Archive for the ‘Horse Training’ Category

Ground Manners – An Overview

Horse training success is all in the work from the ground. A good, long-term relationship between you and your horse is built from the ground up, literally. Ground manners is about teaching your horse how to behave around humans and that you are his protector and friend. The two go hand in hand by building leadership respect and trust. The time dedicated to building a proper foundation by establishing control on the ground is well worth the effort involved.

Why would you want to bother with ground manners? Well, safety issues are a good start. An untrained or poorly trained horse with bad habits such as biting, kicking, rearing and charging (among others) is dangerous. A horse can kill a person with these behaviors. The horse can injure himself, for example, by rearing and banging his head on a low ceiling. Horses do knock themselves out, cut their heads on a nail or sharp corner and require stitches. Just think of the vet bills. And the panic you’d feel in this situation. Or think of the litigation if your horse kicked someone, injuring them so they were unable to work. These things do happen. Teaching a horse good ground manners is teaching a horse that these are unacceptable and unnecessary reactions.

The horse that won’t stand still is a danger. One day you’ll be caught in the wrong spot, he’ll get a fright and someone will be hurt. The horse that keeps leaning into you and treading on your (soon to be broken) foot is not fun. The horse that tries to kick when you pick out his feet is going to injure you one day. Good ground manners is about teaching a horse to respect your personal space.

The nervous or disobedient horse is also a danger. The jumpy horse that shies and knocks you over is a liability. The horse that loses his mind and tries to run every time he sees a plastic bag is more than a nuisance. Ground manners is about showing your horse that scary things aren’t so scary and to have confidence in you. To trust that you, as leader and protector, will always keep him safe.

Good manners on the ground makes the transition to riding much smoother and much much simpler. You will have learned to read your horses feelings or mood. He is not your servant. He is your partner. He will have learned unquestioned obedience. As a result, your riding sessions will be more fun.

Taking the time to lay firm foundations will also mean that you will be training a horse that is willing to please, that is EASIER TO TRAIN IN THE LONG RUN, that is a joy to work with and not an obstinate animal that is always acting out. When you choose to own a horse, you’re making a commitment for many years, so you want to be sure you’re going to have a well-behaved and easy to handle horse-friend.

The Basics Of Ground Manners For Your Horse

Teaching good ground manners right from the beginning will result in a horse that is a joy to own, while keeping yourself as safe as possible. Enforcing ground manners will teach your horse to:

* Look to you as leader for what to do whenever he is unsure of a situation (less likely to bolt, shy or be disobedient in new situations)

* Not crowd your personal space (no kicking, biting, charging, leaning, treading on your feet etc)

* Respond appropriately to whatever you are asking him to do

* Have calm confidence in the outside world because you will protect him

* Stand still patiently

* Tie calmly

* Allow you to pick up his feet for cleaning

* Allow you to groom him

* Calmly accept being bridled, haltered and led

* Accept being saddled without moving

* Refrain from nipping, kicking, charging or rearing to get his way

All this BEFORE you get on his back. It is actually a good idea to spend some time with a new horse on getting these basics right before you start riding. Despite how eager you will probably be to hop on and go, spend a few weeks or even months working on ground manners. It pays off in the end. If you’re having trouble with riding your horse, it may also be a wise investment of time to stop riding for a while and get these basics back on track.

So how do you instill those good ground manners in your horse? By understanding how a horse’s mind works. There are 6 basic principles you need to learn that apply to all horse situations.

1. Repetition

It is not widely known that a horse can take around 60 iterations of a lesson to ‘get it’. That’s right. It may take you repeating the exact same lesson 60 times before your horse understands what you are trying to teach. To put this in perspective, if you see your horse once a week and teach the same lesson once each time, then it may take over a year for your horse to learn it. Of course you may try the lesson more than once a session and you may see your horse more than once a week, but it takes TIME and PATIENCE to train a horse effectively.

The good news is that you can be successful in training your horse to have good behavior in any situation. This applies to all horses, whether they are young, old, previously poorly trained or have been in neglectful and abusive situations. You can teach your horse to lead, tone down aggressive behaviors towards people and other horses, teach a nervous horse to be calm, and get rid of bad habits horses learn such as rearing, biting, and kicking. All of this can be attained. But please remember that horse training takes as long as it takes. 60 repetitions is an average.

2. Be a leader to your horse

Horses are herd animals and are mentally wired to look up to the leader of the herd. In a herd, which is the natural situation for a horse, there is a pecking order (order of dominance). The stallion and lead mare are the leaders. Every other horse below them in the pecking order will look to these two to find out how to react in a given situation. If the leaders are calm, the others are calm, if the leaders are running for their lives, the rest of the herd is right behind them. It is also the leaders job to keep an eye out for danger. Or in other words, the leaders signal to the rest of the herd what is dangerous and what is safe. The rest of the herd has 100% faith in their leaders. They follow blindly. They do not think rationally or for themselves. This horse behavior makes a horse very easy to train.

To use this horse behavior to your advantage when youre training your horse, the leader of his herd needs to be you. You MUST show, through your tone of voice, your body language, your confidence, that you are a leader. For example, you cannot expect a horse to walk calmly past a barking dog if you are frightened yourself. If there are situations around your horse that scare you, you need to be inventive and work out how to avoid the situation where your horse can see you as weak. If your horse often charges you, avoid the trigger situation until you have established dominance in other situations. Get outside help if you need it. A horse generally weighs as much as 10 times more than a human, so you cannot expect to out muscle your horse when it behaves inappropriately. It is crucial that you become the leader to your horse so he follows you, rather than dragging you around.

3. Consistency

Being a leader also means having a zero tolerance policy towards your horse invading your personal space or disobeying your requests. In the herd, the pecking order is often challenged. Stay vigilant as the pecking order is never set in stone. If you get slack, the horse will start to dominate you. Be firm, consistent and persistent in applying your rules. You’re either training or de-training your horse every moment you’re with him. Mind the small stuff. It really does matter. Your horse will test you in small ways to see how serious you are. If you don’t hold your ground over your space or do accept a tardy response to a request, you’re effectively eroding the respect he has for you. ‘That’s ok, I don’t really mean stop when I say so’. This is then a green flag for your horse to try on bigger and bigger misbehaviors. For example, don’t let your horse kiss you. Not just for reasons of hygiene! No, letting any horse nibble or kiss you is sending him down the slippery slope of developing a biting habit. After all, a bite is just a firm nibble isn’t it? And a biting problem is not one you want to be dealing with. Painful for you, and difficult to get rid of. In this case, no kisses, no nibbles, no bites. Ever. Be firm, consistent and persistent in applying your ground rules. Absolute CONSISTENCY is the key to fast training.

4. Trust

One of the biggest reasons horses lack good ground manners is the fact they don’t trust as well as respect the people who are handling them. Trust and respect go hand in hand and once you have attained that, the rest of your training is so much easier. As leader (where you earn respect), part of your job is to keep your horse SAFE (where you earn trust). That’s safe from his perspective, not yours. You might think he’s perfectly safe in a trailer, but if he’s never been in one you’ll need to show him that you’ll go into one and that other horses agree it’s safe too. Your job is to prove to your horse that no matter what goes on around him, he will not be harmed. Angry bullying won’t work. Losing your temper won’t work. Banging his teeth with the bit, slapping him unexpectedly on the rump, making loud, sudden noises and unexpected gestures don’t help either. Let your horse know where you are and what you’re up to as much as possible. Be calm, be considerate, be affectionate, be patient. This path leads to earning your horse’s trust, an essential for a long and happy relationship.

