Posts Tagged ‘dressage saddles’

I won’t pretend for a minute to be a saddler but I do know what I like. Being tall I know from experience how difficult it can be to get a good saddle that fits. Here are some pointers about the types of saddles that are available and features of saddles that could make the difference between a comfortable ride and one that puts your safety at risk.

Types of Saddle

Broadly speaking (in the west) there are two types of saddle – the ‘English’ Saddle and ‘Stock’ Saddle, better known as the ‘Western’ saddle.

English saddles are used for different ‘types’ of horse riding all over the world, not just in the UK. There are many styles of saddle with different features for the different types of riding activities such as eventing, dressage, show jumping, hunting, racing, polo and everyday hacking. For example, dressage saddles are designed in such a way to offer excellent support for the rider’s sitting position.

Western Saddles were originally designed for use on horses in cattle ranches – they differ in looks from the padded English saddles which tend to be more flat, by having a very distinctive horn on the front of the saddle which was originally used for roping cattle. The western saddle doesn’t have any padding and is used in conjunction with a saddle blanket.

So the type of activity a rider engages in will determine the saddle(s) they need. Most importantly a correctly fitted saddle for horse and rider is essential to ensure comfort and optimum performance. General purpose saddles are available to cover most riding activities except racing but if you intend specialising or competing at a high level it would be advisable to get a specialised saddle accordingly.

Picking the right saddle

The length of the seat and the rider’s leg position will make the difference between a saddle being comfortable or not and it will affect balance and ultimately safety when riding. There are some saddle features to consider and some of these are detailed below but generally speaking the only way to ensure proper fit and comfort is to sit on it and if possible take a ride using it before you buy!

If you have long legs it is going to be more difficult to find saddles that fit you. Firstly, if you’ve a long hip to knee leg length then you will end up having to have a very ‘forward cut’ saddle to accommodate your leg, with short stirrups. The most forward cut saddles are cross-country saddles or event saddles. The degree by which a saddle is forward cut can vary tremendously so again try before you buy.

Saddle Features

The next consideration is down to personal preference – what size and shape blocks and thigh supports are best for you and your chosen discipline. The block is the padding that falls behind the rider’s lower leg, which helps to keep it in place and stabilise the rider and knee. Thigh rolls are the padding on an English saddle that is right under the knee and in front of the thigh that again helps to give the rider more support.

One good feature of quite a few synthetic saddles is that you can adjust the position of the blocks because they are attached by velcro. However, with these adjustable blocks you need to have a second flap rather than single flap over the top to cover the Velcro. It is worth bearing this in mind – you may want to determine whether you want a single or double flap first (see later in this article) before you make your mind up about adjustable blocks.

Most single flap saddles come with thigh rolls. The idea of these is not so they trap your thigh; they shouldn’t rest against your thigh when you sit in the saddle. They are only supposed to come into action if you shift forward against them or if you lean against them when galloping. Thigh rolls do come in varying sizes; smaller ones can be seen on the Momentum saddles or larger ones on saddles from Antares or Devecoux – these tend to be custom-made – at a price.

Many saddles have integrated calf blocks. These are positioned on the back of the flap i.e. behind the calf. Personally I find that if these are under the flap of a double flap saddle the shape is often too softly undulating and the block actually pushes your calf away from the saddle instead of ‘blocking’ it in. As a contrast calf blocks on a single flap saddle very much act as a barrier and you know when your leg hits them.

Now for the single verses double flap debate… having ridden in both types of saddle I prefer single flap saddles although they tend to be more expensive. My reasoning for this is that the blocks on a single flap saddle are on the outside so they are far more defined and therefore give more feel. The reality is that the degree of ‘feel’ through a single flap is greater as you are actually sitting closer to the horse. However, some people prefer double flap saddles for breaking in youngsters for example because with a double flap young horses feel less movement from the rider and are less likely to panic.

Now for something riders often don’t appreciate about close contact saddles. It is important to understand that close contact saddles use foam instead of flocking in the panels so they cannot be adjusted by re-flocking or topping up the flocking as one would normally do from time to time. It is necessary to make adjustments to fit using saddle pads instead, which come in many different types and sizes. The set up at the pommel is also slightly different so that you sit closer to the horse. It makes a difference to your ride so if you get the chance, sit in a non-close contact saddle; then sit in a close contact one so you can assess the difference yourself.

A misconception is that all single flap saddles are close contact and double flap saddles aren’t. This isn’t actually true – you can get single flap saddles that aren’t close contact and double flap saddles that are close contact however they are quite rare… worth a hunt if you feel strongly about it though.

