The healthy horse will stand squarely on all four feet. A healthy horse will never rest a forefoot unless the foot or leg is unsound. They will rest their hind feet when they are relaxed or bored. The healthy horse will also have a shiny coat that is soft and lies down flat and smooth. The horses eyes are wide open and the inside of the eye is salmon colored. This color will also be seen in the horses gum and nostrils. The limbs and joints of the horse should be free of heat or swelling. You can check for heat by rubbing your hands down both legs and comparing them to each other.

The healthy horse will also have a normal appetite and will be willing to eat. His skin will be moist, but not sweaty. His breathing will be quiet and even when he is at rest. His pulse should also be steady and even. You can feel the pulse by placing the tips of your fingers over the large artery under the lower jaw and immediately in front of the heavy muscle of the cheek. In mares and geldings, the pulse is usually around thirty-three to forty beats per minute. In stallions, it is usually around twenty-eight to thirty-two beats per minute. Younger horses will have faster pulses.

The healthy horse will also have four to eight bowel movements in a twenty-four hour period. You will also be able to hear gut sounds if you place your ear to the flank of the horse. The bowel movements should be odor free and not have any mucus or worms present. The urine of the horse will be light yellow and he will eliminate five or more times per day.

The sick horse will have an abnormal attitude. He may lie down at odd times and in odd positions. If a horse has advanced laminitis, he may even sit like a dog because it hurts to put pressure on his feet. A horse suffering from colic may lie on his back. The sick horse may also have a dull coat and the hairs will not lie down.

The mucous membranes may be off color. There are several colors that suggest different conditions. Pale membranes usually mean that the horse is anemic, a yellow tinge suggests liver problems, a dark red may suggest a fever and a blue-red may suggest a heart or circulation problem.

The horse will also have an abnormal appetite and may not care about feed that you give him. The skin may feel tight and dry or he may be sweating profusely. His temperature will also be high. In horses, a low fever is around 102.5 degrees, a definite fever will be at 104 and 106 is high and suggests that the hose may have an infection. The horse may also have a high pulse and breath either too slow or rapidly. A sick horse may also have a noisy and labored way of breathing.

The horse may have droppings of an abnormal consistency or color. If the horse has serious constipation, the horse may not have any gut sounds. The urine of the horse may also be an unusual color or consistency. They may also have pain while urinating and the amount may be excessive or very little.

There may also be heat in the legs of the horse. Some infections may cause the horses legs to swell and may not always be a sign of lameness.

These are very important signs to watch for. If you board a horse and notice that a horse doesnt look like his usual self, you are better safe than sorry to let someone know. Alert barn managers and owners about the horse and his condition. If the horse is your own, alert your veterinarian if the condition seems serious. If the horse seems a little off, you might ask your barn manager or barn friends to keep a watchful eye on him and alert you if the condition becomes worse. Many times a horse will pick up a bug and will be off for a day or so. If the horse does not get better, you will want to seek medical attention.

Author: Ron Petracek
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Canada duty

Before you venture out to look, think this over well:

“What do I expect to get out of horse ownership?”

In my many years of retraining horses, I have seen too many people buy the wrong horse. These are not animals you should buy because you fall in love with them immediately. Very few people can feel a bond that quickly, and even they make mistakes in their choices. Bonding right away is not the reason one should override other problems the horse may have.

I have only had 2 long-term horses in my life: a big black jumper in my teens and an Arabian stallion. The stallion, Spike, was the greatest horse I have owned to date, but I also know that great horses are made first, and ‘gifted’ to you second. I have trained countless horses with talent and bonding ability, but the previous owners were not able to see this (often through lack of experience, time, training, general ‘horse sense’ ).

Finding the right horse means that you have to answer the above question with honesty and integrity. Another life depends on it.

What Can You Expect From Owning a Horse?

I would not be where I am today without having had them in my life, and I don’t mean the website and the riding experience. Horses supply valuable worldly skills at any age; it’s just gets a little more interesting when you’re older. My patience came from the horse: my gratitude came from the horse: and my compassion came from the horse.

