Posts Tagged ‘bridle’

Your horse runs over you or crowds you. He bites. Or maybe balks, bucks, or tosses his head. He won’t take the bridle, and he rears, runs away and bolts.

If any of these describe your horse, then you’re dealing with bad horse behavior. While each of these problems can have their own specific solutions, it turns out that by applying some very general but effective horse training principles, we can go a long way toward eliminating all of these problems.

When it comes to horse behavior, many problems can be reduced to one of two issues with the horse. If a horse is acting badly he is either:

1. Afraid (acting out of fear)
2. Dominant (acting in a way that disrespects you)

We can get around both problems by being an effective leader for our horse. If we are a strong and effective yet compassionate leader, our horse will not be afraid because he knows he can trust us. And if we are a strong and effective leader, a dominance-minded horse won’t be naughty with us. This can be done with proper ground training.

These days there are a myriad of ground training techniques. But its possible to identify a few key items you should be using on every horse that will help establish leadership. Here are five key methods that produce all around general results regardless of the type or horse you have or his disposition, or what type of “bad horse behavior” he is showing:

1. Lead your horse properly. When leading a horse on the ground, you’re not just walking from place to place-you’re using body language to communicate with your horse on multiple levels. By leading him properly, we can show the horse that we are a confident leader to be trusted-and someone that he must follow. A confident leader is one worthy of being followed-this helps build confidence in the horse that is afraid and shows a dominant horse that he is not the leader-you are.
2. At-Liberty Round-Pen Training. A great way to become a leader for your horse is to utilize at-liberty training in the round pen. By mimicking the behavior of the dominant horse in the herd, we can establish leadership in a way that not only speaks to the horse in a way he naturally understands, but in a way that gets rid of many problems like crowding, balking, being hard to catch, kicking, and biting.
3. Back Your Horse Up. Yes, backing up is a simple exercise, but it can be made challenging as well as basic. Not only that, its a sure fire way to build up trust with your horse, and to also show leadership by asking him to walk backwards where he can’t see.
4. Flexing. By practicing flexing on the ground, you train your horse to respond lightly to the reins and teach him how to respond to an emergency stop.
5. Get and Keep the Attention of Your Horse. If you’re the trusted leader of your horse-he is going to pay attention to you at all times. Simple exercises can be performed with your horse during groundwork training that make this automatic.

Building a solid horse training foundation with groundwork will allow you to eliminate fear, and prevent a horse from dominating you. by putting in some extra effort now, you can have a sfae and fun riding experience later.

David McMahon is a free lance author who owns 3 horses and writes about horse training issues. For more information please visit Mastering Basic Groundwork (Horse Training) [http://nmhorse.com/Basic_Groundwork.html].

Author: David McMahon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Your horse runs over you or crowds you. He bites. Or maybe balks, bucks, or tosses his head. He won’t take the bridle, and he rears, runs away and bolts.

If any of these describe your horse, then you’re dealing with bad horse behavior. While each of these problems can have their own specific solutions, it turns out that by applying some very general but effective horse training principles, we can go a long way toward eliminating all of these problems.

When it comes to horse behavior, many problems can be reduced to one of two issues with the horse. If a horse is acting badly he is either:

1. Afraid (acting out of fear)
2. Dominant (acting in a way that disrespects you)

We can get around both problems by being an effective leader for our horse. If we are a strong and effective yet compassionate leader, our horse will not be afraid because he knows he can trust us. And if we are a strong and effective leader, a dominance-minded horse won’t be naughty with us. This can be done with proper ground training.

These days there are a myriad of ground training techniques. But its possible to identify a few key items you should be using on every horse that will help establish leadership. Here are five key methods that produce all around general results regardless of the type or horse you have or his disposition, or what type of “bad horse behavior” he is showing:

1. Lead your horse properly. When leading a horse on the ground, you’re not just walking from place to place-you’re using body language to communicate with your horse on multiple levels. By leading him properly, we can show the horse that we are a confident leader to be trusted-and someone that he must follow. A confident leader is one worthy of being followed-this helps build confidence in the horse that is afraid and shows a dominant horse that he is not the leader-you are.
2. At-Liberty Round-Pen Training. A great way to become a leader for your horse is to utilize at-liberty training in the round pen. By mimicking the behavior of the dominant horse in the herd, we can establish leadership in a way that not only speaks to the horse in a way he naturally understands, but in a way that gets rid of many problems like crowding, balking, being hard to catch, kicking, and biting.
3. Back Your Horse Up. Yes, backing up is a simple exercise, but it can be made challenging as well as basic. Not only that, its a sure fire way to build up trust with your horse, and to also show leadership by asking him to walk backwards where he can’t see.
4. Flexing. By practicing flexing on the ground, you train your horse to respond lightly to the reins and teach him how to respond to an emergency stop.
5. Get and Keep the Attention of Your Horse. If you’re the trusted leader of your horse-he is going to pay attention to you at all times. Simple exercises can be performed with your horse during groundwork training that make this automatic.

