Posts Tagged ‘cold weather’

Horse blankets are pretty handy to have around a stable, but not essential for every horse owner. A standard horse blanket is used to keep a horse warm and or protected from wind and other elements.

A horse blanket fits around the horse’s body from chest to rump, straps cross underneath the belly and fasten the blanket securely. Most blankets have buckles in the front, today there are blankets that can be slipped over the horses head. Some blankets also have small straps that loop around the horse’s hind legs which. This helps the blanket from slipping sideways.

Horse blankets are designed according to there use. You can buy a single horse blanket and be content with that, or you could have several and use all of them in a single day. Before buying a horse blanket consider its purpose. I strongly suggest you take into consideration who exactly is going to be responsible for putting on and taking off the blanket.

I can not recount how many dollars and pounds I have seen wasted in a stable yard on horse blankets. I have worked in the USA and UK with horses and I still shake my head in disbelief at the countless times a day I would have to change a blanket on a single horse – to suit the owner. Have you ever stopped to consider how your horse feels?

A horse blanket should be versatile enough that it keeps your horse protected in cold weather. If your horse lives out in a pasture and is not stabled, you ought to buy a blanket that is well insulated to keep him warm. The blanket should also be waterproof, that way you or grooms do not have to run out at the first drop of rain to change blankets.

If your horse is stabled, a single warm blanket will suffice. If you buy a light blanket, he may get too cold and his natural response is to grow thick fluffy hair and look like a teddy bear. Most horse owners prefer to deter this response and blanket their horse. If you buy a thick warm blanket you need to monitor its use.

Temperatures drop at night; if you blanket your horse with a horse blanket for severe cold temperatures in the early evening, you are going to have an uncomfortable horse. Your horse most likely will be too hot and start to sweat. When the temperatures drop, he stops sweating, but has cold sweat to deal with and a wet blanket. If anything the blanket in this case is useless.

However if your horse has been clipped, in cold or even cool weather he is going to need more than a simple warm blanket to provide insulation that his hair coat would have done.

Besides protecting your horse from weather elements, there are blankets to protect from flies and gnats which are useful. A cooler or a sweat sheet is another blanket that is highly recommended for a horse owner. This blanket allows your horse to cool down and dry after being washed or exercised, but protects from draughts or chills.

Horse blankets have various designs and uses. You can buy several or you can buy one, only make sure that the blanket best suits your horses needs. You can then choose any color to your liking, provided they are made in that color.

Horse Guide.

Get information on buying, owning and caring for your horse, learn about Buying Horse Blankets. Learn about your horses anatomy.

Author: Benjamin Wise
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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This Spring, owners of laminitis horses are starting to chew their fingernails because spring is just around the corner. Despite record cold weather in parts of the country, green grass and other signs of spring are popping up regardless. This, of course, makes people who have laminitis horses quite nervous!

If you are one of those people, don’t panic. Luckily for you, there are a lot of horse health care steps you can take to prevent your equine buddy from experiencing laminitis symptoms… or at least keep them to a minimum. The same is true for horses who are insulin-resistant, or otherwise on the edge of falling into laminitis.

In this article I cover some basic steps you can take to keep your laminitis or laminitis-prone horse healthy this spring. If you want to learn more about this chronic condition in general, check out the ebook, Understanding and Mangaging Cushing’s Disease, Insulin Resistance and Laminitis. Horse Health Care: Preparing Laminitis Horses for Spring Before spring really hits, horse owners can take steps to ensure that their laminitis horses are healthy and ready for warmer weather and greener pastures. Assuming that your horse is currently not experiencing any symptoms of laminitis, here are three steps you can take to ensure that he’s ready for the coming season.

Check Weight and Insulin Levels Overweight horses and insulin-resistant horses are both prone to laminitis. Before you turn your laminitis horse out on pasture, make sure that he is at a healthy weight. Overweight horses tend to develop mechanical laminitis, meaning their hooves can’t stand the weight of their bodies. If your horse is overweight, you probably need to help him lose weight before spring. If he still has his winter coat, you may have to run your fingers through his coat to see if he’s fat or just furry. If he is fat, you can help him lose weight either by feeding him a more appropriate diet (see the section on diet below) or exercising him more, or both.

This is also a good time to have some blood work done on your horse to check on insulin levels. Insulin-resistant horses may or may not be overweight, but are prone to grass founder or laminitis. Signs of insulin resistance include a cresty neck and unevenly distributed fat over the withers and base of the tail. A preventative blood test now to check insulin levels can save you grief this coming spring.

