Posts Tagged ‘bomb proof’
When Buying Your First Horse
Buying your first horse is exciting and can be very rewarding. When buying your first horse there are a number of things you need to consider. Owning a horse is a huge responsibility but the rewards are worth it; they are amazing animals and their love is never ending.
Firstly choosing a horse for your needs is the most important thing to do. If you want a horse to just quietly hack out on the weekend then you would look for a horse that has a kind and quiet temperament and is what we call ‘bomb proof’ it should be educated in all areas. It is also an advantage if he is a ‘good doer’. This means that your horse will be little or no maintainance with his feed. Types of horse that are generally most suited to this are stock horses, quarter horses or most types of ponies. If you were looking at competing and you are able to ride most days then you would look for something that specializes in the area you want to go into like show jumping for example. We are seeing more and more Warmbloods emerge from our own breeding stock but also imported stallions and mares. In Europe warmbloods are used mainly in show jumping and dressage but now they are breaking into eventing. Temperament is a major factor in buying a horse, you have to look at ground manners, and it’s temperament when being riden. It’s trainability is a huge part of temperament.
Main Factors to look for when selecting the horse to view:
Your ability – make an accurate assessment of how well you ride, always try and be honest as this will allow you to get the perfect horse for you!
Facilities that are available to you – Climate and weather can affect your choice in breeds. If you only have fields available to you and you live in a cold climate then you will have to buy a breed that can survive through winter in a field. You may have to supplement his feed. If you have stables available then you have more choice.
Age – this will depend on your experience level, and what you want the horse for.
Height – a horse that is to short or to big for you can make riding much harder. Make sure you feel comfortable on the horse.
Breed – can be discipline specific. An example would be, if you wanted to go into show jumping – then a warmblood with a good form over a fence would be more appropriate than a thoroughbred that was bred to race.
Education – What has he done? What results has he received? Who has been riding him.? If he’s riden by a really experienced rider, or a beginner. For beginners a school master would be an appropriate kind of horse. This means that the horse has been correctly trained and educated. However, when looking for a school master be careful as the term is sometimes used very lightly and the ‘school master’ may not have a kind temperament.
Price – Price of course can be a limiting factor. Don’t be put off by a cheaper horse, no one else needs to know how much he was and if you’ve chosen well he will be a good horse anyway.
Things to do when you think you have the right one:
First before anything else when you go and see him, take a professional or experienced rider with you that knows your strengths and weaknesses. This will allow you to have some feedback on how you will go with him. Whether or not he will be tricky or be able to teach you anything. It will also give you an idea on his temperament, if the horse is willing to to behave for his rider. Some horses aren’t easy for beginners and an experienced rider will be able to help you assess whether or not the horse is suitable for you.
Always get on yourself if you feel safe. You may go and see a horse that your experienced rider suggests that you shouldn’t get on. Don’t worry if this happens, trust their advice. If you are not confident then don’t ride. Ask yourself why you are not confident. If it’s because the horse has been naughty for your experienced rider then it may do it to you as well which may knock your confidence. If you are just a little worried about a new horse give it a try in a small arena if it is available. Trust your own instinct. It would be good to have riden a number of different horses before you go to buy one so you already have a nice skill base and confidence to ride new horses.
Never buy the first horse the first time you see him. You can still come back and buy the first one you saw, but never ever buy on first sight. Always go at least twice to see the horse. The first time will be arranged but try to make the second one a ‘last minute’ decision. Call the owner when your half an hour away and say ‘we were just in the neighborhood and we’d thought we would just go and see the horse’. Even if you don’t ride him the second time, look at the horse, try to assess for yourself what the horse is like. Does he have the same temperament as the first time you saw him? That’s the point to see the horse in it’s own area with other horses and people. If you give them days to prepare the horse they can work him hard so he’s not to jumpy or even dope him to ensure he will be quiet. Your not trying to be cheeky or tricky you have to make sure that the horse is right for you!
If you’ve tried him once, and an experienced rider has confirmed he will be suitable, get him VETTED. Beginners always make the mistake of getting to excited and buying on the first look. This can end up being a nightmare. If you do not get him checked by a vet, any problems that he has had or still has, can not be detected. Remember that some horse people will try to sell you a dud horse. If you get him vetted the vet will tell you if there is anything that you should be aware of, or worried about. It is then your decision whether or not to buy. Get an independent vet, and do not let the seller arrange this. Unless it is a big name rider, although just to be safe I would still arrange it yourself. It’s a little more work but if you’ve arranged it then you can feel more relaxed that the vet won’t be getting a commission from the seller. I have heard many stories about people (even experienced horse people) buying a horse without being vetted and it having chronic lameness 2 days after it gets home. This is a disaster if you don’t get it vetted you can’t do anything about it without going to court and fighting to prove that the seller knew about it before they sold the horse to you.
Questions to ask:
1. How long have you had him (then who had him before you). Get his history.
2. Is he quiet to shoe, float, worm and clip? If he’s not ask if there is any reason that they feel he’s not OK with it?
3. Has he had any major injuries? Has he ever had colic or an operation for colic? Has he ever had laminitis, been lame or had any navicular damage? (At this point if he has had any major things happen to his feet you might want to just turn around and leave him there)
4. Why are you selling him? They could just have outgrown the pony, or be going to uni or not be interested in horses any more but if you think it might be because of any reason they aren’t telling you then ask more questions and try to find out why they aren’t telling you the truth.
