates a problem either with the teeth or the jaw joints.

Examine the horse’s droppings. They should consist of firm balls, with a mild and inoffensive odor.

The horse should look happy, alert and interested in what is happening. Its ears should stand up and should move alertly in response to sounds. It should be interested in what is happening around it, but not nervous.

Have someone work the horse in an exercise ring while you watch. They should gradually go through all the gaits (walk, trot and gallop), in both directions. The horse should show easy, smooth strides, with the weight distributed evenly on all four legs.

It should not sweat (except during hot weather) until it has been worked for some time at speed. Its respiration should gradually increase as the gait picks up but it should not breathe hard except at a fast gait. As the gait is reduced, its respiration should quickly reduce. Once the horse stops, its breathing and pulse should quickly return to resting normal. Neither during nor after exercise should the horse shown any sign of discomfort, pain or limping.

One should also ask the current owner about the medical history and ask permission to discuss the horse with its regular vet. Ask to see the inoculation and medical records for the horse. Ask if it has every had any illness, in particular colic or laminitis. Be concerned about any incomplete or evasive answers.