Double Check Overall Health Because laminitis horses tend to experience symptoms when they are generally unhealthy, check for signs of overall health. Signs that your horse isn’t healthy include poor hair coat, eye discharge, change in temperament, stiffness, sensitivity to hot or cold weather or weather changes. If your horse shows any of these signs of poor health, now is the time to increase his nutritional program, and restore his overall health. The combination of one ounce of XanGoMangosteen juice plus Simplexity Essentials seems to work well for most horses.

Avoid Over-Vaccination and Drugs Vaccination is a normal part of most barn routines, and yet over-vaccination can be one of the main causes of laminitis. In addition, laminitis horses are extremely sensitive to drugs or vaccinations in their bodies, and even one round of “normal” vaccination can trigger a laminitic episode.

Managing Laminitis Horses During the Spring Once spring has well and truly arrived, there are more horse health care steps you can take to protect your equine friend from a laminitis episode. Laminitis horses have to be carefully managed in terms of diet and nutritional supplements, hoof care, and pasture turnout.

Diet for Laminitis Horses The best diet is simple, low in carbohydrates, and high in fiber. Small amounts of equine senior feed is acceptable for some laminitis horses, while others do well on a small amount (8 ounces) of oats or barley. At the same time, some laminitis horses can not tolerate any grains.

A probiotic/enzyme supplement like FasTrack or Simplexity Spectrabiotic supports the digestive function and limits the production of endotoxins. Simplexity blue-green algae provides a source of food-based vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. Small doses of antioxidants such as coenzyme Q10 may be indicated. You should not need to give more than 60-120 mg a day of a good quality Q10 product like those produced by Simplexity Nutramax Comal, or Thorne brands. Generic brands of Q10 may not be active.

Hoof Care for Laminitis Horses Spring is also the time many people pull their horses up and put shoes on. However, if possible it is best to keep laminitis horses barefoot for as long as possible. They must be trimmed regularly. If their toes are allowed to grow long or their heels are allowed to get too high, then the normal mechanism of the hoof is impaired. Overly correcting angles on overdue hooves creates unnecessary discomfort for the horse and sets back his effort to establish new laminar attachments.

If your horse must have shoes, you might try a heart bar shoe or a shoe with a Theraflex pad for at least one shoeing period. If contracted tendons are the main problem then wedge pads are used to raise the heels. A reverse shoe may suffice if the tendon tightening is mild. I always shorten the toe to ease breakover. I rarely if ever lower heels. Shoeing must be done by a competent farrier that has worked before with foundered horses. These horses have special needs which may require beveling the inside shoe rim to protect the sole and clips to take pressure off the nails and hoof wall. The shoeing interval must be regular and tailored to the horses needs. Amazingly, owners will spend thousands of dollars to save a foundered horse but neglect hoof care after the crisis is past.

Pasture Management for Laminitis Horses Turn-out on lush grass should be approached cautiously. Many horse laminitis cases have hormone imbalances that affect their sugar metabolism. Fast-growing, lush grass is high in sugar. In the spring, laminitis horses should closely-monitored for an increase in digital pulse if turned out on pasture.

The safest time to turn out laminitis-prone horses on pasture is late at night or early in the mornings, when the grass is not in a flowering stage of growth or stressed by drought or frost. It’s best to turn these horses out in pastures that have not been sprayed with artificial fertilizers, herbicides, or insecticides.

While I prefer horses to be grazed on unfertilized, native grass pastures, grasses in nutrient-poor soil are often under stress and produce high levels of sugars. Since steadily growing grasses tend to deplete their sugar levels (which is a good thing), regular mowing to encourage this kind of growth can help control sugar levels. Regular mowing also helps control weeds.

Keeping Laminitis Horses Health I hope these tips help you keep your laminitis horse healthy this coming spring. It’s been a trying winter for most of the country, so having a healthy happy spring would be a wonderful blessing for horses and humans alike. If you need more help with your laminitis horse, check out the resources in the next section.

Madalyn Ward, DVM, is a recognized author and veterinarian in the field of holistic horsekeeping. For free tips on horse health, horse personality types, and horse nutrition, plus one-stop shopping on holistic horse products, visit http://www.BuyHolisticHorse.com.