My advice is if in doubt ASK someone. Ask a third party who isn’t getting paid by either party and only has your best interests at heart. Listen to your instincts, if you know it’s right and all the other information you have been gathering is saying the horse is right for you then go for it but on the other hand, if you have any doubts, then don’t buy. Or look into it more. If it’s something medical that is minor, then you might be able manage it. Research what it is, talk to experts including vets if you can.
If you do each step calmly and don’t rush into anything you will have found a wonderful pony or horse and will end up having a fabulous time bonding with your new best friend.
Author: Christine Turley
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Programmable pressure cooker
Buying a Pony or Horse: Tips to Help You Make the Best Choice
So, your little girl has been taking riding lessons for a year now and
(surprise) she wants her own pony. Heres how to begin.
First, talk to your childs trainer. He or she may have an experienced
lesson horse they would be willing to lease to you. Thats a good way to
get your feet wet before you commit to the full-time obligation of caring
for your own pony. Leasing arrangements vary, but usually you pay a
monthly fee for riding privileges any time you want, as if it were your
pony. You can ride, train and show the pony. You may also have to pay
for farrier services (usually a hoof trim and/or reset shoes every six
weeks), periodic de-worming and veterinary services.
If you cant find a suitable leasing arrangement and are still interested in
owning a pony, here are some tips and things to consider along the
way.
1. What age do you want your pony or horse? An ideal age for a
beginner rider horse is 10. You can go a little younger, if you want, but a
well-trained 10-year-old horse has already experienced a lot of life. He
probably wont be as frisky as a younger horse and will be less likely to
spook or act unpredictably. You are looking for a “bomb-proof” horse,
especially for your childs first mount. Ten years old is great, as well,
because as your child grows, the horse will have many healthy years
ahead of him for riding and showing.
2. What gender should your pony be? Common experience tells us that
geldings are the best beginner mount, however, some mares can be
excellent babysitters as well. The main drawback to a mare is that some
get moody during their monthly cycles, and can even nip or kick. The
other consideration is if you are ever going to have additional horses
and plan to turn them out in a pasture together, its better not to have
one mare and several geldings. Even though they are gelded, the males
will still want to fight over the mare. You can avoid that headache by
sticking with geldings. However, if you plan to always keep your horse in
a stall in a stable with individual turnout, a mare can work out fine. Of
course, a first-time owner should never buy a stallion.
3. Do you want a horse or pony? A small horse may be a better option
than a pony for several reasons. First, your little one is going to grow up
and may be faced in the future with having to sell her beloved pony
because she’s outgrown him or her.
Second, horses are a little easier to care for. Ponies are famous for
foundering, a condition that occurs especially when a pony overeats rich
grass. The safest bet for a pony is to never let him eat grass. Feed hay, a
little grain and turn him out on dirt. Horses can founder as well, but not
as easily as ponies.
If you have a pasture-only boarding situation, opt for a horse, not a pony.
Some stables, however, have many ponies they turn out together on dirt.
If your barn is set up to care properly for a pony, go ahead, if not, stick
with a horse.
3. Look in the newspaper, on the internet, ask around at horse shows or
call other trainers. Many trainers will help you find the perfect horse for a
finders fee. It can be more expensive, but well worth it in the long run to
have professional assistance. Taking along a trainer to look at a horse
with you can give you confidence as well as an expert set of eyes and
ears in the situation.
4. Once you have a prospect located, find out as much as you can about
the horse or pony. What is its training or background? Has it showed
and where? Does it have any bad habits or fears? Is it friendly toward
other horses? Does it load in a trailer and can I do it myself? Does it or
has it ever had any health problems? Why are you selling now?
5. Get a veterinarian check before you buy. This can cost up to $200, if it
includes x-rays, but it can be well worth the expense and trouble.
Coming home with a horse that immediately is lame can be a big
disappointment. Consider the possibility, too, that the current owner may
be giving the horse bute (horse aspirin) to hide lameness when you are
looking at the horse.
6. Check out the horse unannounced. Show up at the horses stables or
pasture when you are not expected. Ask to take the horse for a ride or to
trot him on the lead rope to check for problems. Unfortunately, some
people drug their horses to make them appear more calm than they
really are. Arriving unannounced helps you see the pony as he really is.
7. Get ready for expenses. Make sure you understand and budget for all
the expenses associated with owning a horse or pony. There are
monthly boarding bills, which include food and care. You may also want
to supplement your horse or pony with a hoof, coat or joint supplement.
Your horse needs its hooves trimmed or shoes reset every six weeks.
You also need an annual check from the veterinarian, which at least will
include shots, teeth floating and a coggins test. Many owners give their
horses twice yearly shots, as well as de-worming at least four times a
year.
Of course, now there are expenses for saddles, blankets, bridles, bits,
riding clothes, lessons, helmets, riding lessons and showing fees. If your
trainer will transport your horse for you, great, if not, add a horse trailer
to the list.
Finding the right horse or pony can be a long adventure. Dont be
tempted to pick one out of the paper and surprise your child with it at a
birthday party. Considering the investment on your part, you want your
child to fall in love with this animal, so his or her opinion needs to count
as well. Finding the right equine companion for your child can begin a
relationship that will last for years.
Author: Diane Samson
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Digital Camera News