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A lot of care and attention is spent on feeding a horse. For a new horse owner, choosing feeds can be a little overwhelming. Fortunately, years of horse ownership has simplified the process a little bit and a horse owner can find a wealth of information on nutrition starting with their equine veterinarian.

Equine nutritionists generally break down a horse’s nutrition into six essential areas:

Water

Water should be your very first concern when thinking about your horse’s nutrition. Water regulates every system in a horse’s body and without water or if the water has dangerous ingredients in it, a horse can become dehydrated and experience serious and debilitating conditions. A horse will need to take enough water to match its activities level. A working horse and a horse kept for leisure will have different water intake requirement. Horses sweat much like humans do and that water must be replaced.

Protein

This nutrient is found in every food substance that grows on earth from cattle to dandelions. Even though humans generally associate protein with meat or dairy, a horse will get its protein from vegetable sources. Alfalfa, especially the second and third cut, provides excellent protein.

Protein is an important part of a horse’s diet as it aids muscle development, especially so for young horses. A great sign that a horse might not be getting enough protein is the development of a rough coat of hair.

Carbohydrates

This nutrient is the basic energy unit that you will find in most forms of horse feed. Carbohydrates are easily digestible and provide ready and quick energy. A horse left to graze all day will consume all its necessary carbohydrates, but since most horses do not have this luxury, they must be fed a grain such as corn, oats, or barley.

It is important to note that the amount of carbohydrates that a horse consumes should be regulated. A horse could develop colic if there is a sudden increase in carbohydrates such as sugar in their feed.

Fat

While most fats are not present in large quantities in a horse’s natural diet, they do have nutritional value. Additional fat can be added to your horse diet if the feed does not provide enough energy. Fat should be given only in limited quantities however to prevent disease and obesity. A horse’s body has simply not developed to handle a large amount of fat, so a horse owner must be careful when adding it to avoid colic or gastrointestinal distress in their animal.

Vitamins

Because we feed horses foods other than their natural foraged diet, their feed will lack certain essential vitamins. Most horse owners love their horses so much and would not bear to see their quality if life suffer as a result of insufficient vitamins and minerals intake.

One of the ways to find out if your horse is having the required vitamins is to examine the food it consumes. Diets high in grains are likely not vitamin heavy and horses on these diets, as well as horses under stress may need extra vitamin supplementation. You can seek advice from your veterinarian to decide the types of vitamins and supplements that are suitable for your horse.

Minerals

Minerals are necessary for the correct growth and regeneration of many parts of the body. These minerals are often present in forage, but again may be lacking in a high-grain diet. A horse lacking in minerals may not show many overt signs, but its health may slowly deteriorate.

Horses communicate with their facial expressions and you can determine their moods by observing their nostrils, eyes and ears. You can visit our site by clicking on the link to learn more about horse health and horse care.

Author: Jared Wright
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Proper regular dental care is important for all horses regardless of age size or use, just like it is in humans. The benefits provided by proper dental care include being able to maximize the FCR or Feed conversion ratio. In simple terms, this means the horse is getting the maximum benefit from the feed it is eating. This is achieved through maintaining a normal chewing cycle via the removal of pain, preventing and correcting abnormalities that lead to spilling of feed, and ensuring that the horse can grind its feed to an appropriate fiber length. This is essential if the food is to be properly absorbed in the intestine; large fibers are not properly absorbed and significant numbers of fibers in your horse’s feces with length greater then 25mm indicates a problem with that horses grinding ability.

The second benefit of proper dental care is being able to keep your horse free of dental pain. Those of us who have had an ulcer in the mouth, a cavity or broken tooth, know how painful it is.

The third benefit is in the ridden or driven horse: by removing painful or restrictive conditions in the mouth we allow the horse free motion and collection. Remember to adjust tack as a horse ages; a bit that suited a horse when it was a three-year-old is unlikely to suit it as a ten-year-old.

The fourth benefit of dentistry is welfare. One of the greatest advantages modern man has over our predecessors is access to modern dental care and, combined with dietary changes and advances in medical care, is largely responsible for our much increased life expectancy. The same applies in the horse.

Another frequently overlooked benefit of proper dental care applies to the brood mare. Dental disease is one of the major causes of EED or early embryonic death in both horses and humans. Remember not to neglect your brood mares, particularly those that have difficulty getting in foal or keeping a pregnancy beyond 45 days.

