Posts Tagged ‘animals’

I’d like to have a couple of horses. I’m not sure if I have enough room. So I have 2 questions. How much acreage (square feet) of open pasture do I need for 2 horses and I am going to put up a 3 sided shed – do i need one for each animal or is one enough? Also any recommendations on how to find a bombproof horse? I need super gentle riding animals. Your help is appreciated.

Grooming horses is very important to a horse’s health. Grooming promotes muscle tone and circulation. Just like us humans need a good rub and groom once in a while – it’s the same for animals. You know that when you pet a friendly dog – they look up to you with those eyes and they just fall in love with you, well again, it’s the same for horses. Grooming strengthens the bond between the horse and it’s owner and also allows the owner to look over the horse to see if it has any injuries and such. Of course, the main reason one would groom a horse would be to basically make it look purty of course!!

The equipment you need to groom a horse are:

1) hoof pick
2) dandy brush
3) rubber curry comb – to clean the dandy brush after use
4) plastic curry comb
5) body Brush
6) metal curry comb
7) 2 used cold tea bags (optional)
stable rubber / tea towel
9) strapping pad
10) water brush
11) clean sponges
12) tale bandage
13) mane and tale conditioner
14) Hoof oil and a brush

Seems like a lot huh – well if done right, it should take you approximately 45 minutes to groom a horse correctly!

The first step is to start cleaning the hooves with the hoof pick. First tie up the horse outside and if the horse is fussy, give him a hay net to play with to distract him. Make sure you clean the hoof from heal to toe.

Next, take the dandy brush to remove any dirt on your horse. It’s best to start at the neck and go down the body then down the legs.

Next, remove hair and promote circulation with the rubber curry comb. This is the part of the grooming that promotes circulation – your horse will be very happy when you are doing this!! Avoid the legs during this stage.

Next remove dirt with body brush and metal curry comb. Be firm during this act. Hold the metal curry comb in the other hand and scrape the dirt off so that you can continue cleaning the horse.

Next is the head – remove the head collar and hold the head with the hand you are not going to be grooming with. Use the body brush to clean the head.

Next brush the mane with either your fingers or the body brush. Go here to see some natural products to promote a shiny horse coat and mane. Keeping horses healthy the natural way is always best!!

Don’t forget the tale, horse lovers!! Spray some condition and brush that pony tale, pardon the pun!! *** Be careful not to stand directly behind the horse in case the horse kicks**!!

Next, grab the dampened sponge and wipe around the eyes and nose of the horse. Use the tea bag to wipe down the eyes as well, but this is optional.

Next, (this will won’t be your favorite part) – but take a different wet sponge and wipe around the horse’s bottom area. told you you wouldn’t like it! LOL!!

The tale bandage gets wrapped around the tail for a neater appearance when it is removed.

Use the strapping pad to strap the horse. This is a skilled process which I will discuss in later articles. Only if you feel comfortable, this is the time to strap the horse.

Lastly, take a damp towel and wipe down your horse. This will make your horse feel refreshed for sure!!

Actually, one more step – and that is to grease both the inside and outside of the hooves with oil.

That’s it. Now you are happy that you have a clean horse and your horse is happy because he just got done with a massage!!

Debbie Drum – The All Natural Pet Helper

For Natural Horse Health.

Author: Debbie Drum
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Anti-angiogenic Food

Clicker training has over the years become a very popular and widespread training method for horses, however like all methods it has its benefits and shortcomings. We took a look at clicker training and what you would need to know before undertaking this type of training with your horse.

What is clicker training?
Clicker training originates from animal actor training and trainers. It is used to train animals to hit their marks and to combine required movements, gestures and actions as required by the director. It is a very powerful training tool when used correctly and can cause numerous complications if applied incorrectly.

Uses for clicker training
Clicker training for the owner is useful for encouraging the horse to perform and focus better. The clicker is used to notify the horse that it has done well, or has done what is needed. Thus building confidence in the horse, strengthening the relationship between horse and owner, both of these resulting in a more willing horse. (And hopefully a happier owner)

Clicker training from a horses’ point of few is clearer than most other methods. Horses are very compliant in nature and will willingly work hard for praise and reward. With clicker training there is a definite conformation (clicker clicking) when the horse has done correctly. It then understands that it has done well and develops confidence in its abilities to do things correctly.

In most instances clicker training has proved useful in correcting problems or fears that a horse may experience, or have acquired whilst in training.

How does it work?
The clicker is a little handheld box containing a metal clicker that when pushed down makes a clicking sound. To start off the trainer is armed with this clicker, a touching rod and treats (carrots, cut up apples, whatever the horse likes). At the starting phase the horse is trained to touch the rod, on touching the clicker is clicked and the horse given a treat, thus the reward for good or desired behaviour is installed. Most horses catch on very quick, and learn to look for the rod as finding it and touching it brings rewards. Initially the food is associated as the reward, later only the clicker is required.

