Posts Tagged ‘daily basis’

Horses were born to eat grass, it is their natural food. The supplemental feeding of grain was created by man in order to keep weight on horses as they were being used for beasts of burden. Horses pulling caravans across this vast country did not have time to graze, so man had to supplement their need for food. This is probably when feed bags were invented. As man settled and began to farm, horses were necessary for plowing and traveling long distances either for supplies or for herding cattle; again demonstrating the need for grain.

Horses can survive on grass alone. The need to give them grain will depend on the age of the horse, what kind of activity the horse is performing on a daily basis, the amount of pasture that is available for the individual and the quality of the pasture. Young horses that are weanlings (babies just weaned from their mother) and yearlings are growing at a fast pace. Actually any horse under the age of five for most breeds is still growing. If you want a horse that is strong and will grow to their full potential, giving them grain is the right thing to do. Horses that are being ridden often or on a daily basis should have grain. Now if your horse is in a pasture that has a lot of weeds or the grass stays short because there are too many horses in one pasture, then you may also want to supplement them with hay as well as grain. Another factor that comes into play is the breed of the horse. Certain breeds will need only a small amount of feed, others such as Thoroughbreds, need much more grain to accomplish the development of a healthy, strong animal.

Being a horse owner means that you must monitor your horses weight and condition constantly, whether they are in a stall or in a pasture. If you have a horse or pony that is an aggressive eater and is becoming too fat or even obese, when you are graining the other horses in the pasture, you will have to put that horse in a catch pen, usually built into a corner of a pasture, with no grain until the other horses are finished eating. Remember, if you are giving grain to pasture horses, the amount that you feed will be much less than that of winter time. Lets’ say you turn your horses out during the day in the winter. They will just forage around and pick a little on old dead grass that has little to offer as opposed to gorging themselves all day long and even during the nighttime. Horses can suffer from a severe condition called laminitis (founder) when they are carrying too much weight and producing too much heat in their bodies, and the heat travels to their feet. This condition is not only very painful for the horse but it is a permanent condition. They become more sensitive, can re-founder, will need extra care and specialized shoeing, and it can even cause them to loose their life if they are not removed from the environment that originally caused them to founder.

Horses have been around for millions of years and they survived without grain. The decision is yours and if you have horses in a rich pasture and they are not being ridden often and they have a healthy weight on them, then grain probably is not necessary. As long as your horse has a plentiful supply of rich grass, plenty of fresh water, trees or woods or a lean-to structure for protection, and you have them on a regimented worming program (will be discussed at a later date), life will be good for them without grain. Even though they seem to be self sufficient, horses always need to have a watchful eye on them at least once a day. It is necessary to check their water and clean the waterer or tubs often. Make sure all the horses seem happy, and are following their usual daily habits. You must also check them thoroughly making sure there are no serious cuts, wounds, or kick marks, and check their eyes for injuries or signs of illness or allergies.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my youtube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Creditcard Currency Conversion Fee

When you are thinking about purchasing a horse, you will find that there are many things to keep in mind when you are thinking about looking after them appropriately. Far too many people purchase horses with only the vaguest idea of how to look after them and this will certainly lead to more problems down the line. If you are considering the responsibility of owning a horse, take some time and really consider what kind of care horses need. There are whole books written on the subject, but take a look at the broad outline below.
 
The first thing that you need to think about is where your horse is going to be boarded. If you have the land, you may keep your horse at home, but if you do not, you may also be able to board them at a boarding stable. There are definitely advantages and disadvantages to both sides. If you board your horse at home, you can develop a much deeper relationship with the animal. You will be the one that the horse sees on a daily basis and you will also be able to keep a much closer eye on the horse on a day to day basis. This can make identifying problems much simpler. 
 
On the other hand, you may not have the land, and you might not have the time to care for your horse as he or she needs, and in that case a boarding stable might be preferable. Some people like the idea of keeping their horses at home during summer and then boarding them at a place with an indoor arena during the winter.
 
If you are housing your horse yourself, they are going to need shelter. Many people feel that horses do not necessarily need to be kept in a stable and that living outside is healthy for them. However, even if they do not live in a stable, they do need some sort of shelter. A shelter will keep them warm in the winter and give them a place to get out of inclement weather. The size of your shelter is going to depend on the number of horses you choose to keep. If your shelter has three sides, make sure that you plan at least 64 square feet per horse, with a ceiling that is at least nine feet high. Because horses are so very hierarchical, make the shelter wide rather than deep, so that one horse doesn’t prevent the others from going in.
 