Horses ask us to change the way we think. They need us to speak their language first. The road to learning this new language opens up the creative thinking side of a human, and challenges us to explore deeper within.

Adiva Murphy says it well: “Horses are intensely emotional, intuitive, intelligent beings. They are a true reflection of our deepest soul. Over time I have discovered their extraordinary ability to awaken intuition in humans, and their ability to mirror the authentic feelings people try to hide. This makes horses powerful therapeutic teachers.”

All Parents Should Read This

When I was young, I was trouble looking for a place to happen. I did not fit in at school, as I was too tall, too skinny and too geeky. I would never have made it through school without my horse.

For young people, growing up means learning to find your place in the world, or society. When parents tell me that horses are too expensive, and you see the look on the child’s face, I always ask them “How much does it cost to rehabilitate a kid on drugs, or raise a teen’s baby?” I’m not saying that kids without horses will go that path, but there are more than the obvious things that make horse ownership for youngsters a valuable tool for life.

By the end of grade 10, I was pinning in almost everything I went in, and jumping heights that scared me silly in grade 1. My courage to go places and advance was unstoppable, and I absorbed every detail I could about the horse.

In elementary school, I use to run home as fast as I could, to avoid the rocks the kids threw at me every day after school. I was never invited to play sports, even though I could have whipped just about everyone there. I always sat at the front of the class, as close to the teacher as possible. When I hear of bullying now, the things I endured as a little kid would have locked up many guilty youth today.

But as my horse knowledge grew, and I became stronger from having this highly positive experience in my life, I began to fight back. In grade 10, I found myself surrounded by ‘unpleasant’ girls in the bathroom. I was able to negotiate my way out of it (learning other language skills – the horse) and after taking off my jacket to reveal some rather strong arms, they left me alone, revering me the rest of the school year. It was better than the abuse.

Being a bit of an outcast at school also didn’t matter much as I went through Jr. and Sr. High. My attitude was “Go ahead, bug me all you want, but you can’t ride a horse as well as me.”

At the barn, I was surrounded with kids my age and all sorts of interesting horsey people. I fit in there, and was well respected. I met lots of new friends at the shows, and my memories of youth now are filled with happy tales of great adventure: sleeping in our horse’s stalls overnight at the shows; riding bareback through miles of endless trails; riding my first Rothman’s Grand Prix at the Northwest International and not having any recollection of the entire thing at the end from being so scared (but brave enough to do it).

How Horses Teach Us

Not all kids are like I was. But the point is, the horse taught me that I could excel in something (I was good in school, but back then that was ‘geeky’, so I never tried), gave me hope, showed me another way to communicate, and challenged the anger that could have grown out of proportion inside. My confidence soared, I took on any challenge and learned to nurture and respect all life. The things horses teach us.

Horses often take the place of a best friend, and that was my experience growing up. I cried with my horse, I laughed with my horse, and not once did he ever call me stupid (perhaps in a subtle way, when you ask them to do something and they tell you to ask another way).

Horses are incapable of learning our language. They are herd animals, and ‘precocial’, meaning they are born with the immediate response of being mobile and bonding to the mare. Precocial exists in prey animals, where as predators are born ‘altricial’, where the young are born helpless and bond with the parent(s) later. Horses have very limited verbal dialogue and use body language as their main way of communicating.

This forces humans to change their thinking patterns and physical behaviors around horses (if the human wants to get anywhere with the horse). As humans, we now are asked to bring down our walls and ego, and speak a dialogue that’s transparent and honest.

Find that course in grade school?

What Parents Should Look For

The trick for parents is to be able to judge whether or not horses are a passing fad for the year, or a way of life that the youngster will take with them. Not all young people stick with horses their whole life. In my world about 1 in 10 did. As parents, what you need to feel out is whether you are going to get into this, and have the child find interest in something else ten months down the road, after you have purchased the horse, equipment, lessons, trailer, truck (you get the message). But the child needs to ride in lessons first, for you to be able to judge this.

