Archive for the ‘Horse Care’ Category

A diagnosis of equine colic is a situation that worrries any horse owner. So what is equine colic? What indicators should you be aware of?

Colic in horses refers to pain originating in the abdomen. Normally horses will not handle pain of the abdomen very well. So if there is any abnormality in gut functioning they will usually show signs of discomfort.

Signs of irritation could be stretching, a stance as if to urinate, and hoofing the floor. If the pain is greater the horse will get up and down, and roll to try to become more comfortable.

It will likely start to sweat. In more severe cases it will stand up and lie down and continuously roll.

What Should You Do?
If you believe your horse has colic, it’s best to call an equine vet immediately. They will be in a position to supply emergency pain relief and make a decision whether additional treatment is necessary.

What should you do while waiting for the vet to arrive? Taking your horse for a walk sometimes helps. It may encourage his guts to work ina normal manner and surpress any discomfort. It could also further prevent him lying down and rolling. However if he is currently lying down quietly then you should let him stay lying down.

It was thought that a horse could twist its gut by rolling. That has been proven to be probably not true. But it is preferred to stop him rolling over if possible. This way you can stop your horse causing injury himself by knocking himself on the stable walls. But be careful that you don’t get injured yourself. It’s likely horses will forget all their normal manners if in pain.

There are many different reasons as to why horses get colic. But often the signs look the same regardless of the cause.

How does the vet investigate the problem? He or she will have a listen to the abdomen with a stethoscope to show them if there is more or less activity in the gut than normal.

Monitoring the heart rate gives a good indication of the severity of the discomfort and the seriousness of the issue. A horse with a normal heart beat does not have a sever case. Whereas fast heart rates are not such a promising sign.

A really helpful part of the examination will be the examination of the rectum. By physically feeling the intestines, vets could be able to find the cause of the issue. It goes without saying that this is a very complicated procedure, that is potentially hazardous for both the horse and vet. However for an experienced equine vet the feedback it gives is invaluable in concluding the nature of the issue. Helping to discover a blockage, or a swollen area of gut as a result of a twist or another problem with the intestines.

In all but the simple cases vets may inset a tube through the horses’ nose into the stomach. It sounds uncomfortable but often may make your horse comfortable by releasing the pressure from the stomach. Doing this can also give the vet useful feedback about whether the stomach is functioning correctly.

On occasion a horse is in so much pain that it isn’t possible for the vet to diagnose properly without first applying a dose of sedative.

Only by considering all of the information provided by a careful examination is the vet able to make an initial diagnosis. Though it might not be possible to tell exactly what the problem is.

Occasionally, after the initial inspection, the horse needs surgery. But more usually the vet will decide to treat the horse with a fast-acting painkiller and monitor his condition after a few hours. Most examples display a quick improvement. However others will show no response to the treatment, or they will respond at first, then start displaying signs of pain again later.

In preference to having to call the vet out multiple times, it is normally better to move these cases to a specialist equine practice where they can be closely monitored and surgery can be performed if necessary.

Conclusion
Luckily the vast majority of examples respond to medical intervention. However if surgery is necessary – it is important to operate early. The likelyhood of a successful outcome is much better if the surgery is carried out before too much damage has occurred.

For more information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

The Friesian horse as a breed comes from the Netherlands, in a province called Friesland, and are thought to derive from the primitive Forest horses. Known for there grace and agility despite being the size of small shire horse. It has been said that they were prolific war horses used throughout Europe from the Middle Ages onwards, as their strength and agility could carry an armour-clad knight whilst still remaining agile. Of recent, Friesian horses are being used as harness horses, and often appear in the Dressage circle.

 

Characteristics of the Friesian Horse
Charcteristically, true Friesian horses are black, though that isn’t the only distinguishing feature. They can be recognised by their long, thick-haired, almost waved mane with a similarly long and thick tail, and also distinctive long hair on their lower legs (also know as feathers).

 

Height wise, geldings and mares must to be over 15.2hh to be classed a pedigree, whilst Stallions come in at 17hh at the withers.