You should also think about what kind of food your horse is going to get. In most cases, the food that horses eat is divided up into pasture, hay and concentrate. Mature horses that do light work tend to do well on pasture food alone, as long as the area has sufficient grazing for them. Pasturing a horse means that they should have an area that is large enough to meet their grazing needs.   Many people will divide up their pasture land and rotate their horses through them in order to give the grass a chance to grow back. 
 
Hay is another food source that you should not overlook. Always make sure that you inspect the hay before you buy it; ask the dealer to open up a bale so that you can see that it is dust and mold free. If it feels warm, don’t buy it; moldy hay can give your horse some serious respiratory problems. If you are looking at working horses, pregnant or nursing mares or growing young horses, look into concentrates to add to the hay. Sweet feed, manufactured pellets and cubes or cracked grains all constitute concentrates.
 
Always make sure that your horse has access to clean water unless they are very hot from work. If you are cooling down your horse, give him a few small drinks instead of access to free water. Your horse will drink between five and ten gallons of water a day. Also make sure that your horse has access to a mineralized salt block. Ask your veterinarian if there are any other supplements that your horse should have. Some areas are poor in certain vitamins and nutrients, and this can mean that supplements are required.
 
Take some time and really consider what kind of care your horse needs; there are many things to think about!

http://horseridingsaddle.com

Author: Marilyn Witt
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Smiling shark

Just as with humans, horses should strive to maintain an ideal weight. As is also the case with humans, it is often necessary to put your horse on a diet to drop a few unwanted pounds. The principles behind equine weight loss are the same as with human weight loss: do so healthily, slowly, steadily, and without starving.

Horses face many of the same issues we face when we are overweight. Carrying even a few extra pounds can put the horse’s total health in danger, and he or she can easily become more susceptible to breathing problems, hormone imbalances, injuries, and laminitis.

Starting The Diet

The first step to starting your horse on a diet is to determine the ideal weight for your animal. This number not only gives you a goal to strive for, it will also help you to figure how much food the horse should be fed on a daily basis.

Some simple guidelines for slow and steady weight loss are as follows: If the horse is still active and getting daily exercise, you should be feeding a minimum of one and a half percent of his or her current body weight, and as much as two percent of his or her ideal body weight in hay. If the horse is not getting regular exercise, or if he or she is confined to a stall or paddock area, you should feed anywhere from one to one and a half percent of his or her ideal body weight in hay.

Make sure you do not send your horse on a crash diet. If your horse is already on a reduced hay diet and not getting any grain, yet he or she is not losing any weight it can be tempting to reduce the food even further. You need to keep from doing this, as you could be affecting the animal’s metabolic rate, thus causing the horse to become resistant to the effects of insulin and become dependent upon fat stores in their bodies to feed their cells. When this happens (referred to as fat mobilization) the results can be so severe that organ damage can occur and the blood can become milky.

When you find yourself in the situation of a reduced calorie diet with little weight loss, it is important to check for underlying problems. We have all been around overweight people who claim they cannot lose weight due to a “glandular problem”. While most of us think “yeah right” when we hear this statement, the truth is it really could be the reason and the same could be true for your horse!

To determine if this is the case, take a bit of time and assess your horse for the following symptoms:

Weight gain that began right after the horse reached maturity;

Weight gain even on a diet that would not be sufficient to hold weight on a horse of a similar size;

A fatty or hard crest on the neck that is present even if weight is lost elsewhere on the body;

Other abnormal patches of fat in random patterns, sometimes appearing dimpled or resembling cellulite.

Other conditions such as insulin resistance and leptin resistance can be underlying causes of weight gain as well. If you suspect your horse may have any of these problems you should seek the advice of a veterinarian before starting any type of restricted diet.

What To Feed A Fat Horse

Hay should be your number feed for a horse that is overweight. That being said, it is extremely important that you choose the proper type of hay. Hay can vary a great deal in calories and sugar content. Bright green, tender cuts of hay, such as early alfalfa can really pack on the pounds. Coarser, or “stemmier”, cuts generally contain fewer calories and lower amounts of sugar. The best types of hay for weight loss include: meadow hays, prairie hays, timothy, orchard grass, and mature or late cuttings of Bermuda grass.

When trying to accomplish weight loss, grain should be omitted from your horse’s diet all together. You may be thinking that all of your horse’s nutrition comes from grain; however, this is simply not true. Grain can contain high amounts of fat and calories and really serves no purpose in an overweight horse’s daily diet. If you find your animal is in fact suffering from a metabolic problem, it is even more critical that you avoid feeding grain.