Building a solid horse training foundation with groundwork will allow you to eliminate fear, and prevent a horse from dominating you. by putting in some extra effort now, you can have a sfae and fun riding experience later.

David McMahon is a free lance author who owns 3 horses and writes about horse training issues. For more information please visit Mastering Basic Groundwork (Horse Training) [http://nmhorse.com/Basic_Groundwork.html].

Author: David McMahon
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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When you are riding, one vitally important component is your seat. In this article, I would like to look at the seat and how important it is to make sure you are relaxed and confident, to assist in your perfect seat.

Just close your eyes for a moment and I want you to imagine your perfect seat. What does it look like to you? I want you to picture yourself as if you are looking at yourself. So how do you look? Are you still, poised and elegant? What are you ankles doing? Your thighs? Your stomach? Then I want you to step into your body and feel how it feels to have a perfect seat. How it feels to move with your horse in motion and go with the movement. What do you hear, what do you see and what do you feel?

Ok so “how????” I can hear you screaming at me!

Well, good question, but let’s first look at why?

To me seat is the single most important tool when riding a horse. When I am working with a client seat is at the fore front of my mind all the time. Lets say I have a client coming to me saying “my horse doesn’t keep his head still or stay to the contact,” I could talk about driving to the bit and engaging behind and riding the hind leg and I do… but I am also thinking are the hands still enough for the horse to comfortably and easily go into the bridle and stay steady on the contact. Still hands are vital for a horses head to be still. The hands can only be still if the seat is sufficiently developed to keep the balance, and not rely on the hands for balance.

The seat is also the core to effective dressage riding. You know when you watch the top riders and you are staring really hard… and you still can’t see them doing anything!!! And the horse is dancing underneath them. Well that’s riding with seat. Where you can go with the horse and influence the horse with your body. It’s almost like your thoughts become his and your back becomes his back.

So there are three keys to a perfect seat:

1. Balance – you must have balance first. You must be able to sit in the center of the saddle and not have to rely on anything to grip or get tight to stay in the centre of the movement.
2. Relaxation - to have a supple back that can swing with the horse you must be relaxed and not tight. The biggest mistakes trainers make is when they say shoulders back, or heels down, the rider if they are very eager will force their heels down or shoulders back using all the muscles they have to achieve this. This results in tight tired muscles and is not the point of a supple seat – the rider will never have the ability to go with the horse. Muscles must always be supple. Now that doesn’t mean soft and not engaged as the muscles do need to work. But with relaxation! I know it’s a paradox! Aren’t most things in riding?!?!?! When I am assisting clients with this I ask them to think of holding a glass of water, now hold it too tight with all the muscle strength you have in your hand and the glass will break, completely relax your hand and the glass will drop and break. There is a muscle tension in the middle ground that is enough to hold the glass. It’s the same for riding. Enough tension to keep you in the movement but not too much that you will become tight, rigid and blocked.
3. Going with the horse’s movement – you must be able to go with the horse and not be left behind. It’s about being the leader, always knowing what will happen next and being ready for it. This means you must have a braced back and an engaged core.

Once you have developed your perfect seat you can then use your seat to influence the horse, slow and quicken it only with seat and turn and perform lateral movements with your seat in conjunction with your legs and reins.

So remember relaxation is so important. It’s a must. If you are worried about falling, you will be gripping and be tight and your seat can’t go with the horse. If you are not balanced you will grip to stay on and your seat can’t go with the horse.

So work on your balance in the saddle, make sure you stay relaxed and supple with positive muscle tension and then allow your body to go with the horse. This is where riding in your mind can help. You can only do so many hours in the saddle practicing but you can do many more hours in your head. The best thing is in your head you never make a mistake and your unconscious mind can’t tell the difference between real and imagined, so all those neural connections are strengthened even if your not on the horse!

