Posts Tagged ‘bridle’

There are great pleasures in owning horses and there are some not so pleasant chores that need to be done. Some people opt to have their veterinarians handle the chore of sheath/udder cleaning, which is fine. However, you need to make sure your horse is taught to accept the cleaning process before the vet arrives. Most mare owners decide to take on udder cleaning themselves, as udders are simple to maintain. Alternately, gelding owners can have a more daunting task.

You may want the veterinarian to start you out or at least give you guidelines on sheath cleaning such as the frequency, best cleanser to use or tricks he may have to make this job and maintenance between cleanings easier. If you wonder about the importance of such a task, I have heard stories of horses that have gotten urinary infections, maggot infestations, and sheath infections from neglect. Therefore, it may seem tedious, but it can save you a lot of real agony if you let it go unchecked.

If you have already tried this task to no avail then try these exercises to get your horse accepting the procedure. You will want to take your horse to an enclosed area, such as a round pen or arena. You can stay in his stall if it is free of any protrusions that your horse could get hurt on. What you are going to do is sack out your horse with your hand. You can do this with the halter on if you feel you have enough control or a bridle with a full cheek snaffle and continuous rope reins if you need more control.

Start by approaching your horse and rubbing his face and then walk away making a ‘V’ shape in front of him. Turn back around and have your horse take at least one step toward you. Continue this approach and retreat technique continuing down your horses’ sides. When you get to and beyond the horse’s shoulder, you should keep the horse’s head facing the same side you are on. This way if the horse tries to kick you can bring his nose toward you with the lead rope or rein and that will take his hip away from you. Alternate sides and go over every inch of your horses’ body, saving the problem area for last. Always keep yourself in a safe position to avoid being kicked if your horse should have a strong reaction.

If you find other places your horse is not comfortable with you touching, you will want to stay working on that point until he is. You will run your hand over the area as quickly as you can without frightening the horse, but fast enough that your hand is gone before the horse reacts. Then you will gradually slow your hand down on each approach until the horse is good with your hand resting on the spot. If you cannot get to the spot then run your hand to the point you think he will leave and take your hand off just before that. Then gradually get closer each approach.

When your horse is comfortable with being touched everywhere but the sheath/udder area, you are ready to start working this area. You will treat it the same way as you did the rest of the horse but with extreme caution as you will be an easy target for kicking. If your horse is a bad kicker, you will want to work on more exercises that address the kicking before continuing with this exercise.

We will start on the left side of the horse. You will take the rein/lead in your left hand and as much as possible, keep your body by the horse’s shoulder as if to mount. This will keep you the safest if the horse decides to kick out to the side. You will bring your horses’ head as much to the left with the left hand as you can without the horse stepping to the right with its hip. You will then take your right hand, begin sacking out the belly area, and work back to the sheath/udder. Do not try to leave your hand there if the horse is not comfortable. Do as before and take your hand away before the horse reacts and slowly build up the amount of time you leave your hand at the sheath/udder.

When the horse is comfortable with your hand, you can introduce the water. Make sure it is warm water to start; we do not want to surprise the horse with cold water at this point. If you will be using gloves and sponge, introduce these as you did your hand. Never assume the horse will be good with them because he was good with your hand. Always keep yourself in a safe position when introducing something new. For the sheath, you will want to introduce the water to the inside and outside of the sheath. Some horses will be fine until you try to clean the inside so be sure to keep the horses’ head to the side you are on and keep yourself up by the shoulder as much as possible.

When the horse is comfortable with being touched in this area by water and your hand, you can either continue and complete the washing lessons or leave the rest to the veterinarian. If you choose to clean your horses’ sheath, it may be a good idea to have your vet go over all the details and possibly show you how to get the sheath completely clean.

When the horse accepts the water, you can introduce the cleanser. Again, do not just dive in; only do as much at one time as the horse is comfortable with adding a little more each time. As soon as your horse understands you are not going to hurt him, he should relax. There are many good sheath-cleaning products on the market or you can simply cover your gloved hand with baby oil and slowly work your way into the sheath applying the oil liberally as you go. The baby oil will help loosen any caked on dirt and debris and can be left without washing off. Alternatively, you can allow it to set for a few minutes then use a bucket of warm water and sheath cleaner to wash it out. Then get a bucket or hose with warm water and rinse it well. Be sure to purchase a cleanser that will not irritate the horse if you cannot get it completely rinsed.

Whether you take on the task yourself or call the veterinarian, it is you responsibility to learn how often your horse needs to be cleaned. Each horse is different but try to have it done at least four times a year; some need it done once a month. If you will provide your horse with this service you will not only add to his comfort and health, you will also have a happier partner.