The best way to proceed is to get lessons at a reputable barn. How do you know a barn is reputable? Find two or three top trainers in the area and ask them. Top trainers and coaches know what and who to avoid. Spend time around a place and get a feel for the instructors. Are they in it for the kids or the paycheck, and with horse people this will stand out plain as day. Teaching youth is a gift and you either want to do it or you have to. The difference between the two is easy to distinguish. Also, do the horses look well fed and happy? Are they turned out daily? Is the facility managed by responsible people who show up? What are the qualifications of the instructors (they should at least have insurance)?

What if you don’t have any lesson barns close by? Many kids get their start by cleaning stalls and working in facilities. These kids are lucky, for they earn the right to be with horses, and usually stick with it long after all the ‘stuff’ is bought. The drawback is that many of them learn by trial and error, and that means broken bones and the odd concussion, and the price the horse will pay in the process. Just go into a horse forum and start reading. You have to feel for some of those horses.

There is nothing that takes the place of lessons and good training from the start. It’s not a sport like hockey where you learn to skate and balance. This sport has a partner: a living, breathing entity whose survival depends solely on the owner/rider. I cannot stress this enough: there are far too many unwanted and abused horses. If you don’t have the ability to keep an animal, do not get into this in the first place. If you have no intention of learning from the start, take up something else. Horses have no place in the ego of mankind, and do not exist solely for our pleasure.

I suggest that your child take lessons on at least 3 horses before you even think of buying one. This allows the child to get a feel of what different horses are like, so that they are better able to judge the right horse for their own when they finally buy one. They should have had enough lessons to become comfortable with each horse, and enough time in to gain confidence.

Your child’s age is another factor. I rode my own pony Dusty at the age of 4, but looking back on it one could have called it child abuse. I was bitten and bucked off daily. I either landed too many times on my head, or this way of life was for me and nothing was getting in the way. I believe a child will know when they want to learn. Size and age does not matter (no younger than 4 please) but it’s even more important that you find the right horse or pony for a younger enthusiast. Dusty may not have been the best example, but was small enough to not scare me during the rough moments (about every two minutes).

Long Term Considerations

Another thing a parent has to consider are restrictions: does the child or YOU have the time to put into this: are you as a parent able to help out: can you afford it: can you go the distance when the child wants to progress with this animal in the future (shows, clinics, lessons)? Horses are time consuming and not for those who like to get out on Sunday. They can really eat up time when they are sick or injured. Your weekends are given over to the horse. Life can change also, leaving Fluffys life with you in the balance.

The commitment to horses is enormous, and buying the animal is often the easy part. Most kids grow out of Fluffy in a few years, and you either end up owning 2 horses or Fluffy gets sold. It’s not always easy to sell horses, taking weeks or months to find the right home. But it’s all part of the experience, and as a child, I learned to absorb the pain of my favorite horses passing on, and being sold.

This is yet another way that horses teach us. Being sheltered from the natural movement of life just means you will have to go through the lesson later. What you resist, persists. I am so grateful I had the chance to understand these things early. I had more time to move through the process.

If all that information helps you, and you’ve now gone through this ‘discovery’ period, it’s time to find the right horse.

The Mature Rider’s Guide to Horse Ownership

Most mature riders have ridden in the past at some point. I commend anyone who takes on this challenge without prior experience. You have my full respect.

As I said above, horses come with a level of responsibility you won’t find in any other sport or pet ownership, so if you glanced through the youth/parent section, go back and read it thoroughly. As adults, we need to evaluate the same things that parents are asked to: time, ability, finances, available stables and long term ownership.

As adults, we have different reasons to own horses than children do. Perhaps it was a dream from youth, or the desire to return to a more natural way of living (farms/land ownership). Horses can add to our years with an enjoyment you won’t understand until you live the experience. There is no money in the world that can buy the enjoyment a good horse can give.

We don’t often buy show horses as adults. We often spend our lives in business, competing for jobs and salaries, fighting our way up the ladder, and the last thing we want from our experience with horses is more of the same. The pleasure horse is more the choice of later years. Unlike children, we usually don’t have to work at a barn or take lessons before we know we want to do this. Adults have pondered the idea for years. Many of us have the income and means to pursue the dream. From here on it’s full steam ahead to find one.