Author: Dr. Madalyn Ward, DVM
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Three standard indicators of a horse’s health are temperature, pulse rate and respiration. These can be used not only to determine if your horse is ill but also can indicate the type of illness.

Horse’s Temperature

The normal temperature for a horse is about 38C (100.5F). Individual horses may vary half a degree either side of this, so you may want to take your horse’s temperature when it is healthy so you know what its healthy temperature is exactly. There can also be a variation of up to half a degree due to time of day and activity. Variations of more than one degree indicate a problem, which should be treated accordingly..

An elevated (abnormally high) temperature usually indicates that the horse has an infection. In such cases, keeping the horse warm and comfortable is important. In particular, one should protect it from being chilled by cold, wet or windy weather. The higher the temperature is, the more serious the condition, and the more likely that veterinary assistance or antibiotics may be required.

A depressed (abnormally low) temperature is unusual, but can occur in cold weather (especially if it is wet or windy) if the horse is unable to maintain its temperature. Horses which are old, sick or weak can be chilled easier and faster in cold conditions. A drop in temperature should be taken seriously as even small changes can easily result in secondary issues such as colic, or even be fatal. The horse should be moved to shelter and covered with a warming rug. If you have mash, mixing a small quantity with some warm water (but not hot!) and feeding it to the horse can help it warm up, partly due to the warming effect of the water and partly from the quick energy of the mash. The horse should be closely monitored until it warms up and fully recovers. To prevent a reoccurence, one should ensure that the horse has adequate shelter from the weather, consider using a horse rug on colder days (especially if wet or windy) and consider giving it a quantity of high-energy food (such as mash or grain) during cold periods (note that any dietary changes should first be discussed with a veterinarian to avoid potential dietary related problems such as laminitis).

If a horse shows signs of illness or abnormal behavior, but does not have a temperature, the problem is probably not infection related. In other words, it could be an injury or a non-infection illness such as colic or laminitis. Consequently, even a normal temperature is is useful diagnostic tool, as it helps to eliminate infections (e.g. strangles) as possible causes of the problem symptoms.

If you are not experienced in taking a horse’s temperature, you should first do this with an experienced person, to minimize risk of injury to yourself or the horse. Some tips:

• An electronic thermometer is better than a glass thermometer, as it is faster and does not have the risk of breaking and associated injury. If you only have mercury thermometer available, first shake the mercury below 37.4 and take care that it does not break when inserting into or removing from the horse.
• If possible, have someone at the head end to distract the horse with a bit of food. If working on your own, consider first tying up the horse to minimize movement or risk of it running off.
• Put some lubricant on the bulb-end of the thermometer to make insertion in the rectum easier.
• Raise the tail with your left hand and insert the bulb into the rectum with your right (if you are left-handed, hold tail with right and insert with left). With mercury thermometers one needs to wait about half a minute and not remove until the mercury stops moving. With electric thermometers readings are normally quicker and depending on type it may beep to tell you that the reading is complete.
• Horses can be startled by this procedure and may kick, so one should watch and be careful of the horse. Standing slightly to one side rather than directly behind the horse is a safer position.
• Make sure that you hold onto the thermometer firmly, as otherwise movement of the sphincter muscle could draw the thermometer inside the horse.
• Wash the thermometer and if possible wipe it with alcohol (or appropriate disinfectant) to sterilize it before putting it away.

Pulse Rate

A horse’s pulse rate should be taken when it is resting, as the pulse rate during exercise or shortly thereafter is not a good indication (unless one is using pulse recovery rates and maximum pulse rates as part of a fitness evaluation). The normal pulse rate for a horse is depends on various factors such as breed (e.g. ponies tend to be faster), age and physical fitness. Consequently, it is wise to take your horse’s pulse rate when it is well and write this down, so that you know the normal pulse rate of your horse. Then, if you suspect illness, you will know the normal pulse of your horse which you can test against. If you don’t know your horse’s normal pulse rate, consider the range of 36-42 beats per minute as normal.

To take the pulse, gently press your fingers against an artery and count the number of beats. You will need a watch with a second hand to measure the time. The easiest places to feel the pulse are:

• Under the top of the lower jaw, gently pressing the artery against the underlying bone
• On the horse’s cheek, just above and behind the eye
• The inside of a foreleg, level with the knee, where the artery runs over the bone.

One can also use a stethoscope, pressed gently against an artery, to listen for the pulse rather than using one’s fingers to feel for it.