Miniature horses suffer from the same dental conditions as other horses and can enjoy the same benefits from proper care but, as well as this, miniatures have a specific group of problems that occur more frequently in this group.

Miniatures have smaller bone structure but their teeth are essentially similar in size to a larger horse, this leads to problems with overcrowding and impaction of teeth. When teeth become impacted there are treatment options but the problem needs to be diagnosed early. With a six-year-old horse having all of its adult teeth and with teeth erupting in a horse’s mouth regularly from birth until this time horses need regular checks to identify problems early and have a good chance of recovery. For horses in this age bracket a good rule of thumb is to have dental checks every 6 months – remember the window to fix these problems is very short.

Miniatures are also prone to being Prognathic, commonly called “sow” or “monkey-mouthed” which means that their dental arcades don’t line up and their bottom jaw comes out further than their top jaw. Remember that a horses jaw slides back and forth when the head is up and down, just like yours. Try it now, face forward with your teeth in their normal position, then lower your chin – you will feel your bottom jaw slide forward. This rostro-caudal or front to back movement is normal. This is relevant because when checking a horse’s bite it must be done with the horses head in a resting position, not held up in the air. Otherwise the lower jaw will slide back and the result will be incorrect.

Sow mouthed horses should not be used for breeding as there is a genetic component to this trait and remember to check both the stallion and the mare.

Due to the size of a mini’s teeth there are often overcrowding, maleruption and misalignment problems with their teeth. This will often go undetected and spaces will develop around the teeth. These spaces then pack with feed material and this feed supports an overgrowth of anaerobic bacteria. The bacteria produce toxins which attack the structures which support the teeth (the gums and periodontal ligament). The horse then suffers gingivitis (gum inflammation) which if untreated progresses to periodontal disease (disease of the structures that support the tooth) and eventually premature loss of the tooth. This is extremely painful and can cause the horse to lose weight and stop eating.

The take home message should be that all horse regardless of size or use need regular appropriate dental care.

About the Author. Dr Shannon Lee is a an equine veterinarian who concentrates on equine dentistry. He has presented several scientific papers, provides lectures and tutorials to veterinarians and veterinary students. Advises government bodies on regulation pertaining to equine dentistry, and has an active role in research in the equine dental field. http://www.advancedequinedentistry.com.au

Author: Shannon Lee
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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English riding showcases the ability of the rider to control every move of the horse through use of the reins and the rider’s legs. Riding a horse was common in civilizations throughout history, dating back thousands of years. Horses were used by many civilizations as transportation, co-workers, draft animals, friends and entertainment.

Though there are other styles of riding today, equestrians hail English riding as the most elegant inside or outside of the show ring. But it’s not only the rider’s skill that sets English riding apart. The horse riding apparel that English riders wear is not only functional but also very stylish.

What’s The History Of Riding Horses?

When man first started interacting with horses, they didn’t initially ride them, but rather used them to pull carts and chariots. No one knows which civilization first started riding horses, but through artifacts historians have established that the first equestrian equipment likely consisted of no more than a rope around the horse’s neck and a blanket or mat of some kind to protect the rider.

Actively breeding horses for domestic use did not occur until 1000 B.C. and it wasn’t until the medieval period (the 5th to 15th centuries) that horses were categorized. Instead of categorizing by breed, horses were categorized by their use. Horses used to pull carts were called carthorses and horses used in war were called chargers. These areas of specialization eventually led to a divergence in equestrian equipment and horse riding apparel.

What’s The Difference From English Saddles And Western Saddles?

English saddles are much flatter and more lightweight than their Western counterparts. The English saddle does not have a horn and the stirrups are much lighter and simpler than Western equestrian equipment. In the same way, English horse riding apparel stays with this focus on control and formality by insisting upon sleek lines, trim forms, and subdued elegance.

In English riding, the English saddle is placed over a saddle pad of minimal size. A lightweight bridle is used and, in some cases, a martingale or chest plate may be used. While significantly different in size, weight, and construction from that of a Western saddle, there are many different types of English saddle, depending upon its intended use.

English saddles used in jumping are far different from dressage saddles. Pleasure-riding or all-purpose saddles merge the benefits of several different styles of English saddle to make it more useful for the casual rider. Most English riders carry a crop when riding. English equestrian equipment is maintained in a clean and well-oiled manner, demonstrating the elegance and art of English riding.

