Posts Tagged ‘dressage horses’

The Dutch Warmblood has made quite a name for himself over the past 15 years, and there are many very good reasons for this. Firstly, it is important to note that there are two very distinct types of Dutch Warmblood bred there today, one for dressage and one for show jumping, while the North American Dutch Warmblood Registry has line breeding ideas of its own for the hunting ring. One thing that remains true to form, however, is that there is a temperament and build of this breed for nearly every advanced equine sporting circuit in action today. The only realm that he has not been pushed toward so far is eventing, but we aren’t counting him out of the running just yet.

Over the past six years alone, the Dutch Warmblood has steadily gained favor in the dressage ring, and as of last year stood second in overall registry ratings only to the Hanoverian. The traits being pulled out of Dutch dressage horses are in high demand, and the breeders are taking note and paying attention. There will be a great amount of comparison and contrasting between the two breeds during the FEI World Equestrian Games in Lexington, Kentucky, as all eyes will be anxious to see if the Dutch can sneak out ahead of the pack this year. Suiting, though, considering that the Hanoverian was one of the finer breeds used to restore smoothness and refinement to the mechanized Dutch Warmblood after the first and second world wars were through with him.

The dressage temperament of the Dutch Warmblood is one of definitive patience, intelligence, and urgency to please. This was one of the original traits which made this breed so successful as a fine carriage horse during the 17th, 18th, and 19th centuries. When coupled with the strong and elegant lines of a well conformed horse, these traits are difficult to match in the dressage ring.

The jumper class of Dutch Warmblood is strained more toward energy and stamina. It was early on in the breeding of the Dutch Warmblood that jumping emerged as an innate talent, and the refinement of this trait includes allowing a bit more tenacity in the temperament. Determination and a greatly courageous head are needed for the jumping circuit, and this breed gives his all under every circumstance. Lines are crossed with more certainty and intentionality each year, as the gentle disposition of this horse on the whole is one of his most desirable traits, and as such is being heavily protected against warming by hotter temperaments.

For more information about the world equestrian games and to find the best world equestrian games housing visit http://weg2010housing.net.

Author: Abbey Dale
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
How Electric Pressure Cookers Work

Dressage has long been seen as the most graceful of equestrian events and for good reason. The FEI dressage horses that compete at this level are trained to move gracefully across the arena performing complex maneuvers while the rider appears to give no cues and interferes very little in the actions of the horse.

The FEI rules describe dressage as “the development of the horse into a happy athlete through harmonious education. As a result, it makes the horse calm, supple, loose and flexible, but also confident, attentive and keen, thus achieving perfect understanding with his rider.” Dressage also means “training” in French and when properly trained, the dressage horse is capable of performing a variety of maneuvers while it appears that the rider is really just along for the ride. This level of harmony is best witnessed during the dressage competition at the FEI World Equestrian Games.

There are two types of dressage competitions at the World Equestrian Games. These are the Grand Prix and Grand Prix Special. During the competition, each horse and rider will perform the same test that consists of specific movements and gaits to be performed at specific points around the arena. The FEI dressage horse will be capable of demonstrating a very high level of achievement and the performance of the horse will match the description of the FEI dressage rules.

Each horse is tested independently before a panel of five judges. Each movement of the test is judged independently as well. The horse and rider team with the highest overall score wins the competition. However, if you really want to see an amazing dressage performance while visiting the FEI World Equestrian Games, then you won’t want to miss the Freestyle competition.

The Freestyle competition allows the rider to create their own pattern and choreograph it to music. There are specific movements that must be completed in the test, but the rider is able to determine when those movements will be performed and they can ride to the music of their choice.

You can witness dressage at nearly every equestrian horse show across the globe, but rarely do you have the opportunity to witness the best dressage horses at work. If you want to see what a truly professional dressage horse looks like, there’s no better place than the FEI World Equestrian Games when riders and horses from around the world come to compete for FEI World Cup in dressage.

The dressage portion of the Alltech 2010 World Equestrian Games will take place September 27th-29th and October 1st, 2010.

For more information about the world equestrian games and to find the best world equestrian games housing visit http://weg2010housing.net.