Jodi Wilson is a recognized authority on the subject of horse training and has spent almost 30 years developing training techniques and solutions for horse owners no matter the discipline or breed.

Jodi is an Accredited Josh Lyons trainer, and is Certified in John Lyons training techniques. Her website, http://Jodi-Wilson.com, provides a wealth of information to improve the relationship between horse and rider. Jodi is also available for clinics and demonstrations as well as lessons, apprenticeships, and horse training.

Jodi has trained and competed in Reining, Sorting, Jumping, Dressage, English and Western Pleasure, Trail and Problem Solving.

Author: Jodi M Wilson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: PCB Prototype & Manufacturing

One of the best ways to get started training a young horse or any horse for that matter is at liberty in the round pen. First-what do we mean by “at liberty”? All that means is that we remove all control and training aids from the horse-so that there’s no halter, bridle, or lead/lunge line. Aside from being inside the round pen, the horse is basically free. A bridle or halter, of course, doesn’t really matter, what’s important here is severing direct control between the handler (you) and the horse.

Why is it that round pen training is so effective when training a young horse?

If done correctly, round pen training allows you to build leadership and trust with your horse in a fundamental way that he naturally understands. And this can be done in an essentially safe environment-something that’s really important to keep in mind. Safety should always be your priority with equines. The less training a horse has, the more control we need to maintain safety. And when training a young horse it turns out a round pen is just what the doctor ordered. When done at liberty, the horse is free to move and work through his fears without feeling panicked or confined-even though in reality the horse is confined, by the virtue of being in a round pen he can move off from a scary stimulus if he chooses to do so. Now nothing is perfect-and there will be occasions when a horse feels panicked in a round pen or even escapes-I’ve seen that happen. But in the vast majority of cases, a round pen will safely confine a horse-while giving him the ability to freely move.

Earlier we mentioned that round pen training is really effective when training a young horse. And in fact its a great tool to use when starting any horse. Let’s see why in more detail.

The first reason is that a round pen produces a setting within which it is pretty easy to establish leadership-a vital step in training a young horse. This is due to the way that horses naturally establish their heirarchy in a herd (wild or otherwise). Every group of horses that lives together has a hierarchical structure and every horse knows his rank. One thing you will see dominant horses doing is making the other horses move around. I once herd a phrase that sums this up: control the feet, control the horse. In the round pen, you mimic this behavior by controlling the movement of your equine in four basic ways:

• You tell him when to move
• You tell him what direction to move
• You tell him how fast to move
• You decide when he can come to a stop

Even better-by working at liberty you’re going to be controlling the movement of your horse using energy and body language. So its all going to seem quite natural to the horse-and he will instinctively see you as his trusted leader. Another aspect of working at liberty is that you are also building communications-another vital step in training a young horse successfully. Your communication skills which you start off in the round pen will carry over to riding-by applying pressure to the appropriate spots on the horse. In the round pen, when working at liberty, you learn to apply pressure with energy and body language. This makes the round pen not just valuable to your animal-it makes it a great training school for you too! If you are able to master communication with your horse using only energy and body language-think about how effective you’ll be when riding and using your reins and legs. You will be able to talk to your horse from the saddle light as can be.

As one specific example, if you want your horse to move out while in the round pen focus your energy and body language on his hip area. At first, you will need a tool to help out-but you should have good success without actually touching the horse as time goes on. Suppose you keep a lead rope with you. You can swing the lead rope in the direction of the hip, without actually striking the horse to ask him to move out. But what you should really be thinking about is focusing your gaze on the top of his hip-and directing energy there. Focus your gaze on the spot where you would actually tap the horse with your crop if you were using that method.

If the horse doesn’t respond, and he may not the first few times, then up the volume. Swing the rope more vigorously, and then let it strike the ground. If the horse still doesn’t move, then at this point direct contact may be necessary. But you will find with practice that less direct contact is required.

Don’t be discouraged if you don;t have complete success at first-nobody becomes a horse whisperer in a day. Keep practicing! With time you will find you need less actual contact with your horses to get them to do what you ask. Round pen training is a great place to start training a young horse or a horse you don’t know, to brush up with an old horse or to just work on your own equine communication skills.

David McMahon is a freelance author who is owned by 3 horses. For more information, please visit Gentle natural horsemanship.

Author: David McMahon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Having a horse is fun, but a major responsibility, so be thorough on your research of barns to board it at. It pays to choose a place that is close to where you live, has facilities that are well maintained and most importantly, gives its horses proper care and nutrition. Each barn has its own atmosphere, is it one you can live with? If you want to participate in horse shows, it may be a good idea to choose a barn that frequents the kinds of shows you want to be in. If you live in a cold climate, make sure the barn has a large indoor arena for winter riding.