If you simply cannot stand the thought of only feeding your horse hay, or if he or she becomes unruly because others are getting grain, try feeding a healthier alternative. Beet pulp is low in calories, about the same amount as oats per pound; however since it needs to be soaked prior to feeding it can soak up about four times its dry measure. This means you can feed a good sized portion, while only providing a small amount of calories.

A great daily diet for a full sized horse is as follows: one pound (dry weight) of beet pulp divided into two feedings, mixed with two ounces of ground stabilized flax, and two ounces of rice bran. This makes for a diet that is well balanced, provides all the necessary nutrients, and provides enough fat (in the form of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids) to keep your horse happy. Adding the hay with a suitable mineral supplement is all you need to maintain optimal health.

Other Weight Loss Tips

Of course, just as it hold true with people, exercise plays a major role in a horse’s weight loss progress. A regular exercise plan not only helps the horse to burn calories, it also helps to balance hormone levels and increase metabolic function. This causes his or her muscle cells to become more sensitive to natural insulin, and better utilize the glucose needed for proper muscle function.

Limiting natural grazing and not allowing the horse to eat straw can further help with weight loss. Nature intended for a horse to graze in pasture, however nature did not intend for the horse to have an unlimited supply of fresh grass without having to travel miles a day to eat it. Try to limit the amount of grazing time each day by using a grazing muzzle or removing the horse from the pasture all together. While straw bedding may look unappealing to you, a horse loves it, and often munches on it without hesitation. Straw can have just as much sugar, and as many calories as grass hay and can really wreck a diet. Try switching to wood shavings or another type of bedding that will not encourage snacking.

Finally, refrain from feeding your horse treats. This may seem mean, or you may find it difficult to look into those big brown eyes and not give a snack, but in the long run your horse will be healthier from your will power. If you find you absolutely must feed a treat, opt for a very small amount of a low calorie food such as carrots, apples, or a handful of grapes.

Kate Hinton is CEO of ThatHorse.com which is a one stop shop for everything equine.

She is also the author of ‘The Essential Guide to Selling Your Horse’ which is a must have if you are looking to sell a horse.

Visit http://www.horse-selling-guide.com to purchase your copy today!

Author: Kate Hinton
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Anti-angiogenic Food

Horse health care is one thing. Caring for a horse who has a history of ulcers is something else altogether. Owners of horses who have had ulcers in the past are super-sensitive to any signs of possible new ulcers forming, whether it be a horse leaving his feed or experiencing a mild colic.

These owners all want to know: “What should I do if I think my horse is possibly developing another ulcer?”

Luckily, the answer is simple and cost-effective:

Prevention

Treating Possible Horse Ulcers with Prevention

Once a horse has fully recovered from an ulcer, the best way to prevent the formation of new ulcers is to put him on a nutritional maintenance program that will keep him healthy.

The simplest and most effective nutritional supplement I have found to keep ulcer-prone horses healthy is the Essentials from Simplexity Health. The Essentials are convenient daily packs of supplements that include:

2 forms of blue-green algae (with and without the cell wall)

acidophilus

bifidus

enzymes

When fed on a daily basis, this balanced mix of supplements keeps a horse’s gut healthy. The probiotics (acidophilus and bifidus) keep the population of “good bacteria,” or gut flora, in the horse’s small and large intestines flourishing. This is important because healthy gut flora prevents foreign invaders from taking over and causing ulcers. Probiotics also play a big role in healthy digestion.

The enzymes also play a crucial role in digestion, especially for horses who have trouble assimilating nutrients or have inherently poor digestion. Finally, the two forms of blue-green algae provide a nutrient-dense supply of vitamins, minerals, and trace minerals. These nutrients help to heal horse ulcers as soon as they start to form.

In short, the Essentials provide your horse’s body with everything it needs to maintain a healthy gut, and repair any ulcers that may begin to form. For maintenance, I recommend 1-2 packets of Simplexity Essentials daily, depending on the horse’s temperament.

Preventing Horse Ulcers When a Horse is Stressed

Feeding the Simplexity Essentials is an excellent way to prevent horse ulcers when a horse is in his normal routine. However, if a horse with a history of ulcers is going to be stressed, I recommend feeding additional supplements to prevent the formation of new ulcers.