An elevated pulse rate can be associated with illness or pain (as well as exercise or fear). A high pulse rate combined with a normal temperature indicates a non-infection illness. A high pulse rate combined with a high respiration rate but a normal temperature is often associated with pain.

Respiration Rate

The resting respiration rate of an adult horse is 8-15 times per minute. This is a wide range as the normal respiration rate for an individual horse is dependent on its breed, age and general condition. Consequently, it is wise to take your horse’s respiration rate when it is well and write this down, so that you know the normal respiration of your horse, which you can then test against if at a later date you suspect illness.

The easiest way to measure a horse’s respiration is to stand behind it and watch its flanks, while timing with a watch. You may need to first move the horse into an area where it is quiet and away from other horses, as excitement or sniffing can make an accurate count difficult. Likewise, on a hot day you may need to move it out of the sun, as a hot horse breaths faster.

An elevated respiration can be associated with illness or pain (as well as exercise or fear). A high rate combined with a normal temperature indicates a non-infection illness. A high respiration rate combined with a high pulse rate but a normal temperature is often associated with pain.

Doug Stewart is the main writer on Horse Heath for a website on Horses for Sale

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Whether you live in the balmy south or frigid northern slopes, you may wonder when, or if, you should provide your horse with equine clothing. Pasture horses with easy access to shelter from wind and precipitation, whether liquid or frozen, seldom need a wardrobe to keep them comfortable and healthy. Many horses do need a little help, especially when you try to keep their winter hair coat to a minimum. Here are blanketing tips that cover most of the basics.

For horses with adequate shelter let nature handle the matter. Be sure to provide a place your horse can stay dry and out of the wind. If you have a horse that has not wintered with you before, make sure they grow an adequate hair coat. Sometimes it takes a year for a horse to get acclimated to a drastic change in climate – or from the show barn to the pasture.

Why blanket a horse?

The first thing to understand is how a horse stays warm in cold weather. The long hairs of a winter coat create an air layer providing insulation against the cold. The only reason to put a blanket on your horse is if they do not have an adequate hair coat to properly insulate. So, we blanket horses because they do not have winter coats.

Blanketing itself does little to retard hair growth. The amount of continual light the horse is under each day determines whether or not they grow a winter coat. For horses stalled under lights, blankets are necessary because the horse is prevented from growing their own insulating layer.

Don’t blanket a horse with a good winter coat

Putting a blanket on a horse with a good winter coat is actually counter-productive. The weight of the blanket lays the hair down, eliminating the loft, the air layer of natural insulation. If you know what “hat hair” is, where your hair is pasted down by the weight of your hat, that is what a blanket does to a longhaired horse. If you put a blanket on you have to leave it on until it gets warm enough for the horse to get their own coat fluffy again.

When should the blanket come off?

You must balance the amount of hair your horse has with the temperature to determine how heavy a blanket to use and when to take if off daily. For horses with thin hair coats, you may need to remove the blanket and put on a sheet to keep them comfortable during the day if it warms up. The test is to have a heavy enough cover to keep the horse warm but never hot.

When in doubt, put your hand under the blanket at the horse’s shoulder. If your horse feels warm you need to get the blanket off! Never, never let a horse sweat under a sheet or blanket.

Many times it is good to dress horses like people do, in layers. It makes sense for stalled horses with slick coats to wear a sheet under a blanket. The blanket goes on and off as the temperature changes. If you have medium weight blankets and experience an unusually cold period you can add a light sheet over your blanket to tide you over until the weather moderates. Whenever possible, every horse should have part of each day free of blankets to let them exercise and air out.

What kinds of blankets are best?

There is a huge variety of blankets available today. My favorites have a nylon lining to keep the coat slick and shiny. Kersey or wool linings tend to scuff up the hair. The three most important things to keep in mind are:

1. Proper fit (including strap adjustment)
2. Proper weight
3. Elastic straps

Blankets and sheets must fit well around the neck, not bind at the shoulder and be long enough to cover the top of the tail. I would not use any blanket without rear leg straps.

All of my blankets have been modified so they accept elastic leg straps with snap ends. The most frequent repair done to blankets is replacing rear straps. You will reduce potential injury to your horse as well as future repair bills by buying blankets with removable rear leg straps.

To fit the blanket properly be sure there isn’t pressure on the withers or that shoulders are too snug. Another frequent mistake is using a blanket or sheet with an excessively large neck opening. Loose blankets can bind up shoulders and certainly offer little protection to the chest.