5. Be fun

No one, even a horse, enjoys all work and no play. Remember to make your lessons enjoyable. Your aim is to encourage your horse to look forward to hanging out with you. What your horse likes will be individual, but most horses have a place on their body they like having scratched or rubbed. This can be a reward for obedience. Many horses enjoy the mental stimulation of a lesson if it’s not repeated endlessly in one go. More than half an hour on any one lesson at once is too much. 10 or 15 minutes is enough. And horses like variety in their ‘work’. So sometimes go out for a trail ride, sometimes do some jumping, sometimes work in the ring. Mix it up and keep it interesting. A bored horse is a cranky horse, and anyone in a bad mood is likely to misbehave.

6. Comfort

The horse likes a life of comfort. That means, a life free from irritants as well as pain. You can use his dislike of being irritated to your training advantage. Basically, you are looking for non-painful but annoying things you can do to encourage your horse to do as you ask. The key is to remove the irritant immediately when the horse does what you are asking. Stopping the annoying thing you were doing is his reward for doing as you asked. This is the most effective and yet gentle way to teach your horse to do what you ask

One example of irritant training is a technique called pressure and release. An example of pressure and release:

If you wanted your horse to turn its head to the left, you would put your hand in the halter strap and gently pull to the left just slightly. As soon as the horse begins to turn his head left, let go of the halter, releasing the pressure, and praise your horse quietly. If your horse were to pull to the right instead, you would continue to apply gentle pressure to the left until your horse complied, then release and praise again. Through patient, consistent repetition, your horse will learn what you are asking. This is the pressure and release training method in a nutshell, and can be applied throughout your horse’s training.

So these are the 6 basics of teaching ground manners. Repetition; Be a leader; Consistency; Trust; Be fun; and Comfort. Apply these whenever you are around your horse and you will be well on the way to many happy times.

Author: Phil Tragear
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Guest blogger

Do you own a reining horse or young reined cow horse prospect? If so, you know how critical a good stop is to your horse’s success in the show arena. In this discussion, I’m going to talk about reining horse sliding stops. And specifically, ways you can improve your horse’s sliding stop.
We have a lot of ground to cover so let’s get started. There are several factors that influence the length of a horse’s slide.

They are:

#1. The horse’s natural ability and aptitude for stopping.

#2. The ground the horse is stopping on.

#3. The way the horse is shod.

#4. The horse’s rate of speed when going into the stop.

#5. The way the rider cues the horse for the stop (how the reins are worked, rider’s posture, etc.).

I’d like to talk about each of these factors and explain how they effect your horse’s slide.

First, let me make it clear that just about any horse can do a nice little two foot slide on good ground. It’s another thing altogether for a horse to slide 15 or 20 feet. If you want big time stops you need a horse that has the ability and desire to stop.

You’re not going to get the job done on just a so-so kind of horse. And if you try to force a non-stopper into becoming a big-time stopper you may find your training sessions becoming too harsh.

How do you know if your horse has the aptitude to be a good stopper? If it was relatively easy to get him to stop well at the trot or slow lope, chances are you won’t have much of a problem advancing the stop. (Providing you do it gradually and the horse has the necessary strength to hold a hard stop).

On the other hand, if you had hell getting him to stop at the trot or slow lope, you’re going to have more hell trying to get him to stop from a faster pace. Personally, I don’t think it’s worth it to put yourself or the horse through that kind of ordeal.

Let’s talk about how the ground affects a horse’s slide.

It never ceases to amaze me how normally intelligent people can’t figure out that a long slide ain’t gonna happen on bad ground. So, for the sake of clarity let me describe what good sliding ground is. Good sliding ground consists of a hard, packed base that is smooth with two or three inches of loose, fluffy dirt on top.

The advantages of this kind of ground are obvious. The hard packed base gives the horse something solid to slide on. Without it the horse’s feet would dig in the ground too deep thus shortening the slide. The base must also be smooth. If there are any ruts in it a horse’s feet will catch in the rut.

Again this will shorten the slide or worse, injure the horse. It’s important the ground on top of the base be fluffy and loose. Here’s why. This top ground needs to soften the concussion of the feet entering the ground and hitting the hard base. Without a soft cushion to absorb the shock the horse will get sore.

Another reason you want the ground loose and fluffy is so the horse can easily plow through it while sliding. If this top ground is too deep or too heavy it makes it too difficult for the horse to slide very far. He’ll need to be awfully strong to hold a slide in deep, heavy ground.

Here’s a tip for improving your sliding ground. Add rice hulls or shavings to the dirt. This will really fluff it up and make it light.

The way your horse’s hind feet are shod will have a lot to do with how well he slides.

Sliding shoes are advised. They are made of tempered, flat bar iron, one to one and a half inches wide. The wider the shoe the less friction (or grab) on the ground and the longer the slide. There are limits though. I prefer not to go wider than one inch wide shoes.

Again, for less grab, the toe of the shoe is rocked up a quarter inch like the front of a ski. This prevents the toe from jamming in the ground while stopping. The quarters of the shoe should come almost straight back from the toe to allow dirt to easily flow out the back of the shoe.

The trailers should extend all the way back to the bulbs of the foot, but no farther. You also should have the horse’s hind feet trimmed with a little longer toe and a little lower heel than normal. (Normal means the angle of the hoof is the same as the angle of the pastern).

This creates more surface area and makes for a more effective ski. Do not go to extremes with this. The idea is to have the angle of the foot so there is no danger of the horse stubbing his toe in the dirt, knuckling over and hurting himself.

If he’s trimmed at too steep of an angle (heels too high) he’ll knuckle over while stopping and pull a tendon. Trim the heel too low and he’ll strain his ham strings while stopping.

Horses who’s hind legs are straight with feet pointing straight ahead, have an easier time of sliding far. Their hind feet will stay together while sliding and make a nice set of long, straight “11″s. A horse who’s hind feet toe out will have a difficult time sliding far.

Because he toes out, his hind feet will start to spread as he slides. The farther the slide the more he spreads until he’s forced to come out of the slide to bring his feet back together in a more comfortable position.

This horse’s slide tracks will look like a “V”. You can help this by turning the shoe on the foot so it’s pointing more straight ahead. And it sometimes helps to rock the toe a little to the inside of the foot.

The speed your horse is running when going into the stop is one of the major factors dictating the length of the slide.

In other words, if he’s not going fast, he’s not going to slide far.

Let’s say you are going to run down the length of the arena and ask for a sliding stop about of the way down. It’s important to start the run-down real slow. Then, very gradually build speed as you go down the arena and reach the point where you ask for the stop. Do not lope slow almost to the end then bust him into a run.

Gradually means to increase speed a little with each stride. It’s critical to ask for the stop while the horse is accelerating. Why? Because his shoulders are more elevated and his hind legs reach farther under him when he’s building speed (necessary elements for a sliding stop).

Just make sure you time the rate of acceleration so he’s not going too fast when you reach the mark. Otherwise he may run right through the stop. All horses have an optimum running speed where they will still try to stop.

If you run him faster than that optimum speed he just thinks about running and forgets about stopping. Or maybe he’s not strong enough to hold a stop past his optimum speed and refuses to try. You’ll have to experiment to find out just how fast you can run him and still get a stop.