Horses can be stressed by any number of factors, including travel, horse shows, heavy training, a new environment, or an abrupt change in weather. As a horse owner, you know best which factors stress your horse. If you know that you horse is going to be stressed, you can prevent him from developing new ulcers by supplementing his feed with ulcer-preventive substances beforehand.

For instance, if you know that your horse is stressed by long trips, in addition to feeding the Essentials, you might add green clay, Stomach Soother, SUCCEED, or KLPP and UF to his diet a day or two before you leave. The key is to feed him whatever nutritional supplement helped him heal from his original ulcer.

Depending on what kind of ulcers your horse is prone to, the supplement of choice could range from slippery elm and aloe to green clay or Stomach Soother. Not all horse ulcers are the same, so they can’t all be treated the same way.

Treating Different Types of Horse Ulcers

Because you know your horse best, you know which kinds of ulcers he is most prone to and what supplements work best for him. Keep these supplements on hand to feed before you stress him, or at the first sign of a newly developing ulcer. If, for example, your horse has a mild colic because of a weather change, and he responds well to Stomach Soother, add that to his diet for a few days until his symptoms subside. When paired with the Essentials, the Stomach Soother will prevent the formation of new ulcers… and save you a big vet bill in the process.

Prevention Really is the Best Medicine

I’ve compared case studies of horse ulcers treated with conventional medicine and holistic care. Over and over again, I see that the horses who are treated with holistic care, which focuses on a solid nutritional program and preventative care, are not only happier and healthier over all, but cost their owners less money in the long run.

A solid nutritional program that is designed specifically for your horse’s nutritional and temperamental needs is definitely a form of prevention against horse ulcers and all kinds of other acute and chronic health conditions. While the ongoing monthly costs of this kind of program may seem a bit higher than a “no frills grass hay” diet, ultimately a nutritional program like this will save you money and heartache.

++++ Order Essentials and Ulcer Supplements Online ++++

We are proud to be a one-stop online shop for horse owners interested in holistic care. If you have an ulcer-prone horse, we invite you to visit our online store, designed with your horse in mind.

Madalyn Ward, DVM, is a recognized author and veterinarian in the field of holistic horsekeeping. For free tips on horse health, horse personality types, and horse nutrition, plus one-stop shopping on holistic horse products, visit http://www.BuyHolisticHorse.com.

Author: Madalyn Ward, DVM
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Electric Pressure Cooker

Your horse comes to the gate happy to see you, then he spots the wormer tube and he prepares for battle. When you finally catch him and get the halter on you begin the event of deworming. If you are lucky, most of the wormer will not only end up in his mouth instead of your shirt, but it will also stay there and not end up on the ground. On bad days, you have to nurse your bruised feet and take a shower to get the wormer out of your hair. If this sounds remotely familiar then I have some lessons that can help you both in this simple process.

Over the years there have been many products developed to help with this procedure. There dewormers that are fed to the horse with his grain on a daily basis, different flavors of pastes and gels to make wormers more appealing to the horse and even ‘worming halters’ that help insure all the paste gets in the horses mouth and in the right place so it stays there. Now you will be able to teach your horse to accept paste.

We do not start with the goal, as that is the fastest way to get into a wreck, as your toes will attest to. We will start with a basic lesson that teaches your horse to put his head in the correct position to accept the wormer and leave it there until we ask him to move it. You can use a halter or bridle for this lesson and can do this in about any enclosed area. It is a good exercise to work on in the stall when you cannot go outside as well.

Start by standing on the left side of your horse and place your right hand on his poll with your fingers between his ears and your left hand about where the noseband of the halter lies. You will first teach your horse to lower his head to the pressure on his poll by placing light pressure with your right hand. Leave the pressure there until you see his head drop even a quarter inch. Do not add pressure if he raises his head. If he raises it too high for you to reach with your hand, then use the lead rope or rein and exert the same downward pressure. Remember to release the pressure as soon as his head goes in the downward direction, no matter how high it went and how little it goes down. We have to keep in mind we are teaching the horse to lower his head, not to put it where we started. Be sure to praise your horse for each correct guess with either a rub or encouraging voice.

Once the horse will lower his head each time you apply pressure and leave it lowered, you are ready to teach the horse to bring his head around to the side. First, bring the horses’ head down to a comfortable height with your right hand. Now, with your left hand apply pressure to the side of his nose at the point where the halter nose band would lay as if you were going to pull his head in front of you, but don’t pull. Just apply pressure and wait for him to move away from the pressure bringing his head to the side toward you. Leave your right hand at his poll and apply pressure if the horse raises his head during this part of the lesson. Always get the head at the correct elevation then ask to bring it to the side. When the horse raises his head, he is telling you he is uncertain and is tensing up. A good rule to follow is to go back in the lesson until you get the proper response then build on the correct answer. Again, release the pressure as soon as the horse moves away from it and praise the horse. When the horse understands to both lower his head and bring it in front of you, we will begin teaching the horse to leave his head where we place it.