Looking for a horse now requires a bit more time. Quality horses with the level of training to be safe can also cost a bit more, but here’s where the show horse comes in. Older show horses often have good training on them, and have been exposed to many distractions and spooky threats. Often, people move on to newer younger animals, and the old show horse gets the back pasture, or worse, left in isolation. While they may cost a bit more they can become loyal companions and reliable trail buddies.

Always try out a horse you’re interested in at least three or more times. Show up at the horse’s barn unexpectedly and see how the animal lives when you’re not there. Ride the horse in an enclosed area (arena, ring) and out on a trail or roadway. If the owner balks at this, it’s likely the horse is incapable of being safe in these places. Watch others ride the horse. We will cover more of this in future articles in this series.

What’s Next in Horse Purchasing?

As a parent, by now you will have come to a decision about how your child is going to learn. Maybe you have gone through the lesson circuits and the child is ready for ownership.

As an adult, you are hot on the trail of horse hunting, and have found a potential horse or so. Next comes the decision: which horse is going to be an enjoyable experience and lifelong partner?

In the next chapter, we will look at the difference between ponies and horses: pros and cons. Which is right for your child.

Author: April Reeves
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Latest trends in mobile phone

To float a horse’s teeth certainly sounds funny, too.

Floating means to smooth or contour your horse’s teeth with a file (called a “float”). Unlike your own teeth, your horse’s teeth keep growing. At times, your horse’s teeth may develop sharp edges, making it difficult for her to chew food, hold a bit, or simply have pain and discomfort inside her mouth.

An adult horse may have between 36-44 permanent teeth. And just like humans, your horse gets two sets of teeth in her lifetime. Your horse starts out with temporary baby teeth and by age five, will most likely have her full set of permanent teeth.

The horse’s front teeth cut hay and grass, while the top and bottom cheek teeth grind the forage between the flat surfaces in a sideways motion. This grinding action breaks down the food into a pulp before swallowing which helps it to be digested better. If your horse is unable to grind down food all the way due to uneven teeth surfaces, the unchewed food will not be digested as well.

Most often, points develop on the upper cheek teeth toward the outside of the mouth next to your horse’s cheek. And on the bottom cheek teeth toward the inside of the mouth next to your horse’s tongue. These points can then cut into the cheek and tongue making your horse uncomfortable.

Though it may seem tedious and like a burden, you know having routine dentist check-ups contribute to the overall good health of your own teeth. Well, your horse is no different and deserves some of the same attention to her teeth as you give to yours. Confined horses or those that do not have the ability to graze all day are more prone to teeth overgrowth, as they are not naturally grinding their teeth all day to keep them smooth. Also, just like you, your horse can have other dental problems. A horse can have excessively worn teeth, loose or broken teeth, or infected gums.

One sign that your horse’s teeth may need to be floated is if she is consistently dropping food from her mouth and you start seeing signs of weight loss. Your horse may also exhibit behavior like head-tossing or opening her mouth frequently.

Possible horse dental problem indicators:

• Drops food from her mouth
• Exhibits difficulty in chewing
• Excessive salivation
• Loss of weight
• Undigested food particles in manure
• Head-tossing
• Excessive bit chewing
• Resisting having the bridle put on
• Difficult handling while riding
• Mouth odor
• Blood in the mouth
• Face swelling
• Nasal discharge

Because horses are adaptable creatures, even if they are having discomfort, some do not show any signs of dental problems. So don’t assume that if there are no symptoms, there are no problems.

Sharp teeth edges can hurt the inside of your horse’s mouth causing pain and creating sores on her tongue or cheeks. Your horse may show resistance when riding due to added pain from the bit pressing against the sores.

The vet or equine dentist will carefully file all your horse’s teeth that need smoothing to achieve a flat grinding surface between the upper and lower teeth. Having your horse’s teeth floated is well worth it so she digests her food better, is in better spirits, and makes riding more enjoyable for you both.

How often floating is necessary varies quite a bit from one horse to another. Some horses seem to have slower-growing teeth and may require floating only once every several years while others may require floating every few months. Even if your horse does not require her teeth to be floated often, it is still a good idea to have her teeth and gums examined once a year.

