WattyIrma:

I don`t have a horse but I have a good sourse there you can learn to feed to ride to check and to love a horse.Its funny,too

...x:

Just a few handy hints to get you started;

Nutritional Needs
A horse’s digestive system is made to process large quantities of grass, which is high in fiber and water. The basic diet for most horses should be grass and good quality hay, free of dust and mold. In most cases, plenty of fresh, clean, unfrozen water should be available at all times, even if the horse only drinks once or twice a day.
How much is enough?
Most of the time, horses should be able to graze or eat hay when they want to. An empty stomach lends itself to a higher risk of ulcers, which are quite common in race and sport horses. How much to feed depends on various factors such as condition and activity level, but most horses should eat between 2% and 4% of their body weight in pounds of hay or other feeds. You have to watch your horse and make sure he is maintaining an appropriate weight. Your veterinarian can help you decide how to feed to keep your horse fit and healthy.

A word on grains
Most horses, even fairly active ones, don’t need the extra calories found in grains, which are high in carbohydrates. Foals fed “high energy” diets can develop bone and joint problems. Some adult horses develop certain muscle disorders related to excess carbohydrates. It is also incorrect to feed a horse extra grain in the winter to keep him warm. Hay, in fact, produces more heat when digested.

Any changes in the diet should be made gradually to avoid colic (abdominal pain usually associated with intestinal disease) or laminitis (painful inflammation in the hoof associated with separation of the hoof bone from the hoof wall), either of which can be catastrophic. A horse or pony breaking into the grain bin or being allowed to gorge on green pasture for the first time since the fall is headed for disaster. If you travel with your horse, bring his food along. For some horses, you may also have to bring a supply of the water he is used to.

Vaccinations and Deworming
All horses need vaccinations and most need regular deworming. The specifics should be discussed with an equine veterinarian. Every horse should be protected against tetanus. Other vaccines given routinely include eastern and western equine encephalomyelitis, equine influenza, rhinopneumonitis (equine herpes), and rabies. Vaccines for West Nile Virus are also available. Ask your veterinarian if other vaccines are appropriate for your horse.

Worms can cause weight loss, poor coat, and colic, which can be deadly. It is best to have your veterinarian test and deworm your horse, or advise you on what to use and when. More important than treating worms is minimizing the horse’s exposure to parasites. Proper management entails not putting too many horses on too little land, rotating pastures if possible, and removing feces regularly.

Housing, Rest and Exercise
Contrary to what you may have heard, straight stalls are not necessarily worse than box stalls if the horses are together, and spend most of their day outside. Horses isolated in box stalls can develop behavioral problems from lack of companionship, exercise, and mental stimulation. Whenever possible, horses should be outside with other horses every day.

Horses can go into a light sleep with their legs “locked” so that it takes very little effort to remain standing. In order to achieve deep (REM or “dreaming”) sleep, a horse must lie flat. It is not known how much or how often a horse needs to do this, but do take note of any changes in your horse’s sleeping patterns.

Horses were born to move. In the wild they may walk many miles in a day, sometimes trot, but rarely gallop unless they have to. Daily opportunity to exercise is a must, but if you are building up your horse’s strength and conditioning, follow a sensible plan and do it gradually.

Extreme Weather Precautions
Unless it is very wet and windy, horses tolerate cold much better than heat and humidity. If they can’t sweat, they can’t get rid of heat buildup in their bodies. If the sum of the temperature in degrees Fahrenheit and the relative humidity in percentage is over 130, you should be cautious about exercising your horse. If it is over 150, you should probably rest in the shade, and if it is over 180, most horses should not work at all.

Hoof Care
Hooves should be trimmed every six to eight weeks for horses whose feet do not get adequate natural wear. Despite tradition, most horses don’t need shoes if their hooves are given the opportunity to strengthen naturally. In fact, some hoof problems are directly related to shoeing. However, changes should not be made suddenly or without expert guidance. Finding a veterinarian or farrier willing to discuss all the options may be hard, but worthwhile. In any case, neglecting the feet can be disastrous for the horse.

Teeth
Horses’ teeth grow continuously. Uneven wear can lead to sharp points and edges that cause pain and difficulty chewing. A horse’s teeth should be checked once or twice a year and “floated” (to make them smoother) by a veterinarian or well-trained equine dentist as needed. Dental problems, from painful points to rotting teeth, may cause difficulty chewing or “quidding,” which occurs when food falls out of the mouth. Other signs of dental disease may include foul breath, undigested hay in the stools, or discomfort from the bit or noseband. Dental disease can lead to choke, colic, and weight loss.

My biggest tip is to read lots of horse care books, watch DVD’s and watch people taking riding lessons. You’ll never stop learning something new about horses, that’s one of the reasons they are so much fun!

horsielover77:

Experience! I have been riding 10 years and I am still learning! See if you can voulenteer at a barn and be truthful about your knwledge and you will be suprised at how far you go.

Strive for Perfection:

If you take riding lessons you should volunteer to help out at the stable, you’ll be surprised how much you learn from just doing that. Also read everything you can get your hands on, it isn’t a substitute for hands-on experience but it sure helps.

Daniii:

-baking soda mixed with feed helps get rid of and prevent coughs
- bleach works for minor thrush
-hoof moisterizer works better than oil for me, and its good to put it high up on there feet
-for saddle sores or any kind of small cut, wash with warm water mixed with epson salts or hydrogen peroxide, adn bag balm works pretty well
-apperently, when horses have scabs that are taking a while to heal, diaper rash cream helps soften them and heal
I can’t think of any more right now but if I think of something il tell you!

Bobbi:

One thing that stands out in my mind and that is: Many people, even “seasoned” horse people will go to a more severe bit automatically when they are not getting the results that they want from their horse, when 99 times out of a hundred, their hands (or lack of them) is the culprit. No one ever wants to point the finger at their own shortcomings, but nothing causes a fight between you and your horse any quicker than going to a more severe bit. I see a lot of people using bits on their horse that should never be in a horse’s mouth unless that horse has had years of training, and the bit is put there because it is designed to send the message that you want to send to your horse with less movement of your hands, as in a reining class, etc. Putting a more severe bit in a horses mouth does NOT teach them, it finishes with finesse what they already should know…I feel so sorry for the horses whose owners don’t know what a spade bit is really for…severe bits in no way can compensate for a riders poor hands, in fact, it’s just the opposite. Unless a rider is an accomplished horseman and has hands like velvet, his horse should never see some of the bits that are on the market today..not to say that there isn’t a time and a place for them, but it certainly isn’t for the novice…there, now I will stand down off my soap box.

Oh Yeah…I noticed that someone has already mentioned placing your saddle pad forward, then sliding it back to where it settles in to lay the hair on the back flat…that is SO IMPORTANT…you know how changeing your hair style without washing or wetting your hair first can make your head sore? Think about your poor horse, when you lay the saddle blanket on his back, then slide it forward, change the direction of the hair on his back, then put your saddle on and ride him all day…same thing…This principle applies to all tack…think about it when you put a surcingle on your horse, even just to ground drive him, also a driving saddle when you are harnessing your horse, even your cinch when you push it forward, change the direction the direction that his hair is lying, then cinch it tight…OUCH!