Another thing. Don’t ask your horse to stop from top speed very often. You’ll sour him if you do. And remember to put skid boots on him so his fetlocks are protected.

A lot of riders build speed too quickly, then start to slow down as they near the end of the run-down. They ask the horse to stop while he’s decelerating. The result is usually a disappointing stop. It’s also important for the horse to be running straight when you ask for the stop.

His body should be straight from the tip of his nose to the tip of his tail. If he’s crooked he’ll stop out of balance. Also, his path down the arena must be straight. If he is zigzagging or trying to veer off while making the run-down, his stop will suffer.

The way you “cue” your horse to stop is vitally important.

Using the reins correctly, proper riding posture and timing is what enables your horse to perform a long slide. But before I explain the right way, let me tell you what not to do. Contrary to popular belief, pulling the reins harder does not make for a longer slide. It actually shortens the slide.

Why? Because the hard pull makes the horse jam his feet in the ground too deep. It also causes his hind legs to spread out too much to slide far. And maybe worst of all, a horse can’t keep his balance for a long slide when he’s being pulled on.

OK, that takes care of what not to do. Now let’s talk about how to do it right. On a reining horse there are three different techniques I’ll use to handle the reins. The techniques are different but the principle of why they work is similar.

Why do I use different techniques? Because different horses respond differently. I’ll use the technique that works the best on that particular horse. Let me give you a brief description of the three techniques of using the reins. Then I’ll go into more detail on the one that works on the majority of horses.

The ultimate way of stopping your horse is to just say whoa, slack the reins, then sit there and let him slide. This technique will often times produce the longest slides. Why? Because you’re not interfering with him.

With no pressure in his mouth, he feels free to slide as far as he can. The only problem with this technique is that your horse has to be the kind that really wants to stop. It’s pretty hard to get the average horse to consistently stop this way.

Another technique I’ll use is to say whoa, tighten the reins to apply light pressure, then sit there and let him slide. It’s important to note that the pressure is light, only a pound or two. It’s also important not to pull the reins. Once the pressure is applied, your hand is set solid with no pulling or slacking.

This method works fairly well on horses that don’t want to stay in the slide. The down side is horses usually won’t slide very far with this technique unless you can get away with using very light pressure. Also, if you pull on him instead of setting your hand, he’s going to pull on you and dump on his front end.

Here’s the method I use on the majority of horses I ride. As I’m galloping the horse down the arena I’ll say whoa, wait a split second, then apply rein pressure and set my hand. The horse will go into the stop. My hand is set for only a fraction of a second, then I slack the reins. The horse will continue to hold the slide.

As he’s sliding, if I feel him start to come out of the stop, I’ll set my hand again. Then immediately slack the reins again. This process of setting and slacking the reins goes on throughout the whole slide until the horse is completely stopped. It should be noted that when I slack the reins I don’t give a lot of slack. Only an inch or two.

Let me explain step by step why this sequence of cues works so well.

After I say whoa, giving the horse a split second before the reins are set gives him a chance to go into the stop on his own. This lets him enter the ground more softly and smoothly. (If the reins were used at the same time I said whoa, this would startle the horse causing him to abruptly jam his hind feet in the ground too deep for a long slide).

Once the horse enters the ground, I give him a short, little set with the reins just to remind him to stay in the stop. I immediately slack. Slacking the reins lets him know he’s allowed to slide as far as he wants. (Without the slack he’d get too deep and stop much more abruptly. He also might pull on me or get rigid).

If he tries to come out of the slide I’ll set and slack the reins again. As long as the horse is sliding, I won’t set the reins again unless he starts to come out of the stop. Considering a 20 foot slide takes only a couple seconds to complete, this set and slack sequence is happening pretty rapid. It takes concentration and feel to get it just right.

There is one more element in this stopping sequence I want to talk about… your body posture.

As you’re loping down the arena, you’re using your body to generate energy to keep the horse moving forward. When it’s time to stop the horse, your body also has to stop it’s energy. In other words, you have to completely stop riding and sit down in the saddle relaxed.

Let your back, shoulders and thighs go limp. This is a major stopping cue all horses instinctively respond to. But make darn sure you keep riding until you say the word whoa, otherwise the horse will start the stop prematurely and ruin the slide.

This “body posture” stuff is extremely important and your horse will never stop as good as he could until you get it.

I know I’ve probably made this sound too complicated and difficult. But, you can do it. It just takes some concentration and practice. If you don’t get it immediately don’t get discouraged and give up. Relax, be patient and you’ll get it.

Resources:

There are two training videos I recommend that are detailed enough to show you how to get your horse stopping well. They are:

Teach Your Horse to Stop Light and Collected, volume 1.5

Teach Your Horse to Stop Light and Collected, volume 2

Alright, that’s all for now.

Have fun training your horse.

Larry Trocha,

Larry Trocha Training Stable

Author: Larry Trocha
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Programmable pressure cooker

Horse, like people have many different personalities. Many like to think that a horse is reminiscent of its owner. I must say I find this to be very true from my own personal experience. I think that it is very important for a horse owner or future horse owner to know how to handle your horse or potential horse, and understand how a horse’s senses work.

Healthy horses have a very keen sense of smell. Your horse more than likely will have a craving for grain or apples for example. An apple doesn’t have much smell, but if you have one in your pocket your horse will definitely smell it and know exactly what pocket its in. He will probably be sniffing at your pocket and nudging you for it. If you’re out on a trail with your horse your horse can smell many things before you even notice them, such as hikers, deer, mountain bikers etc… sometimes I find that horse will snort at certain smells, to me this is kind of an alert.

Along with smell horses also have a keen sense of hearing which they use in conjunction with the sense of smell. You will notice that your horse flicks its ears often sometimes pricking them forward and turning them to the side. This is an indication that your horse is paying attention to the sounds in the environment around him. This is a natural prey instinct. I also find that when horses prick their ears back towards you, they are paying attention to you and your cues as well. Horses use their ears to not only listen but to also talk to you. When a horse pricks his ears forward look at the direction they are pointing and you’ll find out what your horse is investigating. It could be another horse, coyote, hay truck etc… When you horse pens his ears, it’s usually an indication he’s angry, disgruntled, or upset.

A horse’s tail is another form of communication. A horse’s tailbone is actually and extension of its spine, but a horse can express himself through his tail. You can actually tell what a horse is thinking by the positioning of his tail. A relaxed horse usually lays his tail against his body in a natural manner. Sometimes a horse will hold its slightly out away from his body as a balancing mechanism while trotting or cantering. A scared horse tucks or clamps his tail to his body. A happy or excited horse lifts its tail high like a flag. And unhappy or irritated horse swishes his tail at you or another horse. Horses also use the tail to swat flies.

A horse has keen sight. The horse sees differently than people do. The horse’s eye has a different physical structure than the human eye. A horse will raise his head to focus on close objects and lower its head to see distant objects. In addition horses are also color blind. Due to the placement of the horse’s eye being on the sides of the head, he has lateral vision. Meaning he can see two separate images at the same time. It is a good idea when working with your horse, to work on both sides of your horse.

Horses also communicate by voice with other horses and by body language. If you watch horses in a pasture you will see this often. Horse will swish their tails at eat other when the want space. They will also kick at each other if another horse or human is too close. You will see horses push each other with their bodies when they want another horse to move or want to show dominance. Horses will also do this with humans and to my amazement many horse owners allow this. This is a definite no no, and needs correction.