Do you ride English or Western? If English is your thing, then make sure your barn has jumps available, and/or a dressage ring. I ride English, and my barn had a top show trainer in it, so if I needed to prepare for a show, he was there to critique my riding during lessons. I liked boarding my horse at a place with a competent, experienced trainer, one that took the time to explain the exercises and gave me quality instruction. Since I spent most of my money at this sport, I wanted to make sure I was doing everything right.

If you ride Western, make sure there are trails to ride on nearby your barn. And again, find a barn that has a trainer suited to your style of riding in order to get the proper instruction. Once you find a barn you like, whatever style you ride, spend time taking lessons there before buying a horse, just to get a feel of the place. If you haven’t found a horse yet, trainers can assist you in looking. Ask around, and tell them how much you are looking to spend on your first horse. Another great way to find a horse is during the summer, many young horse owners are getting ready to go off to college and need to sell their animal fast. This is a good bargaining time, if the seller is motivated, you may talk the price down on his horse. Have them throw in the tack (saddle, bridle, etc) too, as part of the bargain. When I sold my horse to go to college, I gladly gave the buyers (a well maintained show barn) all my tack since I knew he was going to be in good hands. It pays to ask about the tack, to save on money, since having a horse is very expensive any way you look at it.

Make sure the horse is healthy before committing to buying it. This is incredibly important. Make sure to have a vet look it over, and tell you what condition he is in. Are his legs sound? Has he ever been lame? Has he had all his shots, and is he disease-free? Also, make sure there are no growths on his ears. A friend of mine bought an expensive show horse, only to find out he had skin cancer on one of his ears. One of his ears had to be partially removed, it was really sad. Make sure the animal is completely sound and has a personality you can live with.

One way to try out horse ownership is to lease a horse from its owner. Most barns have horses that are up for lease, you can even get a half or quarter lease sometimes. Then, you help with the bills of the horse, but are not fully responsible for it. You work out with the owner, and anyone who may be sharing the lease with you, what days you will ride. That is a great solution if you have limited time, because owning a horse, even when boarded at a show stable, is still very time consuming. You must groom, saddle, ride, unsaddle, wash then clean its feet every time you ride. And, I used to let my horse out into the paddocks and wait for him to have fun kicking up his heels every day, instead of paying extra to have the trainer do it for me. I spent at least four hours every afternoon at my stable since he was my full responsibility, I owned him so his well-being was totally up to me alone. The barn workers fed the horses, mucked stalls and kept the grounds up. I kept the horse clean, healthy and happy, as well as my tack spotlessly maintained.

Keep in mind, horses have other bills that must be paid, such as vet bills (worming, shots, etc) and farrier (horseshoes, hoof trimming, etc). These must be done on a regular schedule and not ignored. Taking good care of your horse’s feet is of major importance so never skimp on cleaning or trimming them. Also, buy shampoo and other grooming products online to save money. If you don’t have a locker in your barn, get a caddy to hold your grooming supplies, and keep it in the back of your car. Leaving it out in the open at the barn invites trouble, in the form of others “borrowing” things and forgetting to put them back, so it’s best to have a locking trunk or keep the caddy in the back of your car.

If you plan to show your horse, ask your barn how much they charge to use their horse trailer. Most barns will haul the horse for you, for the asking, as long as they have enough trailer space for all the horses going to the show. Showing is addictive. Start at a small, local show and see how you like it. Then, if you do well and enjoy yourself, work your way up to bigger shows. Going to a horse show is a enjoyable family event. Many people bring picnics to watch the show as their children ride. If you win a prize, it’s a bonus, but do it for the sheer pleasure of it all. If you show, make sure to wear the appropriate clothing and boots. Advance preparation of both the rider and horse is the key to a successful day of horse showing.

Once you and your horse are settled in and know each other, you will make a good team and build on your experiences together. Bring him treats, talk to him and give kind approval so he learns to trust you. My horse used to whinny whenever he saw me walking towards him. We were buddies and I used to make him carrot cake every New Year’s Day (he was a Thoroughbred and all registered Thoroughbreds share the birthday of January first, whether they were born on that day or not). He plowed through that cake in minutes flat and looked for more. We were a great team and I’ll never forget him. These little things make the relationship you have with your horse all the more special. Owning a horse is a special privelege so enjoy each and every day with him. Grow together, learn new things, and both your lives will be enriched and happy. I highly recommend it.

Author: Carolyn McFann
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Lots of riders are confused about how to smoothly switch their long dressage whip from one hand to the other. Many of you tell me you feel awkward while doing this, and you’re concerned about making your horse uncomfortable and disturbing the contact because you’re twisting the bit in your his mouth.