The procedure the vet typically uses to float your horse’s teeth is to first sedate your horse to make her relaxed. A special halter is put on with a rope thrown over a ceiling rafter or the equivalent in order to hold your horse’s head up. A mouth speculum is used to keep your horse’s mouth open. The vet will then either manually file your horse’s teeth using a rasp in a back and forth motion to flatten the high points, or may use a power tool. The whole procedure is quick and painless – taking about 15 to 20 minutes to complete.

If you’re like me, you cringe at the thought of someone filing away on your teeth with a rasp. You can imagine the shooting pain from the nerves in your teeth. Personally, the dentist can’t give me enough Novocain to make me feel comfortable before poking around or drilling in my mouth.

Unlike us, a horse’s nerves end close to the gumline, so there is no nerve where the tooth is being worked on, and therefore does not feel any nerve pain. We humans should be so lucky.

Author: Randall Holman
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Digital TV, HDTV, Satellite TV

The cost of boarding a horse can be taxing to any budget, thus making this aspect of horse care essential to work out before you buy your horse. Also, you should be sure to research the breed, as each type of horse will have different needs. Contact your veterinarian to create a dietary plan specifically for your horse. If you own more than one horse, the dietary plan for each of your horses may not be the same. Depending on the age, breed, and size of your horse, this plan may differ. Additionally, horses are notoriously picky and what feed suits one horse may not suit the other.

The old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” definitely applies to owning a horse. By providing your horse with routine preventative care, you will save you, your beloved pet, and your wallet a great deal of pain. Perhaps the most important aspect of your horse’s preventative care should be its vaccinations and deworming. All horses need to be vaccinated for tetanus and rabies. Some owners, depending on their location, choose to vaccinate their horses against Eastern and Western Equine Encephalitis, influenza, and Potomac Horse Fever. These vaccinations need to be updated on an annual basis and you should keep comprehensive vaccination records for each horse you own. As for deworming, it should be known all horses will naturally carry a small infestation of worms. There is no way to completely rid your horse of worms; although you should carefully monitory this infestation carefully to ensure the parasites does not do any damage to your horse’s organs. Contact your veterinarian to determine the deworming schedule, which should take place between three and six times each year.

Colic is a serious problem with horses that can become deadly. Causes of colic can vary from severe worm infection to dietary changes to ingestion of sand. You should always keep a careful eye out for signs of colic, including rolling and kicking at the belly. If your horse displays any signs of colic, immediately contact your veterinarian.

The final area for your horse’s preventative maintenance is hoof and tooth care. Since horse’s teeth continue to grow throughout his life, the teeth will have to be ground properly. Most horses do not have a problem correctly wearing down their teeth, but some horses are not able to do so. For this reason, you should check your horse’s teeth on a yearly basis after the age of four by a veterinarian. If your horse has a problem correctly grinding his teeth, the veterinarian will be able to address the problem. Similarly, your horse’s hooves must be properly maintained in order to prevent debilitating hoof problems. Each time you take your horse out, carefully inspect his hooves upon return to ensure they are free of stones or mud and your horse is not experiencing any soreness or pain. A farrier should be contacted regarding maintaining the health of your horse’s hooves, and should be called in every six to eight weeks to be reshod. Additionally, your horse’s hooves should be trimmed on a regular basis to prevent painful overgrowth.

To find more information about caring for your horse, just log on to the Internet and visit locations such as http://www.ahorsesite.com/dir/careofhorses to do a thorough search.

Copyright 2005 by Lynn Walls. All rights reserved.

Author: Lynn Walls
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
Provided by: Beading Necklace

1. How long is my|your saddle?
2. Is your horse’s back short or long?
3. What is my preference on the look of my tack on my horse?

Size of Saddle:

Measure and find out the size of your saddle in length. Is it a barrel, roping, cutting, etc saddle? If you have a larger saddle such as a roping or cutting saddle then you will probably not want a saddle pad that is 28″ or 30″ in length. Your saddle may just barely fit on the saddle pad. For a barrel saddle don’t use a saddle pad longer than 32″ or 33″.