By carefully observing your horses you will learn a lot about how to think like a horse.

Author: Gary Houston
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Digital Camera News

In this series of articles I will explain how to take a young/ untrained horse and safely teach it to lead. This will help to deepen your relationship, and the level of communication with your horse. Each article will have a systematic approach that will be both easy to understand, and to teach your horse. I will break down each baby step and teach you how to teach your horse each lesson. There will be examples in the training phase that has corrections and also what responses to watch for in your horse. My hope is that this will “demystify” some of the concepts in working with young/ untrained horses.

This article is written on the assumption that you have already taught your horse to accept a halter. It is also based on the assumption that you have handled a young or untrained horse before. If you are NOT comfortable in handling a young or untrained horse please consult with a professional trainer.

Part 1: Overview of Equipment

First of all you are going to need several items in order to make this safe for both you and your horse:

1. A halter that is in good condition and is correctly fit to your horse.

2. A sturdy lead rope that is also in good condition.

3. A dressage whip

4. A riding helmet that is ASTM/ SEI certified

5. An indoor or outdoor arena (not a round pen, you need a “flat” wall)

6. Gloves (optional, but good protection for your hands)

First of all, the equipment should fit your horse correctly. To make sure that we are on the same page I will explain how to correctly fit a halter to your horse. It should be on tight enough that the throatlatch (the piece that lies underneath the horses throat) is not more than couple of inches from the jowls. You want enough space for a couple of fingers to fit between the throatlatch and the throat. When the halter is on you also need to have room to fit two or three fingers underneath the noseband and below the cheekbone. The halter should lie no more than an inch below the cheekbone. See figure 1 for horse halter anatomy.

Figure 1 Labeled Halter

Remember, the halter needs to be correctly fit to your horse so that is does not slip off or twist around on your horses face. If the halter twists around on your horses face it can cause discomfort, and make training much more difficult.

A sturdy lead rope is another piece of necessary equipment. Soft cotton lead ropes with a brass bolt snap are very sturdy and easy to attach or remove from the halter. It is also fairly “soft” on your hands and does not cause you to get rope burn if you chose not to use gloves.

The next piece of equipment is a dressage whip. The reason for a dressage whip is they are a good length (39″ to 43″) to use easily and quietly during training. The whip becomes an extension of your arm and creates a shape or position that the horse understands. It is not used to punish a horse but rather to reinforce the commands given.

An ASTM/ SEI certified helmet is the next piece of equipment that is needed, especially when working with young or untrained horses. I have a strict helmet policy for all of my students. My philosophy is you can never be too careful when working with an animal that can weigh around 1000 pounds.

The final piece of equipment is the arena. I recommend using a flat wall arena and not a round pen for teaching a horse to lead. Using a flat wall helps to keep the horses body straight. Using a round pen will tend to angle the horse’s haunches towards you, which can make it difficult to stay out of the “kicking zone”. If the horse’s haunches can easily reach you then you increase your chances of being kicked.

The main reason for using an arena is you will a have a full corridor of aids. The outside wall will actively work as another you on the other side keeping your horse straight. (During riding the outside wall works as your outside seat bone, outside leg, and outside rein.) These aids help to communicate a particular “shape” you want the horse to follow. The wall will keep your horse from turning his haunches away from you and will not add the extra confusion of not having outside aids. One last reason for using an arena is if your horse gets away from you then he will not have much of a place to go. This will make it easier to catch your horse and start working with him or her again.

Working with a young or untrained horse can increase the odds of accidents; safety for both the handler and horse must always come first. Next month’s article will focus on the training of your horse, and will go into details that make this safe, simple, and enjoyable

Learn something new every month from Horse Logic. A new article will be featured every month in From the Horses Mouth by: Sara McKiness from Horse Logic.

Author: Sara McKiness
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Duty tariff

A well-broke horse is a joy to work around. A horse that always tries to get his own way can be a nuisance. They can also be dangerous. Proper training can put the respect back in a horse and make him more enjoyable to work around. Training shows a horse that it is easier and more comfortable to do as we ask than to do otherwise. A horse should respect you and your cues, not fear them.

I’ve compiled a list of handy tips that if used consistently, should put the respect and trust back in your training program with a minimum of effort. As your horse gains in respect and understanding, you’ll find that he tests you less and less, making him easier and more enjoyable to work with.

If you are leading a horse and he tries to drag you, walk past you, or pull the rope from your hand, stop him and make him back five to six steps. Ask him to walk forward. Repeat the correction as needed. Once he understands that he will get corrected each and every time he tries to drag you, he will stop trying.

Teach a horse to respect you and your cues on the ground and that will carry over to work under saddle. If you teach a horse to respect a verbal “Whoa!” command from the ground, he should also respect that command when given from his back.

If you teach a horse to lead respectfully along side you, loading into a trailer should no longer be an issue. He will learn that he must go where you direct. “No” is not an option.

Use the law of opposites. If you’ve asked your horse to stop, and he tries to walk forward, make him back four or five steps. If you ask him to stop, and he turns to the left, turn him twice as far to the right. If he moves to the right, turn him twice as far to the left. If he wants to go forward, make him back a few steps. Enforce that you , not he, choose the direction of travel. You are the driver, not a passenger. Do not “give in” because it is easier. That teaches a horse that he can ignore your cues. It will become harder and harder to make your horse obey if you don’t enforce obedience each and every time you ride.

Remember that long standing habits will take more than just one correction to cure the horse. Do not get mad or punish him, just repeat the correction for as long as it takes. (It may take weeks, even months, but continue correcting each and every time.) Given enough time, most bad habits can be broken and replaced with good behavior.

If a horse refuses to cross an obstacle, dismount and hand walk him over it. Lots of patience may be in order, but spend the time until he will cross. It may mean that you have to hand place a foot, rub his neck to praise him to tell him he responded correctly, hand place the next foot, praise him, etc. Do not give up and let him win, but be sure not to get angry and react in anger. Patience is a virtue. Spend the time today to show him what you want. It takes as long as it takes. It will be shorter tomorrow, and even shorter the following day. If a horse trusts that you will never put him in a situation that will hurt him, and that he must always obey the go forward cue, you’ll find the horse will not only learn to cross that same obstacle, but many of the others that you place in front of him. Go forward means go forward. You are building trust and respect.

Ask a horse to do something three times, then go on to something else. Asking more than three times can cause a horse to think that he is being corrected. Asking a horse to perform the same maneuver over and over will make him sour on that maneuver. If that was his best maneuver, soon it will become his worst. He will learn to hate it if you ask him to repeat it over and over.

The easiest way to train a horse to do anything is to reward good behavior. You must let a horse know that he has done what you are asking of him. If you teach a horse to back up, and he takes a half step back, immediately release pressure and praise him. A small step today becomes a big step tomorrow and two steps on the following day. Ask three times and go on to something else. Ask again the next day. Training takes time!

If you ride in arena, and your horse tries to cut towards the center to make the circle smaller, make him circle to the outside, in the opposite direction from that in which he chose. Small circles are uncomfortable for a horse and he will try to avoid that which causes him to be uncomfortable. Make three tight circles to the outside, then continue around the arena. If he cuts in again, repeat the correction. If you correct him, each and every time he cuts in, he will learn that it is easier to stay on the rail.

Any time you correct your horse, remember that you have three seconds or less to correct him so he will associate the punishment with the “crime”. If you miss that three-second time frame, wait for the next time he misbehaves. Waiting longer than three seconds to punish a horse will confuse him. He will not understand what the correction was for.