What Horse Riding Apparel Is Appropriate For English Riding?

The goal in dressing for English riding is to demonstrate control over yourself as well as your horse. Loose hair and clothing are avoided, as are overly revealing garments and shabby work clothes. The English rider does well to take pride in their appearance wherever they are riding.

English horse riding apparel consists of a pair of paddock boots or tall boots worn with jodhpurs or riding breeches. In the show ring, women wear a short-collared ratcatcher shirt with a stock pin at the collar, while men wear a long-sleeved button-down shirt. Ratcatchers and other riding shirts have longer sleeves than street wear to allow the necessary freedom of movement required when jumping.

Many English riders are also seen wearing short, trim riding gloves. In the show ring, all English riders, except in some dressage classes, are required to wear an ASTM/SEI approved riding helmet as part of their regular horse riding apparel.

Sometime in the last 6,000 years, people have gone from riding bareback on wild caught horses to the exquisite art and formality seen in Olympic level dressage shows. English saddles facilitate the movement and grace necessary to the English rider. The equestrian equipment used today reflects that same measure of stately elegance and precise control seen when individuals ride in the English style.

Anne Coyle writes for The Equestrian Corner. They provide high quality English Saddles and horse riding apparel that define the elegance of English riding while providing safety to the rider.

Author: Anne Coyle
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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A worm-free horse is a happy horse, but the only way to ensure a worm-free horse is the application of deworming medications. This is one of those hated tasks for horse owners who know the trials of trying to pry open a horse’s mouth to squirt paste inside. It is essential though, as certain worms, aside from depleting nutrition, can pass into the bloodstream and do serious damage to a horse’s vital organs.

Horses in certain scenarios are more likely to be infested with worms and other parasites infestation. Horses that are housed in stables with a large number of horses should be dewormed more often. Very old and young horse are also much more susceptible to parasitic infestations, but care should be taken deworming them as their bodies will respond differently then horse in prime health and age.

It is important to understand how worms enter a horse’s body. The primary way to transmit the worms is through contact with the fecal. A horse that is infested with worms are likely to produce feces that are contaminated with worms.

Horses that come in contact with these feces can eventually transmit those eggs or worms into their own bodies by ingestion. This does not mean that a horse has to eat the feces, it could be some form of contact with it and eventually passing it on in the feeding area. The worms will then travel to the intestines where they will experience a feast each time your horse eats.

One of the most common ways to deworm a horse is using oral deworming medication that has to be fed to your horse. Most Veterinarians recommend horse owners to deworm their horses six times annually. Naturally, squirting something in your horse’s mouth can be something of a task. Not many horses are willing to have strange pastes or liquids quirk into their mouths. There is another type of dewormer in pellet form which you can mix it into the feed, however such medication has proven to be less effective.

Deworming Tips and Considerations

- A horse with food in its mouth is more likely to spit out the dewormer. Washing the horse’s mouth with plenty of water prior can help to reduce this reaction.

- Different types of dewormers are used against different worms. Consider rotating which drug you use.

There are no real perfect approaches to administering the dewormer. Only you know your horse best, and only you will be able to anticipate how she will react. Make an effort to move slowly, and thoroughly, but be sure that the dewormer does get swallowed.

Studies have shown that some dewormers can have a negative impact on worm control in the long run. Over deworming your horse could help the worms develop a resistance to the drug. Do some research or discuss with your vet the possibility of using newer drugs, or possibly trying natural remedies, or substances such as diatomaceous earth which will actually suck all of the moisture out of a worm, killing it.

Akhal-Teke, a horse breed who lives in Russia can survive for days without food and water. To learn more about horses, including more horse health and horse care articles, visit our site by following the links.