 

Many people have heard of the term ‘Baroque’ when it comes to the Friesian horses, this is in reference to the more classical, robust Friesian build. Friesians have Spanish looking heads with short ears, they have a long arched neckline and carry great definition. Body wise they are a well-built looking breed, with muscular bodies and relatively stunted legs with a low tail.

 

Friesian horses are loved not only for their agility, stamina and high-stepping trot, but also for being a docile, loving horse.

 

Friesian Horse Uses Nowadays
Increasingly nowadays, Friesians are being crossbred to produce Friesian Sporthorses, which are lighter in weight, though there is still a great demand for purebred Friesians.

 

Friesians are still a popular choice for any harness or carriage work, utilising their high-stepping trot, agility, pace and strength, though you’re just as likely to see a Friesian Horse in the Dresage circle due to their attitude, trainability and distinctive look. It is this temperament which also leads to many to becoming a sound choice for novide (bomb-proof) horses.

 

So if you’re looking for a dependable, characteristic looking horse for everything from pleasure riding, to harness or carriage activities to dressage competitions, Friesians are a popular decision.

When looking for horses for sale, there are a few points which are worth thinking about in order to make the buying process easier, and to make sure you end up with your perfect horse.

• No horse is perfect – just make sure that the one you buy has faults that you can put up with and that won’t reduce your enjoyment.
• Take an expert with you, someone who is aware of your capabilities and strengths. Ideally take someone who is able to spot {whether the horse is lame} lameness or illness. Or even your instructor who will be able to tell if the chosen horse is suitable for your style of riding – your aptitude and confidence.
• Always check the horse’s papers and passport.  A horse passport is not proof that the horse is owned by the person selling it so ask if there is a receipt as proof of purchase. It is unlwful to sell or purchase horses without a passport.
• Ask if all vaccinations are up to date. A new course of vaccinations can cost a lot of money and take many months to come into effect if you wish to compete.  You will not be popular if you move a horse to a new horse if it brings illness along as well.
• Once a decision is made, engage a qualified vet to perform out the highest check that you can buy. Do not let your heart rule your head or be pressured into purchasing if you feel you need the horse checked out by your vet.
• Where possible see the horse or pony performing the tasks you would like it to do. Retraining a horse will add considerably to the total cost if you aren’t in a position to do this yourself.
• If possible negotiate a trial period in which the horse can be returned if it is not suitable.
• Make sure you are realistic when buying a youngster, ask yourself if you have the necessary experience to bring it on. Looking at it differently, a more mature horse may just have the stability and experience to give you confidence and help you learn you the basics.
• Don’t feel you have to buy the first one you view and don’t be pressurised by the many other people that are waiting to buy the horse if you don’t – very often this is just a ploy to push you to make an impulse buy. Take your time when buying a horse.
• As soon as the sale is completed make sure you insure the horse before you consider transporting it.  The majority of injuries occur during transit or whilst introducing a horse into a new yard with new companions.
• Trust your judgement – if you think the vendor is concealing something from you then they most probably are. 
• Be mindful that your horse is a huge investment of both time and money – be sure you have considered a budget for all the expenses that you will encounter. 

Finally, enjoy your new horse and enjoy many hours horse riding together!

The Morgan horse is a truly competent breed of horse, which performs well in many disciplines across the equestrian world. The Morgan horse is know to be one of the original breeds of horse developed in the USA, and its origins can be traced back to the very first stallion named Figure (a horse who later went on to be called Justin Morgan after its owner).

Figure – Justin Morgan
Figure, the sire from which all Morgans can be traced back to, was born in 1789, in Massachusetts. He is believed to have stood just short of horse height, roughly 14hh, and was well known for his ability to pass on hereditary qualities such as his conformation, appearance and agility, making him a superb choice to start the breed. He lived to the age of 32, and during his life was renamed ‘Justin Morgan’ which is why the breed is frequently called ‘The Justin Morgan Horse’.