Begin each ride with a short session of walking. This is not only good for a horse’s physical well-being, but it keeps him thinking mentally slow while you mount and begin each ride. A horse that is taught to walk off will seldom try to run off while you’re mounting.

End each ride by walking. Walking for four to five minutes after each ride allows the lactic acid (which builds up in the horse’s muscles) to dissipate so he is not muscle-sore the next day. It also lets him unwind mentally. This will teach him to begin and end each ride slowly and calmly.

Never dismount by the gate. A gate becomes a magnet to a horse. Many horses stop at one in anticipation of you getting off. Dismount in a different area every time that you ride. Keep him guessing as to when the ride ends!

Enforcing obedience develops a successful partnership between horse and rider. He learns what you expect of him and you learn what he will give. Always use a fair and consistent approach that enforces obedience and thoughtfulness. Both you and your horse will benefit. May all your rides be safe and enjoyable.

Author: Laurie Truskauskas-Knott
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Pressure cooker

Your horse has just tried to bite you! You can’t understand why this animal that you love and care for would behave in such a way. Horses that bite people are displaying an aggressive, unsafe behaviour that needs to be changed.

The first step in changing any behaviour is to understand the underlying cause of it. Horses are prey animals that live in herds and run from danger. Their first instinct is to run away when they feel their safety is threatened. If they are unable to run away, they will fight to defend themselves by aggressively biting, kicking or striking.

What causes a domestic horse that is being cared for and loved by humans to become aggressive and bite his or her caregiver? There are 2 reasons for this undesirable behaviour.

1) The human is inadvertently causing stress to the horse by their own behaviour and body language and the horse is unable to leave. Usually this is caused by the human sending forward, impulsive energy towards the horse’s head and neck area while working around the horse that is tied up or confined in a small space such as a stall. Horses feel most vulnerable around their head and neck because this is where predators attack to kill.

2) Young colts tend to bite because this is stallion behaviour. In the wild, stallions must compete with each other to win a band of mares and the right to breed them. This is why young colts and even some older geldings play fights can look quite aggressive. The play is practice for potential future fights.

The traditional method of breaking the behaviour of biting people is to smack the horse in the mouth or face. Some people even go so far as biting the horse back. Neither of these tactics is particularly effective in stopping the biting. Hitting the horse in the face, from the horse’s perspective, is a very aggressive behaviour. It either makes the horse head-shy and/or escalates the behaviour as the horse becomes more aggressive. In both cases, the human is being reactive after the horse has bitten them.

A better way to stop this behaviour involves working with the horse’s psychology and being proactive to prevent the bite. In the herd, a horse that misbehaves or shows disrespect to higher ranking horses is pushed out of the herd. This is the absolutely worst punishment for any horse as isolation from the herd increases the vulnerability to predators. The exiled horse is only allowed back into the herd once he or she has shown signs of respect and submission.

Prevent your horse from biting by following these steps:

1) Be respectful of your horse’s personal space (head and neck area) by not sending forward energy from your body into that area. If you are standing beside your horse, stand with your weight even on both legs or resting on the leg farthest from your horse’s head so that your hip is not aimed into your horse’s head.

2) Ask your horse to be respectful of your personal space. Picture your personal space as a bubble around you. Block your horse from coming into your bubble unless you invite him or her in and he or she is respectful – low head, not pushing, etc.

3) Be aware of signs that your horse is threatening to bite or be pushy to you and proactively send him or her away from you with a push or a tap on the shoulder. Even if your horse manages to get in a nip or a bite do not hit him or her in the face. Only ever hit you horse on the body and send him or her away from you. Do not let your horse come back into your space until he or she is completely calm, non-threatening and showing signs of respect.

Working with an understanding of horse psychology as well as diagnosing the cause behind behaviours is a much more effective way of working with and training horses than simply focusing on the symptom (in this case, biting). You will develop a stronger bond with your horse built on mutual trust and respect. Your horse will no longer see you as a potential threat, but as a benevolent leader and trusted herd mate.

Author: Anne Gage
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: US Dollar credit card

On the first day of the Royal Melbourne Summer Horse Show last year a group of friends and I sat ringside watching some of the classes. Rider after rider, or handler after handler, yanked, jerked and wrenched at their horse’s mouths with the bit making us endlessly cringe.

All of us, in the previous week, had read an article that had forever changed our view of the bit and its use with horses.

One of us is an elite theatrical show horse trainer; another is a breeder, two more are pony club instructors, one is a saddlery store owner. All of us, at one time or another, have been converted to so called “natural” horsemanship. That is to say, we have sought a different way, a non-aggressive way, of achieving a well mannered and calm horse.

We are sitting in the shade, watching an in-hand class of supremely turned out hacks. Two handlers have curbs on their horses and they repeatedly yank on their charges’ mouths.

The stories flow thick and fast between us.

The theatrical show horse trainer recounts how her equine dentist discussed anatomy with her once, explaining that most people – because they want to do the right thing – will buy a thicker, plainer bit, thinking the thinner kind sharper and more cruel. And this is fine.

For some horses.

But you get other horses, horses with smaller mouths, less room between top and bottom jaw, for whom a thick bit like that can be incredibly uncomfortable. Because it just doesn’t fit, it’s too big. And then the horse resists and opens its mouth and fights the rider’s control.

“So we go and tie its mouth closed!” my friend exclaims.

The saddlery store owner talks about a Pony Club parent who came in seeking a twisted wire W bit because their pony, after years of good behaviour, suddenly refused to go left. Another PC parent advised them to try this bit, the magical answer to all control.

“Thankfully,” says the saddlery owner, “we didn’t have one.”

She goes on to say that in a round about way her husband, an equine vet, got to go out and see that pony later on the same day. It had a very severe abscess in its left near hoof.

Privately I have always thought if you have to add more and more equipment to your horse to make it do what you want then it’s time to give the game up.

FEI rules require submission to the rider and the bit. But which bit? Does it have to be a curb or double bridle? Top trainers, Monty Roberts, Andrew McLean, Janice Usherwood, Parelli, and others, all have said that the double and curb bridles made mandatory by FEI rules are instruments of torture that should, that must, be outlawed.

I am about to show you why.

Some of you may be familiar with the Nevzarov’s, a Russian couple who practice and teach Haute Ecole Dressage bitless and bridleless. Alexander Nevzarov created the both horrifying and ultimately beautiful and liberating film & book The Horse Crucified And Risen, a documentary about the horse’s long association with man.

The Nevzarov’s commissioned a scientific study with the Forensics & Medical Examination Office, St Petersburg, Russia, to document the effects of double and curb bits on the horse’s mouth. Taking part in the experiment were Forensic scientists, Vets and journalists (who recorded the experiment on video). The results were published in Horses For Life Magazine (US).

For the purpose of the experiments a model horse head was created that included a tongue made from Ballistin, a substance that closely fits the structure and density of living tissue (though not the flexibility). The Ballistin tongue was used to record the “hit”, or pressure, placed upon the mouth by the bit.

While the experiment itself could not measure pain it was able to measure the amount of pressure placed on the tongue, jaw and other oral structures in the horse’s mouth.

To begin with it was discovered that an “ordinary rider” with “good” (light) hands exerts about 120-130kg of pressure per square centimetre. The pressure is felt directly by the Trigeminal Nerve, a branch of which (mandibular nerve) runs along the jawbone and – owing to the lack of muscle along the bar of the jaw – is reasonably unprotected and exposed. This means there is almost direct contact with this nerve by the bit.