Author: Jared Wright
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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You are probably tired of me saying that horses are creatures of habit and that they will basically follow the same pattern every day.If your horses are in stalls at night, when you arrive in the morning, hopefully the same time each day, or as close to the same time as possible, you will notice that each horse will basically be standing facing pretty much the same direction in the stall. If they sleep at this hour, when you arrive they will probably just be getting up to greet you and have breakfast. If your horses are out at night and come in during the day, usually because of hot weather, then they will be standing at the gate waiting, or if they are grazing they will more than likely be in the same area of the pasture. Many horses seem to eat, then drink and often take a nap. This is why, when I was involved in breakingyearlings, we brought them in from being out at night, gave them a light breakfast and they were looking to take a nap; that’s when we would start schooling them (of course we did give them a short amount of time after eating to digest their food). Babies are easier to break and teach when they are tired. They are more agreeable and less likely to want to start an argument. When I was training Thoroughbreds, I knew immediately as I started to walk through the barn, that one of my horses was not well because there was a change of habit, not to mention the cloudiness in their eyes and the lethargic way in their movements. If you make it a habit to take just a few seconds of your time every day,go to every stall and say good morning to each horse, you will not only be surprised at the response you will receive, but you will be able to detect signs of illness.

When working on a farm, as I was doing stalls or schooling horses, I was constantly looking at my horses, checking and watching the horses that were turned out. Every opportunity I had was spent walking through the barn checking each horse in the stalls. Horses can become sick very quickly and need immediate attention. Probably your first fear is colic. Horses cannot regurgitate, meaning if they ingest something that is poisonous to their system (things such as moldy hay, or moldy feed or different plants out in the field), they cannot vomit and get rid of it as we can. They must eliminate anything harmful to them through their bowels. Unfortunately, one of the first things that happens to a sick horse as with colic is that he or she cannot pass any feces. This is one of the things that will cause the horse to become toxic. Impaction is also a huge problem meaning that there is a blockage in the intestines, hopefully not from their intestines becoming twisted. Helping a horse as quickly as possible can make a difference. Waiting until the horse is rolling around, getting up, going back down immediately and rolling around, thrashing around hurting him or herself is not a good thing. Being quick to respond to any illness with a horse is imperative. It may help your horse to recover much quicker and if you do have to call a vet you may be able to avoid your horse having to make a trip to the clinic. Sending your horse to a clinic is very expensive but if it is unavoidable and is highly recommended by your veterinarian, the sooner you go the better.

There are many homeopathic and herbal products on the market available to help horses in minor distress. Research these products as there are many books available that will help you to understand the way in which natural products work, how to administer them and how often. Also speak with your veterinarian on the basic products you will need to keep handy that can help your horse in a minor situations. Every time a horse backs off from his or her feed does not mean that they are very sick. They can experience stomach discomfort that will pass or they can become heavy with gas which with a little help will overcome that as well. If you have a horse that is showing you signs of discomfort often, then you may have to make changes in their feed program, consumption of particular types of hay or even limit their amount of pasture. If they are spending time where there is a lot of sand, you may have to give them something internally to help them pass this through their system. Hopefully you will never have to experience the things that I have discussed, but paying close attention to your horse, what they are eating and watching their daily habits is your best defense.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC
I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my YouTube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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English riding showcases the ability of the rider to control every move of the horse through use of the reins and the rider’s legs. Riding a horse was common in civilizations throughout history, dating back thousands of years. Horses were used by many civilizations as transportation, co-workers, draft animals, friends and entertainment.

Though there are other styles of riding today, equestrians hail English riding as the most elegant inside or outside of the show ring. But it’s not only the rider’s skill that sets English riding apart. The horse riding apparel that English riders wear is not only functional but also very stylish.

What’s The History Of Riding Horses?

When man first started interacting with horses, they didn’t initially ride them, but rather used them to pull carts and chariots. No one knows which civilization first started riding horses, but through artifacts historians have established that the first equestrian equipment likely consisted of no more than a rope around the horse’s neck and a blanket or mat of some kind to protect the rider.

Actively breeding horses for domestic use did not occur until 1000 B.C. and it wasn’t until the medieval period (the 5th to 15th centuries) that horses were categorized. Instead of categorizing by breed, horses were categorized by their use. Horses used to pull carts were called carthorses and horses used in war were called chargers. These areas of specialization eventually led to a divergence in equestrian equipment and horse riding apparel.

What’s The Difference From English Saddles And Western Saddles?

English saddles are much flatter and more lightweight than their Western counterparts. The English saddle does not have a horn and the stirrups are much lighter and simpler than Western equestrian equipment. In the same way, English horse riding apparel stays with this focus on control and formality by insisting upon sleek lines, trim forms, and subdued elegance.

In English riding, the English saddle is placed over a saddle pad of minimal size. A lightweight bridle is used and, in some cases, a martingale or chest plate may be used. While significantly different in size, weight, and construction from that of a Western saddle, there are many different types of English saddle, depending upon its intended use.