Bring the horses head to the correct position using pressure and release. Release his head as soon as it is in the correct position. He will want to put it back straight so, when he does just bring it back. Count how long he leaves it to the side and try to build that time in small increments. When your horse will leave his head to the side for one minute, start messing with his face a little at a time. Allow the horse to put his head back forward when he does well. It can make the horses’ neck sore to keep it to the side too long so give him breaks, switch sides, and practice the same lessons on the other side. Rub his cheeks, nose, mouth, etc. and when he is comfortable with that start rubbing the sides of his lips where the wormer will be going.

Use extreme caution when working around the horses’ mouth that you do not place your fingers where they could be easily bitten. There is a gap between the incisors and molars that has no teeth. It is also where the bit rests. This is the only place you should put your fingers actually into their horses’ mouth. If you choose to do so, the horse will try to spit your finger/hand out with his tongue. Use extreme caution that you do not allow him to draw your finger/hand into his teeth where he could mistakenly bite them.

Place your right arm under the horses’ head and bring your right hand to the spot your left hand had been on the bridge of the horses’ nose. Now with your left hand carefully rub the insides of the lips and while lifting the lip out of the way with your right had, rub the outsides of his bars and gums until he is comfortable. Take small steps and if you meet a lot of resistance go back to a point the horse is comfortable and start back at that point and move forward slower.

When the horse is comfortable with one finger, move to two, then three, and so on until the horse will allow you to place your entire hand in his mouth at his bars, staying relaxed and calm. Your horse should also allow you to hold his tongue to the side of his mouth as well. When you place your hand, at the bars, into his mouth, he will try to spit it out, gently take his tongue and pull it out to the side.

We have now taught the horse to accept us working around and in his mouth and we are ready to introduce the worming tools. We will start with an empty wormer syringe. Bring the horses head into position in front of you and take the empty syringe and begin by rubbing it all over the horses’ face, mouth and lips. When he is quiet for that, rub the syringe along the inside of the lips where it will be used later. When the horse is calm with that, insert the syringe into the horse’s mouth as if you were going to administer the wormer and push the plunger. Continue with this until the horse accepts the empty wormer.

Now find a paste substitute that your horse likes such as syrup, applesauce, baby food, etc. Place a small amount into the wormer syringe and administer it to the horse. Do this daily until the horse looks forward to the wormer. Now we are ready to pull a fast one on them. Take your wormer and without hesitation, administer it to the horse. Later that day dose him again with the substitute that he likes. If he is hesitant back up until he is calm and administer the substitute until he looks forward to it again. The next time you are ready to worm him, go in with the wormer and administer with out hesitation.

Jodi Wilson is a recognized authority on the subject of horse training and has spent almost 30 years developing training techniques and solutions for horse owners no matter the discipline or breed.

Jodi is an Accredited Josh Lyons trainer, and is Certified in John Lyons training techniques. Her website, http://Jodi-Wilson.com, provides a wealth of information to improve the relationship between horse and rider. Jodi is also available for clinics and demonstrations as well as lessons, apprenticeships, and horse training.

Jodi has trained and competed in Reining, Sorting, Jumping, Dressage, English and Western Pleasure, Trail and Problem Solving.

Author: Jodi M Wilson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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When you are selling horses, your goal is probably to make a profit. Perhaps you purchased a horse and subsequently trained him so you can sell him for twice what you paid, or maybe your current competition horse is no longer sufficient for your abilities. Whatever the case, you should keep profits in mind when selling horses.

That said, etiquette is important in the horse industry, and you can easily make enemies if you aren’t careful about how you handle potential buyers. Just like with buying horses, you need to have a level head and a strategy to make the sale.

1- Groom Your Horses

Selling horses is a lot like selling real estate: first impressions matter, and the beauty on the inside is secondary. When people come to look at your horses for sale, you want them to see the most beautiful animal possible, so make sure you groom your horses on a daily basis while they are on the market.

You should also pay attention to those annoying grooming rituals that you might normally forego. Bathing and clipping, for example, are good habits when selling horses. Just bathe once a week while your horses are on the market, and make sure ears, fetlocks, muzzles and bridle paths are trimmed regularly.