Is my horse suitable?
Most horses are suited to clicker training, as most horses are willing to work on this system, some horses even excel. These horses are considered natural animal actors, being able to pick up a queue and to progressively work through a series of steps with minimal time spent on training.

However there are some horses that should not be clicker trained. Of these, horses with bullying natures are at the top of the list. And by bullying we don’t mean biting and kicking, we’re talking about a horse that has little respect for ones space or that is willing to walk over you if needed.

Because clicker training is done on a reward system it is important that your horse be willing to comply before getting a treat. Horses with bullying natures do little and want everything, so for your own safety and sanity do not attempt to do clicker training with one of these.

The benefits for your horse
It allows for the development of a trusting relationship between horse and owner or trainer,
Horse will become more confidant and be more willing to work,
Horse will become more attentive and focused as its confidence grows,
Horse will become more willing as the training is progressive,
Horse will be capable of overcoming its fears as it focuses more on what is asked.

The benefits to you the owner
You will become a more confidant handler,
You will understand the use of progressive training and that things are done in steps and stages, you will also learn how to break training stages up into these steps,
The communication with your horse will become clearer and less frustrated,
You will have more fun with your horse.

Clicker training is a great way to play and have fun with your horse whilst training, it allows for the development of deeper bonds. It is one of the few training systems around that encourages the trainer and handler to think of what is required, then break it down into simpler steps before building those steps up into the required result.

Or as a movie director would say “I need him to gallop up to his mark, rear up then turn and run off again” and you the clicker trainer will hear, gallop to mark and halt “Click” Rear “Click” turn and gallop off “Click.” The three steps needed to complete the movement.

Simple isn’t it?

Kate Hinton is CEO of ThatHorse.com which is a one stop shop for everything equine. She is also the author of ‘The Essential Guide to Selling Your Horse’ which is a must have if you are looking to sell a horse. Visit http://www.horse-selling-guide.com to purchase your copy today!

Author: Kate Hinton
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Guest blogger

I get a lot of horse training questions about stopping a horse from kicking. The kicking habits of these horses range from the horse kicking at virtually anyone to kicking at only the husbands.

It’s a daunting problem that lots of people have no idea how to cure. That being so, I want to share some insight to horses kicking.

First I want to relate some causes of horses starting in the habit of kicking. Because a horse kicks is no reason to think he is naturally bad or unmanageable. I don’t think there is a horse alive that is “naturally” vicious. In fact, they’re made that way due to bad management or ignorant handlers.

Admittedly, there are some horses that inherit the characteristics of their ancestors. But one should never start to break a horse without first taking into consideration the nature, disposition, and understanding of a horse.

For instance, there are some horses that are naturally predisposed to have a “not so good” disposition. There are certain physical characteristics you can spot on a horse that indicate what his disposition is like.

Jesse Beery, a famous horse trainer from the 1800′s, was brilliant at deciphering a horse’s disposition. He even wrote extensively about how to do it. You can read about it at http://www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beery_etips.htm.

Anyway, now we can handle the horse according to its disposition. We can get it very nearly equal with a good dispositioned horse. All the difference in the world is due to the management and training of the colt. A horse with a “not so good’ disposition will require more patience and thorough work.

All animals in nature have a self defense of some sort. A horse’s self defense is kicking. After all, if you work with a horse that gets badly excited by some cause (such as ropes or chains coming in contact with his legs and those parts of his body aren’t broken) his first inclination is to kick it out of the way.

The trick is to break a horse in a way that the habit never occurs in the first place. Too many people think a lesson will be enough to educate the horse to be ready to go. But if you’re driving your horse and he gets caught under the tail or the cross pieces of the shaft touch his quarters…and those parts are unbroken, it would likely frighten and excite him enough to cause him to kick.

And the worse part is this: Once started, there is an increased inclination to go on kicking until confirmed in the habit.

So the cure is prevention. You must make all parts of his body submissive to sensitivity of his extremities. One way to do this is using a technique called poling. Essentially, you take a light pole and start at a horse’s nose, rub it over the mane, back, belly, quarters, and sensitive parts of the body, until all muscles become relaxed.

But what if you have a horse confirmed in the habit of kicking?

If that’s the case, I can give you three possible answers.

One is to sell the horse. If you feel it’s not fixable then it’s not a good idea to keep the horse around. You’re going to get severely injured if you’re not extra careful.

Two, get a professional trainer to help you. A trainer will charge anywhere from $400.00 per month to $900 per month. Is that worth it to get your horse to stop kicking? Only you can decide.

Third, you can learn to do it yourself. There are solutions out there that are pretty good. Jesse Beery, which I mentioned earlier, has a permanent solution to stop it.