Author: Abbey Dale
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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I often hear riders at the basic levels say that their dressage horses are collected. I assume they’re confused and are actually talking about connection as opposed to collection.

But since I run across this confusion a lot, I want to take some time to explain how to evaluate whether or not a horse is collected.

Many people think that when a horse is collected, he just takes shorter, slower steps. But you can shorten a horse’s strides without actually collecting him.

Think about three things in terms of collecting any gait.

1. The steps are shortened, but the rhythm and tempo stay the same as they were when the steps were longer.

2. The center of gravity must shift back toward the hind legs. That is, there is a loading of the hind legs. In nature, a horse has approximately 60% of his weight on his front legs and 40% on his hind legs. As you collect the horse, you gradually shift that center of gravity back to the hind legs. As a result, the horse begins to take more weight on the hind legs so his forehead can be lighter and freer.

3. When a horse is collected he bends the joints of his hind legs. As a result, his croup lowers and his forehand elevates. Look at the top of his withers and compare it to the top of his croup. In this balance, he’ll have the silhouette or outline of an airplane taking off, or a seesaw where one end is pushed down and the other end goes up.

It’s very important you don’t get fooled into thinking that a horse with a high head and neck carriage is necessarily collected. That’s because if the horse is “hand-ridden”, the rider can lift his head and neck up. But if the rider does this, the withers will stay low. And if the withers are low and the croup is high, there is no collection.

So when you evaluate whether or not a dressage horse is truly collected think about those three things–a shortening of the frame, a loading of the hind legs, and the relative height of the top of the withers to the top of the croup.

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques?
Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence?v Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach?
Learn how by going to: http://www.janesavoie.com/ or http://www.dressagementor.com

Author: Jane Savoie
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A horse’s tail is its prized possession. It’s used for comfort, to swish flies from itself and other horses, and it’s used for balance and communication. Trainers can use the horse’s tail to see if it is frightened, excited, or uncomfortable. In the show ring, a clean flowing tail can really catch the judge’s eye.

So how do you get the perfect tail? Well, first of all, it needs to be clean, and keeping a tail clean – especially a white one – is a big topic. Here, we’re going to talk about how you can clip and trim the tail to help your horse look and feel its best.

What kinds of tail trims are there?

What type of look you go for depends on your horse’s breed and what kind of work it will do. Some breeds, like Arabians, are usually shown with a natural, long, free flowing tail. Dressage horses will have a tail closely trimmed at the top to accentuate the hindquarters. Show ring hunters will need a tail that can be easily braided. Polo ponies and driving horses need close trimmed tails that can be easily tied up short to protect them from getting tangled up in traces or the polo mallets. Even horses that don’t show will benefit from a tidy tail to help keep it clean and keep it from getting matted and tangled.

Once you decide on the look you want, you get started with trimming the tail, and that will help you choose which tools you need in your horse grooming supplies.

Trimming the base of the tail

The base, or top of the tail is the most conspicuous part. If you are going to braid the tail you will need long, smooth hairs that will lie flat in a plait or braid. You will need to protect the tail from rubbing with a bandage or tail guard if your horse has the habit of scratching its tail on doors or fence posts. Fortunately for you, though, you don’t need to do a lot of trimming. That said, after you plait the tail, you may find that some hairs keep sticking out. Trimming these away with a good set of hand trimmers will make for a perfect show ring braid.

If you want a natural tail, again you won’t need to do much. The real work is for those that want a ‘pulled’ tail – that means keeping the hairs at the top of the tail very short for a close, neat finish. Traditionally, this used to be done by pulling out the long hairs, but many horse owners don’t like to do this. There’s no doubt that the horse’s tail is more sensitive than its mane, so pulling the tail is more uncomfortable for the horse than pulling the mane. And with some practice, you can get a better look with hand trimmers than you can get with a pulling comb.

Why? Well the problem comes as the hairs grow out. A newly pulled tail looks great, neat, tidy, and it really shows off the horse’s quarters and can accentuate its movement. But as the hairs grow out, they get prickly, and yet they aren’t long enough to grasp them to pull. That means you have an unsightly ‘bristle’ period until the hairs are long enough to get a grip on them. This isn’t a problem with hand trimmers!