To your success,

Natasha

Natasha Althoff-Kelley
http://yourridingsuccess.com
Visit my website for your free 7 Keys to Your Riding Success – providing you with more advice and videos to assist you in your riding journey

Author: Natasha Althoff-Kelley
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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If this is going to be the first horse you own, make sure you know how much money you have to spend on the horse. A horse is an expensive animal to purchase, say nothing of the whole hobby of horse ownership. Read through the segments below to help you calculate the costs you can expect to incur. Research, then type up the costs of these products and services in your area. Make sure the total amount fits into your budget. Also, bear in mind the results you compile are likely to vary between states, regions and counties. In general, boarding, hay, and vet care are more expensive in bigger cities than in the country.

Initial Costs
The amount of money you spend on a horse depends on several factors, including the horse’s age and training. If you only want a pet for the pleasure of riding, expect to pay $1,600 to $1,800 almost anywhere you live. If you intend to show the horse, you will pay much more. The show horse is what makes the difference in cost depending on your locality. Equipment and supplies are another immediate expense. The short list includes a saddle, saddle pad, bridle, halter, and grooming equipment. Riding clothes are needed, too, if this is not just a pet horse. If you are going to board the horse on your property, and you don’t already have horse facilities, you need to build them beforehand. If this is all new to you, the cost of all this can really open your eyes.

Ongoing Expenses
Most people think the initial outlay for a horse and equipment is the largest expense they’ll have after becoming horse owners. The reality is that maintenance will cost much more over the life span of the animal. Expect to encounter regular expenses when owning a horse. The cost of each item and service in the list below will vary depending on where you live, so do your research. Call local veterinarians, farriers (the people who trim and put shoes on hooves), and tack and feed stores to determine how much each item will cost. Estimate high so you won’t be disappointed.

Boarding: If you don’t have your own horse property, you’ll need to keep your horse some place else. The most likely option is a commercial boarding farm. The stable where you take lessons might offer this service. When boarding, you have to pay a monthly fee for a stall, pasture, or a fenced enclosure. This fee usually includes food and stall maintenance, but may not include bedding.

Bedding: If your horse is boarded where bedding isn’t part of the plan, or you wish to keep him at home, you’ll have to provide shavings or another type of bedding, which you will need to clean and freshen every day.

Feed: If your horse lives with you, you need to provide feed, which includes hay and/or maintenance of your pasture. Don’t forget feed extras, such as pellets or food for special dietary needs

Dietary supplements: Feed supplements, which you can add to help your horse’s joints, attitude, or other issues, are popular and plentiful at tack and feed stores. If you plan to give one or more of these supplements to your horse, add this cost to your monthly estimate.

Veterinary treatment: Horses can get sick, too. When it happens to your household, you have to call out the vet. The problem might be minor or require minimal treatment. I might be major and require surgery. Vet bills can be very high, and they can rise quickly if a horse has a serious or a chronic problem.

Preventive veterinary care: All adult horses need regular preventive care. Vaccinations and de-worming usually necessary several times each year. Overgrown teeth are a common problem requiring filing at least once each year.

Shoes and hoof trimming: Horses that wear shoes require new ones every six to eight weeks. A farrier will still need to trim the hooves of the horse if you choose to have him remain shoeless.

Insurance: Many horse owners insure their animals for major medical, mortality, loss of use, and/or liability. It’s usually a good idea. Add the cost of premiums to your list.

Training and lessons: If you are a beginning rider, you will want basic lessons in these skills. Your horse needs to train right along with you. Training is especially necessary if you intend to show your horse. Lessons are usually weekly expenses.

Show expenses: If you plan to show your horse, you have to spend money on show clothes, tack (equipment for your horse), entry fees, and transportation.

Now comes the scary part. Add the total costs. You’ll quickly discover the shape and color of your horse future. The number may not look very cheerful, but too many that have preceded you have gotten their feet wet, not expecting to take a bath.

Tanya Vorgan believes in the easiest way to learn — to teach others as she is learning. Her many interests have lead her to many exciting experiences, but sometimes nothing compares to the richness of quiet moments in which to reflect and grow. Tanya is also among those committed to the never-ending quest for the perfect cup of coffee, which for her begins with the best bar none Bunn coffee makers.

If you already own a Bunn, always use Bunn coffee filters to prevent overflow and to remove all chances of a bitter or papery taste in your coffee.

Author: Tanya Vorgan
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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The impression most people have is that you need to control a horses’ head in order to control them properly. This is why many trainers show a horse how to stop and start through the use of a lead rope or bridle. But what can you do if you don’t have these supplies? What method can you use to control the horse? If you have spent time chasing a horse around a pasture then you have likely asked yourself these questions.