Characteristics of a Morgan Horse
All Morgan horses come from a single breed standard, regardless of bloodline etc. They are known for a refined build, with strong legs, a stocky yet compact body, a neckline which is noticeably arched and set back shoulders. They are very expressive in their looks and mannerisms, which is exaggerated by them having large eyes.

Morgan horse height varies, but usually ranges from roughly 14.1hh up to 15.2hh though there are some examples which stray either side of these limits. Though they are technically regarded as being horses, if a Morgan horse is under 14.2hh it can be classed, and entered as a Pony in competitions and shows.

Morgan horses are bred in a variety of different colourings, though they are usually to be found in black, chestnut and bay.

About Morgans Today
The Morgan horse is a noticeably versatile breed and they often compete in various disciplines across the equestrian world, including eventing, show jumping and dressage. They are so popular, they also have there own show circuit, as well as a National Morgan Horse competition.

Surviving the credit crunch is difficult enough, but when you have horses and ponies which rely on you for nurishment, shelter and medicine, every small amount saved helps.

It’s a well known fact that dozens of horses and ponies are abandoned every week, as owners struggle to cope with the economy as it is, because of this there are currently many horses for sale.

Sara Tuppen from the Horse Refuge in Wittersham Kent, knows all about looking after horses on a tight budget, having to rely purely on donations to keep more than 40 rescued horses in good condition. She believes there are a few points which could help make keeping a horses during a recession a little easier:

1. Many horses can live quite happily outside for most of the year, providing there’s nurishment, water and shelter available. If this is a suitable option for your horse, it could reduce your stabling prices considerably.

2. Removing shoes can be an easy way to keep costs down. If not ridden regularly, and not ridden on rough surfaces, a great deal of horses will not need shoes.

3. Sharing your horse is a fantastic way to cut (even halve!) costs, and provides a cheaper introduction to horse riding for another person.

4. In many cases it is possible to get free stabling and perhaps even hay and straw in return for chores. Mucking out, grooming the horses, yard and paddock maintenance etc. are all ways which could save you money for a little hard work!

5. Visits to the vets are an unknown quantity but still have to be considered. If money’s a little tight, you may sometimes discover a lot of Vets will allow you to spread the cost.

6. Most of us can make lifestyle changes! It’s not all about finding ways to keep your horse for less, see if you can do it for yourself!

7. Wherever possible, horse owners can often club together to buy feed and bedding in bulk, reducing the overall price and helping everyone save a little.

8. Finally, you can look into placing your horse in a foster home, even as a family friend.

If you’re fortunate enough to be in a position to share, or even purchase a horse or pony, there are still many horses for sale and ponies for sale available.

Spending quality time with your horse is important in allowing a natural bond to develop, as well as allowing you to learn your horses responses and reactions to different situations. In time you will learn your horse’s body language. A horse that is calm and responsive is generally happy. They will keep their head lowered, and have soft eyes and a relaxed jaw. By not invading your personal space your horse is showing affection by seeking your love and respect; this is a sign of a happy horse. A horse is not showing he is bored by yawning – rather this is a sign of relaxation and calm. You can tell by the way a horse holds himself if there is something wrong; a troubled horse will be reluctant to stand still and will hold his head high with a tense jaw and darting eyes. Allow the horse time to settle himself slowly in order to avoid the onset of “flight” mode and further stress.

Grooming your horse gives you the opportunity to check him over regularly. Pay close attention to your horse’s eyes, teeth, shoes and hooves and inspect his droppings regularly. Any change in the normal should be reported to your vet at the earliest opportunity – any delay could cause you extra worry, expense and a potential claim on your horse insurance. Ensure you have made appointments with your equine vet for the administration of vaccinations and worming treatments. There are many different types of worms and parasites and you should rotate medications to get the best benefits and to stop them building up immunity. Colic, heart and immunity problems can all be caused by lack of suitable medication. Vaccinations for encephalitis, rhinoneumonitis and influenza are essential for a healthy horse. Tetanus and rabies are also advisable, but not essential. A negative Coggins test for equine infectious anaemia (EIA) may need to be shown if you regularly use hired trailers for horse events – this is a serious incurable equine virus.