2- Return Phone Calls

Or e-mails, or faxes, or any medium through which potential buyers might try to get in touch with you. The horse business moves quickly, and if you wait 24 or 48 hours to get back to buyers, they might already have found other horses that meet their needs. My advice is to try to return phone calls and e-mails within 6 hours of receipt.

Of course, the manner in which you return communication is also important in selling horses. Are you friendly on the phone? Do you invite questions? Do you make time to give the buyer details about your inventory? Think like a salesperson when selling horses, and you can’t go wrong.

3- Prepare Media

The more materials you have when selling horses, the better your chances. I advise, in addition to a text ad in appropriate publications, both videos and pictures to showcase the horses you intend to sell.

A text ad for selling horses should be well-written, with proper grammar and appropriate details for the market your horses are in. Be completely honest about your horses’ personalities and abilities; don’t “pad” your text ad with information that isn’t true. The buyer will find out.

As for videos, it is better to not make one at all than to make a poor one. Use a good-quality camera and hold it steady as you shoot the video. Try to showcase the horses’ most impressive attributes, such as jumping or dressage. You’ll also want to get a close-up of horses standing and walking.

Photographs have the same rules as videos when selling horses, but they aren’t as flexible. Since you can’t show motion, just make sure the pictures are in focus and as clear as possible.

4- Ride the Horse First

This is a simple manner of etiquette, but an important one. When selling horses, it is customary for the owner to ride the horse for the buyer before allowing the buyer to try him out. This demonstrates that you are comfortable with the horse, and gives the buyer a chance to see the horse in action.

The only exception is when selling horses you aren’t comfortable with. In this case, make it clear to buyers that you aren’t sufficiently skilled to handle the horse, but that you are willing to let them ride him if they wish. Make sure they sign a liability waiver before you let them mount up.

5- Provide Written Records

The best way to convince buyers that you are an ideal seller when selling horses is to show them how organized you are. Prepare a notebook or binder with all of your horses’ records, from veterinary documents to farrier receipts and Coggins tests. Order everything chronologically and include a physical description of your horse, his pedigree and any other pertinent information.

In this vein, selling horses is a lot like selling cars. Buyers want to know when the horse had his last “tune-up” and how often you’ve practiced good maintenance. This will reassure the buyer that the horse is in excellent health.

6- Limit Riding Time

You have a responsibility to the buyer when selling horses, but you also have a responsibility to your horse. For example, if you’re showing your horse in the dead of summer, you won’t want a buyer to ride your horse for two hours while he “gets the feel” of him. You are perfectly within your rights to say, “I think he’s had enough.”

If the buyer has a problem with limited riding time, invite him to come out another day to try him again. A good buyer will want to do that anyway, so try to accommodate without putting your horse at risk.

7- Be Honest About Temperament

Some horses just shouldn’t be ridden by children, and if you have one of them, let all buyers know this. The ethical way to go about selling horses is to be up-front and honest about your horse’s temperament. If he needs an advanced rider, say so.

8- Clue the Buyer In

Every horse is different, so try to give the buyer a hand when selling horses. Tell him that your horse takes a short rein or not much leg or lots of verbal encouragement. This will help the buyer to have a positive first ride and will limit frustrations.

This is especially true when it comes to safety issues. For example, I once had a horse that would flip out if you got anywhere near him with a bat or crop. The same went for spurs. If your horse is sensitive to certain artificial aids or if he’ll buck with too much leg, make sure the buyer knows before he climbs aboard.

9- Price High

Negotiation is expected when selling horses, so don’t list your horse at the lowest price you’ll possibly accept. Increase the price about $500 or $600 over what you are willing to take, then let the buyer negotiate you down. He’ll feel as though he’s gotten a great deal and you won’t feel tempted to accept a low-ball offer.

That said, don’t gouge the buyer. Appropriate horse prices are difficult to gauge, so start listening to buyer feedback. If ten buyers scoff at your entry price, take it down a notch or two. Your horse might not be worth as much as you originally thought.

10- Shut Up

When selling horses, many people have the tendency to talk constantly as the buyer looks over the horse and takes him for a test drive. This is a big mistake. Even if you are just nervous, the buyer is going to think you are trying to distract him from something that is wrong with the animal.

Conduct a brief introduction of the horse, explain anything the buyer needs to know, then let the horse do the talking. You should of course answer any questions the buyer might have, but resist the urge to go on and on.

Selling horses can be a frustrating process, but eventually you will find a buyer. Just continue to advertise your horse and market in places where interested buyers are likely to take notice.