People can learn to control the horse’s mind through the process of natural horse training. If you control a horses mind you won’t lose control, no matter what situation you are faced with. Natural horse training is a unique method that needs to be done properly in order to ensure success.

The process of training doesn’t use any form of punishment or obedience, but uses calm compliance. As a trainer, you need self-control and discipline to get your horse to willing follow your lead all the time. To achieve this, natural horse training focuses on developing a pattern and establishing a feeling of safety and comfort for the horse. By this description, natural horse training seems easy when in reality it is a very difficult program to learn.

Before you can start this training method, you need to get your horse to pay attention to you. To do this you also need to provide your horse with your full attention. Focus on what your horse is doing and don’t allow distractions during the training session.

Both you and the horse need to be in a position to concentrate and focus. If this is impossible to do for long periods of time, then you should start training in small increments and work up to longer periods. Ideally, you should start with at least ten minutes of training time.

In addition to paying attention to your horse, you also want to consider the feedback they are providing. Are the eyes and ears signaling anything? What is the horse’s breathing pattern? Are their reactions similar to the last time you worked with them? By paying attention to these things you will be able to help the horse pay attention to you. Find a trigger that gets your horse to do what you want them to do willingly and then use this continually.

Rhythm and relaxation are key when it comes to natural horse training. Your movements as you approach the horse should be rhythmic. Be relaxed when approaching the horse or stall. Your breathing plays a vital role and should be carefully monitored. Horses are keen to your actions and they will sense if you are tense. If something unusual or unplanned happens this relaxation and rhythm is very important.

After mastering these two simple key features then you can advance in natural horse training. Although don’t be disappointed if things are perfect in the first day or week. Often times it can take several months before horses learn a non-predatory system through natural horse training. While it is known as natural horse training this doesn’t mean that it will come naturally for all people.

In order to naturally control your horse you will need to have the appropriate mental self-control. This is where you will need a lot of hard work. Many successful natural horse trainers have years of experience. So if your first try doesn’t result in success then don’t get discouraged. Simply remember to take your time and be patient, this way your horse will be patient with you. When you do this, you can soon see the benefits that natural horse training has to offer.

Sheryll Walker is a horse enthusiast, helping numbers of people to learn secrets of Natural Horse Training.

To discover more helpful tips on Young Horse Training and learn more about Natural Horse Training, visit http://www.HorseTrainingHelp.com.

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Author: Sheryll Walker
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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If you have a well-trained horse then you may have the privilege of being taught by them. However, if you want to get a young horse then you should be aware that you are getting an untrained horse and you are going to have to take on the role of the teacher. Consider the following tips to help you train your young horse.

It is important that you get a horse under the age of four if you are going to be getting a young horse. A horse broken after the age of a four will be more difficult to train. This is because by this point their physical structure and strong will are more imposing.

Young horse training is also made easier if the animal has natural balance and rhythm. You can tell a naturally unbalanced horses if they are constantly changing their neck position. This is often a sign of an that has incorrect training.

If you are getting an older horse or one that is already being trained through a specific discipline, you should consider with the same guidelines.

A horse that has already had improper training is going to need many help to overcome their good and bad experiences. Therefore, you need to invest a lot of patience and time to train them.

For a three-year-old horse, it is important to limit your training sessions to half hour sessions three to four times a week. Once a horse turns four you can increase the sessions to forty or forty-five minutes in duration. Even as they get older, you should never make your training session over an hour in duration.

When it comes to training a young horse, you often just need a bridle that has a flash noseband and a double-jointed bit. Make sure you are buying the right training equipment that meets the specific needs of your individual horse. If you don’t have proper equipment then you won’t be able to have success with your training.

When you start a training session, you should never have a specific practice planned. Each day a horse is going to react to you differently so you need to adapt your training session to the horses’ specific situation and mood. A tense horse requires you to avoid specific practices or exercises until they are loose so injuries can be avoided.

If a horse is doing well during their training session and seems to be balanced, smooth, supple and on top of the aids then you should start a new exercise the horse hasn’t tried yet. However, make sure the horse’s introduction to the new exercise is playful and not forced.

When getting on a horse you want to teach them to walk with a long rein. This will make it easiest for releasing the horses back muscles. A new horse requires turnout or longeing before you can try to ride them. To make it easy for your horse you should start with a rein that they prefer.

When you first begin young horse training, you want to use a gait that your horse can easily be balanced with. This way it can be easier for your horse to get in a rhythm and maintain composure better. For most horses, they can stay in balance best with the trot.