Having regular farrier visits is also essential for a happy and comfortable horse. When your horse’s feet are allowed to get long and unbalanced, it is inevitably uncomfortable and will in time affect the horse’s mood and performance. Your farrier will need to trim your horse’s hooves every six weeks or so.

During wet and cold weather you should provide a blanket or coat for your horse, and in the summer he will need a fly-protective sheet. You may wish to use a horse cooler rug after exercise to help your horse calm and cool down. Drinking water directly after exercise could put a horse’s body into shock. Normal body temperature needs to be regained after exercise and before feeding your horse. Leave it for an hour after meals before exercising your horse.

Horses need to have a purpose, whether it is riding, showing, therapy, carriages or dray. They love to feel useful. It is important for a horse’s sense of purpose and focus that he receives regular praise – especially when young – for performing simple tasks such as simply standing still or in the right place. Introducing new experiences to your horse will help his confidence and satisfy his inherent curiosity.

A horse will be at its happiest when given the very best in love and care that it is possible to give. Before even purchasing a horse you need to be aware of the responsibility you have as a horse owner to provide the best in health care and welfare. Keeping a horse can be a very expensive business, and without good horse insurance provided by a specialist equine insurer, it is possible to quickly run into financial problems if your horse should become sick or sustain an injury. The rewards to you for providing the very best for your horse are priceless, as they will give love back to you a thousand times over.

Almost all horse injuries and illnesses (excluding sports injuries and mistreatment) are due to a small number of mistakes in the way horses are kept and treated. Here are the top 10 tips to avoiding these errors and protecting your horse’s health (in rough order of importance, beginning with the most important).

1. Start with a healthy horse

The most important rule is to start out with a healthy horse, rather than buying a sick horse. There are lots of horses which you can get cheap (or even free) because of their health issues but it is a bad investment since you will likely spend more on vet bills than you save on the purchase price. With horses for sale, beware of sellers passing off a sick horse as a healthy one. Before buying a horse, put it through a horse health checklist. 

2. Food (type and quality)

Give your horse as natural a diet as possible. Feed grass when possible, with hay the next best alternative. Although old, weak or ill horses may need grain for some extra energy, for young and healthy horses the best choice is grass.

As well as feeding the correct type of food, ensure that it is of good quality. Never feed hay or other food which is moldy or has fungus. If feed gets wet, use it immediately (within a day) or throw it away. Bad feed can be a cause of serious illnesses such as colic or laminitis.

It is advisable that the horse has a mineral stone and salt lick, to compensate for any elements which may be missing from its food.

3. Natural environment (pasture & herd)

Just as a horse should have natural food, it should spend as much time as possible in a natural environment. The two most important parts of this is that it should be on pasture as much as possible and that it should be part of a herd (i.e. with other horses or horse equivalents). Time on pasture gives the horse a natural diet (grass), a natural feeding regime (many small feeds throughout the day rather than a couple large and short feeds), exercise and mental stimulation. Being with other horses gives a sense of safety (horses have a very strong herd instinct) and the social interactions gives it mental stimulation.  

Horses which spend most of their time in this natural environment will be happier and more relaxed, with a corresponding decrease in the development of bad habits (such as head weaving or cribbing), which are generally associated with stress and boredom

4. Healthy stall

Especially if a horse spends a lot of time in its stall, the stall environment should be healthy.

• It should have enough ventilation that there is not a build up of ammonia (the harsh burning smell which is produced when bacteria break down horse urine on the stall floor).
• It should be big enough that the horse has a bit of room to move, say 4 yards by 4.
• It should have clean and suitable bedding. In particular, bedding which has gone off (mold or fungus) should never be used.

5. Safe pasture

The pasture should be free of any items which could injure the horse.