Author: Laura Jane Thompson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Buying a horse can be a very complex task. For those people that may think a horse is horse could find themselves facing big problems. Each horse is different and needs to be looked at in such a way. All horses will have some problems, it is a matter of do you have the skills to properly deal with them.

Let me say up front one big secret I think there is to having a great horse, it’s all in the relationship. If you want to have a successful and fulfilling relationship with your horse you have to get along. The famous Will Rogers quote, “The outside of a horse is good for the inside of a man.” That is true quote but you must remember that the opposite can be true also, you could begin to dislike and even hate a horse you are not having fun with. The remarkable thing about a horse, is that over time they will begin to represent a mirror image of you. If you don’t know how to handle a horse then your horse’s problems can grow. A horse has a wonderful knack to exploit your imperfections. That why it is imperative to have the horsemanship skills and tools to be able to “train” a horse. From the selection, training, management and to horseman, I have defined four sections to examine in order for you to take the steps to excel as a horseperson.

Selection: The horse you choose, is the horse you must live with and deal with on a daily basis. If you select a horse with many “challenges” then you must embrace ways to develop and learn to possess the skills to correct those “problems”. There is no horse that is challenge free or problem free. Some horses just have less challenges then others. Your first horse should not have challenges that can in injure you. Challenges can be in many forms:

Age – Breed – Health – Abuse – Attitude – Neglect – Never Trained – Poorly Trained – Time to devote to the horse – Facilities not available

It is best if you shop around and educate yourself on what you really want in your horse. Love at first sight is not a good buying strategy for a horse. Inexperience in horse selection can be anything from unpleasant to very painful, including death. The wrong horse in the wrong hands can be a deadly combination. The average horse is ten times more powerful than you. Horse ownership should be an absolute joy and not filled with fear and anxiety. Selection of your first horse is paramount to having a good horse experience. The old saying of a green horse and a green rider soon turns to black and blue was founded on truth.

Psychological Selection: We may unknowingly be psychological mirrors to the horses we gravitate towards, or the horses may be psychological mirrors of us. Either way it is very common for the person buying a horse for personal use, to select a horse for subconscious reasons. I only address this here so you are aware of it. It is too complex an issue to discuss in its entirety here.

Cost: Good horses are expensive to purchase. But the initial price of the horse may be shortly eclipsed by the constant cost of the routine expenses it may take to properly care for a horse. Veterinarian bills, feed bills, farrier bills, continuing education fees, tack, stable fees, etc.

Time: The time you spend with your horse is important. The horse’s favorite companion is routine and habit. For a horse to develop well, he should also be mentally and emotionally stimulated. It takes time to teach a horse something new or to refine prior learned tasks. It takes lots of time to build exceptional communication between you and the horse. Again learning in horsemanship is a two way street, you must also develop your horsemanship skills. My personal goal as a horsemen is having people to try to figure out how you got the horse to do that maneuver, with no obvious signs of a cue. When people always ask you how it is you have the best mannered and such a well trained horse, that is when you are becoming a horseman. In my opinion there is no more noble quest than to be a superb horseman. Pat Parelli considers a horse green with less than 1,000 hours of training. If you work/train/ride your horse one hour each day, it will take about 3 years to reach 1,000 hours.

Breed selection: There is no perfect breed. Each breed always have pluses and minuses. Each breed has it’s limitations and attributes. Some breed organizations are large, others are small. You should select your horse based on your intended use and individual flare. Arabian horses will make poor roping horses, but they make superb endurance racers. Quarter Horses were originally bred to produce an all around ranch horse that was extremely fast running a quarter mile. Walking horses make excellent trail horses, their gait and endurance allows for a long pleasant trail ride. Each breed may have their temperaments, some may be “hot” or “cold”. Horse shows, fairs, television programs and the internet are just a few places to learn about different breeds. Most people will be more than happy to embellish enthusiastically about “their” breed of horse if asked.

Age: Young horses can be very enjoyable, most of the time they are “baggage free”. They can also become nightmares in the wrong hands. Raising a young horse from weanling to riding age can be the best thing ever, to both you and the horse, if handled properly. It is not wise to have your first horse be a horse younger than six years old, that has been properly trained. Your first horse should never be a green horse. A ten year old well seasoned horse is worth its weight in gold. They are usually very mature and commonly have only a few veterinary problems. Your first horse should be your buddy. A horse that will help you learn at your pace. A green or young horse will learn at their pace. If you are unprepared to teach the horse, let someone else start and train your horse. But you must be in on the process. If you don’t know how to train or ride a horse you really need some professional guidance.