Young horse training should be consistent. When a young horse has a clear leader then they will be more comfortable, relaxed and easy to train. Although it is also important that there is variety in your training routine. Rather than having your horse focus on work all the time, you should take them for long trail rides or other fun activities on occasion in order to have success with young horse training.

Sheryll Walker is a horse enthusiast, helping numbers of people to learn secrets of Natural Horse Training.

To discover more helpful tips on training the young horse and learn more about Natural Horse Training, visit HorseTrainingHelp.com.

Get your hand on the “Natural Horsemanship” Videos!

Author: Sheryll Walker
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Horse tack is the term used to describe all the items used to make a horse ready to be ridden. For most of us (who use the English style of riding), the tack consists of a saddle blanket, a saddle, a bridle and a girth. If you are just starting out, learning how to tack a horse is one of the most important lessons that you can learn (behind how to ride a horse).

Before you tack your horse up, you need to take a few precautions. The most important one is to tie your horse up. When you tie a horse up always use a quick release not or quick release snaps. We always say at the stables that it is better to have to catch a healthy horse than to take a trapped horse to the vet. Another basic safety point is to always wear a helmet and body protector when around your horse.

Now that you have the horse tied up then it’s time to start tacking your horse. Talk to your horse and brush it down. Doing this not only calms your horse but lets you check your horse over for any lumps or bumps that it might have picked up.

Once your horse is checked over, tied and you are already to begin. Take the reins and the top of the bridle in the same hand and put them over your right shoulder. Make sure that nothing is dangling on the ground that your horse can trod on.

Put the saddle together. If you haven’t done this already it is always best to get someone experienced to help (and of course read our guide to how to saddle a horse).

Once you have your saddle ready then it’s time to put your saddle pad onto your horse.

Now depending on the type of riding you are planning on doing the the saddle pad varies. For show hunting then the saddle pad is shaped like the saddle and just shows under the saddle. The white is outlined. For schooling you can use pretty much whatever pad you like. Square pads are very popular. Finally for dressage the saddle pad is square, the front of the pad fits the shape of the horses shoulders.

Once you have put the saddle on the horse in the correct manner, put the reins over the horses nech, remove the halter and slip it over the horses neck.

Put the bit back in the horses mouth after you have unbuckled the nose band of the bridal first.

Guide the bit into the horses mouth, making sure that you take care not to hit the horses teeth (or loose a couple of digits). If the horse resists opening their mouth then a cheeky trick is to slide a finger into the area on the gums that the bit rests on. If it is cold, remember to warm the bit before.

Slide the crown piece over the horses ears.

Nearly finished…

Attach the throat latch loosely as if it’s too tight then it can cut off the horses air supply. Like most things when tacking the horse, if you can’t slide few fingers between it then it is far too tight.

Attach the nose band in a snug fashion, again make sure you slide one finger between the band and the horses nose.

Now it’s time to get the right length for the stirrups. We always say before you jump on then make sure the stirrup loops come up to your armpit.

Buckle your helmet and it’s finally time to mount the horse.

If you are looking for great horses for sale, want to find out more about your favorite breed of horse or simply just want to look at pictures of horses (my favorite are the miniature horses) then Horse Searchers is the right website for you.

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Author: Paul William Faulkner
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Your horse comes to the gate happy to see you, then he spots the wormer tube and he prepares for battle. When you finally catch him and get the halter on you begin the event of deworming. If you are lucky, most of the wormer will not only end up in his mouth instead of your shirt, but it will also stay there and not end up on the ground. On bad days, you have to nurse your bruised feet and take a shower to get the wormer out of your hair. If this sounds remotely familiar then I have some lessons that can help you both in this simple process.

Over the years there have been many products developed to help with this procedure. There dewormers that are fed to the horse with his grain on a daily basis, different flavors of pastes and gels to make wormers more appealing to the horse and even ‘worming halters’ that help insure all the paste gets in the horses mouth and in the right place so it stays there. Now you will be able to teach your horse to accept paste.

We do not start with the goal, as that is the fastest way to get into a wreck, as your toes will attest to. We will start with a basic lesson that teaches your horse to put his head in the correct position to accept the wormer and leave it there until we ask him to move it. You can use a halter or bridle for this lesson and can do this in about any enclosed area. It is a good exercise to work on in the stall when you cannot go outside as well.