With hand trimmers or clippers, you can choose how short you want the hairs to go. You can use wide clipper attachments to get slightly longer hairs, which are easy to get to lie flat, this is best for the top of the tail. Choose a closer trim for the sides of the tail, to clip the hairs away and really show off your horse’s quarters. Use a tail bandage and some baby oil or conditioner regularly, and you will get a smooth, professional finish. Keeping a good set of hand clippers and attachments in your horse grooming supplies means you will have a perfect finish every day.

Trimming the end of the tail

The end of the tail will also need trimming. For horses that aren’t showing, keeping the tail trimmed back to at least halfway up the cannon bone will help to keep it clean and prevent tangles and mattes. Horses that show with a natural tail may just need a little tidying up now and again for a good shape. Working horses might just need the tail shorted a little so it can be easily tied up. Show horses like hunters and dressage horses though, need a perfectly even, or ‘banged’ tail.

Getting a perfectly level tail takes two people – that’s because you need to try to simulate where the tail will be when the horse is moving. One person needs to hold the tail up just a little, so that it hangs where it would be when the horse naturally raises its tail when it moves. The best way to do this is to put your arm under the dock and simply rest the tail over. Then the second person can start trimming. Most people will choose to cut the tail at about midway up the cannon bone. However, if you are trying to make your horse’s legs look longer or shorter, you may want to cut lower or higher, or you may want to cut to match socks or stockings for a more even look. Either way, don’t use scissors.

Why not use scissors? Unless your horse has a very thin tail, there’s no way to get a perfect finish. It will take more than one cut, and that means edges and uneven ends. If you have a lot to cut off, you can start with scissors, but finish with hand trimmers. Holding the trimmers upside down, you can cut along the bottom of the tail. Unlike scissors, good, sharp clipper blades won’t push the hairs away, but will catch them and trim them evenly for a perfect flat finish. It takes a little practice, but the results are worth it.

Choosing a trimmer for tails

If you are going to be trimming your horse’s tail regularly, you should consider having a good set of horse trimmers in your horse grooming supplies. It will make keeping a ‘pulled’ and banged tail tidy easier for you and more comfortable for your horse. If you are going to be braiding your horse’s tail for shows, a good set of cordless trimmers will be essential for tidying up stray hairs – not just on your horse’s tail but for any last minute show ring touch ups. Here’s some options form the major suppliers:

Wahl horse clippers. The Wahl Bravura is a versatile hand clipper that can be used for manes and tails and more sensitive, precision areas. It can be used both with the cord and cordless, so you can take it with you to shows, and it’s quiet but powerful. It comes with a set of four attachments for clipping different areas. It’s a great choice if you can have only one set of trimmers in your horse grooming supplies.

Oster horse clippers. The Oster Powermax is a coat clipper, rather than a trimmer, but it’s a great value choice if you need one clipper that can do everything. The two-speed operation can get through thick coats, and the slower speed lets you do more sensitive work. You won’t get the precisions finish of a specially designed trimmer, but if you can only afford one set of clippers this one is more versatile than most. It will certainly make a good job of tail trimming, and it comes with a selection of attachments.

Andis horse clippers. The Andis Freedom Trimmer is a great cordless choice. It’s lightweight, lasts for an hour when fully charged, and runs quiet. You get a good choice of blades with the Freedom trimmer, so you can use these trimmers for careful work on fine hairs, then switch to more robust blades for the mane and tail.

Always choose clippers and trimmers from one of the main horse grooming suppliers. This way, you will get a warranty, you can be sure your clippers are safe to use, and getting replacement parts and blades will be easy. For trimming a perfect tail, you need to be sure your blades are sharp. If the coarse hairs of the tail get caught in dull blades, not only will you get uneven edges and broken hairs, but you risk pulling out hairs and hurting your horse. Invest in a few sets of blades, so you always have a sharp set in your horse grooming supplies, and you have spares when you need to send them away for sharpening. With a good set of trimmers and sharp blades, you can keep your horse’s tail looking neat and healthy every day.

This is the second in a series of five articles on horse grooming. This article is an easy to read, well written guide to grooming your horse’s tail. Not only does it provide specific guidance but also makes recommendations on the right horse grooming supplies to use to get the job done right in the shortest time.