Conclusion

So, to sum up – a saddle fit for the purpose and fitted well with the size and shape features you want will make a significant difference to your (horse and rider) comfort, safety and performance – don’t jeopardize this. Buy good quality saddles and use a saddler that is an expert in their trade.

Debbie works for equiShopping.com, an Equestrian portal based in the UK which operates across Europe – see http://www.equishopping.com/uk/.

The site offers an equestrian only comparison shopping facility for thousands of equestrian products for the horse, rider and stable and equestrian classified ads for horses for sale across Europe and beyond.

For Equestrian retailers equiShopping is an on-line route to market – you can visit the equiShopping Merchant Centre for more information about this.

Author: Debbie Burnett
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Saddles are usually made of wood, with the majority of saddles based around a structure called the tree, and the tree must fit the horse. Forget about cheap saddles. Why?

Because quite literally, you DO get what you pay for if you buy a cheap saddle. And it’s not just that you will be uncomfortable, but it will not make your horse all that happy either, and may actually do him harm. Ok you’ve tried cheap and figured out that isn’t the way to go. You’ve tried expensive and, well, that worked, but holy smokes are the prices ever high. So here are some tips on how to shop for your next saddle.

Saddles can be priced from several hundred dollars to more than $8,500 – specialty or antique saddles can easily range into the tens of thousands. You’re not going to be spending that kind of money, but you DO want to spend enough to get something decent and something that properly fits your horse. You will want to look for value, fit, fit and fit. Yes that’s right, the most important thing about your saddle is that it fits right. Look at it this way, if you had something that was too tight or too big, you would feel very uncomfortable.

Why would you want to saddle your horse with something that doesn’t fit? Before you go hunting, know the kind of saddle you want. Don’t just have a vague idea of what might work, – have in mind a picture of precisely what you want. Then hit the road and start looking for the right fit. The saddle must fit you, the rider. English or western, jumping or cutting, pleasure or gaming, you must be comfortable in the saddle all the time. You don’t want to be thinking about your saddle when you are riding. The right fit makes your saddle seem like a natural extension of your butt. If the saddle doesn’t fit your horse, no matter how great the price, it was too much to pay.

If you’re looking at ready-made saddles, then make sure you have the try it before you buy it option. If they won’t let you try it, don’t bother – after all you don’t need to ride the horse more than a few minutes to determine fit. And if you put a pad under it and handle it carefully, you won’t damage it. If the saddle is custom built, the saddle maker will want measurements of your horse in order to determine the proper tree, skirt lengths, gullet, etc. This is where you will be paying out good money.

Emphasize the good, because what you get will be precisely what you need, and what your horse needs. Having said that, the price must fit your budget. And just because your budget is low does not mean you can’t find a saddle that has a proper fit. It just means spending the time to find it. Try this: if you are ordering a custom built saddle, tell the saddle maker the highest amount you’ll pay, and then let him design to fit the budget.

Saddle makers can be very creative and stay within the budget. Or try buying a used saddle that FITS, and is eye-catching. That is often a better value than a new saddle. Are you into silver? Then only go with sterling because the silver-plated doodads and other imitations fade like crazy and are a waste of money. Just remember the saddle you want needs to FIT. That’s what you need and that’s what you want!

Sonia is a book reviewer, coach and author. Go to: http://dressage.ebooksgain.com for more exciting and interesting information on your passion!

Author: Sonia Dixon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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English saddles differ among themselves in several distinct ways. Primarily, the differences lay in the seat location and the flap shape and flap length. In disciplines like jumping where the rider needs shorter stirrups for extra support, the flap is more forward and shorter to accommodate the bend of the knee. For the same reason, the seat is positioned further back so that the rider is not pushed ahead of the saddle when jumping a fence. Additionally, padding in the seat and knee rolls of a saddle will assist the hunt seat rider, but is not necessary in other English saddles.

Within the discipline of Dressage, the rider sits more upright and with a longer stirrup length than a hunt seat rider because Dressage riders do not jump obstacles. Therefore, the saddle flap is longer and straighter down behind the horse’s shoulder than a hunt saddle. The seat is closer to the horse’s withers which helps keep the rider’s center of gravity in the proper place. The pommel is a bit higher and the deepest point of the seat is more forward as it allows for a longer leg position.

The seat is usually much deeper in a Dressage saddle than a jumping saddle, and allows the rider to comfortably sit up in the saddle yet in a relaxed position to influence the horse. The padding of the panels is usually less than in a hunt saddle to permit a closer feel to the horse. It often has a wider bearing surface than a jumping saddle as well.