Does my horse have a long or short back?

A lot of people don’t think of this when choosing a saddle pad. If you have a short backed horse and decide to go with a saddle pad that is 34″ long – it may be too long for your horse. It will probably get in the way of the horses hindquarter movement. However things could be reversed as well. Using a short saddle pad on a long backed horse will allow part of his/her back to be exposed. It may look weird to you or other people. That is where this next section comes into play.

What is my personal preference of how my horse should look when tacked up?

Ultimately the decision comes down to your personal preference. What do you think looks good? Where do you think your saddle pad should end on your horse?

People have different styles and ways that they like their saddle pad, saddle, and horse to look. Some people may use a shorter (28″ or 30″) saddle pad on a short backed horse with a barrel saddle. On the same horse if a roping saddle is used they may get a little longer of a pad (33″) to compensate for the larger saddle. On a long backed horse if a roping saddle is used they may use a long (34″) pad. However if the same long backed horse is used and a barrel saddle they may use a long (32″ or 33″) pad to cover the horses back.

It boils down to your personal opinion, type and size of saddle, and your horse. There really isn’t a “correct” answer to this question. There are only opinions.

Here is a link with a variety of western saddle pads to help you in your decision.

Allowing your horse to nuzzle into your pockets in the search for crunchy treats could land you with a nibble in a rather inconvenient place. A horse’s love nibbles are painful when applied to mere human skin. Horses in a herd treat each other differently than they must treat us. They crowd, nip, and bite each other, but they are far more durable than we humans, of course.

Unfortunately, the space bubble lesson has been learned by many the hard way. My first, and subsequently the last, experience with the concept of crowding occurred when I bought my first horse years ago. My wonderful new four-legged friend liked to “help” me with the paddock cleaning. As I shovelled and filled the manure cart, he would come and put his nose into it. Then one day he actually lifted his front hoof and put it into the cart when I put a rake full of manure in. He knocked the cart over, which spooked him, which in turn spooked the other three horses in the paddock. Suddenly I found myself within the midst of hooves and tails every which way. Thankfully I was not hurt, but this could have been a mild or even a serious disaster – and may have even necessitated a claim on my horse insurance.

This happened when our training relationship was in its learning curve phase. I was so amused at his trying to help me with my chores that I didn’t think about the potential consequences. On that day I learned the importance of manners. from that day on I began to teach him the importance of respecting my space if I happened to be in the paddock doing jobs or attending to the other horses. If he wanted to play cute he could still do this during the time we spent together learning cues and training.

You can use the three Ps of horse training to instil basic safety manners into your horse. The relationship which you have with any horse – be it your own or one you are training for someone else – is largely dependant on the use of patience, persistence and positive reinforcement.

Patience. Remember that your horse doesn’t yet know what is expected of him. You will go a long way in building trust by showing patience with your horse when showing him what to do, and letting him try and try again until he gets it. Enter the training session with a clear and stress free mind. Take a deep breath and relax. It is part of the natural learning process for your horse to test the waters. He needs to check and see if what he thinks you want is correct. This can occur several times before the horse has confirmed his correct assessment of the task.

Persistence. Don’t give up after just a few tries. It is difficult to communicate at first. After all, you don’t speak the same language yet! Stay with it and be consistent in your cues. Horses are very perceptive to even the slightest cue. It will not usually take long for a horse to learn what a cue means – then you will have cooperation.

Positive reinforcement. Give your horse the signal when he’s done something correctly. The best rewards don’t always come in the form of a tasty treat. They love to be released when they’ve done their job. Imagine the “whoa!” or “stop” cue. It’s a pull on the bit within the horse’s mouth. When the horse exhibits the signs that he understands that you want him to stop, release the bit immediately. This lets him know that he is doing the right thing.

Horses need to know their limits. How close can he stand to you before you feel crowded? Can he pull on the lead rope if he doesn’t want to go the way you are leading him? Is he allowed to get away with things that he may not wish to do on a whim? For a horse this is not natural, even though to us it may seem like common sense. A correctly and carefully trained horse will forever be both a most pleasing companion and could also represent a lower liability when it comes to renewing your horse insurance policy.