An article by staff at the University Of Lincoln, UK, on headshaking reports that it is thought that the head shaking condition is thought to be caused by either pressure to this nerve or the nerve itself “misfiring”, causing spasms of pain. “There are many sources for potential nerve pain in the horse’s head but the vets think that branches of the trigeminal nerve which conducts sensation from the muzzle and face to the brain may be the main source, particularly the Infraorbital nerve which is a branch of the maxillary. For some reason, parts of this nerve may be damaged and ‘fire’ inappropriately causing painful sensations in a particular area, i.e. the nerves are telling the horse that it is being hurt in this area when in reality it is not.”

Lidia Nevzarov writes that this particular nerve is super-sensitive. She says, “According to descriptive adjectives pain like that in the area of the nerve is called ‘especially acute, burning, paralysing’.”

And that’s from a rider with good hands.

A sharp jerk, like those we witnessed at the Royal Show last week, can exert a pressure of 300kg per square centimetre.

Now you know why a horse’s first reaction is to throw his head up and back when being jerked in the mouth like that.

This jerking in the mouth syndrome is not uncommon. In fact I would say that most of us witness it regularly, even daily, at riding schools, Agistment parks, shows, pony clubs. But it is so common we don’t think about it.

The central lingual (lingualis) nerve of the tongue also feels this pressure – 100kg per square centimetre in ordinary (“not doing anything”) contact. A jerk increases pressure to this area to about 250-300kg per square centimetre. As with the Trigeminal Nerve this pressure causes intense discomfort and pain. In the experiment the Ballistin tongue was crushed by such pressure; a real tongue, comprised of living tissue, reshapes itself, though the pressure and pain is still felt and injury still occurs.

Lidia Nevzarov presents photos of two jawbones – one from a bitted horse and one from a horse that has never known a bit. The jaw of the unbitted horse is smooth and clean while the jaw of the bitted horse shows clear wear right on the bar where the bit rests; grooves and chips. So, our hands’ action on the horse’s mouth is strong enough to groove and chip bone.

Another branch of the Trigeminal Nerve (which runs along the jaw) exists in the groove under the chin – exactly where the curb chain rests. Again this area has no muscle to protect it, just skin, blood vessels and bone exist. Anatomically it is an ideal place to apply crippling pressure.

The researchers found that the curb chain applies an average of 300kg of pressure per square centimetre to this sensitive area. In fact, they found that exerting pressure on this area was able to break off the lower part of the model horse’s jaw.

A living horse’s jaw, of course, can withstand far greater pressure but we are not talking about breaking a horse’s jaw, but rather the amount of pain we subject horses to through the use of standard riding equipment.

Lidia Nevzarov goes on to say that the Hard Palate (palatum duram) also sustains damage and experiences two kinds of pressure – constant, caused by the bit resting in the mouth; and hits, caused by applied pressure to the reins in a jerking motion. The palate is composed of mucous membrane that varies in thickness between 2mm (the grooves of the palate) and 6mm (the ridges) and this mucous membrane is all that sits between the bit and the palate nerve, palatines major. Pressures of 180-200kg per square centimetre were recorded and Nevzarov talks about the hematomas (bruises) present under the mucous membrane of the hard palate (on a dissected horse used in the experiment) as being an indication of the force applied causing injury.

Dr Cook, FRCVS., PhD, who created the modern Bitless Bridle, points out that “A fundamental principle of correct saddle fit is that the saddle should never contact bone. This principle is forgotten when it comes to bits. A metal rod in the mouth makes direct contact with unprotected bone at the bars [and], not surprisingly, bits commonly cause painful bone spurs to develop on the bars.”

The Nevzarov study successfully proved the amount of pressure that is applied directly to the horse’s jaw and oral structures and the damage it can do.

As a “technology” – The practical application of science to commerce or industry – the bit was developed some 5000 years ago by bronze age horsemen. While the design has changed and evolved, the use of the bit has not.

As we continuously expand our knowledge and our ability for scientific research we perhaps also need to expand, or change, the way we think in line with the results we find and the knowledge we gather.

To say that we cannot ride without the bit, or control the horse without the bit, that the whole concept of dressage (for example) relies on the bit, is a belief firmly entrenched in mythology, “tradition” and a rigid unwillingness to explore new paths.

There are many examples of fine horsemanship – and horse men and women – who exhibit perfect control of their horses without the need for a bit. Stacey Westfall, rode a winning round in a high level reining competition, bareback and bridleless. Steve Jeffries, the Nevzarov’s, Cavalia, Zingaro Monty Roberts, Quantum Savvy – all perform without the use of bits and bridles, so we know it can be done.

http://www.horseyard.com.au/components/com

In many ways I see it as a shame that riders and regulatory bodies seem incapable of exploring horse control and submission without the use of such aids.

What a contest it would be where riders competed at the highest level bridleless. This would test a rider’s control of their horse, and the horse’s willingness to submit, like no other method. Further, as horse riders and competitors I believe we should challenge the peak ruling bodies – FEI, EFA, AQHA and all others – to instigate non -point rounds of competition for riders to compete bitless and demonstrate that control of the horse, at the highest level, is achievable without the use of a piece of metal in their mouth.

Don’t tell me it can’t be done. The only thing stopping you is the way you think.

Author: Geraldine Chapman
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Excise Tax

Respect. These seven letters are absolutely essential to a happy, healthy and enjoyable relationship with your horse. Whether your vision with your horse is of precise dressage circles, long ambling trail rides or eventing, if you don’t have respect on the ground you won’t have it in the saddle. Gaining your horse’s respect is a simple and essential part of horse ownership that helps you build a strong relationship with him, and it starts with understanding why your horse is the way he is.

Understanding Your Horse’s Needs

Horses belong in a herd; evolutionarily speaking, horses are prey animals that benefit from numbers. In a running herd, predators have trouble focusing on and bringing down a single animal in a group of 20. An essential part of this herd is its hierarchy. If you spend a day watching your horse in the pasture with other horses you will see constant movement; at first this movement may seem random and aimless, but if you look closely you will see that all movement begins with one horse that sets off a chain reaction among the others. Horses will move and shift constantly, from patch of grass to piles of hay to watering trough, moved around by the boss of the pasture; while your horse may favor one section of grass or area of the pasture, the boss can move him off at will, pinning her ears and lowering her head, perhaps with a snaky, swaying movement or teeth bared, moving towards what she wants with very pointed energy. If your horse does not move when presented with these obvious physical signs, the boss will proceed with more physical interventions, biting or kicking to get the reaction she is looking for. If there are horses lower in the hierarchy than the horse that was moved off, that horse will proceed to move another horse, and then another, and so on until they have all moved to a different patch of grass or pile of hay.

The hierarchy of the dominant horse is fairly stable but can change; even something as simple as putting on a fly mask or a turnout blanket can shake up the herd and result in squeals, kicks and challenges until things settle down again with a (sometimes) new boss. As uncomfortable as it may look from the outside, horses feel safer when they understand who is in charge and where they fall in the ranks of the herd. A lead horse not only says who eats what, when and where but also keeps an eye out for predators and keeps track of new foals; this horse also controls the speed and direction of movement in the event that the herd needs to run from a predator.