Some designs feature more padding in front of the knee, much more than in a jumping saddle, said to assist the rider in keeping the knee down and thigh back. However, there is usually little padding behind the calf, as the rider needs to be able to freely move the lower leg around to give aids to the horse.

The billets of most dressage saddles are very long, to allow the girth to be buckled near the horse’s elbow rather than underneath the rider’s leg (which would get in the way of giving effective leg aids).

It is important that your saddle fit both you and your horse. When you decide to select a Dressage saddle be sure you measure your horse from his hoof to his withers and then from his withers to his croup. You will need these measurements when you select your saddle to be sure it fits. However, if you ride more than one horse, it is not that practical to buy a different saddle for each one! You can try gel pads that will conform to your horse’s shape to help your one saddle fit. Try to fit the saddle such that there is sufficient room between the gullet and the horse’s withers and spaced over the spine evenly.

You should also sit in several Dressage saddles to find one that is most comfortable for you. Most often you can visit tack shops and sit in the Dressage saddle you may buy while it is on a saddle stand. Brands and styles vary, so become familiar with them all before spending a lot of money!

Author: Lisa Blackstone
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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The word “dressage” is derived from the French word meaning “training.” Its origins can be traced back over 2000 years, when the Greeks used dressage as a means of training for war. During that time, fighting on horseback is advantageous and so it was very important for the horse to be in sync with its rider. Dressage would entail movements such as pirouettes, piaffes, and courbettes — those which can be used in the battlefield.

While the Greeks didn’t use dressage saddles when riding horses, it is said that they used jointed snaffles to aide their maneuvering. The beginnings of a proper dressage saddle would be developed by the Assyrians about 700-800 BCE, and consisted of a cloth attached around the horse’s girth.

The art of dressage declined during the Middle Ages when soldiers began to use armor to protect themselves. Their horses would be covered in heavy armor that weighed from 50 to more than 150 pounds, therefore hindering any complex movements that classical dressage entailed. The dressage saddle evolved into a stronger piece of equipment that could reliably support an active soldier. The cantle and pommel became higher so that the rider wouldn’t be unseated. The seat was padded with wool or horsehair and covered in leather — something similar to the dressage saddle of today.

The Renaissance period saw the comeback of dressage as warfare made the transition into firearms for combat. Armor was significantly reduced as one could engage the enemy from a great distance. The battles in this era called for chargers — horses swift in movement so that strategic formations within the army could be executed. Dressage once again comprised of critical action on the part of the horse.

It was also during the Renaissance that the design of dressage saddles began to branch out. In England, as foxhunting became popular, so did it call for a modification of the saddle structure. The pommel and cantle had to be lowered so that jumps would be safer and more comfortable. The flap’s angle was also adjusted so that the equestrian saddle could achieve a better position during a high jump.

The dressage of today came about during the Twentieth Century in the standards of Olympic sports. Rather than being used for war, dressage has become a competitive sport practiced by all countries in the world. Men and women of all ages are now welcome to take part in this activity that is both fulfilling and enjoyable. It is regarded as a time-honored tradition that encourages lightness, balance, and harmony between the rider and his horse.

Author: Brooks Wiley
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Before you purchase any horse rugs, there are some things you should consider in order to find the right ones. There are a wide variety of types of horse rugs and finding the right one for your horse should be a lasting investment. knife edge stirrups Most horse owners end up buying more than one type of horse rug.

The size of your horse is an important consideration in your purchase. Before you shop for the perfect horse rug for your horse be sure to take the horse’s measurements. The risk of not taking measurements is getting a horse rug that is too large, which is a risk to the horse. Stable rugs

You will need to take some twine or rope and wrap it around the horse’s mid section in order to get a proper measurement. Measuring the twine against a tape measure will give you the width of the horse rug you need. You also need to measure your horse from the mane to the tail for the length.

Consider the climate of your area when you shop for a horse rug also. Any exposure to extreme weather conditions will warrant either a heavy weight horse rug or a light weight horse rug. Investing in a summer cooler horse rug is a good idea to protect your horse from heat, flies and other insects.

If you have a show horse or compete in horse competitions, you will want to find a dressage horse rug that is colorful and ornamental. You can easily find a horse rug that matches your horse’s personality and performance as there is wide variety of color and design available.

For horses that spend a lot of time in the stable, for whatever reason, there are stable rugs. These horse rugs can be anything from light weight fleece to fancy duvet types. Cooler Rugs These are meant for the comfort and warmth of the horse.

No matter what type of horse rug you choose for your horse, follow the manufacturer’s care instructions to keep it lasting a long time.