Place of Purchase: Buyer beware was a phrase born by dealing with horse traders in the old days. Auction barns can be a place to get a very good deal or a perpetual problem. The best place to purchase a horse is from a well respected breeder or private owner. The first question you should ask is: Why are you selling this horse? A breeder makes a living selling horses. His or her response should be, “That’s what I do.” A private owner may have numerous different responses. Hopefully they will be frank and honest with you. It is possible to pay an experienced horseman or horsewoman to help you select the horse that is right for you. The phrase many people use today in selecting a horse is called “matching personalities”. Don’t feel you have to be coerced into buying the first horse you see. There are millions of horses out there, buy the one you think will suit you best. For your own protection ask for a 30 day trial period. If the horse turns out not to be the horse for you, a honorable person should take the horse back. A person that is truly interested in the welfare of the horse will want what’s best for the horse. The seller should want what’s best for the horse, if not, you are a buying a horse from the wrong person. The horse should be in the same condition it was when you bought it, if you expect to return it.

Normal wear and tear: The only time a horse is usually perfect is the minute he is born. Horses will get cuts, scars, bumps, bruises and other sundry of problems. Chronic medical conditions that cost large sums of money to treat or that will impede the normal use that you expect with your horse is entirely different. HYPP, laminitis, club foot, heaves, and other serious diseases/syndromes can become a horrendous ordeal. It may be beneficial to have a veterinarian conduct a “vet check”. The veterinarian can point out any physical pitfalls. That of course will require a fee, but may in the long run be a lot cheaper.

Horse Home: A horse needs space and/or daily exercise. Horses in the wild average 20 miles of travel a day. The smaller the confinement, the more potential problems you will have with your horse’s emotional state. Horses do much better emotionally with a buddy of some type. Horses feel more comfortable in groups, as in the wild they bond together in bands for safety. The point being that horses are plains animals, and rely on other horses in the herd/band to spot potential enemies/threats. When there is no one else to help look out, a horse can become emotionally over concerned and may not rest well. The area in which the horse is confined should be free of hazards.

Horses, as the joke goes, could injure themselves in a padded room. Another truism, the more expensive the horse the greater chance they will hurt themselves. The area in which a horse is housed needs to be inspected for various hazards a horse may find during their free time.

Horses are one of the greatest gift you can buy for yourself. A lot of thought and research should go into this very important purchase. Educate yourself so that you will have a fulfilling experience and know the joy of horse ownership.

Author: Matthew Brendal
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Duty on LCD/Plasma TV

Anyone who has made the decision to buy a horse will soon find out that there is so much to learn. One thing I had not really considered was the maintenance needed for all the equipment etc and below are some useful points I have discovered which you might like to share.
The purchase of a good quality horse blanket is important and the aftercare, because laundering equestrian blankets needs an industrial washing machine.
Your horse should be checked on a daily basis to make sure that their blanket is not pulling or rubbing. If you see any patches of broken hair this is usually a certain sign.
Folding your blankets, fleeces and rugs, in the correct way makes them so much easier and safer to put back on your horse or pony. The horse is also less likely to spook if you set a folded bundle on his back, carefully unfolding it than he would if you just dumped the blanket over his back and dragged it into position. 
Fold your blanket whilst taking it off the horse or after cleaning ready for the next use. A folded blanket seems much easier to carry. 
Start with the blanket, placed unbuckled on the horse, or take it off and lay it on the ground.Then put the rug so the outside is facing upwards. Spread the straps straight out so they can be folded into the blanket as you go.
Fold the back third of the blanket up towards the middle, then tuck in the leg straps and fold in the tail flap.
Then fold the front third part of the blanket back towards the folded edge. Then straighten out the shoulder gussets.
Fold the right side up so the lower edges meets the centre seam.
Then fold the left side up so the lower edge meets the centre, thus folding up the belly straps.
Put the two halves together. The bundle can then be folded together once more and packed in a bag for storage. Then just reverse the order of the folds which enables you to put the blanket back on the horse easily.
If your horse is kept outside a lot it will probably be good to have two outdoor rugs. An extra blanket allows you to swop one blanket to allow the other one to dry.

It is wise not to try to wash your horse blankets in your washing machine!
There are heavy duty washing machines that can be bought especially for “equestrian use”. This could be invaluable and if you share livery with other people at your stables it could well be a great investment if the cost is shared.