About The Author

Andy Curry is a nationally known horse trainer and author of several best selling horse training and horse care books. For information visit his website at www.horsetrainingandtips.com. He is also the leading expert on Jesse Beery’s horse training methods which can be seen at www.horsetrainingandtips.com/Jesse_Beerya.htm.

Author: Andy Curry
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Duty tariff

I’ve been wanting to buy a horse for ages now. I am going to spend a bout a year and try to get my money situated and stuff, but in the mean time I am looking at the options and what to expect with horse ownership. I’d like to know about the vaccines and stuff like that. There are allot of draft horses I want. What beautiful animals! I know I will need to have a vet check the horse out.

A lot of people get into the horse business or horse ownership as a "family" thing. The generations before them had horses, and now they too own horses. I’m sure most of their knowledge comes from learning by hand.

But some other people (like myself) do not get this opportunity. My grandparents owned horses, but my parents did not. So that "hands-on" learning that goes on for generations stopped.
Right now I’m still in High School but plan on owning a horse or more in the future. I’ve taken equine science/management classes, and work with large animals like cattle (not that their care is alike!).
And as weird as it sounds- I think I am going too far with learning and reasearch.

So have you horse owners learned what you know from childhood, learned about the subject then got into horses, or just got horses and learned as you go?

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

Prevention is much better (and less expensive) than cure. Horses should be wormed periodically, to a schedule. They should receive the required inoculations and they should have a yearly dental check. As intestinal parasites vary from region to region, the type and frequency of worming will also vary accordingly. Likewise, a horse which is always on the same pasture with the same horses may not need the same level of inoculations as a horse which travels a lot, including competitions. In areas with high levels of Lyme disease, anti-tick medication may be advisable. Consequently, one needs to discuss with a local veterinarian the local requirements, taking into account how the horse is used, to determine the most appropriate actions.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

When buying a horse at auction, one needs to be able to tell if a horse is good or not. Since horses at auction are sold without guarantee or any special legal protection for the buyer, if you buy a horse with a serious problem you are probably stuck with it. Therefore, you need to examine the horses prior to the auction in order to determine which ones have problems (hidden or otherwise) and which ones are worth buying.

If possible, get a catalogue of the horses on offer (so you can make notes) and arrive a few hours before the auction do that you have time to carefully look over the horses. A horse is a big investment, so it is worth investing time in making the right choice. Look at the horses as they are unloaded, eliminating any that appear overly difficult or that look unhealthy. As they are walked to the pens, they should walk easily and without any sign of lameness. If the horse appears frightened, scratch it off the list. On the other hand, if it looks apathetic and uninterested in its surroundings, it is likely sick or drugged, so remove it from the list as well. You are looking for a horse that is alert, perhaps a bit nervous (which is understandable in the strange surroundings) but well behaved.

How do the people unloading the horse treat it? If they are the owners and are gentle with it, apparently sorry to see it go, it is likely that the horse has been well treated. However, if they are treating it roughly, perhaps even whipping it into place, then it may well be an abused horse with associated horse care problems.

Once the horses are unloaded, the next step is to go to where they are penned or stabled. Watch how the horses move and behave, eliminating any that have abnormal behavior. Look for any scars or blemishes, which can indicate previous injuries or mistreatment.

At this point, you will likely have eliminated most of the horses from consideration and have a short list of possible candidates. Try to find the owners for these and ask them to tell you about the horse. Ask what illnesses or injuries the horse has had. Inquire as to whether it has any bad behaviors, habits or other problems. Ask how it has been kept and what it has been used for.

If the horse is still interesting, ask if it can be moved from the pen to somewhere where you can examine it without other horses. Don’t go into the pen to examine a horse as the other horses moving about are too much of a distraction and a pen full of strange horses is simply too big an accident risk in any case. Run your hands over the entire horse, feeling for bumps or injuries, especially on the legs. Look carefully at the hooves, both top and underneath. While being careful with your fingers, check that the teeth are in good condition. Starting at the shoulder, put a finger on each side of the spine and firmly push, then move down an inch and repeat until you have covered the entire back. If the horse shows any pain or discomfort during this, you have a back problem which you need to be wary of. The horse may be slightly nervous during the examination but should not show fear or aggression at any point.

If you find a problem during the examination, but not enough to eliminate the horse immediately, ask the owner to explain it. If you are not satisfied with the answer or don’t believe it, eliminate the horse. There will always be other horses and other auctions, so it is better to leave an auction without a horse than risk buying one which may have major issues. Once you have your final short list of horses, decide on a maximum price for each horse, as by the time bidding has started it is too late to think logically about this.

Prior to the start of the auction, you should also ensure that you have facilities to keep the horse and someone to transport it there. If you haven’t made arrangements, discuss with the auction staff if they can do this or if they know a reputable person that can.