English saddles used in jumping are far different from dressage saddles. Pleasure-riding or all-purpose saddles merge the benefits of several different styles of English saddle to make it more useful for the casual rider. Most English riders carry a crop when riding. English equestrian equipment is maintained in a clean and well-oiled manner, demonstrating the elegance and art of English riding.

What Horse Riding Apparel Is Appropriate For English Riding?

The goal in dressing for English riding is to demonstrate control over yourself as well as your horse. Loose hair and clothing are avoided, as are overly revealing garments and shabby work clothes. The English rider does well to take pride in their appearance wherever they are riding.

English horse riding apparel consists of a pair of paddock boots or tall boots worn with jodhpurs or riding breeches. In the show ring, women wear a short-collared ratcatcher shirt with a stock pin at the collar, while men wear a long-sleeved button-down shirt. Ratcatchers and other riding shirts have longer sleeves than street wear to allow the necessary freedom of movement required when jumping.

Many English riders are also seen wearing short, trim riding gloves. In the show ring, all English riders, except in some dressage classes, are required to wear an ASTM/SEI approved riding helmet as part of their regular horse riding apparel.

Sometime in the last 6,000 years, people have gone from riding bareback on wild caught horses to the exquisite art and formality seen in Olympic level dressage shows. English saddles facilitate the movement and grace necessary to the English rider. The equestrian equipment used today reflects that same measure of stately elegance and precise control seen when individuals ride in the English style.

Anne Coyle writes for The Equestrian Corner. They provide high quality English Saddles and horse riding apparel that define the elegance of English riding while providing safety to the rider.

Author: Anne Coyle
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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You will be using both verbal and physical cues, when you are teaching your horse tricks. A cue is just a signal you use to let your horse know that you want them to do something. Each cue needs to be clear and distinct from other cues otherwise your horse can become confused.

A verbal cue is saying something like “back” or “touch”.

A physical cue is something the horse can see or feel. For example you may point at your horse’s hindquarters and this is the cue for him to move his hindquarters away. Or you might touch him on his shoulder and this is a cue for your horse to bow.

Humans use cues all the time. For example if I say hi and extend my hand toward you, then you know I want to shake your hand and you will (usually) extend your hand and shake mine. That is a cue. I don’t have to say “shake my hand”. You recognise the cue (me extending my hand toward you) and you know what I am asking.

Physical cues work better than verbal cues

Physical cues tend to work better than verbal cues or commands when you are teaching your horse tricks. In the horse world there are no words. Horses are used to interpreting minor changes in the body language of other horses in the herd. A cue can be very subtle once a horse learns to recognise it.

Cues need to be very distinct if you want to teach your horse lots of tricks

If you only want to teach your horse a few tricks then you might only need to use a few physical and verbal cues. However if you want to teach your horse lots of different tricks then you really need to think about which cues you are going to use. Even though horses are very good at distinguishing between subtle body movements, in the beginning if your cues are too similar it will confuse your horse.

For example when I first taught Trigger to say Yes, I would point at the front of his head. Then I decided to teach him ‘to be ashamed’, which is where he will put his head under my arm. The cues I decided to use for this were to wave my finger in front of him, while saying “Shame on you”. Trigger saw a finger in front of his face and got a bit confused and started to say Yes.

I needed to make the ‘ashamed’ cue a lot more distinct when I first started teaching it to him. I decided to put my left hand on my hip, as if I was mad with him and really waggle my finger and whole arm back and forth in front of his face. By making my cue very obvious he then understood the difference. As he became better at the trick I could make the cues more and more subtle and now I only need to put my hand on my hip and gently waggle my finger back and forth.

You can even make up your own verbal cues

Also put some thought into the verbal cues you will be using. Some words can sound very similar to a horse. For example “Walk” and “Whoa”. Saying the cue in a different tone or speed can differentiate it from another cue. Such as “WALK!” and “whhhooooaaaa”. It also isn’t necessary to use a real word as a cue. You can even make up cue words (as long as you remember the word) to keep the verbal cues distinct.

Where will you be when your horse performs the trick?

Think also about where you will be when you want your horse to perform his trick. If you want to teach your horse to bow with you in the saddle, there is no point in teaching him using a cue that requires you to be on the ground. Unless you are very flexible!