If your horse will be pastured or allowed to exercise in their blanket a turnout design is the best choice. Turnout blankets have shoulder gussets that allow your horse freer movement than a blanket with a traditional cut.

Proper strap adjustment

Every horse is different, but here are a few general rules. Crossed rear leg straps help keep the blanket centered on your horse. If the blanket fits properly the leg strap should just barely miss the ground when hanging loose from the back of the horse before attaching.

Rear leg straps that are crossed will be adjusted to a different length than those that don’t cross. Straps must be loose enough for your horse to easily get up and down, but not so loose that they can catch a hock in a strap and cause serious injury. Rear leg straps made of elastic are much more forgiving if not adjusted just perfectly.

The bellyband, surcingle straps or belly strap should hang down about four inches below the horse’s belly when buckled. Again, this is a general rule. Too tight and the blanket may tear or your horse could get cut by the strap (I’ve seen serious lacerations from tight belly straps made from webbing material,) too loose and your horse could hang a hind leg in the belly strap.

Finally, keep your sheets and blankets as clean as possible and in good repair. Even if your blankets don’t get really filthy, if you don’t wash them at least a couple times a year the stitching ends up rotting and you will have to get new ones just because they weren’t cleaned often enough. Horse clothing is expensive. Elastic straps are the number one way to keep blankets in one piece and ready for the next year; washing when necessary is the second.

If you should need to blanket your horse, use that time each day as a special moment to share with your horse. Always brush off dirt and shavings before putting on your horse’s blanket, ending with a good rub. There is just something satisfying about tucking your equine partner in at the end of the day. Happy trails.

Lynn Baber is a Christian writer and retired equine professional. She shares the lessons learned in thirty-five years at the business table and round pen with her clients and readers. Highly credentialed in issues of leadership and most things equine, Lynn has a unique perspective not found elsewhere. Whether the topic is finding balance in your life or training stallions, Lynn brings years of experience to presentations and articles. Lynn latest book is scheduled for release in early 2010. For free “samples” of her new book visit http://AmazingGrays.us or Lynn’s blog at http://LynnBaber.net.

Author: Lynn Baber
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Do you have a skinny horse? If so, then the cold weather probably has you fretting over the most economical kind of horse feed to offer your horse this winter. Thin horses, often called “hard keepers” are always a challenge to feed, even in good weather, but when the weather turns cold, feeding a thin horse can rack up the feed bills fast. Here are some options you can consider to put and keep weight on your horse this winter.

Factors That Affect a Horse’s Weight

There are multiple physical and emotional factors that affect a horse’s weight, and this is especially true of the thin horse. Most horse owners probably already know about many of these factors, but I’ll cover them quickly anyway.

Teeth: If you horse has not had a float within the last year, it may be time to take him to the veterinarian or equine dentist for a checkup and float. While this will cost you a bit up front, having your horse’s teeth in good working order (without sharp points or hooks or ramps) ensures that you get the most out of every bit of feed this winter.

Calorie Needs: Be sure that your horse’s basic calorie needs are met. We’ll get into the details of what the feed later in this article, but double check that your horse is getting enough calories in his diet. A horse not in work who lives in a stall and wears a blanket during the winter obviously needs fewer calories than a horse in heavy training who lives outdoors in a run or pasture. Your horse also uses more calories in cold than in balmy weather (shivering eats up a lot of calories!).

Parasites: Check your horse’s parasite load with a fecal test. If your horse comes up negative for parasites, you may still want to consider giving a double dose of Strongid-type wormer to eliminate tapeworms, which do not appear on fecal analysis.

Stress: Stress can easily cause a horse to lose weight, and horses feel stress in a number of ways. Physical stress can appear in the form of an injury, hard training, or extreme weather conditions (such as extreme cold). Horses can feel emotional stress if their living conditions don’t match their personality. For instance, if your horse is low in the pecking order and is constantly being terrorized by his herd mates, he is bound to feel stressed. Also, if your horse is one who needs lots of room to move, keeping him in a stall or run will cause physical and emotional stress, and can even lead to nasty vices like cribbing or weaving. Horses not suited to their occupations will also feel stressed.

Horse Feed for the Thin Horse

If you have checked all of the factors above and your horse passes with flying colors, then it’s time to take a deeper look at what you are feeding him. Thin horses come in two categories: low-energy and high energy.