Author: Marcus Koll
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Some dressage horses don’t understand accepting contact with the bit and your hand. They are quick to go from coming above the bit to curling behind the bit. If that sounds like your horse, you need to be able to quickly and smoothly change your aids to help your dressage horse understand and accept contact.

When your horse comes above the bit, use connecting aids as follows.

1. Close both legs to send him forward toward a lengthening.

2. When you feel the “surge” of power coming from behind, close your outside hand in a fist to capture, contain, and recycle that power back to the hind legs.

3. If your horse starts to bend his neck to the outside, vibrate the inside rein to keep his neck straight.

As soon as he ducks behind the bit, send him “forward through his body”.

Here’s what I mean by that. Go on a circle in rising trot, close both legs and ask for a trot lengthening for 6 or 7 strides. Do this several times until it becomes a knee jerk reaction for him to go “forward over the ground” when you close your calves.

Then close your legs as if you’re going to do a trot lengthening, but don’t lengthen. This time you want your horse to go ” through his body” rather than “forward over the ground”. As you feel him go forward though his body and start to take a contact with your hand rather than curling behind the bit, praise him.

You might have to alternate a trot lengthening with asking him to take a contact with your hand several times. But once he understands, you’ll have a tool to use any time he comes too low in front.

This system works well for the horse that likes to go with his poll too low and his face behind the vertical, but if he’s curling so badly behind the bit that he’s ducking his chin toward his chest, you’ll have to be a bit more proactive as far as explaining correct contact to him.

If he’s curled behind the bit really badly, in addition to sending him forward through his body, you might have to raise your hands to place the bit out in front of him so he can step toward it.

The feeling is like putting a sheet on your bed. You lift the sheet up, and then let if softly drift onto the bed.

You can also think of it like doing “the wave” at a football game.

If you do have to raise your hands because your horse has dropped behind the bit, keep the following things in mind:

1. Always use your legs BEFORE you raise your hands.

2. Raise both hands evenly.

3. To the degree that you raise your hands, ALSO put them forward toward his mouth without losing contact. That is, if you lift your hands 2 inches, they must go forward 2 inches. If you lift them 4 inches, they must go forward 4 inches.

4. As soon as you’ve placed the bit out in front of your horse, put your hands back down. If you keep them up, he’ll curl behind the bit even more.

5. Keep a smooth, steady contact with his mouth throughout this whole process. Don’t let the reins get loose, drop contact with his mouth, and then snatch him up. That will discourage him from stepping toward the bit.

To sum up, for the dressage horse that alternates between coming above the bit and dropping contact to come behind the bit, smoothly switch from connecting aids to sending him forward through his body as needed until you’ve clearly explained the right connection to him.

Are you sick and tired of complicated and confusing training techniques? Are you frustrated by negative emotions like fear and lack of confidence? Would you like to be trained by a Three Time Olympic Coach? Learn how by going to http://www.janesavoie.com/ or http://www.dressagementor.com.

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Guest blogger

Advice on Dressage and Horses

Dressage is the fastest growing equestrian activity today. It covers training the rider, training the horse and preparing for dressage competitions. Classical riding and training methods have survived for hundreds of years, largely passed down by word of mouth. These techniques have been proven to do the greatest good for the greatest number of horses. It is all about the gradual, systematic and gymnastic development of the horse. The emphasis is all about training the rider, explaining the basic riding skills, which will enable riders to develop their horse’s talents. Dressage appeals to all riders looking for humane and sympathetic approaches to riding and training their horses.

Dressage horses for sale

Buying a horse is real business. Aside from the initial expenses that you would incur, there are other maintenance costs that are relatively taxing. This is why you must be very decisive when buying a horse, especially dressage horses.

While we may benefit from on-sale items, we still must discern if we would profit in the long run. Before indulging yourself with the least expensive horse at your glance, be sure that you are secured with your choice and that you will have no regret in the end. As we have said, buying a horse, any type of horse for that matter, is a taxing business. You would not want risking your money over an old horse that can’t speed up while on track.