The most common cause of serious injuries to horses while on pasture is inappropriate fencing wire. Barbed wire should never be used and it can puncture the horse, causing not only injuries (which can be fatal if a main artery is hit) but also abscesses and other serious infections. High-tension wire should not be used either, since it can cut through flesh and tendons, especially if it breaks and becomes entangled around a leg. If fencing wire is used, it should be a wire which will break before causing serious injury and it should be under current to discourage horses from pushing against it.

If one is using a field which has not been previously cleaned, every bit of it should be closely examined for items which could injure a horse and such items removed. I’ve seen enough horses seriously injured from being put on an old farming field which had bits of fencing wire or pieces of machinery lying about. Likewise, holes (e.g. from burrowing animals) can result in a broken leg so should be filled in promptly. Similarly, broken branches or other objects lying around can result in injuries (especially if the horses are spooked at night, when they may not see the objects and consequently run into them).

There are a number of poisonous plants, which can make a horse ill or even kill it. Learn what types of plants are on your horse’s pasture and check if any of them are poisonous to horses. Most horses will avoid the majority of poisonous plants (unless there is nothing else to eat) so if you see a type of plant which the horses are not eating, one should in particular check that it is safe.

6. Preventative medicine

Prevention is much better (and less expensive) than cure. Horses should be wormed periodically, to a schedule. They should receive the required inoculations and they should have a yearly dental check. As intestinal parasites vary from region to region, the type and frequency of worming will also vary accordingly. Likewise, a horse which is always on the same pasture with the same horses may not need the same level of inoculations as a horse which travels a lot, including competitions. In areas with high levels of Lyme disease, anti-tick medication may be advisable. Consequently, one needs to discuss with a local veterinarian the local requirements, taking into account how the horse is used, to determine the most appropriate actions.

7. Watch and regularly inspect the horse

Horses, like people, will naturally become ill occasionally and may suffer accidents from time to time. In most cases, one starts with a minor problem which is easily (and inexpensively) treated if spotted early, but may become a major issue if left untreated.

One should watch a horse each day, and preferably twice a day, even if it is just for a few minutes. Learn what is normal behavior for that particular horse (e.g. running about or quietly grazing) and if there is a change to its normal behavior one needs to inspect the horse more closely. In particular, any signs of the horse appearing unwell (e.g. head hanging, inactive, stopped eating) or unhappy should be checked and monitored until the cause is found and corrected, with veterinary assistance if the situation becomes worse or is already serious.

Certain illness (e.g. impaction colic, laminitis) can often be treated successfully if done so promptly, whereas waiting less than a day after the first visible symptoms can result in a maimed or dead horse. Regular observation and prompt treatment are the key to so many illnesses.

One should clean and examine the sole of the hooves each day. In part this is to remove stones, ice chunks or other items which can damage a hoof. However, an equally important part of this daily routine is that it enables one to spot hoof issues early. Likewise, regular grooming is important not only because a clean horse looks better but also because it provides an opportunity to closely examine all parts of the horse for injuries or other abnormalities.

8. Shelter

Horses should have shelter from excessive cold, rain or wind. A simple shelter, open on one side facing away from the prevailing wind, can greatly increases the horse’s comfort. Alternatively, when the weather is very bad, it may be necessary to remove the horses from pasture and paddock and put them into their stalls.

The amount of shelter a horse requires depends on the local environment (how extreme the temperature gets locally) but also on the horse. A strong and healthy horse, which is neither very old or very young, will be much more resistant to weather extremes. Likewise, certain breeds (especially if they have a long coat, which has not been trimmed or had the coat oils removed by frequent washing) are more resistant than others. One needs to provide a level of shelter which is appropriate to the individual horse and the current weather. One should also consider a horse rug for horses which are very old, very young, sick, weak or prone to illness. One may also consider a fly sheet, which not only increases the horses comfort but also reduces the risk of sweet itch, eye infections (if a fly mask is used) and other illnesses which can be transmitted by biting or blood sucking insects.

9. Breed and individual requirements

Each breed has its own special requirements. For examples, many breeds are prone to laminitis and consequently should have only limited access to spring grass. Other breeds may have specific issues and require special treatment (e.g. many Appaloosa are night blind and consequently are more likely to run into fencing if left out at night). Learning about your breed’s strengths and weaknesses from a medical perspective will allow you to respond accordingly.