Here’s a step-by-step method to switch your dressage whip without disturbing the contact with your horse’s mouth. I recommend practicing this technique at first with your bridle on a hook or by looping a piece of rope around a fence and pretending the rope is the two reins.

That way you can practice the method enough so that it becomes automatic rather than mechanical. You’ll need to do quite a few repetitions in a left-brained, mechanical way before this skill gets turned over to the right side of the brain where you don’t even have to think about it. So that’s why it’s a good idea to practice when you’re not on your horse.

1. Put both reins and the whip in the same hand.For example, put both reins and the whip in your right hand.

2. Turn your right hand so your thumb is facing down and your baby finger is pointed up. With your hand in this position, the butt end of the whip points toward the withers and the lash of the whip points straight toward the sky.

3. Now, turn your left hand upside down so your left thumb is on top of your right baby finger.

4. With your left hand in that “upside down” position, curl your fingers around the whip.

5. Use your left hand to pull the whip straight up toward the sky. (Your whip is now in your left hand and the two reins are in your right hand.)

6. Separate your reins so you have one in each hand.

You’ve now switched your dressage whip without twisting the bit in your horse’s mouth or scaring him by pulling it up across his withers.

Author: Jane Savoie
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Mobile device news

As an owner of a riding horse, you know there is much more to it than fun. There is a lot of responsibility involved in owning such an animal, such as buying and fitting your horse with the best quality tack horse equipment, which are the accessories that make riding on the horse and controlling it possible. Horse tack equipment items, such as the saddle, the bridle, the bit, and so on, each have a purpose and each one is indispensable. Among the two types of horse tack, the Western and the English, the former is preferred mainly because it is simpler to use and maintain.

Buying and owning a horse is a great investment and responsibility. The quality of the equipment you use will determine the quality of your rides and the comfort of the horse during your rides. Therefore, there should be no compromise whatsoever when you buy horse tack equipment for your animal. If you are low on finances, then you could always buy everything you need from the pre-owned market. In fact, a good number of people choose this market to get equipment at a fraction of the cost of new, and the bonus is that it does not need to be broken in.

The saddle is one of the most important pieces of tack horse equipment. You need to pay extra attention to the saddle because it is critical for comfort, for both you and the horse. Any mismatch could result in acute discomfort or even death, if the horse reacts and throw you off. The bit is another important part of horse tack equipment. Horses generally do not like the bit, but it is vital to control the animal. Additionally, be careful to allow the horse sufficient time to become accustomed to the bit.

Overall, you need to ensure that the tack horse equipment you get is not only the best possible quality but also an impeccable fit to the horse. You need to ensure that the horse is totally comfortable with the saddle, bridle and other items because this is what will determine the quality and comfort of your ride. It is vital that you allow the horse sufficient time to get used to you, if you are a new owner, as well as to the tack you use before you ride it on a regular basis.

Taking care of a horse is not as easy as one may think. Your horse’s health, shelter, food and horse tack supplies are all very important things to consider, with regard to the care of these giant animals. Tack supplies include bridles, crops, brushes, horse shoes, saddles, and a whole lot more, and because there are so many types and brands of tack supplies available today, choosing the right ones can get confusing. Here is a guide on how to choose the right supplies for your horse.

Bridles are one of the most essential horse tack items that you, as a rider, should have. These are used to communicate with your horse. Normally, the most common is the dressage bridle that can fit over the head of the horse and onto his mouth. The reins go back to the rider who uses them to command and control the horse. Horse bridles vary in quality and price, and by standard these bridles should be made of high-quality leather.

Avoid buying poor quality leather as they will crack easily and wear over time, which is not ideal, especially during harsh weather. Check the reins and the cheek-pieces and make sure they are reinforced. The buckles should also be made from stainless steel to avoid rusting. When buying horse bridles, the best advice is to visit a reputable manufacturer that will provide you with some sort of warranty on the product, so you can return them should they not function effectively.

Saddles are very important; not to mention highly expensive horse tack supplies. Basically, there are three types of horse saddles: the Western saddles, English saddles and the side-saddles. Additionally, Western saddles have varied types, including the roping saddle, the endurance saddle, and the barrel racing saddle; while English saddles have the dressage saddle, the polo saddle, and the jumping saddles. Ideally, saddles are made with genuine pure leather. But the more common ones sold these days are those made of suede or synthetic leather. Since there are a lot of options, have a professional horse-care expert with you when you shop.

Another essential in the genre of horse tack supplies are horse boots, which will protect the legs of your horse. In choosing the right horse boots, make sure to go for those that are sturdy, well-constructed and comfortable. When chosen properly, these boots can last up to several years. If you own a horse, and horsemanship is important to you, then it is paramount to provide them with their basic needs. The right horse saddles, horse boots, or horse bridles are but some of the most important things you need for your horse.