Horse Feed for the Low-Energy Thin Horse

If your horse is thin and has low energy, then adding calories to his diet and improving his ability to digest food will help him gain weight. You can increase his grain content by up to one pound per 100 pounds of body weight per day. Corn and barley provide more energy than oats. Pelleted senior feeds also tend to work well for thin horses. You can also add up to a cup of corn oil per day to his feed, along with alfalfa to provide extra energy and calories. If you horse is picky about eating grain but likes to eat hay, he may have ulcers that need to be addressed.

To improve your horse’s ability to digest his food, consider adding high-quality acidophilus and bifudus to his food, along with high-powered enzymes. Blue-green algae also provides a wide-spectrum of vitamins, minerals, and trace minerals to cover any nutritional gaps that may be present in his diet. I find that a packet or two of Simplexity Health’s Essentials is a good “all in one” source for acidophilus, bifidus, enzymes, and blue-green algae.

Horse Feed for the High-Energy Thin Horse

If your horse is thin and has high energy, then chances are that he loses weight through sheer nervous tension and continuous movement. To help this kind horse retain weight, the goal is to keep him calm and relaxed. This kind of horse gains weight more quickly with increased grass hay and some alfalfa. Increased grain does not seem to work as well. In addition to feeding him more calories, adding higher doses of probiotics like acidophilus and bifidus can help a lot. A healthy population of probiotics in the gut helps your horse produce B-vitamins, which results in a calmer and more relaxed horse. Simplexity Health’s Omega Sun Algae also helps many high-strung horses calm down because it positively affects the horse’s nervous system and brainwaves.

Horse Feed and the Thin Horse

Obviously no “cookie cutter” recipe of horse feed is going to work perfectly on every thin horse, but hopefully this gets you started on thinking about economical ways to feed your thin horse this winter. I have one thin horse (the low-energy kind) to feed this winter and he is already gaining weight from increased hay, alfalfa, senior feed, plus probiotics, algae, enzymes, and mangosteen juice (my special “horse goo” recipe). He’s living high on the hog… and loving every minute of it!

What about you? Do you need to rethink your horse’s diet?

Author: Stephanie H. Yeh
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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When choosing a boarding facility for your horse, you must first decide on the type of stabling you require. The main types are:

Full Board. Full board includes all the routine items normally required by a horse. The monthly fee covers the facilities (stall, paddock/pasture), materials (bedding, food), and labor (mucking out, feeding, keeping an eye on the horse’s health). Additional services which might be provided include: regular brushing down of the horse, periodic shower, exercising.

Partial Board. In this case the stable manager provides stall space (a box), along with paddock and/or pasture. However, caring for the horse is the responsibility of the horse owner rather than the stable manager. One needs to consider what happens if you are unable from time to time (e.g. work commitments, family crisis, away on holiday) to perform all the daily requirements. Do you need to find a friend to do these or will the stable manager do them for you? In the latter case, what are the additional fees?

Pasture Board. Pasture is simply a fenced in area. It provides food (grass) for the horses and exercise. There are normally a number of horses on each pasture, providing a social group. This is usually the least expensive type of stabling, as there are no stalls to clean and no bedding is provided. However, it is not suitable for all horses (e.g. old, sick or weak horses), especially during very hot or very cold weather.

Pasture Access and Quality

Except for short rest periods, horses generally prefer to spend as much time as possible on pasture rather than in their stalls. The amount of access they have to pasture each day and the quality of the pasture will largely determine how happy and healthy they are. When evaluating the pasture for your stabled horse, factors to consider include:

• Quality and quantity of grass. Too little grass or poor quality grass and your horse may not have enough to eat. Alternatively, if it is too rich, your horse runs the risk of laminitis.
• Physical Safety. The fencing should not have holes or breaks, as this could allow your horse to wander off into danger. Electrical wire is normally safer than high-tension wire (which can cut and even main your horse if he gets tangled in it) or barbed wire (which can cause injuries). The fields should be clean of any objects which could injure the horses (e.g. pieces of broken fencing wire which has been left about can tangle around a horse’s legs and cause serious injuries).
• Maintenance. Are the fence posts solid (not rotten, not loose in the ground)? Are fence boards in good condition and without protruding nails? Is fencing wire taut (not sagging or lying on the ground)? Is the amount of horse droppings on the ground not excessive?
• Weeds. Certain weeds are toxic to horses. Depending on the weed, it can cause immediate or long-term health issues. If the pasture is weedy, check that none of them are of a poisonous variety.
• Size. A substantial pasture provides more mental stimulation, greater emotional satisfaction and more exercise opportunities.
• Shelter. Is there adequate shelter on the pastures for all the horses? Note that strong horses will often bully weaker horses away from shelters, so a generous amount of shelter is required if all the horses are to benefit.
• Drainage. Is the pasture well drained, or do pools of water form during wet weather? Standing in water can be very bad for horse hooves.
• Other Horses. A horse is a herd animal and consequently requires the companionship of other horses. However, it is important that all the horses in a given pasture are compatible, to avoid excessive fighting or bullying.