One of the major considerations when selecting an option for al horse is its speed. After all, horses are bought normally with speed in mind, not on the beauty of might or elegance of your steed but on its agility and performance. You are against no subjective rules while on racetrack but your bane is the time. Thus, you must give priority on how fast the horse for sale can go.

You should also put in mind the training a horse for sale has gone. Early discipline is vital with a dressage horse as this is not only a discipline-based event for horses; it also incorporates focus while on track. Earlier during the selection, you should ask for some display of skills.

There are horses that have problematic temperament, regardless if they are oriented to dressage. Even some of the best can present difficult behaviours at times. Common problems include hesitance before the competition, which may manifest during the onset of the game or the ending of the competition itself.

Some horses can be very aggressive which leads to missing the angles that must be hit to be able to perform the cloverleaf pattern perfectly.

Others, on the other hand, could be hard headed with following commands during the dressage level. Thus, common mistakes occur. Still others can be very timid or too deviant during the end of the competition, which could then result to delayed acceleration towards the finish. Put in mind that a slight delay due to the horse’s hesitation while on the arena would mean lesser points on your end. Thus, you must check into the temperament of your prospect horse. Lower price is nice but if this would endanger your performance then it would be better if you go with much priced barrel horse with greater capacities.

Dressage tests:

Another problem commonly encountered with horses is their tendency to become tired of training. It won’t hurt if you would ask bits of information about the horse’s background. This way, you would know how to get around the stuffs that would stress the steed. Say, sudden change of environment would be detrimental for the horse.

As much as possible, if the horse got fixed with a specific atmosphere that has proven to be healthy for him, make it a point that this same environment can be partly adopted. In such case, you would need ample assistance from the previous owner of the horse.

Lastly, but certainly not among the least consideration is the justification of the price. Too low price, considering that the horse is for sale might imply lesser efficiency on the horse’s part. High commanding price may also be too advantageous. Either way, you must discern things properly.

Author: Sonia Dixon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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So many riders are confused about how to warm-up their dressage horses so they can have a productive schooling session. So here are 9 tips to help you with your warm-ups.

As a rider and trainer, your goal in the warm-up is to take the restrictions away from your dressage horse’s body. So depending on the day, your warm-up could be as short as 10 minutes, or it could end up making up your entire ride.

1. Since your horse has probably been standing in the stall, spend the first 5-10 minutes walking around on a loose rein.

2. After walking around “on the buckle” for several minutes, pick up a contact so you can begin your warm-up.

3. Focus on the first three ingredients in the Training Scale-Rhythm, Suppleness, and Connection. I always start my work on those first three ingredients on a large circle. Then if all goes well, I’ll go large around the arena.

4. Rhythm: As you walk, trot, and canter around, check that the rhythm is always regular and the tempo is neither too fast nor too slow.

5. Suppleness: Spend as little or as much time as you need, suppling and relaxing your horse both mentally and physically. Work done in tension is a waste of time. When you supple your horse, you’ll relax him physically. Once he’s physically relaxed, he’ll relax mentally.

In a nutshell, to supple your horse, bend his neck 7 inches to the inside of a neutral position (neutral is when his nose is in line with the crease in the middle of his chest) while you close your leg on the same side.

Do a set of ” three supples” which means you’ll bend and straighten him three times quickly but smoothly. Then do nothing for 7 or 8 strides. Then do another set of “three supples”.

(This “suppling” technique is described in detail in Cross-Train Your Horse, Train with Jane Volume 1, and A Happy Horse Home Study Course.)

6. Connection: Use the “Connecting Half Halt” to put your horse on the bit. The “Connecting Half Halt” is the version of the basic Half Halt (a momentary closure of seat, legs, and hands) that puts your horse on the bit.

Close your legs steadily for 3 seconds as if asking for a lengthening, close your outside hand in a fist to capture and recycle the energy back to the hind legs, and keep the neck straight by giving 3-4 little squeezes or vibrations on the inside rein. The connecting half halt lasts approximately three seconds. During those three seconds, you “Add, add, add” hind legs through your closed outside hand while maintaining flexion at the poll to the inside.

In warm-up, I connect my horse and ride him either long and low, or if he tends to be heavy on the forehand, I ride in a “horizontal balance” with his topline is parallel to the ground.