Horse rugs are just one of a myriad of horse tack that is available to care for your horse. western saddles Horse rugs are sometimes referred to as horse sheets or horse blankets. Horse rugs have been used in the care of horses for a very long time and are still a practical purchase for horse owners.

Horse rugs are used for various reasons in the care of horses. Stirrup Accessories For horses that spend considerable time in the stable there are are horse rugs meant to keep them warm. Horse rugs are also utilized in keeping injured or sick horses warm. The types of horse rugs used for warmth are often called heavy weight turnout rugs.

Cooler horse rugs are the ones that are used to cool a horse off after exercise or too much heat from the sun. Cooler horse rugs assist in removing excess moisture from the horse.

The type of horse rugs used in the summer, or after a horse has been bathed, are called summer sheets. These types of horse rugs are to protect the horse from getting dirty again and to protect from flies and other insects. There is also the option of getting a horse rug specific to flies called fly rugs.

For decorative reasons, there are other types of horse rugs. These types are usually fleece and very colorful and are used for show horses.

Horse fugs can be found in a large variety of color, size and material. The horse will need to be measured for size to get a perfect fit. double bridles It’s important not to place a horse rug on your horse that is too big. Doing so will cause your horse to become tangled and perhaps even to fall.

There are some horse rugs called horse blankets and are placed under the saddle. It’s important that saddle blankets fit well under the saddle to prevent chaffing of the skin or moving of the saddle. These horse rugs are more luxury, not necessity.

Whether it is for vitamins, minerals, fats or protein, horse supplements are very common. Requiring only water, a salt or mineral lick and quality forage, a healthy horse usually does not need supplements. Work, athletic or breeding horses, as well as aged or infirm horses may require supplements to give their bodies the proper nutrition. Otherwise supplements should not be used as a substitute for proper nutrition.

There are a plethora of commercially available horse supplements. dressage bridles Digestive aids, colic prevention, electrolytes, hoof supplements, growth development, energy supplements, blood building and vitamins and mineral supplements are just a few of the options. Also common are added fat and protein supplements. The most common type of protein added is soybean meal, although cottonseed, peanut and linseed meals are also given to horses. A good fat source given to sources is vegetable oil of varying types, corn oil being the most popular. Rice bran, too, is used as a fat supplement, for it contains 20% fat in addition to fiber. Provided it’s ground up, flaxseed offers beneficial fat to horses as well.

The average horse in good health will not need supplements. Access to water, forage and minerals is really all they need. Horses that engage in work, athletics or breeding may need something extra in terms of nutrition. treeless saddles Aged or infirm horses may also need something extra that normal nutrition cannot provide. As with horse feed, the use of supplements is dependent on the horse’s size.

Horse owners must have a thorough understanding of equine nutrition. Horses have particular eating habits and their digestion is suited to feeding in certain ways. For proper horse health, supplements may or may not be necessary. Supplemental forms of vitamins, minerals, fats and proteins are all available for horse, although they are not a substitute for a healthy, natural diet. Given constant access to fresh water, minerals and good forage like grass or hay, horses in good health need nothing else. Work, athletic or stud horses, however, may need supplements to fuel depleted bodies.

Horse Bridles

To reduce the potential risk associated with equestrian stirrups, safety stirrups offer an alternative. Whether attached to western or English saddles, stirrups can be dangerous for a couple of reasons. Horse Saddles A rider’s feet is able to slip through should the stirrups be too wide. On the other hand, the feet could get stuck between the irons if they are too narrow. Either way, should the rider fall off the mount, the danger of being dragged increases.

Safety stirrups are partially unattached at the top rather than completely enclosing the foot within the irons and the tread. They are designed to break away and release the foot in any direction should the rider fall. equine supplements They are meant to be comfortable for both horse and rider, with wide tread and an ergonomic design.

Some designs are such that the stirrups break away if there is too much lateral movement or if the rider’s toes point upwards. If this happens, the stirrups release the feet so the dismounted rider is not dragged.

Some stirrups are fitted with tapaderos, a different type of safety device. These are leather cups, also called toe stoppers, that close the front end of each stirrup and prevent the feet from slipping through. comfort bridle

Because of the moving parts on some safety stirrups, they may wear down more quickly. Stirrups that require replacement parts are less desirable for horseback riders. Other safety stirrup designs require too much force to release the stirrups, making them ineffective should a rider fall. If a rider’s legs to do not move in a particular direction, their feet may still become hung up. Another problem involves safety stirrups not breaking away when a rider’s toes point upwards at too great a degree. Should the rider’s toes turn to the side of the stirrup, it fails to release. Many different designs have been experimented with in order to offer a safety stirrup that is always effective.