Likewise, each horse is an individual. Some are more weather resistant than others. Some are more prone to colic or other illnesses. As you watch and live with your horse, learn about its special needs and treat it accordingly. For example, if it is allergic to dust, one may need to soak its hay in water or buy low-dust feed. If it looks unhappy and uncomfortable in cold weather, one should consider taking it under shelter or providing it with a rug, as you may be looking at an early warning for a potential illness (e.g. cold-induced colic or a cold-induced lung infection). Taking account of your horse’s medical history and behavior as part of your horse management program will help keep it healthy and happy.

10. Continue to learn

Nobody knows everything about horses and everyone started out knowing nothing. However, if you educate yourself and continue to learn, you will be able to take better care of your horse, avoiding problems when possible and otherwise treating them promptly and correctly.

Colic is the single most important horse disease. It causes more horse fatalities than any other illness and even when horses fully recover it is the single biggest cause of major veterinary expenses. It can also cause other illnesses such as lminitis or founder.

There are douzens of different types of colic and just as many causes. However, the primary causes have been identified by research which has spaned thousands of colic cases. Following is a list of what one should do to avoid these primary causes and thereby minimise the risk of horse colic, as well as being generally good horse health practices.

1) Feed Frequently. Horses have evolved as foragers, eating throughout the day. The more often your horse eats, the healthier its digestive system will be. Try to replace a few large meals by more but smaller meals.

2) Grass before Grain. The equine digestive system is designed for ‘high volume, low calorie’ food such as grass or hay. Energy-dense foods such as grain or musli have insufficient volume and fiber. Consequently, the diet should have as much grass or hay as possible. If one feeds both hay and grain, one should feed the hay followed by the grain rather than the reverse order, as this results in better digestion and less bolting.

3) Soak Food Pellets. Food pellets (such as pelleted hay) should be soaked. Unsoaked pellets can greatly expand upon entering the stomach, resulting in bloating. Also, both choke and bolting are more likely to occur with unsoaked pellets.

4) Secure the Feedroom. The feedroom should be locked or have a horse-proof latch to prevent horses from getting in and gorging themselves. Excessive feeding, especially on grain and similar foods, can result in colic. It can also cause laminitis or founder.

5) Bolting. If your horse bolts (swallows before chewing) its food, discuss options with your veterinarian. You may need to change its feed or feeding regime (e.g. soak pellets, feed hay before grain, feed more often) to correct this habit. Also check if there are dental issues which require corrective work.

6) Dietary Dirt and Sand. Horses that eat dirt or sand in large amounts can develop impaction colic. Avoid putting your horses on over-grazed pastures as they are likely to eat earth when they pull up the remaining grass with attached roots. Do not feed them on a sandy or dirt surface.

7) Sufficient Water. A horse needs to drink adequate water througout the day. During winter their water should be warmed as horses often don’t drink sufficient water if it is too cold. After exercise, let them drink but limit the quantity until they have cooled down.

De-worming. Horses should be de-wormed regularly (every 3-4 months). All the horses which share a pasture should be de-wormed at the same time to prevent cross-infection. If a horse has not been de-wormed for a long time, use a laxative a few days before to clear out the worst of the worm population before administrating a de-wormer medication.

9) Regular Exercise. Horses with insufficient exercise are more prone to colic. When starting an exercise regime, start gradually as rapid changes in the amount of exercise can result in colic.

10) Bedding. If your horse eats its bedding, especially in large quantities, consider changing to a bedding type which it does not eat.

11) Temperature. A horse that becomes chilled is likely to develop colic. This is particularly true if there is a sudden drop in temperature. If a horse is likely to be chilled (e.g. old, weak, sick, shaved, short coat, unaccustomed to cold) then they need to be protected during extreme weather. The use of a rug should be considered. During extremely cold weather, especially if wet and windy, it may be adviseable to confine weaker horses to their stables.