Start by standing on the left side of your horse and place your right hand on his poll with your fingers between his ears and your left hand about where the noseband of the halter lies. You will first teach your horse to lower his head to the pressure on his poll by placing light pressure with your right hand. Leave the pressure there until you see his head drop even a quarter inch. Do not add pressure if he raises his head. If he raises it too high for you to reach with your hand, then use the lead rope or rein and exert the same downward pressure. Remember to release the pressure as soon as his head goes in the downward direction, no matter how high it went and how little it goes down. We have to keep in mind we are teaching the horse to lower his head, not to put it where we started. Be sure to praise your horse for each correct guess with either a rub or encouraging voice.

Once the horse will lower his head each time you apply pressure and leave it lowered, you are ready to teach the horse to bring his head around to the side. First, bring the horses’ head down to a comfortable height with your right hand. Now, with your left hand apply pressure to the side of his nose at the point where the halter nose band would lay as if you were going to pull his head in front of you, but don’t pull. Just apply pressure and wait for him to move away from the pressure bringing his head to the side toward you. Leave your right hand at his poll and apply pressure if the horse raises his head during this part of the lesson. Always get the head at the correct elevation then ask to bring it to the side. When the horse raises his head, he is telling you he is uncertain and is tensing up. A good rule to follow is to go back in the lesson until you get the proper response then build on the correct answer. Again, release the pressure as soon as the horse moves away from it and praise the horse. When the horse understands to both lower his head and bring it in front of you, we will begin teaching the horse to leave his head where we place it.

Bring the horses head to the correct position using pressure and release. Release his head as soon as it is in the correct position. He will want to put it back straight so, when he does just bring it back. Count how long he leaves it to the side and try to build that time in small increments. When your horse will leave his head to the side for one minute, start messing with his face a little at a time. Allow the horse to put his head back forward when he does well. It can make the horses’ neck sore to keep it to the side too long so give him breaks, switch sides, and practice the same lessons on the other side. Rub his cheeks, nose, mouth, etc. and when he is comfortable with that start rubbing the sides of his lips where the wormer will be going.

Use extreme caution when working around the horses’ mouth that you do not place your fingers where they could be easily bitten. There is a gap between the incisors and molars that has no teeth. It is also where the bit rests. This is the only place you should put your fingers actually into their horses’ mouth. If you choose to do so, the horse will try to spit your finger/hand out with his tongue. Use extreme caution that you do not allow him to draw your finger/hand into his teeth where he could mistakenly bite them.

Place your right arm under the horses’ head and bring your right hand to the spot your left hand had been on the bridge of the horses’ nose. Now with your left hand carefully rub the insides of the lips and while lifting the lip out of the way with your right had, rub the outsides of his bars and gums until he is comfortable. Take small steps and if you meet a lot of resistance go back to a point the horse is comfortable and start back at that point and move forward slower.

When the horse is comfortable with one finger, move to two, then three, and so on until the horse will allow you to place your entire hand in his mouth at his bars, staying relaxed and calm. Your horse should also allow you to hold his tongue to the side of his mouth as well. When you place your hand, at the bars, into his mouth, he will try to spit it out, gently take his tongue and pull it out to the side.

We have now taught the horse to accept us working around and in his mouth and we are ready to introduce the worming tools. We will start with an empty wormer syringe. Bring the horses head into position in front of you and take the empty syringe and begin by rubbing it all over the horses’ face, mouth and lips. When he is quiet for that, rub the syringe along the inside of the lips where it will be used later. When the horse is calm with that, insert the syringe into the horse’s mouth as if you were going to administer the wormer and push the plunger. Continue with this until the horse accepts the empty wormer.

Now find a paste substitute that your horse likes such as syrup, applesauce, baby food, etc. Place a small amount into the wormer syringe and administer it to the horse. Do this daily until the horse looks forward to the wormer. Now we are ready to pull a fast one on them. Take your wormer and without hesitation, administer it to the horse. Later that day dose him again with the substitute that he likes. If he is hesitant back up until he is calm and administer the substitute until he looks forward to it again. The next time you are ready to worm him, go in with the wormer and administer with out hesitation.

Jodi Wilson is a recognized authority on the subject of horse training and has spent almost 30 years developing training techniques and solutions for horse owners no matter the discipline or breed.

Jodi is an Accredited Josh Lyons trainer, and is Certified in John Lyons training techniques. Her website, http://Jodi-Wilson.com, provides a wealth of information to improve the relationship between horse and rider. Jodi is also available for clinics and demonstrations as well as lessons, apprenticeships, and horse training.

Jodi has trained and competed in Reining, Sorting, Jumping, Dressage, English and Western Pleasure, Trail and Problem Solving.

Author: Jodi M Wilson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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