Paddock

Many stables have limited pasture access, but provide a paddock instead. Although pasture access is preferable, a good paddock can be a reasonable substitute. Factors to consider when evaluating the paddock facilities include:

• Size. A horse will prefer a large paddock to a small one. If the horse has substantial access to pasture then the size of the paddock is much less important than the case where the horse has no access or only limited access to pasture.
• Access. A paddock which is freely accessible to the horse (e.g. through an open door from its stall) will be of greater value to a horse than a paddock to which it has only limited access.
• Construction. The paddock should be secure and should have a suitable surface. Most surfaces (sand, wood chips or gravel) are satisfactory for a horse with good hooves. However, a horse with hoof problems may require a softer surface (e.g. sand, wood chips).
• Sharing. There is nothing wrong with a shared paddock, provided that all the horses get along and there is no bullying. However, if there are conflicts between the horses, individual paddocks are often more suitable.

Stall

In almost all stables (unless one has opted for pasture boarding), the horse will spend a considerable amount of time in its stall and in many stables the horse will spend the majority of each day in its stall. Consequently, this aspect of your prospective stable needs to be carefully evaluated in terms of:

• Size. The size of the stall is very important, especially if a horse spends a substantial amount of time in its stall each day. A small stall is physically uncomfortable and forces a horse to lie down in its own excrement as there is no additional place available. The minimum size for a stall is a matter of debate, but we recommend at least 3m by 3m for a standard size horse and at least 3.5m by 3.5m for a large horse.
• Height. Are the stall doors high enough that if a horse runs in with its head up, there is no risk of injury? Are the ceilings high enough that a horse cannot hit its head?
• Safety. Is the stall safe? Does it have any protruding nails, wood slivers or metal bits that the horse could injure itself on? Are the walls and door solid enough that a horse cannot kick through (if it can kick through, it can injure its leg, or become trapped and breaks its leg).
• Cleaning. The stall should be clean, dry and not smell (in particular, not smell of ammonia). Stalls should be cleaned at least once per day; twice if the horse spends the majority of the day in its stall.
• Ventilation. Does the air smell clean, or does it smell damp or musty or stale? If the stable is closed at night and opened for airing in the morning, the best time to check (if possible) is just before the stable is opened for airing as this is the time when ventilation issues will be easiest to detect.
• Pests. Are there any indications of rodents or excessive insects in the stall areas? If so, this is an indication of problems.
• Time. A horse which spends most of its day in the stall is receiving less physical and mental exercise than one which has substantial access to paddock and pasture. However, young horses (and very old horses) often appreciate a few hours alone in their stable each day so that they can sleep and relax in peace.
• Bedding. The type and thickness of bedding is important to the mental and physical well-being of the horse.
• Water. Horses should have free access to water and most stalls are equipped with drinkers for this purpose. Care should be taken that the pipes do not freeze during cold weather, depriving the horses of water.
• Salt and Minerals. Horses require salt and minerals. These are normally provided in the stalls, although a few stable managers provide them on pasture instead.
• Lighting. Plentiful natural light is better for your horse’s physical and emotional health. A dark stall is depressing for a horse and tends to promote unhealthy fungus and mold growth.

Food and Water

The quality of food and water varies greatly from one stable to another. As food is one of the major costs for stable owners, the tendency is to reduce both the quality and quantity in order to make the stabling business more profitable. Points to consider:

• Quality. What are the horses fed? Are the hay and food supplements of high quality, or just the cheapest available?
• Quantity. Do the horses get all the food they need, or is there a quota (e.g. only 1kg of food supplement/horse/day)?
• Frequency. How often are the horses fed? It should be at least twice a day and preferably more (access to quality pasture qualifies as a feed).
• Water. Do the horse have adequate access to clean water
• Buckets. Are the food and water buckets kept clean? Is old food removed each day and the buckets cleaned out well, or simply new food dropped on top?