A Herd of Two

A horse’s need to feel safe as part of a herd’s hierarchy does not diminish when it is just you and your horse, and there is only one safe way for you two to form your own herd: you must be the boss. If you do not assert yourself, gaining (and keeping) your horse’s respect, you will become the owner of a horse who is (or becomes over time) pushy during feeding time, pushy when being led, pushy under saddle and pushy in general. Eventually you will have a dangerous horse that cannot be trusted on the ground and certainly should not be trusted under saddle. Your horse needs direction and guidance, and if he does not get it from you he will assume he is the one in charge and act accordingly.
Where to Start

When we think of getting our first horse, most of us have images of saddling up and riding, galloping across an open field on a sunny day, or completing a lightening-fast barrel run or dressage pattern or meandering along sun-dappled trails through the woods. Reality is something quite different. If your goal is to build a relationship with your horse that will last their lifetime, the first step is building respect, and respect begins on the ground. For the purposes of this article, we will assume that your horse’s most basic needs are being met so that he is receptive to this type of basic training. Your horse should be on a sound and regular feeding schedule designed to keep him at optimum health, and even if you have adopted or purchased a horse that is weak from hunger or illness, you can still address some basic respect issues without harming your horse. If you are unsure, check first with your vet to get the go-ahead, and then proceed slowly, being mindful of your horse’s comfort and building from there.

For all exercises that follow, remember to repeat them from both sides of your horse’s head, and make sure to practice them regularly and consistently; stay calm and firm when you ask you horse to do something, and reward even his smallest try. A horse that lowers his head and begins to lick his mouth or make chewing motions is a horse who is thinking about what you are asking him to do, and this is what you want: a thoughtful horse. If this is your first time doing groundwork, remember that you are training yourself, too; as you work with your horse, your body language and cues will become clearer and easier to understand, and your horse will relax and follow your lead.

Basic Exercises

The purpose of these first exercises is to show the horse that you control their feet (direction). Going back to the example of the boss horse moving the herd away from their food, remember that the boss was able to get the other horses moving with eye contact and body language. So that’s where we’ll start. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure, so start small and increase your motions until you get a result, then back off instantly.

Many professional trainers recommend using a rope halter with two knots over the nose, and a ten-foot lead rope. The reason for the rope halters as opposed to a basic web halter is that a stubborn horse can lean against a web halter, effectively resisting your cues and making it nearly impossible for you to feel their slightest try. In a shoving match, your horse will win, and that is not the goal in the first place. You are looking to get maximum response from minimum pressure (a “light” horse), and a rope halter helps you to give smaller cues first and feel the response more quickly than a nylon halter. Do not wait to start until you have a rope halter; groundwork for respect should begin the second the first hoof hits the property! You can always get a different halter later.

There are four basic exercises for respect: backing, releasing the hindquarters, releasing the forequarters and leading.

Backing

Backing is simply getting your horse to move backwards out of your space on command. Not only does backing reinforce the very basic requirements of respect (for the horse to move away when you ask him), but it also makes him safer to approach in the pasture and during feeding time when you ask him to move away from gates or his feeder. There are two basic ways to back your horse: standing at his side beside his ears, or cuing him from in front of his head, facing him.

For the first method, start on either side of your horse, holding a couple inches below the clip on the halter in one hand, and the rest of the lead rope in your other hand (remember not to hold the rope in loops, with your hand in the middle). Putting slight pressure on the halter, step toward the horse’s shoulder. You are looking for one step backwards from any foot. If you need to, jiggle the halter slightly with the hand holding the clip and/or add additional pressure back towards the shoulder. Do not hesitate; be firm and sure. Do not release the pressure until your horse steps backwards, then release it instantly. The release of pressure is their reward for doing the right thing. As you progress, your horse should be taking more steps backwards, with more energy and less pressure. This requires patience and persistence. Eventually you want to be able to step towards their shoulder and have them back until you stop. Whichever side you start on, remember to move to the other side of your horse’s head and repeat.

The second method is adapted from several different natural horsemanship trainers; each trainer puts their own particular spin on this method. A rope halter does work best with this method, but again it is not required.

Stand in front of your horse’s head, just slightly off to one side (you do not want to be in their blind spot directly in front of them, but you also don’t want them to move to one side), about four feet away. The first step to this may leave you feeling a little silly; make eye contact with your horse, and think to yourself as hard as you can “Back up.” Try to convey just through eye contact the same thing the herd boss would, to get out of your way or else. If your horse does not respond to this (and many will not the first time out), start to gently wiggle the lead rope with one hand while making “sh-sh-sh” noises. Your horse’s head may come up slightly, and his ears may prick forward; his listening. Again, here you are looking for one step backwards. Gradually increase the motion of your wrist and the lead rope so that the halter may end up rubbing all over his nose. This is very unpleasant for your horse, and he will want to move away (back!) from it. Do not move towards him; wait for him to move away from you. The second he steps back, stop all wiggling and noise and praise him. You may have to wiggle the rope with pretty big movements at first, but he will figure it out quickly to escape the rubbing halter. As you progress through this exercise, his head should come down when you ask him to back, with very little pressure required. With this method you may be able to get your horse so light and responsive that he backs when he hears the noise!

Work on backing (either method, or both to mix it up) as long as it takes him to take as many energetic steps backwards as you need; go as slow as your horse needs (be patient) but remember that you are establishing your role as the dominant “horse” in your herd of two. If your horse knows what you are asking but lazily moves back on his own time, or only gives one or two steps, increase the pressure until he does what you are telling him to do. The idea is to first ask, then show, then tell him what to do.

Troubleshooting

If you start with a horse that really has no respect for you or your space you will need to march him out of your way at first. With the lead rope in one hand and a dressage crop (or similar crop or training stick without a whip attached) begin marching in place, swinging the crop out in front of your knees and really exaggerating a high-stepping march in place, with hands pumping up and down as well; establish a rhythm in place (while your horse looks at you like you are crazy), then begin marching toward him. Continue your rhythm. If your horse does move, he will get the dressage crop on his chest and a hand on his chin. Your goal is not to hurt your horse, but he needs to know you are serious, so if he is not moving by the time the crop reaches him, make sure he feels it. This is the same as the herd boss baring his teeth and biting out. You are not being mean or beating your horse; if you cannot get him to move out of your way he poses a real threat to your safety. He must understand that you are not to be run over or stepped on, and this teaches him that lesson.

Next Steps

After your horse takes multiple, energetic steps backwards with minimal pressure from you, try backing over trot poles, or try varying the direction by moving your focus further back on his body to his hip (so he’ll swing to one side or the other). Once he has learned to back and respect your space, keep his refresher training sessions short and effective so that he stays engaged and willing. It is best to apply these skills to real situations, so after you catch him in the pasture back him for a few steps when you open the gate, or back him into his stall at night.

Releasing (Disengaging) the Hindquarters

The second stage of gaining respect by controlling your horse’s direction is getting him to release his hindquarters on command. A horse that is soft and supple in the hindquarters is a horse with beautiful lead flying lead changes, instantaneous sidepass, seamless direction changes and a spook that happens in place, instead of down the road. Some trainers will have you work on lateral flexion (bending their heads softly to one side or the other) prior to moving the hindquarters, but this method can get you moving their feet before they are completely flexed in the neck. As you work on perfecting this you can add lateral flexion, but as our goal is respect and establishing you as the dominant horse, we’ll start with movement of the feet and add flexion in next steps.