Strength, beauty and endurance are typical traits of this breed of horse. Studies have show that Arabian horses are amongst the oldest breeds discovered in the world.

The Bedouin people are thought to be the first to train the Arabian horse. Bedouin people took the ancestry of these breeds very seriously and could back date the lineages of the horses they owned. At these times it was crucial to have a dependable horse that was quick, brave and strong. It also had to be capable of surviving in the desert environment. The Bedouin tribes were constantly at war with other tribes in the region, and it was necessary to have a horse which could lead them into battle.

Some of the most impressive horses ever were bred by the Bedouins. Information regarding the horses’ linegeage and ancestry was exchanged during the trade of this breed. There are a number of different variations of Arabian horses, which are known as strains. They are similar in appearance and share ancestry. Dahman, Hadban, Kuhaylan are some examples.

Arabian horses are said to be one of, if not the most recognised breeds in the world. Their heads are shaped like wedges, and they have large eyes and a small muzzle. Some of the most sought after Arabian horses are the ones with concave shaped noses. An Arab neckline should be arched, and they have toned muscular legs. Their coats should have a sheen, often referred to as being silk-like. Consequently, Arabian breeds are not often viewed at top end competitions due to their inadequate bascule in comparison to other breeds.

Typically, their coat is brown or grey although it is not unusual for some Arabian horses to have black coats. Arabian horses with black coats were rare, because in the desert they would absorb heat, and this would be dangerous. Arabian genes are so pure, they are commonly used in enhancing other breeds characteristics. Arabian horses are very well mannered, an attribute breeders find very attractive.

Professional horse competitions have used Arabian horses for a great deal of time, and there are even competitions each year between Arabian horses and there owners.

For more information, Arabian Horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory

Reading this simple guide will hopefully help you in your daily grooming practices.

1. Approaching your horse ensure the symmetry is close, however they don’t have to be exactly equal, but very close to the same size and shape. 

2. Look carefully for defects in the wall and coronary band.  Lift up the hoof, run your hand over the exterior of the wall to feel for impairments.  You can use the exact technique for the coronary band and then press it softly. Applying these two procedures will also highlight tender areas and moisture holding areas.

3. Examine the sole. Examine the colouring in each hoof. If correct they should be identical in colouration.  A well defined dark spot indicates bruising or damage.

4. Examine and compare the frogs.  The front hooves should be the sae size and shape, the same applies to the rear hooves. Try and lightly press each frog using your hoof pick, mostly, excluding the desert areas, they should be slightly spongy.

5. If already shod, hold the horseshoe and see if it wiggles. Look for missing clinches, if the shoe is loose you may choose to remove the shoe before your horse loses it on its own and perhaps removes a chunk of hoof as well.

If you keep a good close eye on each hoof, you can avoid a great deal of problems by noticing the problem before it gets severe.

We recomend you work into your daily hoof cleaning some simple steps. Use a pick from heel to toe.  If packed solid you may need to loosen it up a touch before it can be taken off. Once the material has been taken out, check all the parts of the hoof and be positive that there is not a bad odour as this is usually a obvious sign of thrush.  Be certain there are no pebbles or gravel lodged anywhere, even under the shoe.

Your horses hooves should exhibit a natural sheen on the hoof wall. 

If you see a smooth uniform surface with no cracks, circles, dishes, flares and a concave sole that touches the shoe, then you can be pretty sure that your horses hooves are in good health.

For more horse information, horses for sale and more, please visit the Horse and Pony Directory.

Colic in horses refers to pain originating in the abdomen. Normally horses will not handle pain of the abdomen very well. So if there is any abnormality in gut functioning they will usually show signs of discomfort.

Signs of irritation could be stretching, a stance as if to urinate, and hoofing the floor. If the pain is greater the horse will get up and down, and roll to try to become more comfortable.

It will likely start to sweat. In more severe cases it will stand up and lie down and continuously roll.