7. When things fall apart, always go back to the beginning of the training scale. First, reestablish regular rhythm. Then, supple your horse. Finally, ask for connection.

8. While focusing on rhythm, suppleness and connection, it’s appropriate to ask the training level horse to do school figures like circles, serpentines, and shallow loops.

The first and second level horse also can do school figures as well as leg-yields, and rubber band exercises like gentle lengthenings, and then coming back to the working gait.

9. Many riders do a lot of transitions from gait to gait with their dressage horses in the warm-up. Personally, I think your horse needs to be warmed up sufficiently first before you can expect him to do good transitions. So, I save schooling the transitions until the second phase of my work after the warm-up is complete.

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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While most dressage (a French term meaning “training”) horses are warm bloods – Holsteiners, Trahkeners, Dutch Warmbloods, and Oldenburgs – some American Quarter Horses have also been very successful in dressage competitions. Whether the intent is to participate in basic dressage competitions with your horse or you have goals of reaching international competitions or even the Olympic games, selecting the right horse for the job is important.

In the search for a good competitive dressage horse, the horse must be trained in terms of rhythm and regularity. The horse should be able to maintain a steady and regular gait whether in a pure walk, a pure trot or a pure canter, down a straight path or a winding trail.

Pay close attention to that definition and note that dressage competitions are all about the horses and not the rider; the same is the case with other elements of dressage as well. When it comes to the judge’s decisions about how to score dressage horses, it is up to the horse to perform well against its competitors.

Another factor that judges score is the relaxed and confident behavior of the horse. The evenness of the horse’s gait, a lack of tension and soft chewing of the bit, smooth transitions and a swinging of the tail demonstrate these important factors of the horse’s performance in the dressage competition.

Judges in these events also look at the contact that the riders have with their horses; dressage horses should not pull the hands of the rider and the reins should be held evenly – in other words, the horse should be able to come up into the bridle and should be carried forward in a natural motion.

Just as the pull of the dressage horse is measured, so is its push – the thrusting power that propels a horse forward with correct muscle and joint use. Part of the horse’s push is measured in the straightness of the dressage horses gait, the horse’s ability to move forward with its hind legs following the same path as its front legs.

If you are looking to acquire a dressage horse for future competition, you will want to consider the abilities and traits of the person for whom the horse is intended. While the judges critique dressage horses in competition more than the rider, it is equally important for the rider to be able to guide the horse and to lead it through the judged events. If you are naturally uneasy atop a horse, then you will want to find a horse that is very intuitive and calm. If you were really tall and lanky, you would not want to get a shorter horse, no matter how successful the horse has been in previous competitions.

If a horse being considered is champion dressage horse, then perhaps the horse will not be a good choice for little Suzie to ride, even if little Suzie wants to compete. Little Suzie is still quite young and a champion dressage horse is very expensive. Perhaps more to the point, a champion should compete regularly, rather than occasionally. Another thing to consider is the bond that will develop between little Suzie and her horse, and how Suzie’s participation in the dressage training of the horse will only add to the experience for Suzie.

In other words, when you look at dressage horses, it’s important to recognize that all breeds of horses that are used as riding horses can be trained in the techniques and principles of dressage. If you are an experienced rider who does not have a great deal of experience with dressage – or any experience within the dressage ring for that matter – you’re likely to find that the same American Quarter Horse that you’ve been riding in pasture or on the trail can learn the basics of dressage. Perhaps more importantly, you’ll find that a bit of training as a dressage horse will lead you to a more enjoyable, everyday ride.

Dressage horses are less likely to refuse to do as the rider asks and is comfortable with bit contact. The flow of motion between riders and dressage horses tends to be consistent and will exhibit a constant communication between the two. Dressage horses are balanced and better able to draw on the strength of their hind legs, and have experience keeping a steady pace whether walking, trotting or cantering.

When, as a rider, you are able to focus more on the ride than on controlling your horse, you’ll take more pleasure in each outing that you make. Dressage horses – or, at the very least, horses that have had some experience with dressage – make great horses for kids and less experienced riders: while the rider remains in control, dressage horses are responsive, and that can have a huge impact on the pleasure of riding a horse.

Author: Philip Wiskell
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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