Start on the near (left) side of the horse, facing his head and standing behind where the girth would be; hold the lead rope in your left hand and place your right arm on your horse’s back, without crossing over to the other side. Apply pressure to the lead rope by pulling back slightly, just until your horse turns his head; once the horse turns slightly, release the pressure and let him straighten up. Repeat at least three times on each side. The goal in this case is to get your horse flexing to the side, not to touch their side completely; you just want to see their eye facing you. After the third time, hold the horse’s head slightly flexed, drop your right hand down to the side where a rider’s heel might ask for movement, and bump his side slightly with the heel of your hand, keeping gentle pressure on the lead rope. Here you are looking for your horse to release his hindquarters, crossing his left hind leg in front of his right hind leg. At the beginning, look for just one step across, and not a shuffle; you need to see one leg cross in front of the other one, not just shuffle around. When you get it, instantly stop bumping and release all pressure, praising verbally and rubbing the spot you were bumping with your hand. Repeat this exercise as many times as necessary to get that one step with light pressure. Eventually you will have a horse who releases quickly, pivoting on the front legs. Remember to practice this on both sides of the horse, and alternate releasing the hindquarters with backing.

Troubleshooting

If your horse moves forward as he releases, he is really just walking a circle around you, and you are looking for a swinging hind end. Release some of the pressure on the halter, as he may think you are trying to walk him, and raise your hand in front of his eye to stop him from walking toward you. Make sure he can feel you bumping his side; you’re not playing patty cake. You should definitely reward the try, but make sure your horse understands you mean it when you tell him to do something. You can also step towards his hindquarters with a big movement, and he should move out of your way.

Next Steps

When your horse releases his hindquarters with minimum pressure, pivoting or moving very little with his front legs, add a backing exercise to the end. Give him a little more lead rope, and when he swings to face you, begin to back him up using whichever method works best for you.

Additionally, for a good stretch, you can begin to ask your horse to flex his neck in either direction to touch his side. Stand beside your horse either facing his body or his head, close to the point of his hip, drape the end of your lead rope over your horse’s back. If you start on the near side, slide your left hand down the lead rope towards the clip, and when you get about a foot and a half away, pull back and slightly up towards the withers (this is where you would pull towards in the saddle). When the horse stretches back towards his side by any amount, release instantly and let him relax for five to ten seconds before flexing again. Sometimes you can tickle their whiskers if (they have any), and they will reach further; other trainers suggest you take their head in one hand and their tail in the other and get them to stretch to touch their tail. For any of the flexing exercises, a rope halter is almost imperative; a stubborn horse will lie back on the webbing and wait patiently for you to stop asking. If that happens, bump the lead rope slightly and get ready to release if they try even a little. You always want to end on a positive note, right as the horse is working with you and attentive.

Releasing (Disengaging) the Forequarters

Now that you have your horse backing smoothly and releasing the hindquarters lightly, it’s time to work on the front end. If the hind is the engine, the front is the steering wheel. Gaining control over your horse’s forequarters will give you more confidence when you mount up; he will know you mean business when you are directing him because you laid the foundation of control on the ground.

Stand on either side, approximately parallel to your horse’s ear, maybe a little back. You do not want to be too far back, as your horse will feel like you are driving him forward, and you don’t want to be too far in front of him, as he will think you are asking him to back up. With the lead rope in one hand, making sure he has enough room so you aren’t pulling on his face, but not so much room that he can just move away and avoid the action, raise your hands to eye level, and begin to rhythmically wave both hands toward him. His head will probably come up to avoid your hands; try to keep them at his eye level. If you horse is especially tall, you may want to add a crop or other training stick to lengthen your arm. Again, you are looking for one step, this time one front leg crossing over the other. Increase the pressure every five or so waves by making them move bigger, or thumping on his neck. Your goal here is not to hurt your horse but to imitate the boss in the pasture; when you say move, he needs to MOVE and NOW. For some horses, this may mean a thump or two on the neck, but do check yourself and make sure you are increasing the pressure because it is time, not because you are frustrated.

Troubleshooting

If your horse backs up when you are asking for the release, that is okay; he is trying to figure out what you are asking him to do. Do not increase the level of pressure; stay with him, and keep asking. When he stops backing but still does not respond then you can increase your pressure.

If your horse moves forward to run away from pressure, immediately back him 10-20 steps and start over again. Make sure you are not standing too far back (so your body language is moving him forward), but do not otherwise let him move forward. He is entering your space unbidden, and that is not safe.

Next Steps

Once your horse smoothly releases from both the front and the back, alternate between them; release the hind, then release the front. See if you can get him to release by just looking at the point of his hip or his shoulder. Back in between releases, and make sure to praise and give time to rest.
Leading

The final exercise for gaining your horse’s respect on the ground is teaching him how to lead safely. The reasons for the exercise need little explanation; you cannot have a horse that runs up over you, cuts you off, or steps on your feet when you cross in front of him. In the wild, the dominant horse is truly the one in the lead, and all others follow.

If you watch ten different people with their horses, you will see ten different styles of leading. Some people lead with their horse’s head in front of them; some lead walking next to their horse’s poll; some lead with the rope looped around their horse’s neck; some lead with the horse far behind them. For the purpose of gaining respect, you will learn to lead with your horse behind your right shoulder; if your horse is behind you you will be able to cross in front of him without pushing him out of the way, and he will have space to come to a stop without running over you.

To start, back your horse out of your space and make sure his attention is on you. Hold the lead rope loosely across your right palm with about three feet of lead between you and your horse (hold the remainder in your left hand, loosely coiled). The reason you keep your palm open and some rope between you and your horse is to show him that you trust his ability to follow you, and to not keep him so tightly trussed to you that he cannot move. Remember that as a flight animal, a horse’s instinct will make him pull away if he feels trapped, and holding him right under his chin or too close to his halter could produce that feeling. Turn your back to your horse, with your shoulders squared. Look in the direction you are going, and in one smooth movement, step forward with the right foot, click with your tongue, and move your right hand forward slightly. To stop, plant both feet and either say, “woah” or blow out through your mouth, hard. You can add a slight squat to this if you like (similar to the motion of trying to stop your horse in the saddle by sitting lower). Walk in circles, making sure to keep your head up and eyes facing where you want to go (your horse is reading your body language from behind), with your horse behind your right shoulder.

Troubleshooting

If your horse is not used to following, or is high strung, or does not quite get the idea of staying out of your space, he will run up on your shoulder or try to surge ahead of you. Do not let him do this; be consistent. Stop and back him up, then start again, or lead him in a circle, either in front of him or just to the left away from him. Do not let him lead you, and do not let him place you beside his shoulder. When he does this, he has told you that you are his inferior, and he’ll do the leading around here, thank you very much. Back him off and keep him out of your space. Travel short distances at first, and always reward the try.

Next Steps

Long, rambling walks, respectful bonding time: these are your next steps. Practice leading your horse safely wherever you go, and be consistent with his position.

A Respectful Horse, A Happy Horse, A Beautiful Relationship

These are the most basic exercises you can start working on immediately to build a strong relationship with your horse that is based on respect and trust. You will always come back to the basic principles behind them, just as the boss in the pasture reasserts her status from time to time. Combined with bonding over grooming (find his itchy spots!), observing your horse in the pasture and relaxing hand grazing, these simple exercises will strengthen your relationship on the ground, laying the foundation for a long and lasting bond with your horse.

Author: Suzannah Kolbeck
Article Source: EzineArticles.com