What Should You Do?
If you believe your horse has colic, it’s best to call an equine vet immediately. They will be in a position to supply emergency pain relief and make a decision whether additional treatment is necessary.

What should you do while waiting for the vet to arrive? Taking your horse for a walk sometimes helps. It may encourage his guts to work ina normal manner and surpress any discomfort. It could also further prevent him lying down and rolling. However if he is currently lying down quietly then you should let him stay lying down.

It was thought that a horse could twist its gut by rolling. That has been proven to be probably not true. But it is preferred to stop him rolling over if possible. This way you can stop your horse causing injury himself by knocking himself on the stable walls. But be careful that you don’t get injured yourself. It’s likely horses will forget all their normal manners if in pain.

There are many different reasons as to why horses get colic. But often the signs look the same regardless of the cause.

How does the vet investigate the problem? He or she will have a listen to the abdomen with a stethoscope to show them if there is more or less activity in the gut than normal.

Monitoring the heart rate gives a good indication of the severity of the discomfort and the seriousness of the issue. A horse with a normal heart beat does not have a sever case. Whereas fast heart rates are not such a promising sign.

A really helpful part of the examination will be the examination of the rectum. By physically feeling the intestines, vets could be able to find the cause of the issue. It goes without saying that this is a very complicated procedure, that is potentially hazardous for both the horse and vet. However for an experienced equine vet the feedback it gives is invaluable in concluding the nature of the issue. Helping to discover a blockage, or a swollen area of gut as a result of a twist or another problem with the intestines.

In all but the simple cases vets may inset a tube through the horses’ nose into the stomach. It sounds uncomfortable but often may make your horse comfortable by releasing the pressure from the stomach. Doing this can also give the vet useful feedback about whether the stomach is functioning correctly.

On occasion a horse is in so much pain that it isn’t possible for the vet to diagnose properly without first applying a dose of sedative.

Only by considering all of the information provided by a careful examination is the vet able to make an initial diagnosis. Though it might not be possible to tell exactly what the problem is.

Occasionally, after the initial inspection, the horse needs surgery. But more usually the vet will decide to treat the horse with a fast-acting painkiller and monitor his condition after a few hours. Most examples display a quick improvement. However others will show no response to the treatment, or they will respond at first, then start displaying signs of pain again later.

In preference to having to call the vet out multiple times, it is normally better to move these cases to a specialist equine practice where they can be closely monitored and surgery can be performed if necessary.

Conclusion
Luckily the vast majority of examples respond to medical intervention. However if surgery is necessary – it is important to operate early. The likelyhood of a successful outcome is much better if the surgery is carried out before too much damage has occurred.

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Characteristics of the Friesian Horse
Charcteristically, true Friesian horses are black, though that isn’t the only distinguishing feature. They can be recognised by their long, thick-haired, almost waved mane with a similarly long and thick tail, and also distinctive long hair on their lower legs (also know as feathers).

Height wise, geldings and mares must to be over 15.2hh to be classed a pedigree, whilst Stallions come in at 17hh at the withers.

Many people have heard of the term ‘Baroque’ when it comes to the Friesian horses, this is in reference to the more classical, robust Friesian build. Friesians have Spanish looking heads with short ears, they have a long arched neckline and carry great definition. Body wise they are a well-built looking breed, with muscular bodies and relatively stunted legs with a low tail.

Friesian horses are loved not only for their agility, stamina and high-stepping trot, but also for being a docile, loving horse.

Friesian Horse Uses Nowadays
Increasingly nowadays, Friesians are being crossbred to produce Friesian Sporthorses, which are lighter in weight, though there is still a great demand for purebred Friesians.

Friesians are still a popular choice for any harness or carriage work, utilising their high-stepping trot, agility, pace and strength, though you’re just as likely to see a Friesian Horse in the Dresage circle due to their attitude, trainability and distinctive look. It is this temperament which also leads to many to becoming a sound choice for novide (bomb-proof) horses.

So if you’re looking for a dependable, characteristic looking horse for everything from pleasure riding, to harness or carriage activities to dressage competitions, Friesians are a popular decision.