Once your horse has learnt a trick really well your cues can become very subtle, but in the beginning make them very distinct from each other. Spend a bit of time planning how you are going to teach each horse trick and also which cues you will use. This will make it easier and quicker to teach your horse each new trick and prevent them from becoming confused.

Jain Brand (and Trigger) http://www.horsetricktraining.com

Horse Tricks 101 – Easy step by step guide to help you teach your horse some simple tricks. Horse Trick Training is a fun way to build a special bond with your horse.

Once you and your horse learn the basics of trick training you can teach your horse just about anything! It’s easy, fun and only takes 10 minutes a day.

Download your FREE Horse Trick Training Pack at: http://www.horsetricktraining.com

Author: Jain Brand
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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Unlike humans that chew their food, horses grind their food; a process called mastication. Because of this grinding motion which is from side to side, horses teeth will become sharp on the outside next to their cheek, and on the inside bottom next to their tongue. As you can guess, if you do not have a horse dentist come in and float their teeth, meaning the dentist will have long handled tools called floats, go into their mouths and take off the sharp edges of both the top and bottom of their teeth, your horse will encounter problems grinding and digesting their food in the proper manner. There are a lot of misconceptions about horses’ teeth and how often they need to be floated, and at what age you should start with dentistry.

Just as in most areas concerning horses, opinions vary greatly. I can only give you the formula that has worked for me and my four legged friends. Because of having two year olds in training, and having food in front of them constantly, (which means a lot of food consumption), I started using a dentist for these two year olds in the latter months of the second year. This is because as three year olds, they have what they call caps on their back molars which are basically baby teeth that are being undermined by the growing in of their permanent teeth.

These caps can be left to fall out on their own but they usually are very bothersome to the horses, sometimes causing them to go off of their feed because it is hard for them to masticate. Signs of this will be a constant tilting of their head and moving their tongue around in an unusual manner. Caps are not the only issue. Wolf teeth can also be painful for the horse when you put the bridle on and the bit in their mouth. As the rider pulls back on the reins causing the bit to move in the horses’ mouth up against the wolf tooth, there can be not only great pain but a very disagreeable head throwing horse to follow. Wolf teeth are rogue teeth that are easily removed. It is usually necessary to have them removed as well.

Horses’ teeth grow constantly from what is called the alveolus. This means that the teeth have only a certain amount of length to them. This is why elderly horses eventually must be fed very soft mixtures of feed because they no longer have teeth that are growing; meaning their teeth are worn out and may eventually lose some of the teeth they have left. So it is very important that you have a dentist that knows what he or she is doing. You do not want their teeth taken down too much as this will affect their ability to masticate and shorten the life of their teeth for the future.

Personally, as a general rule, I like horses that are not in training and are full mouthed, (meaning having a full set of teeth grown in), usually at the age of five years, done every six months. I had racing horses checked about every three months, just for taking off the edges, checking for caps, and helping to insure proper mastication and digestion. If your horse is not grinding their food properly, the grains will not be absorbed as they should, will flow through the system losing precious nutrients, and may cause loss of weight even though they are being fed the proper amount of food for their age, size, breed and amount of work.

Some horses may go as long as a year between floatings. This is probably the usual amount of time that the majority of people allow their horses to go in between dental visits. Having your horses teeth floated is just as important as worming and blacksmith work. If you are riding your horse and he or she is constantly flipping their head, giving you a hard time when you ask the horse to turn, there probably is an issue involving their teeth.

The sharp edges created by mastication can be like razor blades cutting either into your horses tongue or onto the cheeks of their mouth. Horse dentists are not too terribly expensive and in the long run will save you from going through hardships with your horse. Floating the teeth of a horse that has severe edges and is underweight can make the difference of hundreds of pounds of flesh on their body and will help them to again be a happy horse. Happy horse…happy owner.

Beverly Jansen
http://bevshorseadvice.com
Co-Owner of BevWeb, LLC

I’m a licensed Thoroughbred Horse Trainer and a licensed Equine Message Therapist. I have devoted my entire life to horses and have over 40 years experience to share. My blog site was created to share my knowledge and will soon offer exceptional, all natural horse products that are above and beyond any other products in comparison and will guarantee fantastic results. I will also be posting “How To” videos on my YouTube channel soon.

Author: Beverly Jansen
Article Source: EzineArticles.com
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