General

One needs to consider how the stable is run and how the horses are treated. Here one needs to look around at:

• The owner/manager. He (or she) sets the standards and general tone for the stables.
  • Talk with him about his experiences with horses and with running a stable. Does he give an impression of experience, ability and dedication?
  • Ask what he thinks of your horse and what special care it might require; if the stable manager takes the time to carefully examine the horse (including hooves and teeth) before answering this is a good sign but if he replies after only a cursory examination then one may wish to go to a stable where the manager is more attentive.
  • Ask if he has any objection to using your own veterinarian and farrier. Even if you are happy to use his, one might be concerned if he does not permit other vets and farriers.
• Horses. The appearance of the horses is a good indication of how they are treated. Are they overweight or underweight? Do they have shiny coats? Do they appear alert, active and happy? Do they appear nervous or have nervous behavior (e.g. pacing, swaying back and forth, chewing on wood)? Are they well-groomed? Pick up the hooves of a couple of horses to see it they are well maintained and appear to have been recently cleaned.
• Stalls. Are the stalls clean and tidy? Check not only the bedding but also the drinkers, feeders, and salt/mineral trays. Do all the horses have salt and minerals?
• General Facilities. How do the various facilities look? Do they appear clean, organized and well maintained? A lack of consideration for the facilities can be an indication of broader issues.
• Staff Behavior. How do the staff behave around the horses. Do they appear interested in the horses? Do they talk to the horses and treat them gently, or just drag them along behind them? Do they appear mature, experience and knowledgeable (or just cheap labor, however loving and well-intentioned they may be)?
• Other Clients. If you have the opportunity, talk to other horse owners to get their impression and experience of the stables. However, don’t put too much trust in this, as they may be friends of the stable manager or they may be novices who are not experienced enough to make a reliable judgment.
• Local Veterinarian. Like other clients, it can be useful to ask the local veterinarian his opinion.
• Vaccinations. Does the stable manager require vaccination against communicable diseases? If not, this may be a health risk for your horse.
• Deworming. Are all the horses on site dewormed? Are they all dewormed at the same time? If the answer to either question is ‘no’, then the effectiveness of worming your horse may be significantly reduced.
• Access. How much access do you have to your horse and facilities (e.g. training ring) which you may wish to use? Can you drop in unannounced to see your horse and its stall at any time, or is an appointment required (the latter is a bad sign).

Author: Doug M Stewart
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: WordPress plugin Guest Blogger

The weather in the UK is extremely unpredictable at the moment with clear blue skies and sunshine just as likely as blustery winds and rain. One thing is for certain though, the winter weather will soon kick in and your horse will take a bit more looking after than it does in the summer months.

Preparing the horse for the winter is essential and here is how you can do it. Horses are fortunate in that they are naturally tolerant to colder weather. In fact, horses cope better in the cold than in the heat. However, keeping your horse healthy during the winter takes care and attention. Be sure to check for any parasites and get your horse immunised as quickly as possible so to keep it safe and healthy.

Vets are great to consult with as you can set up a health plan for your horse to help it through the winter. Fully preparing the horse for the winter will mean that it won’t need to eat as much food which will save you some money, the health plan should aim to keep the horse at a stable weight as a horse should never lose weight over the winter. In fact, it is best to allow the horse to gain a bit of weight to help it through the cold weather and will provide energy for your horse if it becomes stressed.

When it is allowed to grow, a horse’s natural winter coat will reduce the amount of heat lost in the horse and acts a brilliant coat. This happens to be the best protection for the horse and again, costs you nothing as long as you look after the horse and prepare it well for the upcoming winter months.

During the winter you should regularly check the condition of your horse. Its ribs are a good tell tale sign of its health as you should not be able to see them but underneath its winter coat you should be able to feel them. If you can see them through the coat then it has lost too much weight and you will have to seek advice or alter the horse’s health plan.

To see if the horse is too cold then simply feel its ears as this will tell you whether it’s too cold or not. Horses are warm-blooded animals which means in order to survive they must maintain a specific body temperature. During the winter do all you can to ensure your horse conserves as much heat as possible and check its condition daily to keep it healthy.

Horses are fascinating animals and as such items such as horse riding clothes are a popular purchase in the equestrian field.

Clothes amongst other horse riding equipment are widely available online where you can find the most competitive deals around.